You need a tool that crimps the dupont connectors onto the wire.
This isn't usually something done by a cable alone, what you're looking for is a Audio Mixer, think a mini version of a recording booth panel that takes multiple sources and merges the signals.
Something like this but in stock: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0824Q3WY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_ZBJDK946WH7DE5EXWEK8
Depends on what input / outputs you need. I've never needed one so can't be more help than just pointing you in the right direction.
Voice going to the PC might be a seperate issue. A seperate cheaper standalone mic could work.
This eventually won't be a problem though. Sony just announced a major investment into Discord, and Discord will be intergrated into the PS Operating System next year. Until then a mixers probably your best bet.
Looks to be a 24awg you can pick up a bit on amazon for pretty cheap maybe even a better price then I've linked here if you look a minute .. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089CQZ33N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_DyhYFbFN94M20?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This but a right angle for the 3.5mm, right?
If that’s what you’re after, what I would do is buy one of those cables and then either a) buy a 3.5mm right angle adapter or b) buy a 3.5mm right angle cable and cut the end off, then Frankenstein the two cables together.
Lightning-to-aux cables/dongles appear to have an IC on the lightning side.
Did you try googling it first?
Read the description closely, this will only work with USB-C devices that support USB-C PD 12VDC output
Blind SPOT - USB to 12V Adapter - 12 Volt DC Power Cable - Use Any PD USBC Power Bank to Power Any 12V Device - Turn Your Power Bank into a 12 Volt Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CCX5S96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DS4EAMYCE84Q550CB1ZR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B1NVUYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Prs9Fb8W78RA0
I've used something like this before for coax. I was able to adjust the depth it would strip at to get through the multiple layers.
Honestly, your probably better off (financially) buying one. I bought this cable with MMCX connector, (the sell other connectors under "size") and it's been good. Doesn't tangle and for the price I can replace it or solder new connectors to it. Here is a cable I made early in the pandemic. Too a while to braid since it's 4ft long and 8 wires. Had to learn via YouTube. The soldering was the easy part.
On a quick search I found this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P684PVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_4OXVFbSHCXVG6
It has good reviews and will add a lot of versatility to your setup. I have not heard of the brand so I can't speak to the build quality.
I normally deal with commercial products that can support multiple outputs. Sometimes 8 channels for sound reinforcement or background music.
A/V installer here.. Hopefully you haven't tuned out of this post but I would like to help you.
What you have is a good speaker by the looks of it. Pyle is a good brand and the wattage capabilities are considerable.
You have the right idea but are missing the amplifier. I have sourced one that meets the minimum requirements for this speaker. Link below.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787BRQ2F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_V9OVFbE7KJAQ9
Read the product page to help you understand the capabilities and features of this amp as well as setup. But to paraphrase, you will simply plug in a "aux" cable into the mp3 port at the back of the amp and then to your phone/player. Then connect the amplifier to the speaker using the speaker cable in the picture you posted after removing it from the adapter.
Be sure to check polarity of the speaker output/inputs. Positive(+) to positive(+) and negative(-) to negative(-).
Please comment if there is more information you would like to know. I enjoy seeing people achieve their a/v dreams.
Antrader 3.5mm/1/8 Stereo Male Plug Audio Cable Connector w/Spring Coax Cable Audio Solder Adapter Pack of 12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMY61H3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_G-9gFbG2ME3W4
Or if you want to over compensate Cuziss 5pcs 3.5mm (1/8inches) Stereo Audio Male to AV 3-Screw Terminal Female Phoenix Adapter Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWK3G1L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mb-gFbTZND52W
I have this V-MODA BoomPro plus 3.5 female to 2.5 male but I’m certain you’re looking for a different way to connect.
Amazon for the Sennheiser connectors
Amphenol 1/4”
Eidolic Y splitter (had to bore out the two small holes. Couldn’t fit the sleeved cables
Honestly, after struggling too much with other suppliers and getting sent some low quality stuff, I just searched them up on Amazon!
Converted my DT 770 Pro's to use a 4-pin mini XLR connector and made this short balanced cable for strapping a Qudelix 5k on the headband. It's based on this cable, with a Rean RT4FC-B mini XLR connector on the end.
It was a tight fit to get that cable in the Rean connector, but it worked out. To anyone else thinking of doing something like this, just know this cable uses enamel coated copper wires, so you'll have to burn/scrape the enamel off before you can solder it. And protip for sliding the rubber boot onto the cable: heatshrink the cut end of the cable to hold everything together, and then shove that through.
That works perfect if that's all you have.
AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 4 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_HRB2JY6Q98RPF0XKQJF5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have used a few of these for different set ups. Works great.
> I also ordered the solder from performance audio. Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37. I don't have anything to compare I against but worked great for me.
"Audio grade" solder is a bit of a myth, that Kester Solder you've got is probably just as good as anything else. If you're really concerned (or want a solder with a lower melting point), try something like Loctite 362 which has 2% silver. https://www.newark.com/multicore-loctite/362-60en-5c-0-9mm-r-250g/solder-wire-60-40-sn-pb-180-c/dp/00Z1630
Thanks for the tips! BTW, I use one of these guys for straightening out my (small guage) wires. It's made for jewelry and fishing wire, but works great on solid and stranded electrical wire as well.
P.s. I apologize for the list.
9V battery with two wires.
Light bulb or buzzer in line on one of the wires.
$6 model on Amazon if you don't have parts in your junk drawer
You are using this to verify your connections were made properly.
Example:
2.5mm Tip = R-
Touch one end of your tester to R- on the headphone end of your new cable, other end of tester to the tip of the 2.5mm connector. If it lights up or buzzes, this confirms a good connection. Slide the tester along the other parts of the 2.5mm connector. It should not light up as those should not be connected to R-
They sell terminal removal tool/ keys. They slide under and unlock it so you can slide them out
MENKEY Terminal Removal Tool Kit for Car, 39 Pieces Wire Connector Pin Release Key Extractor Tools Set for Most Connector Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZC1V2W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GBXJ2W73RGJZGDT5CNRV
I have remade cables, when certain proprietary connectors were not available. It can be done.
It is however not something I recommend to anyone.
The wiring used in those mass produced cables are extremely fragile.
The wires are also coated, making them more difficult to solder.
I would recommend making or buying a custom cable that meets your taste (minus the microphone). and adding a ModMic Wireless
Or just using the one with the microphone when you need it.
So strangely enough, this image of a hair twister illustrates the concept really well. (third image in the link)
In step 3 you see the strands twisting individually clockwise, then in step 4 they twist counter clockwise together. An industrial wire twisting machine would do these steps simultaneously and give you one clockwise twist for each counterclockwise twist.
If that hair twister gave you an even number of clockwise and counter clockwise rotations it would make a really great wire twister, but as it's only designed for a few feet at a time they didn't make it like that. Unfortunate, it would make for an otherwise cheap tool.
Thanks! I was planning on building a keyboard soon with these keycaps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08X4TTMKR/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2D2ZUZD9IEPI6&psc=1
I decided that I would start by making a matching cable for my headphones to bring the whole theme together.
Thanks for the info, I actually have a roll of 37/63 solder somewhere around here and I have a heat adjustable soldering iron..but I feel like it is a piece of junk? This is the kit that I bought a while back so I should have most of the things you mentioned.
https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M?ref_=ast_sto_dp
I also bought a helping hands tool but I haven't soldered anything since I bought it. I have high hopes for it though because it's extremely frustrating to solder without it. I had to fix some broken pigtail connectors on a car. While it worked in a pinch, the solder job was ugly as hell and thick/globby. I will have to practice a bunch before I actually try to make a cable.
Oh no wonder you are having issues, 2.5mm balanced is a pain in the ass. I don't know what soldering iron you're using, but try finding the thinnest tip possible. I got a set here for the Weller WE1010 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ARYBXLI/ , the narrow ones work great for 2.5mm.
The one I had in mind was this. It seems half decent for a first try. I do have soldering equipment, and some experience. For example, I spent a good week fixing my kids bubble machine this summer.
Do you have any suggestions for where I can buy these parts from?
Reans, agreed. I've bought them from B&H and PartsExpress in the past. I've seen similar clones on Amazon - these are really close (I've used similar for HiFiMAN cables, but 2.5, not 3.5mm: https://smile.amazon.com/DCFun-Headphone-Replacement-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07BMP7L5L
Just buy a multimeter. You turn it to the speaker icon, which emits a tone when you’ve got a solid connection. Touch the probes to each corresponding end of your cable/pin/ring/sleeve etc and if you hear a tone, you’ve soldiered correctly.
AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Voltage Tester Meter Continuity Test (Dual Fused for Anti-Burn) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_5w85FbEFJNDSX
As others have said, you need some sort of amplifier because the phone is sending what’s called a “line level” signal.
Get something like this: Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition Original Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_F9TVFbBYXA2BE
That takes the line level signal from your phone, amplifies it, and sends it to the speaker(s).
Thanks for your reply, I'll look into the app control modifier for sure. As for the mic, I would like that to remain on the headphone cable, but the controls might need to get separated. I was even thinking this could be an in-line plug in module type thing that could be detached when in "normal" use, then added for garage glove use. Something like the link below but not bluetooth.
​
I was looking for a USB-C board that had a right channel, left channel, and ground that I could solder to and wasn't huge and ugly, those are about the only things I was looking for :) The one I linked was the only one I could find online really.
At first I got a USB-C to 3.5 dongle (like this), cut it open, stripped the wires and tried to solder them together, but I couldn't get it to work for some reason. After that failed, I settled on this guy and it worked for me.
Sorry, thought I added the link but didn't. Here it is. The listing is generic. Never expected them to be labeled like they were. Your color may be random too. I thought they'd look like the pics.
Thanks, I used this wire. Each color is a signal wire, along with one grey wire for each side. The other 2 grey wires are grounds, one to each ear. A single 26G wire each would be plenty for both signal and ground to each ear, but I wanted a chunkier cable for these chunky cans :)
I picked up a set of these from Shure:
They fit the M50x’s perfectly and I think they’re far more comfortable. Well worth the investment!
I use a Hakko FX888D and I love it. Super solid and just feels nice to use. I got mine on amazon on sale with an extra 5 tips too, not sure if that deal still exists but this gets my vote.
Edit: Here’s that bundle I was talking about. I got it on sale, I know I didn’t pay $136 for it but even still that’s a fantastic price for this.
Hello! I am pleased to tell you that an adapter sold by us on Amazon may cater your need, it was designed to combining 2 lapel mics to record into their own L/R channel, left mic recording on the left channel, and right mic recording on the right channel, just works as what you described. With the design of USB Type C connector, you can input two signals into Type C devices separately. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Microphone-Plantronics-Sennheiser-Compatible/dp/B0825118DR/ref=sr_1_7?m=A2EDEOL32PF03V&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid=1583919251&s=merchant-items&sr=1-7&th=1
Should you have any problem or feedback, please feel free to contact us via mail([email protected]), we 'd love to hearing from you!