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USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear?
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This stuff is great, very hard and a great clear aswell BUT you have to wear a mask or be outside where it's well ventilated. After you coat it (2-3 layers) let it dry for 24-48 hours and then wet sand it with 2000 grit to 3000 grit for a good shine. You could also pick up some wipe on polishfor a truly glossy look.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_506YQX9B9P50BGR0462D
Spraymax 2k clearcoat. It's a two part clearcoat in a unique spray can. You take the lid off and push it into the bottom of the can and it releases a hardener. You then have 45 minutes or something to spray. It's an extremely durable clearcoat. Only costs about $20 per can.
https://www.amazon.com/SprayMax-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Clear/dp/B0082LJMC6/
Clearcoat tends to go everywhere so you have to tape everything off really well.
Thanks so much for your help. So if it's not one of those spray cans with the thing on the bottom that you have to slam down to break open the inside container, then it would be safe to say that's not 2K Clear Coat, right?
Couldn't find Eastwood but I found this for Spraymax.
Would that one work? Is it safe to use on a diecast metal car that will be displayed indoors? The description is vague, it says "High Glamour" but the French part on the label translates to "Clear varnish with brilliant luster."
Depending on how damaged the clear coat is, you may be able to improve it dramatically. Start with the least aggressive approach you can. Based on the photos, I'd go with a good cutting compound using a DA or rotary. Be careful not to burn through the paint.
If that helps and the clear is still intact, try wet sanding lightly by hand with 800. If it improves and the clear is still intact, move up to 1500 to remove the 800 scratches, then go back to the cutting compound.
If the clear has failed, you can use 800 to feather the clear (be careful NOT to sand the base), then shoot two light coats and two medium coats using a good 2K clear. It will eventually fail, but it should last a good couple of years.
technically its an abrasive so yes, for a few weeks till they fog again.
what you should do is, get some sand paper for a few dollars on amazon, 1500 and 2500. wet sand the headlight till its uniformly hazy. buy a foam attachment for a drill, polish it, buy This, apply and wait till it dries, and polish again. probably 50$ all in.
or buy new headlights.
Your paint looks excellent in the photo, I’m definitely going with something better than Krylon or whatever I used from Lowes. I used Spray Max 2k clear coat which came out pretty good, but I wish I had been a little more efficient with it or bought 2 cans.
Where did you get your “direct drive” decal on the seat tube? That’s a great touch👌
I used USC Spray Max like the one found here:
USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_1M8D2C8EJR0C2M5KGREA
It does have a 48 hour pot life after activation which you have to use it within
So this is Clear coat? Thanks for the info. Maybe I'll try to do some visual design for my pedal when I'll build it.
if you are looking for something that might last 1-2 years then yes this will probably be ok... paint that does not have a hardener does not normally last very long
something like this would probably get you 4 years maybe depending on the weather in your area and if you wax it often
https://www.amazon.com/SprayMax-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Clear/dp/B0082LJMC6
scuff and hit it with a good primer.
use any paint you want but the important part is the clear coat.
recommend 2k clear coat.
make sure you wear a real respirator, not just a mask. also wear long sleeves. you don't really want to inhale the urethane or have it land on your skin.
give it a couple days to fully gas out and then you can compound/polish if you want a mirror finish
For the non-final layers I'm just using a Krylon gloss clear coat. For the final layer I'm going to use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082LJMC6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's made of two parts that you mix right before you use so it's more like a proper automotive clear coat. The catch is that you have to use the can within 24 hours.
This is the 2k clearcoat. Hopefully can ship to HI. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_EA1WGTKE3WCKZXC5Y64X
Not sure about topping off what you already have with this stuff. You might need wetsand with 600 or 800 grit first.
2k is much stronger than the stuff you have on.
If you don't have access to a paint gun to use automotive clear coats, check out 2k clear coats in a can. They're a two part clear that's gas and oil resistant. It's what I use on all the bikes I've painted including my own and it holds up great
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_pkm7FbKRWM0PD
They make a high gloss, semi gloss, and matte. I've used the high gloss and matte with great results
It is considerably more expensive than regular spray paint https://smile.amazon.com/SprayMax-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Clear/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=sr_1_4?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Automotive+Clear+Coats&qid=1607555623&s=automotive&sr=1-4&ts_id=15709871 The clear coat can still be painted over so you wouldn't have to replace the whole wall.
I’ve never personally painted a mouse before, but have some experience airbrushing Xbox controllers, which I believe is very similar in terms of plastic type and technique. Here’s a short guide on wet sanding from a website I found:
“Wet Sanding Technique
The type of sandpaper you need for wet sanding is called silicon carbide -- or wet/dry -- sandpaper. It's usually black or gray. Immerse the paper in water for 10 minutes, then sand in a circular motion. Keep the sanding pattern irregular to avoid producing deep scratches that might remain visible. Using a foam block to support the sandpaper is helpful when sanding curved surfaces, such as headlight lenses.
A Typical Procedure
Before sanding, clean off dirt and grime with a mild detergent solution. Use a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water to clean extensively pitted plastic, because vinegar is a weak acid, and it helps smooth the surface. Run through the sanding grits in order from 220- to 400-, 800- and 1,200-grit, finishing with 1,500- or 2,000-grit, depending on how smooth you want the surface. Clean sanding residue with water after you're done with each grit.”
As for a glossy clear coat, I would 100% recommend this if you’re going for an ultra-gloss, highly durable, best finish possible:
USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7DTlFbC5E1PSW
I’ve never personally used this clear coat, but I’ve heard great things about it in terms of durability and finish. Just a word of caution though, once you puncture the internal can, you only have about 2 hours before the product solidifies in the can and can no longer be used.
Also seems to be stripping away some of the paint. The black area above my white circle was not peeled-looking before the clear coat. I’m painting with your standard rustoleum cans.
Here’s my clear coat:
USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3VhhFb60YTNC4
I think logically it will be susceptible to UV damage on interior of the lense. Headlights that still have a yellowish hue to them, even after restoration, are damaged on the inside. I don't see this too often so you should be fine. When the initial clear coat is gone. You have nothing left. You wont necessarily damage it more. But the yellowish fog will slowly introduce itself until you use a clearcoat.
Restore your headlights. Then use a clear coat after.
Ratchets and Wretches did a 3 year test and the 2K Clear Coat has the best result.
1.Disassembled bike
2.Paint stripper -EZ Stripper Heavy duty
leave for 4-12 hours, wipe down with rag or old sponge, can use hot water, leave to dry after
Wire Brush Frame - 1", 3" Wire Cup drill
attachmenthttps://www.homedepot.ca/product/avanti-pro-hand-drill-brush-wheel-set-for-wood-metal-rust-removal-4-pieces-/1000720573?rrec=true
repeat 2-4 until no paint left
CRITICAL STEP:
Deciding on the metal surface Finish (Roughness). Ideally No.4 Brushed Finish or satin finish as the metal cannot be polished b/c sprayed-coating will not stick. Plus The clear Coat will make it Shiny!
We achieve a desirable finish by hand. ScotchBrite pad or sanding paper/sponge to create a grain(scoring) in the metal in one consistent direction. I chose perpendicular (Like a Screw thread) to the tube, i.e. rotating circular about the frame tubes while making sure not to create parallel marks. This required roughly 3" section of frame at a time, then step over to the next section while blending the last one.
Isopropyl or Acetone spray and microfiber all metal to remove metal dust
Cover BB, Headset, Anything not needing clear coating
Epoxy based Clear coat per package instruction - 2K Max was about $35 Cad at Napa
Either hang by seat tube or headset Let Dry per package instruction 24-48 hours, some small drips can from so have the frame dry standing up will hide imperfections in hidden spots. Ex: BB, lower down tube or Underside of rear Triangle.
Feel the funny texture of clear over metal! and assemble the bike!
Done
Thats such a generic clear, i personally wouldn’t use that. Theres very little technical information on that product from what i can see and its a 1K clear meaning it has no hardener.
I would reccomend Spraymax 2K Glamor Clear its a little more expensive but its a brand that takes axalta automotive liquids and cans them with a spray tip that mimics a gun. Its also 2k so it has a hardener to make your clear stronger. But beware once you activate it you have a limited time to use it before it hardens in the can.
tds for spraymax clear i linked this one also has a good TDS. Id use this and wait about 15 minutes between coats at 70 degrees and 50% humidity.
If you want to use the dupliclear id guess you could safetly recoat around 10-15 mins but i couldnt find the proper info on that product.
If you want a long lasting solution (if properly prepped), not just a coating that will eventually wear off or need reapplied, then you'll have to mask off the front end of the car and buy yourself a 3m respirator with proper filter & a can of 2K clear and spray them with a couple coats. You don't want to breathe this stuff.
SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_R85TE60C76HXYMM274WH
Check out Paint Society on YT. He knows his paint. https://youtu.be/Xubwpeuqm-E
Not sure about your experience with paint and finish but this is for your final coat once the tank is repaired.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082LJMC6/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=A1CURR6B49VGZR&psc=1
Good luck and have fun!
I had no problems using it, time will tell how well it holds up but it
I hear great things about this clearcoat.
https://www.amazon.com/SprayMax-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Clear/dp/B0082LJMC6/
Urethane clear coat.
It's $21 on Amazon if this correct.
USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5si7DbK3TH9N1
Personally, I'd use this. Its an infinitely better product. But you've already sprayed. So, start the wet sanding. 2000 should be good.
For the paint, I used a machine polisher used for cars a long with a product called Lukat Detail. https://lukatdetail.com/ The creator of Lukat claims it is a paint "cleaner" and that it's not a compound. His YouTube has some pretty impressive results for cars restoring the clear coat. It supposedly works on restoring carbon fiber as well so that's why I bought it. It worked for me though I am assuming it acted a little bit like a compound and took a little bit of the paint off.
For the clear coat in the footwell, I used this stuff. It's as close to professional you can get. You can only use it within a 24-48 hour period so I tried to clear coat as much as possible such as the bow, stern, and new oars I bought. I would watch a video on how to spray it cause there is a preferred way to spray it to avoid it building up.
Get some clear coat and ultra fine grit sand paper. Sand until uniform throughout. All of the green color should be gone. Then spray a thin layer of clear coat on (do this outside in a well ventilated area). Wait for 1 day, and apply a 2nd layer. That should be plenty.
Let it set for 1 week. It will solidify into a layer of plexiglass about the thickness of a garbage bag over the first 1-2 days, it will stop smelling in 2-4 days, but we want to let it cure completely, so wait the full week, a cautious person would wait 2 weeks.
Then again, it's only $3.46 to replace it: here
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