What is Reddit's opinion of Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish (Fox Chapel Publishing) Practical & Comprehensive with Over 300 Color Photos and 40 Reference Tables & Troubleshooting Guides?

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I’d say gift certificate to a woodworking store.

Or rubber gloves, sandpaper, mineral spirits, or this

Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish (Fox Chapel Publishing) Practical & Comprehensive with Over 300 Color Photos and 40 Reference Tables & Troubleshooting Guides https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565235665/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XKCPK2KDWBBJV5FNE8TB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Just in case you don't see my reply to someone else the finish on one side only is a myth that was debunked in this book and well we have a fuck load of old furniture that is only finish on one side and it's still doing just fine.

Understanding Wood Finishing https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1565235665/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nothing will make you better at finishing than experience, but the book sure does help.

If you’re doing it as a non serious hobby but do do it, the book will help, but I wouldn’t cover to cover read it, just hit the sections that cover what you use.

Excellent advice! Also, let me recommend Bob Flexner's book, "Understanding Wood Finishing". I thought this was an excellent reference that clears up a lot of the marketing nonsense and general misunderstandings that have confused the subject for so long.

Finishing is the most controversial topic in woodworking. Ask ten woodworkers for advice and you'll get a dozen answers.

If you want a deep dive and get really nerdy, this book is great: Understanding Wood Finishing

> Don’t follow the other advice, if you seal one side seal the opposing as well. Dimensional stability is your friend, and getting there only takes some finishing

Are you arguing with Bob Flexner?

Finishing wood does not ensure dimensional stability of solid wood. In fact, the finish has zero effect on it, and the wood will expand and shrink seasonally to the same degree with or without the finish.

Don’t stain pine! The number one way to ruin a pine project is to stain it. Pine sapwood is far more absorbing than its heartwood thereby creating a negative affect when staining. In addition, it is often very invisibly uneven in it hardness making the results splotchy. Pine will darken (a lot) naturally over time but if you insist on making it darker right away, use a glaze or shellac. I have seen good results with starting with a conditioner and then adding coats of glaze or thinned paint. Just know that this approach will darken the wood while hiding the wood grain from view a little. Once you get the color right, there is an even bigger conversation about the topcoat. I would highly recommend getting this book and taking the time to learn some good techniques. https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=wood+finishing&qid=1599743070&sr=8-4

Good luck

Finishing is not rocket science but it can get finicky very fast. Add to that the fact that the actual wood you are staining can influence the final look a lot and it only adds to disappointments.

Usually, people present their plans as to what and for what purpose and that encourages others to offer their solutions. some of the solutions won't be that great but other you may fined useful.

The quickest info (not sure about the graphic part) I am aware of is Understanding Wood Finishing and other companion books by the same author.

If you REALLY want to learn all there is to know I highly recommend Bob Flexner's book it's really excellent and not too expensive.

One of my projects this spring is to re-finish a few of my early projects that I slacked on. Picked up Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner to get ready.

Flexner's book is the go-to that I know of - https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665

Understanding Wood Finishing - Bob Flexner Amazon

A Cabinetmaker's Notebook - James Krenov Amazon

The Complete Book Of Woodwork - Charles Hayward Archive.org

The gentleman and cabinet-maker's director - Thomas Chippendale Archive.org

I have a bibliography of books on archive.org you're welcome to browse Link

Every woodworker imho would benefit from having this book. https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=understanding+wood+finishing+bob+flexner&qid=1659309580&sprefix=understanding+wood+fini%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-4

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What kind of price range?

That's a myth that was debunked in this book https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665 . The reason this happened is that the pieces that are glued on perpendicular to the grain of the top restricted the wood from expanding and contracting and it's the only reason this happened.

dont want to be contrarian, but afik, it is only drying oil finishes, and specifically anything with linseed oil which will combust, and pretty much only on rags. here is a link to an article by Bob Flexnor who has forgotten more about finishes than pretty much anyone, his Understanding Wood Finishing is pretty much the first and last word on finishes of all types.

dont get me wrong, better to be safe than sorry, so any rag used with an oil based product of any kind should be dried flat, but not everything needs the can of water treatment...

Best $ you will spend in your shop... https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665

If that’s the case, here is the Bible for wood finishing

Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565235665/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P25XM0RHWVP9AQXAZ7K7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

So what you are basically asking is way beyond even long answers. I suggest this.

1. Link the product
2. Link the product
3. All finish products should stop coming off on things after they cure

https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665

> Similarly, I recently finished my first furniture project and spent a considerable amount of time asking my brother about which finish would be best. Seems like everyone has opinions on Shellac vs. Poly vs. Oils etc., but, in all the research I did, I could not find a clear, consistent answer on the definitive pros and cons of each and when it's appropriate to use each.

https://www.wagnermeters.com/moisture-meters/wood-info/truth-about-wood-finishes/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1565235665/

For your health

I totally agree with you! I think one of the big problems is how misleading many finishing products are. For instance, Minwax sells a product called "Tung Oil Finish". Which isn't an oil finish at all. It's a "wiping varnish", which is just a regular varnish that's been thinned down. I actually like Minwax' Tung Oil Finish, but I doubt if there is a single drop of tung oil in it, and it finishes like a varnish, not like an oil, which shouldn't be surprising, since it's a varnish, but how is someone new to finishing supposed to know that? Very confusing.

If you are interested in taking the mystery out of wood finishing, I would highly recommend this book by Bob Flexner. It was a real eye-opener for me. It cuts through the marketing crap, explains what different types of finishes there are, how to apply them, and what their advantages and disadvantages are. It is not overly technical, and it is full of good example pictures. It's really a spectacular book! I recommend it to anyone that is new to wood finishing.

Here is another unlikely source of good information. There is lumber supplier out there called Woodworkers Source. They have an employee named Mark Stephens that does a series of YouTube videos for the company mostly about wood finishing. Now some jackass that works at a wood store is actually the last guy I would expect to know anything about wood finishing (I mean you can just pretty much count on anything an employee at Home Depot or ACE tells you about finishing will be dead wrong). But I stumbled upon Marks' videos a couple of months ago, and damn! He actually knows his shit! I've learned a lot from his videos, especially about staining. If interested, check out the videos here.

Good luck! Post a pic of the final changing table. I would like to see it!

You're welcome. I came by my knowledge and skill in the trade the hard way, which is to say a combination learning on my own and extracting help from friends and colleagues over many years, so I am happy to pass it on.

You can always feel free to hit me up with a DM for some help, but here are some general resources to help you out:

• My friend Peter Gedrys is going to kill me for suggesting this, but this book by Robert Flexner is a very good primer on the basics. Just understand as with so many things, no man has a monopoly on the right way to do it. STOP COMPLAINING, PUT DOWN THE BEER AND WRITE YOUR OWN DAMN BOOK PETE!
• The Knowledge Base at Woodweb is an excellent resource. They have a section just for finishing. The forums there are not as active as they used to be, but as a former contributor to the site, I can tell you its one of the rare places where the pros get together to bitch and swap tips, so its worth your time if you know what to look for.
• Dust: it messes with the best of us. Best thing I can tell you is to keep your shop clean as you can manage, and try to avoid mixing operations when you get down to finish work. In my prior shops I had a dedicated spray room or area, but I downsized a few years ago, so now I basically convert the space or work outdoors when I can. You can buy a spray shelter/tent like this one at Amazon also for under $50 which can be used indoors or out. I always keep these wax-impregnated tack cloths handy, especially when I am shooting clears. Make it a habit to check/wipe your surfaces between coats, especially after scuffing. You can't see the dust, but trust me, it's there.
• Surface prep is critical, and the pros are not kidding when they say that it is 90% of the work. You can set yourself up for success or frustration. Pick good material, select the best show faces of your stock and do your millwork with care. A good finisher merely reveals the existing beauty of the wood. A great finisher knows how to bury the sins of a thousand shitty cabinet makers.
• I don't want to sound overly cynical, and you likely do not need me to tell you this, but: most of the wood finishing products you are going to find at your local Ace/Lowe's/Home Depot are crap, and as much as I love my local Ace feed/supply store, the guys in their paint department are going to be clueless about advanced wood finishing. Minwax is GARBAGE, and that's okay. The trick is to find a product line that works for your needs and stick with it. Mixing product lines/vehicles is an unnecessary risk for a novice. I started with Mohawk on the recommendation of a colleague years ago, but after attending a commercial finishing lecture presentation in '02, I moved over to Sherwin-Williams. About 7-8 years ago S-W started backing away from the commercial wood finishing business and cancelling or reducing the product lines, which is when I made the jump to M.L. Campbell, and I've never looked back. Its truly a superior commercial product. My suggestion would be to hit the Ring's End store in New London (they have other locations in the state). The place is really for pros, but the staff are highly knowledgeable. Just don't go on a Saturday morning if you're looking for advice.
• Spray guns vs: brushing/wipe on: Wipe-on and brush-on polys and varnishes are totally fine, and good brush work is a lost art. The best tip I can give you for brush work is to buy good bristle brushes and treat them with respect. Take care of them and they will take care of your work.
• Spraying is about consistency and efficiency. HVLP was the big thing when I got in back in the day. AAA (Air-assisted airless) is the new hotness with all the pros. You can get a decent gravity feed gun pretty cheaply these days, but like anything else, your mileage will vary. My Fuji guns are one-quart siphon feed and I have had them for over a decade, thanks to excellent support from the manufacturer. I got my first gun/turbine setup for under $1k, and the individual guns will run you anywhere from $200 to $800 depending on the quality. Probably overkill for a home shop. Places like Rockler and Woodcraft have good entry level offerings.
• Lastly: when you start looking at various product lines of clear finishes, you will undoubtedly become embroiled in the "solvent vs. water base" debate, which has been raging for years. When we talk about "vehicles" in finishing, the debate is over what the lacquer/varnish/whatever is suspended in: solvent based (alcohol/lac thinner) or water. The bottom line is that most pros are still using solvent-based for various reasons. That said, waterborne finishes have made great strides in recent years. Hood finishing probably has the best, but its pricey, and they take some time getting accustomed to, especially with regard to cure times, which are much longer than solvent based, where you can re-coat in 15 minutes and have a full cure in an hour or two.

Good luck!

You need (everyone needs!) "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner. This is a spectacular book that really helps cut through the marketing speak and the huge amount of misinformation that is floating around out there about wood finishing.

https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665

It is a very well researched, easy to read book that answers exactly what you are asking. At least check it out on Amazon and read through their "Look inside" feature. It will give you a good flavor for what the book is about. I love this book. I found it to be a huge eye-opener.

Is this the book your on about?