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I’m not sure but used to have one like this. The coil in the middle expands/contracts with the heat. Maybe the dial is for calibration?

I’d replace it with this: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TH1100DV1000-Pro-Digital-2-Wire-Heat/dp/B00H6ARNXO

I'm thinking of this ecobee but I'm open to other options.

I'd like something a bit sleeker than the Trane offerings.

If you could provide more details of what you are requiring in a new thermostat - that would be helpful.

Not many but there are line voltage thermostats available

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RLV3120A1005-E1-Non-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B002Z7EBBU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=97TPZEWKYYC1&keywords=thermostat+120vac&qid=1659206141&sprefix=thermostat+120vac%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-3

Can you confirm you have ~24VAC between R and C conductors using a multimeter?

BTW, you have way too much bare conductor exposed in your ecobee wall-plate wiring. And bare G and C conductors are very likely touching once you put the thermostat on the wall-plate.

Also, comparing the two photos, the thermostat cable has been damaged between the two - either your stripped the conductors really aggressively, or the wiring sheath was falling apart, because I see spots/patches of bare conductor in the wires that go into the wall.

To fix the exposure, clip the bare conductors short so there is no exposed bare wire at the wall-plate. For the wires going into the wall, cover any bare spots with liquid electrical tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-07315001126-LTB-400-Electrical/dp/B000FPAN2K/

TY! Would something like the below be about right for the T6 so it plugs into current wiring system. Saw comments and it does have the adjustable cycles per hour to be 3-11 so Can set it to something like 1 since temp differential is set to 1 degree for this and can't change it.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TH6210U2001-Programmable-Thermostat-Conventional/dp/B01MDSE6AI/ref=pd_sbs_sccl_3_1/147-8668549-8770946?pd_rd_w=lJpRz&content-id=amzn1.sym.44b0dc04-f99a-4419-a406-9567d0fa03fe&pf_rd_p=44b0dc04-f99a-4419-a406-9567d0fa03fe&pf_rd_r=3VCKPKAT94P2RZ7D946V&pd_rd_wg=3ywmk&pd_rd_r=68f0402b-9399-418c-a1e5-c40803582ca2&pd_rd_i=B01MDSE6AI&psc=1#customerReviews

I would use z-wave/zigbee thermostats for all three categories. You can then control them from a single app - the app for your home controller.

For your 24VAC thermostats, I'd recommend the Honeywell T6 Pro Z-Wave.

Your 2-wire thermostats could potentially be line voltage. If they are, I'd recommend a [Stelpro](https://www.amazon.com/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Thermostat-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS]. If they are also 24VAC, then you can use the Honeywell for them as well.

If they are heat only, then you can use ecobee's with an external 24VAC transformer or power adapter.

The output from the transformer would connect to Rc and C, while the original thermostat wires would connect to Rh and W.

Transformers like this would work:

https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Auto-resetting-Compatible-Doorbell，Nest-Thermostat/dp/B085WPNC29/

it should be something like this but the 30 volt ac thing you said is throwing me off. Honeywell Home RLV3120A1005 Digital Non Programmable Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z7EBBU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VYS6PY9FH3VSJT723Y3S

ecobee3 Lite Smart Thermostat (Works with Amazon Alexa) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06VX2H83M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8J71S0DPCGGSGQAMTYMH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

So this one would be fine? I have a irrational thought that because it’s an old house, a new smart thermostat won’t work

this is and older thermostat but in my opinion the best thermostat ever made hands down it does everything but connect to wi-fi. this thermostat has been discontinued it's replacement is wi-fi the link is Amazon but you can find plenty of used and new ones on e bay.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TH8110U1003-Vision-Digital-Thermostat/dp/B000UVUGVC

> Could I perhaps put a case or something around the thermostat?

Yup. There are thermostat covers available that permit air-flow. In my experience, this is sufficient to prevent thermostats coming on due to negative pressure even when there isn't heated make-up air. Here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-CG511A1000-Thermostat-Prevent-Tampering/dp/B000BPGP6M/

Most of the line voltage digital ones I've looked at say this if you dig in the data sheet or at least the wording is unclear so I'm just trying to be sure I don't install something out of spec and create a problem. I also posted in the hvacadvice sub and a user told me to get this here puppy

https://www.amazon.com/Technologies-RC840T-120-Electromechanical-Relay-Built/dp/B00D5YLY2G

Which seems to be exactly what I need.

Thanks

I went ahead and ordered this one since it's looks like the same one but with programmable function: PRO1 T705 Single Stage NEW AL AC Air Conditioner Programmable Digital Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Z84MYI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_B0WADBRG50EXJ892N3FE

I looked at the air handler area and don't see the board. Do I have remove the panels? They seemed to have a bunch of screws so I figured it would be simpler to just try the new thermostat

Ok thanks. Will look into those settings and maybe will try to get a quote for rheem thermostat with wifi connection. The one I have is the old model with no app and wifi

https://www.amazon.ca/Protech-RETST601SYS-EcoNet-Control-Center/dp/B01I4KLHA4

This is the only one I could find. It is certainly not as cheap as I expected. flair

This will work.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Programmable-Thermostat-RTH2300B1038-E1/dp/B00CTSY6G0/

It is a relatively inexpensive, battery powered, non-WiFi programmable thermostat that will work with a gas furnace. It can set different programs for weekdays and weekends.

Does it matter what type of Honeywell I replace it with? I was thinking maybe the Honeywell Home RTH6360D1002 Programmable Thermostat.

Get the Honeywell Home RTH6360D1002 Programmable Thermostat. It is a non-smart thermostat that is powered by 2 AA batteries, and will automatically switch between heat and cool modes. It will also work with your wiring, and costs just under $50. Amazon link below:

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH6360D1002-Programmable-Thermostat-Schedule/dp/B07589KPQ3/

If you want a non-programmable thermostat, I recommend the Honeywell Home RTH5160D1003. It will still auto-switch between heat and cool modes and costs about $35.

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH5160D1003-Non-programmable-Thermostat/dp/B079Q5MKHQ/

For a 24VAC plug-in transformer? It looks like that thermostat has separate R and RC terminals, so any plug-in transformer like this one would work. You would remove the jumper between R and RC on the thermostat, and the wires from the furnace would connect to R and W while the wires from the transformer would connect to RC and C.

Keep in mind though that this solution does involve wires running from a power outlet to your thermostat, which bothers some people more than others. The Fast-Stat Common Maker is a bit more of a "cleaner" setup since the additional components for that are hidden behind the thermostat and at the furnace, although it is more expensive.

Thank you so much for the information! I am looking at THIS basic Honeywell model. What do you think would be my best transformer option for that?

Looks like the cheapest and most recent options from Emerson that can do this are the 1F85U-22NP for non-programmable or the 1F85U-22PR for programmable.

For these thermostats, one of the two wires would connect to RH, and the other wire would connect to O/B. In the installer menu (accessed by holding down the "Menu" button for 8 seconds) you would change option #20 to be 3. The process to do that is all detailed in the thermostat manual.

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/THP2400A1027W-Montaje-protectora-blanco-Honeywell/dp/B00CAWAYG6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_img_2/146-0747053-2190604?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00CAWAYG6&pd_rd_r=5d793264-a291-4a94-8694-213362e57f25&pd_rd_w=bALAm&pd_rd_.... Pretty sure this is the only one

You can use a combination like this:

• Honeywell VisionPro 8000 with RedLink Thermostat
• Honeywell FBA C7189R1004 Remote Sensor

Truth is I've seen used ecobee thermostats on eBay with 2-3 remote sensors for about $100. So that's a little cheaper than the combination above.

Get something like this Honeywell:

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH7600D-Touchscreen-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B001FWZ7IW

It allows independent scheduling for all 7 days of the week. You can keep it off for 6 days and set a schedule for just Wed.

Line voltage thermostats have gross analog controls (versus fine digital controls)

You could add an aftermarket digital/timer tstat to the electrical plug. Amazon search for it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rnMGFb3N91N48

Ah! That is a mechanical thermostat. Each thermostat controls a bank of electric heaters in your house. If you’re getting heat in a zone with the thermostat off I would lean towards the thermostat.

You can look behind the cover of the stat and look to see if the contacts are touching. You won’t be able to tell if you’re getting 24v across the thermostat when it’s off unless you have a multi meter.

I would just replace the thermostats with something a little better than that.

Try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJYUZZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_NBY7DbQ6CGTRM

These are low-voltage thermostats controlling line-voltage baseboards. Which means the thermostat actually signals a high-power switch, typically one of these, which will likely be located near the breaker panel.

The signal from the thermostat activates a low-voltage heater inside the control; as it warms up, a bimetallic switch closes, allowing the high voltage to flow to the baseboards.

When your thermostat is satisfied, the low-voltage heater is switched off, the bimetallic switch cools, and is supposed to open, turning off power to the baseboards.

These controls are notorious for becoming intermittent, and failing in the 'on' state. Read the AMZN reviews in the link above.

These can control 2 separate loads, so I would not be surprised if you have three of them.