For me, it's because it's like a $5 bag (at most), and 1-2 hours of crafting time isn't worth $5 for me. Other people might enjoy it for the sake of crafting something, but it's just not very economical. Might also be worth it if you had an umbrella with a cute print.
Sources on prices:
A bunch of cheap nylon bags
Teflon, if the bag isn't waterproof enough
Edit: Someone pointed out that this is probably supposed to be a lay-flat makeup bag, which actually are much more expensive.
Assuming we're talking about the screw rods-- clean them with isopropyl pads and lubricate.
For metal on metal use a dry teflon lubricant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCVXUR6/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
DO NOT USE WD-40, i made that mistake. It has too much residue buildup and not for oiling. Use Superlube or anything that is strictly PTFE
All you need is amazon.com/dp/B000F09CEA/
(the URL / dp / amazon part number)
Shortened from this
This is why I hate poly bushings. You gotta grease them like a pig at a county fair.
Get one of those spray cans of White Lithium grease and some Super Lube and just soak everything. You might have to take apart some of the suspension to get at the offending areas.
If there are grease points, get Super Lube in a cartridge and have a dedicated grease gun for it.
Then you probably didn't order g0, FYI.
If it's this: https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=205g0&qid=1622672161&sr=8-1
You ordered the wrong lube.
Buy from keyboard vendors.
For future reference (if you're in the USA at least), use Superlube. It's great at most temperatures and is food grade (don't go actively eating the stuff though).
You can find this lube at most department/home improvement stores. (Amazon is out of stock)
Put a good amount of that everywhere two parts make contact. After a few applications, it works its way down into both plastic and metal, and you don't have to re-apply as often.
I’d suggest you to buy WD-40 Contact cleaner. It should helps you out with the sound and stick drifting if you ever get some.
Not OP but having been built and modded a few boards I can safely say best lube is Krytox 205g0 is ideal for switches. Dielectric grease for stabilizers (stabs). It’s pretty pricey for the amount you get. On budget boards you can get very good results with super lube 51004
since these are not hot swap boards, you will need to desolder switches. So if you want to retain warranty, this will undoubtedly void it, proceed with caution.
I have the same problem with all of my medium sided and up Victorinox tools. The 93mm Alox ones seem the worst. I have asked around, and I think it's just normal. I keep my nails trimmed, so a couple of my new Alox tools are sitting unused.
I used a little synthetic oil on my Super Tinker, and it helped a little. This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I also opened and closed every tool on it many times making sure the lubricant worked its way in. I'm sure just the opening and closing a lot helped too.
I read through the official Nest forum link that u/EJS1127 provided.
Based on that information I would guess you have a problem with one of your HVAC contacts.
About once every 3 years I need to clean the contacts on my water pumps and my HVAC equipment. I use the below product.
I know I was super skeptical as well! But it’s awesome, it prevents the print from sticking to the FEP, but doesn’t impede it. Here’s my process after every 5 or 6 prints, it may seem a bit crazy but since I’ve done it all my prints have been amazing.
Drain any resin out of the vat with a strainer to get any bits and pieces out
Spray cleaner on FEP and vat and clean and dry, inspecting FEP for tears or stick on resin. Address those as needed.
Let dry then put a little bit of this grease on the FEP inside the vat: 3-IN-ONE - 120032 Multi-Purpose... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J25JDDY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Rub with paper towel it will look filmy but that’s ok.
Replace vat and fill, do a print and slow down your pull up speed too.
For prints I use chitubox and add a ton of supports even if it’s overkill and then tadaa!
What is the difference between Krytox 205 g0 found in mech keyboard shops like NovelKeys vs Krytox 205 Pure PFPE/PTFE like found at Amazon?
This Amazon stuff is around 15 grams and only $5 more than 5 mL from NovelKeys (they claim its about 10g but idk how they get that number).
WD40 is as close to useless, BP Blaster and 10x better AeroKroil https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA Been wrenching since 1982 Kroil is amazing
I used super lube 51004
Here is the link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the help!
Electrical contacts need to be clean bare metal to metal for a good connection, so spraying is a bad idea. You’d need to clean the switch pins and probably the sockets as well. I’d try some spray electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush.
WD40 300080 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner 11oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXIJEYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_4Jb4FbGCBX5TZ
Hey guys, I'm from the r/MechanicalKeyboards sub but I also like to cube occasionally.
We use this thing called super lube to make the keyboards sound better, but I'm wondering if I can also use it to lube the cubes. Thanks!
I have an Ergodox EZ with cherry MX browns. I felt the same roughness you’re talking about.
I used Taeha Types’ tutorial https://youtu.be/qSgPKPoFo2k with krytox GPL 205. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLDALQ/ref=ppx_od_tab_ap_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
I used a tiny bit of lube and I’ve been very happy with the result. The keys feel much nicer and have a more satisfying ‘thok’. It took me maybe 6 unhurried and pleasant hours to pull, open, lube, close, and reseat each switch. My switches didn’t need to be unsoldered and resoldered. I expect that would be much more of a PITA.
Hope this helps!
With SLA printers, Sticking is the enemy. I would recommend getting a bit of PTFE lubricant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J25JDDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to squirt on the bottom of the vat before you fill it, that's fixed a lot of my problems.
From the description, that looks like it would be a little thin. This one would be closer to what you're looking for.
But pretty much any food-safe, silicone-safe grease should do the job.
Yeah I don't think either would work well. You need a lube/grease. Mine used to make the same noise and I tried "Remington oil" didn't work. I got this and haven't heard that sound in months. PTFE Grease
I used it on Kailh browns! made it way smoother and quieter. Thou don't just use grease, mix it with oil: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_bBTCzbQT38CGP
Oh have you done that with just grease before? I find it make little scratchy with just grease.
Thou for my Zilents I will be using 3203.
If you want to go off Amazon, this one would be better on the stabs where plastic touches plastic - https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1VYZLCXWQRGPO&dchild=1&keywords=krytox+205g0&qid=1597789844&s=industrial&sprefix=krytox%2Cindustrial%2C228&sr=1-1
Use a brush, and do it sparingly. It will be thick. Normally people use 205 grade 0, the Amazon link above is 205 grade 2. The grade is basically viscosity.
Oh, totally forgot to add that section! You can use the IPA spray to defrost whatever freezes over, but as long as you do things panel by panel it's not a big deal usually. As for doors freezing shut, just grab some silicone grease and run some along the door seals. No more freezing doors!
Here is the link. You'll likely need to buy small needle bottles to better apply it. Those are sold at the dollar store or in packs on Amazon.
>some reviews are saying that its teflon based, and some are saying its silicone based, and some are saying its both.
Super Lube makes both synthetic and silicone greases with PTFE as a boundary agent. Teflon is a trade name for PTFE. So the silicone grease with PTFE is a silicone-based lubricant that contains Teflon; the grease you linked is a synthetic-based lubricant that contains Teflon. Unless you specifically need silicone for chemical compatibility reasons, the synthetic you linked is the way to go.
It's excellent grease, but every application has an ideal grease weight, and GBBs tend to work better with a thinner/lighter grease than the default NLGI Grade 2. So, you can improve it further by cutting it 50/50 with the equivalent oil (this stuff), which thins it out from the consistency of peanut butter (grade 2) to more like the consistency of mayonnaise (grade 0). This reduces surface tension and makes the contact surfaces feel more slick, while still retaining the beneficial properties of grease, and improves performance in some areas where the out-of-the-bottle grease can have a tendency to gum up surfaces (eg your nozzle O-rings).
If you don't want to deal with that hassle, though, using it out of the bottle is fine, just keep to very thin layers. Apply with a finger and buff off; the surfaces should look dry.
Good luck! Yellows are very nice value switches, especially when lubed. By the way, I'd recommend using Krytox 205g0 for the housing and stems and then getting Super Lube Oil to bag lube the springs. It's 1,000x faster than using a brush to apply Krytox on each spring.
Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle,Translucent white https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YT5VZ5VZ7HY7WW3JC1GT
Sorry something got deleted while posting
Most definitely super lube… costs a tenth of kpl and imo works better can be found righhhhhttttt👉 https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=31R3MESWWA44K&keywords=super+lube&qid=1646168533&sprefix=super+lube%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-4
Here you go! Sorry for the late reply
Super lube should help the sound too a bit. It is a little thicker than KPL and I find it last a bit longer too.
But sadly, due to the washers, this is just going to happen over time. You can also try replacing the washers and pivots, but if it's actually the handles, that won't help much.
I know it seems quite sealed, but in fact, there is a narrow gap that you can squeeze some lube into. If you disassemble the trackball and invert the scroll wheel assembly, you can squirt a small amount of lube into the space where the ring meets the cup. I just did so with this spray lube and it dramatically improved the spinning action.
Spray the areas where the springs touch the paddles, as well as where the posts inside the springs connect with Kroil or WD-40 and let it sit for a while. They should loosen up and twist off.
this stuff works well. Uncle Jessy (known experienced Resin printing guru on YT) recommends the stuff.
There is one rule on fixing squeaky beds: to fix a squeaky bed you must first find the squeak. Once you know where the squeak is coming from, then you can fix it. Otherwise it’s only generate advice.
So, the general advice…
Well you have three options:
1. Brace, and try to keep it from moving.
2. Lube it, and keep it from making noise.
3. Replace it, which is hopefully better.
To brace it:
One option is that you would saturate the joints with glue and fuse the frame into one solid piece. You could use an epoxy or off the shelf glue and just flood the joints. I have heard of people using gorilla glue or in weld for a nice permanent bond. You will never get it apart again and will likely need a saw to get it out of the room, but it won’t move anymore or make noise.
To lube it:
If it were me I’d replace it. You need a well built bed frame with metal to metal connections. The common type are called bolt on to hook on style connectors.
This is what they look like:
Goodgoods 2Pcs #711 Bolt-On to Hook-On Bed Frame Conversion Brackets with Hardware Hook Plate,Headboard Hook Set, Hook on Bed Rails, Hook on Bed Frame Brackets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092DTGKVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X7GX5ZT4SGDGAG86MMSQ
This is the one I used.
Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE, 3 oz Tube, Translucent White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1C3Z6TZ3T3K08A1WGKHS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I buy the generic FEP sheets. I used this video:
Changing FEP on Voxelab Proxima
Worked flawlessly. I did print a cap/spacer prior to doing it.
Later I was having intermittent pancaking. I followed the same video above and went with 3 in 1 oil. I rarely have a problem now.
3 in 1 Oil
The new FEP will probably work itself but the oil will help too.
Will this work? WD40300080SpecialistElectricalContactCleaner11ozhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXIJEYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0SYZBGYXYCA4E53GD63K
Lifetime supply. Food safe. Super Lube 41160 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 14.1 oz Canister, Translucent White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083R1FME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_KR2912D5EWP5EX5GT6YW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use this and haven’t had a problem at all. This was recommended by a YouTube guy. I think it was Uncle Jesse.
3-IN-ONE - 120032 Multi-Purpose PTFE Lubricant, 4 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J25JDDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3TR7N80V4CHWZRCYB41H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this and it seems to help with z-axis
Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle,Translucent white https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZYT18QJX6JCK7YPFJFFE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
When I wanna be cheap: Super Lube 41160 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 14.1 oz Canister, Translucent White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0083R1FME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_Z0K1XZEPAWBMBHD0ZRWX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
When I want the best: NyoGel 760G Dielectric Synthetic Grease 50g (1.76oz) Tube https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FD145CP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_AH1RJ6ZHGQJBZFE8H0YE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Water based lubes causing rust is absolutely true.
However, you don't need to buy lube that is specifically for knives. Something like Super Lube Synthetic Oil is much cheaper and is what I've used for a lot of things for many years.
Yeah, can you link/send your cure settings? If you're using Chitubox, just take a screenshot of your settings.
It's also a bit of a long shot, but if the issue is straight-up adhesion problems, you should try this stuff.
I picked it up after I was having adhesion issues myself, and man this stuff really works. You just drop a small amount on your clean FEP, then use a paper towel to smear it everywhere. Keep going until your FEP looks clean.
It's basically non-stick spray. Works great.
But, yeah, first send over those settings
Had it for months and the notchy / bumpy feeling never got better, only worse.
This is what I used on the bearings, it's a liquid : https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=sr_1_4
This for the plastic case, it's a thick sticky grease: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-41160-Synthetic-Translucent/dp/B0083R1FME/ref=sr_1_6
> you don't take the bearing shields off at all?
Even when new the bearings have side to side play, so I figured there would be a little bit of play between those side shields and a week would be enough to get in.
Anything that moves or turns! Just don't touch your clocks unless you want to speed up time.
Also, no graphite, it gums up and leaves residue -- use dry-film Teflon.
Could anyone tell me if this lube would be safe in a cube and if so what your best guess as to how it would make the cube feel. I know there are cube specific lubes but I already have this on hand for my balisongs.
This one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_bBTCzbQT38CGP
But it's worth it only if you need to lube A LOT of switches. Krytox will cost approximately the same, and 5ml is enough to lube over 300 springs.
I had this exact issue, just as you describe it and bought a can of electric contact cleaner for few bucks. The thumbstick worked perfectly again.
I used this can, but I saw some cheaper ones for more like $6 too:
It sounds like you don't need to season it after all since it is enameled, but if you do and up wanting to remove the handle, you might try squirting some Kroil or WD-40 into the crack around the metal handle tip to see if that loosens it.
For the FEP: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J25JDDY/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=AN18IKOLH4FTL&psc=1
For the black resin: Did you set the parameters recommended on the label to the printer?
Did you do a test / calibration print? How did it turn out?
Here's the superlube
You'll get plenty. I also recommend these precision point applicator bottles. You also get plenty of those. But it makes it easier to apply the lube and also if you've got any friends who flip, you can give them bottles, etc.
> surprised no one has tried this before
Plenty of people use alternate lubes but you don't hear about it much because any mention of a lube other than Krytox 240g (or whatever it is) gets downvoted to oblivion.
Personally I use this:
You can indeed just put a couple of drops on a pushed down stem if you don't want to unsolder your board. That works in a pinch and I have lubed one keyboard like that (it was on tactile switch and it didn't remove the tactile feel for me). However, I would still recommend applying it with a brush.
Internationally, I'm not sure what your options are. I like Super Lube Synthetic Oil which you can get from Amazon and that's where I'm assuming you got your Nabalis from. It's cheap and I've used it for years.
You don't have to buy something specifically marketed for knives. I would just make sure whatever you choose doesn't have any solvents or detergents in it to be safe. So anything that is marketed as something to remove rust you probably don't want to use, as counterintuitive as that may seem.
I've never used KPL so I'm not sure how this compares but I like to use Super Lube Synthetic Oil. It's pretty cheap and harmless for a lot of things and I like the viscosity for all temperatures. Not runny in summer and not gummy in winter.
PTFE is also known as Teflon. I know it's used in non-stick applications. Outside of that I don't know much.
Amazon link to what I use. saw a guy doing it on YouTube.
Make sure to also use a high quality grease. I believe silicone with ptfe is recommended. I apply it with a small paint brush or acid brush with short. Stiff bristles (wipe the brush between applications).
Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE, 3 oz Tube, Translucent White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_WHHVDM8X8AD6RYBS9FXA
Or for an oil:
Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle,Translucent white https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ZMR71KGMW63S2K1GZDZP
After you clean the FEP do you use a lubricant on it? I had that issue after using a FEP lubricant it stopped.
3-IN-ONE - 120032 Multi-Purpose PTFE Lubricant, 4 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J25JDDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GDY3289CK20H234237EW
I had lines like this on my ender 5 (always in similar but not the exact same areas). I got some Grease, cleaned the screw and then regreased it. I haven't seen it since.
3M Teflon spray is much better: https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Non-Stick-Dry-Film-Lubricant-Aerosol/dp/B003UTX0R8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3GRFYB130HCUY&keywords=teflon+spray&qid=1641442214&sprefix=Teflon+s%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-3
u/nbaffaro - this on the lead screws fixed my stutter/stall problems
DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant Aerosol Spray, 10 Oz.
hopefully your problem is just as easy. i can now jog the machine as fast as itll go with no problems
I know there's mixed opinions the Elegoo Mars sub about PTFE lube. But I'm a huge fan of it. Ever since I started using it I have had significantly less problems.
With a clean vat you put a nickel sized drop in and wipe it around the FEP with a microfiber towel in small swirls. Give it a minute to dry then use a dry portion of the towel and buff it out until you can't tell it was ever in there.
I do that every time I clean my vat which isn't often.
I tried WD40 300080 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner (Amazon US Link) and it worked.
It should have been patient - I asked for replacement advice here and ordered replacement (Sangen 909X2) as well. :) Now I feel, I could have delayed that purchase.
Thanks for warning against D5. I checked on that after your comment.
I bought this same kit for fixing a broken muffler/filter on my air compressor. The kit did nothing until I used some sili kroil penetrating fluid. Let it sit overnight and it backed out like a charm.
WD-40 is technically not lube. If you wanted another method of lubing, I would try something like Super Lube. It worked well for me.
Super Lube Synthetic
use this for application
I do want to clarify just to make sure I didn't confuse you. There are two types of lubing people do to switches.
There is the fix for the spring pinging problem which is the small dab of thick dielectric lubricant on the bottom end of the spring (not the end the stem goes it)
Then there is a general purpose lubing that some people swearch changes the sound profile of a switch and just in general makes it smoother. For this type of lubing you want to use a thin lubricant, if you like spending money you can use Krytox 205g0. Otherwise you can just use Super Lube (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK). You can google "keyboard switch lubing" to get details about how and where to apply the lubricant.
The general purpose lubing should not be done on clicky switches or your switches won't click anymore. But it is fine to do the anti-ping lubing on the spring in a clicky.
This is what I use for springs:
Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle,Translucent white https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q19ASY50YQ8BJVPYKCMM
I put about 10 drops into a Ziploc bag with a bunch of springs with some air, shake, massage, then pull out with tweezers to put them back in housings. YouTube should have some good videos on the technique.
> Dry Teflon spray
Hmm. Dry Teflon spray. I've never heard of it, but looking at the product description I found at Amazon it might be a sensible option.
Does it actually lubricate quite well? Thank you for the tip.
That's not a Z axis squeak. Mine used to squeak, but a dry lube is better than white lithium. Like this one.
possibly PTFE lubricant by dupont, wash your hands after touching the stuff, ptfe/teflon is similar to a heavy metal, it won't leave your body once it enters. It's why I won't cook on non stick
Use electronic contact spray on the thumb sticks fixes the drifting but you will need to keep applying it every few weeks https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-SPECIALIST-Aerosol-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B01LXIJEYQ for example wd40 has one
I use superlube,this oneto be exact. It is machine oil, I rarely have to clean it and I work in a dusty musty library lol. Plus, application is easy peazy
I've actually never lubricated my z-rod before, but I saw some a few people recommend this on the subreddit.
I recently got some official controllers with relatively tight analog sticks, so I decided to do some maintenance to keep them nice for as long as possible.
I used this video as a guide, and used this silicone grease (essentially the same as what’s used in the video).
Previously I had used white lithium grease in my n64 analog sticks. While it initially works, it quickly turns into a chalky white powder and does nothing the prevent wear and tear to the stick. I don’t recommend it, and will only be using this plastic safe grease from now on. After applying it correctly, it almost feels like a new stick.
Um....your print speed should not be 100 to start, normally upper range for more detailed models would be 50-55, maybe 60.
Second. Z rod, check if the spacer is correct or if there is a skew in the z rod, second and more important, some super lube grease would help, the thick stuff not spray on, put a nice coating on the z rod and it'll help. It's a mechanical part going along a guide so without lubrication it can cause issues and stick.
Lastly check the wheels opposite the z rod on the x axis, are they so tight you have trouble lowering the bar with two fingers? Probably too tight there then.
Here's a link to the lube I use for the z rod, I've had this same can like 4 years, as long as the top is on you'll never really run out, no need to glob it on the z rod, just apply it evenly throughout, it'll tend to collect otherwise as the x axis moves up and down on z on the coupler that it turns through.
I'm not familiar with that brand but yes, definitely use silicone grease if they recommend it. Silicone greases are probably safer as they tend to not swell (or attack) rubber.
This is what we used when I worked in a bicycle shop
Ok thanks. Would you suggest adding more grease before closing it back up? Was considering this brand unless you have a better suggestion.
I, personally, use molybdenum disulfide infused lithium stearate grease for bearings and other high shear applications. I’ve had a tube of engine assembly grease that I’ll link below that has worked great for me for a variety of these types of applications, even if it isn’t explicitly labeled as such. The other stuff that folks tend to like is Super Lube. It’s a silicone grease with PTFE, so again, a heavy grease with a slippery solid additive that will coat the bare metal. I‘ve not used the Super Lube much, so I can’t personally vouch for it, but lots of other folks swear by it. https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=sr_1_38?keywords=molybdenum+disulfide+grease&qid=1636294857&qsid=141-7196544-8751933&sr=8-38&sres=B085D8KFVC%2CB00MWLD2VY%2CB07B277CZ5%2CB00ICXS2OS%2CB08PTMXCJL%2CB07TNDL1HD%2CB01BSMMJ2A%2CB08Z9X7FM5%2CB004UVISZO%2CB001HWBSJW%2CB000CQ4DK0%2CB0735RLMCC%2CB000CPAEJA%2CB0083BWUYW%2CB0045NK4YK%2CB008RWA7SS%2CB00H7LPKKU%2CB006RYX0QY%2CB08ZYB2W3T%2CB00BO8A6P
Vaseline is a little too thick to use as a switch lubricant, you can however use it on the base of the spring to avoid any pinging from the spring.
As far as everyone here saying it will eat the plastic of the switch it will not. Petroleum jelly is considered safe for most plastics. The only plastic it is a known plasticizer for is Polypropylene. What is interesting about that is that Vaseline comes in a container made of… Polypropylene (recycling symbol 5). So even though it is a known plasticizer for Polypropylene that is the kind of container they sell it in. It probably takes many years to have any effect.
I would like one person claiming it will dissolve other plastics other than Polypropylene to cite a source.
Petroleum jelly readily dissolves in rubbing alcohol if you would like to clean it off your switches to go with something thinner.
Krytox that everyone recommends is ridiculously expensive. Just get some super lube:
I had a similar problem, changed bottom exposure to 40s and started coating the bottom of the vat with PFTE lubricant, haven’t had an issue since.
I started using this lubricant: 3-IN-ONE - 120032 Multi-Purpose PTFE Lubricant, 4 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J25JDDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2E25HA0XEH6YXZC7B0SH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I put a small amount on a paper towel and GENTLY apply to the bottom of the vat, on the FEP. Let it sit for 5-10 mins then wipe any thick droplets that are still there. I also make sure there are no “suction cup” areas in the print, I found that my issue was the print sticking to the FEP and it was pulling off of the build plate.
Don't us regular WD-40. Not good. Have heard the electrical contact cleaner version works good though. I used as different brand and been solid for several months. Starting to get a bit of a drift again so need give it another squirt.
That sounds like the bearings inside the block. Did you clean them at all or are they packed in the same grease from the factory? Sometimes you can get away with a soak in some degreaser for a while and then lubricate with a PFTE-based oil.
I use packing foam; it has more density than the shelf liner or cloth, but is a bitch to cut sometimes. Shelf liner is the easiest, and terry cloth is the most hilarious, as you're stuffing wash cloths into a keyboard. If you want to really go full budget mod, get some "Super Lube" from Amazon and then "Push Lube" stems of your switches. With Blues it won't help a ton with the rattle but is awesome anyway. Lube your stabilizers also.
>Really? I picked just the 60 degree bucking and the shop I was at just put them in without giving a alternative or a better option. He also said it was difficult to replace, it took him a 1,5 hour.
What? An hour and a half? That's absurd. If you have a barrel wrench it's five minutes, tops, to get at the hop-up. I really recommend doing that sort of work yourself; it's not hard and will help you to troubleshoot if the installation isn't perfect.
As for degree- in theory there's an optimal degree for each power level. In practice I find 70D is fine for anything up to 450FPS or so, and the stiffer material behaves more consistently across temperature ranges.
>Do you have a personal favorite?
Yup, I use Super Lube w/ PTFE. It's thick, like the consistency of solidified animal fat, but a very thin smear is all that's needed.
>The seals are okay! Almost blew out a long, lol.
Perfect. Like I said you're probably just experiencing the limitations of propane at lower temperatures. At that temperature, red gas or black gas would be the way to go, or just straight propylene if you can find it locally.
Try the r/3dprinting sub, there should be a few threads there on it. The one I ended up going with was this
Were you able to troubleshoot the problem? You could try moving the axis through your printer display until it gets to that point, and then continue to move it in increments while paying attention to the hot end carriage.
This is what I’m using. Not white, but that isn’t the important part.
Yeah, sorry for the typo. This stuff seems popular and is what I use too, https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-Multi-Purpose-PTFE-Lubricant/dp/B00J25JDDY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ptfe+lubricant&qid=1630119632&sr=8-3
I put a little on a clean dry soft towel and wipe a thin coat into the FEP, let it sit for a minute, and then gently wipe off any excess with another clean dry cloth. Should be good to go at that point. I usually do that after I switch resins and am cleaning out the vat anyways.
I've been using Super Lube for a few years now on all of my printers and it works much better than traditional grease (IMHO) as it can actually get into the bearings.
Once every month or two, I apply a small amount to the rods or rails, move the axis through it's full range of motion several times and then wipe off the excess with a clean, dry cloth and all the bearings are smooth and quiet. Depending on your environment and how much you print, you may want to do this more or less often.
NOTE: I'm no expert, just trying to provide a solution that works for me.
the gamecube style sticks are actually a great solution, they're fairly cheap and work well. if they used after market n64 joysticks replacements, they're horrible. however, purchasing the replacement parts from kitsch-bent and replacing the original parts inside inside joystick yourself yields amazing end results for about $4/controller. I've repaired multiple controllers this way for myself and friends. if you go this route, you'll need to replace the bowl, gears and stick. you'll also need to lubricate the moving parts with silicone grease to ensure they move freely without wearing out the plastic too quickly. I'll add links to what you need below
As stated by others, that is a normal sound. But it does seem awfully loud, as does it's fan. But that may be due to the recording.
I suggest rubbing a little lubricant onto the FEP before adding the resin. You don't need much at all. And it seems to last for a few prints. I'm currently using the 3-IN-ONE - 120032 Multi-Purpose PTFE Lubricant that was suggested by YouTuber: Uncle Jessy.
I've yet to have a print failure since using it. Well, that is failures related to the print sticking to the FEP. That said, the larger the print surface is, the more likely you'll hear that sound. It's scary, I know. But so long you bake times and supports are in order, then you should not have much to worry about.
that one is decent but this is what i was taking about Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle,Translucent white https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_433Z9DX3Z422TW5C26H0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is a good one I linked below - pretty recommended in most yt videos. I had a similar-ish problem after approx 6 months of printing and I took that rod out and rubbed it down (giggity) with Iso alc to clean it off then applied this stuff seemed to smooth it all out:
I know there is this PTFE lubricant that I use and that makes it less likely to stick to the FEP. 3-IN-ONE - 120032 Multi-Purpose PTFE Lubricant, 4 OZ https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00J25JDDY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_42CZARBT0V29FXC1X077
You said that you have other resin so try on that machine. If it does the same thing, then it's the machine. Trying to eliminate the machine being the issue. Having another machine just like it doesn't mean much. Each machine can get their own problems.
I don't know much about the Photon Mono X but is there a fan going underneath or a fan at all? If so, a can of air to blow out the dust or replacing the fan. But this is all guessing. I wish you good luck.
Another update. I used this electronic contact cleaner on my right touch controller's trigger and after letting it dry for a few mins it appears to have done the trick! Went through a couple of missions and also went back to the second mission with all the weapons/ranges and everything was firing as expected. Not sure how long this will last (hopefully a while) but I can actually play now.
Still think its odd though how, like you, I don't have any similar issues in other games that I'm aware of, just Sniper Elite.
Someone suggested an electrical contact cleaner. It actually works and I haven't experienced any drift in any of my controllers in almost a year. I say give it a shot and see if it works.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_EBFHH7HAJ2P00XQQJB1G something like this. Could be used on bearings, shifter cables, etc but if you look at the reviews people have done switches with it. In case link didn't work it is super lube 51004 PTFE oil.
thinking of getting cheap lube alternatives to the usual 205g0. read that this one(super lube 41160) was good as a replacement. is it the same thing as this one(super lube 92003)? does anyone have an opinion on which one is better?