What is Reddit's opinion of
UTG Leapers MNT-DTW145 Inc, Dovetail to Picatinny Rail Adaptor, Black?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
ProductGPT
Try the custom AI to help you find products that Reddit loves.
By popularity on Reddit, this product is:
17 reviews of this product found across Reddit:
ok…I can help.
> Could anyone point me in the right direction here? Do I need to get a dovetail to weaver adaption?
depends on what you want to do. You can go dovetail rings (high) for your application but they must be equipped with recoil stop pin. However your limited on how far back you can slide the rings back before adjusting the scope itself.
OR
Buy a UTG Leapers MNT-DTW145 Dovetail to Picatinny Rail Adaptor! It’s an adapter mount that you use with separate picatinny (medium) rings of your choice. I have three of these and they fit the Crosman airguns very nice. Only one stop pin is needed and sets right into the hole on the receiver.
Yeah on the Prowlers it’s just a fluted plastic muzzle piece at the end of the barrel. No open sights are standard on that gun not to say its impossible if you want to take the time to source something and make it your own. But I think your better suited for a good optic.
Crank as you may but that won’t stop your whole riser/scope assembly from moving backward eventually. There is a reason why that stop pin is in your riser mount in the first place. That’s if I am reading what you did correctly.
It sounds/looks like your fighting for more eye relief just seeing how close the ball of the scope is to your rear ring. Honestly your best bet is to get a UTG Leapers MNT-DTW145 Dovetail to Picatinny Rail Adaptor and you may need medium or high picatinny rings depending on how high that magazine hump sits in front of your scope. Also with the UTG Dovetail to Picatinny adapter you can flip it either way for even more relief if you desired.
No, definitely don't get another digital scope until you own a decent normal optic. Grab a dovetail to picatinny adapter like this one, a couple sets of picatinny rings, and a normal optic like an Element Helix, Vortex Diamondback Tactical, Vectpr Veyron, Ares BTR and you'll be good to go. As long as you reinstall the scopes in the same slots you removed them from, you will be pretty damn close to still zeroed.
I use one piece mounts on just about everything. On my FT guns I use a UTG dovetail to picatinny adapter and a set of picatinny rings. Its a MUCH more secure mounting system.
If you can shoot a piston gun well, you can shoot any gun well. Your holds with your Hatsan and Gamo will work for your firearms and will tighten their groups up as too. Obviously harder recoiling firearms will require you to tuck it in harder so you can stay on target and not hurt yourself, but the concept is the same.
You'll also need to check your scope rings more often. Springers have a tendency to shake them loose over time. Put a mark behind your rear scope ring and pay close attention to it. If your optic isn't installed properly it will 100% shift rearward on you. Upgrading your mounting system is highly recommended.
I'd recommend this UTG dovetail to picatinny adapter as well as a set of picatinny rings. Medium, 1" rings should do the trick unless you plan on upgrading your optic. You'll want rings with at least two screws on each side of the caps.
The cheaper, but less effective option, is a UTG one piece scope mount. It's much better than the stock rings but still a step down from my first recommendation.
Diana 34 doesn’t have that issue there’s no holes in the receiver directly. My Crosman has a hole in the receiver but the recoil pin (1 of 3 pins I can use) of my UTG scope riser I am using stops in the hole soon as the first thread bottoms out to make contact. In my case there’s no slop/wiggle.
UTG Leapers MNT-DTW145 Dovetail to Picatinny Rail would probably be ideal in your case. Only thing you would need is a set of medium size picatinny rings for proper clearance over the open sites so you don’t have to remove them.
If you can’t afford a Hawke Airmax buy a Hatsan Optima there are many different budget magnifications on Amazon or Walmart 3-9x40 would be fine or for $10 more you can get the 3-12x50.
Also your going to need better rings for a 1 inch tube. A pair of highs will do.
There kick ass shit without breaking the bank. 😄
Optional: Weaver FAT wrench
- Top Cap Screws: 15-18 in/lbs
- Base Cross Screws: 20 in/lbs
- Riser Base Cross Screws: 20 in/lbs
If you ever have a problem with the picatinny adapter I recommend these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABW7GS0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_glt_i_K5PJHYBKE25PVY8GWTJ1
I probably have 20+ of these mounted on various springers and PCPs.
Great gun.
> I’ll have to take a look and get back to you, I’m really not sure how old it is.
I even have a hard time sourcing this information because yours is quite different than most RWS/Dianas out there. Of course not just the but plate while having a knurled or etched rear stock giving away its age among other things. The 34 you have has a unique safety found on older models and it does not have a traditional Diana doverail. Yours has just a regular dovetail (9-11mm ?) etched into the receiver. On your gun on the opposite side there should be a metal stamp that says “Made in West Germany” (which maybe very faint) there maybe two sets of number there after such as for example 09 84 in which case the 84 means 1984. As far as the first set of numbers that may identify the month of September though I don’t know for certain. My airgun book tells me these were made around the mid 1980’s. Various details do determine approximately how much the gun is worth too as well as items you may have.
This is the only rifle I found that that is either exact or very close to what you have. From the looks of it your missing the globe sight and part of the rear sight but you must have taken them off for visibility purposes. I find it fascinating lots of these discontinued airguns I’ve only seen on various auctions sites like e-bay or gun specific sites.
> How thick are those recoil pads? (I’ve already got issues getting a good sight picture with that scope)
Not thick but provides you proper grip against your shoulder if you are shooting off hand. It may change you LOP (length of pull) just a bit.
As far as your scope relief I would recommend the UTG Leapers MNT-DTW145, Dovetail to Picatinny Rail Adaptor and a set of medium picatinny rings. This way when or if you decide to upgrade your scope you have room to work with a bigger objective bell. Such as a Hawke Airmax 3-9x40mm or 4-12x40 or x50. Also you can flip the adapter rail if you need more eye relief. And if your receiver has a recoil pin hole/s make use of it with the adapter as well as it goes on a certain way the detailed instructions tell you everything you need to know. You just need only one stop pin though and not all 3 is my only criticism.
> I found one interesting comment/review that claims it works if you loctite the rear section but just snug down the main section. Apparently retains zero, but will flatten a piece of copper wire if you insert it between the two sections and fire the gun. I imagine you would need to keep an allen wrench handy to retighten the screws, periodically.
That’s very Mickey Mouse and Loctite has no busness being on, in, or around the scope base/ring assembly.
> I don't understand the love affair with stop pins, because that doesn't do anything to stop the scope from sliding in the rings, unless you butt the rear ring against the turret. And now the eye relief is what it is, and you have to deal with it, since you can't move holes around.
If your scope is sliding in the ring halves themselves either improper torque (either too much or not enough) was applied to the scope ring caps. When I mean too much to the point when the scope top ring caps litterally deform leaving zero gap on each side of the ring thus clamping force ends up non effective as a result. Once proper torque is achieved this becomes a non issue and no need to butt the ring against the turret.
Stop pins prevent the whole assembly (scope/rings) from creeping backward due to a springers recoil impact during each shot. All scopes usually end up going backward if your not paying attention while getting lost on the target and not on your equipment if not torqued or mounted properly.
> A scope stop, on the other hand, can be custom made to put the eye relief exactly where you want it. I would probably use the screw hole to affix a simple shop-made scope stop. And I would replace the lost weight of the RRR with a barrel shroud. Enough weight on there solves anything. No more broken scopes or hold-sensitivity.
Its just easier to just switch from dovetail to picatinny via adapter such as the UTG Dovetail to Picatinny Rail Adapter and switch over to Picatinny rings. Scope stop arrestors do work however theres way better options out there.
This.
Wow what a shame. I normally place my right hand half on the receiver and half on the pistol grip. I give it slow and steady pumps with my 20+ year old plastic Crosman.
Don’t man handle the thing like your trying to use hedge sheers. When you use a pumper just take your time get into a rhythm and count.
I use a real budget 3-9x40 scope and I have a dovetail riser that works well. I’d never use dovetail rings for fear of actual bite marks since it’s only plastic. Here’s the UTG dovetail to picatinny adapter I use and cross screw torque settings is less than or equal to 10in/lbs. It won’t mar the dovetail and won’t be too loose.
The scope and rings are subjective but you can use this scope just need medium picatinny rings.
Also are you sure you have a Crosman 780? 🤔 Did you mean 760? (I’ll have to double check my airgun book if you do cause I don’t recall that)
If I recall correctly, the Vortek seal is moly infused which may account for the slight smoking. u/taemyks would know better than me though. As far as your scope goes, on my TX I use a UTG dovetail to picatinny adapter and a set of Burris Signature XTR rings. The scope does not move at all.
If your gun is anything like this one based off what you described there’s no issue with the gun itself. However I am not ruling out the scope but your main issue very well might be that recoil reducing rail that came mounted on the gun itself as it could be on crooked OR how you mounted the one piece scope ring rail. I know all it is, is just a dovetail riser with a bump stop thats it. Nothing magical here on how its marketed but they just needed something high enough for a scope to peek over that Gen2 pellet feeder mechanism.
I’d unscrew that Gamo recoil riser and that bump stop portion completely off the gun. Maybe the base is crooked, cross screws might be loose, or just factory mounted incorrectly. You’ll find your issue once you start disassembling everything. Simply screw it all back together with included scope and make sure your bases are locked into each recoil set pin holes.
If your still having issues call Gamo up because I believe they offer a 5 year warranty explain your situation have them send you another Gamo recoil reduction riser.
I know if it were me I’d buy a UTG Leapers Dovetail to Picatinny adapter and buy a set of cheap 1 inch tube Weaver brand picatinny style high rings from my local Walmart. And screw it all down with a Wheeler FAT wrench for equal mounting.
I own two X50 scopes, one silver and one black.
They are far better than the T50 or T50+. The T50/T50+ is a decent to good scope but they have limited vertical adjustment making it difficult to get your zero of you have barrel droop. All three of my HW97K's have had droop and required some sort of compensation, either the Burris Zee Signature rings, or the Burris XTR signature rings. I put a UTG dovetail to picatinny adapter on the gun as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABW7GS0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m88qFbB6J8J9W
I have 15 of these adapters. I really like them.
Another great option is a Tac Vector Sentinel 10-40x50 scope. Between two friends and I we have over a dozen of them. I love the glass, it's hawke sidewinder quality glass. The Gen 2 has a great reticle for hold points, they focus to 10 yards as well. I would buy them on sale for $130-175. They are near $200ish now. I've designed and 3d printed ABS sidewheels for them and it works excellent with a 7.75" equivalent diameter at 55 yards. I make a detachable magnetic version and one you adhere to the knob using rtv silicone or E6000 glue. (Both removable and won't damage the scope if you needed to remove the wheel.
Also, pyramyd is having a clearance blowout of the AEON 10-40X50 Mil dot scope for $109. You will never see that good of a deal again on one of those. Make sure you buy the sunshade for it too. They are also on sale for $4.99
https://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Aeon_10_40x56_SF_AO_Mil_Dot_Reticle_1_4_MOA_30mm_Tube/8784
Do you have any high powered glass now?
something like this should work.
looks common with that red dot as well.
This is the best one to be honest the UTG dovetail to picatinny adapter works real well combed with high rings to help compensate for 40-50mm Adjustable Objective scope lenses. It fits 9mm to 11mm dove rails and is reversible so you can bring your scope closer to your eye. There are 3 adjustable set screws/pins.
Hey but don’t take my word for it look at people that use this with their own HW’s. 😎
Popular alternatives to UTG Leapers MNT-DTW145 Inc,...
Patch and Heavy Duty Universal Pistol Dovetailed Rear Sight Pusher Tool (Rear Sight Tool)
DPMS Full Auto SBR CO2-Powered BB Air Gun with Dual Action Capability DSBR, Black.
