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TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit WiFi Router (Archer A6) - 5GHz Dual Band Mu-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Supports Guest WiFi and AP mode, Long Range Coverage?
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126 reviews of this product found across Reddit:
I wouldn’t buy that. You’re paying a lot for plastic that makes it look fast. If you look at enterprise APs, who need performance over hundreds of devices, you’ll notice that they don’t look like Lamborghinis. That’s marketing. I wouldn’t expect much performance boost if any from the google WiFi. It’s costco so go try it. But don’t be fooled by the high marketing numbers.
If your neighbors use a lot of WiFi or your walls absorb 5ghz, no WiFi device will fix that.
The best you can do is put wired APs around your House so your phone is always near an AP.
Look into MoCA 2.0 or 2.5. Or flat Ethernet cables that you can run under the carpet.
Again, don’t focus on WiFi 6. It’s not a game changer, I doubt you’ll see a difference. WiFi 6 really works well in malls and airports.
Here’s a router that will perform just as well as the one you linked. I would buy several of these and wire them up around your house. I’ve rented, I just found good ways of hiding cables.
> if I can buy another router with 5 GHz WiFi, connect my RJ45 to it then connect another RJ45 to my pc and use the 5GHz bandwidth for myself?
Yes, this is exactly how I have mine set up. You need to configure your router to "access point" mode and it will just act like another wired and wireless network switch. Just connect your Quest to that Router's 5ghz SSID. If you're in the US, this router is fantastic for $40 https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
Keep in mind, the current V30 firmware has caused wifi instability with the Quest's wifi making it drop out or fluctuate in speed randomly. Supposedly the new V31 firmware has fixed it and is rolling out now.
I agree with the other poster but for different reasons. Eero has an SQM QoS which is the best on the market and I suggest anyone with low upload bandwidth use it. Comcast always gives low upload bandwidth.
Don’t use the mesh function of the eero unless you must. It’s is far far far better to get MoCA adapters (version 2.0 or greater). Use those to create a hardline between floors for your AP.
For an AP you can get this: TP-Link AC1200 Router/AP
This you’ll only need to buy 1 eero, 2 TP links, and 3 MoCA Adapters. But there’s nothing wrong with getting 3 eeros and 3 MoCA adapters.
You’ll notice no performance difference.
>or just avoid TP-Link altogether
TP Link AC1200 (Archer A6) $39.99 is recommended by the virtual desktop developer, and many others. You disagree?
Huge difference. You need to make sure you're on a 5ghz band that is ideally not in use for anything else. Make sure the pc is plugged into the router (or the router is plugged into your main router, or whatever setup as long as everything's wired into the same network) and the dedicated router is in the same room within eyesight of the Quest. Lots of us just use a dedicated router for it. The cheapest one that is officially suggested by VD is the TP-Link A6 at only $40 or so.
What you bought is fine. You can mix WiFi 5 and WiFi 6. There’s nearly no advantage to WiFi 6 and I wouldn’t pay $10 more for it.
If you’re planning on hard wiring everything there’s no need to spend extra money on mesh. Just buy APs and set them with the same WiFi name and password.
This is my budget pick for an AP: TP-Link AC1200 Router/AP
Is it a new computer? if so, it may not be wifi capable, and you'll have to buy this or connect to the ethernet.
I heartily recommend this one - I saw a thread on here or on the quest sub, which I have never been able to find again, that recommended it as a dedicated second router just for the quest. It works beautifully. I use my standard connection for internet, and this JUST for the Quest.
OpenComposite replaces SteamVR essentially. If you launch the game through the mod manager and have OpenComposite set up, it should just end up using OpenComposite.
My house layout has a similar problem as you actually (my main router is on a different floor from the computer). To fix that I bought a separate router (the Virtual Desktop developer recommended https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1 which doesn't break the bank) and put it in the same room as my PC so I could wire it. The drawback is that the game can't connect to the internet, but SkyrimVR doesn't need to do that anyway.
if you don't use your own router plugged into the trashcan you will most likely have issues with random websites not loading, basic apps like gmail and text issues on apple and android etc..
plugging in your own router fixes these issues 99% of the time.
I went with this one. Works flawlessly.
This will work fine. If you have a dead spot, buy an Ethernet cable and run it to the dead spot (through attic or basement, or MoCA adapters) and place another one of these.
WiFi routers don’t need to be expensive. Expensive ones are often expensive just because they can make people think they are getting more.
Two $50 APs will outperform a $400 gaming router.
Yep! They offered a modem that had built in wifi and another that didn't.
The latter had better reviews and didn't use the problem chipset, but it meant that I had to get my own router.
Honestly, getting your own router is smart anyways. It gives you more control and you can choose to invest in a really good one if you want. You can scale it to suit your needs whereas if you use the built in one, you are stuck with what might be a piece of garbage. That's my issue with my Bell Fiber 300 right now.
I went fairly cheap on the router for now, but if it's no good I can get a better one. This is the one I went with
WiFi is limited in power by law to 1watt. So a $499 gaming router and $30 POS has a limit of 1watt. WiFi is also two way in that your phone is 1watt. So if you had a 10,000 watt radio tower WiFi, it’d be useless as your phone couldn’t request the webpage in the first place.
Here’s a low cost AP that’ll work just fine. But really any router will.
Best bang for the buck. Buy these and wire them up as APs. Place them wherever there’s a dead spot. Buy as many as needed.
WiFi is a conversation between the AP and your phone. You want them to talk to each other at a normal volume. Of the AP is too far away your phone has to scream and the AP will have trouble hearing through lots of walls.
Then get an eero or an edgerouterX (if you’re techie enough) and turn on SWM QoS. This will help all your devices share the small upload. No more downloads stopped Netflix from streaming. Or torrenting killed your gaming ping. I also recommend SQM QoS to anyone with cable internet. It’s a lifesaver.
I've deployed several of these with great success.
No affiliation with the product or seller other than being a customer.
TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit WiFi Router (Archer A6) - 5GHz Dual Band Mu-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Supports Guest WiFi and AP mode, Long Range Coverage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_BGZ131R2GDWBJCBWHRR8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Other posters are correct. You can use your own router.
I recently tried a few of the best-selling routers on Amazon.
This was the best one for the range and performance. I was able to walk 70 feet from the house and still get signal and speeds. LOL
amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
Get the Archer A6 v2. The one that says "gigabit" and not the one that's says "new version". This router has been highly recommended in the virtual desktop discord and bought three of them to be able to play anywhere in the house. Very pleased with their performance for the money.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/
If you're talking about the Residential Gateway that you rent from your ISP. You can just buy a router and connect it to that in Bridge Mode. That's what I did. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
and put OpenWRT on it.
No worries. I did not end up continuing on the motherboard Wi-Fi path. Far too many stumbling blocks and possible endless times sink of troubleshooting.
I went on Amazon and bought the router that everybody buys for this.
It is not Wi-Fi 6 but Wi-Fi 5 AC 5 GHz. There is no difference in the throughput or bandwidth versus Wi-Fi 6AX 5 GHz. Especially since it will be a dedicated router just for my quest 2
I've used this a whole bunch already. Flawless
Quest 2 is just hands down the best bang for the buck right now. No other headset can do wireless PC VR without spending at least $1200 (that isnt an ancient OG Vive).
You can buy a 5ghz Dual band Wireless AC router for $40 that works great with the Quest 2. Get a comfortable head strap or a battery pack to act as a counterweight while increasing play time and thats all you'll need.
A same room $4o will do. Limited-time deal: TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit WiFi Router (Archer A6) - 5GHz Dual Band Mu-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Supports Guest WiFi and AP mode, Long Range Coverage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6ATGMABGN6T7A72XBWTC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Is this the same router?
All the stats match but it looks different than the one OP posted.
I was going to bite the bullet on a wifi-6 but people say it's a waste of money and a 5ghz 802.11ac router is fine for getting excellent VD results. The main things are to get it off of clogged channels and dedicate the 5ghz band to the quest 2. This is the one I used for it.
The router you posted is pretty good for home networking although depending on the speed from your IPS, you could definitely get a router with MU-MIMO way cheaper like this one. If there are any specific other features you need beyond 5GHz and MU-MIMO, you'll have to look into it.
I can't find the exact answer to the issue you're having but it's possible that your Verizon router does not have any non-volatile storage and only saves settings in RAM. I'm not sure why it would be resetting if the power isn't going out though. If you think consistent power is the issue, an APC battery backup would work to keep power to the device. If it does have non-volatile storage, then it may be defective.
As for the set up, MU-MIMO is just a WiFi technology that allows the router/access point to communicate with multiple devices at once. If the main router doesn't support it but the router you're using as an access point attached to it does, it will work fine for any device connected to the access point (as long as it's enabled on the access point router of course).
Do you have the main router configured with WiFi as well or just the router you're using as an access point? Also, is the access point one configured as an access point (getting IPs from the main router) or is it set up as its own network with its own DHCP server handing out addresses? The former would be best if you don't have any reason to have multiple networks.
Routers are cheap. If your only going to use it for the Quest a $50 router is plenty. I've been using this one TP-Link Archer 6. Its an ac1200 gigabit router and it works great.
I misread ahah thank you.
I'm not sure what you mean by Power point networking but a CPL is a small box that you plug into a wall outlet that has an ethernet port. It uses the eletrical wires to "spread" the network (don't ask me how it works ahah). You must also have another one connected to your main router.
It is very useful when you need better speed than what wifi can offer while being far from your router.
If I buy something like this : amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1 It will act as the wifi access point and the switch at the same time no ?
You will have problems until you are connected directly to the router your Quest is using. Also not using a 5Ghz connection isn't helping.
I've been using this router TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit WiFi Router
I don’t know much about routers but I am in your exact situation (300 down 15 up, 3 peopke using nextflix and browsing) and I live in a 2 story house so the signal needs to travel pretty far, I’ve had this for half a year and it’s worked well: TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit WiFi Router (Archer A6) - 5GHz Gigabit Dual Band MU-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Supports Beamforming, Guest WiFi and AP mode, Long Range Coverage by 4 Antennas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_dlC_ZZZZFb5X7VAR5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Lastly, if it is possible at all, USE ETHERNET! I cannot tell you what a game changer it is. I drilled a hole in the top floor of my house and routed the coax cable through the hole to my modem on my desk, and it has honestly been worth it. Hope this helps!
I’m having a similar issue with streaming to my Amazon 4k stick via plex. I’m thinking about upgrading to this router. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=archer+ac1200&qid=1607328839&sprefix=archer+ac&sr=8-3
The router is cheap and has speed of around 830 mbps over 5ghz. I plan on connecting the firestick and my Xbox one x on the 5ghz band.
Tplink AC1200 Archer C6 works for me very well. It has built in OpenVPN. I researched a bit and this seems to be best inexpensive option if you need wifi router with OpenVPN. Just replace existing one with this one and it should work out if the box. Easy to setup and use.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
You should ditch the extender and just get a WiFi AP. Have the same SSID and password.
TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit WiFi Router (Archer A6) - 5GHz Gigabit Dual Band MU-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Supports Beamforming, Guest WiFi and AP mode, Long Range Coverage by 4 Antennas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/
I bought the TPLink Archer A6 a year ago. It works really well with Cincinnati Bell's TV and internet services. The wifi signal is much better than the standard fioptics modem, IMO.
You need a router with IPTV/VLAN ability to be set in bridge mode.
I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask, but I've gotten helpful answers here before.
I'm looking to buy a modem and router for the first time, and need help figuring out how to get the best products I can without spending a leg and an arm.
The Xfinity wifi plan I'm getting is for 60mbps, and I'm not really a fan of paying an extra $13/mo for their router/modem. I was hoping to buy either a combo modem/router or two separate devices, and hopefully spend less than $80, but am fine with paying up to/around $100. I'm mostly gonna use it to watch youtube and whatnot, but also play a fair bit of video games and dont want to deal with high ping.
I've looked on amazon a bit but there's so many different devices its kinda overwhelming. This router here is one that doesn't seem terrible in price or performance, but I'd also need a modem that works with Xfinity to go with it.
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Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!
So today I placed my order for both the 200/200 Fios internet and this router. I'll worry about the types of cables I have after I see the internet working properly. Is the router at least a decent pick for this plan? Thanks.
TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit Smart WiFi Router - 5GHz Gigabit Dual Band MU-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Supports Beamforming, Guest WiFi and AP mode, Long Range Coverage by 4 Antennas(Archer A6), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xN-EFbK805JES this one is good for around $50
I've been using this cheap $50 AC1200 TP-Link gigabit router. I haven't been able to find a Wi-Fi card that is guaranteed to work. Routers are almost plug and play compared to them, lol.
TP-Link AC1200 Router/AP here’s a $50 one. I think the AC1750 vs AC1200 isn’t worth the effort. The amount of large file transfers that need that extra bandwidth + the low probability of having the wide of a clean spectrum really limit its usability.
These are so cheap you can buy extra to put around your house to fill those dead zones.
The best option is to get two APs and connect them with MoCA adapters. WiFi doesn’t go through Concrete very well. Any plan that uses WiFi to go between level will get poor results.
Here’s some low cost APs.
okay that makes a lot of sense. i didn’t realize i could directly plug my ps4 into the new AP. that’s a very ideal situation for me.
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Archer-A6-AC1200-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
would two of these do the trick or is the 1900 worth getting. and if i’m not mistaken i’d just get a really big ethernet cable and link these together right?
what exactly is mesh referring to? i think if i understood that term that last paragraph would make a lot more sense to me.
and once again i appreciate the help.
Buy this and turn it into an AP. For option 2
Don’t do option 1, you’ll be unhappy.
Or buy an eero, two of them, and a cable modem, and replace your xfinity stuff. You’re paying $15/month, it’ll post for itself in 6 months. The eero also has SQM QoS. Which will really help with the low upload speeds that Comcast gives you.
Yeah you most likely do have one of those routers. This one seems pretty good for the price. Also, when you buy your own router it knocks $5 off of the monthly bill because you don't need to rent it from spectrum anymore. If you can't convince your parents to do that then you can get an ethernet cable that reaches from the router to your computer and that should help a lot with the disconnects.
Since you have fiber you’ll have no need for QoS. It’ll just slow you down.
Buy these and place around your house. Connect them using Ethernet or MoCA adapters (v2.0 or greater). Ethernet is better and cheaper but you won’t notice any performance difference using MoCA.
Yes. You don’t need SQM QoS if you have 300/300 service.
Basically any modern router will work fine.
Here’s one for $50. It’ll do 300/300 just fine. You won’t see any real improvement going with a $300 router vs this one.
Not sure what you are paying for speed wise, but you can get something along the lines of this:
Edit: brand wise I’ve always used net gear and never had a problem. Tp-link is fine and those reviews don’t look terrible. Just make sure you’re getting what you need for your speed.
Good catch, I didn't realize the A7 didn't have mu-mimo! Comparing the two, the C6/A6 looks like it'll offer a little better speed unless your client device is a 3x3 client, which is uncommon. Some reviews mention the A7 having better range, but if your place isn't overly large, the A6 might actually be a better fit.
Not sure if you're in the US or not, but if so, Amazon has the A6 for $49. That's a steal! And it's actually running a newer Qualcomm chipset.
TP-Link Archer A6 is a cheaper option, https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Archer-A6-AC1200-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
It's probably fast enough to keep up with your devices unless you have something with 3x3 MIMO like MacBook Pro.
A step up would be TP-Link Archer C9 which buys you a heatsink on the CPU and a strange design.
The box with the ethernet port on it is your cable modem. You'll need to get a wifi router so you can have both wired and wireless internet access (most have 4 ethernet ports on the back so it should replace your ethernet switch). Something like this. There are tons of wireless routers at various price points. The wireless router should be connected directly to the cable modem as it provides a layer of security between the devices you connect in your apartment to the internet at large.
I’m about to make you an expert:
If your internet is cable (I.e 10Mbps upload but 100’s download) you should get either an eero or edgerouterX. If your internet is 300+ Mbps Down you should either get an eero or edgerouter4
The reason for this is the SQM QoS. If your not a techie get the eero. SQM QoS is like an F1 car compared to a model T of normal QoS.
For extra APs, you don’t need to spend much. This will do just fine:
Mesh is for grandmas. Treat mesh as a last resort. I recommend the eero only because it has SQM QoS and not because it’s mesh. It is the only consumer router that has it (the edgerouter or USG’s being prosumer)
There is very little difference in the range of all routers. Treat every sqft stat as a lie. It’s just a way to get the consumer to buy the $300 AP instead of the $50 AP even if they actually cover the same area.
A truism: Every router and phone is limited by law to be the same power. $50 and $300. Two $50 APs will vastly outperform one $300. While one $300 will only be slightly better than a $50 if any.
But even if there was some Lamborghini bodied gaming router (aka routers for dumb people with mosey) that was powerful (there isn’t) to send a signal great distances your phone isn’t powerful enough to send the request for the pornhub video in the first place. WiFi is a two way street. You can get around this with directional antennas to get some more range. But consumer routers don’t have it. It’s better to just get multiple wired APs. The goal should be that your phone and AP can have a conversation at a “normal volume” instead of trying to scream through multiple walls. That’s what makes a good WiFi system.
You don’t need a cloud key. You can run the software on your computer for setup, then just run it anytime you need to change something.
The roaming of ubiquiti is because of 802.11k,r, and v. These are standards and are not ubiquiti specific. That being said I’ve found that (if I was to make up a statistic) only increase roaming around the house by 2%. It’s not worth spending extra money on. But if you have it then use it. The biggest reason to go with ubiquiti is if you want the ecosystem of monitoring. If you just want to use the web: an eero router and TPLink APs will do just fine at a low cost. You won’t see a performance difference. Look for APs with MU-Mimo and beam forming. Those are the biggest features you should look for (the $50 TP link has them)
P.s. if your internet is symmetrical gigabit, then any modern router will work. You don’t need QoS
WiFi is limited in power by law to 1watt. So a $499 gaming router and $30 POS has a limit of 1watt. WiFi is also two way in that your phone is 1watt. So if you had a 10,000 watt radio tower WiFi, it’d be useless as your phone couldn’t request the webpage in the first place.
https://eyenetworks.no/wp-content/uploads/wi-fi-signal-loss-by-building-material-1024x576-1.png
What you want are APs. You want them wherever there are dead spots. And you need to wire them up with Ethernet or MoCA adapters
I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1L5HX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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It has been phenomenal since purchase. Just make sure you run it in AP mode and you should be good to go. Hardwire it to your PC and in the same room as well to get the most out of it.
Routers do fail. It’s old, get a new one.
https://store.ui.com/products/gbe
This will max out your Ethernet cables.
Then put an AP in the guest house.
Here’s is a low cost one: TP-Link AC1200 Router/AP
Get rid of all those pods. They are killing your WiFi. Replace them with Ethernet or MoCA connected APs.
Buy two of these and buy this:
Put one outside your grandmas house and the other outside your RV. Put the router in your RV. Put it on AP mode if you want to “extend” their network or router mode if you want to have your own private network.
Good for 75Mbps in my experience.
If you need 600Mbps:
Ubiquiti LBE-5AC-GEN2-US LiteBeam
If you need 1Gbps:
This is an AC router but works absolutely great for $40 https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/
I bought three and added them all around my gigabit house network to play PCVR anywhere
TPLINK CPE210. Put it in client router mode. Then buy a cheap AP and wire them together.
Your iPhone or laptop will connect to the AP at 5ghz. It will then go to the CPE210 and talk to the “free internet” on the 2.4Ghz band with the high gain directional antenna.
Extra points if you can put the CPE210 outside.
This is basically the best setup you could have, spending any more money wouldn’t gain you much.
Total cost: $70?
>OnHub 5ghz
Basically ac 1200 and 5ghz is what is required. Here is my router which works perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=5ghz+routers&qid=1602967057&sr=8-4
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You don't have to go all out crazy on a high end router fortunately. But you will probably need to spend $50 to ensure a good experience. You might be able to dip down to $35-50 price range but quality might vary that low.
If you don't have a ton of things connecting to your 5G router it should be ok.
VD will tell you your connection speed.
I would try the way you have it first before buying anything. You need to be close to the router to play.
You could buy another router just for the Quest like this one https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=psdc_300189_t3_B01LXL1AR8I haven't tried this one but i have one like it.
Edit There is a setting in your router you may need to change called Channel width.
It should be set to 40. When this isn't set to 40 the Quest stutters like every 5 minutes.
Not really.
Here’s a low cost one that will work just fine. You can spend more... but you won’t get any more performance
No WiFi based product will solve your problem. The issue isn’t the RBK50. It’s your house. Any other WiFi device you put in there will have similar results.
https://eyenetworks.no/wp-content/uploads/wi-fi-signal-loss-by-building-material-1024x576-1.png
What you need to do is put in Ethernet or MoCA. Then putting an AP in every room... in every room.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/
Here’s a cheap AP that will work so you don’t have to buy more orbi satellites.
I don’t have recommendations for those other features. Just your overall issue.
Both are pointless.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/
Buy these and some cat6. Wire them around your house so there’s no dead zones.
You now have one of the best WiFi networks.
5300, the wire only does 1000...marketing is trash.
It's not the same. You can also just buy your own router, you don't need to rent. Something as cheap as this will work fine
Buy these and use MoCA Adapter to wire between floors.
MoCA 2.5 with 2 Gigabit Ethernet Ports - Ethernet Over Coaxial Adapter (Model: TL-MC84) (Set of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z3SB1HH/
Ubiquiti is very prosumer and won’t give you much more performance for the $200 APs over the $50 I posted.
But more importantly get the MoCA. Wired connections between floors are essential!
Buy two of these and buy this:
Put one outside your house and the other outside your outbuilding. Put the router in your Outbuilding. Put it on AP mode if you want to “extend” their network or router mode if you want to have your own private network.
Good for 75Mbps in my experience.
If you need 600Mbps:
Ubiquiti LBE-5AC-GEN2-US LiteBeam
If you need 1Gbps:
That one you linked is trash.
Use a dedicated router, not a usb stick, not a wi-fi hotspot. This TP-Link C6 (35$) is the cheap option we recommend. Being in the same room is essential with 5 GHz Wi-Fi; it doesn’t like to go through walls. Check our Discord for additional tips.
> Ac isnt that much cheaper
AC is half the cost; you can grab a new TPLink Archer for $40 ($30 if you opt for Used on Amazon). This is the model recommended by Ggodin. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
But hey, when Quest3 releases in a few years, you'll be doing this all over again anyways since you and me both won't have 6Ghz spectrum support. The difference is my ASUS WIFI5 AC-RT68P only cost me $20 (and allows me to do 200 mbps AirLink just dandy).
If these routers are for a home network upgrade then that's one thing, but if you're buying AX routers to use as dedicated AirLink/VD routers then your spending a lot for a marginal upgrade (VD/AirLink are still capped to use 200 mbps or less)
https://www.amazon.com/-/en/gp/product/B07N1L5HX1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 I belive that one has all of that can you confirm?
https://www.amazon.com/-/en/gp/product/B07N1L5HX1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Is that one good enough?
Does anyone know if this is better than a $40 amazon one? TP-Link AC1200 https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=gigabit+router&qid=1631046993&sr=8-6
Not wifi6 but still widely recommended by virtual desktop users; TP Link Archer A6 V2 https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ ( the one that says gigabit, not the "new version" that looks like a black box)
Thanks for the info, unfortunately it seems like I only have a 10/100 LAN port router with only up to 867MbPs at 5Ghz connection...
I'll probably end up buying a gigabit router from Amazon.
Does this look good? (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr\_1\_4?dchild=1&keywords=Best+Gigabit+Router&qid=1627345589&sr=8-4)
The old router: https://www.wavlink.com/en\_us/product/WL-WN530H4.html
> No one talks the pc requirement increase for the q2 or the need of a good 5g router to have the so wireless function works well, or the specific cable needed to make wired pcvr work... they just ignore those costs and talk how cheap it is.
Not to nitpick here but uh... Have you seen how much the HTC wireless adapter costs? For the price of the adapter alone, you can buy a Quest 2 + a 5ghz Dual band Wireless AC router for $40 and have a complete wireless PCVR experience. Or maybe you want a wired solution for PCVR, here is a 16ft USB A to C cable for $21 (nothing specific about it, its literally a standard USB cable). So yes, it IS cheap and there is nothing even close to comparable that is also wireless without spending 3x as much.
This will do the job just fine and is low cost.
Turn on hardware offloading and it'll do 1Gbps of routing and will do wifi just fine.
Just an update. I ordered my own router.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1L5HX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
All problems are now fixed. Thanks guys. You all helped me far more than hours on the phone with T-Mobile tech support...
very happy with the service after 10 days. aside from the issues posted here my speeds have been consistent no matter what time of day. lowest I've seen is 100mbps average is around 230mbps.
well i just ordered this. will let you guys know if it resolves all my issues.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1?psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
I wish T-Mobile had told me about this sooner. I got more help here on this reddit sub in 30 minutes than I did talking to multiple reps from T-Mobile for hours. How hard is it for them to simply suggest trying my own router....
This was linked on vd discord, works good
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1L5HX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes I have done this. After taking my ISP's combined modem/router "gateway" and getting it into bridge mode, I connected it to this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1L5HX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and have been super happy with the result.
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Everything that connects to your Wifi slows it down a bit. VD and ALVR will lag until you get them their own 5Ghz to use. You will need to get a second router, I've been using this one https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Archer+A6&qid=1608997025&sr=8-2
I use this router without any problems, TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit WiFi Router
You need at least an 802.11 AC router. VD works best with a connection speed of at least 866 Mbps. I've been using this router without problems. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=ac+tp+link&qid=1607452787&sr=8-18
Deal link: Amazon
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I'm literally just searching on "wifi router gigabit ethernet." https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_dlT_MVXPFbVY49NYP
Not anymore than other routers =P
I see that Amazon has it on sale, https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
I use a Ubiquiti mesh network at both my home and at a weekend house. It uses the same SSID for both 2.4 ghz and 5 ghz. I also use the same SSID at both locations so I don't need to configure devices for the weekend place.
I was having reliability issues with my Wyze. At the same time I learned that using a separate network for IOT devices was a best practice with respect to security.
So all I did was turn the wireless on my router back on (I had turned it off when I set up the Ubiquiti mesh) and created a network specifically for my cameras.
If your system has a built in router, then buy a cheapie router for $35, set it up as a WiFi bridge and plug it into an ethernet port on your existing system.
At my vacation home, I had to buy a new router. I got this one for $35 from Amazon Warehouse. It works great and has also generally increased the speed of my home network. The cams are connected to a "guest" network that does not broadcast its SSID.
Bottom line for me was that it wasn't worth all the hassle of making the cams work on a meshed network.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1L5HX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> Archer C-50 TP Link
You mean this one?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=psdc_300189_t1_B071RSD473
You bet!
The TP-Link Archer A6/C6 seems to get great reviews. If you're in the US, the A6 is $49.99 at Amazon.
I recently bought an Asus RT-AC86U because it supports some extra channels (called the DFS channels) that I needed because my neighborhood is congested. That one's currently $187.08 at Amazon, but is honestly probably overkill for your situation.
That TP-Link above would make a great upgrade from the Airport Express, I think. Not as pretty to look at, but much more functional.
Afaik, the specs need to be something like 5ghz and minimum Ac 800. And it should be wired directly to your PC within range of the quest.
So technically, and I say technically because I haven't bought and tested either yet (but I am probably going to soon) this very budget router would work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_YrEGFbD2M5BPV
And this mega budget router should technically work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RKYQGG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_gsEGFb34B0CSC
If anyone disagrees please let me know, but I think this should be true right? I see so many people recommending routers $50 and up but I think even the mega cheap router should do the trick spec wise
Just a heads up, an access point is not a router you must use an actual router.
I would get this Wifi5 AC 1200 router TP-Link AC1200 $50ish or this WiFi6 AX 1500 router TP-Link AX1500 $80ish. You don't even have to replace your current router just add one of these to your network. Put the new router in AP mode.
The more expensive routers aren't necessary when used as a dedicated quest router. Only buy the expensive routers when you need your whole household to have speedy connections. VD works best on its own dedicated router, it doesn't like to share bandwidth.
I would get this Wifi5 AC 1200 router TP-Link AC1200 $50ish or this WiFi6 AX 1500 router TP-Link AX1500 $80ish
Yes, look for at least an AC1200 router. Make sure it has gigabit ports. For a bit more $cash go for a WiFi 6 router.
I use this AC1200 router I have it setup in access point mode.
Here's the WiFi 6 router I've been looking at AX1500.
I bought a router just for my Quest to use. Using this AC1200 router. I have it connected to my main router and my gaming PC. The new AC1200 router is running in access point (AP) mode. I disabled the 2.4 Ghz channel.
This AX1500 would probably be even better. Its using the new WiFi 6, same as the Quest 2.
Yeah. Just run the Ethernet cable to the room and attach this: TP-Link AC1200 Router/AP
Set it to AP mode. You now have a switch and AP all in one. $50
TP-Link AC1200 Router/AP buy this. It’ll do gigabit just fine. If it isn’t providing the coverage: buy another, place in dead zone and connect them with an Ethernet cable.
Buy this and try it out for a few days. See if it drops too. If it does, return it.
Don’t get mesh. If you want to do it correctly get use Ethernet or MoCA adapters. Then just get any AP. TP-Link AC1200 Router/AP is a budget one that has all the modern features at a low cost for an AP.
Gimmicks rarely produce good results.
Here is one of the cheapest AC1200 routers you can get: TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit $44.99
Here's another: ASUS RT-ACRH12 AC1200 $49
​
Watch out for AC1200 routers without gigabit LAN ports!
Look for an AC1200 router with gigabit ports.
This one is only $45 right now:https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=psdc_300189_t3_B01LXL1AR8
This one is $60:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0845P5H7T/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=AC1200+Gigabit&qid=1599330861&s=electronics&sr=1-13
These will max out the capabilities of the Quest. The more expensive routers won't make your experience better.
Is this for a pet project/hobby or for everyday use?
If for everyday use, buy something basic like this instead. It’ll be well worth it: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
This will work fine. If you have dead spots buy another and connect them with Ethernet or MoCA adapters
Buy these. Place around house as needed.
Then use Ethernet or MoCA adapters to connect them together.
This will work. Can’t do it with what you have.
Still got it in my clipboard. $50, has all the modern features.
Still $50. Yes use outdoor cable or replace it every 3 years.
This will work just fine for you.
If you’re spending more than this you’re overpaying for something you don’t need. Price ≠ satisfaction in the consumer router market.
Here’s an AP that will work great and is low priced.
Make the SSIDs and passwords all the same. Your phone or laptop will pick the best WiFi to connect to.
I found this Xfinity Articles
If you decide to get a router just for your Quest, look for at least an AC1200 with gigabit ports like this one TP Link
Here’s an AP that you can use to replace it. This will get you as good of speed as any other AP for a decent cost.
I reread this whole post/comments. So you’ll need SQM just on the main router connected to the modem. You can do that with an eero or an edgerouterX (~$70, but not easy to use). Then for everything else you just need APs that are wired (Ethernet or MoCA). Use the gigabeams to bring it to your office and then an AP there too.
For APs you can use those eero pods if you’d want of just some random APs: TP-Link AC1200 Router/AP or https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1184038-REG/ubiquiti_networks_uap_ac_lite_unifi_ap_ac.html
Don't get this. It has 10/100Mbps ports so it will impose quite bad limitation on your throughput.
I don't know what's available in your country, but look for router with gigabit ports, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=gigabit+router&qid=1595836358&sr=8-16
TP-Link AC1200
Just use any AP.
Here’s one. TP-Link AC1200 Router/AP
I'd get a router which has an access point mode, like a TP-Link Archer A6, https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
An Ethernet cable should reach 328ft and you can connect your PCs to it by cable or Wifi.
I agree with starlink.
The 30ft poor signal is interesting.
Replace the airport with this.
You can also look into speedify if you’d want to combine to two ISPs into one.
Buy this and replace that antenna on your boat. Put it in client mode.
Then put this inside your boat, connecting the CPE210 to the WAN port.
This will solve your problems.
P.s. if your marina’s 5ghz is better get this instead: TP-Link CPE510 https://amzn.com/B00N2RO63U/
There’s no security issue with using his internet.
Ubiquiti LBE-5AC-GEN2-US LiteBeam
Buy two of these to link back to your in-law.
Then buy this and plug in the WAN port. This will separate both your mail and your landlords networks.
I’ve done concrete houses before. Mesh isn’t what you want. It’s like buying a truck while living in NYC. Waste of money and will make your life worse. What you need is a scooter. Inexpensive, light, maneuverability, easy to park. I’ve killed the analogy. But: What you need to do is put APs everywhere. 1 in every room. WiFi does not penetrate concrete.
https://eyenetworks.no/wp-content/uploads/wi-fi-signal-loss-by-building-material-1024x576-1.png
Since you have a budget of $400 buy these:
Buy as many of them as you need. You don’t need an expensive WiFi AP, just put something in every room.
You can even put this is lesser used rooms (in AP mode)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1WW638/
But everything NEEDS to be wired to the router. No mesh, no repeaters, no extenders.
What a weird analogy.
Your 'structure fire' solution does one thing only, and I agree it's probably easier to set up.
But using his old router as an AP, he's already there. It's just bad luck he has 10/100Mbps ports.
I don't normally do product recommendations, but from the same amazon, you can find this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=gigabit+router&qid=1595772383&sr=8-11
It's cheaper and it provides 3 or 4 additional gigabit ports, in case he wants to connect ethernet devices in future. There's nothing unnatural or forced about converting a router to be an access point. And this router does have AP mode, for what it's worth.
So the garden hose solution can actually provide additional gigabit speed, at a lower price, for not much more configuration difficulty than what he's doing already.
What is your budget?
If you are really tight, I would suggest the A*7*:
TP-Link Archer A7
For smaller spaces or fewer devices
The TP-Link Archer A7 is great for smaller spaces. It’s an excellent performer, it typically costs less than half as much as our top pick, and firmware updates have improved it significantly.
$65 on amazon.
>Also, shall I go with A6/C6 for MU-MIMO
Mu Mimo doesn't add much TBH:
https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/33100-why-you-don-t-need-mu-mimo
MU-MIMO In A Nutshell
MU-MIMO uses a special form of beamforming that is part of the 802.11ac standard.
It works in 5 GHz only.
MU-MIMO theoretically enables up to four devices to share the same Wi-Fi airtime.
Many 4x4 based designs support only up to three simultaneous devices, 3x3 designs support up to two, 2x2 designs can't support any.
You need both MU-MIMO enabled routers and devices to benefit from MU-MIMO
You need at least two MU-MIMO devices to get any benefit from MU-MIMO
MU-MIMO works only for downlink data (moving from router to device). It provides no benefit for uplink
MU-MIMO works best with strong to medium strength signals
MU-MIMO does not increase range
Again, Archer A7 seems to be the low budget sweet spot.
The A6/ac1200 is only 15 dollars cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
But, it's still the #3 best selling router on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/bestsellers/pc/300189/ref=pd_zg_hrsr_pc
It did besides our front porch (which isn’t the end of the world).
Would https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1 Be equivalent? Amazon says it’s the newer version, and it’s $10 cheaper.
This one looks good, with WiFi AC for your laptop (assuming it has 5G WiFi), and MU-MIMO tech, which allows the router to communicate to 2 devices at once. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1
Got a few DM's asking me to post my wifi speed test to "prove" it. lol. Why would I make something so silly up?...
This speed test was done on my laptop. I have Netflix playing a 4k series on a tv in the background. Not sure how much that effects the speed test if at all.
https://i.ibb.co/M6HTTjq/image-2021-05-09-080151.png
​
Also got a DM asking about the router I got. This is the one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1L5HX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
WiFi is limited in power by law to 1watt. So a $499 gaming router and $30 POS has a limit of 1watt. WiFi is also two way in that your phone is 1watt. So if you had a 10,000 watt radio tower WiFi, it’d be useless as your phone couldn’t request the webpage in the first place.
If you need range use Ethernet to another AP. Two $30 POS’s will outperform a single $499 gaming router.
This so do everything you need a WiFi router to do:
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