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The most popular reviews in /r/moped:
Free shipping and it took me about 6 hours to assemble
Generies 49cc Gas Powered Moped Scooter Bike with Pedal for Kids and Adults https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08942Y37D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ap7yFb5BKZX6E
People copypaste this all the time and attribute to Honda, but it actually dates from 1922, if not earlier, and it's of pretty dubious origin.
It's a plastic body panel. I'd call it a motor cover. I've found one called the "center filler panel" I checked treats, they don't have them. I'm too lazy to check 1977. May I ask why you are asking?
Id try a Lifan engine if you can find one, theyre as basic as it gets and real easy to get running well.
edit: like this one http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/50cc-kick-start-pit-bike-engine_2008531217.html?spm=a2700.7724857.29.78.bszM1I
As someone with a bike that this pipe fits, I have to say I've been looking at it for a while now and just because of the sheer price of it I'm not super keen. Total including shipping (and currency conversion) to New Zealand comes to about 3-350 dollars, which is almost more than what my bike cost.
If you look on Aliexpress at one of These you'll see that with some modification to the header and header pipe, it should bolt straight on and it looks WAY cooler than the MLM pipe (personal opinion). With that being said, if you don't know anything about fabricating and don't want to go chopping up exhaust pipes and welding them together, then unfortunately forking out money is the best way to go because the FA50, FZ50 and bikes with the same engine are all very difficult to buy performance parts for. Trust me, I've looked everywhere
Are the actual bulbs burnt out ? is the battery fully charged? Without the battery to act as a capacitor the bike will burn out lights pretty much left and right but it will start and run but will pretty much destroy bulbs instantly upon throttle.
If you were thinking about doing totally different lights there is a kit on amazon for like $20 bucks for lights, $13 for wiring harness and a on off switch. and $14 for handle bar mounts.
Since it has a 12v system you could run that for sure.
Came here to say just this. The starter clutch and clutch clutch are kind of separate things, this definitely sounds like you need to tighten the starter clutch cable.
If you have a third/fourth hand tool from a bike shop this makes it loads easier, sometimes if you ride by one they'll let you borrow one in the parking lot for a few minutes if you don't want to buy one for yourself (link below is to an amazon listing for a cheap one)
Do you have an infrared thermometer? They're like $25 on amazon.
There's really no way to say how hot your engine is running without a thermometer. Yeah, as it's running the exhaust is going to get hot. I doubt the octane of the fuel you're using matters.
I've heard that 400f is the safe limit for engine temps, but would love someone with more experience to weigh in.
Do you premix or use the oil injection system? Could be that your oil injection system is clogged, in which case you should premix (or fix the oil injection system if you're so inclined). Without sufficient oil your engine is going to get very very hot (and possibly seize)
Lastly, you may want to clean your carb and see if that helps. If you're running a little lean the engine will run hotter.
That's a beautiful bike!
You can check for air leaks by letting the bike idle and then spraying starting fluid or carb cleaner on suspect areas. These will remove paint and could dissolve some plastics, be sure to cover sensitive areas and wipe up excess ASAP. If you find an air leak, the idle will fluctuate or the bike will die completely when you spray on or near the leak.
I'd also second checking the clutch, it's possible your springs are in need of replacement or your shoes may be excessively worn. Additionally, may not hurt to get a compression tester (they are relatively inexpensive on Amazon) to make sure you've got good compression.
I think most people here will say get a DOT-approved full face (or modular) helmet.
For a long time I've been using a Fuel helmet, which is a pretty cheapo model (like $60) but gets the job done. There are somewhat nicer helmets out there from brands like HJC and Scorpion in the $100-300 range, and high-end brands like Shoei and Arai from $300-1000.
3/4 open face helmets have a certain retro appeal but they don't offer nearly the same level of protection. If you want a retro-looking model, Bell and Biltwell both offer full face retro-looking helmets.
Half helmets kind of suck. They're better than no helmet at all, of course, but personally I think they look dorky and undoubtedly they offer way less protection.
There are also modular helmets that are essentially full-face helmets that can open the front part—helpful when you need to talk to someone or drink/eat and you don't want to remove your helmet altogether.
I think if I were buying a new helmet now I'd get a modular mid-range model.
It doesn't have a lock, just a latch. I only meant "secure" in the sense that it won't pop open unexpectedly. This one is similar to what I have.
LOL, Thank fully it wasnt my misfortune. I lock mine up everywhere. The guys who's bikes were stolen didn't lock them up SHM. I have something like this (http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-720018210610-KryptoFlex-Double-Security/dp/B000NOO3ZQ/ref=pd_sim_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QDX6PD29BDC7FYH1P83) on my bike and use good lock :D
I bought them a while ago, just moved and waiting for my stuff to stuff to ship. Pretty basic abs case squirrel cage blower. Similar to this but smaller.
It seems I have resolved the issue.
I bought a Nibbi racing ignition coil, from Amazon. This gave a notable improvement, even gained more low end torque.
I also found a Keyster carburetor rebuild kit, from a local supplier. It feels good to have refreshed all the jets and needles. The performance difference was more subtle, but I'm no longer having power loss. I suspect my old pilot jet may have been over feeding after I cleaned it.
I tried changing the jet sized, up and down, but it only made things worse. So the stock jets are best on a stock setup.
I temped a cross town mission, did about 55km without an issue. Things are feeling back to expectation, maybe even better than before.
TL;DR - Weak coil/spark and off-curve carb jets caused issues at high RPM.
Sorry, there was this exact question earlier today. Which one did you get? I used these for a bit BA20D LED and they were okay. Bright but they died eventually, I just went to halogen and it’s been good enough for me.
Seems good condition, great price anyway
1 Use the right JAPANESE Industrial screwdriver (JIS)!
https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU
not philips
2 hold the brake to engage the kickstarter
3 Keep an eye on oil system!
4 Mine only start when key is turned half, i presume a shortsicircuit in lightning system
5 Do not expect more than 30MPH!
If you're using a kit over stock, you really should tune by RPM. I like the tachs that you can clip to the spark plug wire instead of the permanent wired type (like so: https://www.amazon.com/Jayron-Inductive-Tachometer-Motorcycle-Motocross/dp/B07J2DLNQD/)
Plus, using a tach lets you tune across entire power band and not just at idle.
Good luck!
It's a 3-pin, 2.8mm automotive connector. You can get these in bulk from Amazon.
Swpeet 580Pcs 2.8MM Automotive Electrical Wire Connectors Kit, 2.8mm 2 3 4 6 9 Pin Automotive Electrical Wire Connectors Pin Header Crimp Wire Terminals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK8Q5X4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_XFA9HRRSXH2DQJ1B811M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Two Set Of Quad Engine Stator Side Cover Caps W/Seals 50cc 70cc 90cc 110cc 125 cc Fit for ATV BMS Roketa Taotao SunL Coolster By OTOHANS AUTOMOTIVE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DTSWGKT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glc_i_8FS6Q262EP1RN813P42E
this one is what I have and it's almost too bright. Cannot go wrong. Great quality. Amazingly cheap price. Great runtime. Hands down.
You may want to check out Adobe's amazing Kuler website for your full pallet selection.
https://color.adobe.com/create/color-wheel/
The link is for the color wheel. Be sure to try several types of color rules and click explore at the top for all sorts of fun.
That's paint? Why not just strip it off to bare metal?
Otherwise use something like this:
SEYMOUR 620-1431 Industrial MRO High Solids Spray Paint, Light Gray Primer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AYJ0HA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_S6PVXT6ZKJTC7KG8F9MH
Get a 28mm clamp on airfilter from Amazon. If you wanna keep the bike stock then youll need an air box like the other guys are saying. Changing the airfilter may require you to change the jetting as well
what do you have for hand controls ? do you have a kill switch, at minimum you will need that. i bought one like this
you will need a clutch lever, your front and back brake levers. im trying something a little different and installing 2 into 1 brake level + thumb throttle i dont like twist throttles and i didn't like the idea of having a brake lever over on my clutch side. ill be turning to to 80% back pressure and about 60%, so when i pull it 20% the back brakes will kick on and if i need to lock up my fronts wont come on till the handle is 40% pulled.
one thing i found is you need to find out what type of REAR chain is on your bike. my sprocket is a #415H sprocket / chain and the lifan motor is a #420 chain now because my bike has a different chain i should change the sprocket out, but because the 415 and the 420 have the same pitch. it should work with out issue. i haven't tested it yet, waiting on my exhaust to come still before i start tear down, but this means this could wear out your sprocket cause of extra side to side slop
It's a heat resistant composite paper.
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-77-Performance-Material/dp/B000BWCEYM/ref=sr_1_14
oh for sure! I'm tempted by the below-- 100W, 106Db, and vomit-inducing lighting.
Certainly! This is the wheel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6QZ2US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_VWD5TPAE1DZHK8ZS1T6W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used a 16" mooed tire and tube on it, its wide enough and was no problem. Other ebike wheels I've seen were too narrow.
Even though the kit says its 36v, I have been using this 48v battery without issue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q7RTMM5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Good luck, it was fun to set up!
How about installing this tank:
UAUS Upgrade External Thread 2L Fuel Gas Tank For 2/4 Stroke 80cc 60cc 66cc 49cc Engine Motorized Bicycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XJ1MJY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N9D6NW20EPQ5K5C2DT61
Honestly the stock headlights are USELESS! Buy this. It's bright as hell, exact right size and easy to wire up. I also have the light on all the time on my bikes cuz I am lazy with my wiring :)
Maybe try looking at cafe racer saddles? Here’s an amazon listing with multiple styles:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087R7645Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used this, had to shorten the heat sink a bit to fit it in the housing, make sure your housing accepts a P15D socket lamp.
12v lighting coil from Treats and a box of these will be the last light bulb purchase you ever make: https://www.amazon.com/CARGO-LED-Extremely-Bright-Replacement/dp/B071V2DBWP
I use them for headlight, tail light, and brake light on two Maxis with no problems.
I made a post the other day about fixing my speedo. Mine has never worked since i got the bike, so i took it apart and found that the mechanical cable had broken inside. I didnt know anything about analog speedometers before this, but learned that there is a wire inside the cable with square ends that transmits the rotation speed from the front wheel to the speedometer. In my case one of the square ends had rusted off. Everyone here suggested i buy new but im trying to keep original parta where possible, so i bought a speedometer repair kit off amazon. It hasnt arrived yet but ill post results if it works
fuck all the LED lights on treats (forgive me treats). You need a 4.5" light (puch is AC power). I bought this one from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Incandescent-Multipurpose-Industrial-Lighting-Landscape/dp/B01KJ94Q1K?ref_=ast_bbp_dp&th=1&psc=1 but I swapped my ignition to a 12v setup vs the stock 6v so this may not be a good option for you. You can run a DC light on AC power but you only get half the wave so if you wants the full brightness you need to either buy an AC LED light or get a full wave rectifier
Use Mother's Aluminum Polish. You can get it on Amazon here: Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_oAFhEb47NXX5X I use it on my rims on my '79 ranger and they look absolutely stunning.
This tool works great. But why not just get a new cable?
I don't remember much about the stock carb on my Puch but looking at photos it looks like some have a flat rubber washer that presses against the intake to seal it. You can always try and seal it yourself by buying some high temperature RTV every autoparts store has, its used to seal head gaskets. You can put a really thin layer around the intake portion that inserts into the carb, when you insert it and torque down the clamp on the carb it will squish it and create a better seal.
I would vote for yes. Mopeds are super fun tinkering projects. If you get an older Puch there will always be something you can fix, adjust, improve. Once you get started you'll enjoy the moments you have when you can get your hands dirty replacing a part or solving a problem on the bike. Not to mention most old mopeds are slowly becoming collectors items so owning one is owning a piece of history.
If you need a bit more persuading I'd recommend reading Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. While mopeds are far more simple than motorcycles the satisfaction you get out of fixing and repairing them is similar.
Nope. No 50cc engine will easily go that fast, but its possible. Requires alot of fiddling with the exhaust timing thou, and you loose basicly all low end power.
Get this book, it helps alot: https://www.amazon.com/Two-Stroke-Performance-Tuning-Bell/dp/1859606199
I know theres a pdf around somewhere, but i cba to google-fu it. Your mileage may vary, and i absolutely love my ref literature i have in my shed.
yeah i didn't know how to do shit when i got into mopeds. You gotta learn fam.
5,000 miles is a really long time.
Unless you are racing your bike and need 10000% consistant ass blaster performance all the time, premixing is not as delicate or required as you think it is. just dump oil in at the pump; if it's close it's good enough. get a little doodad that's metered that you can carry oil around in if you are worried.
Think of wires as tubes and the electricity as fluid.
Ignition systems are fairly simple when it comes to the wiring. Well i guess the Urban express is a hair more complicated since it's a CDi but it's still pretty simple. more straightforward than the lighting.
Find a wiring diagram.
Hell, here's a video about circumventing the majority of the ignition electrical system.
Either way, i think you are underestimating the difficulty/cost(if you can't weld and shit) of swapping the subframe with a GY6. but you do you
I carry my 20+lb chain in my backpack when I know I'm going somewhere i'll need to lock up.
One of These fed through an old 2.5" mountain bike tube.
It's not bad in a backpack.
When I go to the grocery store and fit 6 pizzas in my backpack and have no space for the chain or when I don't have the bag, I wear it over my shoulder like a bandolier. The shoulder method sucks dick and makes my neck hurt the next day most of the time.
I think the best way to wear your chain is around the waist but 5 feet is a bit too long/short for me to wrap around an even number of times.
On my Pinto I use this OnGuard lock and put it through the frame like so. The other end I'll put around the most solid thing I can find that ideally is capped on the top to prevent a group of people from lifting it up and over (at home that's a balcony support beam or the beam supporting the staircase). The bar end also prevents someone from rolling away with it as it stops the pedals from turning. If I remember correctly the Magnum has similar holes in the frame that would work fine.
For my 103 and other step through bikes, I use another noose style chain and u-lock around the frame but otherwise same basic setup.
Regardless though of what style lock you get, I would definitely recommend lubricating it every so often. After 4 years and being a bit neglectful I had the OnGuard lock jam and refuse to open and had to cut it off. On the bright side, I saved the chain and bar itself and also took me about 3 hours of careful cutting with an angle grinder to get it free. Which actually made me feel a bit better about the lock.
I use this bad boy. the fabric on the chain can take a beating. While the cable isn't very long I wrap it around the metal bar and my frame. When I have a bicycle rack available to me I'll use that. otherwise a stop sign pole does pretty good too. Visibility is important. Even where I live most people aren't going to steal a bike locked up under a big lamp. u/blank5tare's recommendation is pretty good too I've used that in the past.
I'm currently using the OnGuard Bulldog DT U-Lock. I hook it through the rear wheel into the cargo rack, which prevents the rear wheel from turning, then secure the cable to something solid nearby and attach it to the U-lock. If I'm parking somewhere that doesn't have an anchor point, then I loop the cable through the front wheel and attach it to the U-lock, which I (again) hook through the back wheel and cargo rack. It's good to keep in mind that any lock system can be defeated if someone is determined enough, but this has worked well for me thus far and provides me with peace of mind. Sidenote: I picked up this lock combo set for $24.99 in late June from Amazon, so the price has definitely gone up, but I'm sure you could probably find it cheaper elsewhere.
get an inline fuel filter. most fuel lines are 5mm(3/16"?).
De-rusting a step-thru is a pain in the but. You can buy some toxic acid crap that will do it, but you have to be careful you don't get it on yourself. I let apple cider vinegar sit in it for a week, drain, strain and refill it every other day or so. Then I'll do a day or so of Evapo-rust
Seems to be on sale at the momend on Amazon with free shipping w/ prime. Harbor freight also carries it and with the 20% off coupon that is always available it can be had for about $23ish and it is reusable!
If you want knowledge, theres only ... well technicly two sources ... http://www.amazon.com/Two-Stroke-Performance-Tuning-Bell/dp/1859606199/ AND
http://www.amazon.com/Two-stroke-Tuners-Handbook-Gordon-Jennings/dp/0912656417 (the Graham bell book is better thou, imo, since its 20 years newer...)
i have been planning on using a product called Kreem. seen a few decent reviews, but have not yet tried it myself.
pretty sure my issue is the carb body-top, when I spray that with carb cleaner, the moped shuts off (so yeah, giant air leak there). I ordered 3 extra gaskets last night, I'll put em all in, dipped in oil, crush it down. I also ordered a couple of crush gaskets for the exhaust. Once I do that I'll check the rest of them. I have some stiff springs coming in for the clutch, so that should help w/ acceleration and idle issues too. Hopefully w/ the air leaks+clutch, I can idle, get decent accel, and help the top speed. Another big issue, I think my rear hub might be shot, it doesn't spin nearly as nicely as the front wheel. I replaced the rear bearings and grease, and I found the old cone nuts and hub bearing were ground down pretty bad. I don't think I can really fix the ground down hub, so either I need a new wheel or sealed bearings. I might just buy a new rear mag wheel, that seems like the best solution, but I'm still thinking about that one.
I doubt the carb-intake is leaking, I haven't had much of an issue there, but I ordered some of this anyway:
I know the needle only matters up to like 3/4 throttle, and wouldn't be the reason for top end speed. Clutch wouldn't matter there either. Really it's air leaks, gearing, and likely the friction on that back hub.
bings notoriously leak at the slit where the bolt tightens them down on the intake (although, i wouldn't fully attribute your problem that you are having to just that little leak that would be caused there). I usually, will slide an o'ring in the bing carb intake side of the carb. Then i will apply this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80062-High-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBGHB8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1437755190&sr=8-2&keywords=gasket+sealer to fill that gap in the intake slit of the carb. Tighten to intake, and smear more of it over the slit on the bing.
You can use the high tack sealer on the base gasket, intake gasket and others, just not exhaust or head. It's great, it will stick, it can be a pain to get off but it will not be like a more permanent substance like the grey sealer. And the red silicone is shit, it just slides out...you would just waste your money on it.
You might want to get some carb cleaner with the long red stray and do sprays around the base gasket and head gasket, be sure it doesn't get near the intake of the carb which will lead to false dropping of RPMs.
And yes, check your needle position too, but that wouldn't really affect topend. That would only be your main jet.
Nice! I just picked one up last weekend too! I just threw on this BX31 belt. Hitting about 30mph now. As others suggested, no low end... about to go remove some roller weights now.
Also, this was a great resource for understanding how the variator works. Enjoy your new bike!
I'd use a saws all to just take that problem end off then use a hammer to tap it out.
If it's threaded in, get a set of these (EVERYONE should have these, seriously life saving) and they'll let you loosen it out no problem. http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ