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I bought myself two bass tranducers, a cheap amp, second sound card and some wire for about £45 on Amazon. The transducers I have are [link] - The hardest part is setting up the software imo, getting the thresholds right etc is painstaking.. But now I can feel rumble strips and crashes - it's awesome... Racing without it feels flat... Even with VR
this is the one i got [link]
The amp is working and the PCB says made by alibaba so i guess my is original.
if you only have the audio cable going to the chair thats fine, but i had the usbs for the hotas also.
Also the longer the audio cables to the shakers the worst the signal.
Here is the list for a left/right setup:
2x bass shaker (mine is a rockwood, the cheapest one on amazon/ebay
1x amplifier ([link])
simhub (free software to make it work with games [link] )
I suggest this two videos to understand the process:
Usb soundcard into small amp into cheap transducer like this one.
I run software to mirror audio and run a low pass filter to just let the sub bass through.
I bought 2 of these for £23 each at the time (on offer) :
As an alternative, these seem to get good reviews on Amazon for much less £££'s :
Along with this SMSL 2x50W amp :
These connectors :
And 2m of audio cable (only available inn 1m atm) :
I have the 2 shakers mounted underneath my Ikea chair on the left & right sides.
They are just screwed into the wood base with some rubber washers on there too for dampening.
I've read that it's better with the shakers mounted on some metal brackets / bars to allow them to vibrate more, but I haven't tried this yet.
Currently use a SoundBlaster Z for the main pc sound, and my motherboards' onboard audio to drive the amp/shakers.
Works well as far as I can tell - don't have anything to compare it against - and I never need to have the amp above 50% volume, with the onboard audio at 90% volume in windows.
For software I use SimVibe, but both Simhub & SimShaker Wheels also work well too. I'd say SimhHub is easier to tweak to taste due to not needing to mess around with .wav files in Audacity.
Plus if you want rumble from other games / movies output through the shakers for some added immersion, then use Voicemeter Banana and enable the eq on the secondary output channel assigned to the onboard audio.
Then set the low pass filter @75-90Hz.
There's a big thread on RaceDepartment with plenty of more info on setups much more advanced than mine :
this is the model of the base shaker i use, if you disassemble the most expressivo ones (with pretty cases) this is what is inside.
This amplifier is suitable for 3 or 4 base shakers
Apparently the prices are higher that i pay for but even if it sums up to 100$ or 150$ for 3 base shakers + amp, it still a good investment, is super fun for lots of games and movies.
sure, this are the bass shakers that i got,
[link] and this was the amplifier [link]
this where the chepests parts i could get from amazon on EU, for what i gather there are superior bass shakers like this one [link]
but i didn't want to overpay for something i dindt know if i was gona use/enjoy.
Couple of tips, that amplifier works very well, since its not for music even if if you get some distortion but its underpower for the supposed max wattage from the shakers (its 2x40W + 68W) and the shakers are 100W. At this point i normaly dont push the amp to the maximum since the chairs starts to make noices and shakes all the time, so i belive i dont need a more powerfull one.
Also get some proper audio cables, and a power suply, i cant find a laptop style unit that gives 12V +7A so i went for a normal ATX power supply.
At this point i just need a extra bass shaker to put on the rudder pedals, since its kind of a immersion breaker that my feet are "grounded" from the vibration.
I bought one of these and and amp like this. I might upgrade the amp, but it's like a poor man's buttkicker and boy does it work.