What are /r/3Dprinting's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Would be amazing if you placed some metal or ceramic skulls instead to be revealed as the wax melts.

Think something like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/PyroPet-Candle-Company-Aluminium-Skeleton/dp/B00LKNTRAK

STLs: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/fully-working-toy-cordless-screwdriver-with-torque-limiter-and-reverse-action

FYI you can buy this stuff in little sheets that's a lot nicer to work with like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007G0J1RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QCZCDbZMJSFYA

Clever to print directly into it, I'm gonna have to give that a try

Spotted this filament from Amolen at Amazon when searching for a good orange shade to print my latest model and thought to give it a try. Initial impression was a bit disappointing as it's really more dark green than black in real life, and the yellow also feels more greenish than on the pictures. But in more warm light it looks great and the effect is really fun to play with just using hair dryer as can be seen in the video!

Also the filament cooling during print is visualized nicely, this is the first color changing filament I've printed with that actually has 3 different distinct colors. No complains on print quality, this was very first print with it on my Prusa i3 MK3.

Model is available here: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-nine-tailed-demon-fox-85378

Link for filament: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L3RF8VF/

Have you tried a PEI? Stuff changed my 3dprinting life. No more glue, not more tape, just this board! PEI board on Amazon

Trebuchetchy vs the Fast Attack Missile Benchy

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5EkmOyykDnZ-trebuchetchy#/

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/48H1tMsqmwH-fast-attack-missile-benchy#/

I used woodfill, was really painful to clean up the strings

Looks like you're just using a boring soldering iron tip.

I picked up https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078K72615/ recently which has made them work way better. Cheaper than mcmaster-carr's: https://www.mcmaster.com/#92160A119

TO EVERYONE TRYING TO SHRED OP FOR USING “PLA”:

PLA+ is not the same as PLA, and in some cases, such as eSUN, it is far superior in strength due to its enhanced layer adhesion.

If you’ve never printed with eSUN PLA+, I highly suggest you go grab a spool off of Amazon or your local Micro Center and try it out. Their filament will defy everything you think you know about PLA (except for its ease of use to print).

Edit: here’s a direct Amazon link to eSUN Black PLA+ ($23 USD): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EKEMDA6

It's this. A brush-on acrylic-based effect medium. I can't find the Vallejo brand stuff for as cheap as OP says, but this stuff comes out to about that price per ml.

Summary of OP's statements so far:

MODEL

• The STL can be found on myminifactory - model by Rob Pauza called the Mandalorian Helmet. The URL is posted in the comments, but the bot hates it.
• STL was printed in one piece (except ears and back piece) but modified:
• Scaled at 108% (any bigger and according to another poster who has printed it before, it won't fit the CR10) but would print again at 104-105% - YMMV, OP has a 'bigger head'.
• Custom tree supports were needed on the top of the visor area.

PRINT

• Layer height was .28
• Printed oriented as it sits (upright)
• Took about 2 days to print on a 2-year-old CR10 using a mirror bed

FINISH

• Filler - Elmer's Wood Filler watered down a little
• Sanded, then primer, wetsand
• Black Gloss Paint
• The silver is Ultimate Mirror Chrome Aeorosol by SPaz Stix from Amazon
• No Clearcoat; damage adds character
• Foam pads were velcroed inside

VISOR

• Is a Hobart 770580 Face Shield Replacement Lens ($7) from Amazon
• Visibility is good

Please be aware that the lithium-ion battery you're using has absolutely no internal protection circuits, and lithium batteries can be severely damaged by draining them too low (around 9.5 volts for yours) or getting them too hot. "Severe damage" can, especially if done many times, can lead to the battery swelling or bursting into flames.

Normally, the power tool has electronics that monitor the battery and will refuse to run the tool if the battery gets too low or too hot. Your setup has the opposite feature, where the buck regulator will work fine down to very low voltage, and the stepper motors will simply run with less torque as the battery drains to the point where it is permanently damaged.

Your setup is unlikely to draw too much current at once from the battery, but I strongly recommend adding something to keep the batteries from being drained too low (over-discharged). The "correct" solution is a Battery Management System, a little circuit that goes between the battery and the electronics being powered. You can buy them inexpensively on amazon. Alternatively, you could have the ESP32 read the battery voltage directly, or you could add a volt meter and run your slider with the understanding that you really, really should remove the battery when it gets down to 9.5V.

$12

It's also "constructed from BPA-free silicone, which is soft,food-safe and tasteless, so it won't affect the taste of your tea." and "dishwasher and microwave safe"

Which a 3d print will not be

After priming, I coated with PVA glue and dusted with flocking fibers. Pat down the fibers lightly and then shake off the excess. I worked in sections so the glue wouldn't dry before i got the fibers on. The fibers I found were actually on ebay, couldn't find the colors I needed on Amazon at the time.

I've been printing and leaving pokemon at various pokestops and gyms in my neighborhood. I want to print up a bunch more and roam a bit wider.

I need to give a shout out to Agustin Flowalistik - whose models I've been printing. You can find a nice little collection here: https://www.youmagine.com/ultimaker/collections/low-poly-pokemon

I just hope they're found and they bring a little smile to people's faces.

-- Edit: Since this continues to get attention on twitter as well, I've started tagging my related tweets with #pokeprint -- please feel free to do the same so we can see how big things get!

just a cheap generic gold silk pla

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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~~The Google Camera app has a QR code reader built in. Most anyone with Android 7.0 or higher should be able to read a QR code by simply pointing their camera at it.~~

Edit: this was not one of my smarter moments. I have a Lenovo/Motorola Moto G5 Plus and the app is Moto Camera from Motorola Mobility. It is not the Google Camera as I previously believed.

Aw, shucks. That's my design. I'm pleased you like it. It's turned out well too.

I've also released a larger version for pint glasses, if anyone's interested.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/self-righting-gimballed-drinks-holder-2020-pint-glass-version

And that my friends, is why you use a different password for every site you visit. Me, I recommend BitWarden, which takes care of this.

https://bitwarden.com/

Open source, works well in browser and on mobile.

Got some "Skin" filament from 3D Solutech just for this print job. See the model for more pictures.

The Print came out amazing and Thing is doing his job already. Might need a little bit of a wash to fill the creases and some clear polish for the nails. Otherwise I'll leave it mostly untouched.

0.24 layer height (the biggest I could get using 0.3mm nozzle).

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/improved-filament-run-out-sensor#documents

A perfect use for one of your filament spool remnants- uses only 7-8 g of filament and prints in just a few minutes.

Wire the miniature snap-action switch to your controller board and set the configuration to stop or pause the printer when the switch closes or opens.

Thank you!! I tried and failed with the filament that comes with the ender 3 v2 (probably my fault). I ordered this black Hatchbox 1.75 mm off of amazon based upon some recomendations online and switched to it about halfway through troubleshooting.

In my experience it was selling a product that had a 4+ week lead time that concerned PayPal. Apparently it is in violation of credit card merchant agreements to charge a card for a product that isn't in the process of shipping. Conventional credit card processors let you authorize a hold and then charge the card once the product ships, but PayPal doesn't have that functionality IIRC.

A lot of what PayPal gets grief for is actually rooted in credit card agreements. I do think PayPal's customer service could be a lot better, though. On the other hand, managing a chargeback is easier with PayPal than Stripe since PayPal lets you communicate with the customer and upload supporting evidence.

EDIT: All payment processors have rules about this sort of thing, btw: https://stripe.com/blog/why-some-businesses-arent-allowed

Yeah that's pancakebot. Been around for a while. Reviews aren't good.

Not a dumb question. The answer is:

1) take a picture of this tool fitted to whatever you're shaping: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R3YNXMW/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_WtnPDbCBQYS0F

2) import as Canvas into Fusion

3) calibrate the canvas

4) trace the curves with a spline

CC3D is the manufacture m, got it off Amazon in the US. CC3D Silky Copper

Settings wise, I used Simplify 3D, .2mm on my .4mm nozzle, and in Vase Mode. Printing temp was 205 on my Ender 3.

Hopefully those are the settings you are curious about. Still new to 3D printing, only been an owner a couple weeks, so let me know if you’d like anything else.

As the guy that developed the Filastruder...

Its a bad idea for a lot of reasons - most of have been touched on here. To summarize:

• You can't really do retraction with an auger based system.
• You can't get good coloring (plastics are colored with super concentrated pellets called master batch) without a sizable melt zone.
• Even a small melt zone on a auger-based extruder will result in about 100x more material being purged (wasted) when switching colors/materials.
• Volumetric output control is difficult with an auger based system as opposed to a steps/mm based filament feeding extruder.
• Auger based extruders are very heavy by comparison, meaning you need to have a 2-DoF (or 3-DoF) bed. This makes the printer larger and more expensive.
• Auger based extruders are more expensive as well, and it limits you to materials you can source in pellet form (as opposed to a conventional FDM printer and standalone pellet extruder).

If you end up getting the ExtrusionBot2, let us know what you think. Reviews on the first version have been sparse.

Yes indeed the STL files are available here for sale. And all other info and video of the kayak in action can be found here

This is what my BIL uses and he never has any problems in public. That includes Disney and LEGO parks last year.

The occasional stare and then "hey, where did you get that, I want that?! is all that ever happens.

To answer some questions:

1. STL files are fairly easy to find at the various places.
2. Printed on a heavily modified Solidoodle 2 with E3D hotend at .2mm layer height in ABS.
3. I printed these mainly because it seemed like a fun challenge and I would like to play with a couple of friends. I wouldn't be able to afford to play otherwise. The quality still doesn't compare to actual models so it isn't going to be the immediate death of GW (they already have all sorts of their own problems to worry about first).
4. For gaming in general, 3D printing has a lot going for it. I really like what people like Dutchmogul are doing

Edit: Fixed typo

Repost so I could crop out my address... just in case lol.

I’ve used this brand a few times and it’s proven to be reliable for being cheaper. When to get another spool and saw there’s a 50% coupon, though I would share.

AMAZON LINK

Edit: ok so either we broke it or they ran out.

I appreciate the heads up on the deal but just a little bit more effort would save everyone so much time. On mobile it's a ridiculous exercise to open a tab and swap back and forth between the image as you manually type in the coupon code. And that's if you find the right product. I tried searching for it manually and thought I located the right filament but the coupon code wouldn't work. Even switching to a desktop requires manually typing it and of course both the url and the code have zero's and oh's.

Here's the product link

Here's the coupon code: 4NO6Q4Z4

The uploader can select what license the work is subject to on thingiverse.

This one is uploaded under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike-license.

The ender 3v2 comes with a spare nozzle but I also got this just in case: 0.4MM MK8 Nozzles, Bibonse 20PCS 3D Printer Extruder Brass Nozzles with 10 Stainless Steel Cleanning Needles for Ender 2/3/5 Makerbot Creality CR-10 Anet A6 A8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FYP644H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_VM3aGbBTQGX3V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

WD-40, for the most part, is piss poor at doing anything well. It is over marketed, over hyped at what it does. It is a lubricant, a poor one. It is also a rust penetrator, a poor one. In the shop, we called it monkey piss, because you might as well have used monkey piss to get that rusty rotor that has seen 10 salty Midwest winters, off the hub.

It works as a jack of all trades (kinda), which makes it handy for the home owner that wants one can that can do many things. In reality, if you want a lubricant, get a proper one. If you want a rust inhibitor, there are brands available that do the job much quicker, that foam up, penetrate and stick to the rust (instead of dripping off) where you can see the rust pulled away and fall off. Go to your auto parts supplier and ask the guys who do wholesale for the local shops, and they'll point you to what is used. If they recommend WD-40, walk out.

Edit: Thanks to DrCockenstein for reminding what we used, PB Blaster. Here's an Amazon link to the product. I can't recommend it enough if you are trying to loosen something rusty.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-Penetrating-Catalyst-11-Ounces/dp/B000I2079E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483636915&sr=8-1&keywords=pb+blaster#customerReviews TLDR: WD-40 is garbage, a proper lubricant should be purchased.

Fun fact: I accidentally ordered this thinking it changed temps with heat, and was about 10 minutes into writing a bitchy review since it wouldn't change color indoors no matter what temp it was.

Then the sun hit it and I was all like "DOY!"

Prints really well, and the color change is very rapid. give it a go!

I printed this on my MendelMax 2 using ABS. It weighs about 350 grams compared to my Bach Strad which weighs about 1.5 kg.

EDIT: Hijacking my own comment. I've since posted a video of me playing it. as well as uploaded the files to thingiverse.

Yes this is avaliable in Cults and Thingiverse for free. I tried to upload a video but Reddit keeps removing it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2977783/comments

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/nintendo-openrc-mariokart

Those are 3D printed production prototypes, the actual production product will be injection molded. I have a great overview of the injection molded material in the full video on the project page here.

I spent a ton of hours printing all the Pact Plates! Much more than 2 hours each haha, they are each 150 x 150mm

Thank you! I'm glad you like it!

The robot arm is this low cost one from amazon. Not exactly the most repeatable motion.

Over the past few months, I have been designing and printed this axe that holds dice and miniatures. Throughout all of that time, this community has inspired me to keep creating this. I don’t want to be that guy who self promotes, but if you are interested, here is the link.-

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/dnd-dice-axe-dungeons-and-dragons

Just buy the calipers. One of the best tools I have in my 3D printer arsenal. I bought some cheap high precision ones from Amazon and they rock.

As ForeverBronzeRL wrote, chips would be the way to go - something like SureFeed microchip cat feeder, combined with different sounds/light color when opening the feeder.

If money isn't a concern - I would go for two separate feeders - in slightly different places. Cats would learn whose which. Cat weight/chips/face recognition could be used as the "authorization" key for the food.

To add to what u/robotcannon said, don't just get good solder, get thin solder. If your solder is twice as thick, a cross section will have four times the area. That means it takes a lot more heat to melt fat solder.

I started out with a cheap iron and fat unleaded solder. Every solder joint was frustrating and demoralizing. I could not understand how the people making tutorials made it look so easy. After I upgraded my iron and got the right solder, it just took a little practice.

Speaking of practice, a kit like this is what took my skills from horrible to passable. https://www.amazon.com/Hourglass-Shape-LED-Flashing-Electronics/dp/B0797T5K5N/ Choose a kit based on how many joints you will have to solder, not based on what it does. A light-up hourglass is dumb and pointless, but you will have to make a couple hundred joints. That's how you get good.

You seem to be into sturdy construction. You might find that printed parts would hold up better if you spread the load on them over a larger surface area by putting some washers under the heads of the screws. Star lock washers in combination with flat washers will keep the screws from loosening, too. Split ring lock washers don't work, so don't bother with them.

In the photo, the plastic is clearly deformed by the screws that anchor the part to the t-slot. You might want to make the plastic part a slightly tighter fit before you add the screw. That way it will deform less, again, reducing stress on the plastic part.

Finally, look into modifier meshes in Slic3r. They allow you to control fill density for specific areas in a print. In this case, you could make the fill right around the screw holes solid which would be much stronger.

My brother and I sell what we call Pellet Caddy. This is the link to the amazon listing.

> Is a hardened steel option enough? Is the $100 ruby nozzle overkill?

Yes. Brass nozzles are $0.80 each and should be considered a consumable maintenance item.

Even if you changed nozzles every two spools of wood PLA your overall cost wold be lower.

It's only $200 at Home Depot and it routinely goes on sale for $170. So uh... maybe you over paid.

Pretty sure they are like $5 for a 10 pack.

​

Edit: Close, $8. https://www.amazon.com/BronaGrand-Replacement-Thumbsticks-PlayStation-Controller-4/dp/B01HVA2U90/

AMOLEN PLA Filament 1.75mm, Color Changing with Temperature, Blue to White, 3D Printer Filament +/- 0.03 mm, 1kg(2.2lb), Includes Sample Temp Color Change Pink to White Filament. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFMGBYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e.U-CbHWJGDXW

Dumbass stop trying to sell these; the model you downloaded has a non commercial license. Stop trying to make money from other peoples work! link to STL

This definitely looks like an Anet A8. Before using it there are some safety upgrades that should be done. You should add better mosfets for the hot end and bed. The ones on the controller board are known to burn out and are a fire risk. The other thing that needs to be done is to better secure the wiring connection to the heated bed. The wires come loose from movement and cause arcing. This actually happened to me but I caught it arcing before the fire started. I replaced the bed wiring with a set that has silicone reinforcement to protect the connections. If you make these safety upgrades and dial the printer in, it is actually capable of some fine printing. MOSFET: https://www.amazon.com/Yosoo-Printer-Heated-Expansion-Upgrade/dp/B01MT1U4J8/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=heatbed+mosfet&qid=1567864246&s=gateway&sr=8-13 Upgraded hot bed wires: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079FWS9HW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With the upgraded bed wiring make sure you also add something to protect the connection on the bed from wear like a cable guide chain or brace for the connection. Many people just go ahead and solder the wires directly to the heated bed.

I'll be that guy.

This is so cool and useful that you should probably post it to additional repositories, like https://cubehero.com/ and https://www.youmagine.com/ . With the way Makerbot, the owner of Thingiverse, has been, you probably don't want to leave it just with them.

The clothes sealing bags are better, and reusable.

https://www.amazon.com/SpaceSaver-Premium-Reusable-Storage-Included/dp/B00X8KSKF6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=vacuum+bag&qid=1569796492&sr=8-4

My monitor is pretty crap in terms of color accuracy, but to me it looks similar to eSUN light blue. As a color hoarder, this is one of the few that I've ever gone out of my way to buy not just a second spool, but a third spool of. Not the most amazing PLA I've ever printed with but such a nice color for the cost!

>Most reputable manufacturers already provide a photo of the spool.

And their photo might be using a camera with white balance turned on. This argument is poor -- the reason that greybeard3d.com is doing this is for consistency. He's using the same camera in the same lighting with (presumably) the same printer.

I disagree with you completely. On Amazon, Hatchbox has three greens, and two are so damn close to identical, they could've been a photoshop hue-shift.

Compare eSUN Pine Green to Greybeards Picture -- Their picture on Amazon sucks. It's washed out, doesn't look like the end result at all.

I bought this filament due to Greybeards picture, and mine came out looking like his.

Mr. Greybeard if you're reading, use this comment as a reason for you to get sponsors and free filament donations. I was sketchy about buying their product until I saw your photos.

This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME7YUIU. It is very whispy when I printed the Eiffel Tower and requires 230C to print well. It also just doesn't stick to my bed very well (again, maybe a bed temperature issue) but also has extrusion problems for the first few mm, causing supports to not print correctly.

I am waiting to get the bed fixed to see if it is truly a bed temperature issue before i ditch the few rolls I purchased and move to something better.

Hmm. This is a tricky print to get right, especially with the customers expectations. The quality of your prints look about the same as the parts from the Thingiverse page. It looks like the original parts are injection molded and that was what he was expecting.

I will go ahead and cancel and refund this order, but make sure you are still paid out.

P.S. You can also add ‘Post-Processing’ or any other service fees as a line item to an order - just be sure to communicate the appropriate pricing beforehand.

[Update 2: The Linklings are now let loose on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:679849]

[Update: I have set on the name Linklings suggested by Hanoobslag. That is if no one screams objection. Thanks for all the ideas, you really made it hard to decide!]

I'm looking for a name for them. Suggestions welcome! If anyone likes to already print them in PLA that would be great to know if it works good with them snapping together. I could not try it myself here, my printer gets always clogged with PLA. Here is the file: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2650899/Grabbie12.stl

Designed (Fusion 360) and printed (Silver Monoprice PLA on Monoprice Maker Select v2) these grips for my Nintendo New 3DS.

Prints in 3 parts (top and 2 grips), easily glued together. The 3DS is held in with friction for easy removal, but does not drop out even when held upside down. Pictured parts lightly sanded to make it completely smooth to the touch.

Design available on Cults3D.

If only one software picked it up on Virustotal, then it's very very very unlikely to an actual virus. It's a false positive in that case.

In general, if it's not detected as a virus, it would at least be detected to be a encrypted/compressed exe, which is mostly flagged as suspicious or generic.

If you want an even more in depth analysis than VirusTotal, try hybrid-analysis , although most of its technical.

Made in Spain, not China

Edit: Fascinating that I'm getting downvoted (currently sitting at -1) for taking the company at their word and not assuming that they are lying about the origin of their PLA.

Amazon listing: "BQ PLA is manufactured in Spain."

Manufacturer's store listing for their PLA: "Made in Europe"

If someone has reason to believe that BQ is lying and the filament comes from another source, please let me know.

Thanks for the link! I found it after reading further in the discussion, but it’s problematic for a few reasons.

1. All of those tests were single-core, and the Pi4 will definitely use more power when running Octoprint, with its multiple processes and threads.
2. I’m not even using a Pi4; I actually have a few Pine H64B boards, and I’ve tested them with 1.5A, 2.0A, 2.4A, and 3A power supplies. I can reliably cause hard power failure (including shutdowns) at everything below 2.4A when stressing 4 cores on the system; it tries to draw more power than is available. So I’d like to have the 3A for a little headroom.
3. You’re totally right, and I could just use an external adapter, but it seems silly when there’s one that’s almost good enough right there :)

Even though it looks like this wouldn’t quite work for me, nice job on the board! It’s gorgeous. Maybe I can convince you to go with the overkill USB-C higher-current parts on that 12-stepper monster you mentioned elsewhere around here?

EDIT: Hmm, are you sure about this part?

> I'd have to replace the USB type A connector with a USB type C that can handle that much current.

There are a ton of USB-A 5V 3A chargers out there. A quick search on Amazon for "5v 3a usb charger" pulled up several, including the official Raspberry Pi charger which is ~~USB-~~ UL-certified and claims 5V 3A with a single USB-A port.

It’s esun! They have a “silk” variant.

I got it from Amazon, but it looks like it might be out of stock on the purple. Here’s the link to the product listing - looks like they have 6 other colors. eSUN Silk PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKZ49Q7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n5Q1Cb3QD66PA

It looks like it’s a color changing PLA because it is hollow and the light from the top is being diffused through it.

Would be great to sell it as a product. But I doubt that would be easy and far from cheap. At least letting it print on something like shapeways would be very expensive. I entered the Countertop challenge with it though, maybe something comes out of that: http://www.thingiverse.com/challenges/CountertopChallenge/

STL can be found here - Not my design, I found it while browsing online and thought it would be a great weekend build. Printed in PLA at 1.5x scale of the STL, sits about 160mm tall and is roughly 300mm end to tip of knife. Primed, sanded, weathered, and highlighted with rub'n'buff silver.

In the future I'd like to print a life sized version and include a motion activated spinning knife, maybe more.

Edit: This creature is from the series Black Mirror, Season 4 Episode 5.

Whosawhatsis quick print gear bearing https://www.youmagine.com/designs/quick-print-gear-bearing

Printed in PLA at 0.3mm layer height on a printrbot simple metal w/heated bed

other color configurations: http://i.imgur.com/01dB8Um.jpg

Here ya go

I originally made this for a Digital 3d class that im in. I made it in the beginning of last semester. The teacher has us use Tinkercad for the first semester and Onshape in the second (hence why the file is on Tinkercad)

Same deal with their wood pla: Amazon link

Edit: ~~looks like you can only use one coupon, I already purchased the white then tried this one and the coupon didn't take the 50% off at checkout.~~

New Edit: Thanks to u/Specte I tried again and it worked, must have been a glitch at Amazon the first few times I tried.

Good catch but you should buy one of these.https://www.amazon.com/Glentronics-Inc-BWD-HWA-00895001498-Basement/dp/B000JOK11K/ref=asc_df_B000JOK11K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198096709148&hvpos=1o9&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2485488544091809767&hvpone=&hvptwo=&h...

These were both printed on CR-10S at .2mm layer height with 10% infill.

The filament is Ziro Marble PLA

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Download your copy for FREE now! Expires this Friday 11/30/18: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KQCJVP7

From a different country? No problem! Just search "3D Printing Failures" from your local Amazon and find this version to download for free!

Just click “Buy now with 1-Click” to not sign up with Kindle Unlimited.

(REPOSTED due to url shortener)

Looks like they are combining E-Nable's "flexi hand" with E-Nable's "Limbitless Arm" there.

E-Nable is definitely not for profit. I have no idea what Microsoft was doing there at all. It almost looks like Microsoft trying to claim credit for E-Nable's work.

E-Nable(volunteers) give them away for free too. They aren't "affordable". They are FREE.

The fit isn't great, but not bad considering I didn't customize the dimensions at all. Ideally those slots on either side would be for some velcro straps to hold it in place. There's a pretty big gap at the wrist, but I'd probably put padding in there anyways.

You can find the print here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:403001

We need to see more stuff like this.

• Print at a lower layer height.

• Sand the part with progressively smoother sand paper.

• Apply acetone with a paper towel and smooth it out.

• Check out the ABS Polishing Experiment.

It would scare the hell out of me to check that case. If it were me, I'd:

• pay extra to make it carry-on, or

• check it in, but throw in a $20 starter pistol in it and declare there's a gun in your luggage.

It's this stuff here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J3ZLK66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a beautiful color, but it's a royal PITA to print with. Maybe it's operator error, but I have three machines and all three struggle with that material. It likes to gum up and clog. I was hoping to do the whole rocket in that stuff, but it kept failing because of clogs. I switched over to the rolls of old filament that have been sitting around for months, and everything printed out just fine.

So. There's a lot of arguing in this thread. Lots of comments about food safety and how it's both possible and impossible.

Why not just the 25 bucks and get a metal one and we all stop pretending that 3d printing is the end all be all solution to every problem.

Seriously. This is not a good application for 3d printing. Prints aren't strong enough to resist the force and pressure. You need to put a lot of time, effort and money in to making a really shitty version of this.

Just buy a decent quality fruit press.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU542EM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_hhuKDbKARJ0SF

I call those "Birds nests". Yours is the best I've ever seen!

I watch my printers with this Wi-Fi camera. I like it because it can see in the dark, and pivot to look around at my filament spools and other things in the room.

If things go haywire and I need to shut down the printer, I use these Wi-Fi power outlets. I have one on each printer and a lamp in the room.

Both the camera and outlets have iOS/Android apps and work great on my phone.

I know people always ask for stl's. This is the first set of stl's I'm going to try to sell (only because i spent hundreds of hours trying to get this to work correctly and reliably). So here's a link if you're interested: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/functional-pepperbox-4-barrel-derringer-cap-gun-toy

No pressure. Just hope you guys enjoy looking at the weird trigger mechanism in this thing.This project is tough to get working properly so i really don't recommend this project for beginners. Hopefully I'll have an assembly video coming out soon.

😊

Robo R1, white PLA, colored with a purple sharpie pen. I am SHOCKED at how well Sharpie pens color PLA. I might have to invest in a full set of them. I tested with the Fine Point, but the Sharpie Brush gave better coverage.

FYI, I discovered if you get sharpie where it's not supposed to go, you can remove it with acetone nail polish remover and it will not harm the PLA.

Model from Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:555242

I designed the sign using Tinkercad:

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3hG0sgmD5zZ

I want to echo this as I got the same feedback posting a photo of my own egg crate lined enclosure.

After that I replaced all the egg crate foam with automotive insulation sheets. They are thin so I even doubled up. It's much better at blocking sound.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751CBXBT/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_pA4.Db6AEBEK5

I also just recently installed dampers on my motors and holy shit that did more than any other trick to reduce noise.

Buy better springs like these: https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Springs-Compression-Creality-Leveling/dp/B07K9PBML5

The stock springs are garbage and don't hold anything in place. A slight bump will knock it out of level.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VJ2RHKF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

credit to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:196038

You can't really appreciate the filament unless it's moving and I don't have a fancy turntable so I stole the one from my microwave lol

edit: the filament is https://smile.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X/

> Any printer that runs Marlin

Not to be snarky, but Marlin is just printer software - it has no effect on infill. Infill is decided by the slicer, so any printer can do hexagon infill (aka honeycomb) with the right slicer.

Also, 3D honeycomb is where it's at.

11 hour print at 35mm/s. First tried 50mm/s, and that failed. Lots and lots of retractions, it handled it very well. I was never able to print this on my delta due to the long bowden extuder.

Here is the model: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/the-shrine

(my design)

I had no idea this sort of thing was something people wanted! I'm happy to add it for other people to use.

https://cubehero.com/physibles/AimeNikor/2012_HondaCivic_ParkingBrakeButton

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/2012-honda-civic-parking-brake-button

>The plastic used to cover an outlet is safer than the plastic used in a 3d printer.

Not true. Wall plate covers are typically nylon, which you can absolutely 3d print with.

Proof

I think op may have bought pre multi coloured filament. Like one of these rolls https://www.amazon.ca/Fasmov-Multicolor-Filament-Materials-Gradually/dp/B07Z4KTBR5/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=multicolor+filament+1.75&qid=1612032010&sprefix=multi+colour+filam&sr=8-6

As a broke student, HP printers are actually good value for money!

Use a syringe and refill ink. Never buy official consumables. Purchase the printer on amazon so if it dies you can go through their support when HP inevitably don't help.

You can rest happy in the knowledge that HP are losing money on your purchase because you never buy their overpriced ink.

It's not an installed receptacle. It's one of those plug into wall socket with extra USB power add on plates, it just looks like a normal socket... https://www.amazon.com/Huntkey-2-Outlet-Cradle-Charging-SMD407/dp/B01ALHQQU4/ref=mp_s_a_1_52?adgrpid=55857320637&gclid=Cj0KCQiAno_uBRC1ARIsAB496IVpw-3Yp7w0nmagv_ZCE_WNWp52cEWNWMeHHb4qk8cVvK4RnfIgBsQaAhV7EALw_wcB&hvadid=274719587477&hvd...

You should probably buy a heat gun, they aren't expensive lower end models are just ~$15-25. Typically hairdryers don't get nearly hot enough for solid blobs. The heat gun is able to put out temperatures of >750F (>395C) more than high enough temperature to soften and even melt any conventional filament you throw at it.

Yes it's a normal cable, nothing fancy. The keycaps mount on the standard cross thing. If you meat the switches: cherry mx / gateron have some clips but I also added some bigger blocker so I wont pull out the wires when I'll remove the keycaps. It's basically a triangle that allows the switch to slide in but not to go out. Check the 7th image at this link: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/bloko-9-pico

Modified and prepped for printing in Blender. Spliced in Cura. Printed with my Printrbot Simple Metal with 1.75mm PLA. Painted with acrylic.

Files located here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:463063

Original Thingiverse artist: skipmontinola

Enjoy!

This isn't correct. Don't even care if the downvote brigade loses their mind fighting reality on this.

The software and hardware support for servos is all completely available. Someone has even made a printer from servos http://hackaday.com/2014/05/26/servo-stock-the-future-of-3d-printers/

Servos are widely available in a range of sizes, accuracies and implementations from cheap pots to magnetic encoding wheels.

Steppers are cheap and highly repeatable. Cheap steppers are more accurate and accessible than cheap servos.

I'm from Barberia and I resent your egregious mischaracterization of my people.

We don't leave our markers on a table or in a drawer. We hang them next to the white board along with an eraser and cleaning fluid.

Wrong tool for the job. Stainless steel is not really suitable for abrasive composites.

Here is hardened steel after about twice as much composites, mostly glass fiber abs, but some abs-cf and pa-cf too: https://imgpile.com/images/Uivnlw.jpg

0.4mm nozzle. Took it out to check for wear, and there is basically no wear at all...

Weird. I got a set of different sizes and I've been able to use several different sizes and types of inserts.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LQTD21D/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_SFSX5TSHTT5HXPCD1VB7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the kind words here is the link to the filament. It actually looks a lot more pink in person the camera washes it out a bit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VCBZ81Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H4WBR9MCQHZZAMNTSKKR

It's also going to become less accurate over time as the plastic wears.

It's a cool project, but not one I'd want to use for anything that required high accuracy. A good set of calipers is cheap enough.

I've discovered that for light smoothing and removing of strings, a small brass wire brush works amazingly -- those cheap disposable ones.

The brass is soft enough so that it doesn't scratch the surface, but will actually gently polish it smooth.