Oh, I completely understand passing on that car. Sounds like nothing was maintained.
Still, get one, they are very very useful, and cheap. Only $13 for an Android BT reader on Amazon - $18 if you need iOS. If you have Android, download Torque ($5 for paid version, but even free is very good.)
That under $25 set will have more features than the $200-$400+ readers still sold in autostores... and are more up to date, and can easily interface with the web for more code information.
What makes that one better than mine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_MQDWND9KYE6RB4M4Y0CR ?
For $13 and a free app (dr prius) I was able to kill that gawd dang reverse beep! I asked two dealerships about doing it, the first said that "toyota" had told them they aren't allowed to do it because it could open them up to liability. And the other had no problem doing it, for $75!
I just bought one of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ And downloaded an open source OBD reader app called AndrOBD. This works, but I don't know what I'm doing. Maybe I should try the 'Torque' app that seems popular, but what value do I look for exactly?
you can get a code reader for pretty cheap, I have this one and it's been fine (just don't leave it plugged in because the bluetooth password is 1234 and can't be changed). the codes (on the gen 2 at least) should tell you which cylinder is misfiring
if it's a single cylinder, then I would suspect the fuel injector. if it's multiple, then I'm not sure.
I would also avoid putting a lot of miles on it; unburnt fuel from a misfire can damage the catalytic converters
Get an OBD2 scanner and plug it into your car. It will tell you the error code, allowing you to lookup what's wrong. You use an app like Torque or Car Scanner to link to the scanner.
Something like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ok, so they refuse to do it because you have "no check engine light", so your next best option would be to buy a scan tool. amazon sells the veepeak ones that connects to your phone via bluetooth. i paid 30$ for mine, and depending on what app you use, it gives you a lot of data. you can check your sensor readings and everything.
Here is the one i have:
https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr\_1\_3\_sspa?crid=1E3SJ3D81AHZ9&keywords=veepeak+obd2&qid=1671571304&sprefix=veepeak%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwd...
Or just buy a $15 bluetooth odb2 reader, everyone should have one.
Which ELM dongle did you get? Not all of them are the same and some are literal garbage.
I went through 4 of them before finding one that actually worked. It was the one from Veepeak that finally worked.
Also needed Torque Pro, not the free version of the app.
Alternatively, you can get an OBDeleven as well.
EPC & limp mode will throw codes.
This adapter is $15 and is certified to work with Dr. Prius.
It can be a little frustrating getting it to connect for the first time but after it's connected it should be good until the next time you unplug it.
$13 and it supports ' obd fusion' which is another app that's pretty useful. Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD II Scanner for Android, Auto Check Engine Light Code Reader Diagnostic Scan Tool Supports Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, Car Scanner App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7YKXV0VTWY1PEFVHDPST?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I use on my 2017 LEAF.
Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner for Android, Car OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool Check Engine Light Code Reader, Supports Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, DashCommand, Car Scanner App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7ZZDTGYH1YX17AWHYVC3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have a Bluetooth code reader that I use. This is a similar one, I used to have it but gave it away.
Then you can download Torgue Pro or similar to read the codes.
Bluetooth scanners only work on Android phones though. I have an Android head unit, and I keep the code reader plugged in so I can monitor the few things I can monitor on my 80 Series.
Also if you take the car into Auto Zone or someplace, they will read your codes for you.
Take it to auto zone and have them read it. Also it's worth investing in one of these.
Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner for Android, Car OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool Check Engine Light Code Reader, Supports Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, DashCommand, Car Scanner App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NFQ7ESR3E9JJ9R2TFBCQ
Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner for Android, Car OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool Check Engine Light Code Reader, Supports Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, DashCommand, Car Scanner App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CE0AF10Q2SGHFPN5S0TX
Cheap and ez
It can analyze the known exposed sensors, which report on pairs of cells. You can narrow down issues to one of two cells which you can further diagnose with a volt meter.
I've bought three of these and all three have worked. It's one of the recommended models on the Dr. Prius site.
Note that an OBD2 to BT connection can be flaky at first. I've owned a handful of different adapters (and helped friends with others) and pairing has always been a pain in the ass. Be patient. After the initial pairing and connections I've never had any problems unless I've moved it to another vehicle.
People are saying this one works with the Leaf. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
I'd lend you mine but I accidentally sold it with my last car. For next time, I highly recommend these. You can leave it in the car and use your phone next time you run into issues.
$13 bluetooth OBD2 adapter, and free Torque app. Then you can test almost anyones car anytime. I leave it in my glove box. Stupid handy and its only 2"x3"x4" approx and the app is tiny too.
Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner for Android, Car OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool Check Engine Light Code Reader, Supports Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, DashCommand, Car Scanner App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_NNTDKR9Z0SV3XW6WVTZG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Know what's too cheap, yet might be all someone needs?
Laugh all you want, but I was able to turn off that annoying reverse beep in my prius with that and a free app. That's a $75 job the dealership wanted to charge!
Buy one, keep it in your glovebox, who knows it might save the day some time.
And I'm of the mindset that a kick ass scan tool should be shop equipment not a personal tool. But they've become so necessary that I can see the drawbacks of having to share, especially if it's 1 scanner in an entire 12, 24, 48 bay shop But thats getting into a whole mother can of worms. I mean miners don't buy their own pickaxes, drs don't buy dialysis machines...
I guess I was a little high on the price. This one is $13. The "Torque" app is free in android or apple store. https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bluetooth+obd2&qid=1614737517&sr=8-5
Not sure what your real question is with this thread, honestly.
You're asking us if the mechanic made an honest mistake? We don't know, mate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_X0CRFb1RWA0GV
Buy that. Make sure it compatible with your phone (will work with android i know)
Download the free app on your phone, then find out what the codes are
invest in a cheap OBDII scanner like this one and an application like Torque. With the two you can read and then google fault codes when you get a check engine light. With that knowledge going into the shop you can see if your mechanic is giving you an honest diagnosis
(for the record that is not the OBD Scanned I own, just the one that came up first on Amazon I make no recommendation on that make/model)
Amazon. Get a Bluetooth one, along with torque app. There's a bunch of vehicle specific apps too.
Android can be Bluetooth or WiFi, iPhone needs it to be a WiFi obd module.
This is the unit I use. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YQgtDbRWCVX9M
I bought this dongle and downloaded the dr prius/ dr hybrid app onto my phone (android) plug in, key on engine off, sync to phone, start app, click the check box, shut off and unplug, test.
hello, can i recommend a cheap scan tool such as this to find the code and diagnose from there. good luck.
Best thing to do is to get an OBDII scanner. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A but they're really all pretty much the same.
The app Torque will connect and run the scan for free (additional features in the paid version but the trouble code check is in the base).
This will at least let you know why the light is/was on.
For what it's worth, I recommend getting a scanner such as this along with the Torque app on your phone. It's about the same price as a cheap scanner from your local auto shop, but it's much more compact, and also gives loads more info than one of the cheap ones.
It's one of those things that I just keep plugged in my car (unplug it when I won't be using my car for an extended period of time), and whenever I do need it I'm ready to go. Definitely recommend doing something like this, if only for peace of mind.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PvHjFbDMJCGD6
This could be a good solution for you. Get this and get Torque app on your smart phone/tablet. There is a lot of info you can look at with this. And it goes from car to car. Faster and easier than most anything else.
Good question. I'm not sure what all different OBD2 scanners are out there, but I made sure to get one that can connect to an app.
Veepeak makes decent ones. I have a pricier version than that one, but it looks like this one has decent reviews too.
I have a 2008 Xb. Had a similar issue where my ABS, Traction Control, and Check Engine lights all came on. A quick way to diagnose what's going on is to get an OBD2 plug that connects to your phone. I have an Android phone so I downloaded an app called Torque and bought one of these OBD2 plugs from Amazon. The app will scan your diagnostic systems and report back an error code. In my case it was my O2 sensor that was giving me the error code. O2 sensor is common, also things like mass air flow or knock sensors I would give you something like what you are seeing. Hope this helps.
I was able to kill the beep with the Dr prius app for only the price of a obd2 dongle from Amazon
One dealer said they wouldn't do it because toyota told them not to for liability reasons, another wanted $75 to do it.
I used the Dr prius app to shut off that annoying reverse beep! Only cost me the price of an obd2 dongle from Amazon
Meanwhile one dealership lied and said "Toyota forbids us from adjusting the reverse beep because of liability reasons" and another dealership said "sure we can adjust it, $75!"
We would need a code in order to determine what to do. You can go to an auto shop and borrow a scanner or buy one, they are fairly cheap, under $20 and can be purchased from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=OBDII+scanner+bluetooth&qid=1578233426&sr=8-8
Pardon my ignorance but when there's an Android version and an Android/iOS version, is there a difference? My understanding was that Bluetooth was universal and the OS didn't matter? Are they just trying to get more money our of iOS consumers?
https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A/
Also, thanks for the tip!
As they've said, any decently reviewed cheap adapter will work.
I have one very similar to this that I paid maybe 15 dollars for.
I've only had two codes pop up and they were 1) when I unplugged my MAF sensor when I moved my airbox to change my transmission fluid and 2) when my brake switch stopped working (yes, it actually threw a code!). I was able to take the code and do some googling to figure things out.
This is great for easy stuff, but if you're getting codes for something serious like a cylinder misfire you'll have to take it to the dealer or put down a few thousand for the Mazda interface computer.
Buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Automotive-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B011NSX27A/ and read the codes. It is a $13 OBDII reader that interfaces wirelessly with your phone or computer.
Keep it in your car, they are great to have anyway.
Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBD II Scanner Car Engine Code Reader for Android Windows, Automotive Check Engine Light Diagnostic Tool for 1996 and Newer Vehicles in the US, Supports Torque App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zHJ0zbXM253K7
Edit: works well in my '13 with S7
Yes. Any $20 OBD reader.
I bought this one awhile back and it is all I use now. Much more convenient than the corded ones. And whatever app you use will probably give you the code information instead of having to look it up, as well.
Yup, even less - I bought a cheap one for like $12 and it ended up working ok-ish with basic phone app, but was detected as a "Cheap clone" on PC based laptop software.
This one however, I think I paid $18 for at the time has worked great on all platforms and software:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Agreed that it's super useful for CEL (anyone who's thinking of buying one, I got this one - it's $11.99 and works like a charm), guess I was just hoping that all this other data would be useful for a semi-layman like myself. Guess it can't hurt to at least familiarize myself with them and what the proper readings should be for my make/model.
I love Mitchell and Webb by the way - wish I could give you an extra upvote for that username!
Here, it's an obd reader that you plug into your obd port. Download the torque app and you can read your voltage among other gauges if thier info is on the data lines.
If your going to get it, make sure you select the one I listed for Android or select the wifi one for iOS.
Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII EOBD Scanner Adapter Automotive Check Engine Light Diagnostic Code Reader for Android Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Slwsyb0S79RKZ
No problem. I actually bought an Android tablet for the Torque app...assuming you're using an Apple device?
The reason I got the Android device was because with Apple, you can only use Wifi OBD2's. The Bluetooth has too many restrictions for the OBD2 connection to work. But Android works.
For the Bluetooth connection, I'm honestly not sure how many devices you can have connected at once, and I don't want to give you a wrong answer. Sorry.
Here is the sensor I got:
Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII EOBD Scanner Adapter Automotive Check Engine Light Diagnostic Code Reader for Android Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G7vsybDQWCKFQ
Pro-tip: Check engine lights are usually pretty easily repaired, but can indicate serious malfunctions inside your engine, and can cause all sorts of cascading problems down the line.
Since 1996, the OBD-II Interface has been standardized and is required in every vehicle sold in the US. So if you have a car in America, made after 1996 - you can do the following:
You can get one of these and an app on iOS/Android, and monitor all sorts of sensor information from your engine, as well as check and clear check engine light codes! It's very cool, and is something I use to monitor the health and performance of my engine on a daily basis.
The total investment is less than $20, and can grant a lot of peace-of-mind.
Something left out of this video that's important is an OBDII scanner, assuming the vehicle is 1996 and newer. If you've already got a smartphone, getting a bluetooth reader off of Ebay/Amazon is inexpensive. It also helps with diagnosing future issues.
No problem, if you are quite worried I recommend that you purchase a Bluetooth OBDII scanner. They pair directly to Android phones and show you exactly what your engine is doing at all times through apps like Torque. They are cheap too, around $20. Your call though as I am 99.9% certain the variation is 100% normal. I spoke to a mechanic at work about the vibration and he says that he has a fairly simple test. If the car vibrates while in park or in gear at a red light, it may be the fault of the transmission mounts. If it stops or gets less noticeable when put in neutral, it may be the engine mounts. There are many other possibilities like timing chains being off but as I said before, hard to tell without physically seeing the vehicle. Here's a link to the OBDII tool if interested. Hope you get everything sorted out!
After rewatching the video, meltedsurfwax may be on to something. Sounds almost like loose trim. Didn't see videos before due to being on mobile.
anything after 95 will play nice with the basic info
just make sure you buy one with good reviews like this one
Get it scanned for codes!
Take it to a shop!
Don't just guess and drive it into the ground!
Get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader to keep in your car and use in conjunction with the Torque App on your phone so you can be more prepared for the future. This is for Android.
Apple needs a WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using different Bluetooth. You will also need to use a different code reading app.
Just buy one. They are cheap, and useful. Amazon
Goes well with the Torque app
> Thanks for your reply. Will the car start at all, if the gas is bad? Forgive my ignorance, but what do I do if it doesn't?
The car will attempt to start and may even sound like it's running at first.
This is because the large Hybrid Battery spins the motor at idling speeds 1,000+ rpms, much faster than a conventional car's starter motor at 200 or so rpms.
It may sound really rough when it's doing this but will try it's best to start. It will do this until either the Hybrid Battery is dead, (which is already possible considering it sat so long) or a no start condition code is thrown.
> Forgive my ignorance, but what do I do if it doesn't?
Well if it doesn't start because of bad gas, you will need to drain the gas from the vehicle and put fresh gas in. This will be done by disconnecting the fuel line that is connected to the fuel tank and running the fuel pump that sends gas to the fuel injectors. So at this point you'll likely need a tow to the mechanic.
> Also, I have read that a prius battery should not be charged with anything that is higher than 3 amps? Is this really true?
Not that I'm aware. That might be true for individual cells within the Large Hybrid Battery but for the 12v battery 5-10 amps is no big deal.
If you plan on trying to use your current dead 12v, you should run the repair cycle several times before attempting to start the vehicle if you choose to use the NOCO charger. The repair cycle takes 4 hours each session. There is no way it's going to hold a charge correctly sitting dead for so long if you don't.
Also, it may be wise to invest in a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App for Android Smartphone phones to read any codes that appear. A good future investment for piece of mind as well.
If you're using Apple, get yourself A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using different Bluetooth.
You will also need a different code reading app as Torque is not available on the App store. Just search "OBD II Code reading app. There are lots of choices.
Correct. Something like this.
use this tool to check for any faults.
This is the cheap one I got. The box for it says that it works with the app they suggested but I will confirm sometime soon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_GGWQFb9VVC0V6
That's the one I use. $16 is cheap, so if the one you see is the one you want, go for it
I got mine off of Amazon. I paired it with an app called Torque and it's worked great for me.
Related to this, maybe not for OP's situation but I personally recommend getting your own OBD2 scanner. Specifically one with bluetooth functionality that can interact with the Torque app for smartphones. Here is the specific reader that I have. It's small enough that I either just leave it plugged into the OBD2 port or if I won't be driving my car for a while, I just leave it in the glovebox. It's dead useful to be able to help anyone with code issues on the spot, not to mention it can of course give much more detailed real time info from the different sensors in the car.
The downside I feel I need to mention is it can be a bit difficult to figure out how to add the various sensor readings you may be interested in, but presumably you're already fairly decent at searching online if you're looking for specific sensor reading to troubleshoot a problem, so it shouldn't be too difficult to figure out how to get whichever reading you need to appear on the Torque app.
If anyone is interested in getting their own OBD2 reader, do note you don't want to mess with the super cheap ones you can buy from walmart/autozone for $10-$15. All they do is give you the barebones minimum info, and can pretty much only show you codes. Other than that they don't do much, not to mention they're pretty bulky.
>1- that my gas mileage gauge is acting weird, it’ll show that I have 380 miles on the tank when I fill up, I’ve never had that good of a tank even fresh off the lot...sometimes it’ll change a lot, you’ll see it switch between like 240/256/242/265, my gallon ticks are usually pretty accurate but it’ll occasionally sporadically change too.
Next time you fill up, reset the average fuel economy ("AVG") by holding down the SET/CLR button when viewing that in the gauge cluster. Then see how accurate it is after you've driven through a whole tank and filled up again. I reset mine about every three months because my fuel economy seems to change based on the weather. I usually average about 30 mpg in the winter and about 33 mpg in the summer.
>2- my speedometer will sporadically change 0/1 while idling at a stop light, it doesn’t happen all the time, but it does happen.
Your vehicle speed sensor may be going bad. It's a $10-15 part and pretty easy to replace. Do you have an automatic transmission? Try putting it into neutral while stopped and see if problem goes away.
>3- very rarely, but sometimes when I start my car after it’s been off for the night, it’ll shake a lot and throw the check engine light...I’ll turn the car off and then back on and it’ll go back to normal...the ignition coil, spark plugs and the knock sensor are all brand new.
This is very likely the evap purge solenoid. Another inexpensive part and relatively easy to replace, although it's a pain in the thumbs to try and remove. Do you "top off" your gas tank when filling up? Don't do that! It causes the evap purge diaphragm to go bad prematurely.
>I’m wondering if I just need to bite the bullet and take it into the shop, or if there’s something I can do? OBD shows no errors.
If you're handy and comfortable working on cars, these are pretty good low-difficulty things to address yourself. You might want to get a Bluetooth OBD-II adapter and then use the Torque app (or similar) to check and clear the codes. Much cheaper than a handheld reader from the auto parts stores, plus you can use the Torque app to view other info like coolant temp and boost pressure (two gauges the Sonic sadly does not have).
Edit: also, regarding #2, check your engine and transmission mounts. At nearly 100k miles they may need to be replaced. This is a bit more difficult since you have to properly support the engine while replacing them.
I bought this Bluetooth one a while ago and it has been working great.
https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A/
> We've been having trouble with our 2010 Prius. When started every icon on the dash lights up like a Christmas tree. However I know none of these things are actual issues as the car is running just fine.
> feel fairly confident they are just trying to get me to pay for the most expensive possible repair because the lights on the dash.
Yes you're Prius has a problem... especially if all the lights on the dash are continually on. Just because it runs fine doesn't mean something isn't wrong. There should be specific codes that relate to these lights. Ask the Toyota Delaer what the specific codes are and to show you.
They might be upselling you and the actual problem may be much less expensive. Also how you had all these dash lights on and the original mechanic you took it to found no error codes stored makes no sense.
There is definitely something wrong... but you need to get the codes first...
It could be something as simple as a blown fuse causing the dash lights + keyless start not to work.
For the future so you aren't so unprepared, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
It might take a few drive cycles to go away as sometimes problems like a leaky gas cap (EVAP Leak) will be intermitten.
The computer is programmed this way as to not constantly turn the check engine light on and off. If you has a code reader of your own.... you could just clear the check engine light yourself with the tool
For the future, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
Alright first thing you need to do is pull the codes.
For the future so you aren't so unprepared, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
Come codes des can only be read with a High End Scan-tool or Toyota Techstream.
But honestly I don't know how to solve your problem though.... so here is everything Prius related I can give you to fix it:
Video showing my Brake Accumulator functioning normally.
Video showing Brake Accumulator failure.
Berryman B-12 Piston Soak Procedure on Reddit
Screenshots of others effected by this LOW MPG Mechanism
3-way coolant valve noise. this sounds a bit more similar.
Here's an inverter pump failure noise.
LeafSpy is a hardware piece that plugs into the ODBC II (sp?) of your Leaf. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A
And then a software piece, an app for your phone, to read the output.
There is not a lot on what the gathered data means, and it seems like it may have limited usefulness. But I had used this as a reference
You may have had low oil as well... but I believe your problem is likely the inverter overheating... this will also cause the Red Triangle, check engine light and power loss... and more specifically cause the AC to shut off.
The Inverter regulates all High Voltage electricity in the vehicle. From running the AC, Charging the HV Battery, and driving the Electric Motors. As it overheats... it will throttle back power and turn off the AC until temp lowers... and trigger the red triangle.
If it were engine oil... You'll usually notice quick flashes of the red triangle several times that last a split second due to oil pressure loss. Then it will eventually stay on and your engine will explode. If you checked the oil immediately after shutting off the engine... it will appear lower than it actually is due to oil still clinging to all the engine parts. Best to wait at least 10-15 minutes
Best solution is to see what the codes say.
For the future so you aren't so unprepared, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
You are not supposed to jump start other vehicles with the Prius as the 12v system is not designed to jump conventional vehicles.
The 12v in the Prius is only for powering on computers and then the Hybrid Battery starts the engine. The 12v system was not designed for the high 12v current draw that conventional vehicles requires when starting.
So you may have damaged something.... or it could be completely unrelated. It might just be a blown fuse. But the most essential thing is getting codes read... and then checking fuses
If you are living out of your vehicle you should at the very least have a code reader.
For the future so you aren't so unprepared, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
You'll need to get it diagnosed.
It also sounds like your combination meter has failed as well. Extremely common failure on the Gen 2 Prius. There is a capacitor that needs to be replaced on the combination meter board as it wasn't engineered with degradation in mind. This was an oversight by Toyota... all Gen 2 combo meters will fail at some point.
Fixing the combo meter might fix you're non-starting issue but usually the combo meter not starting doesn't cause other problems.
Maybe you ran it low on gas too many times and damaged the fuel pump... lots of things it could be. But since the computers still turn on... start with getting codes read.
For the future so you aren't so unprepared, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They aren't USB, they're bluetooth and link to any ODB2 app you put on your phone, like Car Scanner or Torque. They work like a charm.
It sounds like you are having some strange issues. Codes again here would be helpful. The best thing to do at this point is to make sure you find someone competent to fix the issue.
If you can get the codes it'd be easier to make a suggestion. The Hybrid Battery fan running on high is something that does occur when the Hybrid Battery is failing... but again codes would be useful.
It is very strange in your last post that your codes showed low 12v voltage and speed sensor errors. I'm still of the opinion something deeper is going on electrically... like a loose 12v battery terminal. But impossible to say for sure over the internet.
For the future so you aren't so unprepared, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
Very strange that both your Prii do that.
Get codes read as other user said. That is where you should start.
But just guessing here... Would both your Prii happen to have different size wheels in front and back? This might upset the wheel speed sensors at high speeds and could cause the ABS Codes your experiencing.
For the future, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
Could be any number of things. Having more hard data will be the most help. Do you have a OBD2 scan tool? Even a cheap Bluetooth one from Amazon would help much more than having nothing at all. I personally have an OBDeleven Pro (because VAG-COM is still pretty damn expensive):
Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD II Scanner for Android, Auto Check Engine Light Code Reader Diagnostic Scan Tool Supports Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, Car Scanner App https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_QKFT2C4JK73E7RXSFM2K
It would be cheaper for an independent mechanic to do it. But make sure they can do it right. If you bought a used brake accumulator and an independent mechanic who knew what they were doing could fix it... you could probably get it done for under a $1,000 if everything goes accordingly.
Also.... For the future so you aren't so unprepared, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
Could literally be 100's of things...
For the future so you aren't so unprepared, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
Nope. You need to fix anything mechanical first. Also 22"s would be too much for this car IMO. They just look tacky and you're also going to be dealing with a harsher ride with the low profile tires. The tires would also be pricey. If you want to mess around a bit have you thought about /r/plastidip for your current wheels just to mix things up a bit? There's tons of cool colors you could go with. I think some gunmetal type color with a glossifier finish would look sharp. Have you tried restoring those headlights yet? Some of those products really do work. Check out some youtube reviews of the various headlight restoration products. Personally before I did anything aesthetically I would see what codes you're throwing.
You can take to any autozone type chain store and get a free scan but better yet order this scanner. Or this conventional scanner. It's the best $12-$22 you'll ever spend. With the bluetooth scanner you can get an app like Torque that lets you see every single detail from sensors in real time and set it up with whatever gauges you want. That BT scanner is android only but there's iOS options too. I like to use an old phone and set it up in a little hands free mount to have the gauges there at all time. It lets you drag and drop whatever types of info readouts/gauges of various sizes. It's super fun to just play around with honestly. This combo is ideal (the best deal by like $6 too) and what a couple of my friends have grabbed after seeing my BT scanner.
Alot of them are generic, my guess is this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_W9ZTZPKB5FR8KBPTMVDS
For the future you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
You can use the code reader to see what the random light flashes mean and maybe get to a deeper diagnosis of what's happening. You can also monitor the Hybrid Battery with Dr. Prius.
Get Codes read.
For the future so you aren't so unprepared, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
You need to get codes read/your issue diagnosed. If you want to destroy your car... keep doing what you're doing. Your Prius is suffering from a catastrophic failure condition.
My first guess would be intermitten inverter pump failure and your inverter is overheating as a result, causing the Red Triangle 🔺️ and emergency shutdown.
For the future so you aren't so unprepared, you can get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If on Apple, you will need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth. You will also need to download a different a different Code reading App. Any reputable one will do.
TOP DEAL!
33% OFF!
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Veepeak Bluetooth OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner for Android
https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A
So the Red Triangle is still on then? And topping off the oil didn't fix it?
Next step would be to read codes. Be weary of driving with the red triangle 🔺️ . It means catastrophic failure of something important. Oil level was the most immediate concern.
Now the next most common thing would probably be the inverter pump. But it could be many things.
For the future, get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App or other code reading app.
If on Apple, you will need a WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using mewer Bluetooth.
You can get OBDII code readers that connect to your phone with bluetooth, then get the torque pro app and realtime charts for torque pro. I haven't tried realtime charts personally but I think this will get what you need for <$30.
​
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en\_CA&gl=US
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pjt.realtimecharts\_v1&hl=en\_CA&gl=US
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner for Android,… | $13.98 | $13.98 | 4.4/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
I just got q cheap bluetooth one on off amazon.
Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner for Android, Car OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool Check Engine Light Code Reader, Supports Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, DashCommand, Car Scanner App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_WNPWCNXQ87FZQ3RE50SD
Used the dr prius app here an article on it buy you can youtube it and follow it in q video too
https://www.torquenews.com/8113/how-understand-toyota-prius-battery-health-using-dr-prius-app
Any Autozone in MN will read codes for free if you ask nicely. Or, check amazon https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A/
I've been using this adapter for a couple of years and it has worked great. I use the torque pro app and it has a customizable gauge cluster but there is also a torque lite app that will probably work for your needs for free.
> 12 bars is a super strong battery, like new.
The first bar represents a 15% loss in battery capacity. So, a Leaf could be down to ~86% battery health and still show 12 bars.
>Let the bars guide you, lol !
Invest the $10-$20 in an OBD2 dongle and download the free version of LeafSpy. It will give you more accurate data than the dash display for making a purchase decision. And, you can continue to use it to monitor your battery health after you buy.
> 12 bars is a super strong battery, like new.
The first bar represents a 15% loss in battery capacity. So, a Leaf could be down to ~86% battery health and still show 12 bars.
>Let the bars guide you, lol !
Invest the $10-$20 in an OBD2 dongle and download the free version of LeafSpy. It will give you more accurate data than the dash display for making a purchase decision. And, you can continue to use it to monitor your battery health after you buy.
I use a Bluetooth Code Reader with Android.
If using apple, you'll need A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using different Bluetooth.
I personally use the Torque App over Dr. Prius for normal monitoring of the vehicle. A lot more you can do with it.
But Dr. Prius is good for testing the HV Battery. No reason you can't use both. They each have their strengths.
> When I attempt to shift into drive or reverse, it just goes to neutral. The red triangle and the problem indicators come on. When I plug in my scanner and clear the codes, the car turns on and runs fine.
This means it's probably something different than the 12v, or possibly a bad 12v is causing weird error codes preventing the car from driving. But you don't usually see clearing codes fixing all the issue, then the car runs perfectly.
First you need to check all 12v electrical connections and 12v battery health. The 12v may very well be your problem if you find something amiss.
If it's not that get a Bluetooth Code Readerand use with Torque App or other compatible app.
Apple will need A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using newer Bluetooth.
Then read the codes and see what they're saying. You could have a deeper problem.
The noises you are hearing are completely normal.
You are hearing the normal electric background whirring from the Inverter/High Voltage electronics as well as the AC compressor/radiators fans cycling.
The cycling noise of the AC compressor will stop if your turn off the AC from the cabin.
You need to get codes read.
For the future, get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader to keep in your car and use in conjunction with the Torque App to read codes.
If using Iphone you will need a WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using different Bluetooth.
Don't drive it anywhere until you know what's going on.
The Red Triangle of Death is for catastrophic failures.
When you say issues shifting do you mean while driving?
The Prius doesn't shift gears, it's always in gear and recieves power from 2 Motor Generators and the Engine.
If the Battery is low on juice or failing, the engine will rev really high so maybe that's what you mean.
Or maybe you have a slow transmission fluid leak and you've fried your transmission.
We can guess all day what's going on but get codes read.
There are literally dozens if not 100's of things it could be from the symptoms you describe.
For the future, get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App for Android to read check engine light codes.
If on IPhone, you will need A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using different Bluetooth.
You'll also need an alternate code reading app besides Torque.
Probably yes since the red triangle isn't on.
For the future get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App for your Android phone so you can give yourself a better idea of what's happening without a dealership/mechanic.
For Apple you'll need a A WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using different Bluetooth. You'll also need a different code reading app as iOS doesn't have Torque as far as I'm aware..
Honestly it sounds like you're doing all the right things.
I can't be of much help because I've never dealt with dealerships for much of anything. Only local mechanics and myself because I do 99% of my own vehicle work now.
Can't trust anyone but yourself in this world.
I don't really know what else to suggest.
The only thing I can say is start becoming more car aware and maybe learn how to do your own maintenance/repairs if you have the time and space for it. Start watching YouTube videos about cars and how they work in your spare time or when eating.
I knew basically nothing about cars 5 years ago just like you.
Started with doing oil changes and brake jobs after buying a car repair manual, tools, and watching YouTube videos about how to do the vehicle repairs and how they work.
Now after many different repairs and about $2-2.5k of investment in tools over the past 5 years, I can essentially do any repair besides removing the engine or transmission from the vehicle. I also know exactly what's happening with my Prius when I'm driving. Makes me a safer, better, and more aware driver.
But for now one thing you can do to be more prepared is get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader to keep in your car and use in conjunction with the Torque App for android.
If on apple, you will need a WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using different Bluetooth. You'll also need a different code reading app as iOS doesn't have Torque as far as I'm aware.
You can just keep the code reader in the car and the next time a check engine light comes on you can plug it in and read the code. Most code reading apps will give a link to a website that gives an in depth description of what the code means, what could be causing it, and what it'll take to fix it.
You'll have to decide if you're up to going full blown shade tree mechanic. But the code reader is a good place to start.
Get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader and use in conjunction with the Torque App on your phone to read and clear codes. If you have Apple, you will need a WiFi OBDII Code Reader or a more expensive Bluetooth OBDII Code Reader due to iOS using different Bluetooth. You'll also need a different code reading app. There's tons on the App Store, just find one with good reviews.
Nope, sorry I didn't see this earlier - a Bluetooth one is what you'll want to use it with the phone app. I use this one - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_ZXY5CP25KXHBS0QQHBBT
Yeah gonna need to get codes. Lots of things it could be.
Get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader to keep in your car and use in conjunction with the Torque App or similar so you can diagnose future problems on your own.
Could be lots of things. Dash lights don't tell much of the story by themselves.
From left to right you have the Master Warning Triangle, Low Tire Pressure, Vehicle Stability Control, and Check Engine Lights on.
This could be so many different things without any further explanation of symptoms other than dash lights.
You'll need to get codes read or take to someone who knows how to diagnose car problems and go from there.
For the future, get yourself a Bluetooth Code Reader to keep in your car and use in conjunction with the Torque App or similar so you can answer the question of "what is causing these dash lights?" Yourself.
Gosh I'm sorry you're having this much trouble. I wish I could look at it myself.
One thing I would do is disconnect and reconnect the the 12v battery again. This might clear any codes that are still causing issues but no guarantee on this being a fix.
Could also be more blown fuses somewhere still unless you had all of them checked.
Also check and make sure there's no standing water under the trunk in the spare tire area. The rear hatch area on these Gen 2 Prius can leak water into the back and short things out. It's a a super easy fix though. It's likely not this anyways just something that came to mind.
You could buy a Bluetooth Code Reader and use it with Torque App on your phone. This isn't a super comprehensive code reader setup but might give some answers. Also a useful cheap tool to have for the future that you can use with any vehicle.
If you really wanted to be able to read deep into what's going on, you'd have to buy Toyota Techstream and use it with a laptop.
>I talked to a Toyota mechanic on the phone, and he suggested I try to put some gas in it, as I was on my last bar and it was possible that the fuel gauge sensor had been glitchy, thus I had run out of gas.
The car shouldn't have shut down if you ran put of gas, it should have thrown an engine no start code probably with the Red Triangle and then driven until the hybrid battery was completely dead. You also would have heard the engine constantly try to start.
>However, after putting the additional gas inside of it, instead of fixing the problem, it actually CHANGED the problem. The *red triangle of death was no longer visible, yet the VCS, parking light, check engine light, with the added indicator lights of ABS and the slip indicator (which indicates that the VCS is working, from what I have seen while researching) were shown as well.*
It's normal for all the dash lights to be on if you put the car into ignition on mode. Unless they look different than mine.
Pic of my Prius dash just now in Ignition On mode.
The power modes go Accessory<Ignition On<Ready.
>What is weird is when I held my foot on the brake to imitate starting the engine/hybrid battery, it only acted as if it were turning on the electronics. When I would start it without foot on the brake (to turn on electronics), and then put foot on brake and press power button again, the car would shut off.
Yeah you'll need to get codes before anything else. Could be a lot of things.
If the car is not starting, something integral to the car's operation went kaput. It's a limp mode behavior to preserve itself from further damage.
>Personally, my guess would be a new battery is needed, yet I'm not sure why these other indications would be presented.
Could always be the 12v but I find it unlikely this is the main issue because it at least will go into accessory mode. Something electrical could just be f'd as well. Maybe a short somewhere that caused a blown fuse to where the car won't start now.
For the future, get one of these Bluetooth OBD II Code Readers to keep in your car and use it with the Torque App or similar OBD II app.
Topping off oil shouldn't make a noticeable smell in the vehicle cabin unless you really make a mess under the hood. How low do you let the oil get before topping off?
There's so many things it could be at this point.
You need to get codes read immediately and I would not drive it since it shifts itself into neutral. That's a serious limp mode behavior and indicative of something being very wrong.
Could be transmission or inverter related, possibly overheating. But again, get codes and you are risking serious damage to your car driving it any further until you know what is wrong.
Get a Bluetooth Code Reader for the future to keep in your car so you can do some basic diagnostic work yourself. Use this with the Torque app on your phone or similar OBD II code reader app
2017 Nissan Leaf S here and use the OBD II linked below with no issues with LeafSpy Lite. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_JD0BXGTE4HQ5FKRGSGD7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Mine was $13 but if you can get to an auto parts store they usually scan for free
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_37flFbCE512P8
I also use Torque Pro with one of these. Have you tried searching for another app that might work?
I'm using EVNotify with this $11 adapter from Amazon.
Sounds like overpriced horse shit to me.
This is $10 (compared to $100 for the BlueDriver) and it works with Dr Prius, Hybrid Assistant, Torque, etc.
> What Makes BlueDriver Different
> >More Codes
> >Read all the codes the other scan tools read and the ones they don't.
Huh? Codes the other scan tools don't? The car turns on your check engine light and reports an alphanumeric error code. There are no codes that scan tools don't read that I've ever heard of. Different cars have different sensors exposed. For example, in the Prius you can read tons of information about the HV system through an ODBII port. You don't need an expensive ODBII reader for this. Torque has PID databases for Priuses that will allow you to read all of these "hidden" sensors and apps like Dr. Prius are made specifically to interface with them.
>> Get the Confirmed Fix
>> No more Googling for unreliable fixes that waste your time and money. Using the same Identifix database professional shops use, BlueDriver will match your vehicle's issue to a verified fix from a database of over 30 million solutions.
This is pretty laughably stupid. Mechanics use the internet, too. Calling Google results unreliable wastes of time and money is ridiculous hyperbole.
Pretty much all the benefits of this thing are software features that can be had from any dongle with the right software. It seems like they're comparing this thing to traditional ODBII reading units instead of other BT units with various app pairings.
I keep a dongle from Automatic.com installed for metrics and I keep the above Veepak dongle around for more advanced troubleshooting. I've been making heavy use of it over the last week as I finally suffered my first battery failure. I can't think of any reason I'd spend $100 on that BlueDriver thing.
Also reccomend Torque pro but I bought this adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8CX2CbZ7MA1NK
I have no idea. I bought this one, and it works fine for me. I previously bought a couple other chinese imports off ebay that didn't work.
Yes, I have my phone connected to SYNC and use the Torque app at the same time without any issues.
My bad : Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII EOBD Scanner Adapter Automotive Check Engine Light Diagnostic Code Reader for Android Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_0viSybDPM03EG
As opposed to Excelvan v1.5 Bluetooth Mini Small Interface OBD2 Scanner Adapter Torque Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007P14NPU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_XwiSybD7NGCEX
The excelvan was dropping the BT way too often..almost every drive (phone: htc one m8)
I got this one and paired it with the torque pro app. Works great. Can't go wrong for under $20 total.
I bought this;
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use it with the torque app. It's awesome! Is there something similar for iphone? If not, go get a used Android phone off a friend.
Get one of these and a corresponding app.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cBKqxbQT2B8GJ
Can even get a cheap dedicated Android phone.
I have an Android set up for under $20. If you have Apple, the prices for hardware and software will be slightly higher.
This is the Bluetooth tool I am using, only $12: http://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Scanner-Automotive-Diagnostic/dp/B011NSX27A
You can use TorqueLite to read the codes, but for only $6 you can get OBDFusion. It can read the codes, plus it can log a bunch of parameters as you are driving. https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion
I got these based on recommendation from a guru on a BMW forum. When people experience driveability issues he requests logs, and then can provide advise on whether you have issues with O2 sensors, fuel pressure, or vacuum leaks. You could spend more money on diagnostic tools, but I have not felt the need to upgrade my set up yet.
Would a ODBII(for $12!!) work?
How do these compare to something like this and a phone app like Torque?
If you have an Android get the torque app for five bucks.
$13 Bluetooth ODBII Code Reader from Amazon.
For less than twenty bucks you have more features, and easier updates, than a $200+ code-reader you find in an auto-parts store.
As everyone has said, buy what you need as you go.
But there's a couple of caveats. Get a set of easy outs and something like these if you can find them. Both can be an absolute life saver.
A cheap $15 obd bluetooth adapter and a $5 app call torque pro can read and reset trouble codes, display real time data, and check if the readiness test have completed.
And finally, if you find yourself needing something, see if you can find the same tool in a set. I've seen individual wrenches that were about a third to a quarter the cost of a set. The same wrench was in the set. It'll depend on the tool and the cost, but I've done this a few times with things like O2 sensor sockets, axle nut sockets, and things like that.
You could pop one of these guys in your car and see if it spits out any codes that you can lookup yourself
but it's not a full proper diagnostic like a professional would provide, of course. Nifty tool for $20 still.
This tool is slightly over $10: http://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Scanner-Automotive-Diagnostic/dp/B011NSX27A
Combined with OBDFusion for $6 you can have those logs you have described. I'm not sure why you think Bluetooth devices have to be in $100 range. I actually bought one for $5, and it looks like it's the same as my $10 Veepeak, and it works just the same.
What features of Hum do you value?
Want to read OBDII data on your phone? There's a non-subscription device for that: http://amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/
Want the Bluetooth speaker? There's loads of non-subscription devices for that.
For me, tracking car data is something that Verizon doesn't need to be involved in.