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I really recommend the dual gear extruder. It's a really cheap upgrade that will fix a lot of issues and open the door to new materials.
It's most likely what's known as filament skipping. Reducing printing speeds can help with this. Also as a temporary fix if you have too much tension you can disassemble that extruder and remove the spring holder from the screw on the tensioner. It's that little thimble looking piece in the spring. This will slightly reduce the tension and may help.
Though the stock ender 3 extruder is terrible. I have had many failed prints due to that gear stripping the filament, so I would argue replacing that extruder is one of the more important upgrades I've made.
Here is what I bought for my two ender 3s and it has worked very well and I haven't had a failure since. Just make sure you recalibrate your steps/mm after installation.
I'm not that expert in 3d printing, and I don't really know if the 200% flow could be an issue as other people mentioned in the comments, but I had the same problem with my Ender 3.
I don't know what printer do you have, but on my Ender 3 the spring that pushes the filament against the extruder motor wasn't strong enough and sometimes it couldn't push the filament through the hotend, so I bought a replacement on Amazon which is a dual gear setup and it also wears out the filament way less than it did before.
Edit: I just read you don't have an Ender 3, my bad, but maybe you might have the same problem...
Just drop-in. The only configuring necessary is you'll have to recalibrate your e-steps, which is good to do anyway.
This is the one I got and seems to be the defacto choice from what I can tell:
I definitely recommend a dual gear extruder like the Micro Swiss, BMG, Bondtech, etc .... I'm also a fan of having the shortest possible filament path so I'm also using direct drive. I've used one of the dual gear extruders like this one:
it didn't last long because the steel gear ate through the extruder arm.
Your extruder, if it is not the all metal dual hobbed gear type, not if, but when (now?) you will have some kind of feed failure!!! At MINIMUM, I recommend this upgrade if at all possible!!! Yes, it does look like your temp is low...definitely do your temp tower BUT also do the extruder upgrade especially if you have the junk OEM plasticky one!!!
Dual Hobbed Gear Extruder...
Which extruder do you have? This one?
WINSINN Dual Gear Extruder, Works with Creality Ender 3 CR10 CR-10 Pro CR-10S Tornado Upgraded Aluminum Drive Feed for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament [link]
If so check that the gears haven’t worn down
you might need a better extruder, the one on the right looks like it has irregular extrusion. Try increasing your hotend temperatures . If that doesn’t work, buy an all metal extruder
Yup, another cracked plastic extruder! This is a well-known design flaw in the CR-6, with lots of posts online about how they often break in just a few months. It causes the extruder to lose it's ability to accurately feed the filament into the hot end due to slippage. Go for a dual-gear metal extruder. They are not very expensive unless you go for a high-end name brand like BMG. I use this one: [link] After calibrating the E-steps (A must-do for any extruder change) my prints have been much nicer, and much more accurate.
It was a dual gear red metal one off and ender I had. Like this one:
I ended up printing a spacer for the filament sensor from thingiverse since the extruder is higher than the filament sensor. It's much better than it was but still trying to figure out why it's printing like crap still.
Hate to say it, but regardless of how long you've had your Ender 3 printer, the extruder is the FIRST thing that should be tossed in the trash!!!
Get a dual gear extruder like this...super duper easy replacement!!!
Winsinn Dual Gear Extruder...
PS-- You may have to slightly adjust your e-steps after replacement. "Teaching Tech" YouTube Channel has an excellent calibration guide...I just don't have the link at the moment.
Ok but how do I reduce the tension on the spring the screw is all the way back my extruder set came with the stock silver spring like a normal ender 3 and a yellow spring I used the yellow one (This is the extruder [link])
No. There is one with dual geared rollers. The many versions sold on Amazon all have steel rollers on aluminum lever arms. So the roller grinds a groove and can jam.
As others stated, direct is a bad idea. Instead, get a dual geared extruder. Standard extruders have a single gear engaging the filament against a bearing. Dual gear extruders use two gears to move the filament. A single motor runs both and they are pretty standard fit so no mods are necessary. It allows for a bit more force before skipping. You will need to calibrate E steps and you will need to pull off the existing gear.
I don't remember which one I got (wishlisted and gifted to me) but here's an example. link
That's the same configuration as the factory extruder...only in aluminum. If many small retractions are done having the hobbed drive on one side will chew through one side of the filament causing it to break, curl & jam. Get the dual gear hobbed configuration like here:
This is an ABSOLUTE MUST upgrade!!! First time I saw & used the dual hobbed gear config was on my new Ender 6. Once my E-Steps were calibrated, retract & coasting set properly, I couldn't have asked for a better quality print!!! Z-seam was practically INVISIBLE!!!
That’s the dual extruder. Am I missing a spacer beneath the gear? During installation there’s no adjusting that gear, only the other one that goes on the motor
While some say direct drive and dual gear is the best (and they're right), you can get dual gear setups like this, that will at least disallow the TPU to bunch up after the gear heads. I used one similar on my Ender 3 successfully. If you dial in your extrusion and retraction rates well, you don't have to worry about the elastic expansion that happens in the Bowden tube (i.e. your feed rate matches what your nozzle is capable of without trying to push more than what's coming out through the nozzle at any given time).
ugghhhh I feel your pain. I had trouble with this every single damn time I had to refill the filament. sadly the only answer is to just.... keep trying.
once you get used to your printer, its worth upgrading the filament feeder. this is what i have now and its way easier to feed filament into: [link]
Just a note and nothing against you, but you NEED to get a different extruder mechanism!!! The plastic one that creality gives you is total shite!!! I had one on my Ender 3 but just the other day ordered a dual gear, dual hobbed mechanism. After swap (15 minutes or less jobbie) you'll probably have to re-cal your e-steps. My Ender 6 has this style and it's like night & day!!! Here's a link to one I bought on Amazon:
Dual Gear Extruder...
Like I said, I have no experience with dual gear extruders. The one you sent is probably fine. I know a few people who have been happy with this one
Just keep an eye on it and make sure nothing is wearing down over time
I never heard mine squeak, but after attempting to tune my e-steps I found that the lever arm had developed a crack where the idler bearing bolt mounts to the arm. Ended up replacing it with this unit from Winsinn on Amazon.
Since replacement I've had zero complaints, and print quality has improved dramatically.
My original extruder mechanism only lasted a few weeks, granted I was printing close to 24/7.
I had gotten an Ender Pro 3 just this last Christmas. I had purchased this Dual Gear Extruder from amazon. I wanted to replace the black stock extruder. The new dual extruder arrived today and I installed it.
But I ran into problem after problem with it. The first problem was the E 42-40 stepper motor. There was a metal gear on the shaft of the stepper motor and it in the way of me trying to install the gear that came with the kit I purchased.
As result, I pulled off the metal gear from the E 42-40 stepper motor shaft with some pliers after a couple of hours of attempts. Then after I removed the gear. I put the gear that came with the metal extruder kit on the E stepper motor shaft and as I did this and was putting it back into place I realized the shaft wasn't long enough to feed the filament.
I measured my E 42-40 stepper motor shaft and it was 0.5 inches long. Then after researching online I found the E 42-40 stepper motor shaft is supposed to be 0.88 inches. I am lost on what to do now. Please can anybody help me?
I listed some pictures of what it looks like on my ender and a picture of the kit I got off of amazon.
That stinks, it does look like it isn't included.
If you are going to upgrade, you might as well go with something like the BMG clone from Triangle Labs. It ups your steps into the 400's and that means that your stepper doesn't have to work as hard.
If you aren't up for that, then look at dual geared extruder here.
I’d give this a go mate, I’ve had good results and upgrade all my printers to this:-
WINSINN Ender 3 Dual Gear Extruder CR10 Pro Upgraded Aluminum Dual Extrusion Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruder For Creality CR-10 Pro CR-10S Ender 3 Tornado 1.75mm Filament [link]
Brass one is for the stock single drive extruder for ender 3 v2 (or v1)
The bottom one is a bond tech style dual drive extruder wheel. That was not from a stock ender 3 v2. Did you take this motor from a different printer or different extruder? This is the kind of extruder that uses the bottom gear
Do you understand that you need to remove the bottom wheel to put the brass one on?
can you explain more where you got your parts and what you're trying to do? Because it sounds like you're really confused, or you're making everybody else really confused.
Not sure where you get this from... I don't need an enclosure for PETG all day in a bedroom that has a hvac vent near it.
This is a extrusion/temp/speed issue. OP needs to tune Esteps for PLA, then do calibration on flow per filament type as each type/manufacturer is different. and temp needs to be around 230-250c depending on stringing. PETG also likes to run a bit slower than PLA at times, but I generally run at 60mm/s
I ended up at ~88% flow for PETG when esteps is calibrated for PLA w/ the metal extruder like this one: [link]
and a micro swiss all metal hot end (but the hot end is not required - it does make it easier)
Unfortunately, youll want to upgrade that to a dual gear for likely around the same cost. That one is just a metal version of the ender 3 plastic one, this one uses a different drive system to push filament so you can get more retractions without deforming it or destroying it.
The stock extruder doesn't have enough mechanical advantage in some situations, and will often click even after you do the spring fix. The long term solution is to buy a replacement "Dual gear extruder", which isn't too pricey and is a reasonably straightforward update. Link (UK)
WINSINN Dual Gear extruder I've been using one for over two months and I've had no problems.
Have you tried replacing the Extruder with a dual WINSINN Dual Gear Extruder, Works with Creality Ender 3 CR10 CR-10 Pro CR-10S Tornado Upgraded Aluminum Drive Feed for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament [link] gear model? That solved a lot of my problems.
Here is the one that I picked up. You can find the same one on AliExpress for much less.
BTW, I actually upgraded past this one to a BMG clone. That is one of the best extruders out there. I wish I would have know about the BMG earlier and I would have skipped that one entirely.
Among many issues I had with mine out of the box, the biggest issue was that the Vrefs for the stepper motors were set to the values for the 1.1.4 board instead of the 1.1.5 board. (And they need to be MUCH higher to function reliably).
Thanks to some help from this group, I reset mine and my print is finally printing again!
Here are the values I used:
Additionally, I find the "upgraded" extruder gearing that comes with the E5 pro to, how do I put this politely... suck ass. So I upgraded to a dual extruder gear setup (Bondtech clone) and I haven't had an issue since. ($14-15 on Amazon) The kit includes no instructions, so pay close attention to your current setup (adding in the missing cap, obviously) and/or find a video online.
This is the all metal extruder I got
Don't take this as gospel, I'm pretty new at this myself, but...
I think the clicking is happening because the extruder is trying to push filament down the bowden tube faster than it can come out of the nozzle.
I replaced my extruder for a dual-gear all metal one, here: [link]
...but I still got the clicking.
I also went through teachingtech's printer calibration tutorial here: [link]
I discovered that my flow rate was pretty high and that I should dial it back to about 80. I usually set it to 90 for first layer, and 80 from layer two onwards. I now find I get a little clicking on layer one and almost none from layer two.
Also, calibrating your e-steps from TeachingTech's guide may well help.
One final thing; feed rate may be affected by a partial blockage of your bowden tube at the hot end. I found mine was really blackened and replaced it with a capricorn tube. Make sure the tube is properly cut and properly inserted if you do this. Youtube is your friend here.
I had the exact same issue and installed this dual gear extruder. Haven’t had extruder issues since outside of my own mistakes. From what I understand, the dual gear extruder is easier on the filament.
No worries! Luckily I noticed it in time to return the single one, but the one I got is only like $15.
here’s the Amazon link.
This is the one I used until I went with a direct drive setup. Any of the aluminum dual-gear ones should work fine
This is the dual gear I have been using and have nothing but great things to say about it!
Here's the one I ordered!!
I really like this one that I bought, BTW. [link]
here you go
Wait I did install an new extruder,
I install the winsinn dual gear extruder
How do I recalibrate the e-steps?
So, i have a single gear metal extruder, which is pretty much identical to the stock plastic one, but it's made out of metal. They also make dual gear metal extruders (like this one right here [link]), which have 2 gears instead of 1 gear and 1 idler. The advantages are better grip, more precise extrusion, even at lower temps, and it's a bit easier to print with flexibles.
eSteps (extruder steps) are the number of steps that the motor has to make to move 1 mm of filament. It is recommended to calibrate them so the extrusion is precise and not over/under extruded.
Here is a great video that will help you understand the relation between the extruder itself and the eSteps: [link]
I would get a Duel gear aluminum extruder, skip the bond tech ones I tried it and two clones and had nothing but problems...just get one like this Get those stiffer yellow springs, you can order a 6 pack of them for super cheap, I promise every "yellow" upgrade spring for ender on amazon/ebay are all the same thing from the same place, none of them are better than others just find the cheapest ones you can and order those
You don't NEED a Capricorn tube (the blue tube) right away but I will tell you the tolerance on it is much tighter and honestly if you are going to print PetG just get it for peace of mind.
Once you get get the new aluminum extruder, calibrate your e-steps and enjoy your really really nice prints.
Once you get past those super easy upgrades, you can step up to the touch screen and silent motherboard which is a super awesome upgrade and really isn't hard
There is always the elephant in the room that is BLtouch I think it's a useless upgrade personally, It takes me about a grand total of 15 seconds to relevel my bed every 20 prints or so but again that is a personal opinion I know some people live and die by them because they can't manage to level their beds manually.
which brings us into the last thing you can do is upgrade the bed itself go to lowes/home depot/menards or anyplace that sells glass and ask them to cut you a chunk at 220mm by 220mm (tell them 8.6 inches cause their machine is in freedom unites) It will cost you a grand total of like 3 to 4 dollars, after that get a magical sheet of PEI and slap that thing on the glass and welcome to the secret world of never having to use glue, hairspray, painters tape, unicorn blood, and all the other dumb stuff everybody has to do to get their prints to stick to the bed. Your prints will 100% stick to pei and pop off when the bed cools back down I've had mine for about 2 years now with 0 issues and I squirt some 91% isopropyl alcohol (can grab two big bottles at Walmart for like 8 bucks) every couple prints and wipe it off to get the oil off the bed from my grubby fingers picking the prints and purge lines off.
Alright that's about all the advice I got...really don't need to do much, the Ender 3 although cheap is a wonderful printer and can handle just about anything with very minium upgrades.
Yea you can just get a printer I'd do a ender 3 and just get a dual gear drive extruder they are cheap here is the extruder for example
I couldn't agree more on the diving head first and drowning! Also, I LOVE that saying. I'm gonna start using it from now on! But yeah, this was a good eye opener to takes things slow and methodically.
For the extruder: um... I don't really know which ones are counterfeit and which are good. The box it came in says it is a Winsinn, here is the exact amazon listing I bought from: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SY745CF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Not sure if it is the same seller. But at least the listing is the same.
One thing I will mention I JUST noticed... I don't know if it would make any difference or not, but on the box it came in says its for the Ender 3 pro and CR10 pro... maybe I have the wrong kind of printer. Obviously the MAX is a different printer, but I would've assumed everything would have been pretty cross compatible. Not sure, that's why I'm still learning!
As for the firmware, I AM indeed using Creality's official firmware. That's interesting, I haven't heard people saying the firmware is no good BUT I also do see a lot of people... not... using their firmware. I might know why now XD
I've haven't looking into compiling my own... mostly cause the little I have looked into is like trying to read hieroglyphics for me, and it confuses the hell out of me. I'm sure I could learn given enough time, but right now I'm swamped a lot of the time with school and work. Maybe I'll give it a stab when I get more free time!
I replaced the cheap Creality extruder with this one from Winsinn: [link]
Very popular replacement for the CR-6's extruder. I used the one with just one bowden fitting, as I created an adapter for the filament sensor that used two of the screws from the original extruder for mounting.
Definitely recalibrate your e-steps after any extruder change.
New CR10s owner just trolling new?
I have a dual-gear extruder and an auto-bed-level (EZ-ABL/OEM clone) that I no longer need. They both are in good condition and (I'm pretty sure) have all the parts, save possibly a ubiquitous 3mm screw here or there. Picture is of the everything I have; links to the parts: [link] and
I'd like to get rid of them together. To sweeten the bargain, I've got two extra hot end thermistors, a used (but working) hot end heater, three silicone hot end socks, and a bunch of new brass nozzles from 0.2-1.0mm. I'm asking $0, DM me. I'll post when it's gone.
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
I used This Extruder and This Motor both work well I have e steps set up at 140 but you will need to fine-tune a bit.
I got this one on my ender 3 pro
This is the one I have, but there are lots of clones and an official one from Creality.
Here you go [link]
Well it’s aluminum but it can happen. Here’s the link for what I bought [link]
WINSINN Dual Gear Extruder [link]
Haven't hade any problems with this one
Get one that grips into filament from both sides. Some firmware settings modifications required though.
Here is a amazon link for you.
I've had my ender 3 V2 for 6 days and the plastic arm on my extruder has cracked and its underextruding after getting to the 2nd or 3rd layer.
I've bought a dual gear metal extruder like this. Although i've bought a cheap one off amazon.
Some people take this opportunity to go direct drive like with the micro swiss, but i've decided to stick with the bowden setup for the time being.
Here is a picture. I have my Ender 3 setup with a dual gear extruder from Winsinn. For the setup, I had to replace the original stepper motor. The original motor came with a gear press-fitted to it, after removing it the shaft was too short to fit the dual gear extruder. I printed a mount for the extruder. The one I chose is by phuzzyday because it does not take height off of the z-axis like other mounts. I use the stock hot end and I've had no problems. Especially for a cheap setup, it has been working well.
yes, have this one now over a year [link]
This one. I love it.
I used this one. Works fine.
dual gear on Amazon
>BMG clone extruder
Thanks a lot. I couldn't find those exact parts, but are these on par with what you mention?
I'm UK based, just as a heads up
I know the first time I tried it with the stock extruder I had retraction turned off. This last one I think I did but not 100%... been a crazy week. On the kit I used (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I could not get that yellow spring to work, and from the comments it looks like that was a common complaint... But it did come with a regular spring which has been working fine with PLA+ and PETG. I tore my whole feed system down and a clog in the nozzle and made some mods to the extruder to where I push the PTFE tube all the way to the gear inlet and then trimmed it to shape. So far so good on all of that. I'm printing out a Satsana shroud right now and when that is finished I'll try it again since I hadn't tried it since those mods.
This is what I have on mine
I've had this one for a couple of months with good results. Even printed TPU with it. [link]
Make sure you print a new guide for your runout sensor so that it aligns with the new inlet. [link] (the pic on the thingiverse page looks janky, but it prints straight/flat and works well)
(edit: or just get a new steel gear; the last one I bought was 4.5 years ago and it didn't wear out - I just upgraded to the better dual-drive for TPU)
What issues did you have with the red one? I just installed mine a few weeks ago and after calibrating the esteps it's been pretty solid.
This is specifically the one I got.
this one for dual geared
this one for official creality single geared open designed
I own both, started with the upgrade creality one and tossed it shortly after a month or so because the single gear actually wore out do to poor quality, decided to step up to the dual geared and it solved so many problems for me and was far more accurate. Just be aware that your e-steps value changes with dual geared, also the cr-10 style dual gear requires a step up block for the filament runout sensor to be printed, you can find it easily on thingiverse, it helps align it with the extruder.
Just get this. Prime you could get it in two days.
I just measured my e-axis motor shaft, and it was around 20mm.
I purchased this extruder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SY745CF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
It does not fit; the set screw falls in just above the top of the shaft.
I was thinking about this as a replacement (hoping for a longer shaft, but it says it measures 20mm as well. https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Stepper-Stepping-Extruder-Compatible/dp/B08LVZKYYV/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=creality+ender+3+extruder+stepper+motor&qid=1617562800&sr=8-4
Any tips are welcome. (^_^)
I didn't have the stock one, I had this one. [link]
If you had a overnight grind the knerling? Could be filled with plastic or worn away.
Picture of cheapo wear and tear
It's this one: https://smile.amazon.com/WINSINN-Extruder-Creality-Upgraded-Aluminum/dp/B07SY745CF
I actually have one in my CR-6 and my FLSUN Delta. I really can't justify spending more on an extruder - Those stainless steel gears get a good grip without marring the plastic too much and if you need more torque there's something wrong with your filament path or hotend.
In order to make use of the filament sensor with this extruder you'll need to print a riser - the filament input is higher up than the stock extruder. The Creality branded aluminum extruder (and its clones) that is not dual gear is the same height and can be used without modification - I have one of those on my old Ender 3 in direct drive mode.
Not counting the many upgrades I printed using the printer itself, [thingiverse is a treasure trove of printable upgrades for Ender 3] I upgraded the bed springs right away (easy, cheap, reduced time spent re-leveling bed) and I ran the stock extruder until it broke which is a very common failure point after a few months. An all metal dual gear extruder like the fancier printers come with is like $17 from Amazon and just bolts right up.
As for filament, I think that depends entirely on how you are using the printer. I only print for personal use so I just mail-order spools 1 or 2 at a time of PLA or PETG when I need them. Obviously if you are running high volumes of stuff through your machine and are trying to get kid excited about it, you are likely to want more color choices and you'll probably run through spools a lot faster than I do. I'm sorry I don't have better advice on this specific topic but it should be a consideration as you don't want to buy the printers and have them sit idle with no budget to run them.
Some other toys I have in my personal maker space are Arduino nanos clones (≈$4 each) and spools of WS2812B individually addressable LEDs. The joke around my house is that adding light shows to things is my signature move. These tiny/cheap microcontrollers can be used for all kinds of other stuff too from sensors and data logging to g-code sending for CNC machines.
I have a vinyl plotter/cutter which is pretty useful.
Sewing/embroidery machine(s) are surprisingly useful for making things too.
Winsinn makes a good one that is very inexpensive.
Dual gears and all metal.
Sells for about 17.00 US.
I use this one it’s great so far and has great reviews. Just make sure you calibrate you’re E-Steps after.
I have both. They are essentially the same printer but the CR10 volume opens up a world of possibilities for big prints. They are both equally fun and frustrating. Most parts are interchangeable between the two, such as extruders, bed springs, etc. One notable difference, the fan voltage is 24v on the E3pro and 12v on the Cr10s. Sound levels and printing speed are nearly identical.
Important updates on my CR10s include a 12"x12" mirror tile (Lowes $2) for a print bed, an EZABL (instead of a BLtouch), and some yellow bed springs.
I added a dual drive extruder and calibrated the e-steps on both. The extruder that comes with them is plastic and will break eventually. amazon.com/WINSINN-Extruder-Creality-Upgraded-Aluminum/dp/B07SY745CF
Side note: The one you have pictured has a single-z drive. Mine has the dual-Z drive - and there is a critical flaw that Creality failed to address. I had to purchase a z-drive sync kit for $15 to keep the dual z-drives at the same height. https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/products/z-sync-kit-1
I think this is what I got
I'm using this: https://www.amazon.com/WINSINN-Extruder-Creality-Upgraded-Aluminum/dp/B07SY745CF/ref=pd_lpo_328_t_1/137-7482465-0907716?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07SY745CF&pd_rd_r=4b00a454-48ad-4d5f-9621-adee504e0f1f&pd_rd_w=M2hII&pd_rd_wg=DWUNM&pf_rd_p=16b28406-aa34-451d-8a2e-b3930ada000c&pf_rd_r=NT5DYPA3F2XB2CCTY1RT&psc=1&refRID=NT5DYPA3F2XB2CCTY1RT
But to be honest the stock extruder might have worked actually just a little better. The issue mostly goes away on lower layer heights. But yeah no matter the print size it happens. I'm debating biting the bullet and getting a bondtech BMG, would prefer to fix the issue on my current setup and spare the money tho
No its the same motor but its a dual gear extruder
It just has two gears that push it along and is made 100% of metal but it doesn't do anything to the motor. And as far as I am aware the motor is still fine, none of these problems happened till after the extruder upgrade.
This is what I’m using. Seems to work fine.
Here's one on Amazon:
Here is a good video from Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors (a great resource) explaining/showing what to do:
You should also lookinginto getting an all metal, dual gear extruder and Capricorn Bowden tube. They are inexpensive and go a long way (along with calibration) of making your print much better (only behind a level bed and strong bed springs in my opinion).
If you don't do anything else, make sure you calibrate the esteps and glow rate following the video.
Here is a link for the extruder on Amazon:
Here is a link for the Capricorn Bowden tube on Amazon:
It you have $2 more, you can get the better bed spring with the Capricorn kit:
Hope this helps.
Winsinn my bad WINSINN Dual Gear Extruder, Works with Creality Ender 3 CR10 CR-10 Pro CR-10S Tornado Upgraded Aluminum Drive Feed for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament [link]
here is a decent one
I honestly would recommend you the dual gear extruder kit over the one that the other person suggested. It's a few bucks more expensive, but there is pretty much no slippage, and the extrusion is super precise.
Here is a link (you can get it cheaper on aliexpress): [link]
Here is a great video about it by CHEP (great channel about 3D printing): [link]
The extruder on the direct drive mount is: https://www.amazon.com/WINSINN-Extruder-Creality-Upgraded-Aluminum/dp/B07SY745CF/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?crid=WRMLHZWZZSIT
Metal, two gear extruder. Here is a link:
This Winsinn one on Amazon. You might not be able to get their supplied spring in there because it is normally a bed spring and it is really long and strong. I worried that it would wind up gripping too tight and not let you use the lever to loosen up the tension to get filament in.
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
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this is a good one, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
make sure to change your E-steps to around 135-148. obviously your mileage may vary, but that's a good starting point. i like slightly under extruding, so i'm dialed in to 140 instead of the 148 that will extrude 100mm when a 100mm command is sent
I have been having good results with 6.0mm at 25mm/s. that's with Capricorn tubing and this dual-drive metal extruder. Stock hot-end and nozzle.
I swapped to a brand new nozzle a few successful prints before the problem started. I don't think the nozzle is clogged. And yes my extruder leaves bite marks in the filament normally. In this case the wheels are actually digging into the filament in a spot until they can spin in place. I've been using this extruder for almost a year now.
Throw that extruder to rubbish, and get your self dual gear Extruder.
You will not regret it
try tightening that spring and if that fails thy one of these. they are cheap enough
Aside from what other have stated regarding bed leveling and setting your z-level, get some Aquanet hairspray. Works wonder and its much cleaner than glue stick (spray every 2-3 prints).
Here are my highly recommended upgrades:
Here are some that made a big difference in my print and others which help with organizing the printer.
1) Better fan shroud:
Print this sucker super fine, like at least 0.16 layer width.
2) A dual geared extruder:
Note, to install this you need a small spacer to push out the filament run-out detector. I may post one on thingiverse but at the time I had pulled apart my printer so I crafted one from wood.
3) Capricorn tubing (mostly for the better compression fittings but the tubing helps a bit too)
Optional 4) Strain relief on the hot end cables:
Optional 5) Strain relief on the bed cables:
This design is common and I have used it myself, no more grinding here. You find it on Ali, Ebay, Amazon and others
Oh, just found what I got on Amazon history. [link]
I’m just now seeing this I apologize. It’s the dual extruder on Amazon. And I didn’t change any settings besides speed. This is the same Gcode I always use for PLA. Extruder
Your best bet is to buy a metal extruder. Here is a geared one on Amazon for $15.
It would likely be better for flexible filaments, so an upgrade. Otherwise you might be able to wrap the threads of your MTC fitting with some teflon tape (plumbers tape), it may give your threads enough body to make up for the stripped threads but I wouldn't really count on it that much.
Yes it is stock.
Would this one work?
Edited to add that yes, the skipping stopped.
They have a dual one that fits the ender with two drive gears i would go with.
edit: something like this one
They are basically the same thing. I would look a little further and get a dual gear extruder like this one that I got.
It helps with TPU.
This is the new extruder unit I purchased
I'm using the Ender 3 pro if that helps at all
Extruders with idle bearing wheel are rubbish !
You better to get extruder with dual gear, you will not regret it .