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with an average of
> Tell that to the 26GB repo of a Unity game I cloned with the complete history.
It would cost you $1.20 to store that repository locally.
I mean...personally I greatly appreciate browsing photos on my ssd vs my older hard drive. You open up one, use the arrow keys to flip through them. Tiniest bit of lag between each phone on the ssd. But on the hdd it's always like 1 second of lag between each photo, go through 60 photos it's a real drag.
But anyways, if I wanted a 1tb hdd I've probably go with a wd blue:
If you need an external drive it looks like they're priced similar to ssd's (?). What I personally actually do is use a 1tb ssd...with a modern ssd and cable it's about the same speed as an internal ssd. yeah it cost $60 extra but being able to copy my file backups over to it in 2 minutes rather than 30 minutes was worth it.
I take it this is a desktop? Get a 3.5" SATA HDD. If in your budget, you can spring for an SSD instead. Either will work fine, but an SSD will give you better performance.
Like this random example for a 1 TB HDD - [link]
You then install it internally into the PC case and connect it to power and the mobo. Google vids on how to install a 3.5" Desktop HDD, it's pretty simple. Or search for and look up a manual for your system/case.
Hate to break it to ya but the only things worth anything are the 500gb ones and a new 1tb HDD is like 50 bucks fam [link]
You'd probably be lucky to get 20 bucks a piece for the 500gb ones seeing as a used 1tb might fetch like 40 bucks, and the others aren't really worth much, sorry.
But the main issue is that it's unlikely people are gonna wanna buy a mix of HDDs for that kinda money, better to list them by individual price
Im seeing the reviews on the ASRock AB350M Pro4 are that half say its amazing and half says it will work for a month and then start freezing. I'm just worried if it will work. I also think my disk is the problem because when my games start to mess up my disk goes up to 100% so I was going to buy [link] if thats good. I also wanted to ask. does the case matter in compatability?
I might have one at home I can part with. Need a new boot drive? Are you looking to keep it?
If you've got Prime, you can also get a cheap internal hard drive with one day shipping.
edit: The WD Blue series are cheap and reliable, all with next day shipping
Bad harddrive, you want like this or any other sata 3.0 HDD. The one you picked can only support half as fast as sata 3.0.
Can drop the CPU cooler, don't think you need it. But this is more of an opinion.
A standard 24 inch 1080p monitor is worth the 10-20$.
Sweet, thanks. I'd be safe in just getting something like this off Amazon, right?
And is there any buying guide on the subreddit for GPUs?
Ditch the 250GB SSD for $159 and instead get a 1tb HDD for $50. [link]
You will get the exact same performance gaming with an HDD since your game data is stored in ram while you're playing.
The only difference is that loading screens will be a little bit faster, and your PC will take a little less time to boot. That's about it.
The extra 750gb make the HDD worth it in my opinion, not even considering that it will save you over $100.
But honestly, I would recommend 2 internal HDDs, even if one is just a cheap ass 250gb. That way you have one drive that contains your OS, that will get corrupted and wiped from time to time. And then you have another internal drive for storing your files and documents so that they are protected from corruptions on the C drive and won't be lost when one you have to wipe it.
I don't want to spend another person's money, but it is only an extra $20-25 for a "full-size" 1070 ti. The mini leaves little headroom for overclocking and, as you mentioned, will be louder. Though you may not need it now, in the future you may decide you want to try your hand at overclocking, and from what I understand, the 1070 ti has great overclocking potential. Also (again with me spending your money), you can find a HDD for another $50...
So, basically, you can get a lot more out of your PC build for ~$75 more. Otherwise, build looks solid and you will enjoy it.
I'd get an HDD, if I were you. 500Gb fills up faster than it used to, and especially if you're going to be loading the OS off of it.
A 1 Terabyte Hard Drive costs about $50, and to me, the stress of not having to worry about anything filling up is worth the cost alone. And $800 will still be really good for that computer!
No, I was incorrect. It's actually £20/tb. If you're looking to buy a 1TB for £40 then just buy it on Amazon.
I'm looking for a HDD that I can put games onto. I read that as long as the drive is 7200 RPM it will be good for gaming? Will this one be fine? [link]
It's certainly 1tb, 7200rpm, and warrantied. I think your price is a bit high for a one-year old drive, but GLWS
There is only one standard for SATA cables.
And that is a really poor price for a tiny harddisk. Get this instead.
The Bitcoin blockchain is currently 121GB. If we 8x the entire chain from its genesis block, we get 968GB. A 1TB HDD costs $49 on Amazon.
THE ENTIRE BLOCKCHAIN TIMES EIGHT FITS INSIDE OF A $50 ALUMINUM SHELL.
Remind me why the "But I'll have to shut down my node" argument is valid again?
Does this WD Blue 1TB Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch [link] require any kind of prep? I installed it into my first PC and the bios won't detect it.
I'm personally not 100% sure on the performance on Pentium chips in general but assuming thats sufficient for the games, the only other thing I'd change is the hdd.
I'd go with something newer. I have a bad feeling about a $26 old velociraptor drive, sold by a third party seller, as your primary system drive. For $25 more you can get a terabyte and a brand new drive. I imagine as well that performance isn't that different between a really old 10k RPM drive and a brand new 7200RPM drive.
Is there a way to check if my HD is too loud? I built my pc two weeks ago and my new HD, well, is louder than my previous drive. Not sure if something is wrong or it's normal, since it's a 7200 RPM drive and my older drive was 5400 RPM. Or maybe I didn't place it correctly in the case/needs foam pads.
HD is a WD WD10EZEX Blue, 1 TB. Case is GX500, if that matters. I just want to know if everything is fine or not, the noise is not disturbing.
The plan was to buy a HDD at a later date since i couldnt really afford it with my budget without sacrificing some performance. Is this the one your suggesting i get? [link] and thank you for looking over my build.
Hey I came to the conclusion that a 7200rpm drive would be better in the long run too. Which one were you thinking of getting? I was looking at the Western Digital Blue and putting it in an enclosure.
Most modern 7200 rpm 1 TB drives have 64mb's of cache. Such as this one: [link] . Yes there will be a difference is speed, but not a very big one. Mostly with moving small files around. However when looking at smaller than 1 TB drives platter density will have a bigger effect on speed, The smaller the storage amount, the less dense the platter which means slower performance. It wont really be that big of a difference. However it's been a while since I've really looked at HDD's, I keep a 3 TB drive around for longer term backup and do most of my work off of an SSD.
If you want bulk storage for games opt for a 7200rpm one. It will load your games faster and not be that much more expensive. I would get this one.
WD Blue, pretty much just plug and play. You'll probably have to go to disk management and initialize/format it, but it should be pretty easy.
Thank you for the advice. I found this HDD on amazon and forgot to change the list. When you refer to a "500b" what part are you referring to? Sorry if it's obvious, I haven't worked on computers in a few years and I'm a bit rusty.
Just installed this one in my best friends new PC not an hour ago. It's fast, and really good priced.
What kind of audio setup do you need? I don't completely know how to set it up fully, but Ardour may be a good option along with Voicemeeter's Virtual Audio Cables (donationware; can get 3 full cables for like $1 if you want - what I did). Ardour isn't free and has a steep learning curve, but for $1 a month or $45 for lifetime license, it's become essential for my recording purposes and seems to offer better quality than Audacity.
Now, major question: Are you recording to the same drive that Windows is on? If so, PLEASE DONTTTT!!! That will bottleneck your recordings and other stuff if you decide to do it. It's recommended that you have a dedicated harddrive for just recording and scratch discs and stuff. This is mine and it's been amazing for me: [link]
Now that I think about it, even though that CPU is an i7, I wonder if it could be bottlenecking your GTX1080. I would think that that in itself could affect your recording capabilities. But I can't verify that because I'm mostly an AMD CPU user and other people will probably have a better grip on hardware than me. I'm more of a software person.
If you really need the hard drive, go for this one instead. The one you listed is pretty slow @ 5400 RPM. THis one is cheaper and faster @ 7200 RPM.
Finally, consider getting a different GPU. For the same price or cheaper, you could pick up a GTX 1060 which should give about 10-15% more performance than the 970. The 1060 performs directly between the 970 and the 980, so it would definitely be a good choice. You can actually find some for around $250, so look for those! You could also spring for the RX 480 depending on your needs, but you would have to look into that more yourself :)
Let me know if you have anymore questions
No, not essential, you are good to go with that. Just depending on how many games/movies/music etc you download at once, you could start to fill up your 250g ssd. A 1tb HDD will give you plenty more space and is pretty cheap. Plus you can add one whenever you want.
If not the 980, what 970 model would you recommend? I see the GTX 970 SC with Blower Cooling, but it's over 10 inches long, and I'm not sure if the performance from the GPU upgrade would outweigh the necessary removal of the front fan.
I also originally replaced the built-in HDD from my R2 with a 1.0 TB WD Blue HDD after the original Hard Drive failed, and it ended up significantly improving the performance of many of my games. (Particularly MGSV: Ground Zeroes)
Do you recommend the same procedure for my R3, giving I have the money to replace the 7200RPM 2TB HDD, or do you have a better recommendation?
EDIT: 7200RPM vs 5400RPM? What's the difference?
Link for WD HDD:
Sooo I didn't realize that I bought this HDD that came without the original packaging, manual, mounting bracket, screws, or cables. So in other words all I got was the bare bones HDD.
I'm kind of a noob when it comes to PC building so I didn't even think to look out for stuff like this, so should I just return it and buy one with everything that I need? Or are these parts pretty cheap and easy to come by? This just seems a little odd to me...I don't know why they would sell a brand new item without all of the necessary parts it needs.
OP, please spend the extra 20-30$ upgrading that hard drive to 1tb.
Living with 250gb is stressful.
Hey guys, easy question but I'm in a bit of a hurry and thought I'd ask here. I currently have an SSD, a HDD and an external harddrive. So far my internal HDD seems to be working but I think it's making a weird noise from time to time and while downloading things on uTorrent I keep getting "hardware error". So I decided to start downloading stuff to my external HDD for a while to see if the problem persists, and while the noise is still there, no more errors downloading stuff.
So I'm thinking of buying myself a new harddrive. A quick look at Amazon shows this is the best selling HDD.
When I built my computer a long time ago, I remember I had to check things like the CPU socket being compatible with the motherboard. Do I have to look into any incompatibilities when purchasing a HDD? Thanks. Pretty sure the answer is no but just in case.
I know some specifics by heart, but not all of them. At work, not at my built-PC atm. I'll try my best and fix if needed later.
16 GB ram
750 Watt PSU
Radeon 7850 GPU
MSI motherboard. Might be getting a new one anyways so if you can recommend one with the crossfire'd Rx-480's, that'd be great.
WD Blue 1TB SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch Desktop Hard Drive (WD10EZEX) 2 of these. Also, should I look into an SSD? I hear they are better at some things, and worse at others?
It's possible, but it's less than desirable.
You'd be better off getting a HDD for like $45/1TB.
I'd get this:
You really should buy a better hard drive, it's double the price but I think it's worth it. I would by this:
I think there are a few areas you could save some money, for example I'm guessing the 1TB will be for media and you don't really need the extra speed from the WD black. You could get a WD blue and that's ~$25 right there.
The 500GB ssd is plenty of room for your OS/games unless you want to have a ton of games installed.
Thanks for the help and recommendations! I'll definitely consider upgrading to an SSD soon, but just based on my budget for this week and the fact that I want this ASAP, I think I'll wait on it. Thoughts on this? [link]
To save costs up front I've decided I'm going to start off with just a normal HDD, and then buy a SSD a couple weeks later. How easy is it to move Windows successfully from the HDD to the SDD (I'm imagining incredibly easy, but I don't know)
Whats the difference between Western Digital blue and black hard drives? I was going to buy a Western Digital 1tb blue tonight (this one) since it seems like the standard for everyone, but I don't know the difference. This is a good hard drive right?
It could be in "perfect condition" but that doesn't make up for it being horribly outdated.
Less than $50 man:
WD Blue 1TB Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6 Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD10EZEX [link]
Reason for me buying this instead of building is because I'm looking to expand and get familiar with building. I don't feel comfortable going in with no knowledge and only having youtube/reddit by my side. I'd rather gradually expand on one, rather than build it from scratch. At least for now.
Also - I'm probably going to end up buying a new HDD. I was looking at this one: [link] but I've never installed one before. I understand what you need to do, such as: Install SATA connector/psu connector, and mount the HDD - but I'm just not sure how to install a OS onto the HDD.
As you may have noticed, my current HDD isn't detected. It shows up in the BIOS - but I'm unable to install a new OS because it doesn't detect any partitions (or the actual drive). Would purchasing a new HDD solve this issue and just make it so the system detects it? That way I can install a OS? My current hard drive seems to be "Locked" or something. It's just strange how this PC was built with new components, and it died that easily.
I'm beginning to wonder if the components were cold when I first booted the device on and it destroyed the hard drive. I didn't really sit and wait a few hours before plugging it in. It could of also got banged around during transport and something killed it. I just don't know.
I would personally use the extra £10 and upgrade the HDD to a WD Blue. Double the size, spins at 7200RPM instead of 5900.
Your right. Here is a good one I found:
Western Digital Caviar Blue. 7200rpm, 64mb cache. Costs around $60 CDN and is a solid drive.
Looking to upgrade my hard drive with some of the solid Cyber Monday deals going around. I've heard WD is a solid brand, but apparently they have a lot of varied models? Can anyone provide some insight?
I was looking at this one, for what it's worth.
Unnessecery i7 (unless he's doing more editing etc than gaming) Save $100 and get a 4690k
If not planning sli in the future the 850wpsu seems a waste (More $$$)
dvd drive necessary? it's 2015
And yeah wtf is up with the external hard drive??
grab this Even more ($$$)
Now you could put that money towards a better gpu or peripherals
Well I'm honestly pretty strapped for cash right now. As much as I'd love to have an SSD, I need an internal drive that's at least 1TB. I only have about $50-70 to spend after looking at my budget right now so I opted for a 1TB WD Blue. 800GB is the closest I've ever gotten to filling up my current drive so I'm pretty sure this will be fine. I can't afford a 2TB one from what I was looking at, which is fine since I'll likely never fill up the drive anyway.
Also there's the matter of my case being only big enough to fit one drive since it's pretty old. I want to do a new build eventually, and I'll definitely have an SSD when I do.
And the drive I got is faster than my current one so I think I'll see some performance gains on that front.
I'm definitely going to take your advice into account and jot both those down for when I do a new build.
Edit: Specifically I got this one: WD Blue 1TB Desktop 3.5 Inch SATA 6Gb/s 7200rpm Internal Hard Drive [link]
Seemed like it had solid reviews on Amazon and Newegg so it went for it.
On a budget? Pick up a wd10ezex for $52
A guy running an i5 and GTX 570 out of a cardboard box
I'm gonna have to agree with the others who have commented, green drives may be less power consuming, but they are noticeably slower. Plus I think blues might actually be cheaper?
Right here, on the right you can order directly from amazon. It might be out of stock right now though so it could take more than 2 days shipping. But its not the most important part of the build so I think you can wait. Another option would be the 7200rpm Seagate but Id stay away from Seagate and just wait an extra couple days for the WD Blue Caviar.
Ah, so should I scratch the SSD altogether and have one big internal HDD? Or is it possible to have both? The hdd would be this one:
I removed my serial number, thanks for warning me. The problem is still persisting and I've done another check with HD Tune which showed no problems on the drive. There aren't really any problems apart from the Witcher 2 and 3. Thank you for all your help but I'd rather just buy a second HDD and use that for gaming purposes.
I'd like to ask one more question. The drive I'm hoping to buy is here: Amazon Link. From looking at my computer specs would this work in my PC?
I'll support you that the WD drive seems to be the better choice, assuming this is what you are talking about:
It seems to be selling pretty well and has a better rating overall than the barracuda on Amazon, and it's actually a bit cheaper!
Either way, thank you for the help both of you! I'll probably go with the WD.
Using linux for a gaming pc? I wouldn't. Also i would go for a i5 instead of a Xeon. You should probably get another HDD maybe something like this. You will use the SSD within like 1 maybe 2 games if you don't use a different hard drive. Other than that, cool! :)
980 is complete overkill for 1080p gaming. There would be a small difference between even the 960 and 980 for 1080p on one monitor.
Trust me, you will be wasting a lot of money unless you plan on upgrading to a 1440p/144hz monitor (or even 4k for that matter).
Go with something cheaper, you won't use that extra power in the 980.
Here is the cheaper HDD.
I'd switch out the WD Green for something faster, given that it's your only drive. The Green series is a variable speed drive, and will often run slower than the 5400 rpm advertised. I don't know how much storage you require, but I'd go with WD Blue 1 TB for €58.50.
Hard drive does not make any sense. 500gb isnt that big also it is a laptop drive 2.5", a desktop drives make more sense and are cheaper per GB like this. twice the size for only $5 more. Spend another $10 and you can get the faster black version as well.
WD Blue 1TB Everyday PC Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, SATA 6 Gb/s, 7200 RPM, 64MB Cache - WD10EZEX [link]
I have contacted amazon so I will see what they have to say but that information you offered would be super helpful too. Thanks!
I'm new to pc building an while choosing between two HDDs I saw that Western Digital Blue 1TB was the same price as a Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM hard drive. Which one would y'all recommend I get?
I ran out of screws for my harddrives to attach them in the pc and I was wondering how I could get more.
This is the hard drive: [link]
Go to Amazon and get one of the following:
Western Digital 1TB Blue - $44
Seagate 1TB BarraCuda - $44
Or you can spend $15 more and get twice the storage:
These are all 7200 RPM drives and are from a reputable source.
Edit: Changed 2TB WD to Black, which is 7200 RPM
You can buy either part for the same price combined, so this bundle saves you nothing.
> Problem 1: blockchain becomes 1 tb in 1 year
Where is that stat from? What size of consistently large blocks are creating a 1 tb yearly chain increase? What would the value of the fees and blocks of that size be? What would the value of 1 BCH be at the point where blocks are at that level?
> Problem 2: internet sucks!
How do you rectify the idea that users are supposed to be running a full node, but not mobile (spv) wallet to do most commerce unless you are home all the time? The very idea that everyone in the world should be running a full node is just silly. How many people do you know that can not even be bothered to back up their photos from their phone? The vast majority of people in the world will never run a full node. However anyone that wants to will still be able to. 1tb a year is not an expensive ($47 and cheaper every year) addition to securing your own finances. Running a full node and then expecting the average person to use the rube goldberg machine of lightning for "cash" transactions at the same time vs the simplicity of reasonable block size increases that follow value, volume and demand is a losing proposition. Nature prefers simplicity.
Hey, I just got an extra 1TB WD HDD for Christmas. I am local too, let me know if you want it.
first of all the difference in startup is more like 4 minutes once you factor in all your programs starting. windows itself takes ~1.5 mins to startup on a spinning disk.
second of all,
this + this is the same price as this.
it’s better to go with 2 if you have a desktop where you have pretty much unlimited drive space.
in a laptop, you either have only m.2 slots, so you can only go for ssds, or you have m.2 and sata, so the same advice rings true (m.2 ssds are an extra $5-10 at most).
you can put windows, chrome, steam, discord, any adobe products if you use them, and 1-3 games on it.
keep in mind 2tb hdd’s go for $45 sometimes, so you can get double the storage as an sshd, with an ssd, for the same price. no reason not to imo.
Ooh, drives, sorry I thought you just mispelled drivers lol my bad. I got a WD 1 TB PC Hardrive.
Here's an amazon link to it:r/[link]
Listen, take a breather. It seriously sounds like if anything's damaged, it would just be your HDD. While that is lost data, it sounds to be partially functioning. I would follow my instructions of the USB-to-SATA adapter and back up your data while you still can if you suspect I'm right. Here is a link to a good HDD worth looking at if you want, as well as a USB-to-SATA cable. It's worth mentioning that there are different cables to choose from there, you should figure out which one looks like it'll fit by taking a look at your hard drive.
Ah, I see. How do you know if an hdd is sata 3? I'm considering to buy this hard drive as a replacement, but it's only labeled as sata 6.0 gb/s.
here's a metric everyone can understand
should i get this one instead?
Alrighty buckle your seatbelts cause here we go!
Base Computer from Ebay:Dell Optiplex 3010 MT i5-3470 3.2GHz 8GB RAM 500GB HD Win 7 Pro ($159.99) -[link]
Graphics Card: MSI GAMING GeForce GTX 1050($144.88) -[link]
HDD Upgrade: WD Blue 1TB ($49) - [link]
Power Supply Upgrade(Power supply that comes with the prebuilt is usually 265-285W which is not to par with the rated 300W for the gtx 1050, that being said i ran one for 2 years on a 265W with no problem as the system will usually not draw more than 180W): Rosewill RD400S, 80 PLUS Certified 400 W Power Supply($32) -[link]
Total = $385.87
SO, in short, this PC is a mix of used and new parts. In this pc market its one of the best ways to tackle getting into PC gaming. In terms of specs this computer will most likely outperform any build from scratch pc at the same price range as you're saving money on components such as RAM and an operating system. This computer will play max setting at 60 FPS for all the games you mentioned above, it can also play games such as GTA 5, Fallout 4, and PUBG at decent settings.
I hope this helped if you have any questions feel free to reach out.
These were the 2 drives I was comparing 7200 or 5400
Yes, those are examples of it being used for RAM, because RAM IS memory. But that does not mean that memory is not also storage.
All I am saying is that memory is not exclusively RAM.
Memory stick: [link]
Memory cards: [link]
>I could literally list every PC manufacturer.
And I could keep listing uses where memory does not exclusively mean RAM.
You could save $60 and gain 500 gigabytes by swapping the SSD for an HDD like this.
Or you could combine both hard drives and get a 2tb for $65. Although, I like having an internal drive that's not carrying the OS where I can store backups.
250 gb is pretty small anyways and you'll probablly be constantly having to move data to the HDD to make room for more. In which case the transfer will only go as fast as the HDD will allow anyways.
Also, having an SSD will make the computer boot faster, and games will load faster, etc..
But for gaming once the loading is done you'll get the same frame rate and performance as you would with an HDD.
It really only affects how quickly you can access data, and HDDs are by no means sluggish anyways.
Do you work for Umart?
> Seagate Barracuda 1TB Green 3.5in HDD
> AmazonAUS: $91.00
Or you could buy this better alternative for $65 and free delivery. 1TB 3.5 inch drive prices are not reliable because nobody buys them any more.
> Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB Gaming Mouse
> AmazonAUS: $144.38
Hard drives these days are not that expensive. I would suggest buying a new one love. Here is a link, I am not sure if you are Canada or US, but you get the idea.
Ryzen 3 1200 Rs. 8965
MSI B350 Gaming Plus ATX Rs. 6556
8GB RAM Rs. 6799
1050 Ti 12,408
Seasonic S12G 550W 6,700
WD 1TB 3,560
Keyboard + Mouse Rs. 850
Dell s2216H Rs. 8,500
The Seasonic S12II 520W PSU is selling for 6,300 while the newer and better model, S12G, is selling for 6,700. So, if the price difference is similar in local shops, better invest in S12G. You can buy 430W PSU, but it might give less headroom in future if you wish to upgrade. Still, if you want to save some money, get the 430W Model. Stay away from the rest of the cheap PSUs.
You can get 1050TI a bit cheaper if you search your local market, and even a bit mroe if you go fo the Zotac 1050 TI mini 4GB.
RAM is around 5-6K.
A good quality case should cost you around 3K max.
You can save even more if you go for G4560. I won't recommend that, though.
You can play many games at high setting with enough FPS for smoother experience.
I know I said TWO builds, but the second build consist of a much cheaper CPU, G4560, but like I said before, I won't recommend it.
> Memory might be relatively cheap but HDDs are not
Your insane dude, [link]
Those stats are for commodity Seagate Barracuda and WD Blue drives.
WD Blue 1TB, $50 Amazon
Seagate Barracuda 2TB, $60, Amazon
Good luck finding a cheaper hard drive over a terabyte.
Your hard drive is pretty insignificant when it comes to competitive gaming performance. Most hard drives are perfectly fine.
Its this one: [link]
40 bucks for a WD blue 1TB 7200
That's not bad...
this one unless you have a suggestion since I'm not in the know of HDD's
I was planning to build a pc with a similar budget but ended up getting an older pc to upgrade from a relative.
Here's my partlist tho, it's about $800 without a monitor, keyboard and mouse, etc.
According to benchmarks on youtube this kind of build should be able to run AAA games at 1080p, maxed, 60fps+.
I listed an SSD (like a hard drive but a lot faster) that has 250GB, but you could switch it out for (or just add) this 1TB hard drive that is pretty popular: [link]
Alternatively you could a more expensive but better value HDD: [link]
Feel free to ask any questions (I haven't actually built a pc yet, but I've been looking online about it for a several months now). Oh yeah, and a great place to pick your parts is pcpartpicker.com.
Edit: Oh, I also chose a mini tower mini-ATX motherboard and case, which is smaller but may be harder to work with and offers some expansion but not as much as a mid or full tower with ATX. PCpartpicker has a compatibility checker that only shows you compatible parts when picking them, so that should help if you wanted to change some parts in my list.
brand new that drive is 50
The HDD is a tad bit sketch, you can get a straight up blue for $10 more and it is 1TB.
As far as the power supply, get this one instead, it is a bit higher quality (neither are great, but the N1 is the worst one EVGA sells). I believe it is cheaper as it is on sale.
I don't really know much about wireless network adapters to make a recommendation.
It's not that the Ryzen won't give you better performance than the i5 without OC. It's just that it won't give you its best performance.
But even without overclocking, I think the 6 core Ryzen will be more VFM for you than the i5 considering they're both about the same price bracket. I would suggest you get the Ryzen with a B350 board and not OC right now if you don't want to. But the board will allow you to do so, if you feel the need later.
EDIT: Here's a similar budget build to your current one. I've used some of the same parts as well but dropped the optical drive.
Ryzen 5 1600 - 16,529/-
Gigabyte GA-AB350M-D3H - 8,065/-
Corsair Vengeance 8 GB 2400 MHz RAM - 4,430/-
WD Blue 1 TB HDD - 3,590/-
Zotac 1050 Ti - 11,725/-
Cooler Master Elite 310 Case (comes with 1 fan) - 2,340/-
Extra 120 mm case fan - 320/-
Deepcool Aurora DA500 80+ Bronze PSU - 3,255/-
BenQ GW22740 6,757/-
APC 600VA UPS - 2,300/-
Dragonwar Storm Gaming Keyboard & LED Mouse Combo - 1,254/-
Total - 60,565/-
Ok, this is a little expensive but since you said you're willing to go up to 40K:
Pentium G4560 CPU - 4,620
MSI H110M Pro VH Plus Mobo - 4,145/-
Corsair Vengeance 8 GB RAM - 4,400/-
WD Blue 1 TB HDD - 3,609/-
Sapphire RX 570 OC Pulse GPU - 15,399/-
Corsair VS 450 PSU - 2,400/-
Cooler Master CMP 250 Case - 2,415/-
Total - 36,988/- (without shipping cost)
One stick of RAM so you can upgrade to 16 GB later if you want. And a decent GPU so you can play the latest games with a good experience.
EDIT: Just noticed you want WiFi and Bluetooth on the board. In that case there's the Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WiFi for 12,990. But that's an ~8K difference, taking your total budget to 45,833/-. Everything listed is kinda cheap so you could probably reuse your existing hard drive to save at least that 3.6K, bringing it slightly lower to 42,224/-.
The cheaper option would be to add a USB WiFi+Bluetooth Thingamajig for 399/-, taking your total budget to 37,387/- without shipping cost.
yeah, for an extra $10 you can get a full TB. here, [link]
That sled will work IF you are upgrading to an SSD or laptop sized HDD.
If you are going to use a desktop HDD, (like this: [link]) you will need the sled for larger drives (like this: [link]).
Found one, is this good?
these are good drives, and are dirt cheap.
If you really need cheap and not more than 300gb
Is this a storage?I'm new to building PCs
WD Blue isn't an SSD. [link]
You're going to want more than 512GB storage for gaming. I'd recommend getting an HDD for games that don't benefit from the use of an SSD.
Depending on your budget I'd recommend one of these two.
1 TB, $50 ($50/TB)
3 TB, $90 ($30/TB)
Still, they are out of my budget(Seagate Firecuda)
Can only afford this->
(I have 3 WD Blues)[[link]] and none of them make that sound man, or the vibrations.
Something like this?
The WD Blue is pretty cheap on amazon atm. I've used them in multiple builds.
You can get 1tb WD blue drives for $50 all day long. [link]
I bought all three of those over the weekend. Sadly the sales ended Saturday. The only one still on sale is the 1Tb HDD for $49.99
Just to make sure, is it this model?
7200 RPM, 1TB, 3.5"
Given that you've already experienced data corruption / loss, and that a drive with those specs can be had for about 50 bucks these days, I really wouldn't bother with reusing that drive.
Also keep in mind that for double the price you can have four times the storage
Yep it's 7200rpm drive
If you're getting another platter drive, just about any 7200rpm drive will do. The Western Digital WD10EZEX is cheap, reliable, and benchmarks at around 160MB/s. That would be fine for recording 1080p 60fps.
If you're getting SSDs for your OS/games disk, I've used both the Samsung 850 EVO and the ADATA Premier with great results. Both of those systems have 2 SSDs in RAID 0, for double the read/write speeds. That's not necessary, but it is cool to have over 1GB/s in read/write.
Either option should help with the hard drive bottleneck. I haven't checked benchmarks for your 4590, but that's a relatively new chip. You could always add more RAM, but only if you deem that you need it. H264 likes to eat memory. That will improve your encoding times if you're editing your footage in Adobe Premiere or Sony Vegas. I think you should be fine after recording to a separate drive though. If you're still having issues, it may be aggressive/overly demanding settings in OBS.
Looks like a good build!
Whats with the price on that hdd though? Isn't this the same one.
Also here's the 4gb version of that video card for pretty much the same price.
Is there a way you could get the OS cheaper (through school maybe)?
The ones I've seen are 7200 like this one: [link] if the ones you're seeing are slower, then go with the blacks.
Would reccomend this hdd.
For the RAM consider that in most cases mhz are more important than latency, and the 3200-2400 gap is use compared to the cl16 to cl15.
Last: at the same price (320€) the rx 480 8GB is a much better deal. Consider it, even if u prefer nvidia over amd for your own reasons.
Here you go. Get two or more of these and run them in RAID and you'll be good to go.
This one here;
WD Blue 1TB SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch Desktop Hard Drive (WD10EZEX) [link]
Blues have low performance (budget oriented), but there are 7200rpm models
You can buy a brand new 1TB HDD on Amazon for ten dollars cheaper: [link]
You might want to adjust your pricing.
It will drop about £45
Give you a total of £84 spent on storage.
would you get that or this [link]
and would it fit in my pc?
Yeah I went with this and a 250 GB SSD for my build. Cheap and plenty of storage.
It's a Western Digital 1TB Internal Hard Drive. Give me a moment and I'll find its specs.
Any 3.5" drive should work, so something like this
I have this one do you think it would be a problem?
Alright so hows this for a build:
rx 480 gpu
r500 tower case
i5 6600K cpu
WD Blue 1TB HDD
Corsair vengeance 16gb (2x8gb)
Decided not to go for liquid cooling. And was told that SSDs are not required, only if you wanna go the extra mile
This is around 70 sing dollars? WD Blue 1TB SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 64MB Cache 3.5 Inch Desktop Hard Drive (WD10EZEX) [link]
the king: [link]
Yeah, hunk a junk. If they only use it for internet browsing then you could probably get away with buying a new HDD like this one:
Then installing a new low overhead OS like Ubuntu Mate. Makes old computers fly and would be great for internet browsing and email.
okay thanks and will this hard drive be okay? [link]
Okay, I can get a mounting bracket no problem. Would a WD Blue be a good HDD to use? Specifically this one: [link]
Again, another external HD question. I'm operating windows 10 and am concerned when compatibility in the product description doesn't say "Windows 10". Should this combo work fine? I plan to use just as a backup for my computer. Thanks
*edit Internal hard drive and external casing
You should do that with german prices. they are not the same over here, and I don't think you would want to import from the UK.
The two builds are not equivalent. The first uses a newer skylake processor and has wlan integrated in the mainboard. The second has a stronger gpu and a SSD.
I would change it a bit:
pc-kombo shared list
Replace the case with a smaller one, like [link].
That's not bad. You don't want the V300 though, it sucks. There are 380X for the same price as that R9 380.
HDD is WD 1tb I may open up my computer, blow some canned air in it and reseat some parts.
It costs 637€ without the OS, sorry to be slightly above the budget.
The idea with the i3 is alright, you won't get an i5 with a solid gpu in germany. But the 750 Ti won't drive new games, so I upgraded it to the R9 380, which is a lot better. The build has an ATX case because it is cheap, but there is nor harm in switching that to microATX if you get something for the same price – maybe something really small like [link], but you'd have to check that the gpu fits.
I would go with this WD HDD instead of that Seagate one. It is a few bucks more, but Seagate HDDs are known to be unreliable. Also I'd swap out that Sandisk SSD for this PNY 240gb SSD because for just $1 more you get a write speed of 520Mb/s as compared to the Sandisk's 350Mb/s write speed.
Radeon 390? That's a very beefy card. An i5 4460 or even better if you can afford it a 4690K would be amazing, paired with 12 to 16 GB of RAM and an adequate PSU, that would most likely have you sorted.
I've nipped around Google, now that I've got a better idea of what you're looking for. Here's some parts:
*RAM On a side note, if you look around on the related products for the RAM, there's other colours which may suit your scheme better if you're going for aesthetics.
*Solid State The solid state is completely optional. If you install your operating system to it, the entire system becomes snappier and more responsive. I can vouch for it.
*Power Supply 650W should do you nicely. Corsair make reliable PSUs, which I can once again vouch for. My end of this conversation is currently being powered by Corsair.
The only thing this is missing is a case. Many people have many different choices in cases, some even have old cases they can reuse. When case shopping, just make sure it has room for your 390 and your 3.5" HDD, 2.5" SSD, and a mATX board.
I feel as if I should apologise for the lack of .nl websites. I'm not sure about the likes of import charges or anything, but if it's a problem I'm sure you'd be able to find the same parts on Holland-based shops.
Like /u/Mved stated, you don't need an aftermarket cooler for a locked cpu. If the stock cooler is too loud in the end, it can still be changed later, though that's unlikely for a normal build.
I am conflicted about the i7: Normally, the i5 is indeed enough for games. But if you plan to use this build with this mainboard and processor for a very long time, the i7 is more futureproof – and in any case, you will have better min-fps with it. But: For144Hz even on 1080p, it would be nice to have a stronger gpu like the GTX 980 to profit more from that. So I switched to an i5 and went with a cheaper mainboard to make that possible.
If you opt for 1080p@60 or for 1440p, or if you just decide that it would not bother you to have some FPS less, a R9 390 would have a better price/performance. And then a i7-6700 would easily be in the budget.
Will this do? [link]
Yes, but 3.5" will be cheaper and faster.
Can't beat a [WD 1TB Blue](www.amazon.com/Blue-Desktop-Hard-Disk-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/) for the price, and I don't find 'em noisy.
If you want more than 60 FPS on max settings, you will have to get a better gpu. This build contains a R9 390, which is a lot more powerful than the GTX 960 and will get you nearer to that goal. Otherwise, a locked skylake cpu on a B150 mainboard for best price/performance.
It looks good to me. I'm uncertain on the power supply as I have no experience with the brand. Also I prefer this hard drive but its personal preference. [link]
This one is one sale right now and only $1 more then the 500GB model. If you have the money ascend your storage while the sale last. Good luck brother.
If you are not overcloking, you do not need a cpu cooler other than the stock cooler. You can also go with a B150 mainboard instad of the Z170, saving some money. 8GB Ram are enough for games currently, if you have no other specific usage that would be enough.
Also, german prices are quite different. You can set pcpartpicker to Germany at the country selector at the top right.
This would be a reduced build with the same idea:
The R9 280X has around the same speed as the R9 380X, faster in some and slower in other games, and is a good pcik as long as it is that cheap.
See [link] to get an impression. The i3-4330 had 30 FPS, the i5-6600 40. The i4-6300 should be somewhere in the middle of that.
With some changes you could fit a gpu in there:
This is a low-end skylake build, and in the future you'd want to upgrade the ram and add an ssd. But it would play those games good enough for some time.
Consider getting a cheaper mainboard and another cooler (the 212 Evo is in Germany a bit too expensive for what it is). This psu might be a bit better. And the WD Blue is a better alternative to the HDD that does not cost much more, but don't you need a bigger HDD?
The SSD is cheaper on amazon.
With some changes you could upgrade to skylake for around the same money:
To have DDR4 will be nice if you can then re-use it in your next build, the small performance boost is not bad at all if the price is so close.
If you are not set on overclocking, get the i5-6500 instead, drop the cpu cooler and get a cheaper B150 mainboard. It's not a big hit to performance, but a lot cheaper:
In the Corsair website [link] it says that your case has space for a Graphics card 414mm long. The Sapphire R9 390 is 308mm loong so it will fit.
I would get both if possible. The 250GB SSD for your operative system/programs and games that have many loading screens (like Skyrim). And an 1TB HDD for mass storage (other games, movies, fotos, etc).
I would go with the ssd i said above (850 evo) and this hdd: [link]
Feel free to ask any questions.
Don't know about going lower but I do know that you can get more bang for your buck. For instance, you can get One TB HDD bare in mind it isn't as good as its 1TB WD Black, and the 960 is the closest competitor to the 380 for a little cheaper (Like 5 to 10 dollars cheaper)
AMD 8-core 8350 @4ghz AM3+ - $150
ASrock 970m Pro3 AM3+ motherboard - $56
1TB WD Blue 7200RPM HDD - $45
G.Skill 8gb 4x2 DDR3 memory @1600mhz - $30
Can get a 1TB Blue for the same price [link]
this one work?
Brand new is ~$40 right now. Check out /r/buildapcsales , I can't remember where it was listed at.
edit: Amazon, and its $45
is this good?
is this good
I'm not sure. The pricebot can probably tell us.
Do you want a normal 1080p display? This one would be an option then. There are too many options for the keyboard, [link] could already work.
Feel free to ask any question you might have.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Gaming PC für 800€:
Besonders die PSU hat mich amüsiert.
Mindfactory 800€ Build
Den Core 2500 gibt's nicht bei mindfactory habe aber ein ebenbürtiges Case genommen. Wesentlich bessere CPU und PSU, etwas bessere GPU und der Rest sollte gleich oder annähernd gleich sein.
Mindfactory 725€ Build mit möglichst gleichen Komponenten
Jetzt noch zu dir ;)!
i7 4790k ohne k und integrierte Grafik. Hyper threading inklusive (für deine Streams). Hat auch einen besseren Passmark Score falls dich das interessiert. Guck auch mal hier! (Streaming ähnelt vom Aufgabenbereich her Rendering) Eine bessere Grafikkarte als die GTX 970, wenn du unbedingt schlechtere Performance für mehr Geld möchtest dann tausche die aus. Sehr gute PSU, 240GB SSD und alles andere ist relativ standardmäßig.
Das Geld welches übrig bleibt kannst du in eine gute mechanische Tastatur (K70, MX Board 3.0, 6GV2) und eine ordentliche Maus stecken (G502, Finalmouse, Zowie FK2). Was dann noch übrig bleibt würde ich für die nächste Grafikkarte weglegen.
You don't need 8 extra gb of ram. You can take that out and replace the HDD with a wd blue one. [link] Replace the monitor with another one, that one isn't that good. You can use the money from the ram you'll leave and get a refurbished asus monitor to save some money [link] or [link] if you want to buy new.
1TB HDD, 7200RPM, for $52
For the price point that PSU is pretty decent. Another option I found in the same price range is this one from Seasonic:
Here is the HDD I mentioned
The case you chose is actually a good case as long as you are okay with not having an optical disc drive (I watch Blu-ray movies on my PC so I need one, but many people go without them it seems). The case you chose has the good airflow and space you're looking for.
You wont get far with just a 250gb ssd. Throw in a 7200rpm HDD.
This one is very popular.
Do you have a 5400 rpm HDD? I remember having the same problem with 8.1 on my old laptop, and it slowly got worse and worse... It's absolutely ridiculous how incompatible the newer Windows OSes are with non 7200+ hard drives. Speaking from experience, I tried basically everything I could find online (shutting down the services, rebuilding the index, changing search settings), and I ended up giving up my 1tb "slow" hard drive for a 250gb ssd, and it solved all of my problems. I feel for you, I really do, but upgrading your HDD will save you so much headache.
EDIT: saw in another comment that you're waiting for the money to upgrade to an SSD. If you have a 7200 RPM drive lying around or can find one online (they're ~$50 now, and you can find decent-sized for cheaper), it might be a good band-aid solution for the time being. You can also get a $48 120gb ssd if you don't have a lot of media content or need too much storage space (which I would recommend if you can deal with a small(er) hard drive).
Which would u recommend then between these 2 western digital ones? [link]
Here is a beastly build! Keep in mind that prices on these items are only come down on Prime Day. Ideally getting things similar to these parts but cheaper will work well.
For the cpu, I went with the intel i5 4460. The i5 is simply a beast processor, and will be eons ahead of your laptop cpu, and will handle any games out there with ease.
For the motherboard, I went for the Gigabyte D3h. This is a high class motherboard, with great build quality, plenty of pci slots for future expansion, plenty of sata ports for future storage expansion, and a great bios (Own a gigabyte board, love the intuitive and easy to use bios.)
For the ram, I went with 8gb. 8gb is plenty for all games out there, and a single stick config allows you to run dual channel 16gb in the future, if you get into video editing, or something like that!
For the ssd, I went with the Samsung 850 EVO. Great price-performance, and super fast read and write speeds. Amazon always is selling Samsung ssds for crazy low price, so keep an eye on this for sure! I went for the WD Blue 1tb. Great storage and reliability.
For the gpu, I went for the MSI R9 390. The R9 390 is truly a beast, and make your laptop pale n comparison. You'll easily be able to run any of the games you want to play at 1080p at high-max at 60+ fps!
For the case, I went with the Fractal Define S. Great, great case for the money, and it is just awesome. I have one, and it looks great, great build quality, comes with two ultra quiet fans, rubber grommets for the hdd to reduce noise, they really thought of everything. Check this out if you still are unsure! For the psu, I went for the GS 650. Great psu for the money, and comes with a fanless mode for silent operation, plenty of power, and is OEM'ed by Seasonic, one of the best psu makers out there!
Here you go bro, let me know if you have any questions, good luck on Prime Day!
how about this one?
its a bit ober budget but thats acceptable
Here you go. You may be able to salvage the hard drive from your old computer to your new one, and use that for storage. I've included an SSD as it will work much faster, however, your HDD may not work, because it MIGHT be the cause of the BSOD (maybe check the code that it gives and google it to see what the problem is coming from). If it is the hard drive, just grab this hard drive: [link]
nope, SSHD is a kinda dead technology, plus those are only 5400rpm. better go with a nice WD Caviar [link]
I have the following parts that are still BNIB:
Corsair Spec01 case
WD blue 1tb
Asus M5A78-M USB3
AMD FX 6300
As for used parts I have:
8gb generic RAM
AMD 7850 GPU
Corsair 430w PSU
I'm looking to bundle these parts together to cut down on shipping expenses.
If you are interested, I can assemble and ship this PC for under your budget depending on how you want it configured.
You can save a bit and get a bit faster HDD with this
It's going for $53 on Amazon right now.
Then you could modify that build like this:
I could have sworn it said 2TB but it's actually 1TB.
/u/landonmeh mentioned a similar Seagate drive. It's practically identical to this WD but the WD are known for being a tad more reliable. But both should be fine.
Could someone tell me the difference between the WD Blue 1TB and the WD Green 1TB? The HD is the last thing I need to purchase for my build.
Well.. that hard drive is beyond outrageous price-wise. You should be able to find one for about $50. Also, you don't really need 2TB, unless you plan to store tons of videos or something. 1TB should suit you well.
You don't need a z97 motherboard if you aren't overclocking (which you can't with that processor). Here's a slightly cheaper one, that does the exact same thing, except no overclocking.
If you don't need the 5.0GHz wifi card, then you could save $20 with this (If you don't have a newer/expensive router, then you probably don't need the 5.0GHz wifi card.
You could also look around and probably find Windows for cheaper. Sometimes you can find it on sale for about $20 less.
This should save you at least $200, mainly from the hard drive.
> A 7200 RPM 1TB hard drive costs me a consumer, about 200 bucks.
More like $50-60.
With the motherboard being only Sata II ports. i would suggest getting a higher capacity regular Hard drive.
instead of paying about 50-100$ for 128gb. you can spead about the same/cheaper for 9 times the storage.
Western Digital Cavier Blue
EDIT: forgot to mention, Solid state drives are only really effective when using a Sata III port.
the difference between a sata 2 and a sata 3 port is the transfer speeds. Solid states only are better than hard drives when they can use their full read and write speeds. which a sata 2 port doesnt allow.
EDIT 2: If you had the extra money and WOULD like to upgrade to a SSD and use it effectively. i would suggest this motherboard . ( i own it and its theoretically the upgraded version of your board you have now)
I have this HDD: [link]
Looks good, but make sure you have proper cooling, that cpu is prone to run hot, your pc should have 4+ system fans, you may want an after market cpu cooler as well.
Also you may want to invest in a faster hard drive: [link]
Last, make sure your case is high quality, I recommend this for all budget builds: [link]
dont get it from best buy.
I'm not suggesting you get product 1 or product 2, just saying don't get it from bestbuy.
Thanks for the reply. On issue 1, here is the tutorial I have been using: [link]
I'll start again with everything but the SSDs unplugged next.
On issue 2: this is the hard drive
WD Blue 1TB SATA 6Gb/s 7200rpm Internal Hard Drive [link]
(Amazon was easiest, I'm on my phone)
How do I go about doing what you suggested?
EDIT: Found how to write zeroes through cmd. I'm doing that now. It's been at 0 percent for like ten minutes but a terabyte is alot.
EDIT2: Been another 10 min and it still says 0 percent. I checked the task manager's performance charts and this disk (E) is being used 100%. Is this a good enough indicator that the process is working?
EDIT3: Aborted that after an hour. I then downloaded the correct Western Digital Data Lifeguard Diagnostic Tool, installed it, and it errors out "DLDIAG Windows has stopped working" anytime I agree to the license agreement.
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so maybe the WD blue and something like /u/ForgerOfPie suggested, in the Ripjaw 1x8gb?
and is this the wd blue you were thinking- i couldnt seem to fine it on partpicker
I was thinking of replacing the 8gb RAM with this, [link], 16 GB G.SKILL Ripjaws.
And the processor, [link].
Is that all right?
Go with the Xeon E3-1231 if you can afford it. It will be much better for video-editing and rendering and is a great halfway point between an i5 and i7.
16GB is actually a good choice for video editing and Adobe applications. I constantly used up 8GB on my old machine.
I would definitely recommend a better GPU if you can afford it, even if it is just a 750ti.
Also, for $5 less, you can get a 1TB HDD.
If you need to cut costs, you can just go with an i5-4460.
Oh, and if you just have to get Windows 7, just get the Home Premium version for like $50 cheaper.
And here's a cheaper PSU.
Oh, and cheaper (and newer) motherboard.
Unfortunately you won't be saving any money by buying these individually
Don't get a green WD drive. You can get a blue at 7200 rpm at the same price. [link]
I got This HDD.
Also I think that before installing mods Skyrim loaded twice as fast so I was thinking whether there are any mods in particular which increase load time.
I read that 1tb is the sweet spot for storage and speed balance. A HDD gets slower as it fills so the bigger the drive the slower it gets: [link]
Also getting a dedicated HDD for recording is good advice (1 for recording, one for game installs/OS/everything else).
the higher the rpm will also make a difference, 7200 is your best option (or higher if that's a thing). And partitioning your HDD also helps. As it gets slower, you should partition a section for recording, once you're done move it to the larger part for storage. For example i bought a 1tb WD blue HDD for my fraps recordings, partition the first 300gb, which is plenty for if i want to record for a few hours. Then after i move it to my other partition (600gb) and then i can record more back on the first 300gb (fastest part) or edit and delete those files on the storage part. It takes often up to 30 mins to move the files, but you get better speeds and hard drives are often the bottleneck for recording and you may drop lots of frames or just get bad fps if you get a cheap one.
Here's the HDD i have, i own 3 of them now ^_^ [link]
Ditch that hard drive and double the storage for the same price:
I wouldnt get a Seagate HDD. Seagate have the highest fail rate out of the major manufactures. I would go with this: [link]
Also get this CPU cooler instead of the TX3. It provides better cooling for only a couple of pounds extra: [link]
Overclocking is easy. Besides, there are a ton of tutorials on YouTube on how to do it.
I fixed the prices for your build. The PCPartPicker prices were way off. Made a few changes.
Check out Flubit. You'll save around 10% on every part from Amazon. The WD Caviar Blue price is a little off below, but Flubit will make offers on this price, saving you even more money. You'll get the build for less than £800. Use the rest of the money however you like.
You can even get the 980, and use Flubit on that too. This build with the 980 will be just over £900, maybe £920 or so.
Thank you for the info! And due to a sale on amazon, that model is actually cheaper! To confirm, this is the product you are talking about? [link]
this one good?
EDIT: yea i already checked theyre compatible!
Buy the 7200rpm 1TB HDD.
Then buy a 256gb SSD.
Put your OS and your most used programs/games/etc on your SSD, and then use the HDD for your pictures, videos, less used programs, etc.
The SSD will outperform any 10k HDD
Found a 1tb WD Blue on Amazon Prime
WD Blue 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, 7200 RPM, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache - WD10EZEX [link]
Same Specs as the WD black but labeled differently.
Well that one you linked in green is about as military as it gets; actually, it seems like a really nice case, especially with those handles on top. This is a really nice case that focuses on sound dampening and doesn't have a window. It does have a blue LED power light when on, but that's it.
Get this drive.
This is what i bought [link]
It's 7200 RPM so i'm assuming i'll be fine
Try using this magical thing called the internet. https://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-TB-PC-Hard-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/
Return that drive and then go to Amazon and get one of the following:
Then you need 3 new HDD......
And they make 7200rpm ones as well. Like I said, $49.99 on amazon right now. [link]
since when is a linux distro like ubuntu, mint, arch, etc. not free, its the only os I even use now, and I still game, and yes you can get windows for free as a student...
there is your 49.99 hdd for 15$ more than the one on the list
also no shit they are going to sell it cheaper than the parts cost... they want to lock you down into their eco system so you have to buy their games for their prices, much like windows might do...
There is not much use in going with the i5-6600k. See this article, the i5-6500 performs very close.
For 1440p the GTX 970 is the wrong choice. A R9 390 has better performance, more Vram, and the energy usage is not that much higher, especially not when compared with an overclocked version of a GTX 970. It will run under linux, but if yeah, the propretary nvidia driver has better gaming performance, so if that is your focus under linux you might want to stick to the GTX 970.
I left in the Z170 so you can profit from faster ram and for enabling you to still overclock if you really want to. But this in no way a must.
Those coolers come with thermal paste pre-applied.
You can upgrade the Windows 7 in there to Windows 10, or just install Windows 10 directly usign that key.
Can I convince you to reconsider? A Z170 board costs 40€ more. The i5-6600K 60€. You would additionally need a cpu cooler, that are at least 20€. So you'd pay 120€ for nothing in the first years, apart from maybe faster ram and some motherboard connectors. It would be way more economical to save that money now and to use it + 200€ in 4 years to upgrade mainboard and processor.
The overclock-build could look like this:
I was not able to fit the bigger SSD in there while staying in budget. Also picked a cheaper case, and a higher-wattage psu.
You can certainly cut down on the price for storage. Do you really need 2 tb? If so you could just get two of these bad larrys That saves at least $30 right there.
a new hard drive is usually a cheap way to speed up a computer older then a couple years
So where does this leave the 1tb? Just wondering if the WD is worth nine dollars more.
I would reccomend switching out the Seagate drive for this, Ive had way too many Seagate drives fail on me.
this is the one i have its even better