FWIW, I’ve been with them for several months. I almost always go over 6 gb in a month as I travel a lot and my school’s WiFi isn’t always reliable. With that, though, I will say that my service/reception has been very similar to when I had Verizon. It makes sense as Xfinity just uses their towers.
I think I’ve maxed out my data once (used about 23 or 24 gb) and the throttling was noticeable, but livable. And by that point it was a couple days away from the end of the billing cycle.
As for the billing-I too financed an iPhone X through them; it was an easy setup, phone arrived at my house as it was supposed to. Once I paid the first month of service + device payment, an option to make individual device payments became available on the “Xfinity Mobile” app (it’s the account management app).
I also use NordVPN and have no issues using over cellular data or WiFi. (Of course it’s slightly slower than without the VPN, but that’s to be expected.)
As far as video streaming-I don’t think it’s always throttled to 480/720. Sometimes I can get full HD clips, and when I use the Xfinity Stream app to watch live TV, the picture usually looks to be 720p at least.
TL:DR love my service (same coverage as Verizon), call quality is clear, phone activation and payments have been straightforward, the “chat” option on Xfinity mobile app/website is awesome for technical help, videos usually stream in high quality!
a while back there were some exploits for Firebase that would sometimes result in Spammy notifications/messages "from apps".
These messages were usually harmless, and would NOT have been related to Xfinity.
More likely I'm thinking that possibly someone was going around and trying to connect to Xfinity hotspots or wireless networks or something with a device named "Facebook" for example. And you would get a message like "Facebook would like to connect to your wifi"
Even if you did let someone into your wireless, you would still be very unlikely to get breached like that without other security warnings from them hijacking the internet once inside or something.
If you suspect you may have opened/clicked a malicious notification/link, make sure you have antivirus and anti-spyware installed, preferably a VPN as well, grab a phone or computer and network connection you trust, and go contact your bank and any other services/people you don't want a hacker inside to check that there is no unauthorized access and reissue anything you need to.
If you haven't yet, this would also be a great time to setup 2FA and a password manager like 1Password.com
You could get Little Snitch and start observing your network from one place. It may help.
>yep. Was inside that loop for 3 years but last tech was really good and said either a "line technician" needs to be called out to replace the TAP or I need a booster installed inside to permanently fix drops.
>If you want you can order a booster on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AETXH7A?pf\_rd\_r=25GQJ99VHQHFP1BA2VT5&pf\_rd\_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd\_rd\_r=e92fcd4a-f3e7-4aa0-aeb1-70c92868fb73&pd\_rd\_w=YT1N2&pd\_rd\_wg=RIpEg&ref\_=pd\_gw\_unk
>guess its called an internet modem signal amplifier with active return....hope that helps ya. With comcast, it shouldnt be this way but, gots to take matters into our own hands to get shyt done right.
Yeah. It all started cause the Xfinity site told me my modem was out of date, so I bought a new one and then couldn't stop... Here is the one I got
You should be able to buy your own modem. Netgear is selling a "certified for Xfinity" DOCSIS3.1 modem on Amazon.
I’m really surprised by the amount of power over Ethernet suggestions. MOCA is the way to go.
Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack (ECB6200K02), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8ThlFbV51SWMA
You’re not going to get Gigabit over WiF right now. That's not going to happen until Wifi 6e is released. I max out around 480mbps over WiFi. There are a number of wifi networks created by Arlo devices around me. Over ethernet I get about 780mbps. Hitting less than 940mbps advertised speed is just what is happening in these times of everyone staying home. If you have more than 8 wifi networks showing full strength then you might want to consider getting a router that supports Dynamic Frequency Selection (DFS) this will allow you extra 5ghz channels as long as you don’t live in a big city or close to any weather radar system. DFS is supported by many devices with the notable exception of Amazon devices. The router I had while I was living in an apartment was the “Portal”. Took me from 25mbps back up to 150mbps I was paying for. https://www.amazon.com/Portal-Mesh-Wi-Fi-Router-high-performance/dp/B01JQROZZS/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=portal+wifi&qid=1589317473&sr=8-
400mbps is a good speed to get over wifi. Try plugging directly into ethernet and see what you get, you will probably get a lot closer to your plan speed if you do.
You don't need stupid expensive "Monster" type splitters - so don't fall for that. Standard cable splitters are 5-1000 Mhz (1Ghz). Splitters that are MoCA compliant are 5 - 1675 Mhz. I'd suggest you just go witht he MoCA compliant splitters. Holland, Commscope, Antronix, Extreme are all brands Comcast uses.
This app? - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.comcast.hsf&hl=en
when it first launches you will see a sign in screen.
Once in map mode tap the three bars on the left > settings > automatically choose best connection = check.
In android app permissions make sure the hotspots app has permissions to modify system settings.
I haven't used it since I got an S8, i'll test it out on my way home.
EDIT - It worked when I passed a hotspot, i did have to give Captiveportal access to my phone when it tried to connect initially.
App version 5.0.5 (551)
Phone Samsung S8/Android 7.0 Patch level 7-1-17
You really need to see what bands your phone supports.
Verizon and AT&T are a bit different in what bands they use and the details can be found here
You may have an S8+, but not all of them are the same.
Grab your model number (something like G9xxx) and head to a site like GSMarena
to see what bands that specific version of phone supports.
P.S. For GSM arena you have to click expand to see the bands in the network / technology section.
Here in DC the same thing at about 9 pm - bandwidth fell through the floor. Comcast's own speedtest won't even load and fast.com is giving me 170 kbps down. Restarts aren't helping.
You will need a travel router and connect to the travel router with a smart phone or tablet or PC to sign in. Then connect to the travel router’s SSID. I got this one travel router
Did you get the XB7 modem (the white one) ? if yes, you have to connect your ethernet cable to the 4th Ethernet connection down to the bottom right (it has a little red dash sideways next to it), your ethernet cable has to be at least a cat6 or cat6A, your pc need to have an ethernet port that can handle more than 1gb otherwise you are gonna need one of this here https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter-NT-S25G/dp/B08979LXJK
Is the is Arris model?
ARRIS Surfboard S33 DOCSIS 3.1 Multi-Gigabit Cable Modem with 2.5 Gbps Ethernet Port, Approved for Cox, Xfinity, Spectrum & Others. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FMSC5WZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3W9BED3126B69610TD30
There’s a good chance that your neighbors’ devices are connecting to your modem/router gateway through the coax cable because your Comcast installer did not put the necessary filter on the incoming line.
Get a MoCA Point of Entry filter and install it on the incoming cable line before the first splitter at the house.
This would do fine, it’s 5 bucks:
Yes, the signal can easily be somewhat weak but still okay speeds in one place, and just slightly weaker and slow in others. Interference can easily be a factor.
I use extenders myself on my network, and they do very well. Wired back haul to the main router will always be better where it's possible (so in that case you'd need an Access Point, but most extenders can do that as well), but it's not always possible.
Find a place where the signal back to the main router is strongest and put your extender there.
If you happen to have an Android phone, I've found this app to be very handy to suss out signal strengths: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pzolee.wifiinfo
The dish splitters may not be compatible with the video and network signals coming from Comcast.
1. Find all your splitters replace with ones that say they are MoCA compatible like these:
2-Way MOCA Splitter 5-1675Mhz
Filter, MoCA POE for Cable TV & OTA coaxial Networks ONLY
After you’ve done that, let’s see if you still have a problem
Found this TM722G for under $20 in a few minutes of googling. It's still approved for the lower tiers of internet speeds, but like I said you can register it alongside your SB8200 and just not use it. You might be able to find something better if you spend more time on searching, but that's up to you.
I ordered 2 extra remotes for my TVs from Amazon. I have a slightly different Xfinity remote than yours, but I think this one should work for you. They're about $10 with Prime.
If you have any problems, it's an easy-peezy return to Amazon. Good luck!
ProtonVPN or Windscribe. To my.knowledge, there's nothing Xfinity makes available to the account owner that shows what websites were visited. But there could be something on the network that is logging websites, such as a self-owned router or a Pi-Hole. A VPN would prevent any such devices from logging it.
Yes, it sends the packets over the coax. Actiontec MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1 Gbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA Adapter (ECB6200S02),Black,9.2" x 3" x 6.5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0-JgFb89KPMQ3
Try amazon smile to donate to charity automatically at no cost to you!
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you don't need another modem, you need a moca adapter. I use this one - totally plug and play. I do find i need to reset it when the cable modem is rebooted - just a heads up.
if your router supports MoCa, you can just add one of these.
If not, you need 2.
When i go into my comcast router, I can see all the connected devices, one shows MoCa (my tv box); so I know my router supports MoCa.
If you only need one coax connection in the residence (to connect to your gateway), then you could bypass this amplifier device. Disconnect the input coax and connect it directly to the coax line feeding your gateway. Use an F81 barrel adapter (similar to below) to connect the two coax cables together.
S33 has both 2.5gbps and a 1gbps port while the MB8611 does not. I have a Unifi UDM-pro and used this SFP+ module to connect the 2.5gbps port then WAN aggregate the other 1gbps port.
A lot of the higher end consumer grade routers have a 2.5gbps port that allows you to WAN aggregate into a single 1gbps port as well.
Ohh yes it could 50-60Mbps, depending on the WiFi standard your device is using, the number of channels configured on the access point and the interference and distance from it.
I am inclined to say that since you have the latest Xfinity gateway, your device is the culprit. Please download WiFiMan (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.usurvey) and check what standard your device is connected to. If you are connected via 802.11n, in the best if scenarios you will reach close to 90Mbps depending on the number of antennas and channels your device is using.
> Anyone recommend a good mesh system?
You don't want mesh if you can help it. You want APs connected by ethernet that support wifi roaming.
Something like this will support most consumers needs just fine.
This should solve your issue and let you do the full 1.2gbps on your Mac:
That said, it's not really noticeable in my experience. Most internet services won't push 1.2gbps at you; you tend to only see it if you do multiple downloads at once. But I know the satisfaction that stems from being plugged in at maximum speed so go for it if you want. :)
1) yes not possible to web browse to anysite. This isn't all the time. It varies.
2) can go for 3 or 4 days no issue, been happen randomly for about 2 months.
3) yes to restarting gateway.
4) no I don't have a proxy enabled, or 3rd party software causing the problem.
It's something up steam in comcast. 3 browsers, across 3 devices have this problem at the exact same time, every time . I can start up a webserver on a machine locally and other workstations can connect to it.
When it's happening, I can browse if connected to ProtonVPN on 1 workstation. The other two, I can't. other two don't have vpn. Don't forget my linux box has same issue.
It depends. You'll need to be connected over 5gHz, not 2.4. That's why I usually set my router to use two separately-named networks so I can ensure that the stuff I need to be fast connects to the faster network.
You're not going to get speeds over 400mbps (or around that, I don't know the exact number) unless your router and your connected device have wifi 6. I have about 10 wifi devices in my home but only two of them have wifi 6; my iPhone 13 Pro and my MacBook Air. With my Airport Extreme router they couldn't get above 350, with my new Eero router I get 600mbps line-of-site speeds connected with the 5gHz network.
My modem, the Arris Surfboard SB800, gets 700+mbps and I only pay for 600 form Comcast, so I'm happy.
I just ordered this one:
Linksys WiFi 6 Router, Dual-Band, 3,000 Sq. ft Coverage, 40+ Devices, Speeds up to (AX1800) 1.8Gbps - E7352-AMZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B2W4JS7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_DBKMMRTWSDVHMFSH25KF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It has to be better than the gateway
I was having the same issue. I use NordVPN but was having constant dropouts when downloading files, ended up manually changing IPv4/IPv6 DNS settings on my modem/router combo to Google Public DNS, and then ultimately to OpenDNS. Both services have IPv4 and IPv6 addresses to use and are a ton more reliable than Comcast default DNS. Haven't had any dropout yet since. Something is not right with Comcast DNS or maybe it is some anti-p2p trigger that goes off and kills or throttles connection to a crawl, but either way switching to a more reliable DNS service fixes it.
Those links are all for DOCSIS 3.0 modems.
The DOCSIS 3.1 modem that enables my 1.1Gbps service is $180 before tax and it doesn't include a router. So there's another hundred bucks or so. It is also the only one with a 2.5 GB Ethernet port like the XB7.
For that price, I can rent for almost two years and break even, and I will get an upgrade when the XB8 comes out. There's a good chance I will change ISPs after one year, so for me, renting makes sense. But even if I were a customer for a few years it would still not be a tremendous burden.
Comcast has helped me troubleshoot my modem even though I own it. Typically troubleshooting consists entirely off turning it off and on again, but sometimes it involves them (Comcast) sending a reset command, which they've been perfectly willing to do.
I don't want to be rude (and apologize if I am) arguing about "this isn't the place" but this is a place where people are commenting constantly about ways to lower their bills. This is a way to lower bills. It seems like a perfectly relevant thing to bring up.
I thought this too. Which is the reason I went ahead and purchased a new modem with the capability to pull 800 mbps and a DOCSIS 3.0. The tech who helped me out the other day told me the modems I had were compatible with the speed and services I am paying for, which is why I'm even more confused.
Just get return that modem as it obviously creates complications and three different answers alone should be a red flag. A brand new modem can be had for under $60 that is approved for Xfinity.
MOTOROLA 16x4 Cable Modem, Model MB7420, 686 Mbps DOCSIS 3.0, Certified by Comcast XFINITY, Charter Spectrum, Time Warner Cable, Cox, BrightHouse, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A1E6BA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_01Y5KWAC6Z1ZQYD2WRDH
the specs on your modem say comcast does not ceritfy this modem to work with anything higher than 400mbps : https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-MT7711-Gigabit-Comcast-Internet/dp/B07GX2ZQXG?th=1 "This product is approved by Comcast for Xfinity Internet and Voice, and recommended by Comcast for XFINITY Internet service speeds up to 400 Mbps."
This is the cord I just got in the mail Amazon Link to Cable.
I have a store a few miles away but I don't have a car, so I can't really go up there..
Could probably call a cab but according to the website the gateway is getting over 1kmbps it's not reaching my computer.
Heather is wrong.
If you want to use MoCa to have Ethernet ports in another room you’ll need a MoCa adapter for that room, but you would only need one, as the XB6 has it built in. As for POE, the XB6 does not have POE, so you would need a POE injector to have POE.
mtr output: https://hastebin.com/geliwoloja
MTR output is there for path info, no loss/latency at the moment of this snapshot. Will try and script up something to gather all this when it happens.
It's also very likely your email was compromised through other means, and now other people are using it. Change your password, secure it with enhanced methods such as two factor authentication if available, and check your email against the https://haveibeenpwned.com database to be certain.
I just did an Ookla Speedtest via both methods:
Via ethernet cable: 232.67 download.
Via WiFi with the router literally touching my laptop: 90.81.
I get it that WiFi is slower, but should it be THIS much slower?
You really don't need a tech. You literally can just use the trail and error method of finding which cable goes where. If you just want to hook up one more outlet, there is a 2 way splitter right there. You could also use a simple cable toner to find what lines go where: https://www.amazon.com/Stanz-Pocket-coaxial-tracker-finder/dp/B01KZ0PL44/ref=sr\_1\_10
Thanks for posting this; hadn't realized they'd continue to mature. Something like this seems like it could be a good choice for folks with no other options, if those speeds are to be believed. I believe one potential downside is that these devices can't be plugged into surge protectors or UPS units, and need to go direct to the wall to work. Not sure there's huge risk here, as the fried device due to a surge might only be this unit itself, but I wouldn't plug anything important downstream in its built-in electric outlet.
Fast.com yielded me 400Mbps down, 43Mbps up, 15ms unloaded, 26ms loaded.
dslreports gave me 281Mbps down, 42Mbps up.
I'm not sure where or if I can adjust the down/up on the xFi Gateway, I no longer have my own modems.
I'm seeing similar. Interestingly, I can get a tad more on fast.com by tunneling via one of my own servers. Generally, my connection is slow at the moment, though, due to routing changing to some circuitous routing overnight. I can pull 200-300Mbps from my servers using my Xfinity connection rather than the usual 700-900Mbps, for example. Also after the routing issue (noticed due to considerably more latency, so I started comparing current vs. last week's traceroutes), my Xfinity speedtests are at 500-650Mbps rather than maxing out GigE.
As suspected, with no changes to my LAN setup at all, seeing much better numbers now that it is past midnight. Still not as good as before, but a huge difference to earlier today.
Look at this garbage I'm seeing right now - middle of workday. Keep in mind this is a gigabit connection that usually spec'ed at 950/45.
And look at this ping trash.
I'm back using my normal router config, which is limited to 1000, so currently it is negotiated at 1000. I actually didn't check that the modem/PC negotiated at 2.5gbps, but I'm not in the ballpark of it mattering, yet.
I was previously using rather old 5e cables and have tried a few different ones. The cable made no difference. All cables gave the same result.
My understanding of cat8 is that it is perfectly backwards compatible, just overkill for home networks... and might have lower a theoretical distance limit. It's funny, it you google it, you find plenty of claims both ways.
The one I got says it is compatible: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLXC6QR?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I want to recommend this product at Amazon
UGREEN Ethernet Adapter USB 2.0 to 10 100 Network RJ45 LAN Wired Adapter Compatible with Nintendo Switch Wii Wii U MacBook Chromebook Windows Mac OS Surface Linux ASIX AX88772A Chipset Black
by UGREEN GROUP LIMITED
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_QWDZXQWAKPR5QRATVH79
Run Ethernet cable from this adapter on your Wii to one of the LAN ports on your Comcast gateway.
The TV very very likely has HDMI ARC or Toslink stereo out, both are easy to convert to Line Analog Out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFLLFX6/
Then, all audio going to the TV would also be directed to the headphones.
I used to use fast.com periodically with Xfinity Gig and would get 600-800Mbps depending on the time of day. As of late I am also pegged at 220-290 Mbps. It does seem like Xfinity has throttled my connectivity to the Netflix network and the initial quality of streams on wired devices has been apparent.
That only tests the link between the modem and an xfinity server which would be the fastest possible speed. If they're going to throttle it would be done after their server.
I use https://fast.com for speed testing which is hosted on Netflix servers. I then compare it to comcast speed check: https://speedtest.xfinity.com/
I told you why in the OP.. my actual download speeds from different apps and different servers are more in line with 220Mbps than 960Mbps.. and after reading reviews it says fast.com will determine parity and if you are being throttled. I was just curious more than anything and hoping i'm not overpaying for services i'm not actually receiving.
fast.com isn't accurate at all, i don't know why you'd suggest that site.. I've went to 5 different bandwidth test, all of them have me over 920 Mbps, fast has me at 250 Mbps lol. And that's not even remotely close.
do you realize that the PS4 is speed testing from THEIR servers? their servers are probably congested or something. why tf would anyone use their servers, use like fast.com or speedteset.net
So fast.com just told me I had 280mbs. I checked on my routers speed test and on speedtest.net and on Comcasts speed test and they hit around 940mbs. Did you try other speed test?
Be glad.. I have a docsis 3.1 certified by xfinity cable modem. and I pay for 175 mbps down and I don't even get it.
I don't necessarily mean weakened equipment on the customer's side, there could be network issues in the area that Comcast has not addressed yet. Certain issues can be difficult for a cable company to track down, especially things like RF noise leaking from neighbors lines. You just need to stay on it and keep providing them with information and hopefully someone can help you. I just recently left another cable company (not Comcast) because they couldn't fix their problems.
If one single fact can put down your conspiracy theory, I have Comcast's Gigabit Pro fiber. It's 9PM for me right now and I'm getting my full 2 gig. https://www.speedtest.net/result/8836023910.png
Comcast would save much more bandwidth by just not providing me with my connection than they'd save by cutting off a few 100Mb residential cable plans.
Your upstream signal levels are low. I would add a 6dB attenuator (below example) at the modem's input so the modem operates in a better US power range. This may help with reducing resets
PPC FPA6-54 Forward Path Attenuator 6dB 75 Ohms for DOCSIS Cable TV Box and Modem https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07882H96R/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_F3GBY3FJBDBR089PA2NG
I see you’ve used Hulu and DIRECTVNOW in the past. If sports is really important to you, you should check out PlayStation Vue. It has sports channels and most of the cable channels for only $49.99/month. And you don’t need a PlayStation console to use it. It works on Roku and other streaming devices.
dig is built in on most *nix machines, and you don't even need to change your DNS to test different providers.
You can use it like this.
dig @184.108.40.206 testsite1.com
dig @220.127.116.11 testsite1.com
dig @18.104.22.168 testsite1.com
dig @22.214.171.124 testsite1.com
If you're on Windows, you can install dig or use a little performance measuring tool like this, which makes things easy.
The Home app is also compatible with Android 6 or higher. If you have an Android phone or tablet you should be able to download the app from the Google Play store. If you do not have an Android phone or tablet, then a cheap Android tablet should do fine. As a last resort you could look in to Bluestacks, which allows one to run Android apps on Windows.
Looks like they are also on AndroidTV and FireTV.
I've had this setup for about 3 years and have saved at least $30-40/mo this way.
For a free DVR, I use Plex.
In addition to all of this I also have Netflix, Hulu and Amazon so I'm able to pretty much get the most bang for my buck.
When you say IP, do you mean IP address? When you say random IP, do you mean line 8 in your output?
If so, the answer is yes. Just go to any online tracert tool and see for yourself. This is what happens:
For an explanation of what's happening:
comcast is an internet connection provider... not an email client... just putting a server on the internet, doesn't make it "work"... DNS (domain name service) is the phone book of the internet... if your DNS records are wrong, your messages don't goto the right place... DNS MX records are email routes... DNS A records are for websites... there are network tools throughout the internet to help troubleshoot these kinds of issues...
this is a common tool... if you enter your domain: tellwut.com ... it will verify or troubleshoot issues with routing... check it out for yourself... your domain is not setup correctly... when people don't setup network servers correctly, that's when viruses get in... that's when people have issues... so before you start spouting comments that everyone is blocking your "stuff", you should really understand what you're saying...
anyway, let your tech guys know they have issues with their domain DNS records... until that's fixed, you are likely to have problems...
Instead of pinging, run an MTR using a tool like WinMTR. https://sourceforge.net/projects/winmtr/
Do this during a good time and a bad time, and then there will be some information to compare.
Packet loss can start anywhere, so WinMTR will help to decide how close to your house the issue is starting. (i.e., are you dropping to hop 1, does it start at the 5th hop away, etc)
If you're able to collect some MTR data and post here, the community can help diagnose further where the issue is originating. If it's originating close to your end, then I'd check things like modem signal levels.
I'm not sure why it happens at the first hop which would normally mean local issues. It happens before it even gets to our servers. You say you have tried a different PC as well as ethernet cord?
This may help as well.
Based on the information here the first hop is your modem. Some of those modems have issues which is why i suggested that. As i stated before you have a device or system issue. Maybe some others can help you from here.
if you have a Mac laptop you can use this little app that tracks your data usage in real time
How to Monitor Your Internet Bandwidth Usage in macOS - Simple Help
if you use windows
NetWorx : bandwidth monitor, connection speed test, data usage log (softperfect.com)
Technicolor, friend had the same as well. I've tested the same before, bridge mode, reboot, and actually used the Xfinity speedtest, fast.com, and speedtest.net, all three show a max of 600Mbit after swapping it.
Re-testing now with the site provided, a max of 685 down and 41 up, (which still seems like it's an artificial limit, since it won't go past it).
Some more gateway info:
Core quad core [email protected] 2Ghz, that short of a distance it wouldn't matter the cable type, but it was cat6 on Windows 10 with ssd. As stated in original post, same speeds whether connected directly to the modem or through router.
Same laptop I used to see full speeds with and also tested with other workstations. Same speed results.
Using Comcast original speed test and new speed test, fast.com, and speedtest.net.
If you're looking to do some self diagnosing or provide more detail you can start by grabbing a screenshot of your signal levels.
Run the following in cmd/powershell
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 10.13.13.112
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 10.13.13.1
Grab the gateway IP and type it in to your favorite web browser. Depending on the type of modem you have, the signals will be listed in different areas. Comcast modems have it listed in Connection > Comcast Network. Look for measurements of the channels in dBmv. There's 2 spots to check, Upstream Power and Downstream power. Get a Screenshot of these and post back here.
Move onto the Error Log. See whats being mentioned there.
Last but not least, run some speed test. I Personally recommend fast.com but a lot of xfinity techs will want you to use speedtest.xfinity.com, either works.
I know that I can cast from my PC to my dumb TV via Roku 3. For anime, it works without a hitch. I'm not sure that Zoom would even work smoothly if at all.
These articles may help.
I attached a screenshot. Its down to slower than my upload. The Xfinity tests shows faster about 150Mbps which kinda matches another site also but to California. Weird how the speedof.me is testing to seattle as well as your xfinity site but both very different. but still way below what it should be. looks like things are picking up. Is there an issue in Washington state maybe?
Thank you for the advice. I've tried the xfinity test and speedof.me and just now ran the Ookla test. Speed crept up into the 50s later at night, but is still consistently low. I am currently using a cat6 cable and modem rated for 1gb hardwired.
You likely have one if a tech has been at the house in the last 4/5 years. If not, these will work. And you’ll want it on the ground block in the box outside, or the input of the first splitter.
never heard of this, im looking into it now. Right now the xfinity service comes in from the telephone-pole to the house where it then splits into two lines. 1 line goes to the far end of the house, and the other line enters right there at the other side.
would something like this work? Or should I be looking at a different adapter?
Killer Product 2.5gbps Adapter if you want USB C Connection
Asus 2.5gbps Adapter If You Want USB Type A
Here you go. Either of these will work. I'd personally recommend the putty, it doesn't harden so can be reformed/removed easily for later work/repairs.
Ideal Industries 31-601 Duct Seal 1 lb Dark Putty Gray https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00TEB2QAS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_WR9Y4QBAN4XKCBQS8TBY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Would suggest getting 2 of the putty in case 1lb isn't enough, can always return the unused one if you don't need it.
Great Stuff expanding foam: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GREAT-STUFF-16-oz-Gaps-and-Cracks-Insulating-Foam-Sealant-with-Quick-Stop-Straw-99053937/206977048
The great stuff foam is really messy if you don't know what you are doing, definitely watch YouTube videos on great stuff foam before using if you choose to go that route. And wear gloves! You'll want to get it from your local home depot or other hardware store.
Also - for identifying which coax cable goes where, you can get this tool. It comes with 4 colored ends and a little battery operated tool. You would connect the colored ends to the coax jacks where you suspect the lines are going. Then, outside, disconnect all the coax wires from the splitter(s) and use the tool along with the little coupler adapter it comes with to identify which wire goes where. The color will light up corresponding to which colored end the wire is going to.
Sorry if this is confusing, the Amazon page has a video that explains how it works.
Klein Tools VDV512-101 Explorer 2 Coax Tester Kit, Includes Cable Tester / Wire Tracer / Coax Mapper with Remotes to Test up to 4 Locations https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076DP1534/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_Y9BEPTBA8YD0K64Z0AK0
Thanks for the reply. Would something like this be able to provide wifi in addition to the gateway if used as a access point? https://www.amazon.com/MikroTik-RBD52G-5HacD2HnD-TC-Dual-Concurrent-802-11a-Ethernet/dp/B079SD8NVQ/ref
I think it would appear as another wifi network right?
Again, there is nothing that will prevent 100% a surge coming in, even via the coax cable line. What comcast usually installs is a basic ground that is per code but I always replace them with a lightning surge protector as I'm in central FL as we get a ton of lightning.
Something like this or another gas tube surge protector: https://www.amazon.com/TII-Broadband-Satellite-Lightning-Protector/dp/B0016AIYU6/ref=sr\_1\_9?dchild=1&keywords=coax+lightning+surge&qid=1628627322&sr=8-9
The fan on the XB7 is on a thermostat. It only kicks on when it's hot. FWIW I have mine sitting on a fan. I do the same with my router. Heat is the enemy.
Netgear CM2000 to Mikrotik CCR1036-8G-2S+EM and a FLYPROFiber 10GBase-T SFP+ to RJ45 for MikroTik which also supports 2.5Gbps. From the router, I have a Mikrotik 10G/40G switch for distribution. No issues.
>I used the SFP+ WAN port with a RJ45 transceiver connected to the XB7 orange port in bridge mode.
>The other SFP+ port is connected to a switch for LAN.
Did you set the WAN2 port on UDMP to 10G? I mean are you able to negotiate to XB7 orange port at 2.5G. what about the speed test? getting full 1.2Gbps with SFP+ WAN port?
I just tested my XB7 orange port with Google wifi and it's working. Earlier I thought in the bridge mode only XB7 port1 is enabled. Now going to order SFP+-RJ45 module for UDMP.
I used the SFP+ WAN port with a RJ45 transceiver connected to the XB7 orange port in bridge mode.
The other SFP+ port is connected to a switch for LAN.
As far as I know, there is no tool for testing the splitter. Do you actually need the splitter(are you using another cable outlet), if not I'd replace it with a barrel so it's straight through to your modem.
Not actually sure, but I typically use this guide for information on ideal signal levels.
Your coax system is bonded to your home's electrical system - the idea is to equalize the electrical potential between the coax system and the electrical system. It's possible a poor bond could contribute to poor performance in surge protection, although surge protection is not its primary function. Even a properly bonded coax line is poor at lightning resistance.
I use an arrestor specifically designed for lighting protection. They need to be replaced occasionally. https://www.amazon.com/TII-Broadband-Satellite-Lightning-Protector/dp/B0016AIYU6/ref=sr\_1\_8
Limited-time deal: TP-Link 16 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch, Desktop/ Wall-Mount, Fanless, Sturdy Metal w/ Shielded Ports, Traffic Optimization, Unmanaged, Limited Lifetime Protection (TL-SG116) Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GR9S6FN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HRAZ8RB9P51TJ66GVNDR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I can’t seem to link directly to my purchased item.
The AX89X g as 2 10gb Ports one can be used for Wan the other for Lan.
you need one of these because one of the ports are fiber connection. My router has 2 10gb ports one ethernet connection and using a fiber to ethernet converter. My modem is the Net Gear CM-2000, it has a 2.5gb port.
The confusion was about GIG/Fiber in the title.
I also run a UDM Pro with the 1.2Gbps service. I use this transceiver connected to the 2.5Gbps port on the modem with a regular CAT6 cable.
SFP is a type of port typically found in professional networking equipment. This is a 10G SFP+ RJ45 adapter. RJ45 is the name of the port that you plug a CAT6/ethernet cable into. This adapter allows you to plus a CAT6 cable into the SFP+ port in the ASUS RT-AX89X AX6000 router.
Just noting that I can see exactly this kind of packet sold on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Generation-Compatible-iPencil-Protector/dp/B08SJ7PJFY/
Never having used an Apple Pencil, I had no idea these kind of tips and covers where a thing. Many thanks - I've learned something new!
This one. All I had was a few ratty old cat 5's that had seen better days so I ordered two of that one, mainly for the look. But also for the higher bandwidth.
My friend who is a sales supervisor told me my order may not have closed yet and the speeds might not have kicked in. So I should test again.
Place the modem behind another splitter or replace the one you have with one that has -7db. These are used by Comcast. It has two -7 and a 3.5 out. I would just replace the existing with this one. Antronix CMC2003H-A 3-Way Horizontal Splitter -3.5dB -7dB 5-1002 MHz High Performance for Coax Cable TV & Internet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T3H3XGH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PD45ADBZA8XYRXHK3V5D
CM2050V did the trick with me, I got the Xfinity 1.2Gbps/35Mbps package and wanted to be able to take advantage of full speed without gigabit limiting. I got a Wiitek Wiitek SFP+ to RJ45 Transceiver and put it in my Ubiquiti UDM Pro that I have uplinked to a 10GB switch and I'm pulling 1.3-1.4Gbps on download tests.
I have MoCa at my house so maybe I can help but first a few questions:
1) Do you have Xfinity X1 cable TV service? If so there are some tweaks you may need to keep MoCa from interfering with the X1 service
2) Is the existing splitter a MOCA compatible splitter? Is it actually a passive splitter or is it some kind of Amp? Is this what the previous owner left? In order to be MoCa compatible it should have a bandwidth to 2Ghz. If the splitter only goes to 1Ghz then its not Compatible with MoCa
3) Do you have a MoCa filter installed between the splitter and the wire coming in? If not you really need one.
1) Since this is an existing setup I would make sure to have a MoCa compatible unity-gain amp terminating the cable into the house. The one I use is Out of Stock at Amazon but the important points to look for:
A: MoCA compatable (BW to 2Ghz)
B: Unity Gain meaning each port gets the exact same signal strength as the input
c: MoCa filter at the input to prevent your signal leaking to your neighbors
2) With a unity gain amp on the incoming cable you can use MoCa compatible splitters at the far ends if you need to have both cable TV and MoCa off the same coax without worring about not having a hot enough signal due to multiple passive splitters
With this setup one port connects to cable modem, one port connects to MoCa adapter which connects to your home router/Cable Modem and one port connects to the other piece of coax going to the MoCa adapter at the far end.