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If you can send it back, just do so and go with an ACDelco. It already has the eyelet and is the correct length. Check your year/model, but this one works on mine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAZDL5F/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_WC3HFb4RPPAQX
I would be really shocked if it wasn’t a 3/8” plug. I promise I’m not trying to be rude, but are you sure you weren’t trying a 1/2” and you thought it was 3/8”? Again not trying to talk shit just trying to help, but I think it’s a 3/8. I can go check on my dads truck in a min to verify
Edit; just checked for you and it’s def not 3/8.
Edit 2: try these: Grey Pneumatic (1211P 3/8" Drive 11-Piece Pipe Plug Socket Set
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SWGG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MqHHFbBBQCGY5
I went with a kit from Amazon. Headlight Assembly Compatible with Chevy 94-98 C/K C/10 1500 2500 3500/92-99 Tahoe / 94-98 Suburban/Silverado Headlamps with Corner & Bumper Lights (C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J7WFBFZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_usVp76TOk3egJ
Dude. Auto skills is the best kept secret.
I have (what I just discovered to be) a discontinued socket set from Industro. They have metric/standard sockets with a nice ratchet. I've used mine to do literally everything, probably somewhere around 15 engine swaps and have had them for 8-10 years. The ratchet died about 2 years ago, so I got a harbor freight one to drop in it's place.
https://www.amazon.com/41pc-Drive-Indo-Socket-Set/dp/B002TR9M6K
That's the only thing I can find comparable, and what I'd buy if I wanted a "keep in the truck" set of tools.
Updated spider
From a comment: "OEM quality. This is just the one you need to replace your existing, failure prone, CSFI fuel injection on your GM V8 Vortec engine to more modern, reliable, and better performing MPFI. Do a search on "Vortec CSFI to MPFI conversion" for details on this. I can say that my truck runs better in every way. Easier starting, better throttle response, more power, and improved fuel economy. GM designed this piece as an upgrade to the older, failure prone poppet valve CFSI design and it's well worth it.
Keep in mind that replacing this is not a job for beginners. It will take a decent set of hand tools, and some auto-repair experience. TIP: You can do this without pulling your distributor like some guides and video suggest. Leave it in or you'll have to re-time the distributor which is a real PITA in these trucks without a Tech2 scan tool or similar."
I ended up buying this on Amazon. It's ridiculously expensive for what it is at $30, but the quality is top notch and it snaps right in. Good alternative to a trip to the junkyard.
Vertical AW-CPGM01 OEM Console Cup Holder Pocket for GMC-Chevrolet 1995-99 Vehicles
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8BIQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In your video I cannot tell if your front diff is completely put together, if it is you should have much more resistance spinning the yoke. There is a procedure to check the preload but requires a special torque wrench.
For that differential it’s almost not worth it when used ones in good condition can be had for cheap. It’s more than likely the pinion or carrier bearing that is shot. Also you need to set the back lash and you’ll need a dial indicator for that and need to check pinion and ring gear mesh with gear paint. Failing to due all this will result it premature axle failure.
I went with Marsauto LED bulbs for my 1998 C1500. They put out at least twice as much light compared to any SYLVANIA halogen bulbs.
Low Beams: Marsauto 9006 LED Bulbs 6000K, 600% Brightness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L3YF1T
High Beams: Marsauto 9005 LED Bulbs 6000K, 600% Brightness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L49N9P
I recently put some LED headlights in my 98 Silverado. Night and day difference compared to old Halogen bulbs. I do have aftermarket clear headlight housing kit i purchased off ebay.
- Low Beams: Marsauto 9006 LED Bulbs 6000K
- High Beams: Marsauto 9005 LED Bulbs 6000K
Image of Sealed Beam headlights. If your truck has them, these bulbs won't work.
This is the headlight kit i purchased. The only issue with this kit, the corner marker with no bulb in it needs to be sealed with super glue to help avoid moister getting inside it.
I bought this for my center console. One of the best mods I made.
you'll be surprised how much energy things take to run.
you probably drew your battery down too deep, starter batteries really hate that.
your 2nd battery should be a deep cycle type, the best readily available type are marketed "marine trolling"
adding battery capacity, changing audio amps or eliminating your inverter use (DC fridge, fans) can improve your run time.
you should get a "battery meter" to help you understand your energy use. shunt based example or hall effect based example
Thanks, I got them off Amazon a while back. That are pretty bright! https://www.amazon.com/VehiCode-Replacement-Interior-Headlight-Landscape/dp/B08FHZDLQC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1K3TAM6U7EETH&keywords=vehicode+67+led&qid=1656872297&sprefix=vehicode+67+le%2Caps%2C487&sr=8-4
I went the Bluetooth Cassette adapter route as it was simple and cheap. Sound quality is good. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089QWHVZX?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_H97AWDNRFJHTM9QX7YCP
If you are handy with electronics, you can try this. https://youtu.be/MtcmFqe9X68
Dorman 38433 Front Upper Door Hinge Roller Pin Compatible with Select Cadillac / Chevrolet / GMC Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COB5KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZNFXVZ9586A0FZ4DADX0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought two of these, haven’t put them in yet. Should get ya started in the right direction.
Theres a ton now that I'm searching mechanical ones for $600. This is the electric one I mentioned earlier. Looks like you might possibly have to upgrade alternator and/or dual battery and you'd be riding in style. Hobestly better than the old compressor on my 90 that sucks a bunch of HP off going up hill
They're just a cheapo set of warning lights I found on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083GCLQZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I cut up the wiring a bit to put an illuminated toggle switch in my dash to turn them on and off, and I just have the controller and mode button zip-tied under the dash so I can reach the button if I ever wanted to change flash modes.
Hard to tell from just the one picture. I can tell you are under the dash so I would guess it goes to the blend door switch right there. should be bolted right where your hand is, if it's missing they look like this:
If all you're wanting to do is look at engine RPM, you should consider just adding an aftermarket tachometer. They're like 3 or 4 wires and a hose clamp to install. Pretty cheap and just take a signal from the coil.
This is a middle price one, but I've seen them for like 15$.
Actron SP0F000025 Bosch Sport II 2-5/8" Tachometer (Black Dial Face, Black Bezel) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00UM9WWBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_RDVB0NGBS9484CBPR2K1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Looking at getting a set of these. Otherwise I'm leaning towards a set from LMC since nobody else seems to offer a complete set of decent quality. Heard a lot of horror stories about the bushings in Dorman's kit lol
I'm gonna give this one a shot: https://www.amazon.com/TCI-278011-Chrome-Plated-Transmission-4L80E/dp/B019XF60LA/ref=sr_1_4?crid=QQPD7A96C6YV&keywords=4l80e+pan&qid=1645490208&sprefix=4l80e+pan%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-4
It seems to have the pre '96 shape, AND a drain plug at not too high of a cost.
Car Insulation - 4' x 10' Roll (40 Sqft) Sound Deadener & Heat Barrier Mat - Automotive Lightweight Thermal Insulation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016QUS1YE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_5VAAXJY2SSWDX4BKDBBP
[insulation](www.amazon.com/dp/B016QUS1YE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_Y350DZH0WVC5GVFPAAZD)
Would something like this hold up for the interior side? Seen some ppl say it’s good for like 200 or so degrees? Not sure how hot the floor pan gets above the cats
I was actually using a spring compressor, but it kept slipping off which was super sketchy. It’s one of these: 648628 Coil Sprng Compressor Kit,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028QGTHM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
After adding in the LEDs I will say it was much brighter. Like at least 2x the visibility. They are not blindingly bright either, but now I feel confident that I would be able to dodge just about anything on the road. The clear lower turn signals are also very bright & don’t need the frosted lenses to be seen if you use LEDs. If you like the look of the frosted lenses I would get a new housing using that style, but I liked the other clear style so I ordered those
Upper pair:
VIPMOTOZ Glass Lens Headlight Headlamp Assembly For 1988-1999 Chevy & GMC C/K Suburban Blazer 1500 2500 3500 - Metallic Chrome Housing, Driver and Passenger Side https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0736BYD37/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_TX1TV961XZHKQN4A8FE6
Lower turn signals:
Anzo USA 511033 Chevrolet Black Parking Light Assembly - (Sold in Pairs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038B491E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_KMZ7CWDPYP8Q6DZ97P3S?psc=1
1998? I hate to Yuk someone else's Yum, but this is one trend, I really was glad to see die. These are a bit of a safety concern too, as they have no red reflective material at the rear of the vehicle. Maybe go for something like this instead? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TP4N97S/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_2HDMZ4D2WT7MRSXDGT5S
Just some Amazon LEDs in oem housings that I cleaned up and buffed.Limited-time deal: SEALIGHT 9005/HB3 9006/HB4 LED Bulbs Combo Package CSP Chips 14000LM 6000K Cool White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K43XKDF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_dl_JG2VQCWWV0W3753H7STJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If your interior color RPO code is 52I, then the color name is “Light Neutral." I’ve been restoring a mess of interior trim pieces on my ‘97. Tried a bunch of different products and colors until I found a ColorBond product that matched perfectly.
I tried the SEM LT Neutral, and also trusted LMC truck with their “saddle”recommendation. Both didn't match.
This is the correct ColorBond color.
Stuff's the real deal - dries super quick and a perfect match. And I mean perfect, like "just spot spray the plastic welded cracks and re-textured spots in the middle of a giant b-pillar trim and you can't even tell" type of match. Super happy with the stuff so far.
Nice job dude!
I literally just bought and installed the Anzo USA 111136 last week.
What light bulbs did you go with? I am thinking about this:
I just did this on my 98. I went with some OEM style knockoffs I found on Amazon. Not as good quality as OEM but much cheaper and it's nice to be able to see where I am driving in the dark. Here is a link to the set I bought. It was around $66 when I purchased them a few weeks ago, looks like they're about $71 now.
I got them from Amazon here. I haven’t had any problems with them shaking. They weren’t the right wiring for mine but I don’t need to adjust often, they have pretty good field of view. I haven’t towed very far with it but they worked well for me.
I’m not well versed on the ECU talk. What keeps you from independently controlling it with a radiator probe or in line water temp sensor? I did the latter with a Camaro twin fan on a 91 c2500 and this controller
Flex-a-lite 31163 Variable Speed Control Module with Threaded Temperature Sensor,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UPYW1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5B3A6VZZKX03WQHEEGRX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Should be this guy
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IYVJOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_9Q9NRJWSYCMD9JE5Q0MA
If you go to a you pull scrap yard, you can probably find all the nuts and covers strewn about most GM trucks. I believe even the 99-06 used the same nuts and covers
Not reading all the comments so just gonna answer from scratch. It's a block heater. If you want to be sure follow the cord and it should end up on the driver side of the block a bit under the exhaust manifold. Here's the style in our blocks if you're interested.
Would always recommend replacing the cord if there's any corrosion; will snake up the power cord, into the heater and could eventually get into your coolant if left long enough. Your cord already has green death
In the middle of this myself right now, also with the 52I interior RPO code for "Light Neutral."
I also tried the SEM LT Neutral, and also trusted LMC truck with their saddle recommendation. Both didn't match.
This is the correct ColorBond color. Stuff's the real deal - dries super quick and a perfect match. And I mean perfect, like "just spot spray the plastic welded cracks and re-textured spots in the middle of a giant b-pillar trim and you can't even tell" type of match. Super happy with the stuff so far.
After welding/re-texturing my repairs, I've been using SuperClean (can't remember the dilution ratio off the top of my head) on the area, scrubbing really well with nylon brush or scrub pad, then wiping it down with some IPA before painting.
the factory CD player will not work. replace it with a dash pocket. See link below for the vehicle specific dash pocket:
I just use one of these from underneath. Makes clearance issues a thing of the past. 30 second job while in under the four an oil change.
Amazon, I ordered them about four years ago. This should be the link to them. Xtune for 1988-1993 Chevy/GMC C/K Series Smoked Headlights + LED Bumper + Corner Lights Pair Left+Right 1989 1990 1991 1992 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019WXMEKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_0kRXFb8KKZTR1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought the truck like this, but I just found this with a simple search on amazon, Premium Fender Flares for 1988-2000 Chevy/GMC C/K Pickup/Blazer/Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon | Smooth Matte Black Paintable Pocket Bolt-Riveted Style 4pc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCW0NEN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qFTIDb7MSBH8Z , they have quite a few options. If you look up ‘k1500 fender flares’ you can browse through them
Yup, that's definitely the worn distributor gear. Having a scan tool that gives you cam retard in degrees will let you set timing. Sometimes you can adjust to compensate for the wear, but it usually needs a new dist. You get the code for cam correlation because the cam sensor is under the dist.
It's worth noting that a worn timing chain can also affect this timing. The stretch combined with the play in the worn gear makes the degrees worse. If you find the cam retard bounces around a little bit after the distributor replacement, that would be the next place to look.
To measure cam retard, I use a decent cheap bluetooth OBD2 reader with an app like dash command or torque pro. Gives you a lot more information at minimal cost.
I suggest use DAP Weldwood Contact Cement. I use a cheap HF Paint gun to spray it with a regulator. I used to work at a car restoration shop and this is what all the upholstery went together with. I've used it many time and it's even holding the carpet in my miniboat that gets completely soaked and it's still holding up. The 3M stuff is OK, but it isn't that great.
Amazon.
KSP 6X5.5 Wheel Spacers for Silverado,2"(50mm) Hubcentric Forged Blue Wheel Adapters,M14x1.5 Thread pitch 78.1mm Hub Bore fit Tahoe Avalanche Express Suburban Sierra Yukon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XKRCNT9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3XfDFbWBR7TPB
Check Amazon, eBay, FB Marketplace or CL. They are under the name: AVS Slots tail light covers. The used to be called Lund Eclipse slotted tail light covers before AVS bought them.
Here is the specific ones shown in the picture above: https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Ventshade-36343-Taillight-1988-1999/dp/B0001EXTYE/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=taillight+cover&pd_rd_r=70ba3f3e-cb41-4113-9037-4e3ee8ca1de6&pd_rd_w=g2MiH&pd_rd_wg=HO2ib&pf_rd_p=314cba8a-9ad7-41b6-886d-7d421b3ca92e&pf_rd_r=XWFBV2TZSE9SXDR7A048&qid=1586798224&s=automotive&sr=1-1&vehicle=1997-47-454------------&vehicleName=1997+Chevrolet+K1500
Hope this helps. :)
steam cleaner works wonders, steam and a rag to clean, a little detail spray to make stuff shine again
AnzoUSA 111299 Black/Clear... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KDMMKAI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I couldn't find a set up for longer travel to do true off roading with the ifs set up on the gmt 400s, a local shop, MEO of Tulsa, helped me with the decision of going SAS after viewing off-road designs page, http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/88-98SolidAxleConversion.htm
I just put in a Tekonsha P3 and really like it. Mounted under the steering wheel by the center vent. Longest part of the install was running the wires to the trailer connection.
https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-90195-Electronic-Brake-Control/dp/B000P17NXQ