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BULVACK 10 Pack LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply DIP Output 1.25V-30V 3A?
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> Gotta believe that the internal electronics and LCD are not running at ~50 volts.
Yeah, I don't know if the displays are fed the full 50v or if there's a stepdown in the controller. But you're right, the display is probably running off something much lower.
> Do some buck converters have auto-power-down if no load is present at power up? They obviously need to provide some power to those pins just to detect that a USB load is present.
After the capacitors are charged in a buck circuit, it stops drawing current. There's slight leakage which is the quiescent current, that is usually a few milliamps which is the equivalent of a few small LEDs.
For example this buck on Amazon has a 7.8ma quiescent current, and if you remove it's status LED it drops to 6ma. So it's quiescent current is the equivalent of 3 small surface mount LEDs. If you hooked this buck up to the RadRunner's 672Ah battery, it would last 9 years, 304 days, 17 hours, and 50 minutes.
Yeah, power is coming off the ender. It sends 24V out, so I used 2 buck converters to get 12V (for the LED strip) and 5V (for the Arduino). Link (I didnt get these from here but they look the same): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VVXF7YX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_31DG3YR7VG2QS6RSZX39
Other parts: IRF540 MOSFETs (people say it's better to go with an IRL (logic level) MOSFET, which is probably true, but these work just fine for me) 10K resistors IR receiver and remote - from Elegoo Custom PCB was designed with Eagle and printed at the electrical engineering shop at BYU
>can't handle more than a 50wMAX load. (It's only a 50w panel
You don't need a DC-DC converter to match your panel, you need one to match your load.
>12v load is 0.2w and 1.8w ..... The 5v load charges 3 5wMAX
That means you need 2W at 12v and 15W at 5v total
Buy the 10-pack and put one on each device:
Zixtec 10 Pack LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply DIP Output 1.25V-30V 3A (ZT001)
Not bad if you're in a serious "I need it now" pinch, otherwise Amazon has 10 pack buck converters for like $12USD
Zixtec 10 Pack LM2596 DC to DC Buck Converter Voltage Regulator, 3.0-40V to 1.5-35V, Power Supply Step Down Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VVXF7YX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DNhZDb7APEFV4
I'd recommend using something smaller for getting the right voltage. It's the kind of thing you can set the output voltage for and forget, so there's not really any reason to spend extra to get one with a built in display that you are going to use once, then never need to look at again.
That is, if you have a soldering iron and volt meter. If you don't though, and are planning on using a few, buying a cheap soldering iron and volt meter with these could still cost less overall.
LM2596 DC-DC is my #1 go-to in buck. They are marked HW-411, buy 10 at a time, $2 each everyday. here: Zixtec 10 Pack LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply DIP Output 1.25V-30V 3A (ZT001): Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement , about 84% efficient at 660mA continuous when input is 13.8~14.0 Volts (Truck application). about 3-5% of all China modules that I buy, fail within a year. overall, China modules cost 1/7th of OEM and there is a beneficial commercial profit (for me) even with failure rates.
yes, I did find a DollarTree 2USB adapter. it does have a switchmode ADI 14014S 8pin in it. $1.42 Cdn for the adapter, and the tiny label indicates 1A with 12 to 24V input. run at 28.4V DC with resistive load at 490mA and at minimum 4.85V. created tear apart photo here: https://imgur.com/a/rtINh7b
HW-411 efficiency with 5V(precise set) @ 480mA (bulb load) :
70% , [12V@285mA in, 165KHz switching, only 10mV on Oscope], cost =$2+ 4weeks shippingwaiting
AD14014S cheapo 1$tore Auto to USB with 5V (actually 4.88 under load) same load :
62% [12V@390mA in, 310KHz switching noise 75-80mV present on scope] $2 but can be purchased now, anywhere in our town
Buck Converter my friend, here are some cheap and effective ones: https://www.amazon.com/Zixtec-LM2596-Converter-Module-1-25V-30V/dp/B07VVXF7YX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=6PGK84S1X0Q4&keywords=buck%2Bconverter&qid=1670461116&sprefix=buck%2Bconverter%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-3&th=1
Here is a basic one, it's a buck converter so is a step-down SMPS
That's what you find with buck converter on Amazon product search. Of course you can search for the other topologies - boost and buck/boost, for converters that can go up, and down/up, respectively.
Not that Amazon is the ideal place to buy these things but it's easy and the stuff seems OK if you derate it by like 80%.
> The heat dissipators supposedly hold to 1.5A, but when we plug a phone or tablet, at 0.5A it overheats
It's true the 7805 regulator has a maximum current rating. And, you are not exceeding that. But, you also have to worry about the power being lots in the regulator.
Since you're in an automobile, I assume the input voltage is 12v. The regulator is dropping 12v or more down to 5 volts. Power is voltage times current, so the 7 volts being lost in the regulator times 0.5 Amps is 3.5W.
Those little heat sinks are not sufficient to dissipate 3.5W without overheating.
Linear regulators like the LM7805 are inexpensive, but they are not good for large voltage drops at even a moderate current like 0.5A.
I suggest using a 'buck converter'. They are very inexpensive:
10 for $15: https://smile.amazon.com/Zixtec-LM2596-Converter-Module-1-25V-30V/dp/B07VVXF7YX/
packaged in a module with dual USB out: https://smile.amazon.com/outstanding-Converter-Module-Regulator-Double/dp/B07T2YFG9M/
I am all for the "Because I Can / want to learn reasons" but why are you building a new PSU with linear regulators which will be very inefficient and generate a lot of heat when you can easily get these modules today?
You can even find these which will take AC right off a transformer
One method is to use 3 regulators and 3 relays, connect the designed regulator to the LEDs.
Another method is to use 3 regulators
LM2576 3.0 A, 15 V, Step−Down Switching Regulator
https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/lm2576-d.pdf
or LM2596
https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/lm2596-d.pdf
Use a switching regulator design, 3 adjustable regulators, each with a different output voltage.
(the '96 has a higher input voltage requirement)
Combine the outputs of the 3 regulators into one power line.
Each has an "ON/OFF" pin that should have a 47k resistor from the pin to input voltage.
A SP3T (single pole 3 throw) switch wound have the common connected to GND.
Whichever "ON/OFF" pin is held low by the switch, will supply its output voltage.
If you want to use a microcontroller, I suggest connected GPIO to "ON/OFF" pins.
I also suggest you connect the 47k resistors to the microcontroller supply, not 'Regulator VIN"
Here is a batch of boards that are adjustable, you might have to add the resistor and
https://www.amazon.com/Zixtec-LM2596-Converter-Module-1-25V-30V/dp/B07VVXF7YX
If you want to build the circuit yourself, the datasheet has calculations for resistor values.
Zixtec 10 Pack LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply DIP Output 1.25V-30V 3A (ZT001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VVXF7YX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glc_fabc_PTGQ0D6ZAFPKFJ4HCR10
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zixtec 10 Pack LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step D… | $15.98 | $15.98 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zixtec 10 Pack LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step D… | $15.98 | $15.98 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
> how do i get 6V to the servos safely?
Try a 4xAA alkaline battery pack (6V). Or a 2S LiIon battery pack (7.4V) plus a buck converter to make 6V.
I have a collection of buck/ boosts, here'swhere I got mine: Zixtec 10 Pack LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply DIP Output 1.25V-30V 3A (ZT001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VVXF7YX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_41ER5Y5J3HBEGVEA0Y5Z
Not so many ) I know 2 options,
One is I the most popular choise, LM2596 based:
https://www.amazon.com/Zixtec-LM2596-Converter-Module-1-25V-30V/dp/B07VVXF7YX/
I have something very similar in my Aquila
Another option could be these, but I'm litte worried that upper limit is 24v, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D9DNQS3/
Fans don't need high current, so I doubt converter heat will be an issue.
But all of them are cheap chinese boards. Maybe someone can recommend something of higher tier. Bear in mind, aquilla mainboard is also a very cheap chinese board )
One last question do you feel like these parts are adequate? Converter (https://www.amazon.com/Zixtec-LM2596-Converter-Module-1-25V-30V/dp/B07VVXF7YX) Case (https://www.amazon.com/Aokin-Battery-Storage-Parallel-Batteries/dp/B07Q13T3RH) Charger (https://www.amazon.com/18650-Charger-Batteries-Intelligent-Rechargeable/dp/B07Y7WHZRX) Batteries 6 of these, 2 for remote 4 for robot ( https://www.18650batterystore.com/products/samsung-25r-18650)
The Pine64 provided power splitter is a simple buck converter. It has 12v coming from the board and converts some of that down to 5v. You can find buck converters like this or this at Microcenter, Amazon, DigiKey, or nearly any electronics hobbyist or professional retailer. You would need to do some soldering but it is pretty simple. What I like about the LM2596x based converters is they can handle 36 watts of power and the ones linked above are adjustable. You would likely have to do some soldering but could easily splice into the Pine64 SATA power adapeter. I modified 2 to get x 4 SATA drives, and used a larger power supply than the Pine64 power supply since the 4 pin header on the RockPro64 is straight through to the barrel plug.
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Your other route is to use a separate SATA power supply for your drives. I've built several NAS hosting between 2 to 5 drives, obviously using a different PCIe to SATA adapter, and a separate power supply for the SATA power. You can stalk my posts and see one of my first NAS.
You can buy the usb micro (and the old mini) chargers for real cheap in bulk. They are about the size of a postage stamp. I installed one in one of my Retevis 777 (Baofeng 888) battery cases, but those are 3.7V batteries and easy to buck down from 5volts. You can get buck boosters real cheap too, BUT then the question becomes, how do you get it to stop charging when it gets to the right voltage (in the battery.) Here are the buck boosters I just bought on Amazon for $1.40 a piece plus tax. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VVXF7YX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Open up the bottom plastic bit of the power supply case. There are empty 24V rails there you can easily pull power from. Wire in a buck converter dialed back to 12V between the 24V rail and the LEDs.
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