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That's ok, it's very common to mix them up so I wanted to double check! Heat mats need thermostats because they tend to overheat easily. This one is my favorite. Set it to 92F, plug the heat mat into it, and put the probe on the ground in the tank over the mat and below the bulb. It'll turn the mat off when it gets too hot. If you need a dimmer for your heat lamp, they make plug in dimmer attachments and Fluker's makes a dimming fixture.
Crickets are hard to catch! Yeah 20 gallons is good, and 40 is even better if you're up for it! That's awesome that you already know about thermostats. This one is my favorite and has worked really well for me. I've upgraded to deep heat projectors which I definitely recommend since they are more active with them, but this heat mat thermostat still works after three years when I need it (it was used constantly for about a year and a half).
If you haven't already seen it, the pinned beginner's guide has a lot of good information on supplements, heating, substrate, etc. so you don't forget anything!
I am using 10 of these. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI?pd_rd_w=2rtQe&pf_rd_p=cb335323-1c34-41e9-9be4-1577c64bd1ea&pf_rd_r=R0CRG7WZ111GVJSZMP92&pd_rd_r=dbd3b81f-4191-4a5d-a493-63f1932dabfc&pd_rd... they are the cheapest ones on amazon but they works
The BIGGEST impact to getting to successful prints for me was keeping temperature at 30-33 C. I’m in California so it’s never too cold, but this was key for me (using Elegoo Plant-based, but presumably applies to many more).
I used an old, small, portable fan heater pointed at the covered printer from a short distance, connected to a temperature sensor-triggered outlet (VIVOSUN Digital Heat Mat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F4VFGI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share), and then carefully draped a thin blanket over the printer and edges of heater (so as not to block intake fan and start a fire) to create a cheap “enclosure” but a proper grow tent may be safer.
It kicks heater on whenever temp is below my set point. Worked wonders for me.
There is a $18 device you can wire up to a heat source will turn the heat on and off to maintain a particular temperature.
Like this, as an example:
VIVOSUN Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Temperature Controller 40–108 ºF for Seedlings, Germination, Rooting, Fermentation and Reptiles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F4VFGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_W6BBT2FNJ0GFT6Z87YMV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You just need to add a heat source, could be a lightbulb in a glass jar with crumpled foil in the bottom.
Is your heat mat on a thermostat? If not, do it asap - I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015F4VFGI/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
This enclosure looks good. Here are the three things right off my head I can think of that may be the issue.
I went through so many heaters to my dismay. The heaters are all made very cheaply to compete in the market. I even found thermostats reporting different numbers. Which to believe? Do you take an average? Finally someone recommend the below to me and it does exactly what I need to keep a stable temperature within one degree F or C.
Plug your cheap or expensive heater into this, set it to a high setting but not max. This temperature controller will turn it on when it drops below a certain temperature and turn it off when it reach another. Accurate thermostat than the heater that comes with. Only thing is that this thing isn’t perfect, I find one time crashes, and it just kept the heater on. So don’t set it to the max. Set it a few degrees higher than your fish can handle. Of 6 months I had it, I had one time this happen to me. I hope it works for you as well.
VIVOSUN Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Temperature Controller 40–108 ºF for Seedlings,
I use this one on each of my tanks.
This is my favorite for heat mats!
Plug the mat into the thermostat, place the probe on top of the substrate (preferably paper towel or tile with a heat mat) in the warm hide. You can tape it down with something like medical tape. Set the thermostat to 92F. This will let your gecko digest at the right temperature without worrying about burns or moving around because it's too hot.
Heat mats are OK if controlled by a thermostat so they're the right temperature. Eventually you'll want to look into more advanced setups but it's ok to start here :)
It will likely be fine. I would monitor humidity and make sure food gets pulled out within a day until you know what you're dealing with exactly, humidity wise.
I drilled a hole just large enough to fit the probe on this thermostat and secured it with tape. Then I temporarily monitored humidity by dropping a humidity probe and just putting the lid over the cord. Keep in mind I have a bin with gaskets and locking handles so I wasn't worried about little roaches crawling out via the cord. I can"t tell if yours has gaskets or not.
I got it in a package deal with a seedling warming mat. The seedling mat was too small and hardly does anything so I just used the thermostat to push a small 250w heater at the bottom of the closet instead. I keep the temperature probe at the top with my bags and it just happenes to keep the middle perfect temps for fruiting too! this is the thermostat
I’m Canadian so this is my link, but the US has them too...just search heat may thermostat. They work perfectly.
VIVOSUN Digital Seedling Heat Mat Thermostat Controller 40-108℉ https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B015F4VFGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_n2FQFbH2N2EZ2
Something like this thermostat will be good! it comes with a plug that you plug the heat mat into and a probe that you put on top of the carpet in the warm hide - I usually tape mine down with medical tape since it sticks well to a lot of surfaces.
Since we’re sharing, I’ve been using this one for a couple of years and I have no complaints.
VIVOSUN Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Temperature Controller 40–108 ºF for Seedlings, Germination, Rooting, Fermentation and Reptiles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F4VFGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lVeJFb1XZ8R5N
Agreed for a thermostat controller!
From what I've experienced and what others are doing shows that it is a very good investment. Most I looked at are under $30, mine is Vivosun brand and I've had no issues...$17 on Amazon right now.
VIVOSUN Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Temperature Controller 40-108 ºF for Seedlings, Germination, Rooting, Fermentation and Reptiles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F4VFGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_65XtEb1BW4KYM
For a thermostat, I use these for my hognose, cali king, mex king, corn and rat snake and haven't had any issues. It's fairly accurate, stays something like +/-2 of the temp you set it at. I use Zoo Med heating pads currently.
I used to use lights to heat my enclosures. I then switched to heatmats after hearing experienced keepers on this sub and haven't looked back since. I don't have to worry about bulbs burning out, or replacing them, or checking 10 times a day to make sure the temp is okay and not changing too much due to house temperature.
I have been using this one with no issues so far. A little cheaper and it does the same thing. Although it reads about 2-4 degrees cooler than what my gun reads and I usually go with what my temp gun tells me so I match the thermostat accordingly.
undertank heat mats work great. set the thermostat probe under the tank with the mat, and set the thermostat to 88 degrees and you will probably be good. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI this one works fine.
the snake will spend most of it's time under the bedding, or in a hide. put one of the hides over the spot with the heat mat, and inside the hide and or under the bedding it should be around 86 degrees.
https://www.amazon.com/Forliver-Reptile-Heating-Temperature-Controller/dp/B01MRGMD58/ref=psdc_3048867011_t1_B088W9XVT4 these cheap heat mats work fine.
if you keep the room less then 75 degrees I would recommend getting an extra heat mat and thermostat so you can put one in the middle of the enclosure set to 78 degrees so your snake can have a step down from the higher heat without being in the cold
you want to get an infrared thermometer for spot checking your temperatures. the air and the surface of the substrate will read about the rest of the room, but if you pull back the bedding or check under the hide it will be closer to 86 if you set the thermostat to 88.
yeah that metal shelf will rip most of the heat from the heat mat before much gets into the enclosure.
also recomend thermostats. here is an amazon link to the one I use.https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=VIVOSUN+Digital+Heat+Mat+Thermostat+Temperature+Controller+40%E2%80%93108+%C2%BAF+for+Seedlings%2C+Germination%2C+Rooting%2C+Fermentation+and+Reptiles&qid=1605689048&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-1
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Thermasheath-Rmax-Thermasheath-3-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-13-1-Polyisocyanurate-Rigid-Foam-Insulation-Board-613010/100573703 this is what i use under alll of my enclosures.
aspen can get funky if it gets too moist. you may not want to mix it with other types of bedding.
By the way, definitely get a thermostat for the heating pad because they are way too hot. This one has been my favorite of the 3 I've owned.
I definitely agree that overhead is better (personally I prefer deep heat projectors), but heating pads are OK for now.
If you can find a front-opening enclosure that's 30-40 gallons you will not regret it. They love the room. Plus, picking them up from the side instead of from above is much easier because they don't feel like they're being attacked. And for you, not having to move your overhead heating and lights is SO worth it.
I tend to agree that starting with at least some of the items you want to eventually use will save you significant money. For instance, a deep heat projector will cost the same amount as a heating pad and thermostat. Depending on your ambient room temperature you may also need a dimmer (I like dimming fixtures), so together you'd only pay $15 more but never need to upgrade.
For the humid hide, you can cut a hole in a plastic food storage container from the dollar store, or even something like an empty butter container.
For the calcium bowl, check a dollar store for glass tealight candle holders. I got some that were perfect there.
Next, skip the reptile carpet. Some brands are notorious for getting claws caught and reptiles literally ripping them off to get loose. Some brands are better, but they're very difficult to clean. Better options (I always recommend starting with solid substrate til you have confidence in your temperature control, especially for juveniles, and always for the first month during quarantine period because if it has a parasite you'll have to throw out all the substrate): shelf liner is OK but does give off an odor so you absolutely have to have good ventilation; check the dollar store for super cheap liner, especially if you opt for a 20 gallon. Tile is all-around very safe and easy to clean. Difficult to get exactly the right size, but you can get a $25 tile cutter, or some stores will cut them for you. You can also try vinyl plank flooring, which you can cut yourself with a utility knife. Lowe's sells some models by the plank.
If the temperature was on the heating pad then the 91ish is good. I'd even bump it up to 92F. If you can get a thermostat, it'd be really good for the gecko and probably a huge stress reliever for you! Here's my favorite out of the three I've owned. This one is also very popular but I haven't tried it personally.
An infrared laser thermometer will also be very helpful to double check surface temperatures since the digital thermometers don't always record those very well.
I think your humidity is fine. The hot side is dry enough so if the cool side is too humid he can go over there.
I really like this one. It works better than others I've tried, and it's one of the cheapest you can get.
If you're limited to chain pet stores, Petco has one.
Once you get it, follow the instructions to set it to 92F and tape the probe to the ground in the warm hide. If it can't reach that temperature then you should check to make sure the mat hasn't come away from the bottom of the tank, and get a new mat if it's placed well but still can't get hot enough.
There's a lot of good information in this thread already so I'll just share why I'm using heat mats and lights and what I purchased 3 years ago and have served me well.
Total cost was under $100.00.
My backyard garden space is just over 1000 sq feet (about 93 sq meters). I wanted to reduce my expenses by growing seedlings for transplant instead of buying them at a local greenhouse/nursery. I also wanted to grow varieties that most nurseries don't carry around here. I don't have enough natural light in the room where I grow seedlings and needed to supplement with LEDs. The room is also significantly colder than the rest of my house and so heat mats were a necessity. I normally plant 70-80 peppers plants each year. I sow seed into cell packs indoors in early March and target early to mid-May for transplant (central VA, Zone 7a).
There may be better or less expensive products available but I've used these very successfully 3 years in a row and I would buy them again.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI thermostats can be cheap. this is my favorite cheap one. no reason not to order one. get it within 4 days.
I don't keep too much stuff in my enclosure like i used to when I started. I just keep 2 hides. 1 waterbowl a couple of fist sized rocks, a pipe or paper towel roll core, and a stick to climb on if I have the vertical space. flipping a hide is not much of a problem, and it does not stress a snake much. having to shake a snake out of a pipe is a bit tricky, but not as stressful as digging them out of the bedding.
the best trick is to flip the hide and pick up the snake before it knows what is going on. till your and your snake get used to handling try sitting on the floor or handling over a table so if you drop your snake it does not drop as far.
So, first things first, let's talk enclosure. You will want to have about 1 square foot of space for each foot long your snake is, sizing up as they grow. My adult carpet python (~8' long) lives in a 4' x 2' x 3' enclosure.
All reptiles are 'cold blooded', which as a keeper means you need to establish a temperature gradient in their cage, so they can thermoregulate. For that, you'll want to have an undertank heater and/or a ceramic heat emitter, both placed on the same side, and controlled via thermostat (example). Undertank heaters are great for belly heat (ideal for digesting) while the CHE will be great for increasing air temperature. You want like 90-92f on the warm side/basking spot, and ambient/room temperature on the cool side.
Carpet pythons like 50-80% humidity. Get a little spritz bottle so you can mist the enclosure if it becomes too dry. You'll want to buy a digital thermometer/hygrometer unit to verify humidity and temps. You'll also want a water bowl large enough for your snake to soak in if they feel like it. You need to keep an eye on humidity especially when your snake approaching a shed. You'll notice shed coming by your snake's belly getting pink a few weeks before a shed, then eyes and skin color fading out or appearing white/light blue.
You need to have a minimum of two hides, one on the warm side and one of the cool side. The hides should be snug, but with enough space that they can still curl up inside after a meal. Coconut fiber is a great substrate for increasing or maintaining humidity. Carpet pythons love climbing, so vertical space and climbing stuff is definitely appreciated as well.
You should feed your carpet python rats! Do not feed them mice! Carpet pythons in captivity are known for fixating on a single type of prey, which can make switching later in life problematic. Best to just feed them rat pinkies as a hatchling, and size up the rats from there. Carpet python meals should be about 2x to 2.5x the width of their (unfed) widest point. Hatchlings should be fed that much weekly, juvies every other week, young adults monthly, and mature adults every 6 weeks.
Carpet pythons are known for being one of the more inquisitive and active species of snake. When you take them out to hang out, try and do so when they are already out and about in their cage - don't retrieve them from their hides frequently or else they will not feel safe/secure and may become more likely to behave defensively. When out, expect a buddy who wants to get out and explore, not a pet who will cuddle with you and watch TV.
If you have a heat source, this may be burns. It also could be a type of rot that sets in and spreads after injury. It's kind of hard to tell because the pic is blurry.
You want to stabilize it until you can find a way to find money for the vet. Best case, the steps you take will lead to improvements, but don't count on that. Here is what I would do.
Immediately move it to a hospital tank. This can be a rubbermaid bin with holes drilled in it or you can repurpose the existing tank.
To make a hospital tank:
Clean the enclosure with hot water and vinegar, and let this solution set for about ten minutes. Rinse very well with hot water until you can't smell the vinegar, and then let it air dry. This will help kill or wash away any existing bacteria and mold. You should do this once a week, or sooner if you smell mold or mildew.
Put a layer of paper towels in the bottom for substrate
Put only inorganic, nonporous fixtures back in the tank. You want to eliminate anything that will hold fungus or bacteria. Fake plastic plants and a hide made out of a tupperware container would work well. Make sure you rinse these the same way and frequency as the enclosure.
Stop misting the entire enclosure. Moisture makes wound healing and fungal infections worse. Instead, mist one small area, like a 4inch by 4inch corner twice a day. Put three or four water dishes away from the heat source and change every day. Day geckos will drink from dishes.
Do not feed bugs if your gecko will eat powdered diets like pangea. Bugs make it more difficult to keep the hospital tank sterile. They can also eat on and stress your animal.
Remove the food after one day so it doesn't grow mold and bacteria.
Clean up any feces as soon as you see it.
Test your heat source/thermostat to make sure it isn't malfunctioning. Day geckos need a warm spot of 90 degrees, which will not feel much warmer than room temperature to your hand. If it is really hot, or uncomfortable for you to have your hand on, throw it out and get a new heat source. If you are using a heating pad, it can develop hot spots away from the thermostat probe that will superheat and cause burns. Honestly this is what the wounds look like to me.
If you don't have a thermostat, get one.
Move the enclosure to a quiet space. Stress makes healing and recovery more difficult.
Treat what you can:
Pick up some betadine. This is an antiseptic that every reptile owner should have. You can find it at drug stores like Walgreens. Apply according to directions on the bottle.
Pick up some antifungal. This will address fungal infections. Apply according to directions on the tube.
Prepare for next steps:
I know you are in a bad spot, and I definitely know how fast vet bills can add up. But the things I have described will likely just buy you time. You need to do everything you can to get this lil baby to a professional or it is very likely you could lose it.
See if you have any items you no longer need that you could sell on fb marketplace or craigslist.
Call vets and tell them what your situation is. Tell them what you can pay up front (even if it is 25 bucks) and ask if they offer payment plans. Many do, and will also work with you on pricing.
Keep asking for help on forums. I know you will be met with a lot of people telling you "well you shouldn't have it then" but that is not a very great answer that will help save your gecko's life. Just ignore that and keep looking for ways to help your pet. I also recommend taking very clear pictures with good lighting of the affected areas - what you have now is hard to see which makes specific advice difficult.
Consider rehoming to someone who can afford to help. This is how I ended up with both of my chameleons. They were very ill and their former keepers didn't have the money for the care required to save them. They were surrendered to me, and I was able to save their lives. I know it is so hard to think about giving up your pet, but if this progresses you will be giving them up to disease instead of giving them up to a chance at life.
Thank you for posting and asking for help. Many people ignore their animals and their illness and then dump them. It is obvious you are trying to find a way to care for your pet and I wish you and your gecko all the best.
I use a temperature controller with a heat lamp plugged into it. An incandescent lamp would also do fine. Just stick the probe and lamp in your oven.
this is what I use
Get a heat mat controller with a temp probe. Thank me later
I will piggy back off of this. yeah a 20 gallon long is a good size to start with and should last about 2 years before the snake outgrows it by much.
the space that can fit the wires are also an ideal size for a small cornsnake to s;ip thre to watch out for that.
you may want to switch from aspen bedding while using a heat lamp/CHE because aspen does not do well with misting, and the lamps really dry out the enclosures.
cats are mostly a problem because they get on things, and knock things down. you just need to cap proof your enclosure. make sure it can not be pushed off or the cat won't fall threw the lid.
an alterinitive setup that I have done for enclosures that get too cold in the winter is using 2 thermostats each with their own heat mat. I would have one set for 88 for hte hot spot, then one more set for 78 fir a step down, then leave the rest of the area unheated so the snake can chill if it wants. if it is cold in your room and you are using under tnak heating put your bedding down thickr so the heat will get trapped in it better.
https://i.imgur.com/OZzvata.jpg you can also fix the thermostat probe to something big that won't be easy for hte snake to move away from the heat. this basket is a bit tall to be effective for the heat lamp, but the lamp was just supplemental heat for I was mostly using a heat mat for this set up.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI yes these cheap thermostats do work, but they are full on and off. I would not use it for a bulb that emits visible light.
Ideally you want to keep the heat on all of the time, but you still want to give a natural day and night cycle. this is why we recommend using lightless heat bulbs. just the light from an unshaded window during the day will be enough, but at night you want to keep the lights down low.
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
https://youtu.be/uIaHJVmMqHg this is much cheaper then those useless starter kits. yeah you have to get everything yourself, but it should save alot of money.
I want to say it is great that you want to help your sister.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Seedling-Digital-Thermostat-Standard/dp/B016MKY7C8 if the room is cold buy 2 of these sets and set one to 78 so the enclosure has a step down from the hot spot. also these heat mats are pretty big for a small hatchling, so I would only put about half of it under the enclosure with the other half hanging out. thermostat probe goes under the enclosure with the heat mat.
https://youtu.be/qNFw-i0TW3w https://www.sterilite.com/product-page.html?product=19314304 https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI https://www.amazon.com/Forliver-Reptile-Heating-Temperature-Controller/dp/B01MRGMD58
cheap but good equipment to use. this enclosure should last about a year at least, and when they out grow them you can move to a full sized 6 or 8 square foot PVC enclosure.
absolutely, but no matter what you use for heating you need to have each heating element on a thermostat, and I don't mean a rheostat. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI this is a thermostat.
the big limitation of most plastic tote boxes is that they can not be used with a heat lamp unless they are really big, and that will require modifications.
https://youtu.be/XPJlW0d7Tbk this is an over simplification of a demonstration, but you can see where the probe and heat mat goes, and see that it is working perfectly. that is just a holding box for while I was cleaning the normal enclosure.
I also use reflective foam insulation under my enclosure to bounce more heat into the enclosures rather than it leaching away into what the enclosure is sitting on.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI works good
https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Adjustment-Reptiles-Turtle%EF%BC%8CUnder-5-51inch11inch/dp/B08M9H4285/ref=sr_1_24?keywords=heat+mat&qid=1636421816&qsid=133-6082439-3118625&refinements=p_36%3A-1500&rnid=2661611011&sr=8-24&sres=B00P7U259C%2CB076FLJDFQ%2CB08BTFNTG4%2CB074753J5V%2CB08214L8MW%2CB083SC1V9P%2CB078T9YT1C%2CB018VQ71JC%2CB08KTXC93K%2CB082HSPP5M%2CB01MDQP0Q1%2CB0882Y4CV7%2CB07QMPRML1%2CB08M5LY546%2CB00NG61K5E%2CB07V7NBX5T%2CB00WJ2FYA8%2CB076FHK3NM%2CB08C98KNWR%2CB08M9H4285 these are cheap, but I think the nicer ones have really come down in price that it may be worth getting a nicer one.
2 years ago the nicer ones were about double the cost they are now
Here’s a link: VIVOSUN Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Temperature Controller 40–108 ºF for Seedlings, Germination, Rooting, Fermentation and Reptiles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F4VFGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GE9TPTKSTY1K4S6HN4AY
unless the classroom is kept at 80 degrees constant it needs some kind of heating.
$47 with no risk of a fire, vs $100 for exotic vet visit, and another $50 for medication.
I'm going to guess that's what you have based on your cage since it's all glass. Your cage is also huge which is awesome and gives you options:
Ultra budget ($20): get a thermostat for the heat mat. This one has worked well for me.
Get a dimming lamp fixture, the thermostat from 1, and a deep heat projector (50w should be fine unless your house is below maybe 72F, then go for 75w) or 50w halogen ($45-70).
Go all out and get a dimming thermostat and a halogen or deep heat projector (~$100-200).
You can start with the thermostat and save up for the other things later. I'd also recommend getting a UVB lamp as soon as you can, which will be around $40.
If you keep your room in the mid 70s then you can set up the heating with just a heat mat and a thermostat
http://www.sterilite.com/SelectProduct.html?id=945&ProductCategory=305&section=0 <--escape Proof very important
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rmax-Common-0-5-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-5-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-Matte-Plus-3-1-R-3-2-Faced-Polyisocyanurate-Garage-Door-Foam-Board-Insulation/3014172 a layer of this under the enclosure to make the heat mat more effective.
https://www.target.com/p/cool-whip-original-frozen-whipped-topping-8oz/-/A-12959357 eat the whip use container for water dish.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-30-Watt-Soldering-Iron-with-Stand-and-Electrical-Solder/274899628?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=4526&adid=22222222420449455996&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&w... you can use this to make 270 air holes in the side of the enclosure for ventilation, or you can use a coat hanger heated over a stove. and also to make the cave opening for the hides.
https://www.target.com/p/7-3-plastic-kids-plate-pillowfort-153/-/A-54411730?preselect=53195305#lnk=sametab 2 of these. use soldering iron or hot wire to cut the cave opening in the sides of the plates. you cna also use the small bowls too.
All of this is less then $80 together. this will last a year at least.
https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Temperature-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Fahrenheit/dp/B09BZ3WRGR put 2 of these in the enclosure. they are cheap but they are more accurate then the analog meters. put the rest around your room and house so you can monitor your temperatures.
https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00325-Comfort-Monitor-Black/dp/B004K8RF10 more expensive, but more useful because you can see the high and low over the last 24 hours. so if you are at work and the temperature spikes mid day you can know about it.
I would not worry about her going to the bottom of the enclosure to get closer to the heat mat. you have your heat mat rigged to a thermostat that automatically cuts off the power to the mat and turns it back on as needed right? they look like this https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI these are what I use. they are cheap but the work great with heat mats. Probe goes under the enclosure with the heat mat. thermostat should be set to 88 degrees and should not go higher then 90.
also on the topic of heating, what temperature do you keep your room at that has the snake in it? This matters.
To your question. For example If I feed my hatchling on monday, I won't handle that hatchling till thursday. I feed a single mouse that is the same thickness of my snakes or 1.5 times the thickness of my snakes. If the mouse is closer to the same thickness of my snake then I will feed the hatchling again on friday. if the mouse was 1.5 times the size of the snake then I will not feed again till saturday. once the snake is on fuzzies I will add a day in this cycle. I have come to the conclusion that it is less stressful on the body of a snake to eat one mouse rather then 2 mice. in the cases of the feeder being a little undersized I would still feed the one mouse, but more often.
since you are feeding 2 pinkies as you start running out of those I would buy a 25 bag of mixed size fuzzies. that should last you at least half a year and by then your snake may be ready for small hoppers. https://i.imgur.com/4CP1EpM.jpg for size comparison.
now when comparing the size of your snake to the size of the mouse look at your snake from the side, and not from over head. corn snakes seem to be a little more tall then they are wide
I don't think the expensive ones are even less likely to fail, then the cheap ones marketed for growing plants. I am using 14 of these https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI none have failed yet.
If your brought your room temperature up by 3 degrees it would make things easier, or you could just use a second heat mat thermostat set to give a step down on heat in the middle of hte enclosure without it getting going for warm to too cold too quickly.
so set the hot end thermostat to 87, and the middle thermostat to 80, then leave the cool end unheated. I did this in the winter with one of my enclosures that was in a cold corner.
I bought cheapo mats so they didn’t but then later I got this to be able to control the temp! https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI
You can get it on Amazon. It’s really accurate for temp readings. Is your heat mat connected to a thermostat? I use this to lower and raise me heat mat temps. If you don’t have you definitely get it, it’s very important.Heat Mat Thermostat
Infrared Temp Gun
also you can put an insulation panel under it. in a pinch cardboard or a bath towel will do
A picture is worth 1000 words.
always use a thermostat with each heating element.
This is a cheap, but good thermostat. it is a basic on off thermostat and that is all you need with a heat mat.
Unless you get a power surge a most heat mats won't get hot enough to melt anything but chocolate, and if you use a thermostat it will control the temp for you.
if my picture you see that thing under the heat mat? That is a Rmax reflective insulation panel. I started using them under all of my enclosures and I find it makes the heat mats much more effective.
If the room you are keeping the snake in is colder then 75 degrees then you will need more then a heat mat because the cold side will be too cold, and the hot side won't be conftible to be in all of the time. Most people will just use a heat lamp, but you can't use heat lamps with tote boxes.
You can run a second heatmat+thermostat if you wanted to set the hot side to 87-89 and the cooler heat mat to 79-81, and leave the cool end without a heat mat. I have never heard of anyone using 2 heat mats to give a mid temp point, but to give the best heat gradient and only using heat mats it would be the way to go.
I have been using these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F4VFGI/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B015F4VFGI&pd_rd_w=zCKI2&pf_rd_p=7d37a48b-2b1a-4373-8c1a-bdcc5da66be9&pd_rd_wg=TtJEs&pf_rd_r=7M55DN15X8XA0C2W85WF&pd_rd_r=cf13537f-d2df-492f-a215-94224d36810f&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE5VU9CSTJJVDQyMkMmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0ODQzNTMxTTFPMTU5M0VFUlhMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3OTg1MTBJVlY2Tk5KS1VWQVEmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
huge link problem
I would tie the thermostat probe to the top of the spire with zip ties or with string.
And switch to a ceramic heat emitter or a black light bulb so you can run it on the thermostat.
I would normally just use a heat mat, but it sounds like you keep your house a little too cold for that.
Oh, and by the way your snake is an Amelanistic(albino) motley morph combination
so, you can probably save between $200-$400 if you do your set up right.
I want to start out by saying the worst thing that could happen is that you loose a snake because it escaped, or a snake, or all of your snakes get sick. Exotic vet bills can cost you $200 per visit, and not all exotic vets are good with corn snakes. I find many of them have much more EXP with ball pythons. Also for the first year your corn snakes will be very small, and very hard to medicate if they did get sick.
back to the enclosures. The best enclosure I can recommend for the first year for a corn snake is this. http://www.sterilite.com/SelectProduct.html?id=945&ProductCategory=305&section=0 . You will want to add about 270 air holes. buy a cheap $10 soldering iron to make the air holes. You can buy these boxes for $12-$15 each. even if 2 of those latches break off the enclosure is still escape proof. Use those boxes for the first year or till the snakes out grows them. After that you can buy large adult enclosures for them, or try to find larger boxes. with just 3 or 4 snakes I would just move up to large and nice enclosures. After they outgrow those gasket boxes, it will be much harder for them to escape any type of enclosure, and your snakes will be alot easier to find if they do get away.
The 2 next things you will be spending money on, and you can save money on is heating and or cooling. If you buy reptile branded stuff you will pay at least 2 times more then you need to.
If you keep your house or the room with your snakes at 75-80 degrees you can get away with only using a heat mat with a thermostat. If you keep your house cooler you will need to use a heat lamp. You can not use a heat lamp with a plastic tote box. it will melt the box. well you can, but does not work with every box, and it takes alot of modifications. Either way thermostats should be used with every heat source.
When using a heat mat I recommend putting a reflective insulation panel under the enclosure. This will make a big difference when you use a cheap heat mat. I recommend these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/R-Matte-Rmax-R-Matte-Plus-3-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-3-2-Polyisocyanurate-Rigid-Foam-Insulation-Board-754404/100572981 They are cheap, and 1 panel will easily take care of all of your enclosures.
for a thermostat I recommend https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI?pd_rd_w=nSsVA&pf_rd_p=5f283b31-1038-4004-ba60-93d06ec30f34&pf_rd_r=WTYRTTZTZ96M888YAG44&pd_rd_r=f34c2563-9e60-44b3-9c7d-c688cca05f4e&pd_rd_wg=kl64L&pd_rd_i=B015F4VFGI&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_13_t they don't get cheaper then this, and these work. I am using 11 of these right now.
for heat mats I recommend this style. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PH4S43F/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07PH4S43F&pd_rd_w=z9uNI&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=qOFxb&pf_rd_r=ZAGC2SNXZEQB865T4ADS&pd_rd_r=eda3c6b2-36c5-4eff-aae8-6f8713385a0f&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWkFOTFJXSFlFRjg4JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODkzNzA1M0tNMEJEQ0lUUFo5VyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTYyNjkzMzJCVkxBOFE1UVJINSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= This work great once you add the insulation panel under the enclosure. this size works well for the 37 quart gasket boxes I recommended, but you will want to upgrade the mats when you upgrade the enclosure. I find anywhere between 1/4-1/2 of the enclosure size for the heat mats.
These are the cheapest you can get these types of products.
I don't have central cooling and heating for my reptile room. I use a ceramic heater with a built in thermostat in the winter to keep the room from getting below 75 degrees, and a AC with a built in thermostat to keep the room from getting above 85 degrees in the summer. The heater is going to be less then $90 for something that will take care of a small room, but the AC will be at least $200 for something that takes care of a small room. the built in thermostat on an AC window unit adds $50
Hides, water bowels and clutter, does not cost much, but it does not mean you should not save the money. The cheapest small hide I have seen was $3 at an expo. they are made with cheap black plastic.
I use plastic bowels in plates I get from target to use as hides. they are 30cents to 60cents each. Using a cheap soldering iron you can cut cave openings into the plates and bowels. This is what mine look like. https://i.imgur.com/riWPZfk.png putting a clean rock under the bowels will make them feel saver for the snakes, and take up some of the extra room.
I use PVC pipes for my corn snakes. you can but a 10 foot pipe for $10, and cut it down with a cheap hand saw. sand down the rough edges. I use pvc because it can be cleaned and reused, and it is food safe.
For the water bowel the best thing I have found to far is cleaned out cool whip containers. but anything that is not prone to tipping will work as a water bowel. I like to use cheap dog or cat water bowels as hides, and or waterbowels sometimes. once again cut a cave hole in the side of the base with a soldering iron, but don't cut the part that would hold the water. The dog or cat bowels are great because once your get your snake tong feeding really well you can drag the snake over to the food bowel if you don't keep water in it, and it is a clean place for the snake to eat.
In closing I want to make sure you know not to cohabitate your corn snakes. you put your investment at risk if you do. when you get your snakes quarantine them away from each other for at least a month, but 3 months in recommended to make sue they are all healthy.
yeah, you may want to get some cheap thermometers to put around the enclosure. I like the hydrometer/thermometer 2 in one.
Yeah the looks like an ok set up for an older corn snake. Fake branches are pretty good. You can use real branches if you bake them at about 200 degrees for 2 hours. and older corn snake is not going to want to climb on small branches, so you are going to want to look for thicker stuff.
you really need to get a thermostat. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Thermostat-Temperature-Germination-Fermentation/dp/B015F4VFGI?pd_rd_w=U4z8J&pf_rd_p=cb335323-1c34-41e9-9be4-1577c64bd1ea&pf_rd_r=BAZATS1Z36KZJ77EPX2W&pd_rd_r=4b929bf7-343a-479f-aab8-12c20c0c3292&pd_rd_wg=Ac3Wf&pd_rd_i=B015F4VFGI&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_5_t I am using like 11 of these right now, and I have 2 more ready for when my next snakes come in.
well good thing to know is that 68 is almost 70, and that is good enough for the cold end of the enclosure. I would recommend finding a room that stays a little warmer then the rest of the house though.
So heat mats don't warm the air. the best a heat mat can do is warming the air under the hide that is over the heat mat, but that is enough for a corn snake. corn snakes really do well with belly heat, though some people will argue that over head heat is better, like you would get from a heat lamp.
with as cool as your house is, if you can't find a warm room, then you may need to use a heat lamp in the corm of a ceramic heat emitter, or a black light bulb.
if you use a heat mat I recomend putting a layer of insulation under the heat mat, like this <strong>https://www.homedepot.com/p/R-Matte-Rmax-R-Matte-Plus-3-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-3-2-Polyisocyanurate-Rigid-Foam-Insulation-Board-754404/100572981</strong> shiny side up. This will make the cheapest heat mats much better.
If you go with a heat lamp you can get a cheap shop clamp lamp for like $7 at home depo or lowes. black light bulbs are like $3 each, but the ceramic heat emitters are much nicer. I would angle it out slightly so it shoots down the length of the enclosure a little.
no matter waht you go with you need to use a thermostat. the cheapest one that I have found and I use is only $17 on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015F4VFGI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To set the thermostat up for a heat mat you want to put the heat mat under the enclosure, and put the probe on the heat mat under the enclosure with it. You can use the cheapest heat mats for this. depending on size they are $9-$20 for the cheapest ones on amazon.
to set up the thermostat for a heat lamp you will need to hot glue the probe of the thermostat to a large rock, or something that won't shift around, and put it in the enclosure so that the probe is the closest thing to the heat lamp.
without a thermostat you will need to constantly check your temps, and you run the risk of one day over heating, and killing your snake. A thermostat makes things alot easier
Yes that's good the light isn't great since they can see it at night. I haven't seen any heat mat like that but if that's what you like then that's great. Just in case you find that too pricey Im gonna link the thermostat that I have (https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Digital-Seedling-Thermostat-Controller/dp/B015F4VFGI/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1547756115&sr=8-10&keywords=thermostat+reptile) and you would just hook this up to UTH that is a good size for your tank. The UTH is gonna go on the hot side under the tank set at 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
There isn't necessarily a "humid side" the tank should have the same humidity throughout which is a *minimum* of 60% but its better around 70. You could still cover the top with foil on the parts without the CHE. Im not an expert (hence my flair) but I have done a lot of research, and I believe you should place the CHE anywhere that will give you the optimal temperatures. You could try moving it around to find the perfect spot to have 78-80 degrees on the cool side and a 90 degree hotspot on the hot side (UTH). Also the placement of your hides sounds good although of course it would be better with 3 hides.
Hopefully all that made sense haha, you should also check out Not Just a Pet Rock on facebook. Also here's a video on humid hides: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjBFKkbJrRE
I have these on both of my vivs. They work great and are much cheaper.
VIVOSUN Digital Seedling Heat Mat Thermostat Controller 68-108℉ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F4VFGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gENlBbG0815XA
Yes, they do. Except those bottom heaters are not ideal. Yeast develops at the bottom of the jar. So, you want more even heating
I use this heating mat and controller. It keeps my 2 gallon(7.6L) jars within 0.7 degrees of target temp
VIVOSUN Digital Seedling Heat Mat Thermostat Controller 68-108℉ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F4VFGI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
VIVOSUN Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mat Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad 3'' x 20" for Kombucha Tea & Beer Brewing, Fermentation, Seedlings & Plant Germination https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PTZCJ4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
A heater with temperature sensor really helps. Most are rebranding the same manufacturer with their name.
Vivosun seems to have the lowest price on these. Get the 3" pad. I made the mistake of ordering the 10" and it is far too large for even my 2.5 gallon jars
The secret to instant temperature is to hold the heating pad midway around your jar using thick rubber bands. Attack the sensor with duct or black electrical tap near the bottom of your jar(which should be sitting on some type of insulation if on a counter) . Then wrap a towel or something else around the whole jar & pad to hold heat in.
Without that, I found my heater was always on, and unable to hold the temp I set. Once I wrapped a towel around my jars, it stayed with 1 degree, at all times
Thermostat Controller w/ temp sensor - https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Digital-Seedling-Thermostat-Controller/dp/B015F4VFGI
3" x 30' heating pad - https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Waterproof-Hydroponic-Fermentation-Germination/dp/B073PTZCJ4/
Right now I just use these cheap ones. I've never had any problems. They keep the temperature +/-2 of what you set it at.
I'd like to eventually switch to something similar to Vivarium Electronics, which is a Pulse Proportional thermostat and you can adjust the temperature for different times.There's a more reputable/feature-rich brand that is escaping me for the moment.
And for an UTH just get one from zoomed, I've never had a problem with theirs before.