You can upgrade wifi router with an enterprise grade unifi ac-lr for $90 from Amazon, it'll beat anything consumer grade.
Edit. Link here: Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/
Instead of just upgrading to a better router, try purchasing a Wireless Access Point (not extender). This connects via Ethernet to your existing router and becomes a new antenna for the network that you can place anywhere.
I set up a Ubiquiti Unifi at my parent's place. Their router was in the basement and they needed better speeds on the main floor.
Once I got this set up in the living room (small hole drilled in corner of floor in order for ethernet to reach basement router), the wireless speeds more than doubled.
> Ubiquiti UAC-LR Is this the unit you referenced? https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range-dp-B015PRCBBI/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
Looks like I'll be returning my mesh network routers and they haven't even been delivered yet.
Should I care much about the AX1800 vs AX3000 type ratings if I'm only using a 150mbs ISP? I live alone and I primarily use the internet for browsing, netflix, gaming, Philips Hue lightbulbs, and eventually a video security system of some sort.
So I'm currently looking at this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_B90QN9KSDQTAJXY8WN7Q
I don't want to have to deal with weak signal when I'm outside my condo. And I've had overwhelmingly positive recommendations for all the unifiy APs.
I would just use a few unifi APs scattered about the house vs trying to configure multiple routers to run in AP only mode. plus with unifi APs and a controller installed somewhere, it makes for a single control panel for all of them.
I have one of these and run the controller on docker on my home server. I've heard of people using a rpi 2gb or 4gb version for the controller as well.
The nice thing about the unifi APs is you can run them from a POE switch in the basement or use the included power supplies that the single APs come with all in one location. Then you'd just have a single cable running to the AP on the other end.
Something like this is probably your best bet. I have one in my house and one in my garage and get WiFi everywhere I am on my property: Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US),White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U.iNFbV9GQ6ZK
Yes that's true. For your use case, 25 would probably be fine. Edit: if you're streaming 2 or more devices at once, maybe go with 50 +
I'm an IT consultant and I install a lot of these for work: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=unifi+ap&qid=1597853742&s=electronics&sr=1-4
These provide a much stronger output than the equipment Comcast or ATT generally provides. Unifi makes great wireless equipment but it can be a bit difficult to set up for a non tech person. You use an app on your smartphone to configure it.
You might just be able to ask your internet provider to provide you with a wireless access point that is strong enough for your home, or have a tech come up and set up a separate AP on the other floor of the home.
I turned off wifi then purchased a UAP-AC-LR-US. Used POE and mounted it to the ceiling in the center of the house. The AP is set for 5G only. I then found I had a couple of 2.4Ghz only devices so I turned the 5G off on the network box and set a separate SSID for the network box for those devices only. It greatly improved speed and connectivity across all devices.
/u/Archvile7 Thank you for your response. Greatly appreciated for the time you took to respond. No offense taken. When I say that I am a CIS student, it's my second bachelor's degree as a 30-year-old, getting a networking certificate, and I have some decent networking knowledge from work. I find networking interesting and I could potentially consider it as a career. I digress, so let's get to the actual point of the thread.
I have looked into the Ubiquiti APs as a solution since we used to have them at work. What exactly do you mean I need a 'computer with the controller software installed for the AP's?' As in, I just need a computer to configure them initially? I have a small 5-port switch that is in their wiring closet at the moment, but it does not push PoE.
Do you have any experience setting up an AP in your home or a local business to extend wireless? How did you do it? You didn't really offer much technical explanation in your post. Thank you.
FYI , you shouldn't use "range extenders" , they can really kill and much up wireless bandwidth and cause interference .
If you need better range , you should wire up a Wireless AP to the router with a cat5 cable and put it in a central location .
I love Ubiquiti products , rock solid ! https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543440302&sr=1-5&keywords=ubiquity
IMO - disable the wireless side of your AC1750 and go buy a dedicated AP. Like a unifi LR. They can be had for about $100. Even cheaper if you look around or wait for a sale. Also, if you need to increase your coverage down the road , you can always add more unifi APs.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI
What about a couple Unifi AC-LRs? https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1514990749&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=unifi+exterior+ap One on each house, with the one at the OP's house wired to a switch with additional APs in his house for coverage? Would that work in bridge mode between the two LRs?
Thanks for the feedback. So I can just put one of these behind the tv and I should be set?
I just have to configure it to broadcast the same SID as my current router?
are you actually seeing 170mbps like in a speed test? or is that just the link speed to the access point?
I highly highly recommend the Ubiquiti unifi access points. I have the LR one and the range is incredible with 2.4
It's also worth noting that I configured the device... and then pretty much forgot about it. Never have I had to reset it... or touch it in any way... it just... keeps on chuggin.
Also worth noting that it has commercial hotspot options like accepting payment for temporary access. Limiting speeds based on what was paid. Or giving customers one time access codes that expire a set number of hours after they were used (handy for hotels)
Yea, I really dislike that you can't use your own modem. When I was living in the states, I had this neat Arris Docsis 3.0 modem that was amazing! Izzi locks it down as well. HOWEVER, I have an Ubiquiti access point that I installed because the range was completely useless. All the access point does is generate it's own Wi-Fi network and has a way stronger range than the stock router Izzi provided.
Installation is super easy, too. Simply plug the access point to your modem, install the Ubiquiti software on a PC, load up the software and you'll see the access point through there. Then it's just a matter of giving the Wi-Fi network a name and password. Don't let the "Enterprise" label scare you.
Do you live in Tijuana?
The Ubiquiti APs I see on Amazon include a PoE injector. Presumably I could just turn off PoE on the router and use one adapter per AP?
It seems I don't actually understand what the Cloud Key does at all. :/
I had an alix-based pfSense box for years. It ran well, but it was wireless g and wired interfaces were all fast ethernet. That said, it used very little power and I never had a single problem with it. I really considered upgrading to an apu2 board, but I had an srx220 lying around already and a Ubiquiti AP was less than $100 shipped.
Even though this setup obviously performs much better than the old one, I prefer pfSense for home routers. It's the best balance of power and ease of use I've seen this side of a Palo Alto.
I too have a flawless connection at home on both my SP3 and SP4. The quality of router or AP does indeed make a difference.
For reference, I use a Ubiquiti Edge X router, but the wireless AP is independent of the router and can be used with literally any router - the Ubiquiti UniFi AC LR.
I can't recommend Ubiquiti gear enough.
Edited to include link to the wireless AP.
If you have an RJ45 port available on the 2nd floor that connects back to your router, simply getting a good access point will do the job.
With a larger house like this, I would suggest getting a Ubiquiti AP AC LR. The LR (Long Range) model has a stronger signal and you should be able to get good wifi everywhere.
With this AP, you should be able to get the same speed if you are close to it. Of course, the further away you are, the lower the speed will be, but you should still be able to get at least 50-70 Mbps throughout the house.
For an even better performance, you could get more than one and spread them throughout the house to distribute the wifi more evenly.
You can get it for $108 for the "long range" version. Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR Networks Enterprise Wi-Fi System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_SR-ixbVDY6YZQ
I made my own router using pfsense and it's awesome! You can find a YouTube video I made to show speeds if you are interested. Search "Mechrocktech" in YouTube. I'm only in an apartment, but I was still impressed.
Honestly I would go with this one instead: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LR/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1447434173&sr=1-1&keywords=uap-ac-lr
It's less money and is AC =) You'll love it. Looks like there are prime options available as well.
You need access points.
Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US),White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0BEGMHNAB0PRTSZC5VFJ
Amazon has them for $98.41 if you have a Prime account
Sounds like you have faulty old wireless routers that are interfering with each other. What you need is one new Router/A.P that has massive distance. I would recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536702639&sr=8-1&keywords=ubuiti+ap
It's incredibly easy to setup, and it's range is 5x more than what you need. I personally have it, and I can sit in my car which is 90ft away and download a podcast before going to work. You can also pick up another one, and setup a mesh network. So the connectivity is full bars throughout the building. Hope this helps.
One of your biggest opportunities for saving is going to come from dropping the second AC-Lite. How big is your space? What's the materials it's made from? I've got a pair of AC-Lites, and I occasionally toy with taking one of them out, as they're a solid 50 feet apart on the opposite ends of my house, and they're still too close. One of them (the one closest to the driveway, of course) will give me adequate signal coverage through an exterior wall at the end of my driveway, well over 70 yards away. The only reason I don't is because the other AP is significantly closer to the outdoor areas of the back yard where we want solid signal as well.
So really get a feel for whether you think you'll need that second AP. If you're in anything other than a steel-framed house or a house that's significantly bigger than 2000 square feet, you can probably drop to a single AC-Lite and be fine. If you're right on the edge, switching to a single UAP-AC-LR might take care of the problem for about $60 cheaper.
As for the ER-X, while I liked mine, quite a bit actually, I don't think it's a good fit for a lab IF you have any intentions of doing funky stuff on your WAN connection. I was using it to run a Tinc VPN, which it can do with some modifications, and it did the job just fine. Except that I had to completely redo everything every time there was a software update, and at one point the updates got big enough that I couldn't actually download the update without removing the VPN functionality first. Yes, I could've used OpenVPN or IPSec, but that would've involved changing three different sites over to it along with the ER-X, so I eventually gave up and went with pfSense.
The only other place you could maybe shave a few bucks is the switch, if you didn't need managed capabilities. (For example, this looks a lot like the setup I've been considering for my parents' house, but I wouldn't need a managed switch there.) I probably wouldn't bother unless you KNOW you won't need or want the managed functions.
None specifically, but this one would work well. This is assuming you're looking for something to provide connections to various end-devices like phones, tablets, laptops. If you're looking to do something that is point-to-point between two locations (like from a house to an outbuilding) you'd want a pair of directional bridges like the Ubiquiti Nanostations.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI
If you hurry, there's a listing on Amazon for the unit.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI
Looking atthis ap or this enterprise ap paired with a Poe switch for now and see what happens. If I still struggle I'll look into a point to point.
Add one of these off of one your data ports upstairs, make the SSID and key the same as the other. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI
I eventually replaced all of my wireless gear with these.
No HOA to sic on em? The few times it's nice to have one... If there's anything in violation that Code Enforcement can intervene on, that may be more fruitful from a cop perspective.
I'll preface with I don't exactly know where it tips into /r/illegallifeprotips so you may be better suited there, but here's some of the mild ideas, always be careful to find out what is illegal, I'm not a lawyer, blah blah.
Thinking signups for junk mail, consultations/quotes/estimates coming to the door constantly (but the ethical question comes in if you want to subject some unwitting accomplice to their craziness), send gorilla poop/glitter bombs, etc.
This may be even more effective for the landlord if you happen to know their email, for instance. Inquire on sketchy stuff from Craigslist as your neighbor and send them the way of the landlord so that they're associating an uptick in BS in their life with your shitty neighbor. Better yet, if you know landlord's address set up shit for sale that would attract sketchy people, make sure they show up to the landlord's house because they've been in communication with <neighbor name> and create additional hassle for the landlord. If you don't know their address try to find public records.
If you can find social media for tenant or landlord and get anything compromising to report to an employer (or better yet, call and make complaints against them that would be believable but grounds for reprimand or termination, #canceled). Assuming you can dry up either party's income it could bear consequences in their ability to stay in the home.
How tech savvy are you? You could do stuff that is either paranoia-inducing (WiFi SSID naming that makes them think they're being surveiled) but moreso really irritating, like setting up another dummy router as close to their house as you can and overlapping WiFi channels for instance. That way it'll be unreliable and shitty on their end. Even moreso if you get something more prosumer like Ubiquiti APs (there's even an outdoor one) so you can increase radio power and how far it'll reach. There's lots of WiFi analyzer apps, so if you shut yours off and get close to their home you might be able to discern what channels are in use and most likely to be there's by moving around and testing to narrow it further.
My neighbors have some loud ass windmill decoration that clanks and windchimes so windy nights it's awful, I'd take a barking dog any day. Something noisy and inconvenient, hell take up drums and hit em up when they're crashed out.
Combinations of stuff will maybe be enough to tip the scales, hopefully some idea helps. If you find out it's illegal or there's repercussions, I don't want to see some "how do I fuck over this Redditor who misguided me" post here later 😉
If you can disable WiFi on the current router I would recommend the Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR they can be had for ~$100. They are a WiFi Access Point only. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/
If you want a combo unit the best option in the price range is the Archer A7. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/
Yes
Yes, No WiFi has nothing to do with the modem.
Those Unify standalone APs don't require a controller, just the unify app for setup and firmware upgrades. If you can get your phone onto the subnet with the AP, you're good.
AP has ssh as well, if you prefer to manage it that way.
We have a lot of mobile infra for my work and I have zero bad things to say about them. Especially for the money.
Edit: unify ap ac long range on Amazon for around 100 bucks, last I looked.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.easyunifi
>EDIT: oh, and turn off the Wi-Fi on the comcast box so it doesn't conflict.
Hey /u/Archvile7, thanks again for the prompt and in depth response. I gave you a well deserved upvote. You clearly have a lot of experience and a lot of insight into the field. I received the floor plan from the owner and I just purchased the Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-LR-US based on your recommendation and the rave reviews it has received. I just needed that little push from someone who has some skin in the game. You make some really good points in regards to troubleshooting down the road. Ultimately, I think that I wanted to do it for experience and they want to have me try it. As the saying goes, it's good to know someone in IT... well that's not really a saying, but you get what I mean.
Thanks for sharing your personal experience with network setups. This shop does in fact run a large dryer used to dry screen printed clothing, so I will avoid those areas due to high temperatures. I have a location already in mind to securely install the AP to a joist. As stated before, the Ethernet cables are already run throughout from the previous tenants, so I theoretically would only have to terminate a few cables.
I may start with the single AP and see how that performs for them. I was considering a guest VLAN for them, but let's keep that on the back burner for now. From what I've been reading on Amazon, users have installed the Ubiquiti software controller on a Raspberry Pi. Again, I may or may not go down that road, but it could be an inexpensive way of getting more control remotely. I will most definitely set up the SSID and password the same to ensure easy handoff. They don't have wireless printers or any of that. Very simple network layout so far. I plugged three of their computers to an Ethernet that is plugged into a 5-port switch.
This may be optimistic thinking, but I am hoping that the Ubiquiti AP will offer strong enough coverage so that I can turn off the WiFi on the Xfinity gateway like you said. The Xfinity gateway is located near their office, which they probably would continue to want WiFi. This was the 'bridge mode' question that I had. If the signal isn't quite strong enough coming from the AP in the warehouse, I may leave the Xfinity gateway running WiFi, or I will simply have them purchase a second AP for the office area.
Again, I really appreciate the deep analysis and sharing your personal experiences with me. I will continue to update this thread for future researchers. I think that this will come in handy for many who are genuinely interested in getting their hands dirty.
Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/
$99 enterprise wifi ap? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users. I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "UAP"
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
I noticed in this guide that it says the AP required UniFi controller 4.7 or higher. Is the guide just outdated? This is the AP I'm looking at.
No possibility of running some CAT 5e ethernet cable through a drop ceiling or anything? Just gotta be able to reach a window or outside the main house where you can see the guest house. You would have an amazing connection, almost like wired.
One option is upgrading your access point. I've never really liked the WiFi units that come from your ISP. In general, anything you buy from Best Buy isn't awesome either. Linksys, etc are crazy expensive for a product that does not perform well. I blame this on the fact they combine 3 devices into one - router, switch, and access point. All these I just mentioned aren't great in terms of reliability or range. I've had great success with Ubiquiti's UAPs. Like this one. Ideally you get that as close to your guest house as possible. If not, might be good enough to just turn the WiFi on your Xfinity unit off and just use the UAP, but that's hard to guesstimate without knowing your house and still, you only know till you try.
Of course, generally the higher up the access point, the better. So, not basement, but main floor or second floor. Closer always better. Don't put it on a metal table, or have a filing cabinet in the way. Wrecks the signal.
Not sure if this is appropriate for your situation, but I am also curious about if Ubiquiti UniFi Mesh is appropriate. This is new to me, and if anyone reading the comments knows, I'd love to know more about this tech. Is it basically a repeater system? WDS?
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI this works well if you can run Ethernet. LR is for Long-Range. These require PoE injectors (included) unless you have one of their PoE switches (from what I've read)
Your router is simply the point where your local network is translated out to other networks (in this case the internet). Since you want to be on the same local network as everything else in the house, what you're looking for is NOT a second router. I believe you are falling prey to incorrect terminology here. What you want (assuming you want a wireless connection) is to have a WAP (Wireless Access Point) to provide a wifi signal where you need it. Here's how that works. From your router, you use one of your spare ports to run a cable to the area you want a better wireless signal, you then plug said cable into a wireless access point and it will provide wireless connectivity in that area depending on the range and specifications of the WAP.
Now, there ARE ways to extend wifi range and use a second, or third WAP without running a cable to it as some of the other gentlemen mentioned. This can be done if your router (the one going to your provider/ISP) ALSO has wireless capabilities. In that case, a remote WAP could do something called bridging the connection. Basically you could use the second WAP to receive the wireless signal of the router, and extend it as a second hop. This does bring problems though since without the WAP being hard wired, you're relying on the wireless signal from the router to the WAP, and from the WAP to your PC. There's a lot more that goes into doing wireless bridging than if you simply cabled the WAP instead. For example, you need to carefully place the WAP so it's close enough to the router to receive a strong-ish signal, but you ALSO need the WAP to be close enough to the low signal area to provide you with a better signal.
As you can see, the better of the two options is simply to run a cable from your router to the WAP where you need your wireless signal. WAPs can be pretty cheap, easily under 100 bucks. I personally use a UniFi AC Pro AP for my wireless access point since my router doesn't have WiFi, however for your case I think a longer range solution like the UniFi AC LR AP would be better. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI There are other brands out there too, but this one is nice because it has free software you can use to see who is connected to the WAP, what the signal strength for them is, and how much (if any) noise there is on the frequencies that the WiFi signal is going over. Since you life on a farm house, there should be little to no RF(Radio frequency) noise, so the signal should be nice and strong.
Hope this helps!
It really depends on the size of the house and what the walls are made out of. My parents house isn't that big but it's old and the walls are plaster and have chicken wire in between them. I needed 3 APs to cover the house and networks speeds were iffy on the remote APs compared to the main one. This was a 802.11n network though.
I don't know where the bottleneck is on your network exactly so I'd troubleshoot starting with the least expensive options first to determine where it is before you go and spend lots of money.
$15 If it's an option, buy a cheap switch and move the NAS to room B as I mentioned above and see if that improves performance.
$35 Buy a Chromecast and see if it performs any better than the Roku Stick.
$80-200 Buy a Roku 3/4 or Nvidia Shield TV. Regular settop box might get better receptions than a streaming stick.
$200 Buy 2x Ubiquit UAC-AC-LR Wireless Access Points. These are considered the best APs on the market and these are the long range versions. I personally love these things
$370 Buy THIS MONSTROSITY and pray the signal reaches all corners of your home.
Yeah, this product springs to mind, and it tends to be the most recommended wifi brand on this sub (although I don't have one.. yet).
Or the Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR which is much more expensive
Info sheet says 183m for each of them. But I don't know their actual performance at long range.
Thinking about something like this Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR Do you see a need for a PoE switch if the only thing I'd be running off of it was this Ubiquiti AP? Looks like the AP comes with some kind of power converter so that I wouldn't necessarily need a POE switch to run it off of. No other PoE devices on the network. But this will probably be the switch that lasts us another 10 years so if there's some functionality that we might use somewhere down the line it would be worth grabbing now.
Just a HUGE price difference between the two. Right now we have a 3Com 2948-SFP switch back there and I'm looking at something like this HP Procurve 2620 to replace it. I also have a friend who does networking who says I should be looking at Cisco switches like this Small Business 200 one as well, but I don't know the pros and cons (except that I could ask him for setup help I guess!)
But I'm also a bit worried as it seems like the damaged switch we have now is a Layer 2 switch and it sounds like Layer 3 switches require a lot more setup.
I'm reading up a lot about it and I'm not afraid to tackle more complicated set up if it can get us better functionality or make life easier down the line for me. I'm just all alone here and I inherited all this set up already and just had to maintain it, so I'm kind of gun shy about ordering thousands worth of equipment I've never worked with and not being able to get it to work properly!
Do power-over-ethernet (PoE) wireless access points (WAPs) to ensure you have rock solid high-speed wifi access. That will require ethernet wiring to the places where you put the WAPs. Most PoE WAPs contain a power injector, so you won't need to buy a PoE switch. Ubiquiti UniFi makes a good product for this use.
Use wired ethernet for devices that don't move, like desktop PCs, home servers, big, wall-mounted Smart TVs, etc. Use Wifi for things that might move, like laptops, phones, tablets, small Smart TVs, etc. If you make the wifi very good (with those WAPs I talked about) then you won't be hurting yourself by using Wifi when it's appropriate.
I do not like wifi repeaters. They add latency to your connection and frequency congestion. Do not use them. If you strategically place the WAPs, you won't have to care where the router is. My router's wifi is disabled, as all wireless traffic runs through my WAPs, which are installed in the attic on either end of the house. My house is a long ranch/rambler style. In the worst signal area (the middle where I'm farthest from each WAP) I get a consistent >50 mbps down and 20 - 30 mbps up over the internet. That's more than sufficient for nearly anything and I regularly use it to stream 1080p video, download games on Steam, etc. And that's in the very worst part of my house. I can easily get 200 mbps if I get nearer to an access point.
EDIT: I recommend these WAPs:
I have the LITE version, but prices have come down and now the LR is the same price I paid for the LITE. 400 - 600 ft of functional range is more than most people need.
120ft in metres = 36.576 according to google (just for anyone else curious)
Thank you so much for checking! That does sound really good.
I found this (amazon) Ubiquiti Networks UniFi AC LR AP Enterprise Wi-Fi System (UAP-AC-LR) at 170$USD. I'm not familiar with price ranges for Ubiquiti stuff, so can anyone tell me if thats a good buy? I'm wondering if I buy it how would I supply the PoE to it without having to spend a lot more money on a PoE switch.
For comparisons sake I am using A Raspberry Pi as a local ethernet connect client on a Netgear D6300 running iperf for 100 seconds. Distance is approx 15-20m through one story and roughly 1-2 walls in a direct line (theres a wall and the floor). Wireless device is late 2008 Macbook pro 802.11n @ 5Ghz network.
[ ID] Interval Transfer Bandwidth [ 5] 0.0-100.0 sec 387 MBytes 32.5 Mbits/sec
Something like this:
Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JelpDbJDW4K8E
They don't work well. Neither do powerline adapters.
I agree with the consensus. The ultimate answer is to wire a separate wireless access point at the other end of the house. Another router can serve as a wireless access point but if you need to buy one, a dedicated access point is best and can be had for the price of a cheap router.
This is a prosumer device and may not be quite as simple to setup as something bought off the shelf at BestBuy.
​