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Tiny gold moth in a dark closet and holes in clothing is a sure fire sign of clothes moths. The adults are hard to see as they hide in the dark all the time.
The larvae they lay are what make the holes in clothing and while they prefer the natural fibers of wool, silk or similar they will lay larvae and make holes in synthetic material if they can find some dirty laundry.
I would get some moth pheromone traps like this one. Leave the traps set up for a few days and if it’s clothes moths you will find adult males stuck to the trap. This will at least confirm it is clothes moths so you can begin the treatment.
Not really. They will only actually be living in the infested food they are feeding on. You can sure spray some pesticides (that are labelled for use in pantries and food areas) in there, but realistically you have most likely removed the issue by throwing away anything that is infested. They can't survive and thrive for long without their food source. Some of the weevils may be feeding on small bits of spilled grain or food still in the pantry, but they will die off eventually without food.
Tip going forward that I tell all of my customers: compartmentalize your pantry. Get some plastic pantry storage containers that you can separate your dry goods into. That way, if you do bring home some flour, or granola that is infested with a pantry pest, they can't spread, and you can very easily identify it. You don't actually have to remove the dry goods from the original packaging as is showing in the picture- it's just an example. Without doing this, pantry pests can spread to any other dry goods in the pantry, and unless you want to eat some bugs (which isn't a health problem by the way), you will have to throw out anything that might be infested.
at one of our association meetings we had Paul Bello as key note speaker, he wrote "The Bed Bug Combat Manual" link to book.
he said at the meeting that you can be the best at killing bed bugs, but the only place you won't be able to kill them is in their heads. with that in mind, bill that customer for every inspection you go do. we have done that for our customers and reduced the number of DP (delusional parasitosis) customers greatly. we don't just charge them and do an express inspection, we go and tear apart those bedrooms. we charge them 165 an hour and after the first hour we'll ask them if they want us to continue and then we charge by increments of 15 mins.
the other thing you can do, if you have a staff entomologist or an ACE; you can ask customers to drop of samples of what they want an ID of and charge them your hourly rate.
hope that helps
Treatment is going to depend partially on the ID. Could be fruit flies or phorid flies just going off size and what I can see of color from here. An extreme close up (use a magnifying glass if you have it) would definitely help. A pocket microscope is by far the best identification tool you can buy for the money. I recommend that one because I bought it and am super happy with it.
Either way though, the most effective treatment is always going to be removing the food source. They both feed on decaying and dead stuff, as well as the fungi that decay those things. Could be rotten fruit/veg in the pantry, a lot of leftover feces in the yard, animal cages (rabbit, guinea pig, hamster...), dead animal close to house or in crawl/attic, trash, etc.
The problem is that they don't always hang out around the actual breeding and feeding sites, so finding a concentration isn't always going to point to the infestation. A thorough inspection is what deals with them.
You will definitely need reapplications to get you through the entire season. Once a month may be sufficient depending on the material applied, but I would not expect great results with applications any less than frequently than that, and some companies apply more frequently. Efficacy of treatment will also vary depending on a lot of environmental factors surrounding your home. Are there bodies of standing water nearby (other than your pool?) How close are your neighbors properties? Is there a wood line surrounding your home or a lot leafy vegetation in your landscaping?
Here's a slideshow explaining how mosquito treatments work - I'd recommend starting at slide 23 for the information most relevant to you.
Hard to say exactly without seeing your place but if the outside generally is clean and well sealed, this applied to the inevitable cracks and crevices especially around the windows and doors should help https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Y6B4A8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZV8ZYZFRGFX8FFY8FD4A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Google "Puffy D Insecticidal Duster", here's two examples:
https://smile.amazon.com/Puff-D-512-Puffy-D-Insecticidal-Duster/dp/B07MVCXKNX
https://smile.amazon.com/Duster-Puffer-Insecticide-Insect-Powder/dp/B015BSW4ZY
I used a high pressure tip on my hose to wash the nest away from a decent distance, then I wet down all of the eaves of my house so they would leave and find a dry place to make a home. I wet down the eaves every spring when I see wasps flying around and don't ever have to live with them again! https://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-Star-Sweeper-Sprayer-TWIS3431/dp/B07D3T49YZ/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=Hose+Nozzle+High+Pressure&qid=1625272076&sr=8-13
I was about to purchase this on Amazon which is made for external fogging. https://www.amazon.com/Black-Flag-190095-Repelling-Mosquitoes/dp/B0001AUFAO/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=mosquito+fogger&qid=1623776908&sr=8-9
hence the question of using what I have first
Clean all drains mechanically (Roto-Rooter) and use an enzymatic cleaner after they are cleaned. Here's my favorite cleaner.
If this doesn't resolve in two weeks, then you must consider a drain pipe may have burst. They can usually identify the burst pipe with the use of dyes. If that has happened, the soil around the pipe must be removed in both depth and lateral, lye placed down and replace the soil. The BIG issue is if the burst pipe section has happened under a cement slab. Then the slab must be busted up to remove all contaminated soil etc.
Find out what bug you are dealing with.
I recommendinsect monitors.
Yes, I recommend to dry the clothes on high for at least 30 minutes at a laundromat. Then take the clothes right to the new place in large leaf bags
As you pack you will also need to go through everything stored. Anything fabric including things like sewing equipment, holiday decorations, stuffed animals etc. needs to be bagged as well with a Nuvan Strip inside the bag as well. Twist the top of the bag tightly and wrap with tape to ensure it remains closed. The bags need to remain closed for at least two weeks.
Oh geez I apologize! Busy day! Here’s the link:
Xcluder 162758A Rodent Control Fill Fabric Large DIY Kit, Stops Rats and Mice https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GQQVDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_zjL7FbT7FBG0Y
thanks man. after looking around this thread and others i think i might have this strat. do you mind critiquing it?
at new place: plan to store all items in one room. In that room, I am going to have 1. IGR (This Alpine for example? It says this is a residual chemical.) 2. DE powder, 3. gel bait (duck tape?).
at current place: vacuum everything, and place in sealed contractor bags.
Once I arrive a new place: go inside, set out alpine, DE powder, traps before i move anything inside. All the bags will then be taken immediately to the room that's been treated. I will not open anything for a month min.
Does this sound better, or are more products recommended? Is it too much?
Unfortunately do to my health situation i can not invite a professional in to the home right now. so i have no choice but to DIY this
We had the same problem in my house. and every time we opened the door,flies came in. Always had 2 to 10 flies at a time and it was awful.thought of selling the house it was that bad, literally was so miserable!!!!!
Nothing dead in the house,and I suspect that the neighbours feeding the local ducks and the ducks poop caused them to breed. It was horrible and I tried everything. Like EVERYTHING.
The ONLY THING that helps is a fly zapper indoors. They are immediately drawn to the light and are zapped. The noise is annoying but we've gotten used to it and have no more fly problem. I mean,sometimes I see one but then zap they are dead in seconds, and they must tell their friends not to come here because there are now much fewer to begin with.heres the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T6ZQ6HG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use this one (there are probably others but this one’s inexpensive and thats what i wanted). It works decently though it will spread out some clumps before you can get used to how you have to do it. It also works better if it’s full. I’ll usually only let it get down about 1/3 and then add a little more. But it definitely makes things a ton easier. Good luck
If the basins dry, seed them with triops whose eggs are claimed to require dessication. They eat mosquito larvae. Cheap, about $9.99 on Amazon for 50 eggs, though you'll find them all kinds of places. Some places possibly even cheaper.
Should thrive in rainwater catchbasins that may periodically empty. It's their kind of place, much as puddles and ephermal pools.
Unfortunately sealing all the gaps is the only way you can solve the problem.
The good news is that you can do it yourself. I highly recommend this pur black foam. There might be a deal that includes the foam gun. I'd also get some sheets of tin for the larger gaps.
The trick is to seal all the entry points except one. This will allow all of them to leave before sealing it up. You're also going to need a respirator. You don't want to be breathing in bat droppings. And obviously you need to remove the droppings. Shovel and a trash bag will do.
Hope this helps
If you spray the top of those traps with Alpine Fly bait works best. Stuff works wonders.
I'd start here and look into slightly newer versions/alternatives.
It would be safest and more effective to use a hand duster. I work in pest control and this is the kind that I use. There are cheaper dusters available, I'm sure they will work just as well for your needs.
Fill the hand duster about 1/3. When using make sure to hold it right side up like in the picture. This makes sure you don't puff out way to much.
I recommend a thorough crack and crevice treatment. Just go around the whole house treat any cracks you find. Make sure to treat under the molding. Everything u/jadedhomeowner said was good advice!
At work I use Tempo 1% I'm not sure if that is more effective than Diatomaceous earth. The advantage of using a powder on cracks and crevices is that you can treat unseen areas deep in your house that are not available if you sprinkle it.
Hope this helps!
>If I put them in doubled up garbage bags for two weeks, is that enough?
Bed bugs can live up to 1 year without a blood meal so probably not
There is a very low risk of bed bugs living in a picture frame. But to be safe you can put the picture frame inside a big plastic ziplock bag then bring it home with you. You can open inside of a bath tub as bed bugs cannot climb out of a bath tub because the sides are too slippery and you can examine the picture frame on the outside and then open up the frame and examine inside as well.
You can also use a steamer as the high heat will kill the bed bugs.
You can also kill the bed bugs by placing the picture frame inside something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ZappBug-Reviews-Time-Tested-Excellent-Customer/dp/B00F6EV306/
>1 qt. sprayer
So a bottle like this is okay?
Raid wasp spray, it has a kick and can spray at a distance. Still do it at night so the drones are back home. They’ll all be poisoned and the area will not be recolonized.
> Is there some sort of affordable insecticide or powder I can buy that will actually kill them?
If you can see their entrance hole, get some Delta Dust and a bellows applicator.
Deltamethrin kills wasps and ants, and should be kept away from pets, particularly cats.
For roaches (German variety) I’ve always read Advion is truly the best as it kills all the ones you don’t see which usually are a lot more than one can imagine. But again, where to find it in Canada, I’m not sure.
I have had good luck with a bucket trap like this one. https://www.amazon.com/RinneTraps-Bucket-Outdoor-Compatible-Manufacturer/dp/B08SL6KJ29 I didn’t want to use poison because I was worried that my neighbor’s cat would eat a poisoned mouse and get sick. My kitchen is the problem, so I put out the trap with peanut butter before I go to bed. The mouse goes for it, falls in, and drowns. In the morning I take the bucket outside and dump the water and the mouse out back and dump it in the bushes where some wild animal will take away the dead (but not poisoned mouse). I’ve caught six in the last couple of months.
Will need to look at all the grain products in your pantry and put them into a plastic bin to prevent a bigger infestation. Glue boards are going to be you best friend you can get them here glue boards
I would put glue boards where they walk. Here’s some good and inexpensive ones. They are cheap enough that you can put lots out. But keep these and snap traps away from kids and pets. Some of my garage mice were too smart for the traps. Like yours, they ate the bait but didn’t set them off. The sticky traps got those ones. Also, some were too small to set off the traps. The stickies got those suckers too. Good luck!
Sorry for the late replay my kid wanted to see how many times my phone could bounce down the stairs lol but it's this one here if you need it for this kinda stuff or just to get close this is the one I used
​
Also, do they bite? I have multiple bites around my ankles and just on me in general. I keep a clean apartment.
I bought this and these have been caught in the last three days.
You should snap-trap the mice inside to get rid of them. Then place your bait stations around your home, up against it, on the exterior at least at every corner of your home. I bought a 6 pack of pro bait stations on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/ProTecta-Mouse-Station-Stations-Bell-1060/dp/B003DDE23C), and that combined with the Jaguar have kept my home mouse free since I've been doing it. Of course, the best thing is to find out where they are getting in and fill those holes and gaps (google "mouse exclusion house"). But if you can't find where they are getting in, then the bait stations on the perimeter are a good way to knock down the population and get them before they get in.
Buy this
https://www.amazon.com/PT-Alpine-Pressurized-Fly-Bait/dp/B019J1WL0W
And spray the dumpster with just a little bit of it on the inside. Then you can literally sit there and watch them fly up, eat it, and die. It's great entertainment for the whole family.
Here's an inexpensive sprayer that will work with an adjustable tip.
Any product you use will have mixing instructions on the label.
Pre-cut, or did you manage to find perfectly fitting ones somehow? I bought these to place over, but the slider and ridges end up pushing the mesh away, causing a gap.
You live pretty close to the dumpster, and you seem to have checked all sources except for possibly houseplants. So by far the most likely source is the dumpster.
How often is it emptied? I used to live a little closer to my trailer park's dumpster and when 2008 happened the landlord cut pickup down from weekly to twice a month, and my place stayed full of flies. There was a tree between me and the dumpster. Back then I hung a couple of fly traps like this
on the tree. It helped some. But wasn't perfect.
Nowadays since I learned about this product
https://www.amazon.com/PT-Alpine-Pressurized-Fly-Bait/dp/B019J1WL0W
I get much better results. I very rarely get flies on my patio and almost never get one in my house. This is with a backyard full of dog poop. If I were in your position I would buy the PT Alpine and go graffiti the dumpster. Write your name with it on one side. Play tic tak toe on another. So on and so forth.
You could pour say a half gallon of bleach into the tub and sink drain and if that works they are drain flies.
I use this stuff for flies on my patio, it's killer for them
https://www.amazon.com/PT-Alpine-Pressurized-Fly-Bait/dp/B019J1WL0W
It sounds to me like you may have something dead in your walls.
Campers are notorious for roof leaks. Buy a cheap moisture meter and test the ceiling and walls to find the source. I use this one:
As an extremely fair skinned woman who has had skin cancer also consider buying a UV blocking shirt. They’re light weight and can be found reasonably on Amazon. Also sunblock and a UV hat with an extension in back that covers the neck.
https://www.amazon.com/Home-Prefer-Protection-Outdoor-Foldable/dp/B015RFDXRY/
https://www.amazon.com/Hanes-Sleeve-T-Shirt-Large-Graphite/dp/B00KBZT0BE/
Maxforce Quantum, It's some of the best stuff i've used for ghost ants in Florida. Make sure to read the label and apply properly. you don't need to use the whole bottle, a few lines of this stuff will work wonders also comes with stations.
Thank you I appreciate the suggestion.
I think tomcat does sell some circular shaped rodenticides, but they sell different sizes like these too.
I cannot recommend D-Con enough! Specifically, there is a "do not see the mouse you kill" trap which perfectly funnels the small bastards into a small hole and snaps on their necks. (Other traps may trigger without getting mice because they come from the sides; this prevents that.) Out of 10 traps I placed, this trap killed 7/8 mice. Just use a dab of peanut butter (like the size of a pea) and put along walls/baseboards. Link
Similarly, my dad had a box of D-Con poison in his garage, unopened and in a sealed bag. Out of all the things readily available (bird seed, cat food, etc.), they tore through two layers to eat the poison.
Let me know if you have questions! I recently eradicated the fuckers from my town home.
Here is what you can do, get Demand CS and Tekko Pro. Mix 1oz per gallon in a gallon sprayer treat all (do not soak it, a light spray will do) carpets, rugs anything that isn't tile or hardwood. Make sure to get cracks and crevasses, do it again after 2 weeks. VACCUME all of those things after the chemical dries. Make sure to take the pets to a vet and get some kind of flea meds or collars. If you are still having problems seek a professional, I can't see your house through reddit so a man on the ground will do better than me telling you what to spray.
Poop. I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARKSC4E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Boy it was a mess mixing. The pump sprayer oozed out. then I had to emergency pour into another container. Ugh. Managed to spray it though.
Mosquito Bits can be spread on the soil, which will stop them from breeding in it once the BTI fungus spreads- this shouldn't have any effect on the plant itself, but it can take some time to properly remove the issue. I have had a few customers with the same issue, and I simply spray a very light misting of whatever insecticide I have in my sprayer on the soil and this takes care of it quickly, and I haven't heard of any issues yet. I usually have Microcare, Ecovia WD, or Patrol (Demand CS), but honestly any liquid insecticide will kill them off.
This is one of those cases where I always recommend some pesticide, not the green method. The more plants you have inside, the harder it is to take care of in a nice way. You could let all of the plants dry out, but that risks harming certain thirsty plants. You could get better at your watering schedule, but that takes a long time to rid the issue, and all it takes is one over-watered plant to start breeding again. You could repot them all with sterile mix, but that is a massive headache, and more of a temporary fix.
As PCDuranet said though, there may also be a plumbing issue, and they may be breeding in the scum accumulated in the pipes.
Ok so as mentioned before, because you have pets you wanna be careful on how much your using of the things you have. I would also recommend the pro approach. Look for moisture in places by pipes. You could get a free home inspection from most big companies so I would get that and see what they have. I would recommend glue boards also. Nothing too crazy.
Catchmaster 60M Bulk Packed Mouse Insect & Snake Glue Boards 60-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IMZ9K6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_GZ8TETBBWTJWR7TZA26B
I normally use something similar and fold them and place along doorways and garage door corners. You would be surprised at what you catch. A good exterior treatment would go along way. Not sure what you can use in Indiana due to laws but maybe you go with Alpine WSG for the exterior. Again, a pro would know what works best in your area as far as materials to use. I have had tons of customers try on their own and use too much because they become frustrated with the slow results. Really, most of these things aren't really meant to kill on contact outside of wasp freeze, that being said, try to not use too much.
1 lb Delta Dust Insecticide and 1 Puffer R Duster Bellow Hand Duster Kill Carpenter Bees, Bees, Wasps, Fleas, Silverfish, Scorpions, Sowbugs, Millipedes, and numerous Other pests. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SFV7E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WDDVS1PZJCREQ450XFJ8
Buy this dust. This package comes with a duster, which you will need to apply it properly. Delta Dust is hands down the best insecticide dust as it is 100% waterproof,(they claim to be the only waterproof and are as far as I know) and it’s very low toxicity. Dusts can be scary but I don’t worry about Delta Dust personally. Use the duster and apply it to all cracks along all trim including baseboards and windowsills. I would empty my kitchen cabinets and dust the cracks in there too as fungus beetles can infest some stored food products such as grains and rices.
I used Nilodor's enzymatic urine neutralizer:
Had a severe mouse problem in the kitchen when I moved in, used this on all the wood they had been nesting on. Worked great, completely removed the smell after 2 applications.
I have used this in the past alone with no results to report from it, in the meantime i ordered this https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-WSG-Gram-Pour-Bottle/dp/B01GKMHIM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=alpine+wsg+insecticide&qid=1650219484&sr=8-7 and in IGR and im gonna begin with caulking and that other stuff then ill look into getting advion again. Thank you for the reply.
I use Demand CS paired with Tekko, works great for Germans make sure to use a good roach bait too. I recommend Optiguard Roach bait Make sure to read all labels and use good PPE.
@PCDuranet, I’ve seen you respond to several of these posts re: insulation removal and replacement. Thanks for chiming in, I appreciate your opinion.
On the Critter Control quote, part of the proposal was applying “ectoparasite treatment.” Turns out, this is just a can of Pro-Control Plus — a total release aerosol incesticide.
The service description for the “ectoparasite treatment” is: “Service consists of treating the affected area(s) with products to eliminate adults, larva, nymphs, and/or eggs of ectoparasites such as fleas, ticks, mites, and bat bugs.”
Do you think this is effective? I’m worried this would make things worse.
I’d use a telescoping pole with a spray can attachment:
https://www.amazon.com/DocaPole-Multi-Purpose-Telescoping-Changer-Cleaning/dp/B081K77J8B
Try using a sticky trap. Like for fruit flies. I use these in the kitchen near the sink and trash can.
24PCS Fruit Fly Sticky Traps, Fungus Gnat Traps Insect Trap for Plants Kitchen Indoor and Outdoor（24 Light Yellow） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZXZCWCB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E2RGJ78X5329Y9FK5FKD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
- You need to caulk along any crack or baseboard. Cracks in sill. Around faucet fixtures.
- Vacuum the hell out of your carpet and area every day for at least two-three weeks, especially in the crevices as well where carpet meets the wall. They lay eggs often in these areas. Eggs can last for a year and then emerge. Change vacuum bags! I vacuumed for a year, and got rid of them, along with my other suggestions--without pesticides.
- Remember pesticides are harming you too.
- Clear sealing tape around your windows? You can get some here at Amazon.
- Keep all food in tight containers. Especially cereal, nuts, flour, seeds. Look in your closet. Is there any silk or wool, down bedding- with feathers? They love natural fibers and the larvae eat and damage them. We got rid of anything with wool or silk, but keep a few items in plastic bags.
- I posted yesterday about a carpet beetle webinar today at 12:00 noon EST. They will probably have it online later if you cannot watch it live. Posted the link to register.
- Good luck.
I concur. There's no need to charge for a full treatment if an active infestation isn't found. If i had a customer that was still worried even after an inspection, I would recommend putting out a lure and trap and schedule a follow up to check for any activity. If you're interested in doing it yourself, here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/SenSci-Bed-Bug-Detection-Kit/dp/B00WR8F3LO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3LY1SUEP1KFAK&keywords=sensci+activ+volcano&qid=1649957303&sprefix=sensci+%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-3
If you're not finding bed bugs after multiple inspections, it might not be bed bugs, but a different pest that requires a blood meal, or just bites in general. If you have pets, there is a possibility it could be fleas, which are a bit harder to spot during an inspection, especially if you're not actively looking for them.
Thank you! Glad to hear it, I actually ordered these a few days ago..certainly not as powerful as the professionals have, but I figured they're worth a try! They should arrive today... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YN9385D/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_MKS9GQC576WK8GEJFQYV
This stuff is awesome and worth the price when your neighbors roaches go airduct exploring Check this out on Amazon Zoecon Gentrol Point Source IGR ZOE1007 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049EKEEK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_T30WCKGSN6S634YA96V3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have used this spray with great results. And I have used this one for quite a few years with success. I switched to the natural care for minor infestations and use the sentry one for heavier infestations.
I appreciate the thorough feedback.
I have already put in a request for a "fix" with the new landlord so trying to fix this myself before asking him to get it done professionally - so will try the boric acid and ACV.
You can try Maxforce Fly Spot. I have personally had very poor results with it, but every other technician I have spoken to had nothing but great results with it, and say flies are attracted to it like... well, like flies to shit, and it kills them quickly they say. I rarely have accounts with house or blow fly issues in my area, so I haven't had enough time dealing with it to have a solid solution.
Showing as $11.65 for me right now, so not much lost if it doesn't work for you.
I don't know why you've been downvoted, because this is a legitimate issue. I have worked around townhomes where one person lets their tiny yard pile up with dog shit, and the smell is unbearable even a few yards away.
You might be able to build one also.
Bucket Mouse Trap| Slide Flip Bucket Lid |Trap Door Style| |Multi Catch |Auto Reset| |Indoor Outdoor| https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GKLZQG4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_JY1YHK8R5X04GQSMHW0F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These work well in my kitchen.
Bocianelli 48 Pcs Sticky Fly Traps, Yellow Fruit Fungus Gnat Trap Killer for Indoor and Outdoor, Protect The Plant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T8TKNBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_MKKJJMZ44BEFCHVW183G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got rid of mine using cymexa powder and a spreader.
Read up on it.
Rockwell Labs CXID032 Cimexa Dust Insecticide, 4oz, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085HRWI8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_S7KAFEVZF70AQ90XC7C8
If it is an Indian meal moth, I'd recommend you try out these traps. They worked wonders when I had an infestation. Good luck!
Dr. Killigan's Premium Pantry Moth Traps with Pheromones https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01GM1LUGS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_2RDM4J87CSWA18W36AVD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My pest control company finally found something that looks to be helping. They ended up broadcast spraying the entire yard with Talstar P and spraying an aerosol called Shock Wave 1 on the window sills inside and out. The aerosol leaves a residue but actually kills them when they come inside (yay!). I'm still finding them dead on the window sills but I'll take any sort of improvement. You can buy the Shock Wave on Amazon here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P681249/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_Q9Z29G5X6QG3GMV60KKK
Yeah I know about the odor thing and it stressed me out when trying to handle them to take them outside. But then I found this nifty gadget and it was a game changer
Yes they can and they will. And I've experience it. Go for a roll of metal mesh. Something like this. Easy to cut but they cant chew through stainless steel.
AIEX 304 Stainless Steel Woven Wire 5 Mesh for Air Ventilation Protecting Mesh Vent Metal Screens for Bugs and Rodents Metal Security Guard Garden Screen Cabinets, 12” x24” https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B081SKB29T/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_PEWRRK4VRV55V2PJYV1Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Had to google the proper English name, but they’re called fungus gnat sticky traps.
Not correct. You will find several products with the word Alpine in it and dust is one of them. I have here Alpine dust, Tri-Die bulk dust, Tempo dust, and Delta dust. Alpine dust is just a desiccant and not my preferred choice for cockroaches but it definitely is a dust.
Alpine can be found as a WSG product (granules) you can buy, a foam, a spray for bed bugs and fleas, a total release fogger, a fly bait aerosol too and not just a gel bait only.
Just to show that Alpine dust is legit:
does mouse has sharp teeth to eat through plastic? I have placed this trap it came on the wrong end (release door) and ate through. the blue residual you see on the carpet is from the trap.
Not too expensive. I bought borax powder from Amazon for $11 (came with two big bottles). It's been working great and it is more than I'll need... hopefully.
Definitely a bad idea. Any poison use needs to be done carefully in controlled circumstances so as to avoid things like secondary poisoning of anything not meant to be poisoned. If you’re in any state other than CA, you can buy a rodent bait in the form of a bucket of blue poison blocks on Amazon called Contrac bait. You can also buy a cheap bait box to place the bait in so that only rats can access it. Place it in the attic, and the rats die within days of eating it.
Alternatively, rats can be smart when it comes to normal traps and it depends what was used. I use two traps, either this Victor rat Traps M326 (Pack of 12) - Includes the SJ pest guide eBook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBJQ9HG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K18HRHWVD3ZBWJM2EM37
Or this Catchmaster 48R Rat Glue Traps, Off White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00474RUN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SH837YP1AG8T4BK340ZY
Sometimes rats are smart enough to get bait off a snap trap without dying. If those fail, we try the glue boards next. Same deal, just a little dab of peanut butter or some dried cranberries in the middle will do. I’ve had calls back as early as the same day to come back and retrieve rats caught in the traps I just laid down. If both types of trap fail, and baiting fails, that’s pretty much the extent of most pest companies’ ability to help you and I would have to consult someone above a normal pay grade. But in nearly four years I’ve never dealt with a home where one of the three didn’t work; I’ve never had a rat we didn’t eventually catch. It’s just trial and error.
my preferred trap because highly effective and reusable.
2 Pack Humane Mouse Trap, Reusable Live Mice Trap for Indoor Outdoor Use, Mouse Traps Easy to Set and Clean, Catch and Release Cage for Small Rodent, Pets Safety (Small)
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B094JGXM9J/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_2XS5DPCVSPEP0N5E1F2C
Even during the day, I will conduct inspections with a cheap spotlight and use the light to eliminate shadows. You'll have to try different angles and maybe from the roof itself.n looks during the day and sees a shadow and assumes the element in the shadow is intact.
Even during the day, I will conduct inspections with a cheap spotlight and use the light to eliminate shadows. You'll have to try different angles and maybe from the roof itself
I'd say someone needs to go onto that roof and look around..
Buy a few boxes of Hoy Hoy traps.
They are really effective at trapping roaches
I recommend using these snap traps. Use peanut butter or attractant in the bait holder and set trap. https://www.amazon.com/Tomcat-0361710-Rat-Snap-Trap/dp/B012RGM7BO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=55614185746&gclid=CjwKCAiAh_GNBhAHEiwAjOh3ZMX2e5k7G1KSytq-Ahd1oIU8adcXPByACRYzOez-Hfbso6SCkmUp5BoCdhEQAvD_BwE&hvadid=274731107683&hvdev=m&hvlo...
Hey sorry for late response.
RockDaMic Magnifying Glass with Light (3X / 45x) Magnifying
Glasses, Handheld Lighted Magnifier for Reading, Jewelers, Coins and
Stamps
We haven't found any anywhere else. I haven't seen one in nearly two weeks since we started using a spray. Initially when we had them we removed and binned everything in that drawer. We cleaned the drawers a number of times each day. Then we used this spray https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007R2FAR2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6Z9SJRGPWQGAXVQP6XR3
I seen one the day after I first used the spray but have seen none since.
Get some spray that reeks of mint, dust wires, nice nesting spots and anywhere you think of with cayenne pepper. Here's one of the many sprays that's sold to repel them https://www.amazon.com/Exterminators-Choice-Protection-Non-Toxic-Repellent/dp/B01DTBOV06/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=rodent+repellent+for+cars&qid=1638990822&sr=8-11
Snap-E Mouse Trap by Kness (4 Traps) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZO55Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JYMBETK3A0BVC1VKEMSR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This type. Always place your traps trigger against the wall or at least against an object. Mice travel mostly along edges and traps out in the middle of nowhere are seldom effective.
We've been using these 13 gallon garbage bags do they look strong enough to you? we tie a knot in the bag itself I've been considering getting a bag sealer to make it really air tight but I figure the knot should be enough.
I've been using these Rat Traps. Are they good, or should I just use the wooden Victor ones? I'll rebait with the cheese instead, been using peanut butter and rice.
I have a Have a Hart trap but it hasn't worked so far. Maybe try cheese on that too?
This is the exact same, just different hose and tips. I’ve purchased this and swapped with better hose/tip from my old manual sprayers. I’m telling you it’s exactly the same…
Field King 190515 Professionals Battery Powered Backpack Sprayer, 4 gal , White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C814RC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_628HZTA17492VW1ZCC7D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Exterminator will only use products with cedar oil
Spray along perimeter inside and outside if possible
Initially 3-7 days
Then 1-2 weeks
Lastly seasonaly, every 3-4 months
1) Just along base boards
2) around heaters/furnace, use a wide mist additional 6+ inches around devices
3) around water, humidity, washer/dryer a wide mist.
Wondercide is a decent product with CEDAR oil
Use lemon (pine Sol type smell) if you don't want wood smell
Wondercide Natural Products - Indoor Pest Control Spray for Home and Kitchen - Fly, Ant, Spider, Roach, Flea, Bug Killer and Insect Repellent - Eco-Friendly, Pet and Family Safe — 32 oz Lemongrass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0764X2VVC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_WNKZPN1MSFYHJ7Y474CM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
please don't use glue traps! they are cruel. snaps are fastest and best, and poison is the next best option.
if you use snap traps put out LOTS of them! mice are smart and will just go around new things, so it can be hard to get them to go to the trap if they have another food source. i eventually had good luck with the victor wooden snap traps.
can you tell where they are entering? my mice came in thru a hole behind my sink, ran across my kitchen, and were camping out in the back of my fridge. (i live in an old apartment building that was shoddily renovated ) set up cameras - i have this one that i bought years ago - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016F3M7OM/ - make sure it can film in the dark, and that it can notify when there is activity (so you don't have to watch 8 hours of nothing happening in your kitchen)
i don't know what to do about the plants, but make sure all your food is in glass jars or tupperware.
i managed to catch several mice by putting traps inside a milk crate - i think the mice thought it was some sort of playground, or at least it was interesting enough that they climbed into it to investigate, and then met their demise.
Carefully go through your food and throw out anything that has larvae in it. Buy pantry moth traps and put them in your kitchen for a while. They will attract the male moths and they will stick to the sides of the traps, preventing them from finding females and reproducing. Be patient and you should be free of them within a few weeks.
Eh. They're probably more useful in a house, because there's tons of places for them to travel in apartments. I'd recommend using a couple of these or similar honestly.
Along with a thorough inspection which has been laid out previously in the thread, you could treat your luggage with bedlam plus. Bedlam is a pretty phenomenal product that has an initial knock down as well as a short lived residual effect, 16 days I believe, you'll have to read the label to make sure you are following federal laws and its expensive but not as expensive as a full home fumigation or heat treatment if you carry them home. Heres a link to amazon to buy it.
for the alpine wsg i don't really understand how to use it. do i need to purchase a spray tank? and is this the correct product? https://www.amazon.com/BASF-59020863-Alpine-0-35oz-Insecticide/dp/B08KSN2MMG/ref=sr\_1\_2?dchild=1&keywords=alpine+wsg&qid=1631664638&sr=8-2
"paint" your entire home's floor with this. Up the sides of bedding, couches, rugs, drapes. Basically the bottom 18" of your home especially pet beds and other areas they frequent. Stay out of the house for 2 hours. Vacuum daily. Have a very good success rate with that product and method.