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UGREEN SATA to USB 3.0 Adapter Cable for 3.5 2.5 Inch SSD HDD SATA III Hard Drive Disk Converter Support UASP Compatible with Samsung Seagate WD Hitachi Toshiba with 12V Power Adapter?
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Yes, it needs the power supply. I'm not sure where you are located but this is a newer version of an adapter I have owned and used for many years. I have the USB 2 version, but it works very well.
He’s right, installing an SSD (from an HDD) will provide you with extremely noticeable speed improvements. I would suggest doing a fresh install of MacOS on the SSD using a USB installer (set this up before the upgrade) and then using an HDD to USB adapter to transfer personal files from the old disk. They’re dirt cheap on Amazon. I recommend this one - note: it has an external power source, not bus-powered - this is what you want). Of course, you should also be backing up so you can also use your backup disk. If your data doesn’t exist in a min of 2 places, it doesn’t exist at all. Redundancy people!
Pull the hard drive, use something like this to read the hard drive from another computer, find the user directory, take ownership of it, copy it onto the other computer. Put hard drive back in the computer.
If the CD player uses SATA connections, a powered USB to SATA adapter like this would work. However, for a few dollars more, you could buy a USB DVD player that would also play CDs.
That's a standard 3.5" SATA hard drive. You'll need a SATA to USB adapter like this one. Make sure you get one that comes with an external power supply.
UGREEN SATA to USB 3.0 Adapter Cable for 3.5 2.5 Inch SSD HDD SATA III Hard Drive Disk Converter Support UASP Compatible with Samsung Seagate WD Hitachi Toshiba with 12V Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_49XJNHCVD017RDN7E3CC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Could something like this works?
I’m trying to build my first home server. I got some scraps from my work place but I’m not sure on how to delete data from this type of HD and what connections or tools that I need.
UGREEN SATA to USB 3.0 Adapter Cable for 3.5 2.5 Inch SSD HDD SATA III Hard Drive Disk Converter Support UASP Compatible with Samsung Seagate WD Hitachi Toshiba with 12V Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_49XJNHCVD017RDN7E3CC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Could something like this works?
I’m trying to build my first home server. I got some scraps from my work place but I’m not sure on how to delete data from this type of HD and what connections or tools that I need.
Do you mean something line thus? The is for this suggestion !
UGREEN SATA to USB 3.0 Adapter Cable for 3.5 2.5 Inch SSD HDD SATA III Hard Drive Disk Converter Support UASP Compatible with Samsung Seagate WD Hitachi Toshiba with 12V Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_05X04ASR52E7SR5P5GK9
So I actually got this and I'm just waiting for it, and the external PSU was just a solution while waiting for it to come in. If I'm just using it to play games (single player ones too which don't demand fast load speeds) or storing files on it, should I expect similar performance as if it was connected directly to the motherboard via SATA?
UGREEN SATA to USB 3.0 Adapter Cable for 3.5 2.5 Inch SSD HDD SATA III Hard Drive Disk Converter Support UASP Compatible with Samsung Seagate WD Hitachi Toshiba with 12V Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S2SBR718WQSJABET3C2R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This would work for either.
You're most likely not giving the drive enough power. USB power alone will not be enough for any 3.5" drive and for a large number of 2.5" drives as well. Get an adapter with an external power brick like this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU or connect the drives internally in the PC if possible.
UGREEN SATA to USB 3.0 Adapter Cable for 3.5 2.5 Inch SSD HDD SATA III Hard Drive Disk Converter Support UASP Compatible with Samsung Seagate WD Hitachi Toshiba with 12V Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DRJ14ETBKH7RSRHHYTKV
Yes, that is supported, you need a SATA to USB3 adapter. Probably with power supply.
The USB-A ports support a speed up to 5GB, USB-C up to 10GB. Both are fast enough for backup purpose.
For the installer you need a partition of 14GB, for the Time Machine the size depends on the size of your data. (Operating system is not backed up to Time Machine) I read the Netgear link and I notice that Time Machine functionality is offered over SMB.
I have tried to set that up and I could not get that to work, so I suggest that you verify first that this functions without problems. My experience is that Time Machine networked over AFS is more reliable than over SMB.
Have you tried a USB adapter to use it as an external drive? https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=usb+sata+adapter&qid=1606374587&sprefix=USB+sa&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUjc0MzVRU0...
Your assumptions about the drive in question being a 3.5" and the laptop only having USB 2.0 are spot on. Do you think this adapter I'm leaning towards is sufficient?
I should also probably mention that this was a 5400rpm drive acting as NAS, and it took so long to spin up (close to 10s iirc) that my first (LAN) ftp attempt to it would always time out if it wasn't already spun up. Would that be a problem for such adapters, or would I be more likely to just experience a similar first-time-failure-second time-success phenomenon?
edit: Also thanks for bringing up the power requirements because I wouldn't have thought about it otherwise.
Here.
This is the one I recommend. I’ve bought literally, every adapter on Amazon and this was the best.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU
If it’s a 2.5 inch HDD you can get by with one of the adapters that doesn’t have wall power, but that one should work regardless.
Absolutely not. We did a bulk purchase of them for work, so I bought one of every USB-SATA kit I could fine off Amazon. I wanted to make sure the one we bough a lot of didn’t suck. Most are garbage. The one that worked the best was made by Ugreen. I expected Sabrent or Iogear to work better, but the Ugreen was the champ.
UGREEN SATA to USB 3.0 Adapter Cable for 3.5/2.5 Inch SSD HDD SATA III Hard Drive Disk Converter Support UASP Compatible with Samsung Seagate WD SanDisk Hitachi Toshiba, with 12V Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yUwOEbKPCV01R
It’s entirely possible the disk is bad. You can return it to amazon and get a replacement; but as others suggested it would be good to attach I it to the pc to use WD tools to run diagnostics.
If you don’t have usb to Sata bridge — buy one, something like this (make sure it’s powered) https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/
It’s extremely useful to have one around the house. When your drives fail down the road (note how I sat “when”, not “if”) you would need to get diagnostic code using WD tools to request warranty replacement.
It is also possible that the ram in your nas is bad. You can run memory test via Synology Assistant.
UGREEN SATA to USB Cable USB 3.0 to Hard Drive Adapter Converter for 2.5 3.5 Inch Hard Drive Disk HDD SATA III and SSD Support UASP with 12V 2A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1GM2DbMZ5J5W4 This the one I currently use for data extraction. It works amazing. Best $18 I've spent. A specialist is going to be very expensive especially for data recovery. Either way whichever route you choose. Best of luck.
Thanks. Unfortunately, the display is dead in the old iMac, so I can’t configure anything on it. I’ve read about SATA to USB. Do you know if this will work? I don’t know the steps to transfer data, but I’m sure it’s easy to find online.
If I connect an external monitor via rear ports on the old iMac, do you know if it will plug and play or if I will need the old iMac display active?
Click on "this" in his post.
​
I was thinking more along the lines of this though. Should be able to connect that and start pulling stuff, provided the drive is not dead. If you have a spare desktop with SATA connections you could always throw it in there and grab what you want off of it as well. Granted, all of these options are assuming the drive is still in functioning order.
This looks like it should do the trick, thanks for the heads up. Do you think a windows format (not the quick format but the full) will be sufficient to wipe all of my data from the drive?
Instead of simply downvoting your post or comments, I'm going to answer your question.
You will need a SATA to USB adapter with a separate power source. They come in packages together for the exact purpose you are needing them for. You can usually find them on Amazon.com if you're in the USA: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Drive-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1549736580&sr=1-5&keywords=sata+to+usb
Or if you are in Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Converter-Adapter-2-5-3-5Inch-Supports/dp/B016JTH8FA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549736658&sr=8-5&keywords=sata+to+usb
Or if you are in the UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Adapter-Drive-Supported-Converter/dp/B01GIZSC9G/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549736706&sr=8-6&keywords=sata+to+usb
You will need the separate power adapter because the hard drive you have is a full size 3.5" hard drive and requires more power than a USB port can provide.
You should use your other laptop and a flash drive or something to create a windows 10 installer boot device and use that to install windows 10 on your new SSD
There is no guarantee you can save the data, but there are programs like photorec which you also boot on a flash drive that can try to transfer data from your old broken drive to your new SSD. You'll need both drives plugged in at the same time though and that could be trouble for a laptop. You may need a full sized desktop or to buy a SATA to USB adapter if a desktop isn't an option.
There are a lot of options for data recovery, however most of them are quite expensive. The free options may or may not work for you.
If you can't get it to work, you might try this as well
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU
It would help to know what your end goal is here. Do you want to do a home theater capable of Dolby Atmos audio? Why do you want to use a MiniDSP 88a? Why can't you use an AVR?
> Another issue is that I live in a rural area, my internet is shit and can’t stream 4K content. So I was planning on subscribing to a rental service and ripping the blue rays to a drive. What’s the best way to do that?
Get a "UHD Friendly" SATA Blu-ray drive. More details on what that is:
https://forum.makemkv.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19634
Example of a compatible drive:
https://www.newegg.com/lg-wh16ns40-internal-blu-ray-burner/p/N82E16827136269
If you cannot install a 5.25" SATA optical drive in your computer, buy a SATA-to-USB powered adaptor:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/
Use MakeMKV to rip DVDs, Blu-rays, and UHD Blu-rays to make .mkv video files:
https://www.makemkv.com/download/
MakeMKV requires a license for ripping Blu-rays. You can get the current license key from their forum posts:
https://forum.makemkv.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1053
> But the Apple TV 4K only has a hdmi output
As I already said, the Apple TV 4K is a less than ideal solution for playing Blu-ray rips. If that is your primary use case, the Nvidia Shield Pro is the better option.
The WD1005FBYZ is a hard drive (HDD), not an SSD. If you want to plug it into a USB port, you need a SATA to USB adapter with an external 12v power brick like this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU
If you think it is only going to be SATA drives used, get this from Amazon:
If you are going to use it and want the most flexibility, this is the answer:
that wont work for a full HDD. You need a SATA-USB adapter with a separate power supply that plugs into the wall.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/
From my basic understanding and explained in detail here: https://www.easeus.com/knowledge-center/what-does-ssd-tbw-mean.html
In a very simple nutshell, SSDs have a finite number of writes specified in the firmware, which is continually counting down with each write/erase to your drive* and this is expressed as a percentage of health or remaining life.
When you write to an SSD, it moves the data around to open blocks/cells to even out the wear amongst all blocks/cells.
So a drive that you are continually writing/erasing data to, will wear down quicker than a drive that has data that's mostly reads. During the height of the Chia blockchain craze, SSDs would be worn out in months, versus the years they were rated for under typical use.
Time isn't the measure of health because reads don't, or have very small wear leveling activity.
For example, my cheap 120GB SSD has nearly 2 years of time in use, but less then 13K writes and is still at 100%
As for the SATA to USB adapter, I'm referring to this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU . An external adapter that allows you to connect your drive externally to a USB port. So an external drive without the enclosure.
Since everything, the SATA and power connection is completely outside your PC case, it helps in determining whether your internal power connector, SATA cable or SATA port may be faulty.
It's also useful for backups because your primary backup** should always be external. This minimizes the chance of a local catastrophe; fire, flood, hurricane/tornado, power surge, virus/ransomware, theft will take out both your primary and backup at the same time.
**You should also have a second backup, ideally kept offsite physically or cloud to further minimize the chance of a local catastrophe taking out both your primary and backup drive, optical discs, tape.
For 2.5/3.5 SATA, I've got a simple adapter - nice that it can become a 2.5-only portable unit if I'm not at my desk.
For NVMe, I've got another simple adapter - haven't needed this one quite as much, but it's useful in a pinch.
I haven't yet had a need to access m.2 SATA, but I'd probably lean more towards a 2.5" adapter plugged into my other USB adapter - that way I had it on hand in case I needed it in a system.
half are like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU
half are these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097PXGF68
I like the second ones better but they don't come with power supply.
You can buy something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYU0EAU/ for each drive and get something like https://www.etsy.com/listing/1085108593/8-bay-hard-drive-rack-holder-cage-case to hold them
This is one I've used and been happy with...
Note that this includes the 12V power adapter required for connecting 3.5" desktop SATA drives, like u/hanst3r described. This one only works for SATA, if you want one that also works for older IDE drives, then you need something like this...
Installer here! Thanks upfront for the unintended lead to imgbb; much better than imgur.
Are you able to pull the drive from the device? I know many people can use tech very well, but when it comes to taking them physically apart, that can be an issue. If you can, I'd connect it to another (hopefully Linux) PC via this cable (I own 3 of them). That way you can treat it like you would with/as any external drive.
If you attempt a clone and the driver falters in the middle you'll lose everything; been there done that. It's risky. That way you can install a new faster SSD in whatever unit this belongs to, then install a fresh copy of the newly released L-Mint 20.3.
When I build new systems I use a small capacity but fast M.2 or SDD (depending on the slot's availed) for the OS, and then use external for all storage. E.g. mine is a 128 GB M.2 (only the 2 installer-created partitions) and my external storage is a 5TB HDD (no partitions). Systems run faster that way. Anything goes wrong, be it a physical problem likes yours, or an infection, I can unplug my 5TB, and reinstall the OS, overwriting everything on the M.2 (even ransomware). No data lost that way. And, they're inexpensive to replace.
I’ve ordered this
But it didn’t fit
Don't ask me why Microsoft installation is such a huge PITA, but I have seen multiple times where people install Windows on a shiny new SSD, and part of the installation ends up on the old HDD, and they NEVER know, until one day they replace the old HDD, and their PC wont boot. The windows installation can be a finicky little prick, so I have always found that the safest way to do any install is with only the OS drive (M.2 SSD for you) first.
Then you can plug in your HDD after and set it as a secondary drive.
HOWEVER, i would strongly recommend getting this:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/
After you finish installing windows, plug in your HDD via USB, move all your critical data to the SSD, then format the HDD, removing all the old partitions from it in the process, BEFORE plugging it back into the system.
I know this all sounds like a lot, but you will save yourself SO many headaches in the future.
You can get some of these: UGREEN SATA to USB 3.0 Adapter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have 5 of them, they are connected via USB adapter and are powered via 12v rail on the PSU. This is what started the whole Chia thing for me, as I had them laying around, collecting dust.
Or the cheaper, less pretty option: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0EAU/
Just gotta be a little more careful, as it's not to hard to break the sata port on the drive if you flex the connector too far.
This is all you need: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ You should get one with an external power supply like this to make sure the HDDs get enough power. I'm assuming all drives are SATA like the image your gave. 😎
First thing I would recommend doing is testing that your drives are okay. A simple powered adapter like this should work:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/
Since you are already having problems with the new PSU, return it.
I recommend getting Seasonic. That is a matter of opinion but I have had great luck with them: https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-GX-650-Full-Modular-Application-SSR-650FX/dp/B077J9QTDR/
Also, if you plan to upgrade to a 3070 or 3080 GPU, consider a higher wattage model, like 750 or 850.
Thanks for the advice!
Do you think this will work?
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/
You can get an external adapter to test if it works over USB:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/
Another thing you can do, is check the model of the drive, and see if the manufacture has any unique or specific drivers or firmware for it.
Deal link: Amazon
Coupon code: UGREENSA
^^Note: ^^Get ^^instantly ^^notified ^^on ^^Telegram ^^when ^^there ^^is ^^a ^^new ^^deal ^^in ^^"Build ^^A ^^PC" ^^category. ^^Join ^^our ^(Telegram channel)
Gave me a thought.
Is the drive external or internal, 3.5" or 2.5"?
If it's a 3.5" external, the power supply or USB interface may be bad. Shucking it and connecting it directly as recommended may solve the issue. If you can't/don't want to install it directly, you can use a SATA to USB adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=sata+to+usb&qid=1600578892&sr=8-10
If it's a USB portable it's possible the drive isn't getting enough power from the USB port. Is the clicking constant or does the drive spin up, then spin down.
If it's USB 3.0, you can tell by looking at the connector you plug into the computer. If the plastic is light blue, it's USB 3.0 and must be plugged into a USB 3.0 port, where the plastic is also light blue.
You can also use a Y-Adapter like this amazon.com/Micro-B-External-Seagate-Toshiba-Enclosure/dp/B005M0ICG2/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb+y+cable&qid=1600579106&sr=8-3 to use the give the drive additional power. If possible, don't connect to ports next to each other as they may share the same USB bridge and therefore the same power source.
If the drive is a WD portable. Don't try to open it as the USB interface is likely soldered directly to the drive and can't be easily removed.
Looks like he's using one of these
You dont need Best Buy, they will do nothing or steal your files and charge you that insane price. This is all you need, assuming your WD Green is the sata version:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/
I'm not sure how it would be done in the context of the Pine64 dedicated case, but with my Pi 3 I use one of these for my drives that are too power hungry to be powered purely from USB:
This is the one I recommend. I’ve bought literally, every adapter on Amazon and this was the best.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU
Part of the problem is that it will not be easy to simply move the OS, or even reinstall on the smaller drive while only removing the OS from the current drive. It has a lot to do with boot sectors/managers.
If you want to guarantee everything will work you will need to:
1) Backup all critical files to an external USB drive
2) Unplug the current larger drive
3) Reinstall Windows on the new smaller drive
4) Plug the larger drive into your PC via an external USB adapter (https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Cable-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/)
5) Format the larger drive and delete any partitions off the larger drive in Disk Management or using Disk Part (https://www.thewindowsclub.com/delete-volume-drive-partition-windows-10)
6) Plug the larger drive back into your PC internally, format and partition it, you can now use it as a secondary drive to install programs on or save data to, or both.
Okay, it is possible to save your games, but difficult, and you may not want to spend the money, but its up to you. This all depends on which drive the games are on, and how they are installed.
As an example, if were were talking about Steam games, you can basically copy the entire steamapps folder off to another PC. You would need to plug the hard drive into another PC with a USB adapter:
WD Black: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYU0EAU
Samsung EVO: https://www.amazon.com/Enclosure-Type-C-Adapter-Reader-Support/dp/B07VVNHZHH/
You can also use the USB adapters to format the drives and remove any partitions before reinstalling them in your system. If the other PC does not have enough space, you would need a separate external drive with enough space to copy the games. You also need to do this on a PC other than the one that is not working.
Each game launcher is different and each one will have a different procedure to copy the game files and restore them properly.
The most important thing to remember is when reinstalling windows, have ONLY the Samsung plugged in.
> https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Drive-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU
What are some keywords I need to know to buy an alternative? is it 2.5''?
Are you looking to transfer personal files or apps?
If files https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Drive-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ will work fine to read the drive.
It apps it gets considerably more complicated.
Nope, you need one with a power brick, like this one.https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Cable-Converter-Supports/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521418214&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+to+sata+12v
Just read your message. This should do the trick. http://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Converter-Adapter-BLU-RAY-DVD-ROM/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1442443576&sr=8-2&keywords=sata+12v
cheers
I'd rather get this one as it also includes the SATA power adapter, but OP would also need a spare outlet, so maybe buy an outlet adapter 2 in 1.
If you want to see what is on them, you could buy a USB to SATA adapter (I'm assuming they are SATA drives). Make sure you get one that also provides power to the drive, again I'm assuming these are 3.5 inch desktop drives, and not the smaller 2.5 inch notebook drives that can be powered from USB. This would allow you to see what is on the drive, and copy any data before your format the drive.
Here is an example of what I am talking about: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Drive-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549763289&sr=1-3&keywords=3.5+sata+hard+drive+to+usb+cable
As far as wiping them, just use the Windows format command. There is also free software utilities such as Crystal disk that can test your drive for errors. Formatting might fix it, by moving bad sectors to areas where you can't use them. Since they are old disks, and if they have a lot of errors you might not want to keep using them, as they might only get worse, and new drives are pretty cheap now. Pretty much depends on how important the data is to you and how much you want to mess with the drives versus buying a new drive. To me any increase in chance of losing data makes me want to stop using the drive at all.
its probably all powered wrong bro, that board probably is wired to supply enough juice for 3.5" drives probably too much for 2.5".
buy yourself a kit and save the headache https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Drive-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B00MYU0EAU/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542724376&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=usb+sata+adapter&psc=1
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users. I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "one"
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
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