Make sure the shelves have airflow between them, add a vent at the bottom of the door, and a vent at the top. Air flow should cause cool air to enter at the bottom and warm out the top.
Bonus add these fans at both entrance and exhaust: AC Infinity AIRPLATE T3, Quiet Cooling Fan System 6" with Thermostat Control, for Home Theater AV Cabinets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWLGPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gwarBbFAQC3H6
You need to get a stand similar to this one. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW7WGXE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sa-no-redirect=1
Then you should have room for the center under the TV.
Your wall colors are similar to mine (my walls are off white), so just sharing some info in case it's useful to you.
With a white ceiling, I wasn't super happy with the black levels, especially higher up on the screen. I thought it could be improved by "blacking out" the ceiling, at least a few feet near the screen. I also didn't want it to look janky, and I didn't want to paint my ceiling tiles.
I bought a pack of these:
And I bought 4-5 yards of velvet from JoAnn Fabric
The magnets are crazy strong and hold the fabric up with a slight droop. I also sort of rolled the magnets within the fabric, then stuck to the ceiling tile grid, so you don't see the magnets. I see your tiles don't go all the way to the wall, but I'm sure you could think of something.
I just wanted to mention since I just did this last week and it's fresh on my mind, and I think it was a great improvement for around $50.00.
Added pics https://imgur.com/a/yXudQDX
I have leftover fabric I'll be using to cover the white plastic part at the top of the screen, just haven't yet.
Dolby has completely bastardized the brand 'Atmos'.
Stereo headphones? ATMOS!!!!
Soundbar with 4 physical speakers and no subwoofer? ATMOS!!!!
Toilet that plays a tune when flushing? ATMOS!!!!
"Back in my day" Atmos meant uncompressed object-based audio with a minimum of 7 speakers fully surrounding the space. Nowadays you can literally have a stream with 128kbps stereo audio and put it in an Atmos 'container' and peddle that shit.
Yep, there's even wire specifically designed for it:
A line toner on Amazon costs like $20. Clip on one end and the probe will pick up a tone from the wire and get louder the closer you are.
If you can fit a receiver with 1.5" to spare on top, you can put an AC Infinity front-exhaust fan on top of the receiver and not worry about heat- even blasting it, I never go above 95 degrees. Really helped me get the console I liked versus a console that had room for a Marantz plus a few inches to exhaust.
Edit- also worth noting they make an $80 one that's less programmable and loses the display on the front, neither of which I would notice if they disappeared today.
My dad still has a 92 inch Mitsubishi rear projection DLP TV in his media room. Actually really great quality for 1080p but the glossy screen does not handle reflections well.
Time to upgrade those speakers! You put too much effort into that room to use shitty Bose cubes.
If you aren’t big into audio, even something like this would be a huge improvement in your movie watching experience (tons of entry level 5.1 packages are available now):
Fluance Elite High Definition Surround Sound Home Theater 5.1 Channel Speaker System (SX51WR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07983VWR5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B11HP5RSE6ASBAF6SFJS
If you want to go further down the rabbit hole:
I believe they are these: Valencia Tuscany Home Theater Seating | Top Grain Nappa Leather, Power Reclining, Power Lumbar Support, Power Headrest (Row of 3, Black). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M8DHV7L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_rnl3Fb21NQZJ7?psc=1
It's less about room size really than the layout. The problem with a small room home theater is most people sit on the back wall with the screen on the other wall, and it you don't have any space behind you it makes having rear speakers (whether back surrounds or rear heights) difficult to implement.
But with a 65" display you should be sitting closer to 7-8 ft away, which means you will have a few feet behind. That's a good thing acoustically in general (sitting against a boundary is crappy for sound quality) and it means you'll have enough space for there to be clear separation between front vs rear overheads.
Also the overhead speakers can be done for much less than $150/each if the budget is tight, many people are very happy with the Micca R-8C for $60 a pop. If you have some extra budget, the RSL C34E for $125/each are very popular because they have an angled baffle which lets you direct the sound across the listening area.
IMO, if you can afford the extra, I would do it. Also strongly recommend you do not ignore room acoustic treatments, as in a small room you'll have some hard early reflections and really bad bass variance in the modal region. Biggest priorities would be some heavy absorb on the rear wall behind your heads, also behind the front speakers on the front wall to control boundary interference (since the speakers will likely be close to the walls, frankly I wouldn't use Klipsch tower speakers in a room that small but you work with what you've got), perhaps ceiling too.
The other half of the joke doesn't age quite as well though:
> "That is a $200 plasma TV you've just killed!"
Back when this episode aired, this was a joke because it was a laughably small amount of money to spend on a TV.
Today, $200 isn't that absurd. It will buy you a quite decent budget TV: https://www.amazon.com/TCL-40S305-40-Inch-1080p-Smart/dp/B01N2UQ43P/
Also, I know I'm nitpicking as this point, but that is clearly a LCD TV. I don't think plasmas were ever sold on the consumer market in sizes that small.
If OP plans to go with your 6 Chromecast idea, he should definitely buy one of these as well and avoid using six different USB power supplies to run all those Chromecasts:
Once you get a harmony hub you wont look back. Not having to hold the remote in line of site and being able to use your phone or home automation like alexa.
This model goes on sale fairly regularly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I picked one up for $70 bucks a few days ago.
I figured you were rattling them off the walls with all them subs. :D
Theses work great,
Just make sure to avoid the studs.
From the looks of the spaghetti on the floor there, it looks to be 14 gauge.
There appears to be a mix of one 14x4 and two 14x2 wires.
This only looks like where the previous owner spliced and extended the wiring. 14 guage should be enough unless its a really long run.
You need to find where both ends terminate. One end should terminate where the speakers are located and the other terminate where the reciever or amp terminates.
You can use an app or a battery to test, but the easiest way to see where each goes is to use a tone generator.
I used a tone generator to find the wires I put in after my idiot contractor drywalled over all of them and it worked like a charm finding where they ran under the drywall.
Somthing like this would do the trick
ha, I used this svs wireless adapter combined with a small 2 channel amp to run some rear speakers where I couldn't run wires in a wife approved manner. Works great.
Bigger isn't better. Look at the room you have and seating distance. Once the screen fills about a 35-45 degree arc centered on you, you have your maximum screen size. You can go bigger and gain peripheral screen space for some added feel and imersion, but you lose the ability to focus on what's on the screen and will miss out on much of the movie. While your eye is drawn to the top left, you will miss the detail of whats going on in the center because your eye can only focus on a few degrees at best and your brain fills in the rest.
The only reason to go larger is to accomodate larger crowds. You must also consider that the larger your screen, the bigger the pixels on digital projectors and you lose image quality.
A 25' screen exceeds what I would want in any home theatre for 10 ppl or less. You would need to sit 30ft back or so, plus space behind you for speakers or a second row of guests. This calculator will help you work out the details.
Does that chip run fairly hot? It's possible it managed to desolder itself, and pressing on it reconnects those solder points. One of the options to fix it is sticking it in an oven, which was a common fix back in the day for Geforce 8600 GPU's.
Alcohol free spray with a microfiber cloth. Alcohol free in case there’s a sensitive coating.
Screen Cleaner Kit - Best for LED & LCD TV, Computer Monitor, Laptop, and iPad Screens – Contains Over 1,572 Sprays in Each Large 16 Ounce Bottle – Includes Premium Microfiber Cloth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01054S5FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_AjJ3FbXFVZT41?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ultra Clarity Eyeglass Cleaning 6 oz Spray Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051PMEOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_EkJ3Fb2YCZR4P?psc=1
Good choice for a first setup. I’ve always loved the look of their speakers too. I highly suggest you put a rug down or the reflections are going to be insane. Maybe some rubber shock absorbers for the sub or something like this.
Auralex Acoustics SubDude-II Subwoofer Acoustic Isolation Platform, 1.75" x 15" x 15" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI5AXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IrAaBbA33ETWD
> Audioquest Type 2 quad cable
Attention people out there on the interwebs reading this... don't buy this stuff. This is the same company that sells a $850 3 foot HDMI cable.
The Micca’s? I’ve been really pleased with them and yes you can point the tweeters
Micca M-8C 8 Inch 2-Way in-Ceiling in-Wall Speaker with Pivoting 1" Silk Dome Tweeter (Each, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YPS6T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_57AVDbKGJW5CC
> But as we all know you can't really "quantify" or review speakers objectively.
Actually, you can. Researcher Floyd Toole is probably the best authority on this, and you should check out his research over the decades.
>In , while preparing for sound localization experiments, Toole was surprised to discover that well-regarded speakers of the time did not measure well in the anechoic chamber—they were flawed in different ways. However he discovered that listeners in unbiased blind testing agreed on what sounded good and the loudspeakers that sounded best exhibited the best measurements. This led to progressive improvements in the anechoic descriptions of loudspeaker performance and to better methods of eliciting trustworthy opinions from listeners. There were, in effect, two parallel measurements: one technical and one subjective. The NRCC provided facilities for both, something not available to most designers and audio product reviewers.
>Toole published these findings in Canadian audio publications, through which he made contact with Canadian loudspeaker makers who began to rent the NRCC facilities for product development. Later some U.S. companies joined. The science-based process evolved and good sounding loudspeakers became more common. (Emphasis added).
If you're at all interested in the subject, I highly recommend you get his book. It will be one of the best investments you've ever made in audio as a hobby (or profession), and it could save you quite a bit of money if it keeps you from overpaying in certain areas.
Projector : Epson 5040ub
Elite Screens : 120IN SRM PRO Manual
AVR : Onkyo TX-RZ840
L & R : KEF LS50 (wall mounted, and ready for the hate)
C : KEF T301C
RL & RR & SW : Pending
Streaming Device : Roku Ultra
*Currently 15.5 feet from the screen, think I went too small a screen. Have initiated a return and replacing the screen with a 135 Elite Screen Manual. (Not SRM)
*Im ready for the hate- but wall mounted the LS50's w/ these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GUITK24/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also put 3inches of wooden block on the back of them which means its over 11inches from the back of the speaker to the wall. With 3 toddlers having them on stands isn't going to work.
I see you are planning to mount, so I wont comment on that front. What I will say is that I would be a liittle nervous about the heat of receiver due to the tight space. I use this guy to help maintain a good temp. You can definitely find something cheaper.
At that length, copper/passive HDMI cables won’t work, a quality fiber cable will be your only option, and they are expensive. Two recommendations:
Monoprice Slimrun Fiber:
I used HomeStyler and was really pleased. All free. It lets you design the floor plan and do a 3D render with your wall and floor colors. Even lets you place furniture to get the sizing right. Many name brands which I'm guessing is how they keep it "free".
Mono rca cable from red (mono) on the subwoofer to the subwoofer output on the AVR.
So I bought this on Amazon for $95.
Clearly a trial run to see if its worth the time. It works as described with one fatal flaw. Notice that music note in the top left of the world series screen? That's the audio indicator and it does not go away. Even when it is set for just one screen, it is there. Does anyone else have experience with one of these? Is there a better model?
not sure if you figured it out by now, but I work at a home theater place, and we sell these all the time to fix an issue like yours. I would highly recommend wall mounting though.
Elac B.2 are generally fairly well received. Pretty sure they go cheaper than $300 though. Last November they hit $140/pair, but were probably sold out within seconds.
$350 for the package. The new receiver gives you proper 5.1 output and 4K video pass-through. Your current unit can only run stereo and has no sub out. You can add the matching centre channel for another $100, and the same again for the matching bookshelf speakers to use as surrounds.
> do it properly with zip ties
Don't use zip ties. They're cheaper, yes. But also permanent. Use some velcro straps.
AudioQuest Diamond 3m HDMI Cable - $1,895 (free shipping!!!!!)
And that isn't even close to the most expensive being sold on the market.
They can record and transmit what you are watching and what you are saying.
One observation, The 2 electronics on the carpeted floor. Do they have ventilation slots on their bottoms? If so, you really may wish to raise them an inch or so above the carpet with a raised frame, a wire rack shelf, for example. On a solid surface, the ventilation would be fine, but on carpet, the feet will sink into the soft texture, lessening the open air space underneath, for proper ventilation. You could be causing hot spots in the circuitry, leading to possible fail scenarios. A single shelf from a rack like this may be ideal.
Also frequent vacuuming due to increased dust build up should be part of your maintenance regimen.
I'm in the US, not sure how much you'd like to spend on shipping, and discs, etc... but I'd be willing to help you get what you are looking for. Movies are a gift.
I had done near full time Commercial and residential installs of A/V with my father but as of late I think I can consider myself a reviewer at this point since that takes up most of my time. And Patreon ftw.
I hope to remedy my happiness soon. To /r/r4r!
Find a used receiver, something under $200 to start out. Then get a decent subwoofer and some cheap bookshelf speakers. In the future you can move the cheap speakers to surround duty and get better front channels.
Yes.... but, so do these for 1/10 the price.https://www.amazon.com/Yauhody-48Gbps-8K60Hz-4K144Hz-4K120Hz/dp/B08TBTF9MZ?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
I just finished installing my ceiling speakers, but for about a year before what I did was buy 4 Polk OWM-3 speakers and ceiling-mount them. They take a 1/4in thread in the back, so I bought some of these. I drilled a pilot hole into the joist, then I screwed these screws about halfway in. The other end threads into the back of the Polks, so I put a spacer up there (so the Polks didn't spin against the ceiling and mar it), and then attach the Polks that way. This gets the Polks mounted flush against the ceiling, and they're facing directly down so they still sound Atmos-y.
It worked OK. Ceiling speakers are way nicer and I wish I would have done them earlier, but middling-Atmos is better than no-Atmos.
How many pipes can you have in the ceiling? I'd be surprised if there's truly no place to put ceiling speakers.
Nah I've used a painted screen before and they work. You can add a makeshift border if you want, either a black painted stripe, or something like this if you want to go pro level:
Harmony Hub. Get the package that included the physical remote also. It's currently available for $60 right now on Amazon.
That room of yours is small. If I listened to everyone here saying it's too small I wouldn't be enjoying my theatre I have downstairs.
This guy was my inspiration.
Yes, it's small, but it's all I got. I'd rather enjoy a theatre room that was too small than no theatre at all.
I put speakers in the ceiling and side walls and behind me, and I have tower speakers up front with a centre channel and 2x pb1000 subs. Running it of a Denon 3500x which I need to upgrade to take advantage of all the speakers I have.
I stapled black felt fabric to all the walls. Found a local sale and it worked out being cheaper than paint.
I have a 100" screen and I sit about 8-9 feet away from it. Too close? Not for me. I love it. Also let me space the couch away from the back wall.
Room I have has no windows and in a perfectly black felt covered room so I went for a JVC for better black levels and 4k vs something brighter. Hopefully I can upgrade to a bigger room at some point, but I honestly don't feel like much is lacking.
I built a 2d qrd diffuser for back wall. I also got a 10" concrete cardboard form and cut it in half. I out those at the first reflection points on the side walls.
Side speakers are Polk https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004L9GWSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_G61UBOMengMof
You can aim the tweeter in them so it's great for when that pesky stud is in the way, which it always is.
They were on sale for about $200 at the time.
Ceiling speakers are also Polk 8" ceiling speakers that were on sale.
My fronts are my jm labs focal speakers I've had for 17 years. Well broken in and I love em.
So yah, you're room is small and you'll have to figure out what to do with that wall that sticks out, but you should be able to make it work so you're happy with it with enough elbow grease
There is another way to set it up if you have 4 sources. There are these cheap multi viewers on amazon that I have used the last year or so. Its a no name brand box but it is amazing. I have mine set up with my cable box, an OTA tuner, chromecast, and a PS4.
Yes, under almost all circumstances using Cloudflare or Google as your DNS makes your Internet access more responsive.
If you want to test it, use GRC's DNS Benchmark. If not, just switch your DNS to Cloudflare. Here's how to do that:
Login to your router. For an Orbi, visit orbilogin.com or 10.0.0.1. The default username is admin and the default password is password.
Click Advanced at the top left, then Setup on the left, then Internet Setup.
Under Domain Name Server (DNS) Address click Use These Servers then put either the top three from running DNS Benchmark or:
Finally, be sure to click Apply at the top.
Of course. So I have 5 inch crown that's run a few inches down from the ceiling with a recessed outlet behind it. I have the outlet on a switch which is zwave, so I can control it with my amazon echo. All of the lighting is zwave and ok dimmers. The LED strips are these - LTROP 2 Reels 12V 32.8ft Waterproof Flexible RGB LED Strip Light Kit, Color Changing SMD5050 300 LEDs, LED Strip Kit & Mini 44-key IR Controller + 12V 5A Power Supply, Adhesive Light Strips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JS298G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_X1shyb4ESE3CR
I recommend the pioneers Andrew Jones line... they are inexpensive and have incredible sound. You could get a whole 5.1 with a decent 5.1 receiver for around $700 and it will blow you away.
Pioneer SP-PK52FS Andrew Jones 5.1 Home Theater Speaker Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IK8I9K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BQvNCbAD81S5E
This receiver is solid with these speakers, I have both... I’m going to upgrade my receiver for atmos however because it’s not supported. But this receiver is a good 5.1 starter receiver, and like I said pairs well with these speakers drives them just fine.
ARC does not support lossless audio formats like TrueHD and DTS-HD (it will with HDMI 2.1, but this is likely not going to be relevant for some time).
I would need to see the codec details of your files but my guess is you ripped the lossless formats and are trying to play that. Rtings reports that the KS8000 supports both Dolby Digital 5.1 and DTS 5.1 over ARC, so it sounds like you are trying to give the TV TrueHD or DTS-HD and because it doesn't support them, its downmixing before it passes the audio over ARC.
Getting a media player is generally a better idea than using built-in TV apps, especially if you are trying to play the file back as close to the source as possible. However, I do not believe the Roku supports lossless audio. Nor does fire tv or Apple TV or chromecast. You will want to get a shield TV if you want to make use of the lossless audio formats you have ripped from blu-rays.
Can you download the program mediainfo, run one of your files through it and post a screenshot?
It's surprising how polarizing a simple question like this can be based on some of the comments in here. For those who think this is an outlandish request, I'd like to refer you to the first line of this CNET article from a few years ago:
> One of the most common requests we hear at CNET is for a TV that has good picture quality "without all that extra crap" (or words to that effect).
It's a notion that certainly hasn't gone away. With streaming services being available in so many other devices (Apple TV, Fire TV, Roku, PlayStation / Xbox, Chromecast, etc.), the need for a "smart" TV is certainly debatable.
Dolby specifies 1.25x the height of your front channels as a maximum.
Audio Quest cable is a complete scam, most of their products are. Buy normal OFC wire, which stands for oxygen free copper. 14 gauge is completely fine for runs 50ft or less.
The surrounds are too high and in the wrong position, which lessens the Atmos experience.
Pull your seating just slightly forward and mount them at a 110 degree angle. Your right surround should basically go right above your subwoofer.
Lifting the centre is definitely not a bad idea. Looks like you only need about 6" so something cheap like this would work:
In terms of upgrades, a big one would be acoustic treatment. You can make DIY absorption panels for super cheap with mineral wool.
> the $1300 Denon X3700H, which has 11 channel processing
Was just looking at that last night and noticed the X4700H is the same price tag as the X3700H. At least it was on Amazon.
Also, thank you for talking me out of a pre-amp. I was on the fence.
I would have zero hesitation mounting my tv on it. The mount is attached to two studs.
I'd pick up these screws and see which ones fit your tv the best. You will need to remove the two vertical pieces of the mount, attach them to your tv and hang up the TV.
You lucked out, usually when people move into a new place with a wall mount the old people take the vertical pieces with them and the whole thing needs to be replaced.
Yeah, what you need is called a balun. That's shout for balanced / unbalanced adapter. You may be able to find a less expensive solution than what I use, but I run an Art CleanBox pro. I had a gain mismatch issue running a Yamaha receiver to a Behringer pro amp (for the subs). I'm certain this would work for you, but it might be more expensive than other solutions. I got it from amazon. Don't forget to grab your XLR cables, unless you already have them.
The only thing you should care about is that the RCA cable is shielded, but you don't need to be spending $100+ on a subwoofer cable.
The amazon basics subwoofer cable @ $10 is way more than enough for what you'd need.
I ordered some black braided cable sleeves off amazon for about $7. 25foot roll, cut what you need. 1/4 size was perfect for 14awg monoprice wire.
I own a home theater side business and have done quite a few “budget” theater setups with the Pioneer SP-FS52 Andrew Jones Designed Floor standing speakers. They are FANTASTIC for the price. They have a lot of low end and I’ve done theaters with them and no need for a sub. Amazon and B&H has them for $99 New. There is also a matching center and surrounds in that line. I also think you can find a really nice budget receiver for around $250, Pioneer has some for that price with a ton of features. ELAC makes a kick ass sub for cheap too. You could do the Pioneer setup with 2 floors, 1 center, two surrounds and a Pioneer receiver for around $600.
Pioneer SP-FS52 on amazon $99 each
I have been keeping my eye out for the LG C8 65" for some time now. I am also playing the game that you are about the ethereal Black Friday "deals" that may (or may not) occur for this TV. I did notice last week that the sale price for calling in via BuyDig went down $100, to $2099 for the 65". It appears that every Sunday you can call in and get a price around $2100-$2200.
I personally do not think stores will lower the price much more from what we have already seen in the past. Places may have it for $1999, but that may be pushing it. I think it is highly unlikely we will see B&M stores (e.g. Best Buy) have it for that price. They currently have it for $2799 and I've seen them down to $2599. I just don't see them going down to $1999 for Black Friday.
That's just my 2 cents.
N64 red/white into AUDIO IN 2 MEDIA PLAYER; yellow into VIDEO IN 2 MEDIA PLAYER. Then you need to run a coaxial from the VIDEO OUT MONITOR to your TV, etc., - IF your tv has a coaxial input for Video In; newer tv's might not have one.
In which case you're better off getting a N64 hdmi adapter - https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Converts-Console-Connect-Adapter/dp/B085TKRPCC
You're gonna have to either go with a plasma panel or an LCD. I dont know of any decent brands which have LED's for that price. People here are gonna definitely try to sway you towards plasmas, so I would consider either the Panasonic S60 (which is currently $999, to save you having to add it to your cart to view the price.
Or the Samsung 60F6300 for $949. I'm more partial to the Panasonic myself, for both quality and the fact that you get basic Smart TV functionality out of it for only $50 more, but they're both fine choices.
5 star review on Amazon from 36 people. 3.5/5 on Cnet. Bottom line: Good value brand speakers. I dunno, sounds pretty good to me.
The Denon AVR-S500BT goes for $250 and it would be perfect for you. It supports 4K, has 5 hdmi connections, and has Bluetooth support for music.
It has great reviews, and I personally use it at home and can vouch for its quality. There's also a refurbished option for $50 less.
You sound like you want a 2014 Vizio M Series. They have been reviewing crazy well and are right in your budget. The M602i-B3 can be had at costco for ~1100 bucks.
Here is an in depth review of its lower quality sister product (E-Series) http://www.cnet.com/products/vizio-e550i-b2/. From what I've read, the M series fixes most of the E series weaknesses.
I have a couple Samsung TVs, all but one being "smart" to some capacity. Those TVs try to phone home to Samsung Korea several times an hour, all day every day.
I have a network device blocking all tracker and advertisement requests. I still get updates, and can use the services, but no pop-up ads or annoying messages.
I'm running a prosumer network router to handle that, but Pi-hole can also do that for a very low price, if you have some computer ability.
There is no such thing as a "matching" subwoofer. Just buy the best subwoofer within budget, which is pretty much never Klipsch.
Surrounds go slightly to the side, not so much the rear. You want them at ear level, so get some basic adjustable stands.
For that price you either buy used or go without a subwoofer.
If you want to buy new, grab those bookshelf speakers and amp.
FYI, they make power strips / surge bars with a main current-sensing outlet and relays on the others. Allows you to turn on one device and switch the others on.
Very useful to have when 12v triggers are not an option.
Thank you. That is a FITUEYES stand from Amazon that I had originally ordered to raise the TV up high enough to sit my center channel speaker atop my old TV stand, but it didn't have the height necessary, so I ended up buying a whole new entertainment center to fit my gear. The stand is solid, so I kept it.
You will want three 3.5mm <strong>stereo</strong> jack to RCA cables.
Each one of those three 3.5mm outputs on the rear of your motherboard output two channels:
Green outputs front left and right (stereo)
Black outputs the two surround channels
Orange outputs the center and subwoofer channels
For military and veterans check out AAFES online. Tax-free. Just bought a sony X900F 65inch for $1150. That deal ends Wednesday.
Edit**:: adding link, dont forget promo code if you buy this.
You may want to clean that switch using electronic contact cleaner. Open it up and try spraying it out with something like this:
Obviously take the usual precautions when opening up electrical devices, etc.
This could easily be done with just one receiver. I have two solutions:
The font is called Lee______ You can download it here. I pulled it out of the 1997 game of the year /r/interstate76 and I have used it all over for years but it was intended to look like handwriting.
Spend $240 and get the sub I have, the Klipsch sub-12HG (it’s $260 on Amazon, you missed a blowout sale of $180 from BuyDigg). These an actually older gen model (like how Klipsch’s Reference Premiere is an improvement on the Reference models, but they still sell both), this sold retailer for $450 or more when it was the latest gen. It will blow the pants off the sub you have now.
Fluance AV5 for surrounds would cost like $70/pair. If you want bipole speakers, Walmart is selling the Fluance XLBP’s for $120 (normally $200), I have them and they are great, that’s offset the extra cost of the sub.
I've complained to Samsung several times to no avail.
> Also, there is no option to delete nor hide the Ad Tile or advertisement on your TV. If the advertisement is specific to a certain app, such as Facebook, Google, Youtube, etc, you can contact the specific app provider itself for assistance
The only way I've found to block them is to point your TVs DNS at a service of your choice. I use OpenDNS and add samsungads.com to the blacklist. Or, pointing it at AdGuard should work too.
Or, if it's a new TV, return it.
I just bought one and would recommend the Denon X1300 or X2300 series receivers. Same as the S720 and S920 with upgrades to the Audyssey calibration and extra warranty.
Accessories for less is good but the refurbished ones only include a 1 year warranty. You can buy an extended warranty, but that raises the price even further. The X series new has a 3 year warranty.
Regular price on the X1300 is 599$. Last I checked the X1300 was 339$ from A4L plus shipping plus extended warranty if you wanted that. This week Frys has the X1300w for $299 with no tax and free shipping, which is a heck of a deal. You have to sign up for their email code, but I think if you sign up and call they can help you out. I ordered one for my theater room a few weeks ago and ordered one Sunday night for my living room to replace a dying unit. It's a great deal for a lot of features. Shipping was available when I ordered it, bit it may go in and out. They also had the X2300 for $399 a few weeks back.
Here's a review I did on the Denon and Yamaha a few weeks ago. I use it with my projector in my theater room and it works great.
Is it a subgrade? Absolutely, you're going from 8" to 12" and 50hz low to 29hz low! Is it the one deep down we want you to get? No, that would be from SVS, HSU, Rythmik or PSA which will all go below 20hz but those aren't even close to that $125 price point. So if ~$125 is all you're willing to spend I'd go for it but you're not getting a $325 savings since you can buy that exact subwoofer brand new with a warranty for $190 straight from Amazon.
> she doesn't want to waste more money and have them sound bad.
That is exactly what purchasing a soundbar or cheap speaker setup would result in.
Your best option is a used receiver to keep costs down, hooked up via optical. Then get some bookshelf speakers and a subwoofer.
For the centre channel, just buy a second pair of the bookshelf speakers and use 1 of those. Stay away from MTM centre channels, especially the cheap ones. Bad off-axis response.
Looking at future upgrades, the first thing is saving up for a better subwoofer. Something like an SVS PB-1000 Pro. Then some better front channels, so you can move the cheap ones to surround duty.
After that would be a new receiver, acoustic treatment for your room, and a second subwoofer.
Only at the end should you worry about Atmos, it requires the most effort for the least reward.
Not accurate. Here's OFC 100ft for the price I mentioned.
Something like these might help too https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Right-Angle-Degree/dp/B00BBF2FR4 ones with angled heads.
I don't know what you're working with space wise, but I'm guessing your best bet is some sort of cable raceway
Your biggest concerns with raceway would be style (paintable/non/color?) proper length, and width.
More motorcycles as diffusers :P
You could get a bigger rug to run cable for surrounds or embrace the industrial look and put floor covers down.
Agree. Would consider wall mounting them. KEF makes wall mounts, but they're expensive. Others have reported success with the large version of these mounted on a stud:
Someone might chime in about bass port reflections, but you're already pretty close to the wall with the current setup, and honestly they shouldn't be problem given that you're likely crossing the subs over at a high enough frequency where the port reflections won't matter.
> our HTR (Sony STR DN1030) does not have a true analog input that he can connect his phone to using a 3.5mm cable.
This is not correct. Your receiver has plenty of RCA analog inputs. A simple 3.5mm to RCA cable will connect the phone to one of the line inputs. You have at least two sets of RCA analog audio in's on the lower left (looking at the back).
$8 on Amazon or available at any Best Buy, Walmart, Target, etc.:
You can get things as simple as this from amazon
12 Pack- Acoustic Panels Studio Foam Wedges 1" X 12" X 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_igBaBbS8PDJTZ
You can get something better with prints too
This is a hell of a bang for the buck. I haven't used them but the reviews are 4.5 on Amazon.$400
Fluance SXHTBW High Definition Surround Sound Home Theater 5.0 Channel Speaker System Including Floorstanding Towers, Center and Rear Speakers (Natural Walnut) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M62GRFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SnKVBb3P6ENRZ
Just look all all of Fluance options. There is a 5.1 option for 570, 7.1 option for $700, giving you 300-450 to spend on a receiver.
Mine is just Amazon basics, 25 ft.
It has worked just fine for years.
I got one of these in white, it looks a lot cleaner in the meantime:
Edit: I just remembered it's either white or black, you just use whichever color side you want.
What I would do in this situation is just terminate it like a regular coax cable, tools should be available at a local hardware store or big box store. You can do either the compression or crimp style (this is a cheap way to get started). Then get something like this to connect it to your AVR to drive the subwoofer.
get this TV stand to replace the stock legs of your TV https://www.amazon.com/PERLESMITH-Universal-Swivel-Stand-Base/dp/B07T72QG3K
This way you can raise the TV, and put the Center under the TV.
Have you considered flat speaker cables like Frankever or Ghost Wire? It's adhesive to the wall, paintable, would easily hide behind the shiplap as long as you don't put a nail through mounting it, and basically invisible once installed.
You could run a standard setup that way, though you'd still need a way to get a concealed HDMI cable to/from the receiver, but you'd still be having the same issue with the Sonos power cable so what's the difference?
The Andrew Jones Sp-c22 is actually notably a crappy center speaker, lol. If it sounds good to you, then great.
This stand mount comes highly recommended
Get any one that's powered. It won't work with an un powered one.
It comes with emitters which you can just stick to the front and side step the whole issue, or if you get a 3.5mm cable you can bypass the emitters and use the IR input.
Original Debut or 2.0? They often get recommended when they go on sale. See the last sale. Polk Signature are on sale this week.
What you need is a box like this one:
Btw, make sure you set your TV's optical audio output to "Dolby Digital" in the TV settings. Most TV's have options for Dolby Digital, PCM, or Auto/Direct.
Unfortunately those are white van scan speakers and are not worth much at all. You'd be lucky to sell them for $50. If you sell them for more, you're just continuing the scam.
Edit: Here's the listing on Alibaba for a nearly identical product, for $34.