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If you want to "stain", look into keda dyes. They are cheap and you can mix the color to your liking. I've done a couple of burst finishes with them and it was no problem. Here is a telecaster album with the dye process:
This is the kit I use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_QTVZ4XKB8RJYFMKN1XK6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Mica powder is unlikely to work. It doesn't dissolve and penetrate. Use an aniline dye or other wood dye. Something like this should work.
>Keda wood dye
This one? (looks great BTW).
I've used keda wood dye a lot now and always been happy with the results.
keda wood dye
Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Color Kit - Wood Stain Kit
You can go way past that. Example
Amazon link See the user images for even brighter examples.
Wood Dye - Aniline Dye 5 Color Kit - Wood Stain Kit https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_bA7UFbZRNT115?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Black then purple then red.
Even if something says "Teak" on the label, the likelihood of it being a great match for your existing furniture is about zero. But i suppose it depends on how close you want it to be.
The powdered dyes are incredibly concentrated and one little bottle of it will mix up enough to cover a dozen tables. You'll almost definitely need multiple colors to get a good mix color match though. I think Amazon has Prime shipping for a wood dye color set with a handful of colors you could use to mix anything.
The General Finishes waterborn dye stain is probably easier because it's already liquid in the can. A can would cover your whole project and then some. But again, I'd say you'll need two colors mixed together to get a good match to your original. Probably medium brown + amber or orange, but would have to look at the teak desk.
Toner in a can - probably two cans to be safe. But you'll also need a sealer first and have to use lacquer for the topcoat. You'll also end up probably needing two colors to get the right tone. It's more involved, spraying takes practice, and you need ventilation and a respirator. Here's my post from my first time practicing this process, my comment covers the step by step.
Whatever you choose, do tests on scrap of the exact wood you'll be building with. Results are going to vary across species and even different lots of wood, etc.
That's either dye or one of those new(ish) Minwax colored stains. IIRC the Barnyard Red is close to this tinge, maybe a bit darker.
I've used this red aniline dye you can get off Amazon before and it comes out pinkish rather than red, so I'd avoid that (though their blue is fantastic). Haven't tried other reds other than the Minwax shades. Fruit Punch, China Red, or Spice all look fairly close. I believe Lowe's and HD both have their own unique shade as well (I think Lowe's has the Barnyard red that's exclusive to it, for instance).
Good luck. Let us know what you come up with cause that's kinda a groovy shade on the original.
This stuff, https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Aniline-Color-Powder/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/
Don't have much use for the red, yellow, and blue. I mostly used the brown with a touch of black.
Check out powdered Keda dyes as a comparable alternative for enormously cheaper:
Try some aniline wood dye.
A little goes a long way and you can blend your own colors.
I just redid this thing A https://imgur.com/a/1feUU sanded to 150 grit with bare wood. I'm not sure there was any finish on it to begin with. I used this dye https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Dye-Aniline-Color-Powder/dp/B00BAKWTMQ 1/4 teaspoon in 8oz of denatured alcohol. 2-3 coats of the dye with a piece of t shirt. Black on the dresser and red on the drawers. It dries in like 30 seconds. The dye looks different when it dries, but polyurethane over top brings it back to how it looks when wet. Then I put on a few coats of old crusty oil based polyurethane with a $.50 harbor freight brush. Let the 2nd to last coat dry for 24 hours. Lightly sand and pick out the fibers shed by the brush. Then the final coat.
I haven't used food coloring yet, so can't really comment on that aspect of it, but I ordered some Keda Dye about a year ago because I wanted to experiment with aniline dye without blowing a chunk of change on TransTint. I mix it with DNA (water can be used as well) so I can flash it off with a torch and set the colors quickly. Example on a bowl
Good job (although I don't think you'll need that much maple ;) .) And hey, if you're crafty and feeling like making some guitar tools, you can use some of that maple, epoxy and a single-cut file (medium or fine) to make a fret-leveling file! I always keep some pieces of HD maple laying around, it comes in handy for all sorts of projects (plus it's strong and cheap!)
BTW, here's a link to Keda Dyes on Amazon, although they're available from their own site as well. The packets are small, but it's super concentrated (as are most powdered aniline dyes), so a little bit goes a long way. For $13 shipped, you might be interested in trying them out.
Here's a link to Fiebings Leather Dye, if you're considering giving that a go. Note that it's alcohol-based, so you can thin them out with alcohol if necessary (they're pretty heavy colors, so thinning would probably be a good thing; you can always add extra coats, but you'll have a lot of sanding to do if you put on too much!) Woodcraft and Rockler both carry some dyes as well, and Woodcraft is just a great place to shop anyway.