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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Laserengraving:
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Inkscape
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Yeah I bought the air pump as the one above and we are using this zip tied to the laser head to direct the flow: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006R9O3HE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I do indeed. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/N-C-Perfect-Motorcycle-Workshop-Scissor/dp/B098RYTS6X/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=motorcycle+scissor+lift&qid=1627313704&sr=8-4
Perfect size for the Ortur LM2 and it's very stable.
Do you have your engraver in an enclosure or in the open?
I built an enclosure for mine and bought one of these to vent the air out. It's pretty good. It's compact, fairly quiet and with my lid closed, it does a good job at moving the air out.
​
If your engraver is in the open then you'll need a different setup. I'm thinking of a big fan pointed out the window. = )
​
Cheers
~Gaz
Depends on what you're engraving and how dark you want it.
There is a spec sheet with reccomended settings that should be in all the downloaded documentation (you can also see it on the amazon page for the laser.)
That's a good place to start.
I purchased mine from Amazon here... Take care in ordering, the slot thickness is usually 4mm but the slot length is not the same between manufacturers.
I purchased a bunch of blanks and ended up cutting the 'tab' that goes into the base, so they would fit... The tab on the blank was longer than the slot in the base... just be aware...
Here's one of my Micky's
Check out the Free Mascot od6+ glasses on Amazon. I have a set that is rated for both 190nm-550nm and 800nm-1100nm Wavelengths. Style 5 for decently over my RX glasses but with the caveat that on the sides I could still get some light in if I turn my head too far. By using these and a decent enclosure I'm fairly confident that I'm protecting my eyes.
Found the ones I have
I was looking at the ones you shared since I will be also wearing a respirator.
I got these for mine, there are a few youtube vids on the process. I did my research and purchase back in 2019 so there may be something better on the market now. Don't forget you can't leave that thing in the freezing cold, there may be water left in the laser unit a bust the glass.
Temperature differences might effect your final product, depending on what material you're using, but should be minimal with a diode. That's more of a fiber laser problem.
Diode lasers are cheap because they skip basic safety measures like being enclosed, so additional ventilation is a must. I use this fan and have the hose out a window, which clears 99% of the smoke and smell. Fumes are no joke, especially if you start cutting wood and engraving tumblers.
Hi Mate, I bought this one, but when I bought it in August it was 40% cheaper. I know it can do cotton, leather, wood, some plastics, cardboard, anodised metal. I can engrave wood in my bedroom and the smell is not strong. It engraves this at 30cmx34cm with great detail. But not the fastest, would take at 9 lines per mm at 3000 mm per min, it take about 2 hours. Does a nice clean line, but now the price has gone up, there might be better for the price.
There ya go. $25 Canadian Nothing fancy, but it will move the air
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8S5XBWP/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A1N2XQP6HU5U57&psc=1
I received a $150 coupon and paid $449 for the 10w laser engraver machine
My frame is a oozenest workbee 750x750mm frame that I bought 2nd hand and came with the motors included. Everything but the z axis is belt driven and it has dual y axis motors.
The Laser is the Laser Tree 24v 10w output power diode laser (as far as I know there's no power difference between the 24v and 12v versions).
My cnc's controller is an arduino UNO running GRBL v1.1 and the cnc's motors drivers are all dm556 stepper motor drivers. I'm not sure if all that's what you meant by the build lol but let me know if you have any other questions
I've used the Lowes plywood. Works but is inconsistent in the glue distribution. Now and then I have lost a piece from failure to cut properly.
One I've used is basswood from Amazon. 3mm and works well. I've gone through a couple of packs of them and only had one instance of the glue 'pooling' that ruined a piece.
Most of the parts I find to 'cut out' have to be modified to use 5mm, seems like most are 3 or 4mm designs.
Honestly, I would like to know this too. I see so much information out there on this color or that color glasses that I do not know which is best. I got green ones with mine but I read online that green is not the good color that you should have the amber/yellow/orange/whateverthatis color to protect better....no idea if it is true or not as the next person says the green are fine for diode laser wavelength....
I saw one youtube show that recommends these - https://www.amazon.com/Professional-190nm-490nm-Wavelength-Violet-Glasses/dp/B07DCRR8NG - but still nothing to tell me if this is the best to get or not.
I have a co2 and a couple of little cnc3018 types, found this on Amazon...
It's low cost, so they sell out quick. They run some windows only Chinese software that is really bad....
I upgraded the firmware to a more standard Lightburn compatible grbl, the processor on it is a stm32 it's a 32 bit processor.
Here is some of the pictures of it and it's output... all of the graphics were done with the original 3000mW head module. I upgrade it to a 30 watt Neje... we'll see how that works out...
Good luck.
:)
How about a polished stainless steel dog tag?
Something like THIS
Then you can get someone with a fiber laser to engrave a picture.
I am also single with married siblings. I thought about doing something similar for my family, but I decided that I would likely do a "mobile" (which I haven't started yet). That way imbalances contribute to the appeal! Here is something similar to what I mean: https://smile.amazon.com/Flensted-Mobiles-Circlesquare-Hanging-Mobile/dp/B000WZO03G/
Faulty connections can be as simple as a cable not being plugged in all the way. Check the USB connection at both ends of the cable. Or maybe try plugging into a different USB port on the computer.
If that doesn't correct the issue, try a new USB cable (preferably the kind with ferrite chokes near each end).
i bought a https://www.amazon.co.uk/Polycom-7200-84990-001-MINI-USB-CAMERA/dp/B07GKZNQNT
specs :-
5 mega pixel sensor
Vertical tilt angle adjustable from +6° (up) to –22° (down)
73.7° HFoV/ 82°DFoV
Automatic exposure and white balance
Autofocus, 8cm-infinity
4x electronic zoom (1.4x lossless) its an amazing cam to use with LB
all ive done is drill a hole 3cm/1inch dia in top of enclosure and poke this puppy through the hole (when not using for laser just remove and us on skpe/zoom ect
this cam can focus from infinity up to 8mm which is the best ever focus ability ive seen on a webcam (thats why i thought is would be great to use with my laser (wihich is an Atomstack A5 Pro ) and for lining up and doing a burn its awesome the wide field of view is perfect and with the zoom (using software only ) you can pan the image which is clear as crystel btw .. from the ploy com website this can is a whopping 140 but i managed to find mine on amazon (link above ) for a more decent price ;)
Maybe try to reduce the power to the laser with a buck converter?
DC Buck Module, DROK Adjustable Buck Converter Step Down Voltage Regulator 6V-32V 30V 24V 12V to 1.5-32V 5V 5A LCD Power Supply Volt Reducer Transformer Module Board with USB Port Protective Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZ2GQJF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_7NNRNKY0X34ZCSWBX8AY
So for anyone curious enough. I did end up buying the laser and the person was kind enough to include the original board, power supply and some accessories that came with it.
Unfortunately they did not include the 3-Pin cable as they needed that for another project, to which I just replied okay, as those are cheap to purchase from Amazon, eBay, or any electronics store. They suggested I buy a mini 3-pin cable.
I ended up buying these specific 3-Pin 2.00mm JST cables but they ended up having a short pitch (pitch the spacing between each pin) so it was incompatible. I'm currently waiting for a 3-Pin 2.54mm pitch JST-XH from the PiHut, but for now I just hooked up the laser to the board using female to female jumper cables and is working fine.
So as long as the laser can be mounted to the axis and you have its correct board and power supply, and the motors of your axis can push it, it works. Though setting it up has not been smooth at all! It's a bit larger than my previous module so there is a lot of interference, my working area is now effectively 160mm x 160mm from the original 170mm x 170mm.
What got me to thinking about this was seeing an ad for this machine https://www.amazon.com/Engraver-Resolution-Engraving-Bluetooth-Protective/dp/B073TRJDPS
Talking to the seller he claims it would cut through the black nickel plating to reveal the brass. Seems too good to be true at such a low price.
Since my initial build, I have added a set of 3 to 1 pulley to the setup (Amazon $10). This allows for a smaller step and more detail.
$6-7k should be plenty for an enclosed 50W.
50W Raycus Enclosed Fiber Laser Engraver Enclosure Type with D69 Rotary Axis https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZSV79WW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5HB000P33DCQ0BJN4RHA
60W MOPA around $10-12k
No offense, but that laser is so weak I’m not sure you need to worry about it too much. I hope your expectations are reasonable.
But these are the ones I got for working with my diode. And I can still see. :)
Laser Protective Glasses 200 -... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00UJBGUMM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I used this board because there were lots of tutorials for converting an ender 3, though, it required changing some settings in the configs I think (it's been a while, so, I forget).
BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0 Control Board 32Bit with TMC2209 UART Driver New Upgrade 3D Printer Parts Motherboard for Creality Ender 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0882QGFZR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SKXFJ1JVWBGFMAJH5STM?psc=1
It's a cool choice for your layered project but if you're up for some constructive criticism, for the next revision I'd make more teeth for the outside gears, perhaps make it 12 teeth and you can use it for a clock by just adding one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Include-Movement-Mechanism-Operated-Replacement/dp/B074GQXPW1/
My OCD also likes to remind me some of those gears are not round and is driving me crazy :)
That's a rotator. It plugs into the y-axis. Instead of the laser carriage moving forward and back, it rotates the cup back and forth. Like this one:
Didn't realise how bad the ones supplied by ebay sellers of laser modules are until I got some of these..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC4TMDJ?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Highly recommended
A weak diode laser can still vaporize plastic, so any thing you do in a confined space will be a risk. The poster above suggested using your dryer vent, measure the pipe (Imperial it is most likely 4inches) and get a diverter from a hardware store. EG. https://www.pricepulse.app/vent-systems-4-inch-duct-connector-3-way-hose-adap_us_14191808 and hook up an fan to use it to pull the fumes.
Would something like this be sufficient or it definitely needs to be outside? Main reason I'm asking is I have kids and don't want the toxic fumes in reading about obviously going through the house. Are these fumes more common with the co2 lasers?
I used wood glue for a long time & I always struggled with delamination & just generally ruining the finish in some way.
I use super glue - liberally - now & all that's a thing of the past. Works great for bonding big areas and tiny delicate areas equally.
Apply & then press & hold for 30 seconds, stacking one layer at a time.
Your mileage may vary, but it works great for me & seems very durable over time too.
AmazonCommercial Super Glue, 1.98... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZKZK9W8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yes you need the opposite of blue laser which is orange. These are what I got: FreeMascot OD 6+ 190nm-550nm / 800nm-1100nm Wavelength Professional Laser Safety Glasses https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DC6D11R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_TTKM8A0C28X9GG8ANH1S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
With the support towers, it shows using the R3 for longer objects. I have both but have not ran long objects through as of yet. I have just shifted the work and went again. There is a tutorial with lightburn that shows how to do that.
ATMOSTACK Extension Towers Support Shelf for Atomstack R3 Rotary Roller, for Engraving Extra Long Objects, Such as Long Wooden Boards, Skateboards, Long Billboards, etc https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09GB579WV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_22BZWRF4G7D7F2VY25V8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If the fan is at the machine, consider how well the duct joints are sealed. The joints are a potential smoke leak path back into your room.
Also consider a self closing flap on the outside if this is a permanent install. Helps keep flying critters out.
Ideal location for the blower is either just before exiting outside, or actually outside. You'd need one designed for the weather if unprotected though. Those often have built-in dampers and/or screens for the critters.
Doesn't matter which end the fan is on, longer duct has more pressure drop. Smooth bore duct flows much better than corrugated.
The laser will need much higher air flow than the resin printer.
If you're doing a lot of engraving/cutting, the larger smoke particles will eventually coat the inside of the duct, and especially the fan. Could use coarse filters to capture those.
I use these filters on my server cabinet and my laser filter, they have a tacky resin that grabs the bigger stuff.
This is the one I got it’s strong enough that I don’t really need an enclosure for most engraving. Cutting there is a faint smell but not too bad if it’s close by the intake. AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB292JC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Check your power supply. My Ortur LM2 20W started having issues (seizing up randomly partway through jobs) and I suspected the power brick (sparking when I plugged it in, some other weirdness). I bought a new one and it solved the seizing issue as well as increased my laser power slightly (the ortur power supply was 3A, the new one is 4A. While the laser only draws 3A, I wanted some headroom because these cheap power bricks don't tend to reach their full rated capacity. For example, a 3A rated brick might only deliver 2.8A).
This may not solve your problem but $17 is a cheap enough gamble
Hey thanks lots, so after reading your response and doing some research I have narrowed some things down. I was planning on going with a minimum 30 watt fiber laser, with a rotor, for deep and shallow engravings on various metals. The problem I run into is which one to buy... I was looking at this one but if you have any suggestions I’d be grateful. https://www.amazon.com/30watt-Engraver-Marking-Machine-175x175mm（6-9/dp/B08NG4WS9B
Use Inkscape. Potrace is embedded into Inkscape for live tracing, and you can scale and orient your SVG in the artboard in Inkscape and send directly to the Mini from the print dialog in Inkscape. Make sure your page dimensions and print dialog dimensions match, and your SVG will end up wherever you set it in Inkscape.
If you're determined to do it in Python (or this is an assignment), StackOVerflow has a few potentially useful discussions about potrace.
If not you may be able to get a printer and also purchase this attachment and still keep it under 400
I’ve never used one but a friend has one and the results seem good enough for something like that.
By LM2 Pro do you mean this one? Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro S2-SF. Could get it on next day delivery where I live. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09H3ZB8XY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_M5RXWJT6HBT8BPNE9S3D
Ok, very interesting. I bought this model:
“NEJE N40630 Engraving Module Big Kit,7.5W Output Power”
Do you know if this has the FAC lens on it?
I use a motorcycle scissor jack
Is this a good replacement GRBL V1.1 expansion plate MKS DLC v2.0 motherboard CNC offline LCD display replace cnc shield v3 UNO R3 CNC 3018 PRO upgrade kit For CNC Laser Engraver machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YK4HRWT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RE6H6ET2SCN5H2BSMWNP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So I have a 3018 with a stock woodpecker board. I installed a Neje 30W laser which has been working well for a while, but now, whenever I try to engrave something over 40mm in length or height, the machine starts fine and then it "jumps" or rather stops for a second and then loses position, making a mess.
So far I've tried.
Using Light Burn or Lasergrbl (same result on both) Using Buffered or direct mode, same result Testing ground on machine, ground is well wired Searched for stepper vref values for stock 3018 Sainsmart, could not find any. Cleaned X axis (as it seems it is the one jumping, as seen on the video) Greased x axis Lowered design DPI to prevent missed buffer Lowered Laser power to 30%
In all honesty, I am at a loss, anyone run into a similar issue?
IMO the symptoms felt like: A) Software buffer missing data and causing a jump B) mechanical issue, but ruled out with full moment of the X axis step by step C) Stepper getting too hot, or getting static noise and messing up. Need vref values to try to lower voltage and temp. D) PC is old, maybe it is too old to control the burn? Should I try another PC (don't have offline controller)
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks so much!
E
You will need a fiber laser. Here is an example of a machine that will work.
Acrylic is outrageous right now. I built my own laser printer enclosure using plexiglass and let me tell you, a 2' x 2' piece of plexiglass (aka Acrylic) is so expensive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAWRVJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes do not cheap out on them like tiananmen says. Long story short my right eye got fried years ago by a very high power laser and it took under a second and I am now 100% blind in my right eye so be careful for sure.
FreeMascot Professional OD 6+ 190nm-490nm Wavelength UV light / Violet & Blue Laser Safety Glasses for 405nm, 445nm, 450nm,473nm Laser (Black) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DCRR8NG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CJX9AKV6S4S10AWBBWBW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are the goggle I bought for my Ortur 20w and I am very happy with them. They are OD 6 rated.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GHKWT6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It's been great so far. It shipped from China and got to me in 5 business days. I was a little worried because they try to make it sound like it ships from inside the states, but it worked out great.
I use this pump VIVOSUN 317-1750GPH Commercial Air Pump 20W-102W, 18L-110L/min, 4-12 Outlets Air Pumps for Aquarium and Hydroponic Systems https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071GN46SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T1B4QE7TKKP63BH39CWZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And a 3D printed attachment for the fixed focus 20w. Works really well cause it has a flat piece attached to it that you can slide the focus cylinder under to properly focus it. Found it on thingiverse (can get the link for it if you want) along with other ones. Printed several of them but loved that one out of all the others.
Yeah that's the power setting.
Go buy one if these. It's only $9 and worth every penny, and wire it up how I said so you know the max setting for your tube.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MVTK9PD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_DM0CG95HJCW7HEJP0YWM
If you were running at 40 prior I'd put it back to that for now until you can get the amp meter installed.
Look for one with a graph of the OD per wavelength.
I just bought a pair of these becuase it showed the graph at OD 6 for 445nm wavelength. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC6CRSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qxkOFb3FYV0N6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
OD 6 should reduce the amount of 445nm light to 1 millionth of the original intensity (if I did the math right). Which should reduce the a 5W output (laser engraver) to a 5mW output (laser pointer).
This is all theoretical, and I might be misunderstanding somewhere.
Depending on where you are, you may be able to get cheap ducting and a bathroom exhaust fan to shove as much of the fumes outside as possible.
No, you can get the same thing for less money and without using Kickstarter. I'm not sure how this is even a Kickstarter, they didn't design or make this thing and you can buy one right now on Amazon
Here's the one I own: https://banggood.app.link/d31DIGWHQ7
Here's a random Amazon listing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q8V4XV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wRjaFbNPJBD8V
There's a million of them with slightly different plastic housings, if you search 3000mw laser you'll find a ton of options.
They're cool, I don't regret buying one, but I certainly wouldn't waste time or money doing it via Kickstarter
I got mine from Amazon, I got this exact K40 and paid this price. I got mine specifically for engraving leather. It will cut thin leather and 1 millimeter plastic but makes a mess. Don't be fooled into thinking its a clean engrave, it's not, you have to clean up the soot from burning the surface of the leather. I use saddle soap to clean off the soot so it doesn't come off on customers hands. I'm not sure where you are located but be aware most of these are coming from china, which means they have very inexpensive parts like mirrors and rubber tubing. You'll need a window to vent the gas/fumes from the exhaust fan.