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Zona polishing paper is what I use. I trim the sprue down and start with 1500-2000 grit sand paper to get it flush, then start with the zona papers and get a pretty glassy finish without even using polish.
The last paper is the equivalent of 14,000 grit sand paper or something absurd like that.
*according to the website the 1-micron paper is equivalent to 14,000 grit, not 20,000
[link] would be an easier way for most as its the least invasive. You can polish a wedding band or a tempered glass watch face back to day one new using these, some water and time.
I bought pretty much the exact same kit, mostly for making dice. I think it’ll get the job done, but when I want a crystal clear sanding, I use Zona papers and wet sand with them, they’ve worked great for me so far.
I hope that your projects turn out great!
Zona 37-948 3M Wet/Dry Polishing Paper, 8-1/2-Inch X 11-Inch, Assortment Pack One Each 1, 2, 3, 9, 15, and 30 Micron [link]
You'll need to sand and polish every side of your dice anyways to get rid of the layer marks. Use these and make supports.
Also, I'm sure you know but just in case, make sure your dice are super well cured before you cast them to make sure your silicone cures properly.
If you do things by hand, I highly recommend the Zona polishing paper set that goes up to 10000 grit. I do about 30-40 circular strokes on each sheet, and with some good pressure, it can take a piece from completely matte to glassy and clear, but you do have to be thorough.
If you use a rotary tool, I recommend Fabulustre on a muslin buffing wheel after sanding to at least 3000-5000 grit. Much faster than the Zona papers, but slightly less reliable results.
Not internal / inside; just along the “edge” at the bottom, where the two tines were split. This is the polishing cloth / paper that I’ve found works best. For what you’re doing, only a minute or two on the finest paper in this pack (1 micron) would do it.
These are the cloths I had: Zona 37-948 3M Wet/Dry Polishing Paper, 8-1/2-Inch X 11-Inch, Assortment Pack One Each 1, 2, 3, 9, 15, and 30 Micron [link]
I used them to polish a serving board that had an epoxy area about 3 inches x 15 inches x 2 sides. I sanded to about 600 grit before switching to the polishing pads. I used a piece of each cloth that was about 2x2 inches, and it took maybe 30-45 minutes to work through the cloths.
This is what I use it takes a bit of time though and you need to use each one slowly moving to smaller micron counts to avoid imperfections. It works best if you use regular sandpaper first
I’ve been using Zona papers for dice that I’ve been making, they go down to a super fine grit. An assortment set from Amazon is pretty inexpensive, too:
Zona 37-948 3M Wet/Dry Polishing Paper, 8-1/2-Inch X 11-Inch, Assortment Pack One Each 1, 2, 3, 9, 15, and 30 Micron
I understand that feeling..
Do you use sharp edge molds?
Have you ever considered using micron/microfiber pads and a resin polish? Sorry for the ugly link it won’t let me hyperlink
Zona 37-948 3M Wet/Dry Polishing Paper, 8-1/2-Inch X 11-Inch, Assortment Pack One Each 1, 2, 3, 9, 15, and 30 Micron [link]
I bought a product on amazon called " Zona 37-948 3M Wet/Dry Polishing Paper" and gently did small figure 8s on each of the paper from coarse to fine. Make sure your nibs are aligned first though.
Bad idea. Get a glass file or two and some polishing cloth or high grit sandpaper, up to a couple thousand grit. This will get up to around 10k grit. I got something similar a few years ago and have used maybe a quarter of the surface of the cloth so far.
The cheapest whetstone isn't a stone at all - it's a sheet of lapping film. Put it on a perfectly flat surface (eg, a piece of plate glass or polished stone tile from the local home improvement store) and go to town.
Little trick I picked up from my local turners club, these polishing papers are basically the same thing as the micro mesh pads... and considerably cheaper. You get full 8 1/2 x 11 inch sheets of each one. I just cut them into strips and soak in water, use them the same way I would the micro mesh pads. Takes me awhile to go through a whole package.
I always wear a long-sleeved shirt whenever I'm also wearing a watch with a bracelet about which I want to minimize scratches. I'm constantly worrying about scratches, and keep the bracelet covered unless I know it's safe.
For the non-OCD people (and myself before I developed the aforementioned particular OCD behavior), you can use a product like this to carefully restore the satin finish on the bracelet. For your watch, I'd remove the bracelet and carefully affix it to a flat surface, attach the 9 micron polishing cloth to something that is also soft (used mouse pads seem to work well), and then carefully pull the cloth along the bracelet's clasp in the "direction" of the bracelet, making sure to keep the motion all in the same direction. This will work well for your watch, since it doesn't mix a high-polish and satin finish on the bracelet. If the 9 micron is not removing the scratches with a few (10ish) strokes, then switch to the 15. Be careful, though, since you are removing metal!
Figured I'd also mention if you're all about the fine sanding you should give these a try. They can supposedly polish watch crystal. - [link]
Have any of you tried the 3M buffing paper? I just ordered a package and have heard fables of gold falling from the sky when you use this product.
Edit: 3M Polish Paper is the name. And from reading up it, it looks promising...at the very least for stem work.
These are amazing, but essentially the same thing as micromesh. I usually start on the 9 micron and work my way down to the 1 micron. If you are opposed to any abrasive "removal" smoothing, I have also had some luck with glass... I use an old Galaxy S3's screen, but I've also heard of people just using a window pane.
We can't see any scratches in that photo so we don't know how deep the scratches are. I would try 3M polishing papers, but I'd test them first on a similar piece of plastic. The 1 micron (finest) is equivalent to 8000 grit. I would start with the 1 micron and if that is too fine work your way up to 2, 3, 9, etc. until the scratches are removed. If it leaves sanding lines, work your way back down to 1 micron.
Contact the technical department (or customer service) of the manufacturer of the specific paint you used and ask them for the best method. They test paints for these things and they will offer you their 'best' method, the best solvent to use.
With that said, if it is a matte finish and you can find a non-visible area to test it on (underneath maybe), you might be able to repair it with very fine wet/dry sandpaper (1500 grit) or even finer wet/dry polishing papers, which are graduated up to 8000 grit (one micron). Use both very wet.
Edit: if possible, test every repair method on a non-visible area first.
I checked our discord and theres only the western suppliers. I hope one exists for you and they dont price gauge.
If you dont find any, compare the shipping with these:
USA sourced Amazon
Canadian sourced Amazon
Don't use micro-mesh if you care about maintaining your edges. Get a set of Zona papers (Here's a link as an example) and work your way through the different "grits".
Using this method you can get your dice looking like the one on the right in this picture
This set of Zona paper
Grab some polishing paper. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BHGC7G/ but 3M make a better version but it's a lot more expensive. I find the 30, 15 and 9 micron papers perfect for getting out surface scratches on mirror finishes and stainless steel.
I managed to source some Zona paper via Amazon US from the Dice materials post. I actually bundled it with two books which saved me about 50% on individual shipping.
Most people just use Zona sheets
The order on the photo in this Amazon listing is the right one green is most coarse white is the finest
Not sure how it compares to any process appropriate to smartphone glass, but I have a low-end plastic face Timex watch that gets marred pretty constantly. I also have a coworker who spends a lot of his idle time sharpening knives, sometimes over and over. We started with aluminum car wheel polish, which is a fairly fine polish, and then went to a set of polishing papers that change progressively from 30 micron down to 1 micron.
After about 10-20 minutes of work at this, my watch looked pretty good, and having started with a longer run with the aluminum polish or maybe even something one step more aggressive, I think it would have looked like new. I say 'would have' cause said bargain watch already has a pretty scuffed face again, So I will be repeating this process.
As I hinted, this may not be appropriate for a smartphone, but I'm betting if it is a plausible solution that products in this style could be a starting point or even a complete fix. I'm saying so without even having read what other people on the web have to say on the subject.
edit: Some persons are using power tools, I personally would do it all by hand unless I had practice working on very similar projects with those tools. I also like the idea of using materials available at hand without making lots of Amazon orders or auto parts store / hardware store trips. Predictably, it looks like two of the big concerns are keeping polish and debris out of the speaker grille(s) and not marring the bezel. I plan to try this on my 3GS.
Working on a kit from the Fret Wire, and am overjoyed with how it turned out. I used Keda black dye powder (1/4 teaspoon dissolved in about 1.5-2 oz. of water, then added to another 2ish oz. of 91% isopropyl alcohol... I couldn't get the powder to dissolve in just the alcohol).
There were a few glue spots from the factory, most of which were along the edges near the binding. I sanded most of them out, but was weary of sanding through the veneer... which, unfortunately, I did at the bottom-center of the guitar. I was able to dye over it so it's less noticable, but it's a lesson learned!
The two stripes visible on the left were also glue spots, but I liked how they looked so much that I decided to just leave them as-is. Shows off a cool spalty stripe, and almost looks intentional. They appeared to be surface level so I could have sanded them out, but I just liked it and went with it.
The headstock [[link] I carved out by hand)) was almost left bare, but I decided to use the same dye after liking it so much on the body. It's hard to tell in the picture, but the headstock has the same burst finish as the body does.
I achieved the burst using polishing paper I got from Amazon ([link]). I initially started with 400 grit sandpaper, but found it marred the surface too much with this aniline dye, and switched to the 400 and 600 grit polishing paper instead. It's slow going, but there's no visible scratch pattern and it gives you AMAZING control to get the burst as smooth as you like. Also, I would HIGHLY recommend them for polishing frets. I used a 1.5ish inch rectangle of each grit left over from polishing frets, and it was MORE than enough to do the burst on both the headstock and the body.
I actually only used polishing paper! Amazon Link
These are actually not polished. I only sanded down one face but the rest is how it looks straight out of the mold. I wait until after I paint them before I polish usually.
The master i use is crystal clear so the molds usually are the same which really helps.
Micromesh sanding paper I use to get a glass shine is Zona Paper:
My polish of choice is Flitz:
I just got my masters from Revel Broker yesterday. I love them so far. I've polished only one, but it was one of the ones that they had not sanded down first. It was one of the two sample dice they sent with my order. Revel sands to a 600 grit, then all you have to do is polish.
I know, you said you don't want to polish. BUT!!
I used this paper. Do not get the knock offs, they really don't work at all. I got a knock off set first because it had more grit options, and the first thing I used on them shredded the paper.
I also used this mini pottery wheel. It's seriously a game changer. I dreaded polishing, but this helped so so so much! I've seen some people use a full sized one, but that's a little out of my price range.
Here's the post I made about it on IG earlier today.
Here's a YouTube video I made about the pottery wheel. I did end up taping a couple of mini skewers at each corner of the wheel's base and then wrapped a paper towel around the whole thing so it would stop spraying water and dust everywhere. Worked surprisingly well.
Good luck! Even if you do get fully polished dice from a maker (and as someone else said, that gets pricy really fast), you'll still need to sand and polish the sides where the molds lines are. So I recommend that setup anyway.
Zona papers are the go-to for folks who make resin dice sets. [link]
These are the pads that I use: Zona 37-948 3M Wet/Dry Polishing Paper, 8-1/2-Inch X 11-Inch, Assortment Pack One Each 1, 2, 3, 9, 15, and 30 Micron [link]
Polishing Paper (Link on Amazon here: [link]).
There is an excellent reddit post on how a guy did the same thing and if I find it I will link it :)
Edit: Found it.
He has an imgur link with step by step instructions on how he did it. I have done the same by covering the glass with blue painters tape and used the polishing cloth from the finer to finest grit.
Came out real nice.
I have done the same with Polishing Paper (Link on Amazon here: [link]).
Lapping film is a thing. I have used it succesfuly Here's a video about how to use it.
I own 2 SRs and only use them occasionally. I like my DEs.
I have found an inexpensive solution for honing them however. I use lapping film.
Some useful links:
The vendor mentioned above doesn't sell ,5 or ,3 (12 and 16K) micron film, but others do, which would be the full progression necessary for honing.
Something I've heard of, but not tried myself as of yet, is the Plexitone finish. You melt chunks of Plexiglas into Acetone and then apply in much the same way you would a CA finish... then the acetone evaporates off. You still have to run through all your sanding/wet sanding though so I don't know that it would really save you much time.
You could cut out some time by not using so many coats of CA, and not starting sanding from such a low grit. I CA finish most of my stuff.... I do 3 coats of thin to seal the wood, then 5 coats of medium to build the film to my liking.... then I wet sand starting at roughly 600 and going up to 14k (I use 3M Polishing Papers rather than micro mesh, so the conversions to grit are a little different since they're measured in microns instead.
Finish off with the Beall Buffing system and they're crystal clear and look like glass.
I love 3M lapping film for pen nibs and honing knives/razors.
If you only have one SR there is no need to buy any stones. You can hone your own razor using lapping film on a thick piece of glass or a granite or marble tile. I had no experience with razor honing and it worked like a charm.
This video shows how:
If you're a DIY guy, you can hone a straight yourself with lapping film.
Here a tutorial video on the subject.