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Not sure what you mean by "average" but the idea is to beat the lowest available price. For $1.57 more I can order it on Amazon and have it at my house the next day. Just saying
This and a more complete set of bits has proven well worth it to me as I have added more and more pistol red dots. I bought it originally for a gas block that required an inch/pound torque setting.
If you have tools like an iFixit Kit just watch videos on scope mounting there’s a shit ton of them out there on YouTube.
Disassemble your rings from the scope and unmount from the airgun. Might need to bend that top cap ring to flare it out to drop that scope tube. Use some medium grit sandpaper from the hardware store or from your garage. Find where the burrs are on the ring halves that are causing scratches on the scope take that medium grit paper and sand them down till the scope can easily wiggle around without sounding like they are scratching. Often times on cheap rings just the outside edges need some minor sanding. However if you do the inside rings just sand till the paint start to flake away as its just aluminum.
Your going to need a Wheeler FAT wrench cause I don’t trust you. 🤣
Base Cross Screws tighten to: 20in/lbs (click twice)
Top Ring Cap Screws tighten to: 15-18in/lbs (click twice)
• reset your wrench back to 0 once done.
Mount it all back to your scope once you get your wrench and after you finished sanding. Adjust scope so its comfortable with your eye and ocular lens.
As for your rear wobbly sight I hope the threads aren’t stripped...🤨 you have to unscrew it completely it might have two screws as another could be hiding under the elevation detent you may have to undo. Once you found both screws add blue lock tight just a droplet to the end not much. Barely coat the thread screw it back in hand tight its only plastic let sit for 24hrs to cure. However if the sights are not loose like they are falling off theres no need yet. The plastic sight will wobble as if loose but thats normal for windage/elevation as its only cheap plastic.
If your unsure contact your guns customer service.
The Wheeler torque wrench is marketed to gun repair and maintenance tool but it is perfectly suitable for the 3d printer work
This is what I use to install scopes. (Amazon link)
The documentation that came with the scope and the rings should have the appropriate torque, or you can almost certainly find it online. $43 is a decent investment to keep from cranking down too much and stripping the screws or, worse, distorting the scope tube or too little and having a wobbly scope.
$38.24 on Amazon Warehouse + Free Shipping.
Scope rings and caps do not need any loctite. If the scope tube is moving inside the rings themselves chances are the ring caps are not tight enough. For this reason is why I recommend a Wheeler FAT Wrench.
Sometimes there’s burrs in the threads if you tighten by hand that will make you think you’ve bottomed out the screw on cheap rings. Plus you don’t want to over tighten around your scope either to potentially crush/crack the glass inside.
Also use rubbing alcohol to remove any finger/machine oils off the tube body and inside rings themselves. The same goes for the screws as well. Whole process with the right tools should take all of 10-15min.
I found that using a torq screwdriver was a great investment and gave me POM that I didn't under or over tighten during the build
this is what I purchased [link]
There's the analog version from Amazon. I have one, I like it, it seems to work well. I don't have anything to test it against, so I don't know if the torque it puts out is accurate, or if it's the best of the best, but it's good enough for me.
I broke a few v6 brass nozzles and one e3d aluminum heater block so i got a cheap 1/4" drive harbor freight inch\lb torque wrench. E3d says 3nm torque which is about 26in/lb. The torque wrench was very awkward and I broke my mirror tile once when I dropped it. Now I switched to a torque screwdriver which I am happy with. Currently I am using e3d copper volcano heat blocks and NozzleX which are both a little harder to strip then the brass/aluminum parts.
There would be no difference so long as inch pounds of torque are correct per manufacture specs. I have the same or similar scope and torque the rings to 18 inch pounds per Vortex specs and the mount to 30 inch pounds. This works AOK for me.
The instruction manual that came with my Vortex Viper PST scope did not specify torque values. I found a tag in the box "ATTENTION: DO NOT exceed 18 inch pounds torque value on the ring screws." Caps as written on tag. They seem serious.
For other folks reading this: pretty much universally scope manufacturers will beg you to not use loctite on scope rings.
Instead use a torque driver like the FAT wrench and torque bolts to spec, usually 18-20 ft-lbs.
If screws are still loosening up it's probably because the threads/ rings are poor quality. And for the love of dog, if you do decide you need to use loctite, only use BLUE NOT RED.
It might be worth investing in a torque driver like this in the future. And then some good quality bits too. But this comes with some that fits all the gas block screws I’ve tried. Sometimes no torque rating is specified, but 25 in/lbs seems to be a good spec for most. Even that is pretty friggin tight.
Only built one AR so take it FWIW. But I did swap the gas block on it twice 😂
Also make sure you don't over tighten your rings to much. Thats one one of the issues I see a lot. I use a FAT Wrench torque wrench to install all of my scopes. 18inlbs is about right. Amazon has them pretty cheap.
Now, the only place I ever need to use torque values in the minuscule amounts the manual requires is in building rifles and cars. Note, I also don't have my mk3 yet. However, a good torque screwdriver can be had from Wheeler off of Amazon:
I actually own a Craftsman torque screwdriver that works just as well. You'll have to convert nm to in-lb, but the screwdriver works the same. 4.5nm is ~40in-lb btw.
I can't say with any certainty but it wouldn't surprise me if many electricians don't use torque tools.
I'm not a pro but I got me one of these "firearms" torque screwdrivers because I like to do it as correctly as possible.
Failing that I'd say that it's probably better to over-tighten than to under-tighten, so long as you don't strip or break the threads.
Get something like this [link]
Tourqe it down to spec and do like ppl say. Go from one side to the other. Right tool and technique will get you a correct mount and no chance of squeezing the tube due to excessive force. If your not sure of the needed force something like the tool i linked will give you piece of mind. And i can recommend buying lapping equipment.
Save the money you would have spent on a gunsmith and buy a $50 torque wrench.
Depending on the rings you buy, you may need blue loctite. Before you tighten anything, close your eyes and find your natural cheek weld. Open your eyes and move the scope forward or back to suit. Level the scope. You can use bubbles, but I find squaring a flat surface on the bottom of the scope to the rail is more foolproof. Use torque wrench to tighten everything following instructions that come with the rings.
If he doesn't already have one, buy him a Torque Wrench. I use mine all the time when working on firearms and it's a shame that so many firearm owners overlook this crucial tool until they go full He-Man and strip threads. That said, if your boyfriend was a marine he definitely knows not to over-torque screws but the benefit of having a torque wrench is that it just takes the guesswork out of torquing screws.
The Wheeler FAT wrench is a good quality affordable adjustable torque wrench.
The sets with preset wrenches are more precise, but are quite expensive. If I were a gunsmith or a benchrest shooter I'd upgrade, but the Wheeler serves 90% of the population's needs.
I mounted it back when I was first getting into guns. I bought this wrench and set it to 65 inch lbs, which is 3 shy of the manufacturer's recommended torque, and figured I was good to go.
Fat wrench is the best thing ever. Amazon
Go on Amazon and get the Wheeler torque wrench.
Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench [link]
Isn’t that wrench $35 on amazon? Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench with Inch/Pounds Measurement, Bits and Storage Case for Scope Mounting, Gunsmithing and Maintenance [link]
Same price on Amazon now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/
Same price at PSA: https://palmettostatearmory.com/wheeler-engineering-fat-torque-wrench-screwdriver.html
Amazon with leveling system $75: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V2P98H7 which matches all time low on Amazon. Edit: Apparently the leveling system regularly sells on amazon for $40 now so this "bundle" is actually just the current price of the two items.
Note Amazon just changed these prices. The price changed during a page refresh less than 5 minutes ago.
What gun are you going to put it on? It comes with an RMR adapter plate. A glock has an MOS mount for example (not an RMR), so you'd need a plate that does Glock MOS to Holosun 509T, like this:
Also if you're going to install it yourself, make sure you use blue loctite and a wrench like this to install it with the proper touque. If you tighten it down too much you can strip the screws easy:
This is what you need.
Order soon and you might have it by tomorrow.
Don't overtighten ever again
Your rifle will have (2) threaded sling studs that have holes through them to attach a sling. You can put an Allen head through them and just twist them out (Lefty Loose / Righty Tighty)
Clean out the holes real good with a little bit of solvent on a q-tip, place the rail where it goes (the 2 holes in the rail will line up with the 2 threaded holes in your stock)re use on of the sling studs, put a drop of blue loctite on each thread and torque it down to 45 Inch Pounds and let it dry overnight before you clamp the bipod on. Buy yourself a Wheeler Fat Wrench.
Use Vortex rings. I have them on my Ruger American and they are amazing. I can't remember which model they are but /u/vortexoptics can chime in. I use the ones that have size screws. I got my torque wrench on Amazon for like $45 from wheeler. Here it is.
I'm gonna poke around vortex website and see if I can find the rings for you. This is they. They are not the best thing Votex offers and I can't even find them on their website anymore hence why I had to hunt down amazon. These things work though. They aren't as good as some of my other rings but you can't beat the quality for the price.
or good ole trust amazon. 40 bux prime
am i high?
it's $35 on Amazon with prime
Real deal in the comments. Free shipping and free returns through Amazon.
The best thing you can do is invest in a good inch pound torque wrench, I have this and the digital version of this: Manual Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench with Inch/Pounds Measurement, Bits and Storage Case for Scope Mounting, Gunsmithing and Maintenance [link].
Over torquing and under torquing bolts under recoil are the most common reasons for bolt failure.
As far as loctite, blue is fine but some better stuff is VC3 Vibratite Vibra-TITE 213 VC-3 Threadmate Threadlocker, -65 to 165 Degree F, 5mL Tube, Red [link]
You put it on the threads, let it dry 15-30 minutes and it’s good for 5 removals/installs where blue loctite is a one and done thing.
All my info comes from: several years of being a state certified firearms instructor/ watching what all the high speed guys on YouTube are doing (mostly guys from Centrifuge Training).
That is a very helpful video! - Thanks!
I would also recommend picking up a Wheeler FAT, accurizing torque wrench AND the additional bits. - "Buy once, cry once." (No, I'm not compensated by Wheeler. Just what one of the "senior" guys at the range recommended, who hasn't been wrong yet. - It works, a good value and yes, you will need the extra bits.)
I believe Holosun recommends tightening to 15 inch/pounds, w/medium/blue thread locker.
You won't use the wrench/bits much but you'll know you did the job correctly and can help others. - Maybe you'll get offered a beer or other sundry, for being a "go-to-kinda-guy."
This Wheeler looks to be the go to for many on Reddit gun subs: [link]
There is also this compact set which looks pretty neat - though it's pricey, and has questionable reviews: [link]
Deal link: Amazon (additional 15% off coupon on app)
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Hmm. Personally, I would be more on the tool side. A couple ideas are: torque screwdriver, brass punch pin + hammer set, armorer’s wrench, and a 3/8 torque wrench. Not sure of available space, but a decent bench top vise would also be nifty.
With those, he would be able to work on a wide variety of projects.
Oooh, almost forgot, maybe a dremel/ rotary tool set?
Like Hollywood said, basic rifle maintenance will necessitate taking off and re-mounting a scope. Buying a Wheeler Torque Wrench, and some bubble levels will save you quite a bit as opposed to taking it to a shop to mount it every time. Alternatively you could YOLO the torque specs with some allen keys until you want to buy the torque wrench, its up to you.
Don't buy a laser boresighter. They're trash.
Unless your scope is near the extreme end of adjustment out of the box I doubt you'll be "off paper" at 25 yards.
Not every scope can withstand a double recoil impact in this case a Hawke Airmax is bomb proof fantastic glass with an etched reticle to boot. But there are cheaper options like Gamo or Hatsan Optima scopes as well but you may end up with blurry and slight distortion upon final magnification x9, x12...etc. Once you get a quality scope it really comes down to your set of rings or a ring/riser combo shown in the OP’s photo. There is usually a recoil stop pin either on one of the dovetail scope ring or on the riser itself which must be set inside the hole of the rifle otherwise with each shot the scope ring assembly will start driving itself backward.
Only tool you should invest in is a Wheeler FAT wrench. Scope manufactures have torque settings for rings to ensure your not under or over tightening your rings this way you have equal tightness around your optic and clamped onto the dovetail itself.
Cap Screws: 16-18 in/lbs
Base Cross Screws: 20-25 in/lbs
Arisaka leveling tool, loctite, get a fat wrench for proper torque
Yes. A lot of times those armorers kits are made as cheaply as possible and are marked up in price because they're "specialty tools". I would get the bit driver set over the screw driver set, it'll give you more options and more often the not the magnet that holds the bit in place will also magnetise the bit itself. I also suggest picking up a fat wrench so that you can torque down your optic mount. Many mounts call for 20-30in/lbs for torque, which is easily achievable with one finger, meaning you can overtorque it easier than you'd expect.
I've never found the need for brass/nylon punches on an AR, not when I was an armorer for the military or during my time as an armorer on the civilian side. Yes, you can mar your finish with a steel punch but not if you give it light taps, and any pin that needs enough force to drive that it'll mar the finish with deform any brass/nylon punch anyway.
Fat wrench $42 shipped on amazon
What rings did you get? If you get quality rings you don’t need to lap them. I would watch this video and this video on how to mount a scope. I would invest in a torque wrench to do it so you don’t hurt your scope - I wouldn’t hand-tighten it. The Wheeler Fat Wrench is the one I have, but I kinda wish I went for the Vortex Torque Wrench because it goes in 1 in/lb increments. You will probably need to buy more bits, so figure out which bits you’ll need ahead of time. The torque wrench will also come in handy when installing your chassis.
Something like this is still a hand tool, but with no actual numbers in the manual you have to find out all needed torques by yourself.
Here is the cheaper analog version
Here is the digital version that I bought.
The right tool for the job.
loctite blue and aeroshell 33ms for the barrel install, also great for installing a freefloat handguard and scope mounts. [link]
Ive found luck with this punch set, although the 3/32 did bend a smidge when I was pounding the hell out of it when pinning my gas block. also a rollpin starter punch set is a nice addition.
What the PC master race needs is precision.
i use this one now if you're interested, really worth the price
Since everyone recommended the Wheeler I put a price watch on it. Today it dropped to $19.39 + $5.43 shipping. Just a heads up in case anyone was interested.
Edit: Apparently they priced it as a mistake. My order still appears to have gone through though.
It is back to $51.40 plus shipping from the seller I bought it from.
I would ask a buddy if he has a torque wrench or screw driver in lb/in. If not, here's one I'm probably going to buy. It's best to eliminate as much as you can with the hardware. If everything is to spec, you've at least eliminated your rig. There could be a little bit of cant in your reticle. I'd also read this article to make sure you've eliminated cant in your reticle to the best of your abilities.
Howto post pics to reddit can be found here.