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You don't have to change the whole hotend. You can change out just the heat break to make it all metal.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/WINSINN-Titanium-Chimera-Kraken-Heatbreak/dp/B077GRX256/ref
The stock heat break is 27mm long and 7 mm wide at the top, smooth, not threaded at the top.
That's great. The printer runs PLA great. It's other materials it really struggles with. If you've figured out the leveling and the calibration in a day, you'll be fine.
I run this bed https://www.amazon.com/Fulament-Fula-Flex-Textured-Smooth-Double/dp/B09CBVS1Q2 it really makes a difference.
SV04 bed is a pain. Get these
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4839897
put them over your springs. Tighten the bed down tight, but watch the back corner, if you lower it too much the connector will be too tall and if you go deep into that corner, itll break the 3d touch probe. Make that corner flush with the connector. Tighten all 3 other corners down more than it..
Do the leveling app, start that corner and get your paper grabby there. I like it to be smooth if my hand is flat on bed sliding the paper but with two fingers holding the paper it catches the paper and bunches. Now do each corner and just raise the bed until it grabs the same. Double check it, then do Ex2. Only do Ex2 height, don't forget to release the set screws. Don't touch the bed for ex2 only the ex2 adjuster. Now do the Z align. Double check the bed again then do the measuring thing to level the whole bed.
I really like this bed for the SV04.
https://www.amazon.com/Fulament-Fula-Flex-Textured-Smooth-Double/dp/B09CBVS1Q2/
I was in the exact position with my Sovol SV03 and I agree, the Winsinn fans are too loud. I kept them (never know, emergency arises) but got some Wathai instead and I gotta say, much better and you can really feel that air coming out towards the board. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H537RJ3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm more concerned with easly avaliable parts more then anything
Also is it possible to just swap out the heater block with one that fits Mk8 nozzles like these? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLWG94W/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_GV66GGS8WAHJSBBRERWQ
I'm more concerned with easly avaliable parts more then anything
Also is it possible to just swap out the heater block with one that fits Mk8 nozzles like these? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLWG94W/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_GV66GGS8WAHJSBBRERWQ
I love my SV02. Got it used about 6mo ago as my first printer. I switched to a magnetic spring bed as the glass that came with it was warped and I switched out the hotend to this one when it was on sale for $10 so I could try printing with different nozzles. The original sv02 heat block doesn’t fit most silicone sleeves and the nozzles are a pita to find.
I believe the Creality CR-X has the same nozzle type. I found this set on Amazon, but like you said it is kind of pricey.
Oh ok, I get you now.
You could try something like this:
I flex sheet may work but if they are very small a there wont be a curve to get them off either (I have a flex sheet on my i3 clone, havent used it in a while but when printing small parts the flex bit doesnt work).
Thanks for replying. Was the heatbreak this one? Is it necessary to replace the stock heat block as well?
It will vary depending on the temperature settings. If you want to know specifics for a particular print, use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN1500-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B07VPTN8FZ/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=killawatt&qid=1617801432&sr=8-9