What is Reddit's opinion of TrickleStar TS1104 7 Outlet APS, 1080 Joules, 3 ft Cord?

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A trickle star power strip has "always on", "control" and"switched" power outlets. Plug devices that will be turned off after use such as your TV, into the control outlet. Plug devices that need constant power like a router, into the always on plug. Plug devices that should be shut off when the control outlet device turns off like your sound system into the switched outlets. I got this from Xcel energy but I'm sure there are other smart power switches out there these days.trickle star power strip

Similar setup with the X950. I wound up getting a TrickleStar Advanced PowerStrip that senses whether the control device (such as a TV) is either on, off, or in a standby state, and automatically removes and restores supplied power to the switched outlets based on the status of the control device.

Got it on Amazon here. Works like a charm.

If your TV is new enough and has a new enough version of HDMI-CEC, then the Firestick and TiviMate do know when your TV is off. In this case, TiviMate stops streaming the channel automatically when you turn the TV off. There is an option in TiviMate to automatically start the last channel when TV is turned on. Make sure this settings is off. Also, when you are watching a channel, you can easily stop the stream by holding the back button for a few seconds. I have multiple TVs that are working perfectly in this way.

Now if you have an older TV that doesn't support the feature described above, then you're sort of out of luck. You can try two different options:

1- Power your Firestick from the USB service port on the TV. Sometimes these will provide enough power to use the Firestick and, USUALLY, these ports do not provide power when the TV is off so you Firestick would obviously turn off and thus stop streaming.

2- Sometimes the USB service ports do not provide enough power for a Firestick to work properly. You can instead purchase a master control/ switched power strip. This power strip has switched outlets that turn on/off when the TV is turned on/off. You can power your Firestick with one of these switched outlets. Both of the above options mean that every time you power on the TV, you'll have to wait 30-60 seconds for the Firestick to boot. TiviMate does also have an option to auto open the app on boot. FWIW, I also have 1 older TV that is setup using option 2 and is working well for me.

With all this said, I do with TiviMate had a sleep timer function so I wouldn't have to use my TVs sleep timer. But otherwise I love this app!

I'm not familiar with Sonos or the app, but it sounds like this could be accomplished with a Logitech Harmony Hub. You can create an Activity to start the receiver and select the input. Harmony also has Sonos support but to what extent I dunno as I've never used one.

Additionaly, if you're still interested in a 12v Trigger alternative, then you could use a smart outlet that has 1 main control port + x controlled ports. When the device plugged into the main port is turned on/off, the same occurs to the devices in the controlled port. I've been using the TrickleStar 7 Outlet Advanced PowerStrip with my AVR in the main and external amp in the controlled port.

I have a couple of these power strips that do exactly what you are asking.

You can control the threshold of standby power that is coming through the Control device (your PC) to automatically turn on or off the 4 green outlets on the power strip.

nice! in that case something like this should work in theory https://www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=energy+saving+power+strip&qid=1625241165&sr=8-4

load sensing power plug that turns on when the control/master is on

I can't help you with options to power down a Pi since I use a PC, but I can share how I approach shutting down multiple components in my cab. I use a power strip that has a "control" outlet along with another four "switched" outlets. If the item plugged into the control outlet is turned on, then the items in the switched outlets can now turn on as well. Likewise, if I cut power to the control outlet, the switched outlets no longer receive any power at all.

So my pc is in the control outlet, and I have my arcade1up LCD and a set of PC speakers and sub in the switched outlets. My PC is wired to an external power button that will shut down Windows and when I turn that PC on and off, my LCD and speakers also turn on and off. So yeah, if you can figure out the best way to shut down the Pi from someone else on this sub, perhaps you can use it with a strip like I have to have a one-step solution.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_X0n8FbCMKKABE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I know that you cannot fit a power strip behind the TV but maybe there is a way to place this one inside the wall. This is the one that we recommend to our clients:

TrickleStar 7 Outlet Advanced PowerStrip, 1080 Joules, 3ft cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Ci95FbPDCPQB1

Note: get the older, cheaper version. Not the newer one. The newer one is not adjustable. This can be a problem if you have a Sony Bravia with standby issues.

HDMI-CEC (and ARC) is your best option as explained below so if you can get that to work, awesome. Like most advanced HDMI features, cross brand operation can be finicky, so if you can't get it to work, there is a low(er) tech solution that I used for years. An ecosmart power strip can sense if a certain device is powered on, or in standby, and power off the other outlets when that happens. You can often find them pretty cheap. Here's the first example I found: https://www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM

I have used one of these to control TV power with the receiver for years until I bought my new 4k that could correctly communicate with my receiver. I still use it to turn off my sub, and blue ray player so they aren't wasting power on standby.

That's interesting.

I just realized my original comment may have been misunderstood.

The "sense" socket that I described is not actually switched off at any time. The idea is that whatever is plugged into that socket gets continuous unimpeded power so that the IR detection is powered up and you can use the remote, at which point the board's current sensing notices the extra power draw and switches the other sockets on. And to clarify, the TV goes in the sense socket, the backlight power supply goes in one of the switched sockets.

For context this is the cheapest one I found on Amazon, just to identify what one looks like (it labels what I'm calling the "sense socket" the "control socket"): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM

I'm also very curious about what you said about the TV. It sounds like you may have gotten those two buttons to push out of the service manual, and already done that digging. What's the actual error code? That's fascinating and I wonder why it's happening.

Finally, if you do decide the relay solution is the way to go, you may end up appreciating posting to /r/electronics - finding 12V that's only energized when the rest of the TV is on sounds like a small rainy day project :P

I've used this with good results for my power amp. No trigger needed: the act of turning the preamp on or off will toggle the controlled outlets for the power amps.

Not exactly the path you were thinking, but there are green/power saving power strips. One outlet is the master/control and it measures current through that outlet to control if other outlets are off or on. If you have two computers, maybe use a Y cable to connect them both to the master outlet. (If one is a laptop, I am not sure if it will pull enough current to make a difference compared to the power the desktop will pull.)

Random example from Amazon here but I have never used that one.

This strip I'm looking at says this "Features an Adjustable Switching Threshold

An adjustable switch allows the user to easily adjust the threshold of the control device – the power value at which the Advanced PowerStrip switches on or off the switched outlets. If the control device is on and consuming power above the specified threshold, power is supplied to the switched outlets. If the control device is off or in standby mode and consuming less power than the specified threshold amount, supplied power to the switched outlets is then removed."

Is this the sensitivity thing you're referring to? Here's the product link. Thanks for replying.

TrickleStar 7 Outlet Advanced PowerStrip, 1080 Joules, 3ft cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NqM8DbQ5YECGH

Look for a master-controlled power strip. It's a normal power strip except that one outlet is the master, and when its power consumption goes above a threshold then it turns on the other outlets. That way when the TV is off as the master, the other outlets are off. When you press the remote and the TV goes on it uses more power, triggering the strip to turn on the other outlets. They are readily available and work really well. I have one for my entertainment center and one for my desk. https://www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM

"When you turn off your [PC], the power supplied to switched outlets is removed" (The PC is plugged into the 'Master' outlet.)

One example

Does the HDMI cable continue providing power when the monitor is switched off?

If so, one option would be a smart power strip that shuts down other outlets when a control outlet is turned off. I have one of these. When the computer shuts down, it kills power to the bottom 4 outlets, which is where the monitors and speakers are plugged in. This also saves you the trouble of turning off peripherals when shutting down the computer.

I use one of these switching surge protectors. It monitors one of the outlets and keeps the rest off until the 'master' is switched on.

I leave the Roku always on so I don't have to wait for it to boot with it's output to the receiver. I have the TV as the 'master' for the strip. I have the receiver and subwoofer plugged in 'slaved' to the TV. My Sideclicker powers the TV, which then tells the surge protector to power on the other two devices.

The other sideclicker buttons then do:

• volume on the receiver
• channel up and down
• source on the TV (between the receiver and built-in-tuner)
• and A/B switch the audio between the receiver and the TV. tuner.

One power button and the TV turns on, receiver turns on, Roku is ready to rock.

I would highly recommend not doing this. A power sensing strip is cheap, and in the scenario I posted in another comment, would pay for itself very quickly in terms of energy saved.

I'm going to assume that this computer is an HTPC, and that it doesn't need to be powered on unless the TV is also powered on, and that the TV/receiver are used exclusively for the HTPC.

The way I solved this had nothing to do with Linux config at all. I just use a smart power strip. It detects when the HTPC is powered off, and then also powers off the TV and the receiver. And then when I turn the HTPC on, the power strip turns on the TV and receiver. Probably not the type of answer you were looking for, but it's low tech, it works, and it saves energy. Make sure you use hibernate (or power off) instead of sleep.

This isn't the exact power strip I use, but it's an example of what I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505688796&sr=8-3

You can use this power strip. Plug the receiver into the sensing port, and anything plugged into the green outlets will turn on when the receiver turns on. If you can't plug the subwoofer into the same power strip you could basically make a 12v trigger by plugging a 12v DC adapter into the green outlet and splicing it together with the typical 3.5 mm 12v trigger cables.

A power strip with the switch wired to the cabinet. If you want to get fancy, you could get a smart power strip that'd shut everything off when your RPi shuts down.

Get a "power saver" power-strip with a master outlet. Plug the TV into the master outlet. Then when you turn off the tv the strip turns off all the other outlets. There are a bunch of options, here is one that I have no personal experience with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JPDYYSM/

> energy saving power strip

So something like this?

I didn't even know these existed. THANK YOU!

Smart power strip. TV plugs into control outlet. Then when TV is turned on, all devices plugged into the switched outlets will get powered.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t8PxFb0A6F3R7

Here's a good list of headphone related deals - link. The DarkVoice 336SE amplifier or Drop HD-6XX are popular products for $200 each. It's hard to recommend them without knowing what they already have though.

Here's some other smaller ideas that are all speaker related, in no particular order:

• $30 - Smart Power Strip to automatically turn off devices when the master device powers off.
• $35 - Chromecast Audio and an optical cable.
• $110 - Monoprice Speaker stands if they have bookshelf speakers and no stands
• $75 - MiniDSP UMIK-1 measurement microphone if they let to get technical.
• $7 - LightDims to dim bright LEDs.
• $45 - Sound Reproduction by Floyd Toole if you think they would like more technical literature on sound

Sorry I don't and I am not sure what they would be called in europe. I got a couple really cheap thought MassSave. Amazon US has them, just so you have a good description - here is one on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM

This one is from amazon uk - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-Energy-Saving-Smart-Power/dp/B003WK62WU

In England they are called AV power strips or cords (it is currently out of stock) - you might try that as a search term. Good luck.

Here is one with horrible reviews, but I am pointing out they may be called different things: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-ENER017-Master-Energy-Extension/dp/B00GNXY51I

BTW - if you get one from an established manufacturer, they work great.

No need to reinvent the wheel on this one, people have been doing this for over two decades, trusted solutions are out there. I had a full sized cab, and I converted a cheap Arcade1up cab, but I ditched the full size cab down the road in favor of a pedestal style arcade control panel that I can hook up to any display I want (you can actually see it here in this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/transformers/comments/is5ypx/man_cave_mostly_complete/ )

For one, don't use an xbox controller for this, just buy an I-Pac2 or a MiniPac. There are several frontends that people use, all depending on preference and how much time you're willing to spend to set them up. There's Hyperspin which could easily take a day to set up but looks amazing, there's Launchbox (and the premium BigBox mode) that's simpler, but hasv it's own setup wrinkles, but I prefer RetroFE. I had that up and running inside an hour.

Mount your PC mobo to one of the panels in the wood, along with your power supply. Make sure nothing is touching anything metal, this should only be attached to the wood. Use a trickle star outlet like this one to control what powers up when you start the PC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JPDYYSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Parts are easy enough to find on Amazon these days, although if you really want quality parts, you need to shop at Paradise Arcade, Focus Attack, or Groovy Game Gear. I've had good experiences with all three.

I had great luck with this. Looks like it isn't available, but they have other versions with a different number of outlets that I found: Four and 12

One outlet controls 2 or more outlets. Adjustable threshold for sensing power on for the control device.

I use a TrickleStar TS1104 power strip, so when you shut off the ALU, it powers off the BitPixel. It works really well!!!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SZKAPMRV18ABAJ12Z1S0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Or

USB powered option https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SZSVF31/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_PKFTJK43MMCP0F05G63M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Easy solution would be a TrickleStar PowerStrip

It turns on some outlets when current is sensed on the trigger outlet, and has a few always on outlets.

To clarify, I'm not using a Raspberry Pi with these. The Govee Immersion kit is stand-alone. The power on/off mod is simply a 7-outlet advanced power strip I bought from my utility provider like this one.

For a computer monitor, you may want to look elsewhere. The Govee Immersion kit is only for 55"-65" TVs and judging from the thickness of these lightstrips, I don't think they will be easy to fold - they might even break.

Perhaps you should check out the LED bars as an alternative - you could stick one on each side of the monitor. It still utilizes the camera to color match the screen.

take a look at this and i do know of another way but more complicated using ir controlled wall plugs https://www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=advanced+power+strip&qid=1619666607&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_TS3NSXZX6Z0Y1R12X9CZ

It looks like it does indeed act as a surge protector

This one is a little pricey for a power bar but one of the reviews mentions that you can adjust the sensitivity. Again, thank you for your time!

https://www.amazon.ca/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM/

Maybe something like this would be an alternative

I think you would be able to accomplish the on/off easily with a switched-plug power strip and use the scheduling features to control the temp and brightness. https://www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM

you could use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM

The fans would get connected to the switched plugs and the TV would get connected to control port. Whenever the device connected to the control port turns on the, other switched ports are also turned on.

The brand name is Trickle Star https://www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM

Here's the one I have: amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM/

I use this. $13. Has adjustable trigger.

Here is another one, a bit cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=sr_1_5?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1470943572&sr=1-5&keywords=always+on+switched