What is Reddit's opinion of
X-Acto No 1 Precision Knife | Z-Series, Craft Knife, with Safety Cap, #11 Fine Point Blade, Easy-Change Blade System?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
32 reviews of this product found across Reddit:
A hobby knife looks like this. It has a small, replaceable and very sharp blade. It's useful for a lot of things, but you don't need need one when you're just starting out. Especially since the Hobby Set has a cutter and a file, that should be enough.
You should invest in an x-acto knife. They're super cheap and really effective at removing those nubs. Use the blade to cut the nub flush and then drag the edge along to softly scratch the surface to finish it. Some people will suggest sanding, but honestly you should only sand them down if you are going to be applying a matte spray finish or painting.
Just my 2 cents.
I use a pen exacto knife. like such: https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Cap/dp/B005KRSWM6
Use it to gently cut off the seem lines. I haven't done it many times yet because I'm new to the hobby, but i've seen it recommended here countless times.
They sell a special pack to get the chair without the logo, and It's only 15$ extra.
https://usa.clutchchairz.com/product/pewdiepie-edition-throttle-series-brofist-removal-kit/
I feel you, I was in the exact same position as you. Got them for resale and previously my only experience cutting things accurately was from way back in elementary school using safety scissors lol. Here’s a play by play of what my approach was.
- First I bought myself an X-Acto Knife. Specifically this one, its $5.60.
- Once I got the shoes and knife in hand, I sat down in a well lit area. I chose my dining room table since it has a light directly over head as well as being next to windows allowing me to see exactly what I was cutting.
- Take the laces out completely, put them aside or back in the box and push the tongue down so it doesn't get in the way.
- Now you you start cutting. I suggest starting in the area around the toe box shown here where the green is
- Best method to cut I found was find a corner and cutting along both directions of the stitching to create a flap you can pull up so you can put a little tension on the cloth which makes cutting through it a lot easier. Don't worry about getting the cut right up against the stitching yet, you can always come back to it. Now just continue all the way around till the whole section is cut.
- When you cut parts that require to get under another piece a little bit to make a clean cut without excess showing, angle your knife like this to get under the little overhang and make a clean cut.
- Take your time and when you get done with all the sections you can come back and do some detailing by getting the cut lines closer to the stitching, as well as removing any little tiny threads that might still be around.
Get one of theseX-Acto knife and make a custom tip yourself.
For cutting, pretty much anything works. I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=xacto&qid=1600372683&sr=8-5
For a straight edge, any aluminum ruler works.
I use this awl because it's cheap. It's a pretty simple tool but you can get as fancy as you want:
​
The pricking irons were pretty expensive so I found these that were reasonably priced and good:
​
This thread goes well with that pricking iron:
​
The mallet is pretty simple, I use this guy because I already had it:
​
I didn't add optional stuff since I'm not sure exactly what you're doing. I hope this helps.
My 2cents...I pop onto the P80 comments because I like to help out since I'm a bit of a Glock nerd. One thing I noticed about the P80 group is the oversight that you are essentially becoming a novice Glock Armorer in the process. I often see posts about issues from people who don't understand the mechanics of the gun, the importance of the parts, and how they interact with each other. It would behoove you to learn about the components and what they do, rather than only watching MGB (his stuff is great btw), because building the frame to look professionally built is one thing, getting it to run flawless like a Glock is another.
Also most people luck out on their tolerances on their builds and will give you the "just oil it and put 500 rounds through it" response because they don't know how to trouble shoot what is going on. Unless you are using the exact same components, you will have different tolerances interacting with each other and different experiences. A Glock clone is 90% drop in and 10% fitting. If you don't have an understanding of that 10%, you will get frustrated and think you wasted your money.
Case in point, I built a Shadow Systems MR918 and their barrel locks up very tight with their slide. I couldn't rack it back at all yesterday at the range, but since I know that the barrel drops down to go under the slide, I could press on the hood of the barrel and bring it down far enough to clear. I also know right angles that interact will lock up but eventually round over after "500 rounds", so if I needed to pay attention to any specific area it would be the interaction of the slide on the underside of the ejection port, and the barrel on the front of the hood.
In terms of tools, I've built my last P80 with sand paper ranging from 100 grit to 1000grit, a flat surface (I used a cut off of some corian), a 3/8" dowel along with the sand paper (for the recoil channel), an Xacto precision knife, and fret cutters (which can be replaced with low grit sand paper and the Xacto). Dremel is good for polishing and circular sanding, not the greatest for removal of polymer and maintaining a flat surface.
I think so. I also forgot to mention I had an X-Acto Knife that I use as well, which is like an angled razor blade on a stick lol
I would recommend buying just a hobby knife, it's cheap and you can do pretty everything with it. When I started it was the only tool I had. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6?th=1
I hope you guys doing great, but if something happens will you marry me? :)))))
Isn't that a box cutter? I thought x-acto knives were these things.
Semantics aside, that's a lovely render. Great job!
Deal link: Amazon
#2 check to see if you pushed polymer into the location that the rear rails go from drilling the holes, and its creating a ledge. Use an Xacto knife to cut it flush from the inside of the frame.
#1 without seeing it, I'm going to guess the cruciform never drops below the firing pin. The solution is always the same, and some builders refuse to do it. Buy/Build an armorer backplate, watch the cruciform as your pull the trigger. If it never drops out of alignment, that is the reason it never breaks. It should be 60-90% in contact and drop away when you pull the trigger. Unfortunately you can't see that without an armorers back plate. If its not that, then it's not falling off the connector, likely meaning it is getting squished between the inside of the polymer frame and the connector. The fix to that is to re-bend the connector at a shallower angle. However anything is possible if #2 puts the rails in the wrong place.
Also if you haven't already watched this multiple times, watch it now.
> Is a scalpel newbie friendly?
Yes. It's the actual surgery that isn't newbie friendly. https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6
;-)
I had an old one of these laying around I had been meaning to repurpose.
Marquetry is a fun and rewarding hobby. It involves cutting wood veneer with a precision knife to form patterns/pictures with different pieces of veneer.
Examples of marquetry: https://www.etsy.com/listing/517509895/marquetry-wood-craft-kit-trout
https://www.etsy.com/listing/500002014/marquetry-wood-craft-kit-pacific
Items required for marquetry:
precision knife (example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5BHBFbBDYANZC)
cutting mat (example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TYT5WX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DGHBFbZSHK386)
wood glue
something to glue the finished product to (examples: piece of wood or an unfinished wooden box from a craft store)
It isn't too bad. Use a craft style knife, like an xacto knife (https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=xacto+knife&qid=1596124047&sr=8-5 ), and I have a jeweler's loupe I use to check my work (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078N34WZR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
You just go slow and make many small movements...like a tiny sawing motion.
I use an X-Acto knife to get rid of mold lines and those bits that poke out. I’ve also propped them up like that. I’m not a huge fan of assembling warriors.
thanks! theres a few youtube videos out there. mainly i referenced this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6VOc69pkOw
i pretty much just used a seam ripper and xacto knife.
xacto - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KRSWM6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
seam ripper - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001DSIVY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
at first i just used a drill to make lace holes, but i was worried id rip the partial cage when walking so i got a hole punch and eyelets to prevent any ripping.
hole punch and eyelet punch/squeezer thing - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EWPYXG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
metal eyelets - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IXO9T8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
thats pretty much it! draw some lines and have some patience (cut with multiple quick strokes so u dont hit the PK material). and good luck if u do it!
I am using 4mm (nearly 1/4 inch) foamboard purchased from my local Dollar Tree. The foamcore from places like Office Depot is expensive enough that we'd be better served by just buying laser-cut MDF terrain. If I'm looking to experiment, then the "cheap stuff" is more than sufficient, and I honestly can barely tell the difference once the terrain is assembled.
As far as tools go, I am only using a metal straight edge, and a hobby knife. For a while, I was also using a tiny t-square, but I'll be damned if the factory cut edges weren't straighter than what I was getting from the tool. In hind sight, I should have bought on of these.
Getting the lines straight is a beast of a different stripe. That is patience put into practice. Try to draw out as much of the feature as possible so you can take your time with the cuts. Using the metal straight edge as a guide, I drag the knife just over the cut to break the first layer of paper over the foamcore so that the shown edge is as straight and clean as possible. It's super important to use a decently fresh blade. You know you're doing it right when the drawn line looks like it's being erased by the knife; it looks so weird! Once I've made the first cut, I'll line up the second. This cut is for the actual foam of the foamcore. For this cut, the central focus is keeping the blade as straight up-and-down as possible. I do this to ensure that the actual meat of the cut looks as perpendicular as possible to the surface of the material. The third and last cut is for the for the bottom layer of paper. Ultimately it's three cuts per edge, and it's time consuming, but you can't argue with results.
I hope I've answered your questions. If you have any more, please feel free to ask.
A nipper cut vs a hobby knife cut?
Ok, a total noob here trying to mind the ballooning expenses on my first build.
So as I understand it, the proper order of cutting out the pieces off a sprue starts out with a nipper, then a hobby knife, and finishes with optional sanding.
Does that mean that a quality hobby knife cuts/carves cleaner than a nipper, even a God Hand (because of the mechanics involved in nipping?), and would it make sense then to spend more/most on a quality hobby knife?
And if I'm not totally misguided here, how would a decent X-ACTO knife like this fare against a Tamiya branded one?
So I'll give you a link to a list that you may find useful for checking all the boxes on what you may need. I'll post my opinions below on some of the stuff I have found is most important. (I went through this process about 2-3 months ago)
http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/32
I LOVE this hobby knife Very important for removing mold lines, cutting off flash, etc. Very important to get one that starts and stays sharp
Primer is incredibly important. You want to make a suitable surface for your paint to adhere to. I would also look up some articles about how to prime. Contrary to popular belief you don't want the entire model to be the color of your prime when you are done! You want it to look almost speckled and have about 80% coverage.
Paint Here is a decent starter box of citadel paint, with a box and some 1/2 decent brushes. Obviously this is a bit pricey, but you get 45 paints plus some helpful extras
Brush Cleaner VITALLY important. Keeps paint out of the ferrule and helps your brushes stay conditioned and pointed
Brushes I just got a Winsor and Newton Series 7 #00, #1 and #2....WOW the difference between these and synthetic brushes is night and day. Painting tasks that seemed to take forever or require too much of a steady hand are MUCH easier now
Dull Cote Matte Spray Essential for providing a matte finish and protection to be able to actually use your minis. This product is excellent for that
Obviously there are many more items that are important to have that are described in more detail in that link I provided. But the ones above are the ones I would consider most essential
Get this: http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Cap/dp/B005KRSWM6
Very cheap, very durable, very sharp. You're going to gouge a few pieces slightly before you get better with your technique, but that's all part of getting better.
First I'll answer your last question, no, there is nothing wrong with not painting or going all out on a model. Like you said, you have only been at this for a few months and it is always best to start small. If you keep at it, who knows, months down the road you may be making your own custom models. That being said, lets see what I can suggest for getting the best out of your model without putting a ton of time (or money) into it. The first few things I would pick up are:
- A hobby knife for getting off the remaining nub, and cutting decals.
- Sanding sticks to level out the nub.
- A marker for panel lining.
- Flat topcoat, I know you said you didn't want to paint, but this is just a quick step to do at the end to make your model look less like a toy.
The most important part is have fun with it, and do what you like.
Thank you! So, I was looking at exacto knives, and is there any major difference between the X-ACTO Z Series #1 Knife with Cap (XZ3601) and the Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades? Can they both use no. 11 blades?
Popular alternatives to X-Acto No 1 Precision Knife...
WORKPRO 3-Piece Quick Change Folding Pocket Utility Knife Set with Belt Clip
Exceed Designs TIRANT RAZOR V3 (Stonewashed) 6Al-4V Titanium Utility Knife & EDC Pocket Knife, Box Cutter, Razor Blade EDC Tool
