I bought them for testing options for running ghost wire to the surround speakers in my living room. Needed to be able to quickly attach/detach until I got it right... now im planning to use these little bad boys as well as these on all my wiring jobs instead of those stupid twist nuts

they are a little larger than a pair of 4pin molex, BTW what do you need molex for in a SFF build, it is not like you have any space for addon cards and such (aside from a dual slot GPU at best)

if you only need 12 or 5v and not both it saves overall space since you only need 1 SPL-2 which is probably about 75% the volume of a pair of molex plugs (1 SPL2 is 4cm x 1.3cm x 1.3cm)

• SPL-2 Volume = 4×1.3×1.3 = 6.76 centimeters^3
• Molex Pair Volume = 3×2.5×0.8 = 6 centimeters^3

nrv i was wrong about the space (unless you are using the molex plugs with grips to pull them apart)

but i am using them in a fully loaded (and then some) ATX mid-tower case and it really getting cramped in there, i had 3 pieces of hardware that only need 12v so I used the PSU's 8pin PCIe power cable jack to make 3 12v lines using SPL-2 plugs

• fully loaded and there is not even a dGPU in there

Another option is these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKSHVF6 it mostly depends on how you can router the wires and the shape of the space you are working with

I don't think it's as dire of a situation as it's being made out to be.

You can get a small pack of bushings to go in the entry hole for like a couple of dollars. It looks like drywall protrudes into the hole space anyway so it should stop the wire from rubbing/getting cut into by the metal anyway though. Buy some Wago connectors of you're not comfortable with wire nuts.

If you hid the LED wires well enough so that they aren't casting shadows when it's on then you did a decent job. Just fix up the connections.

Just wanted to update that I found a solution. These parts worked perfectly to splice DuPont wires or create a 5pin+ bus. Highly reccomend!

Wago 2 Port (10) 3 Port (10) 5 Port (5) 221 Splicing Connector, Lever-Nut Assortment Pocket Pack for All Wire 12-24 AWG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKSHVF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G48D5HXJSNK85BPAHW7G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If you have bare wire use Wago connectors. https://www.amazon.com/Splicing-Connector-Lever-Nut-Assortment-Pocket/dp/B07NKSHVF6/

The easiest way is with Wago connectors. You feed in one +5V or ground wire from the power supply and then you can branch out with 1, 2, or 4 wires for LEDs, power injection, the ESP, and anything else you might need. These allow you to disconnect everything easily and can handle up to 450V/32A.

Alternatives would be a terminal/fuse block, soldering everything together, a power supply with multiple terminals like you mentioned (though most I've seen only have two 5V and two GND).

You might also look through the compatible hardware list since many of these shields/boards are setup specifically for this and have tons of terminals and other features you'd want in one little package.

Yeah! I have some coming today and I'm excited. Crimp free lever connectors. I've heard it's best to go with the name brand; the cheap ones can work open.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NKSHVF6

Here's my story and how I fixed it:

You can fix it without soldering. I did it a couple of months ago using these connectors:

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKSHVF6

Here's my post with all the details:

• https://www.reddit.com/r/NinebotMAX/comments/up5ppm/g30lp_shuts_down_while_riding/

Here's my post documenting my experience with it all:

• https://www.reddit.com/r/NinebotMAX/comments/up5ppm/g30lp_shuts_down_while_riding/

These are the replacement connectors I used to repair it - no soldering required:

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKSHVF6

If you open up the deck and the rear motor connectors have indeed melted, here's my post documenting my experience with it all:

• https://www.reddit.com/r/NinebotMAX/comments/up5ppm/g30lp_shuts_down_while_riding/

These are the replacement connectors I used to repair it - no soldering required:

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKSHVF6

I just so happen to have repaired this same problem last night. Here's my post documenting my experience.

https://www.reddit.com/r/NinebotMAX/comments/up5ppm/g30lp_shuts_down_while_riding/

These are the replacement connectors I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKSHVF6

I loathe the Ideal connectors.

First, they are weirdly gauge-specific with color coding over the years and, in my experience, don't work at all with the entire range they claim. You have a couple solid 12ga wires? Sounds good... but you can pull them back out with relatively little effort... say... the amount you use folding them back into the box.

You have different gauge wires you need to put together? Tough luck - they are probably falling right out and have a crappy connection, if at all.

Second, anything smaller than 12 AWG usually bends before seating correctly, making it a pain to ensure you have a fully seated connection in the first place. They tend to pull back out when arranging them in the box or moving them out of the way if wires shift.

Most importantly, unless you're going around soldering the ends of stranded ends to make a "solid" connection, you're never going to get it to work with that 18-22ga ceiling fan / light connection. WAY more work than just using a wiring nut.

They are the worst option available right now, imo.

After using them, I make sure I have Wago lever connectors now always stocked. WELL worth the money to just have a dozen or so of each type (2x, 3x, and 5x) that are available. Especially great for fixtures you may swap out later, or if you do any kind of bench electric work that uses 24AWG or thicker wires, as all the connections are easily removable for testing.

The only got-ya I know if is that you should use electrical tape around the levers when you're ready to button stuff up. The little levers take a bit of effort for the cam action, but they can sometimes get flipped open as things shift in the box when you're pushing everything back.

Because I like layers to my safety, I put the thinnest wires in the middle where possible and then I start the tape just above the line so you can still see if the wires are fully seated without taking the tape off. Theory goes that if I don't tape it, the ends are more likely to get caught on something that would flip the lever and the thickest wire is least likely to loosen. If I get the tape, then eveything is double tight.

I'll never install anything with a stranded wire connecter using anything other than WAGO if it's within the gauge limit, I'll tell you that much. The only wire nuts I use now are the green grounding ones with the wire hole at the top.

Are those one real wagos ?

https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/connecteur-d%C3%A9pissure-assortiment-d%C3%A9crous-levier/dp/B07NKSHVF6/ref=sr_1_5?gclid=CjwKCAjwiuuRBhBvEiwAFXKaNHVwN6U5Quuu43YXGHpWVpWu5afzNMjROid3ynmrIMnuz2RYiB_9LBoCRxAQAvD_BwE&hvadid=588928180283&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9061024&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2647811319240003233&hvtargid=kwd-297762308129&hydadcr=26522_11685880&keywords=wago+connector&qid=1648062107&sr=8-5

Also, would they be suitable for thermostats wiring (240V - 16.6A, max 25A)

Deal link: Amazon

You can do something like the Wago connectors:

https://www.amazon.com/Splicing-Connector-Lever-Nut-Assortment-Pocket/dp/B07NKSHVF6/

To connect the 1 GND to 3 different wirestrips, you would need a 4 port connector!

Deal link: Amazon (additional 15% off coupon on app)

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WAGO connectors. No fuss, no soldering

https://www.amazon.com/Splicing-Connector-Lever-Nut-Assortment-Pocket/dp/B07NKSHVF6/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=WAGO+connectors&qid=1613442115&sr=8-1