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Hair dryer gets up to around 150 degrees on the highest setting. Maybe if you have a really weird crazy one you are getting 180-200 degrees?
This is 30 dollars and can get a stream of heating piping out at 1000 degrees.
You're hair drier is not even in the same ballpark.
OK, you are on the right track. a 27 foot catalina is everyone's first boat, including mine. And boy are they a great boat for the size. Seriously a great boat. First off, DO NOT USE ANY AUTOMOTIVE GRADE ELECTRICAL WIRING!!!! I cannot stress this enough. Almost all boat fires are caused by electrical corrosion, and automotive grade wiring will fail, fast. (I'm assuming that you are in a salt water environment.) Adhesize lined shirink wrap. It will save so much time over electrical tape and it will make you look like a pro.
Buy a heat gun
Does it matter which heat gun you get? Not really. But they come in so handy because most yacht hose is made of thermo plastic and having one means that you can put hoses on for plumbing super fast and easily.
Watch a lot of youtube videos on tips and tricks for fiberglass work and caulking. Makes a huge difference when you copy a real professional.
Then go join a yacht club and have a lot of fun pulling together a crew. And remember, captain buys the beer ;)
Walmart has em I believe, or harbor freight, or home depot or lowes..or any hardware store really...here's one for $20 on amazon [link]
Check out heat guns on amazon. Super cheap, good for shrinking heat shrink if you ever plan to work on AEG guns.
I got this one and it works well
Hit it with a few seconds of heat and remove the tip with some pliers.
I just wanted to throw my 2 cents in. I love to use a heat gun for depotting. It's the only thing I have luck with and makes it where I don't break any shadows. This is the one I got.
I made it so easy to just pull the products right out.
just get a heat gun, they are about 20 bucks on amazon. I needed had to order one for cleaning a nozzle anyways. But this sounds like another neat use for it.
I like it a lot more than torches; far prefer using really hot air over something with an accelerant.
The last time I used a butane torch on a brulee it tasted "off." Not sure exactly where the problem was (could have been a bad nozzle or too much fuel in the mix), but I haven't had any problems with anything since switching to this: [link]
For $22 it's not a huge investment, either.
I only puts out 4k BTUs (half your typical cooking torch, or 1% of a 500k btu monster), but I've used it to char the outside of a sous vide'd 2-rib standing rib roast. It's somewhat of a niche thing, but works when the grill or cast iron won't.
I had the same question initially and eventually went with a heat gun because pretty much everyone recommended one. I can say, while it didn't make it any 'easier', I can think of a few issues that a regular hair dryer or an open flame would bring about.
A regular plain hair dryer might simply not be able to get the air hot enough to allow the material you are trying to bend, be it Acrylic or PETG, to get soft enough to bend without artifacts.
An open flame may be worse still as it would be pretty tough to accurately adjust the temperature or even keep it steady. Also, there is the possibility that it could cause discoloration on the material.
Either way, even with a heat gun, you risk blemishing the material by making it too hot or by trying to bend while it is still cold. So I'd say get the right tool for the job, a heat gun, and some extra material so you can practice before making something you'll put into your final build.
This heat gun is in the right watt range for what you want to do and appears to have pretty good reviews, however, I own a different one so I'm not so sure how good it actually is.
Would a heat gun like this work?
My wife uses it to dry layers of paint when making props. (I'm not really crafty so I thought I'd suggest.)
Heat gun like this normally used for stripping paint / general home repair will do just fine. Heat from the back evenly and the parts will be in acceptable condition. Should be less than $30. I've got some ram and PCI slots here that I unsoldered using a comparable heat gun to troll people with. ("You really unsoldered each one of those pins by hand!?") It's also really handy to re-use the jacks, headers, and connectors for other projects.
That's not a hair dryer, that's a heat gun. They can get up over 1000F, hot enough to burn lots of things...
I recently did the repair myself, it wasn't too bad. I spent about an hour and half for the entire process. Opening up the glass visor is easiest using a razor blade at the curve on the right side after you heat it with a heat gun. There are a couple of videos that I used as reference. If you need links I can find them. If you have good hands, and a knack for opening stuff up and a some patience you can do it.
I ordered OEM LCD+digitizer+frame assembly from eBay for $101 shipped. The screen quality is just like the original, I can't tell any difference.
Also here are the tools I needed, ordered them on Amazon:
I would order them on eBay if you can find the stuff cheaper, I just got them through Amazon because I have prime.
One thing I would do differently is get a back visor glass and back frame (saw them for ~$30 on eBay) to make sure that the phone looks brand new. Only damage on my phone is the back plastic bottom cover has dents and small scratches. However, the aluminum frame looks brand new, so happy with how the repair turned out.
Also doing the repair yourself voids warranty.
I had got this 20 dollar heat gun and some plastic razors to take them off
Yeah, it definitely all drinks the same :) I just like the look of these bottles with the labels. Here's some Amazon links to the various things I've been using lately:
The heat gun is entirely optional, a hair dryer works almost as well aside from blowing the little tubes off the bottles when you're trying to seal em.
I occasionally solder el-wire, LED strips and the like. My go to for all of my basic electronic needs has been SparkFun, they seem to vet their products well and only carry quality items.
This is the soldering station I have, but it appears to be retired from their catalog. I've been very happy with it and would not hesitate to recommend something similar.
This heat gun has worked well for me for use with heat-shrink tubing. My first one was from Harbor Freight and died after a few uses; Harbor Freight is great for some items and hit/miss on others.
I agree with /u/cEquals1 on having a helping hand. I picked up a couple on the cheap on eBay.
Since I'm working with some very thin wires and connections I also use these magnifying glasses (when I put them on I definitely channel my inner nerd).
edit: Also, breathing in soldering fumes turns you into a superhero, right? RIGHT? Seriously, try not to breathe the fumes.
Here is the parts for your water cooling loop https://imgur.com/a/P2Dhz7m , https://imgur.com/a/dmPzC2L and https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Barrowch-FBRE1-P-BoxFish-Series-LRC-2-0-5v-POM-Square-Smart-Digital-Reservoirs-Real-time/32862937622.html Go check out r/watercooling if you want to know what custom water cooling is all about. Oh also forgot this https://imgur.com/a/nG8aZdV and this https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Spraytech-0503008-Heat-Gun/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1546174315&sr=8-4&keywords=heat+gun
Thanks! In order to bend the tubes you need a heat gun, something like this. [link]
I would just get the cheapest one that you can find. You will also need a silicon insert to place inside the tubing to keep the shape while you make your bends. I used the one that came in this kit [link]
but you can probably find the insert alone for cheaper since I didn't end up using the saw included in that kit.
I ended up using one of these [link]
In order to get cleaner cuts. If you don't get the bend perfect the first time you can always take it back over to the heat gun and make any minor adjustments that are needed. The fans that I purchased came in a three pack that included a fan controller that supports up to six fans. I mounted the controller on the inside of the case because I didn't like how it looked anywhere else, but you can stick it on the case anywhere you want.
I printed mine from PLA and it works great. Stick to solid colors. I printed my first with transparent and they (both styles of blower mod) cracked in more than one place over time due to the pressure. Transparent is, for whatever reason, much more brittle than solid colors.
As an aside, you can "glue" PLA to itself with a heat gun, as well as reshape it. I mention this because it's very handy to deal with cracked layers, and I also ended up using it to move messed up layers or individual strands that got dragged around or didn't end up in the right place, as well as molding the blower shells "just so" so that they'd mesg perfectly with my blower.
I've used both a standard $20 Wagner HT1000 on it's LOW setting as well as SparkFun's Heaterizer XL-3000 (which, contrary to its name, is both lower power and smaller than the Wagner) and both worked great. The Heaterizer has the benefit of being easier to work with smaller objects, and having a little stand to keep the hot surface off your workbench/desk as it's cooling down, but the Wagner also has a hanging hook.
Those heat guns are handy to have around, by the way. I originally had the Wagner for heatshrink and bought the Heaterizer for more precise SMD soldering, and both are great those tasks plus fixing or reshaping PLA. Just make sure the Wagner stays on LOW or you'll really mess things up, including possibly yourself!
I use this day in and day out. Does its job and never fails.
Sorry for the bad link and the delay.
Here is an updated album best I could get with my wife's car in the garage and a with a house full this weekend. [link]
For anyone wondering what I used here is the links:
/r/cosplayers is better for questions and advice
Oh, any reliable heat gun should work. I use this one
Wagner 0503008 HT1000 1,200-watt Heat Gun [link]
I have this one Wagner HT1000 works great for heat shrink on Low setting
No need to spend $45+
I personally use a heat gun ( [link] ) Takes a little longer than a blowtorch, but don't have to deal with fuel.
I got the heat gun from amazon.
as for the polymer clay, I bought the craftsmart brand from Michael's
With the right tools, charcoal can be just as fast as propane, but it requires you to cheat.
After seeing how awesome the BBQ Dragon is, I realized i could accomplish the same thing with a Wagner Heat Gun for much cheaper.
I put my chimney on a metal plant stand. I rigged the heat gun with metal clamps so it blows through the charcoals from underneath. It's often ready in 5-10 minutes.
For me, the real issue with charcoal is cooling. It takes a couple hours for the fire & heat to die down. Flavor is worth it though.