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For a good USB 2.4GHz Wi-Fi adapter that works with Linux-libre, I recommend this one available on Amazon (it uses the AR9271 chipset). If you don't need 5GHz or anything fancy, it works very well, and even has an antenna. If 5GHz is desired, I think a couple of chipsets have been reverse-engineered and will work, but one will need to do a little bit of searching.
I ordered a tp link wireless adapter on Amazon that can handle up to 150mb/s you just plug it into your motherboards USB port. Here's a link.
Thanks for the guide! I used it to set up Homepass on Windows 10 with the TL-WN722N tonight. I had to disable my MAC filter on my router's 2.4 GHz band before it would work (in retrospect, this is obvious since the MAC address of the wireless adapter is cycling through the entries BASE256.txt).
I'm not sure how current the list in BASE256.txt is; after getting 10-20 streetpasses within an hour, I got only one in three hours.
This is a slightly newer version of the one I currently have, but just about any similar dongle with an external antenna will work. The main advantage is that the antenna isn't buried inside your computer like the one for your original network card. Add in a short USB extension and you can put the dongle on your dash or velcro it to the outside of a window that faces the connection you want to use for even better reception in a van(you want to get the antenna outside of that tin can if at all possible).
Honestly the cheap and super effective option I use personally is this TP-Link adapter, most of the time you don't need those big ones with lots of antennas and things. If you're looking for a cheap effective option, you can't go wrong with that one.
(Edit) It supports monitor mode and all that jazz, in case you were wondering.
After writing the last comment, I realized I had an adapter lying around from a project I was working on. It's a TP Link Adapter
I got it setup and it works perfectly. Thank you so much for your help!
back in the day i used this one with my DS215j and my RS816 for a simple guest wifi it will work in client and Accesspoint mode
TP-Link TL-WN722N High Gain WLAN USB Adapter (WPS, kompatibel mit Raspberry Pi, Windows 10/8.x/7/XP, Mac OS 10.9~10.13) weiß/schwarz https://www.amazon.de/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yLXcFb22PSAPK
no top speed dongle only 150 Mbps
I made something similar using one of these USB WiFi devices, a director and reflector made of copper wire, and a rectangle of plastic from a food container. Worked wonderfully, the quick tests I did showed a ~4 dB signal gain.
Another easy option is looking for models that get offered in packages with rapberry pi computers, because 99% of people who use a pi run linux on it.
I have one of these for those moments someone comes in with a machine that has a chip I can't easily get to work.
Don't get the newer version that is advertised there, it uses a different brand chipset and will not work properly.
I feel your pain. It's almost impossible to find a wifi adapter for 5GHz that works, and you only get the same generic answers from pretty much everyone. All of the ones suggested that work are 2.4 GHz. Unfortunately, that frequency is so cluttered now it hurts your speeds, especially if you're in a condo or townhouse. I can pick up 16 different networks from my living room. I keep hoping someone will provide a 5GHz compatible model.
This is the 2.4GHz model I use: TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N), Version 2.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D7oWAbDH7SG14
I imagine since you are recommending it, that it can go promiscuous and everything? I've been looking for a while for a broke college kid budget wifi card, and that one is $20 on Amazon...assuming I found the right one. If yes, Thank you so much for that recommendation!
I have been using this with Lenovo Yoga 13 and Mint 18, it sticks out a little bit more than I would like but it works. no setup
While there may be cheaper, IMO this is the best bang for your buck. I use it and know others that use it. Works great with Linux, airmon-ng, and wireshark
TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0fzozbQ54J4ES
Slow WiFi speeds when using a tiny WiFi adapter or the built-in WiFi are a common complaint here on /r/raspberry_pi. We are talking 2-3 MByte/s, or 16-24 Mbit/s top speeds when using a NAS on a stock Raspbian.
My normal fix is to get them to use the Ethernet, or to use a WiFi adapter like this.
Some might, but i've never seen one. You'll want a wifi dongle that can go into monitor mode like this one It uses the atheros chipset. There are several others that use the chip, but I personally use this one and it works well with Windows, Raspbian, and most other forms of Linux
I haven't tried VPN, so I can't comment on that. Travel routers in general tend to have pretty wimpy CPUs though, so VPN encryption is certainly something I can imagine them struggling to do at reasonable speeds.
However, I am using a USB WiFi adapter without issue. I started out with an Edimax EW-8911UN nano adapter, and later changed to this figuring it would get me better reception with that big antenna:
I do always have several USB extension cords in my backpack, so if I wanted to I could move the USB adapter away from the router's internal WiFi adapter to try to avoid interference, but so far I've never bothered because it seemed to work just fine.
I also recently got a cheap dual-band adapter so that I can uplink to 5 Ghz networks. I haven't put much time into it yet, but in my initial attempts OpenWrt seemed to run into problems scanning for wifi networks with it.
I wanted to go with an AC adapter, but there seems to only be one chipset that everyone is using, and that chipset seems to have terrible Linux support (not in the kernel so you have to compile it in yourself)...
Sorry bud.... not capable of injection and no drivers for Kali. You're SOL with that card. It's completely unsupported. Really only the v2 is fully supported and then even that model can come with two different chipsets so you'd still only have a 50% chance of getting the right one.
I recommend you purchase the TP-Link TL-WN722N. It's the card that I use. It has an atheros 9271 chipset and uses the ath9k driver that is capable of monitor mode and packet injection. You can buy it here.
I did something like aireplay-ng -9 and packets were sent.
Would this be something to look towards getting?
Okay thank you. Can you please explain to me the differences between the TP-LINK Archer C7, the C5, the Nighthawk AC5300, and the Nighthawk R7000?
In addition to one of the above routers, I will get two of these TP-Link Dongles for the two S400CA's and change my network to 5GHZ.
Does this set-up make sense?
I would try to go for a RX 480. Unless you really need it, I would drop the optical drive. You can get this wireless adapter for cheaper and it is very reliable unless you have an internet connection that supports 150+ Mbps. I'll let some other guys who know more develop a build with a better GPU, especially if this is gonna be a gaming rig.
Something like this will save some space inside your case. I've owned one for over 4 years, downloads over 10 MB/s. It has the bandwidth you need and comes with a usb extender so you can adjust where it is placed for better signal. Highly recommended.
EDIT: Gamed intensely for years with that thing, no problems. Finally moved into a place where I can hardwire my computer and I can hardly tell the difference.
Also, if you are a student or something and can get a cheaper copy of windows and can afford an i7, I would recommend that, considering the quality of your build. Remember that peripherals like monitors and keyboards are a lot easier to change and upgrade down the line.
No I found it easier to just download debian and then download whatever tools I needed separately because I hear kalilinux isnt the best main OS but more of a good live boot OS. Also installing debian it actually let me use grub booter no problem so now I can boot into windows and debian from UEFI rather then switching to legacy when i wanted to use Kali. This whole problem was caused from trying to get my internal networking card to work with linux. Ive ran into other problems with it before in ubuntu but it was alot easy fix then it was for kali, even with debian I had to mess around abit but eventually i figured it out. But even after I got it running I just bought an wireless adapter, saves me from future problems and I hear it works well with Kalilinux and all of its tools and its not to expensive. Hope you the best on your journey, I'm still new to linux so none of this was easy for me, for all I know there could be a simple fix but I didn't find it. Good luck!
PCIe or USB for wireless internet? I've been looking everywhere and I'm getting mixed results. I have one PCIe slot left on my mobo and I know the router is going to be central in a small off-campus college house, so distance doesn't matter. Right now I'm tempted on getting a USB dongle with antennas because I'm cheap and I get it with Prime same day delivery. Thoughts?
More than likely just better connectivity and it would have 5ghz which cheaper adapters may not offer, though it's becoming more common. You probably won't see any actual speed increase unless your old adapter was completely saturated, which again is unlikely as most peoples internet isn't nearly good enough to do it. Take this one for example. For $20 you get 150Mbps which most providers like comcast don't even offer options above that.
Hey!,So my parents were not keen on moving my computer back in the kitchen to test this, since my birthday is coming up they said if i really want to use linux that much they will buy mea new usb wireless adapter. i've been looking at this one and am wondering if it would work out of box.
Choosing a compatible adaptor would very, very likely solve your problem!
I hated to suggest that because it's kind of like giving up. But, after spending a lot of time, you have to ask how much is your time worth?
I've had good luck with Panda and TP-Link. Here's one that is similar to mine: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1456624465&sr=1-4&refinements=p_89%3ATP-LINK
Many makes will work, but do your homework before you buy. You should be able to order one for less than $20.
Update: These are older but work for me out of the box:
Panda Mini Wifi (b/g/n) 150Mbps Wireless-N 2.4GHz USB Adapter
I use a TP-LINK TL-WN722N and it works perfectly, through floors and walls, full speed. Effortless install and never had a problem. I just use it for Internet access, though, so you may want something AC if you're planning more heavy network access.
I have this thing, hasn't failed me yet.
I dunno if its the best one out there but it works well in both Windows and Linux, so presume it should work in Mac as well. Picked it up for basically nothing when Newegg Randomly gave me a $10 gift card a little while back.
So I was thinking about buying this wireless adapter: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002SZEOLG?keywords=TL-WN722N%20Wireless%20N150%20wireless%20adapters&qid=1450320774&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
I get about 5 mbps on my current laptop . I play games and I was wondering if this is going to decrease my internet performance in any way. Im about 30 feet away from my router
I've been using this one for the past 18 months. I haven't had any problems with it.
You do have to install the driver/utility for this, a cd is included with it on it. But, if you don't have a cd drive you can download it from the manufacturer website on a pc with internet, put it on a usb drive and then plug it into you pc and install it.
For gaming, an ethernet cord from the PC to the router is the best choice. However any decent usb wifi adapter will do.
Are you on wifi? I changed my USB wireless adaptor and that made a pretty big difference..the old one I was using would drop the connection for seconds at a time which was very annoying, but my newer one holds steady and picks up the signal well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG?keywords=usb%20wifi%20adaptor&qid=1445894046&ref_=sr_1_13&sr=8-13 is the one I have
We're going to need a bit more information to be able to help you. What type of PC is it, very few desktops have built in WiFi. If that's the case you'll have to buy a wireless usb dongle such as this one, just make sure that it is compatible with your router.
If the motherboard has built in WiFi, the driver may need to be reinstalled (very rarely happens unless it was fully wiped before being given to you).
You can try somthing like this which might get a better connection than your built in card.
Some motherboards have Wi-Fi capability built in; since this is quite rare it's usually a major selling point.
Otherwise, just pick up a cheap Wi-Fi adapter. Something like this will do.
tp-link usb wireless adapter
If the one I have failed I'd get another (lasted 2 yrs so far). Low ping, low jitter, no problems. There's nothing more to want.
I think I got it at $10 but it's usually $15.
Oh they’re connected to wifi?
I would set up a rouge wifi access point with same SSID and password as the existing one. If you need the password, you can dump it from the computer you have access to. Then you can send a single deauthentication packet to the MAC address for the target computer until it chooses your network (this is not a denial of service as you are forcing his computer to connect through your lab computer, which is still connected to the network)
From there, you can do network captures and control DNS. Do a network capture of port 80 (unecrypted) and DNS requests. He likely has software that automatically checked for software updates over HTTP (VLC does this, among others) every time he starts it.
Alternatively, you can rewrite a DNS request to cause windows to pop up a native windows login window via captive portal (the pop up you see at starbucks wifi)
Documentation here: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/mobilebroadband/captive-portals#cch
All in all, wifi makes things a lot easier. If you have an atheros/other wireless usb handy you can do all of this in ~15min or less.
Here’s the model I use:
TP-Link 150Mbps High Gain Wireless USB Adapter for PC and Laptops (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NC40CbD87F441
It’s $15 and even if you don’t succeed, you’ll never have crappy wifi on campus again. I have 3 in my bag right now.
Do you have an Android smart phone or tablet?
If so, DL the Wiggle wifi app.
With it running, you can walk around the property and better triangulate various signals.
If you have a macbook, you can do the same thing pretty much with Kismac. I use WiFiFoFum to do it with an iPhone, but it requires jailbreaking.
Subnet Insight is an absolutely amazing app for iPhone for taking keeping track of your local network and keeping it safe. It's $5, and the only non-free software I'm linking.
If you have an external wireless adapter, or are willing to spend $15-$30 on a specialized one, I can walk you through putting it in monitor mode and really getting the the bottom of the issue.
Here's a simple tp-link USB wifi adapter you can use to monitor all transmissions over B/G/N wifi, for only $11 amazon prime.. Here's a very high quality (and foolproof) directional antenna you can use to make it much more effective for less than $30.
^Also ^a ^lot ^of ^the ^advice ^you've ^gotten ^so ^far ^is ^pretty ^~~bad~~ummmmm, ^or ^too ^complicated ^w/out ^better ^context.
But don't be discouraged. Network internals & also wifi/radio signals are complex topics, but the basics are accessible enough to pick up quickly in your situation.
From my research, those two are the most affordable and flexible network adapters out there. they support 5GHz, monitor mode, packet injection, and have native drivers support on a vast majority of Linux OS' (Kali, Parrot, NetHunter, etc)
Order one off Amazon Prime. I'll give you a link to a good one.
> Tails automaticly spoofs MAC addresses correct?
NO, it doesn't. You'll have to select "More options" when Tails boots, and then enable MAC spoofing - BUT - you need to know that MAC spoofing doesn't work with all wireless devices - and what's worse, you may not have any indication that it hasn't worked. For best results, you should use a wireless device that uses an Atheros chipset that has fully free drivers available, like a TP-LINK TL-WN722N (amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=pd_sim_147_1/175-6016035-8978521?ie=UTF8&refRID=1APNFMTCSM0TRM8ZW9GK ). Such a wireless adapter will always work out-of-the-box on any Linux system, and all of its features and capabilities will be available. Note that some of the very newest Atheros chipsets do not have free drivers available, so watch out for those.
>Any other precautions one should take while trying to crack a WiFi? I was thinking of trying it using KALI, it seemed pretty straight forward.
Yes, Kali is generally the tool of choice for this. Anonymity concerns are minimal since you will only be using Kali to actually discover the network key, and then shutting it down immediately after and switching to your actual browsing OS (hopefully Tails). The same precautions about the importance of MAC spoofing apply, though. There are many resources online that can tell you how to do this with Kali.
>Would a VPN router off of their connection be worth the extra step / money or no?
I would say not really. Read through my root-level comment in reply to the OP for more info. https://www.reddit.com/r/DarkNetMarkets/comments/3pc46x/anonymity_for_the_blackhat_opsec/cw5r9cw
You are correct. In my experience, this is generally not a problem. The hotel is probably giving you a slower uplink anyway. Or, even if you're not getting max speed, you're getting plenty to watch Netflix easily.
I'm not aware of a native two-radio travel router. However, being that I am a network engineer and interested in this kind of thing, I eventually ended up looking for a dual radio solution just to see if I could make it work. If nothing else, at least this gets my LAN traffic off the same frequency as the other nearby hotel guests on my same hotel AP.
I started with a Ravpower Filehub that I already had. I was going to link you to the Amazon page for it, but it appears they have reused the same page to sell a new version of the device that doesn't look like mine and I don't know if it can be used in the same way. The one I have looks like this:
That travel router is nice because it has a built in USB battery bank. That can be nice when you're trying to find the magic spot in the hotel where wifi is strong enough. I find the best positioning without cables, then plug it in.
I installed OpenWRT on it and went looking for a USB wifi radio to add on. OpenWRT has limited support for USB wifi radios, and in fact I couldn't find anything 802.11ac. I eventually found this dual-band N adapter, which is supported:
This gives me a true two-radio solution. The USB radio is dual-band and the internal radio is 2.4 only. OpenWRT isn't a super user-friendly solution, but it works for me. For example, it is up to me manually to set the LAN/AP channel to make sure it isn't simply sitting on the same channel as the WAN/client radio.
I have used this in a number of hotels (I travel a lot) and it works well with my Chromecast. This gets me past the captive portals on the Chromecast, and also on devices that are technically captive portal capable but annoying (like the Kindle). One login on any device is all it takes for all of my devices, no matter how many or which ones I bring.
I've even used it in a hotel with 128 kbps Internet that was too slow to stream. I was able to use Plex on my laptop to stream local content across the travel router's LAN to the Chromecast. The slow Internet WAN wasn't enough to stream on, but it was enough for the Chromecast to load apps and consider itself connected to the net.
One caveat: Some hotels limit the max speed of each client. If you log into their network with your phone and laptop as different clients, they each get a share. If you use a travel router, they both have to share a single client's allocation.
Random other advice: You know how streaming sticks often come with a short 3-inch or so HDMI extension cable? Use it. One of the hotel TV HDMI ports destroyed my Chromecast's HDMI connector (it actually pushed one of the pins on the Chromecast's HDMI connector back), and it would have been better if it had just destroyed the HDMI extension cable.
Have used this one. Seems like an external connector is getting a bit harder to find.
It depends alot. The PCIE ones are consideres more stable due to the nature that they plug in directly to the PCIE slot and have an antenna that attaches to the back.
USB dongle ones come in many shapes and the ones that also have an antenna attached to them have been usually very stable whenever i've had to use them. The smaller ones that look like a logitech unified receiver arent as stable and there have been a couple that i even havent been able to get a connection with.
I'd say if you don't plan to move it, get a pcie one like u/ireojimayo said but if they are too expensive for your needs then just get a decent usb one with an antenna. Ive used this TP link one several times at work for employees that work from home (call center work) and don't have an ethernet connection possibility and its been very stable: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG
Your realistic 3rd option is also a wireless access point. It basically looks like a router or a switch but works in the sense that it creates a connection with the wifi and then it gives you an ethernet cable to plug in to your pc. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WA801N-Wireless-Supports-Multi-SSID/dp/B08GS211V9/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=wireless%2Baccess%2Bpoint&qid=1654237261&sr=8-6&th=1
does your laptop not have a wifi adapter? If not I suggest getting this one from amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002SZEOLG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1 it's pretty cheap and it supports monitor mode and packet injection (last time I checked) (useful for network attacks). As for the ethernet problem, I don't really know how to fix it, the error you showed me makes me think of doing a bios update, but maybe you don't need to. idk if reinstalling kali will help. Did you update recently? did you mess around config files? heck it could also just be a rusty ethernet port if it's an older laptop.
Would something like this be fine for my 100Mbps internet connection which'll be like 20 feet away from the router or should I try for something more robust like the N300 for $7 more or even some of those weird brands which are super cheap but have great reviews like this?
Satellite box is underway since the Air 540 went on sale at Amazon but I am trying my best to keep cables to a minimum...
Hi, can you please share the link ?
I can see on Amazon but these are not V1 :
I know it's only goes to 802.11n but by that point you should consider just running a UTP cable.
> I'm looking for a USB that has a sma male connector/port on it, that you can plug antennas to.
is this like what you have in mind? The antenna is removable.
I have a 100Mbps internet connection but was thinking about putting together a satellite system out of an AIR 540 since it's too big for my desk. It'll be about 15 feet from my desk but roughly 25 feet away from the router and I am wondering what I would need out of a wireless adapter in order to not compromise the speed. It'll be dedicated strictly to this and should have little to no interference to affect the signal quality.
I just don't want an extra cable really.
Would something even as basic as a TP-Link TL-WN722N be fine since it's rated for 150Mbps or should I aim for "overkill" and get the N300 for $7 more? What about these no name brands which have insanely good reviews?
I use the following TP-Link adapter. On amzon its $12.99, however I bought it locally under $`10. Best idea to buy from a local shop with cash rather than credit card. This will help you by not having any trail of purhasing the device if things go wrong with your Tails use.
I am using it with Mac and it's working good. The only drawback is it's Wifi-N not AC.
Sorry, you're wrong and I'll explain why:
In the old days of jailbreaking, talented devs supported iOS security by creating patches for exploits that were not covered by a jailbreakable iOS version. There were at least 2 instances where exploits were fixed by jailbreak devs and published on Cydia before Apple was able to fix the exploit in an iOS update.
But time has passed, and those talented devs have either moved on or lost interest. Case-in-point: there is a manual way to fix broadpwn on 10.2. Search this subreddit to find it. The fix was discovered by a non-dev, but no dev has stepped up to package it and slap it on BigBoss for everyone to download. The interest in maintaining security in vulnerable versions of iOS just isn't there anymore.
Also, you say broadpwn won't be used. Again I say, you're wrong. The barrier to using it is in purchasing this $14 wifi dongle and
following this helpful tutorial:. The kicker is, broadpwn is passive and undetectable, so if you were being exploited by it, you'd never know.
In my opinion, Apple has successfully targeted jailbreaking by lifting the best, most interesting tweaks that jailbreak devs have come up with over the years, and integrating those features directly into iOS. iOS is the most secure mobile OS out there, and we are now living in a world where more time and money than ever before is being dumped into finding new ways to exploit devices. Just in September 2017 alone you have:
1. Equifax getting popped at least twice
2. a major DNSmasq exploit
3. CCleaner getting sabotaged
4. Kaspersky AV being implicated for allowing exfiltration of files from any computer that runs the software
5. MacOS High Sierra keychain exploit
6. iOS password box spoofing
7. Sonic drive-through credit card breach
8. HP allowing Russia access to Pentagon software
And I'm pretty sure I've missed a couple more major ones. More now than ever, maintaining security is important. If you don't believe that's true, that's fine for you. But I do, so that's why I upgraded to iOS 11.
I've used this one. Those tiny dongles with their tiny antenna have no range. And when you get them in range, they are slow. Good Luck.
Would something like this work?
I've had good luck with TP link, since you're going to be a bit far from the source try and get something with an external antenna like this:
you going after this? I just picked up one of these and it worked right off the bat on Jessie. Do you have another sd card you can use to try another OS?
and just to verify, did you use something like:
sudo ifconfig wlan1 down
sudo iwconfig wlan1 mode monitor
Found it. This is the one that I used, and it was plug and play. The other one looks more impressive.
Honestly couldn't tell you, but I'm also an advocate of USB wifi dongles, because you get to choose which wifi chipset you use, you get to take the dongle with you when you change your hardware and if reception is kinda shoddy you can use an USB extension cable to try and place it somewhere where reception is better. YMMV of course, but I'd take the USB dongle over the integrated card any day.
P.S. Had a little look around, the cheapest option I found was this:
Which is 60 dollars more than your board. It's got a much better chipset of course, which would allow overclocking if you were to upgrade your CPU, but it's definitely not ideal for your specific build.
If you want to go with a USB dongle instead, I can recommend the TP-Link TL-WN722N N150:
It's about 13 USD and it works like a charm, I use it myself to provide a wireless access point for my mobile devices from my desktop.
get one of these if wifi signal isn't enough. Was a life saver when I was living in an suv not by choice
The one I use is a TP-LINK TL-WN722N and its $12.25 on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG is a good option.
Here's a good website where they show some different laptops at the bottom that are used for Kali.
I personally wouldn't get a dedicated Kali machine, but maybe boot from USB, or use a small partition for the Kali, as it's not a good OS for things other than penetration testing.
As for wifi cards, it is hard to find laptops with internal cards that can go into monitor mode and such. I'd suggest getting an external one like this one where you can use it for other machines (i also use mine with my Raspberry Pi)
I really love the tplink wn722n...
TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ua.QybBX8QGEV
Do you mean to switch it on and off?
Or, do you want to remotely trigger DeAuthing (or other NodeMCU functions)?
If you want to DeAuth remotely, I would recommend getting a USB wifi dongle for Pi that supports it and running a simple script (Dongle: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG Script: https://github.com/DanMcInerney/wifijammer)
This one worked for me:
Works really well. Range wise is good, and this one can do the monitoring mode if you're into that.
Here's an amazon link for the curious
Also, I decided it would be best to use something along the lines of this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG and attach it to a laptop via usb extension cable
Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG
You can get USB WiFi adapters like these: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1471714962&sr=1-6&keywords=usb+wifi
This has worked well on the occasions I've needed it https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks again! I'm planning on buying this one from Amazon
you would need an wifi usb card
It just depends on your application and needs. There are a lot of decent refurb options under $220 here http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/category/avreceiver/home-audio/receivers-amps/home-theater-receivers/1.html. Personally I'd probably opt for the Onkyo TX-NR525. I have the newer model with built-in wireless networking and BT but you could easily add this USB adapter http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ for cheap if you want wireless and/or this BT adapter http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBCAW2/ if you want BT.
This one is good if you want an external antenna:
Works well with Linux Mint.
Doesn't really help your issue but if you don't get it working and are looking for a alternative, i use a TP-WN722N and it works fine with Linux. With openSUSE Leap dvd it detected it with no issues, didnt need to install anything, then with Debian Jessie ISO (firmware included) it doesn't detect it at first, but all i need to do is unplug it, plug it in and go back to the "detect network hardware" step. and then it detects it.
Here is a link to it http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449729806&sr=8-1&keywords=TP-Link+TL-WN722N+Wireless+N150
and nerdy info: https://wikidevi.com/wiki/TP-LINK_TL-WN722N
** Also avoid ASUS usb adapters, i bought one before this one, and it said it was "linux compatible" it was total lie.
I dont think that USB card is supported. I have a card with the same chipset "RTL8812AU" however i was not able to get it work in Linux for this purpose.
You'd need to purchase a card compatible with Kali and airodump such as this(2.4 ghz only) or have a look here
Once you have one of these you'd need to install Kali linux on your laptop, or more easily boot it up using VMware player.
Once you have kali, plug in your USB card and pass it through to the VM using the VMware "removable devices" menu.
In linux fire up a vm and run the following commands:
> Unlock the cards
rfkill unblock all
> Check which interface the card uses
> Kill any processes whic might interfere
airmon-ng check kill
> place the card into monitor mode, assuming your card is wlan0, replace with the name you find above
airmong-ng start wlan0
> This should place the card in monitor mode, and rename it something like wlan0mon. Now scan the entire 2.4 ghz band to find the channel your router is on
airodump-ng --band g wlan0mon
> From this list which comes up, find the channel which your SSID is on in the list, then run airodump-ng with the specific channel, for example channel 11
airodump-ng -c 11 wlan0mon
> Now your card is in monitor mode, and scanning channel 11. Now you can fire up wireshark to see whats happening. Boot up wireshark through the menu or cli, and then start a capture on your card wlan0mon. Once you see the packets coming through, in wireshark enter the following filter to see only deauth frames
wlan.fc.type_subtype eq 12
You should now see deauth frames which are coming over the air to any clients.
Let me know if you have any issue or questions if you do try this.
Could someone recommend a PCI Express card that's equal or better than this TP-LINK TL-WN722N? I need it for Kali Linux.
Don't get that one. It came out before 802.11n was official, meaning that it is a old model from the draft days.
Get this instead if you can: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/
For $35, you'll likely be able to find a decent wifi connection if you get a USB wifi adapter and a yagi antenna...and you might not even need the external antenna.
Also, CenturyLink seems to be overwhelmed right now as I've noticed my neighbors complaining about it taking 2-3 weeks to have their land lines repaired as existing customers. I'm not sure if this is due to the holiday or they're rolling out a ton of new gigabit ethernet subscribers and their techs are just that swamped. It seems trivial to turn up or troubleshoot locations with previous or existing service when compared to a new install, so it doesn't make much sense to me.
Here's a cheaper wifi adaptor: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_4
It does have a larger profile, but you'll be saving ~$25.
Will a 120GB SSD be enough? I'd throw in a little bit more and go for a 250GB. Even if you're putting your media/games on your HDD, you'll still find that SSD filling fast.
Also, you should be able to find a cheaper WiFi adaptor (this or this).
Hm, pretty interesting, do you happen to know if this Will work with a RPi?
Dumb question, but is there any noticeable improvement between a 150 and 300 mbps wifi adapter on a 5 mbps network? Also what are some good recommendations for adapters? I have looked up some adapters and have been interested in this one and this one so far, but I keep on reading that it has driver issues on windows 8.1.
I should note that ethernet and powerline connections are out of the question since I'm renting a somewhat old house.
I've used this one for several years and have never had a problem.
Thanks for the advice!
I purchased this from amazon and it worked right after I plugged it into my computer. I didn't have to install any drivers.
I would recommend GIGABYTE Model GC-WB867D-I. I've been using it for almost 5 months now and it has performed so much better than this cheap usb wifi adapter I had for a short time. On the Gigabyte, downloading on 5 GHz, it will be at a constant 30 to 35 Mbps. Whereas on the usb adapter, downloading on 2.4 GHz, it would constantly bounce from 30 Mbps to 5 Mbps. Really annoying when playing online with the ping jumping from 45 ms to 500 ms. My router probably plays a roll in this, but ill be switiching to a AC router soon.
Back to the Gigabyte, the wifi chipset is the Intel AC 7260 that supports 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz and Bluetooth 4.0. The 7260 a mini pcie, which fits in a laptop. You can buy just the Intel AC 7260 itself, but for a couple dollars extra, you get a black mini pcie to pcie adapter of you want to use it on a desktop.
Let's get down to buisness.
First off you need to start with your wireless card. What operating system are you running on? Kali Linux is a great OS to run off a thumb drive (Or Nexus, Or rasperry pi even) and it comes with all the programs you need to get going. The card you have needs to support monitor mode and packet injection in order to crack a pass. I know that the TP-Link TL-WN722N works well for this. Find a site to check the model of your current card and look for monitor mode capabilties and packet injection support.
Next we need to boot into kali linux. Kali has a fantastic amount of programs for you to use and im going to leave it up to you. It's a matter of preference. Also worth noting, in a unix terminal the command
can find the name of your wireless adapter (wlan0, wlan1, ect ect).
You wont have any issues trying to crack a password which is protected by WEP but WPA might give you some difficulty. Also dont forget to slow down and take some time to learn about what you're really doing! Thats the only way to really learn. Hope this helps.
The TP-Link WN722N is working for me. I literally set this up three days ago and it is working awesome.
You can pick up a wifi card or a dongle for much cheaper on Amazon or at Frys. I have used both of these products without issues for the past 3 years.
Wifi usb adapter