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I was toying with that idea as well, although since they are spot beams I decided on staggering them out roughly 45 degrees and 50 degrees on each side that way they just expand the lit area with the headlights. I figured that way in the winter time I can see a huge area and avoid the 5+foot high snow drifts haha. As for my switch, I'm just using a simple relay harness from Amazon (MICTUNING HD 300w LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Fuse 40Amp Relay ON-OFF Waterproof Switch(1Lead 12ft 14AWG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WMPGIRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sQwUzb2MNPJ2C) but I'm planning on getting an SPOD system after a while. I'm going to need it after I add some more lights!
I got these from amazon- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBMT2JW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf make it easier to find the ones from this post! I’ve only had them on for a day or two but I will update with how they work down the road, so many of these mid range LED pods have issues with waterproofing but these seem very well built and I’m not anticipating any issues with these.
Back in 2012 the wife and I were heading to a friends beach house in the Outer Banks that required "beach roads" to get there. Even with aux lights it was still hard to see since it gets quite dark at night. Since then I carry a similar kit to this (Amazon Link). Works quite nicely since my basket has bars about the same size as a bike handle bars. I can even put them any configuration and direction.
What have you done so far?
So the light bar is sliding down, have you tightened the bolts? You kinda have to be careful because the bolts are probably Allen heads and they screw into aluminum (so you CAN strip the threads on the aluminum out). ...the face between the bracket and the lightbar housing should be ruffled/ridged and a little bit of torque on the two outside bolts should lock it in place. I don't know your experience level with this so forgive me if this is too simple, but take your Allen wrench (Allen key) and using one hand twist it with only muscle strength, don't put your weight behind it. That will keep you from stripping the threads.
So if the bolts are working their way out, and you've tried tightening them, do they have a lock washer? It will look like a ring that's been cut and bent a little. See this:
I don't know if the lock washers are there, so you may have to take the bolt off and check. Should be just below the head of the bolt.
If you don't have lock washers, the best thing is to go buy some, they're super cheap. Take the bolt with you and make sure they fit in the store.
If you don't want to do lock washers or all of the above isn't working, and you know that the bolts are working their way out you can glue the bolts on. It's literally your last resort but Loctite blue (DO NOT GET LOCTITE RED. THAT SHIT IS PERMANENT, REALLY PERMANENT)
My husband bought this light bar on a whim because it was on sale for $39.19. Put it on my Kia Sorento. Thing was great. Wicked bright for $40 (it’s now $100-25%promo). I was impressed with it.
If it makes a difference, the light bar (arriving tomorrow) is the SR-Series Pro 40" spot/flood combo and the controller (already installed and in use with other Rigid lights) is the AmeriLite Universal 4 Channel 12V Remote Control Module. The other lights draw so little power that the relays onboard the controller work fine, so they're powered directly off that controller. But this new 40" bar will need an external relay.
Look at bike lamps. I use this model
Run D cubes seem decent. No personal experience with them, ymmv.
They have a spot version as well.
I don't have any experience with rock lights so I can't help. If you want something as flush as possible I would get a kit like this one which seems easier to install and more convenient.
Yep.
If it's a small tractor you could get only one of these as your frontal headlight and this for the rear.
If you have something like a portable car jump starter you could test them that way before installing them.
I think you meant to say 99% because the clear 1156 bulbs are definitely halogen/incandescent.
Those bulbs appear to be rated at 26.9 watts each for a total of 53.8 watts if you have 2 headlights. You could get these for the front and only draw 40 watts and have no problems since you're not drawing any more power than the original halogens if you remove them. I'm sure you could add more lights but I have no idea how much more draw your alternator can handle.
Oh yeah that works. You don't need a relay but since you already have one I was suggesting you use it.
If you're going that route, I would insert a fuse between the battery and the switch since you already have one. As for the dome light fuse, you can just cram the bare wire in there then splice the other fuse holder you have, but I would get one of these for an easier, cleaner install.
You can go with those eBay lights but they may fail. If you're looking for something that will last and with good output, I would invest in a single light bar of good quality rather than multiple lights of low quality. Light bars don't have to be Rigid expensive.
Where's the best mounting option for you? Roof mounted? Pods or a bar?
Here's a triple row 52 inch bar from Auxbeam. Auxbeam typycally has good customer service/warranty and they are great value lights. I would go with a known chinese brand over the generic stuff.
I used this film but I do not recommend it; the film is not amber, it is a light-yellow color. To get amber you'll have to apply 3 layers of this film.
I don't have a Crosstrek but I'd recommend you get this bracket, I have it and it is very sturdy; I have two pods on there.
They are good lights for $18 but not as bright as these ones.
Not DOT/SAE approved but they won't blind anyone if used as fog lights.
Something that can be used off-road and on-road! I'll try to get more pictures whenever I can.
For the rear I couldn't find any 30 inch light that was flood-only, maybe the Auxbeam X-series with the flood filters. The side lights are a good choice but if you want something longer there's this 19 inch light.