What is Reddit's opinion of DROK USB Tester, USB-A 2.0 Digital Multimeter Dual USB Output Ports PD QC 3.0 Color LED Display, 7 Modes Capacity Voltage Current Power Voltmeter Ammeter for Laptop Power Bank Phone Solar Panel?

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Yah, I would not run it there, these cams usually draw more current than 500 ma, which is what a standard port puts out. I would either get a wire to the odb2 or I would run seperate lighter plug that provided 2 amps.

One test to find out if it is electrical is put it in your front seat and see if it happens. If it happens when it is not being jostled so hard then it is not sd card or mount or vibration but not enough current.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Multifunctional-Electrical-Capacity/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=usb+current+meter&qid=1600131277&sr=8-5

Buy one of those and see the current draw on your console vs a seperate USB adapter.

Usually different USB ports on the same external battery have completely different amperage outputs. I guess just make sure that you are always using the highest amperage output. One thing that you could do is buy a voltage and current meter from Amazon they're like $7 to watch the power flow through your USB and you could test.

DROK® Dual USB 2.0 Digital Multimeter Ampere Voltage Capacity Power Meter 7 Modes Monitor for Fast Charging Data Sync DC 3.2-15V 0-3A Volt Amp Charger Detector Mobile Solar Panel Alignment Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_XzJDwb5JV4VB4

You can test cables with something like this. It will tell you exactly how much current is being drawn by the phone (or anything else you plug into it).

From what you describe it does sound like you might be pulling 3A through a charger that can't handle that amount of current for any length of time.

In general, it is well worth buying a 'USB-multimeter' (about $10 and up) in order to monitor and understand how devices work, or to troubleshoot charging or boot up issues. Saved me oodles in having been able to see the actual current going in to a device - or not.

I can recommend this one, but many models out there. I like the fact that it has a pig tail and not a stiff plug (fits all over and not as easy to break). USB-C version a bit pricier.
www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Multifunctional-Electrical-Capacity/dp/B00J3JSEG6

So just because it makes connections with accessories doesn't mean that the port is working each pin dose different things and if the power pins are damaged your going to need to replace it. Unfortunately it's hard to test without usb multi meters https://www.amazon.ca/DROK-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Capacitance/dp/B00J3JSEG6 if there is a phone repair shop nearby they can confirm my guess is pins are damaged. Unfortunately Apple doesnt have wetness indicators in charge ports that's a Samsung thing. The only other think it could be but unlikely with the resets is apple devices can technically be set to accessory mode only then won't take a charge. If it is the port Unfortunately with ipads it's a soldering job I would be careful where I bring that cheep repair shops will probably do more damage then hood in my opinion. I've seen whole phones be wrecked and the shop claims it's a pre existing issue.

I work phone and tablet repair samsung and Apple certified if you care about my qualifications

For this case - and essentially 'anytime' there are issues with charging, or one wants to isolate a device (block data path), I can highly recommend this one for less than $12:
www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3JSEG6

Should be in 'toolkit' for anyone that travels, or are working on devices at home. One output has a datapath, the other one only charging.

Many other version can be found, but I highly recommend this design with plug on a little pigtail over the ones with a firmly mounted plug.

Buy a USB ammeter to measure the actual amps. That's what really counts. If you want to know the Watts delivered to your phone, just multiply the amps times the volts. DROK USB Tester, USB-A 2.0 Digital Multimeter Dual USB Output Ports PD QC 3.0 Protocol with Color LED Display, Battery Charger Power Monitor, 7 Modes Capacity Voltage Current Power Display Voltmeter Ammeter for Laptop Power bank Phone Solar Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CFYK76VYM93JHPZ4C4T2

First, need a charger that can provide enough current to 'lift' your battery out of a severely discharged state. It might be that the current needed for that is more than what your charger can provide.

To better see/understand what is going on - or not - one of these $10 gizmos (or a version, as there are hundreds of models) are very handy to have. Gives you an idea if the iPads really are taking a charge - or not.
www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Multifunctional-Electrical-Capacity/dp/B00J3JSEG6

That’s a good question. You might try picking up a usb tester and watching the voltage when it disconnects. If it drops to 0 then it’s an overload protection circuit kicking in, which was the case with mine.

That should give you a starting point to look at the various components within the system.

<edit> if the voltage doesn’t change then you’re looking at a software issue.

(DROK-300043 Digital Multimeter USB 2.0, Multifunctional Electrical Tester, Capacity Voltage, Current Power Meter Detector Reader with Dual USB Ports, LED Display, 7 Modes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3Z7YT7TRT1DW738XY32J?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1)

Have you tested using another USB device? I suggest you test your USB ports with something like this, although if your device was killed by a surge you'd need to find the cause behind that. Was there a powerline surge at the same time?

My shop uses ones to check draw one phones. They plug in between the AC adapter and the charging cable. You could probably grab one and if you know what you’re doing, pull the board out and repurpose it

I suppose this homeassistant needs speaker, microphone, maybe a screen or lights? You want to make sure that EVERYTHING drawing power from a 2.5A supply fits within that at all times, and try to keep a margin like 2.3A max just to be sure. There are some nice USB power meters that can help confirm this.

I have one of these and its really great for measuring current draw for USB devices. For example, I use it to test if one of my phone chargers or cables is charging my phone slowly. Very useful.

Try powering off your phone and charging it. This will all but rule out a software problem. Also, one of these things might come in handy; I haven't found Ampere to be too accurate.

> My Pi has connected 1 USB mobile 3g modem, 1 motion sensor over gpio, and (hopefully) 2 i2c sensors.

I'll assume you don't have a USB inline meter doodad to measure the current draw? (they can be had for $3-4 if you can wait 4-6 weeks for shipping from China)

In that case, could you please provide the manufacturer/model numbers for the 3G modem, the motion sensor and the i2c sensors so I can find their datasheets and figure out their maximum current draw?

I'm hopeful 24 hours is doable with a cheaper USB battery, say in the $25 range rather than $50.

I also recommend grabbing a cheap USB amp meter www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Capacity-Charging-Alignment/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ or something similar to help diagnose battery/charge port issues. They're super handy.

With the old parts not working too, I'd be worried about the U2 IC as well, as someone else said, try and get a charged battery, and see if it'll boot with a battery you know boots another phone fine.

Current is what really matters. If your device is only drawing 1.5A and not 3A, the resistance value is kind of academic. Using a USB ammeter would be much easier than all of this. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Capacity-Charging-Alignment/dp/B00J3JSEG6/

I have no experience with this particular one but they are not uncommon or expensive.

Your cables may be crap. I'd recommend getting a USB voltage monitor to see how much power is being drawn. I have one of these under a different brand (mine says USB Detector on it, not DROK).

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Charging-Detector-Alignment/dp/B00J3JSEG6

get yourself a usb current meter, amazon sells quite a few versions. the version i am using

The more amperage shown by the devices, the quicker your device is charging.

Ive tested various lengths of cables myself, and purchased a usb current meter off of amazon, found that anything longer than 4 feet you really start to lose a lot of current.

http://smile.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Dual-usb-Charging-Alignment/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1428492960&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+current+meter

FWIW, these are a pretty cheap and painless way to measure current and voltage on USB stuff.

You might enjoy a USB power meter. It shows you exactly what is going on with the power from a USB port. There are a bunch of them for around $10 on Amazon if you search for usb meter. I have this one from DROK; you'll see identical units under a few other names too.

This is what I use. Shows you voltage + amperage, and the bottom port has data pins disabled.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00J3JSEG6/

Just something to consider. USB Power meter.

You have just described classic PQ (power quality issues).

There could be many reason for PQ, which is an extremely systemic issue on today's power distribution system because of the "digital" loads and a hot topic spreading across the planet among engineering communities that we are still learning about.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3JSEG6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB&amp;psc=1

Just something to consider.

Try and plug your Wyze power adapter into a different electrical circuit in your home and also try a different brand of charger into other electrical circuits not controlled by the same circuit breaker. Sometimes a home electrical outlet may not have 110 volts due to various issues, which would result in a lower power output for two Wyze cams to operate when chained together with the line-losses from the two usb cables.

To verify, you need a device to measure the USB power with under load conditions.

Something like this:

From Amazon

USB Meter, DROK Digital Multimeter USB 2.0, Multifunctional Electrical Tester, Capacity Voltage, Current Power Reader with Dual USB Ports, 7 Modes

https://smile.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Multifunctional-Electrical-Capacity/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=USB+voltage&amp;qid=1574890447&amp;sr=8-6

Can you borrow someone else's charger to test with? Perhaps your charger is losing its strength and needs replacing.

There are inexpensive little gadgets that you can plug into the USB to show the voltage and current. It would show if the power is "drooping" lower than what the 2i2 likes.

USB Meter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3JSEG6/

I'm not sure if there is a way to tell on the phone, but a usb power meter would tell you how much power it is drawing.

I wound up buying this one. I think it's the older model, but was about the same price, had a ton more reviews and showed voltage on same screen.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3JSEG6/

This is the particular one I used... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1os3Ab1K742KB

1st, download Ampere, which if your phone supports reporting charge current it should tell you how fast your battery is charging. Ideally you want >1000ma.

For a more indepth analysis, you can get one of these. I find mine extremely useful.

If its charging slowly with all your chargers and cables though, more than likely you have a dirty or broken data-pin in your micro-usb port so it can only draw the default ~300-400ma. You should look inside it with a magnifying glass and make sure all the metal contacts look ok.

I can confirm via a USB multimeter that non-Dash charging peaks at 1.5A with a quality charger and cable.

I don't have a complete time from 0-100%, but I did measure the current draw using one of these when I first took the phone out of the box. The phone itself was around 60% charged and I charged it using a Samsung 2A charger, a thick micro USB cable, and a micro USB to type C adapter. When I plugged the phone in, the multimeter showed that it was drawing 1.8A. It's possible that the phone might draw more current if I use a charger with higher output, but I haven't tested that yet. I plan to test the draw with the OEM charger and cable when I drain the battery enough, but I tend to leave my phone on the charger when I'm not using it, so I haven't had the opportunity yet (this is only my second day using the phone).

I saw in this review that the OP3 starts substantially limiting the Dash charging rate when it reaches about 80% (or 2400mAh out of the total 3000mAh for the battery). If we apply the same charging curve to non-Dash charging, then it would take about 80 minutes to charge from 0-80% at 1.8A.

I have this meter that I plug a micro hub into then all the pi accesories into that to get an idea of what it all draws.

I'm here on /r/AskEngineers precisely because I don't know how much of this stuff works. It plugs in via USB and has two USB outputs to connect your device.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_6vJdxb1MYC6QX

USB Volt/Ammeter's are surprisingly useful.

I got this one - the cheaper LED display version.

This one shows voltage and amperage Link

To anyone interested, similar multimeters go on sale for $1-3 every now and then. I've gotten two from different brands from watching SlickDeals.