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There are devices rated for 15A that can run A/Cs and whatnot. All it needs is a 15A or 20A relay inside of it, its not anything exotic.
Here's one I found on Amazon in a simple search. I'm sure there are others, but this one looks pretty good to me.
Interesting. I was reluctant to use that one as I'd heard of them shutting down under the load. Washer is about 8 yrs old, so not a old behemoth i guess.
I think I'm gonna try! Was going to buy this and was putting it off...
I use this zwave plug on my washer and dryer. They work perfectly!
A small script in home assistant will fix your worries. Simply if it's ever turned off turn it back on. The power button is small and not exactly easy to bump.
I have a Z-wave hub so I use one of these: zooz Zwave plug
Works very well, can handle 15 amps and can even track and report electricity usage if your hub can read the extra channels.
I'm using aqara sensors and a zigbee/zwave usb hub. They are inexpensive sensors that are great. I use the door sensor in combination with a Zooz Z-Wave Power Switch to build automations that change a custom sensor telling me if the dishwasher is running, drying, clean, or dirty. I need to set up some push notifications for when it's clean. I'll have those go to my wife . . . .
Do you have any powerline ethernet adapters in your home networking setup? I had a pair of these and they'd trip the AFCI breakers all the time.
As far as home automation, maybe something like this power monitoring switch can be used with your Fibaro to notify you when energy use drops below a certain threshold?
Something like this would work [link]
But not sure if you need a WiFi one or if you have a hub. If no hub, just search for a WiFi heavy duty continuous power plug. It’s always best to use the plug in the wall and then run the extension.
sorry they have 2 kinds energy (for the whole home) and power, I meant to say power and they are less than $35 at amazon:
Personally I would not bother installing something that will get outdated so quick, in such a permeant location. You really don't want to be swapping receptacles every 4-5 years. It also pretty much limits that receptacle, forever
I just swapped out some old receptacles that were original to my 1968 house. Do you think that Z-Wave one will last 50 years too? I don't
I'd get this instead. I've used tons of these for all sorts of things. I even have one in my hot attic, no issue
Plus, if this above fails just remove it and plug your device directly into the wall temporarily until you replace it. If you get that receptacle, you need to now start doing electrical work (And you know it will fail at 11PM on a Sunday night)
So I saw this [link]
But it makes me wonder if I put this between the surge protector and the socket, does a surge protector still get power even though it has been tripped so then will it actually report that the surge protector is off or will it tell me if the appliances are off.
Awesome! I did nearly the exact same thing myself, however I have my Vera and a power sensing Z-Wave outlet to report the power to me. Also, my washing machine shuts itself off when the cycle is done so I needed some way to reset it. I used an ESP8266, an arcade button, and green LED to make a reset button for it. When Node-Red detects the cycle is over it will send a message to the ESP8266 over MQTT and the light will start flashing on the arcade button. Node-Red then sends my and my wife's phones alerts via Pushover and spamming the Google Home's every 5 minutes. Once someone goes to move the laundry and presses the button another MQTT message is relayed to Node-Red from the ESP8266 and a "Thank you" message is sent to Pushover/Google Homes and the light is told it may stop flashing.
Here's a pic of my Flow
My Reset Button
I haven't tried those Sonoff devices you've got, but it looks a good bit cheaper than the Z-Wave stuff I used (though they do require a bit more wiring it seems, mine are plug and play) but I'll have to pick up a few and see how well I can integrate them into stuff
I love the power meter functionality though! Just a couple more lines of code and I will totally have my Google announce the price of the wash once the button is pressed. Because Why not :D
I've seen a variety of Z-Wave switches that handle up to 15 - here is one example
I've got similar ones hooked up to an AC unit and have never had a problem
I have a 2nd gen SmartThings hub with a Zooz Z-wave switch paired to it. For LTE I was using a Netgear LTE modem, but have since switched to the Unifi LTE backup for my UDM.
Could you monitor amperage of the blower using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07578W7KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jAbUBb9VWKFG7
Not as ideal as monitoring pressure, but perhaps you could set up an alert if amps/watts dip below a threshold.
Zooz ZEN15 power switch. It can handle the high voltage.
After searching Amazon, I think this is what your looking for. It monitors usage.
Zooz Z-Wave Plus Power Switch ZEN15 for
This one on Amazon, it’s only got one outlet but supports the higher power load that it gets from the pump:
Zooz Z-Wave Plus Power Switch ZEN15 [link]
Maybe this is my ticket: Zooz Z-Wave Plus Power Switch ZEN15 for 110V AC Units, Sump Pumps, Humidifiers, and More [link]
Includes a range test feature...
EDIT: I've been learning a lot. I'm sharing my findings here for anyone else encountering this challenge. Reference links included below. I have a house window that can "see" the window in the garage vehicle door--direct line of sight through glass should work. I plan to set up a range extender inside the house window and one inside the garage. I will have to use extension cords to do this. Not ideal but I'm out of ideas. The distance is about 20-25' and this will theoretically allow a bypass of my metal siding and put the Z-Wave signal into the garage. Keeping in mind that Z-Wave allows a maximum of 4 "hops" I will be OK with my setup: ST Hub-->house repeater-->garage repeater-->lock. Also, this doesn't help at all with any Zigbee devices--I will need a separate extender situation for that if desired. At this point I'm not considering that.
The other caveat is that the Z-Wave Plus repeater(s) must support "beaming technology". Both the Innovelli and Zooz ZEN15 mentioned above support beaming. I'll probably go with two of the Innovelli since I already have one and it is slightly cheaper on Amazon. Both have 4.5/5 star ratings but the Zooz only has 18 reviews as of today vs 398 for the Innovelli.
I just have to remember not to add up what I've spent just to have an automated door lock on my garage. The lock itself, two repeaters, the hub itself... Hopefully Mrs. Lobster70 won't come across this.
Where to check for beaming support on the conformance statement: [link]
Also worth reading additional to link from BreakfastBeerz:
I have an old school washer and dryer. Both are electric
I use for my washer Zooz
And for my dryer I use Aeotec and I used this tutorial to hook it up Instructions
I have Smarthings and I used webcore to send the alerts to my devices
I also have SmartDry and I have been using it for a number of years
I've tried vibration sensors and magnets on my dial and pretty much everything else I have seen the above work best for me
If you are familiar with Tasker for Android I also use this to broadcast alerts from the Aeotec and Zooz to my Google Home speakers.
I have had no issues with any of the above
Any questions just ask
If you have a z-wave hub this should work
Zooz Z-Wave Plus Power Switch ZEN15 for 110V AC Units, Sump Pumps, Humidifiers, and More [link]
I've been looking into this:
I want to use it to track my washer, and let me know when its done with a cycle (since power usage will drop to 0)
Zooz Z-Wave Plus Power Switch... [link]
Works very well. Z-wave. Using it with home assistant. They also make a two outlet version Zen 25
This is one is very popular, it's made by Zooz.
Also made by Zooz for things like refrigerators dishwashers Etc.
Edit: just realized you said receptacles
First off, do not use an actual Sonoff with your AC. I can guarantee that you will burn it out catastrophically. I ran a very small space heater on a Sonoff and it melted right open. These things are Chinese made and don't have the world's best failure modes. They're fine for lamps, but I wouldn't use them for heavy equipment.
On the grounding thing, you can use a switch like this and connect the ground straight through from one side to the other (which is absolutely what you should do); don't leave the ground severed, that would be very dangerous.
What you want is something like this, I think: Zooz Z-Wave Plus Power Switch. This one is just Z-Wave so it won't work with GH directly (I use SmartThings), and it's for 110v, but I believe you could find something like this that runs on 220v and supports GH directly.
Look at this StackExchange post: [link]
So I think I'm going to go ahead and try canabalizing an existing z-wave device. This one to be precise