I would personally forgo asking to rent anything from your ISP (Internet Service Provider AKA AT&T or Comcast).
It would be like $10/mo, when you could just buy a router yourself.
Picking from the highest rated on Amazon, this TP-Link one for $30 isn't a bad deal: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/
You would just run an Ethernet cable from your current box into the BLUE port on the back of this new device, then plug your computer into one of the YELLOW ports.
You will want to set up a password for the wifi to prevent people from stealing it, would recommend you ask someone you trust to help, and pick a good password with special characters in it like &$%( etc.
As noted by others: A router is a layer 3 device. Its probably simpler to do a router than a layer3 switch if you need to have different networks.
Also noted: For the last 15 years, if you buy a consumer router like anything (I guess an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/), you'll get a layer 3 device that creates a new network for the 4 ports that are all in their own little lan. I think you mean to say that servers need direct connections to each other and so having different networks is not an option, but networks are capable of talking directly to each other.
Lastly, if you describe more of what you are wanting to do, we will be able to tell you if we think you'll be best served with a big switch, several consumer routers, other, etc.
It doesn't work because of "AP Client Isolation" - devices on the wifi in your flat can't see each other for security reasons, so your phone can't see the bridge. You don't need a travel router either, just a basic home router should work just fine and will probably be cheaper. I think you're in a different country so the exact same model might not be available, but something like this should work. TP-Link N450 WiFi Router - Wireless Internet Router for Home (TL-WR940N) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/
This router has Qos and per device bandwidth limiting. $28. Works great.
TP-Link N450 Wi-Fi Router - Wireless Internet Router for Home(TL-WR940N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-lgyBb4492CE4
Note: Amazon has goofed the description for the past 2 days, they show capacity AC1200, but is correct when you add it to cart. The one you want is the $28 one.
TP-Link N450 Wi-Fi Router - Wireless Internet Router for Home(TL-WR940N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v29RBb20HPPS3
Since you’re not looking for speed or features, something like this should do just fine. You can just go on amazon and type in wireless router and lookin for the cheapest one from a reputable brand with good reviews. That’s all I did to find the one I linked.
Would something like this work, for instance? Just a bit confused because it said the Ethernet had to come from a modem? It’s just the socket in the wall in my room.
I use this Router and have it set up in repeater mode, so it receives the signal from your main router then rebroadcasts it. I have it connected to my PC via ethernet and get great speeds and connectivity.
The mesh Network suggestion is a good one, but relatively more expensive. I replaced my Comcast provided router with this $28 router TP-Link N450 Wi-Fi Router - Wireless Internet Router for Home(TL-WR940N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_p0zCBbB4R9G8Q
Got much better coverage in my old house with plaster covering lath and steel mesh walls than the Comcast provided router. This one also has per device bandwidth limiting which makes it so that I can reduce data use for some of my kids that watch hours of videos.
Another alternative that works even better than mesh networks and is usually less expensive, is using a standard router and a wired access point.
This $30 router is great. I have it, it has by device bandwidth control, and it has no trouble at all streaming 3 continuous high-definition streams to my TV's in my house. TP-Link N450 Wireless Wi-Fi Router, Up to 450Mbps (TL-WR940N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_-MJpBbKVPP25X
That should be fine. It's definitely on the lower end of the scale, but depending on the size of your house/apartment, it should be ok for a small place. If you want to go a step up. you could look into this one. It's a little more, cost wise, but has a bit better specs for a basic router.
I'd highly recommend this router instead of the Asus one. I'm a big fan of TPlink, and all their stuff is pretty great.
Small house, not a ton of demand on it. Most I could ever see happening at once is one Netflix instance, a couple of phones, and a laptop. No gaming or anything. Budget shouldn't be a problem, but obviously I'd rather not spend $100 if I don't have to. I've found a few decent candidates on Amazon for like $30, like this one. Thoughts?
It's a TP-Link N450. I'll amend the original post to include it. It claims speeds up to 450mbps so it feels like it'd be sufficient. It does have an access point option built in and i tried to configure it every which way but i'm clearly doing something wrong. sorry if i'm missing something.
I'm going to buy this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501689967&sr=1-9&keywords=tp+link
I've been talking with people outside the internet that had the same problems and when they connected this to their router, it solved their issue. What's funny is that my wifi signal is always full, but I've read that the icon can be misleading.
Like your apartment community said, the ethernet jack in the wall will provide you with your internet signal all you need is a router to redistribute it to your devices like the one linked below. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=twister_B01MR29ULB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I really appreciate your reply. So, you're saying that if I bought a WiFi router, powered it up, and connected my Pi through ethernet cable, I could then connect to the router (and thus to my Pi) with my phone's WiFi?
I have never set up a home network (with or without internet access), so to be clear, is this the type of router I would need? I am not going to buy that exact router, but I am talking about the correct component, right? I might try to find an old router lying around if that's the case!
How many people on average would be using it simultaneously?
This would probably do: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-UK-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490350125&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+router
States bandwidth control per device and has a WPS button for easy wi fi connectivity (Press button on router, press a button on your device, connected).
I would recommend keeping it plugged in and powered on just unplug the Ethernet when not in use. You cant really go wrong nowadays they are all fairly good.
Oh damn, that's actually rather annoying.
Well, unfortunately I'm out of options other than saying a new router is probably your only option, can probably find a better one but I found one for 30$ on Amazon.
Hope someone provides a better solution than myself.
Thank you very much! That's much more affordable than the ones I was looking at before and they both still look really good.
What do you think about this router? It's by the same brand as the one you linked, but it's less than half the cost:
I think the big thing that makes this one cheaper is that the max speed is less. This one's is 450 while the one you linked is 1750. But honestly I'm never going to be able to afford internet that fast lol so I don't think I would get enough use out of the ultra expensive one to justify the extra cost. Is there anything else you think I'd be missing out on if I went with the cheaper one? Like I said I don't do a whole lot of demanding activities and I'm not a super tech person. I just want something that's above average and not more expensive than necessary.
Also, if I wanted to switch from Xfinity Comcast to AT&T, would that modem still work for that? It says it's compatible with Xfinity, Time Warner, WoW, and some others, but not AT&T. AT&T is a pretty big company so I figured if it works with all those companies it must also work with AT&T, right?
Thank you again!
Nope.
A router is a device that allows you to have multiple devices on one internet connection. Bandwidth is shared between devices, but if you have a cable available it makes it possible to use more than one device with that single connection.
There's no monthly fee (ISPs will charge rentals in some cases, but you're not dealing directly with the ISP), just a purchase cost. Setup is usually pretty simple, as in 'just plug it in'. As I mentioned, though, the complex CAN prevent this, and additionally the connection could require some amount of configuration within the router.
I'd recommend just buying a router from someplace with a return policy. Plug it in, connect to it (Via cable or wifi) and see what happens. If it just doesn't work, return it.
I know Roku has updates, maybe that could be the issue. But as far as any router updates, the fastest way to go is buy a new one and hook it up to your existing comcast service and set the roku up. I just got this one for my mom this weekend (has comcast as well), and just bought a roku stick, and set it up all by herself. I just picked the router. Here's a link to the one I picked out (very cheap and great quality).
hell, i bought a TP-Link N router after owning a DIR-601N for years, it was a 40$ router but even still, my wireless speeds have quadrupled, and running speedtest on my 25mbps DSL line i'd get jitter of +/- 5mbps one room away and test at ~21mbps maximum and now, in the basement three rooms away it keeps a solid 24.5, while I pull down 24.8 over cat5. And this router ran me about 30 bucks on amazon.
I used to drop connection whenever I was using multiple high-bandwidth applications, the router's chipset couldn't handle it all and my entire network would go down for a few minutes, but i haven't run into any issues since, I can throw streaming, P2P, and gaming at it simultaneously with no significant latency issues.
It's by no means a top of the line router, but even at the same entry-level price point of my original hardware just the advances in technology have put a huge gap in performance for the same investment.
Honestly anything that is wifi N and has external antennas suffice but even the latter is not necessary. This is a great router. With that said if you have money to spend might as well get a router with wifi AC.
Thanks for the detailed response.
So I currently have my modem in my basement, and my TP-Link RE200 plugged in on the main level in my house.
If i purchased a router like you're talking about, would I then plug the router into the main level of my house, then use an ethernet cord to connect it to the RE200? Or does the router need to be directly connected to my modem?
Is this the router you're talking about? https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Wireless-External-Antennas-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=tp+link+tl-wr940n&qid=1595635884&s=electronics&sr=1-2
​
that does sound like a good cheap fix, is this the right router or would you recommend a different one?
TP-Link N450 WiFi Router - Wireless Internet Router for Home (TL-WR940N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_W8TPQCD0RCGGPM35Y0Y0
Ah my dude...if you really want to do this, you can get a brand new router for $25: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N450-Wi-Fi-Router-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/
And forgive me for saying this, because I don't want to sound like I understand your company better than you, but...
> Our work place blocks google forms. Google sheets. I want to be able to have these folks fill out a google form
These two things are not compatible. If it's needed for the business and the only way to get that survey data is through Google Forms, in my opinion, the correct course of action is approaching your IT department and telling them the situation, and letting them escalate it so that you can whitelist a single machine to be exempt from the Google Sheets rule (like your machine for instance).
Also, while I have no experience with it (and the folks at /r/sysadmin might be more helpful), if your business is already using any Office products, Office has a Forms feature of its own: https://www.office.com/launch/forms?auth=1
Getting a dedicated machine and maintaining a file server with authentication solely for the singular purpose of being able to convert Google Sheets into a PDF and printing them sounds like a very bad long term solution!
Just want to be honest. This sounds like a fascinating home project, but not something I would do at my work (I work in corporate-facing enterprise IT).
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N450-Wi-Fi-Router-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY
Something like this would be the best $25 you could do for your network. Set it up in AP (not router) mode, and hang it off one of the LAN ports on your router.
The other option, if your current WiFi is old, update to a new WiFi6 with Mu-mimo, and relegate your current WiFi to be the legacy AP hanging off the new router.
> Consumer routers since at least 2010 do not come with Fast ports
Umm, I went to Amazon, looked up router, ticked under $25, this was the first one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/
Not a single gigabit port on that.
This also has like 17,000 reviews, so probably 100,000+ were sold.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DWFPDNO/
Maybe you live in a wealthy area, but I've seen fast Ethernet all the time.
I have my switch, PC and mobile devices connected to this router and the router is connected to the ethernet port in my bedroom. It works great I get 90+ mb download speed and 11+ mb upload speed. Whenever the Wi-Fi goes out the ethernet ports never seem to get affected so my Wi-Fi is always up.
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
TP-Link N450 WiFi Router - Wireless Internet Rout… | $24.98 | $24.98 | 4.3/5.0 |
TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router (Archer A7) -Dua… | $59.99 | $59.99 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
TP-Link N450 WiFi Router - Wireless Internet Rout… | $24.98 | $24.98 | 4.3/5.0 |
TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router (Archer A7) -Dua… | $59.99 | $59.99 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
I hear that! For years I was my mom's paralegal. I had to learn to do IT along the way because neither of us wanted to hire someone, haha. I had to deal with a lot of internet issues over the years.
If plugging your computer straight into the router works, then it is clearly an issue with the router's wifi. If you want wifi, an easy fix would be to buy a separate router to plug into the router provided to your office. You can get a cheap one for $25 on Amazon or pay a little more to get a better Router on Amazon for $60.
why not buy a 20 dollar tplink router off Amazon instead?
something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_vByXFbJ2M9W80
Google seems to think it's not very likely that you're going to get this to work: https://support.google.com/chromecast/answer/3228205?hl=en
99% of routers these days support UPNP. What kind of router are you using? I can get more specific once we know that.
You may want to consider upgrading. If your router is old enough to not support UPNP, it may not be able to transmit at speeds fast enough to adequately trasmit HQ video locally. I use this one, which is only $30 on Amazon:
TP-LINK-TL-WR940N-Wireless-External-Antennas
*edit:typos
Just this cheap one on amazon, has worked perfectly!!
TP-Link N450 Wireless Wi-Fi Router, Up to 450Mbps (TL-WR940N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MnNZAbPSGVGJN
If anything, if you got access to a ethernet cable then just get yourself a cheap router and make your own WiFi for your room/dorm.
Otherwise, this one works with the Switch
Buy a shitty router that has WDS bridging such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N450-Wi-Fi-Router-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=tp+link+router&qid=1562035850&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Drilling holes at discreet locations would be the best solution and you can have the cables going around the room very cleanly using PVC trunking.
For the centralised thing you can use a router with ethernet ports. Like this one
This is super helpful. Would you dissuade me from pairing the CM500V with a budget router like this? TP-Link Router
I don't think our plan is for more than 100Mbps
Short of going to Ubiquiti systems, this tp-link has served me fairly well at home and in the office
There are $30 routers new and with a warranty: TP-Link, Asus, Meco, Tenda, etc.
+ $25 for a 200Mbps powerline adapter to connect PC and router.
Ah I see. The ONT is the box that they installed in my home, right? That's in my basement (I think), so does that mean I would need to hook up an ethernet cable from that to my router? There's an ethernet port on the same coax outlet where the coaxial cable that connects to my current rented verizon cable is. Could that possibly also be connected to the ONT too? I guess only way to find out is to try it right? xD
Also, if you don't mind me asking (sorry for all the questions), assuming I have that the ONT stuff all set, I currently have this TP-LINK router that I was recommended by a friend. Would it be better to get this adpater or would this cheaper one work just as fine?
If you want to use the full Ultimate 200 service speed, you will need one of the devices from this list that say they are 300Mpbs compatible.
I've personally had really good luck with the Netgear CM500 modem. It's $89.99 at the Office Max @ Perimeter Parkway.
You will need a wifi router too, but I'm not sure what your budget is...the options are endless there. A lower end solid budget unit that will utilize your speed is the N450 (NOT N300): https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-300Mbps-TL-WR841N/dp/B003Y5RYNY
A few options I'm looking at, need it PS4 specific though.
Ahh I see. So I'd need an access point or a range extender, but as you stated a range extender likely is not the best option. Can you recommend me a product that will work well with the items that I have listed I own originally?
Also, after googling and seeing on Amazon, WAPs seem to be more expensive than an actual router. Would I be able to simply buy another router ( https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1471114059&sr=1-2&keywords=router or whatever) and have that connected via ethernet cable?
Sorry again, I apologize this is probably very annoying, this sort of thing is a little difficult to understand for me, and I know that it's annoying AF for you to spoonfeed it. :(
Edit: This is what I would need to wire into my room? https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA801ND-Wireless-300Mbps-Repeater/dp/B004UBU8IE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471114142&sr=8-1&keywords=access+point+wifi
i'm a big fan of the TP-Link WR940N
also not asking for a review but would this work? http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR940N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1445718225&sr=1-12&keywords=wifi+router
Both a TP-LINK TL-WR940N Wireless N300 ($25) and a Medialink Wireless Router ($18) have worked great for us, streaming wireless video and online gaming to as many as five or six computers, tablets, and set top boxes simultaneously when the grand kids visit, with no complaints (these boxes also handle wired Ethernet connections at the same time too). Each one has been tested to function throughout an entire large two story home, from one extreme corner to the one opposite. Of course, that's based on the wifi router being positioned near the ceiling in the center of the home.
We tested both for their wired and wifi capabilities when purchased, but at present use one just for wired and one just for wifi (the TP link can have its wifi turned off or on with a toggle switch). I set it up this way so that in a pinch either router can do everything by itself-- so that way we have a spare for everything, if one goes out.
I did this because for many years we had only a wired router in our basement, and a wifi only router on the first floor. That original wifi router was really old, and fraught with problems, but not annoying enough to replace. Then the ancient wired router in the basement quit, cutting us off completely from the internet (since the wifi router got its access from that one). Well, almost completely: we could still connect the nearest personal computer via hard wire straight to the cable modem. But that's rough for a household accustomed to more ubiquitous access.
Facing possible days being strangled this way if we had to order something online, we checked the local Walmart, and found available there mostly very low review rated routers, all costing LOTS more than you'd have to pay for them online. So we bit the bullet and ordered those two highly rated (and cheap!) routers from Amazon instead. But got those two mentioned, so that from now on we'll have a backup router that can do it all, should one of them fail.
Good choice, for wired with regular Wifi a basic tp-link router will do. I use this with gargoyle-router installed. http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR940N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
We have a TP-LINK TL-WR940N Wireless N300 Home Router, 300Mpbs, 3 External Antennas, IP QoS, WPS Button($25) and Medialink Easy Setup Wireless Router, Repeater & Range Extender (300 Mbps)($18), both cheap wifi and wired routers (4 Ethernet ports a piece), and they work great. We have a very large house, with plenty of wired and wireless devices (sometimes dozens of all these at once, due to visitors). We've had a LAN since the early 1990s, so much legacy stuff to maintain with any replacements or upgrades.
Just one of these would be plenty for most folks, but our old wired LAN depends on a wired router in the basement, which is about the worst place for a wifi router, so we keep separate routers for those functions.
Recently though when our old wired router died, we faced being without distributed internet access for many days, while we waited for a new one to arrive, so I decided to prevent that from ever happening again by making sure both the routers we use could serve as backups to the other in a pinch. So we have some nice redundancy in our system now.
I put the TP Link in the basement, and switched off its wifi for now (it has a handy toggle for that). But before the switch off, tests showed its wifi did surprisingly well from that bad location through the entire house.
The Medialink we use for dedicated wifi now, positioned near the ceiling of our first floor, in the center of the house. Its throughput regularly supports multiple video and online gaming streams to things like set top boxes and tablets and an iMac.
Note that a sufficiently long Ethernet cable from your modem to your wireless router would let you place the router near the center of your home, up near the ceiling, which is usually the optimal spot for maximum effectiveness throughout the dwelling. We do that here. And even long cables are dirt cheap now from Amazon. In the 1990s such things cost a lot more, so I had to terminate my own long runs to install our LAN.
I recently bought two routers possessing both 4 wired ports and wireless capabilities. Either of them seem to do well covering our entire larger than average home (I've tested them both, but currently only use one for the wireless job). And they're both cheap, too.
I would expect the $25 TP-LINK TL-WR940N Wireless N300 Home Router, 300Mpbs, IP QoS, WPS Button with its three external antennas would have the greater range. It also has a handy button on the front to turn off its wifi if you want (we do that here, and use it as just a wired router; but if something happens to our dedicated wireless router upstairs, we can always push the button to turn on this one's wireless again).
The $17 Medialink Easy Setup Wireless Router, Repeater & Range Extender (300 Mbps) is more compact with no external antennas, and plenty powerful enough all on its own to provide for our wireless needs.
If you're curious about why we're using this arrangement, you can read about it in 4-2-15: Our internet router abruptly dies; I go shopping for a replacement.
The router is a TP-Link TL-WR940N.
Yes.
This reddit post is pretty helpful. http://www.reddit.com/r/3DS/comments/1k0g58/setting_up_a_streetpass_relay_at_home
personally I got this from amazon ( it was $20 few weeks ago..) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y5RYNY
And I deploy openwrt on it. http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/start