I decided to skip the paper and bought one of these feeler gauge sets. You use the correct size metal feeler and I've had incredible adhesion.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B087CB33J3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For the glasses, the info I have is that they recommended a set of goggles off Amazon (I wanted to order an extra pair, so I was asking them what to get) and they gave me a link to a pair that protected in the 200nm-2000nm range. From what I can find on the 10W laser, it operates in a 450-460nm range, so well within the safe range of my current goggles. And from what I can find on the Snapmaker 2.0, the 1.6w Laser Module should be 450nm. But I'm still waiting on the reply from them in case I am misinterpreting something.
Hey, read through the comments below. u/PilotBurner44 has good suggestions. particularly the bit at the end about the PTFE liner in the heat break (the metal tube the filament feeds into on the opposite end of the nozzle in the heat block) I've noticed this deform during long prints so I've swapped it out on my extruder for an all metal heat break. This one linked is a 5-pack from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D2JW832/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Since replacing the heat break, I haven't had the issue, but in the same hand I haven't done another long print. Regardless, there is no PTFE in these to deform and cause the issue.
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Most likely it is this that is clogging and not the nozzle. If you swap the heat break out to this and put a nozzle in that has plastic in it, the nozzle should head up, and the plastic with it and running through a little filament will get you back and going again.
I just used a soldering iron to melt a hole in the acrylic top of the enclosure, and bought a filament dryer that lives on top.
As soon as we started having problems, we switched to the extended leveling. Issue persists.
Calibration is usually done before the bed is heated, when we start up the machine. But in the event that I keep getting failures, I calibrate right after the failed print, so bed would still be warm.
Tried using the 70% Iso Alcohol for cleaning after the first fail. After the second one I scuffed up the print plate with some sandpaper before cleaning again with the 70% and increasing the raft size and lowering the nozzle. No issues since that.
Room is closed with a fan exhausting out the sealed window (Window taped with insulation foam, with the fan taped to the opening, blowing out. Rigged up for the laser engraving smoke, but also use it for the alcohol fumes of the resin printing in the same room.) Vents are all sealed up as well, so only air intake is through the minor gaps in the crappy door that is always closed.
Filament is stored in a sealed container filled with desiccant packs.
Filament I am using. I've had pretty good results with their white, grey, and black. (Currently printing in white)
The one PETG I tried failed halfway through because the filament clogged the nozzle. I've used only PLA since then.
This is the one that I found looking at the specs. I haven't purchased it yet because Zero sent me one. I will have to get another one so I might try this one. The cool thing about it is that it has a 2.5mm range so it should sense the metal PEI plate under the glass. As ling as your glass isn't too thick it should work.
I was looking at the 5mm sense as my glass is 4mm thick.
Amazon.com: PANASONIC EW GX-H8A Sensor, INDUCTIVE, 2.5MM, 12V-24V: Industrial & Scientific
I used this 3mm acrylic (link at end), and I used the standard recommended acrylic settings for the carving bit and flat end mill (link at end) :-)
I ordered the base from Amazon, I used Adobe illustrator to image trace the mew and create the outline :-)
I did do a snorlax as well, you can find it in my profile!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VNF9CG7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_6J0PHVHAC8RYSKRW60QT
I had bought 2 kg of jayo pla for like 35$ very much cheaper than other stuff.
3D Printer PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F7L32VH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_s.4cGbWSR54RA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AH0XW0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's probably not the most cost effective cart but I needed something I could wheel around and didn't feel like doing a ton of research.
This MG Chemicals stuff? I will have to get a small spool and try it out.
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I tried the TIANSE stuff, but it kept clogging and eventually I gave up.
Yup. These are the ones I'm using: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07THLLS87/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NjSvFbQZX058V
Make sure that you actually get a 12 x 12. I ordered the one you linked, and they actually sent me 9.5 x 9.5.