What is Reddit's opinion of Valefod 6 Pack LM2596 DC to DC High Efficiency Voltage Regulator 3.2-35V to 1.25-30V Buck Converter DIY Power Supply Step-Down Module?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

I've had success driving everything off a single power source by putting a voltage regulator in front of the arduino and any other electronics, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Valefod-Efficiency-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B076H3XHXP/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=Voltage+Regulator&qid=1644473369&sr=8-9. I wasn't having much luck with capacitors or other simple filtering circuits.

Would my step down converter (some amazon bought ones) be better or worst than the ams1117 or Id33v? My priority is protecting the board, which was build for two 1.5 AA batteries) and not losing power by it being converted to heat like a resistor. I see that both options you provided are cheap and something new to me that would help me learn more, I already have some step up and step down converters though. Space is restricted and there are moving parts and some vibration. I was thinking of 1 or 2 18650 batteries to replace the regular AA and a rechargable board for safe charging, not sure if it's better to go with a regular lithium pack but most that fit the space provided are only 3.7v (not sure the board can handle that and not enough for 6 white leds) and the 18650s combinned would be 7.4v and offer almost twice the mAh than regular AA. What would you do, need 5v here and 3v there, the leds were not meant to be there so you need something better than AAs, space is limited so smallest parts would be better but not if it means sacrificing a way better option, protection for main board and as clean as possible.

Step down converter I bought https://www.amazon.com/Valefod-Efficiency-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B076H3XHXP/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1UYSATKXRZII5&keywords=valefod+6+pack+m2596&qid=1646990479&sprefix=valefod%2B6+pack+m2596%2Caps%2C1291&sr=8-1

I don't have any resistors laying around, so something like this then:

https://www.amazon.ca/Valefod-Efficiency-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B076H3XHXP/ref=pd\_sbs\_5/132-5132240-6355417?pd\_rd\_w=jczRV&pf\_rd\_p=5e3de09f-c23c-4218-88f9-a2511d573f0c&pf\_rd\_r=SXKPF61E2938BF95QR0A&pd\_rd\_r=572f6f3b-225f...

Since it's 3v, would it be right to say that replacing the entire circuit board with a simple DC/DC converter would do? Something like this set to 3v.

Possibly a dc to dc buck converter - https://www.amazon.com/Valefod-Efficiency-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B076H3XHXP/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2NURC402IBQRG&keywords=dc+to+dc+buck+converter+5+to+1&qid=1641425084&sprefix=dc+to+dc+buck+converter+5+to+1%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-3

Hi guys, thanks, the only problem is that I couldn't find the right inductors I need to create a switch power supply that wanted LM2596.
So what I decided to do is to cheat a little and just use a ready LM2596 module (from amazon) and install it on my PCB.

It can handle 3 amps and it's pretty efficient and easy to get (already ordered).

I actually searched the part you sent on amazon and it's around the 30$ mark! crazy.

The Buck converters I have say they are rated to 3A max output. I looked at the included USB power supply that came with my Pi 4 kit and it says 5.1v/3.5a. So it looks like the Power supply that came with it can provide 3.5a, but the buck converter can only provide 3a. Think I'll still be good?

I use a lot like these, they have wide input and output voltages, they supply up to a couple of amps, they’re cheap and they’re suitable for hardwiring the project after prototyping is over. They work fine with prototype boards too but solutions for prototype boards don’t transition to hardwiring very well.

https://smile.amazon.com/Valefod-Efficiency-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B076H3XHXP/

Are you sure the servos take only 6V and won’t run fine on 5V? The 12g servos that I use are listed as 5-6V, though maybe larger servos require more than 5. If they work on 5V, you can just get a 5V regulator.

If they really need 6V, then these are adjustable and should do what you need: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076H3XHXP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AWHGNV834Z4YYN05N2FQ

I can’t really comment confidently on whether 6.6V will be fine for the servos, but keep in mind that the fully charged voltage may be higher than that.

I use these with good results. I know the listing is a 6 pack but it’s $9.99 and for some reason singles are always $5-6.. if you do a lot of pi projects it’s worth getting the six.

You need to use a meter and tune it, connect it to your 12V on the input side and turn the little screw until the output side reads about 5.3v. If the output wires are short you can use DuPont connectors to the gpio pins. If they are more than 4” or so then I’d use a heavier gauge wire. The only time I ever had a problem was when the wires were too thin I got the rainbow square. I had 5.1v at the buck but only 4.0 at the gpio pins. Using a larger gauge wire fixed the problem, but they were also about 10” long.

You are correct. I thought it would work with 12V but when I hooked it up to my bench top PSU it only clicked when I got close to 24V. I wonder if the LM2596 based buck converter that I got from Amazon is causing problems. Would it be ok to use a L7812CV linear regulator to go from 14.5 to 12 or should I got with a resistor? I am able to mount a L7812CV to the ground point (metal radio frame built into chassis) so heat dissipation would not be a problem. I really don't know much about creating custom circuits so thanks for your advice.

I see. I thought you only wanted to run the fan. I used this DC to DC buck converter for my pumps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076H3XHXP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

If you just want a cheap way to control the AC load, you could use a xmas light controller with daylight sensor. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=christmas+light+daylight+sensor&crid=M3EGGP86JR8M&sprefix=christmas+light+daylight+sensor%2Caps%2C460&ref=nb_sb_noss

You probably don't want to go that way, unless your pumps are tiny. The amperage a water pump uses makes boost converters work real hard (heat kills). You'll be charging the battery WAY more than a higher voltage system, and as you know - more charges = shorter life.

Use two or three cells in series, for 7.4 or 11.1 volts out, with a 6 volt (or variable) 'buck' (step-down) regulator. Radio Control (R/C) packs are perfect for this, though a little expensive. You can roll your own, but you'll need battery protection circuitry and a charger. Then find a good step-down regulator that can handle the current you need. For example, something like these will work if your pump uses less than 3 amps.

The nice thing about the RC packs is that the chargers are all standard (Okay.. mostly standard.. be sure to check), and the packs not only have protection circuitry built in, but also come shrink wrapped in heavy plastic and wired with a connector.

You'll need an LDO (Low DropOut) regulator if you go with '2S' packs (2 in series). 3S packs can use pretty much any regulator that can put out the amps you need. They'll last a little longer, too, but also cost more.

If that's the case then I'd suggest getting something like this and adjusting it down to ~4V. (And gluing the trim pot in place so it doesn't vibrate higher.)

 

^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger

 

^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger

 

^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger

 

^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger

The power supply supplies the fan with 24v so you'll need to reduce the voltage and/or current. Converters are cheap. What you want is easy to find with the search term "DC to DC step down" on various sites like ebay and amazon. You want one that can take in 24v and output 12v.

I personally used a converter like this because it's tiny and adjustable and accepts a wide range of input voltages. If you don't want to do soldering or want something easier, this one is still fairly small and can do everything the tiny one can do, but also has a display that can show you the output voltage as you adjust it and requires no soldering.

It should work fine. If you want to control it with Amazon Alexa then you will need to install the Smart Life app on your phone and setup an account. Then install the Smart Life skill on Alexa. You don't need to use the phone app after that unless you also want to control the relay from the phone.

Definitely check the desk power supply with a meter since the max supply voltage for the relay is 32 volts; of the power supply is close to that then you should probably use a DC to DC power supply to drop the voltage to the relay board. Something like this would work perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/Valefod-Efficiency-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B076H3XHXP

​

BTW, next time you post an Amazon item, you only need to copy and paste up to the end of 10-digits after the /dp/ . Here's your link shortened:

https://smile.amazon.com/4-Channel-WiFi-Wireless-Relay-Switch-Module/dp/B08JCPV6ZS

In fact, if you have OCD you can make it even shorter by getting rid of the description in the URL! Then it looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCPV6ZS

That fan will be fine once you get it the right voltage. Just need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Valefod-Efficiency-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B076H3XHXP

crispy is right on. I have used these buck converters for several projects: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076H3XHXP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details There are several similar converters available.

They have a little screwdriver adjustment for the output voltage. They come set for 30V output, so you have to turn the adjustment screw 8 or more turns to get it down to 5V. Do the adjustment BEFORE you connect it to your Arduino. Any voltage between 4.9 and 5.1V will be fine. Connect the OUT- terminal to the Arduino's GND pin and the OUT+ terminal to the 5V pin. Try to keep your battery charged. This is a lead-acid battery and, even though it is a "deep discharge" type, these don't like full discharge, reduces life.

What about something like this?

Good question! You're thinking right. It's a 24v PSU that gives a 5v rail as well. I used one of these to run the LEDs, and it's been solid for over a year now.