What are /r/ebikes' favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

> Would it be as simple connecting the battery to a voltage converter and then the light to the voltage converter?

Basically. With a switch between the voltage converter and the light, if you want to be able to turn it on and off independent of the battery and if you want to switch between high beam and low beam. A converter like this would do the trick.

Worth noting, that headlight appears to use a halogen bulb, which is going to consume a lot of power for the amount of light it produces. Unless this headlight is purely for style, an LED headlight may serve you better.

West bike rear rack (310 lb capacity) here

• Brooks roll up panniers

• Passenger seat

• “companion bike seat” ebike footpegs

Elsewhere

• Bluetooth speaker

• Quadlock phone mount

• Brooks grips

• Brooks saddle B17

• Juiced motorcycle horn/alarm

• top tube box for accessories battery pack

• Tektro brakes

• Two-Zero-Six fat bike fenders here

• DOJ certified leg shackles (hand cuffs with a longer chain): one end attached to my bike, the other to lock to things for quick in-n-out

• heavy ABUS chain for when it’s out of eye/ear shot

• Kinect seat stem suspension spring

• side mirror thing

• accelerometer brake lights (not shown in picture)

• 1200+ flawless miles

If you have anyone in your life you care about, or who cares deeply for you and your well-being, you owe it to them to wear a helmet. Your kids, your spouse, SO or partner, your parents, whoever. Think of how much it would suck for your loved ones to be burdened with taking care of someone with a severe, debilitating head injury. Vegetables can't hug them back.

A while back, I was watching one of Sven Boekhorst's videos he did for Rollerblade's YT channel, where he hit his head HARD, bled all over (like head wounds typically do), needed stitches (staples, really), and it took him out of commission for weeks. They show the crash, and aftermath at the beginning of this vid. Dope video, but the LA section took a toll on Sven.

Helmets are a LOT cheaper than a visit to the emergency room. At least OP sounds like he comes from a country with a decent health care system. In the US, medical bills will financially fuck you and your family over so damn hard, even if you have "good" insurance.

This is the helmet I'm sporting now. It fits snugly, looks decent enough (I like the matte finish and squarish vents), and feels like a quality piece of protection. I never skate without it, my knee pads, or my wrist guards.

You might like my modified dual wheel surly, does about 45 an hour, about a 30ish mile range.

Definitely more like an OG moped.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPlJEWR5UVB2VOLdvcwEturG07zTIFmm3nLF8B0-i_Kwck6ViyiM2F-ohBiwiQcpg?key=ZGVfaXVfMmdNWjVJbW91YjF1dl9LTmRRQUdlMnN3

Power drills are pretty pricey. It'd be a lot cheaper to just get a 150W DC motor and a couple of SLA batteries. Same results for right around $60. You'd have to find a switch and run a wire all the way up to your handlebars though.

Please get a proper electrical system on your ebike before you burn your house down.

If you can't solder and your current demands are low and you can crimp well, then you can use presoldered connector pigtails.

This is almost certainly better than you twisting wires together and wrapping it with tape, but a proper soldered joint to a proper connector is best. Make sure you have enough power in your soldering iron, I use a Weller WESD51 station and it makes short work of 8 gauge wire and XT90 connectors.

I got a Kryptonite New Yorker chain & lock. Since I am on motor most of the time anyway, the extra weight didn't matter. Also, Panniers! You can carry more now, so be sure to have a space for that stuff.

I also would commute in to work every day on my bike (in the olden days, when offices were still a thing). When I did, a second charger was nice, in case I forgot to charge the previous night.

As for mods, all I've added were a milk-crate basket on the back, some rear-view mirrors and This bad boy

I did not know it existed. Cool. Landworks Wheelbarrow Utility Cart Electric Powered 24V DC 180W AGM Battery 330lbs (150kgs) Max Capacity Barrel Dump Material Debris Hauler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X6CR18V

I am in Canada too. I bought the Bafang 750W kit for my Giant NRS. It actually comes with 250W stickers. 🙂 I chose the 750W motor over the 500W because there was <$50 difference in price.

I bought a complete kit, motor, battery and display through one supplier on Amazon. It was the cheapest way to get everything. The supplier, Greenergia, was great to work with. The wrench was missing from the kit, they sent me one right away. I paid an extra $40 for faster shipping. Don't bother. The battery took nearly a month to arrive. I complained and they defended my $40.

Bafang full kit on Amazon.ca

got my 40 amps off amazon - a pack of 25 (!) for $5.99

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EV20RT6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

i got my 5 amps from a local hardware store because i needed them on the same day.

they're commonly known as "blade fuses" - should be easy to find.

Inexpensive (kind of at $79, it was $59 last year), but not 'cheap'. Been using it for over a year - more streets and roads versus rough MTB stuff. I'm 150 lbs. and I think the 'spring' is perfect (also adjustable). Daily commute to work.

https://www.amazon.com/ANIMARIS-Damping-Suspension-Seatpost-Mountain/dp/B08BBYYP31/

Get lights yesterday. Seriously. Get good ones. You don’t wanna be dead with the $20 you saved on lights still in your pocket.

Cygolite Streak 450 Lumen Headlight & Hotshot SL 50 Lumen Tail Light USB Rechargeable Bike Light Combo Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IO12ZPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YGTC6536JCT38EEEG2T1

A decent socket adapter may work in that case, but check your included AC adapter to see how many watts it draws off the outlet against whatever adapter you can find - not a good idea to overdraw between a charger and the lightbulb that still has to be plugged in.

We were having a lot of trouble hearing each other when we were zipping around in our e-bikes so I found these 2A radio devices on Amazon and epoxied them onto our helmets. I had to sew in an additional cross strap to hold the speaker and microphone.

Inside https://i.imgur.com/14fYMBB.jpg

Amazon IDEAPRO [Update version] Waterproof BT 1200M Range 6 Riders Motorcycle and Scooter Bluetooth Headset / Intercom Sports Helmet Intercom Bluetooth Interphone (E6, Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01KX0IVTI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Return it. Sunk cost isn't as bad as it could be. This bike has been fun for the last year and falls in your budget. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VD61XYR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_MR92YCY6JFDFS7BM2AP3

Duck Horn

Nice. I made my own BBSHD controller too with an arduino and an OLED. It's barely visible in the sun, maybe I try ePaper next. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNqHd4CpDkAznLShIhCAhOOfV430sOZZjLArEBckp3R3ZA1XO9oBIKmBBlrTkt4SQ?key=dmRpNEJRY2I0UFowOXdPai1hMkQwM3ZFekNiQV9R

I just did my second sub 1000$ bike and I'm much happier with this one, I recommend a bbs02 I got mine with shipping for 505$ then I got a bike at the local retail store for 120$ I would prioritize a bike with fenders and no front suspension cheap suspension does nothing and is unnecessary weight fenders protect you from puddles, and this battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081N8TLP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_CX65H4K7CET8TAYX75B6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 unless it rains a ton where you live you should be fine for the summer until you get a a rain cover which they sell or you can save up for a Luna battery. But even with the cover you'll be sub 1000$ I also recommend cruiser handle bars for the upright riding position. Downside to this build you'll need a lot of bike specific tools upside is if something goes wrong with the bike or even the motor you'll be able to fix it yourself battery not so much.

orange tire sealant

Just like others have suggest tire sealant works well. in fact you don't even have to patch you tube. I have used tire sealant in my tires for years for my e-bike as well as my regular bike.

Super cool build. Mind sharing some specs / build details?

I'm currently putting together a parts list for a 125cc pit bike conversion and have been leaning toward using something like this as the drive motor.

What kind of speed/range are you seeing with this setup?

This looks like the specific product OP was referring to. Thank you for the link!

For posterity - an amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAIBF2M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp&amp;tag=eken01-20&amp;amp&amp;camp=1789&amp;amp&amp;creative=9325&amp;amp&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;amp&amp;creativeASIN=B01LAIBF2M&amp;amp&amp;linkId=1c0f76b2cc601141c98f4f04125...

It's a Performer JC70, had it a couple months and the weather has finally gotten good enough to take it to work semi regularly. About 22 miles, about half on trail, about half on an arterial road.

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That's a 14S7P battery, about 21Ah or a little over 1kw. Runs happily at 25mph with pedal assist* and way easier on my back than my older diamond frame build.

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And yes, I really like yellow :)

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More pictures, including briefly before the electric kit went on: Google album with more photos

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(* will go at least bit faster, but I'm trying to avoid running down the battery and going a bit faster each time so I don't run out of power before I get to work. Still trying to figure out the lights so I can take it home in the evening.)

I agree that bikes should be part of the future of cities with better bike friendly infrastructure.

Comparison of efficiencies:

I average around 25 watt-hours/mile on my ebike.

In my Nissan Leaf it is 250 watt-hours/mile. - roughly 10 times the bike.

A regular combustion car consumes 940 watt-hours/mile. This is 40 times the ebike and 4 times the electric Leaf. Link

I found it pretty easy probably took around 4hours total to get it together. Had to get a metal file and shave about 1 mm off the back forks were the axle bolts fit in because it was a little big. That probably took the longest otherwise it was just hooking up and routing wires so pretty easy. The battery is just a upp pack off Amazon. And the kit is here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBWAINC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I also got some torque arm things off Amazon because it was recommended for a 1000 watt motor.

Too many. Go to a local tire shop with Nitrogen. Ask them to fill it up. Last a little longer. I'm still trying to figure out if I can ask them to fill my Airshot tank. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ4MXQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_A1TES14GZCF65EYBRNH9

JooFn Disc Brake Caliper Mount Adapter PM to is Front 203mm Rear 180mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9P6RQ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9M0J56XZPHQB4FQRGCNX

Teyssor 140mm 160mm 180mm 203mm Bike Disc Brake Rotor with 6 Bolts Fit for Road Bike Mountain Bike BMX MTB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0872XJ7VQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DHGA8N2JJBZ9TPJ9CPEH?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

203s stop really well

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089J75Q29/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I just bought one of these for my Sur Ron Black on the way in ~2 weeks! Will pull 12v off the headlight and tuck it in a hard to find location.

Downhill MTB vest with a motorcycle rated spine protector:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/alpinestars-vector-tech-protection-long-sleeve-jacket?skidn=APN01KD-BK-S&amp;ti=UExQIENhdDpCaWtlIENoZXN0ICYgU3BpbmUgUHJvdGVjdGlvbjoxOjExOmNjQ2F0MTAwMDA0

The sleeves with elbow and shoulder pads zip off for hot weather.

Downhill MTB helmet - I wear a Fox. Definitely get a Bell or Fox.

Helmet covered in black reflective tape from rydesafe.com

One of these reflective vests: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RDBQVHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_13BHFSTHNM7BQZM3N7NZ

Full fingered gloves with knuckle pads.

Two cameras, a Hero 9 pointed backwards and a 360 cam.

Sounds like a lot? Most motorcycle fatalities occur around 30mph. Hitting the side of a car that pulls out in front of you, with no gear on, can easily kill you. Kinetic energy increases at the square of velocity. So 30mph gives your body four times the potential organ crushing energy of 15mph. And most drivers I see are on their phones.

Stay safe out there.

Amazon. Link is here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CZP4P2Y I did put a review on the Amazon page for that. The bolt they include with it, makes no sense for that frame. You can't get an allen key into that area, and the bolt is too long to fit, anyways.

What can be done, though, is what I did. You run a slightly thinner, longer bolt through the bottom of the kickstand, with washers on both sides, and put a nut on top.

On the front is a bag from ecells.

On the rear:

ROCKBROS Bike Rack Bag Trunk Bag Waterproof Carbon Leather Bicycle Rear Seat Cargo Bag Rear Pack Trunk Pannier Handbag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079M1RDJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mt5Z2bmocdNfT

I did suspension seatpost. Most important upgrade for me. Suntour ncx on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092ZQNF9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_1RBCJJ1CGB3737DDZDJA

I also totally recommend air suspension fork if you don't already have one. My Aventon Pace 500 came with neither. Completely improves the ride immensely.

Well Amazon has all sorts of cool looking clamps but not that one by it’s self. But, I remember it from horns: Timoo Bike Horn for Adults Classic Bugle Horn Metal Squeeze Clown Horn for Golf Cart, Fits All Bicycle Handle Bar, Loud Sounds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HD395Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J0WFR9RZVKWBB6RXNF67

I’ll put my 2 cents in...!

I bought a bafang conversion off Amazon last year. It’s been superb fun and I’ve had no issue with it at all. The only thing I would change is that I would have preferred a rear-hub drive instead of the front-hub drive that I went with. Having said that, it’s still been great. I spent $750 in total on everything.

The exact kit isn’t available anymore on Amazon, but this one is very very similar (and is a rear-hub too).

I went with the 48v 17ah battery. I can get 30+ miles from one charge and I use the throttle quite a lot because I’m lazy. Using just pedal assist you’d probably get 40-50 miles.

I went with the cheapest display because I didn’t really care for anything fancy.

Here is the link and you can pick all your favorite options. Have fun and enjoy! Feel free to ask me any questions if you get confused with all the options.

BAFANG Rear Wheel 500W 48V Hub Motor Electric Bike Conversion Kit for Kinds of Bicycles 20" 26" 27.5" 700C Rear Wheel Ebike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MNZTSDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ENQDRXTTMFSDMFMTGDKE

Sure thing...the only caveat is that its a bit hard to setup, because of the language translation, but it works flawlessly once its is.

This is very doable for about $500 if you modify your existing bike.

Ebikeling 36v 500w kit for about $300: https://www.amazon.com/EBIKELING-Waterproof-Electric-Bicycle-Conversion/dp/B07MG8CGK9/

Unit Pack Power 36V 9.6Ah Panasonic Battery for $222: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKGEmff

Building a battery only makes sense if you already own the tools and plan to make more than one. The material and tool costs for a single battery means you probably won't come out ahead vs buying one.

I'm using a bikehand pro stand, 90 on amazon. Not the cheapest or the most expensive. I was surprised by how high quality it actually is, especially the part that clamps on the bike, it's a great design.

Here it is holding the bike I am working on.

The combined weight of everything in that picture is about 60lbs. Heavier than that and you probably need some fancy park tool stand, but if your bike is 52 this one will hold it no problem.

He is mistaken. The chain has to turn backwards to engage the brake. Most bottom bracket mid drives freewheel and will not allow that to happen. The TSDZ2 is one exception.

That's a single-piece crank, so you're out of luck there as well.

There are single-speed chain drives that mount to the left side chainstay which would not interfere with the original drive train.

It's the same kind of aluminum toolbox you see on trucks, bolted to the frame. Adds 30 lbs but much more secure than plastic or wire baskets! Also works as a passenger seat. I've padded the inside with adhesive foam.

I am using this Kryptonite Evolution Ulock with Cable. It is pretty sturdy and comes with a mounting bracket, and because of the included cable you can lock your front wheel along with your frame. It has a year warrenty you can sign up for free theft insurance, if the lock gets cut and your bike gets stolen you can get 2.5k coverage.

This is the one I got. It’s loud and very sensitive to vibrations and affordable. I hide it under the bike seat so it’s not apparent where it is and where the sound is coming from. A must have! I also use a strong lock.

Wsdcam 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft Vibration Motorcycle Bicycle Alarm Waterproof Security Cycling Bike Alarm with Remote: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hjxxFb34HQPNX

The kind that have wheel cups or slots would work fine. They are far superior in general. But you need a hitch. It's worth it to have a hitch rack.

Otherwise you can get a bar that goes across the bike. I hate anything touching my paint because it invariably gets dinged or rubbed. The rad rover is pretty heavy though a wheel cup style would be much better.

Unless I am missing something - the square, tapered, crank arms use the same bolts as any standard old-school bicycle bottom bracket spindle. ( Thread size is 8mm and the threaded end of the bolt is about15mm deep).

Stop by your local bike shop. They're about 5 to 10 bucks a pair.

Amazon - bottom bracket crank arm bolts

My first post here so "Hi everyone", I bought this guy off Amazon back in October and it's been my daily driver to school (22 miles one way) and work (15 one way) and pretty much anywhere I don't need to have a trunk. Slowly learned to be prepared and that fenders aren't just for show. Definitely plan on building something better in the coming months but this was an excellent pre-built entry level sampling of the world of e-bikes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4M9ZHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_xG2eEb3R14V6M

Edit: added Amazon link.

Min sticks out just a little like yours does. Drop the torque nuts and put two grinTech v4 on each side. Better safe then sorry!

https://www.amazon.com/Grin-Technologies-Universal-Electric-ebikes/dp/B00K60C67Y/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?crid=2Q6IFV6848JVN&amp;keywords=grin+technologies+torque+arm&amp;qid=1552710193&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=grin+tech%2Caps%2C169&amp;sr=8-3-fkmrnull

Drilling new holes in the frame shouldn't be a problem if you do it right, but if you don't want to do that, GrinTech sells a solution for specifically that problem. Put eyelets on any part of the frame you can wrap a hose clamp around.

Hell ya! Do it all the time!

Of course, this really depends on lots of things. Do you have a safe area (not too much traffic)? How stable are you in riding? How big and strong is the dog and how much do they pull?

I used to take my dog biking all the time (hold the leash in one hand and the handlebar in the other hand). He got old and couldn't run much, so I got a cargo bike and took him everywhere:

https://youtu.be/zEY7LmnY23E

Ollie passed away and we got another dog. She is a puppy and hates the cargo bike. She wants to run! She is now 2 years old and weighs 50 lbs (black lab mix). I now take her with my e-bike. Leash in one hand, the bike handle bar in the other hand. The e-bike is awesome because it has good acceleration. Sometimes she just zooms all of a sudden and I can keep up without tugging on the leash.

But I'm a strong rider. I can keep her in control while riding 20+ miles per hour on short bursts.

My girlfriend is not a strong bike rider. So we got her one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4

This ties to my girlfriend's bicycle seat post. It stretches out and holds the dog. She takes our dog for rides with this apparatus. Works pretty good! She gets to keep both hands on the handlebars.

If you have an existing power connection for a headlight, then you first need to know what is the voltage it outputs to the existing light.

Most of the ebikes I have seen with either step down the voltage to 5v, 12v to power the light, or output at the full voltage of the battery ( 36v, 48v, 56v, 72v, etc.) and then the headlight has built in circuitry to lower the voltage.

If you are lucky, it will output to 12v or higher, it is much cheaper and more common to find a 12v headlight as they are also used on motorcycles and some cars. Or you can get step down DC converters to lower down to 12v pretty cheap.

If it outputs at only 5v, then you would need to look for lights that are designed to run off of USB power if you wanna find an inexpensive one.

You can buy just the male or female cable connections to match your existing headlight connector and splice it onto whatever light you get.

Edit: My ebike output 36v to the headlights and I got this headlight but only installed 1 of the 2 on my ebike and used this step down converter to get 12v output.

These are the ones I got they're nice and simple. I had to use the smaller rubber adapters and then screw the nut down a bit tighter to get them go stick right but they're sturdy enough.

CYCL Wing Lights Fixed V3-Turning Signals for Bicycles, Black, 11.8x8x3.2cm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CQ7VTN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_GF3Y42MSQXMT9D1DSC6B

Pretty low budget for a 500-750w bike. You're looking at stuff from China. Some sellers like Banggood (https://www.banggood.com/search/ebike.html?from=nav&amp;direct=12) have warehouses in Europe they can ship from. Unless you find some low volume manufacturer in or around your country, I think that's your best bet.

Of course, you could also get a second hand bike and a 300$ ebike kit from (you guessed it) China and make it yourself..

Ooh, that is a tasty lesser amount of money right there. I'm gonna check out the site, thank you!

Also, you could upload multiple pictures (and gifs btw) to imgbb.com and then copy the url to a reddit comment, s'what I do.

Much better than imgur, ugh. That site got so messy.

I've not ridden one but the Yamaha PW motor is well regarded and used by other brands particularly Haibike, 49lb is lightweight for an ebike, and the 2x9 dual chainrings and torque sensor should make it more bicycle-like to ride. 3 frame sizes should hopefully mean you can get a bike sized to fit you. There was a recent podcast interview with a brand marketing manager from Yamaha US and he said they would have a 3-year transferable warranty if you have the bike inspected by a Yamaha dealer, this is something only a few ebike brands like Stromer can offer but it would help you get a better asking price if for some reason you needed to sell the bike during the warranty period. If you get one post a review back here, would enjoy reading what an owner thinks of how it rides.

I've been very skeptical of most of the e-bikes that have launched on Indiegogo in the past, but this one looks pretty solid to me. It definitely helps that they're not using that super-shady "flexible funding" style campaign.

I spoke with the creator, Ben Tarassoli, on the phone last week and interviewed him for a piece I'll be putting up on GeekWire later this week.

edit: Here's the article - http://www.geekwire.com/2016/local-engineers-launch-design-centric-ebike-startup/

Hi DanielLiaw

• 1. Join and use Strava app to record your bike rides. Strava records how many kilojoules (KJ) you use. This number is similar to watts and is very useful to determine what battery size to get.
• 2. Follow me at https://www.strava.com/athletes/3965350 .
• I ride 26 miles / 52 miles to work / 250+ miles weekly
• My current setup is a 48V20AH battery from LunaCycle
• Cycle Satiator Charger - Grin Technologies
• Tannus Tires - No punctures
• My bike is a Folding Brompton front hub 250W motor
• Get Raincoat, Rainpaints, USB Cygolite lights
• If you decide to get a folding bike, and it breaks down, use Uber app to get home.

You can edit the map. If you are not comfortable doing it yourself you can right click on the map to add a note saying there is an ebike store here and someone else will add the data in.

Top speed is determined by the ratio between the motor's chainring and the wheel's cog/freewheel. Top rpm of a bbshd 52v is around 170rpm.

This helps calculate that: https://www.omnicalculator.com/everyday-life/rpm

If you wanted a top speed of 20mph you'd want a 0.5 ratio, so 44t chainring and 22t freewheel.

Single speeds are very tough to balance gearing for efficient drive from the mid drive motor as well as gearing for an easy pedaling experience. If that's high on your list, you're set on this bike/single speed, look back at hub drives and not mid. That way your single speed gearing is only for pedaling.

I'm just going to put this out there: is English not your first language? If so, I apologize for giving you such a hard time about this.

The word "small" here applies to the assist, not the wind. The word "windy" means &quot;a strong wind.&quot;

You could try out the first bike in the iGO catalogue here: http://issuu.com/igoelectricbikes/docs/igo2019-cat01us--page/3?e=34619625/64937871 It is an urban style city ebike. It does have 9 speeds, but you can always leave it in one and forget the other 8!;) Comes with either flat bar or drops. The price is a little over your ideal at $1999 , but is packing a lot for that price. The bike is not on the website yet - was only launched a couple of weeks ago at interbike.

Yeah, if they are feeling nervous or having doubts I hope they acknowledge and adjust. I hope Indiegogo is also learning and adjusting to protect backers and really validate their service long term. With this many people involved and this amount of money... it's a lot to think about with not a lot of communication so far. I think if I were on the Storm team I'd post an update like "wow, we passed our goal in one day!!!" And then "wow, one million! What a dream come true, viva la Ebike!!" And while they have shared a new FAQ response today I'm stilling feeling uneasy.

One of the guys from the Agency 2.0 marketing company had worked on another Indiegogo campaign that made over one million and then had some issues called the Kreyos Smart watch https://www.linkedin.com/in/cmolenik I hope the Storm turns out better than that.

I've had quite a hill climb with my radrhino (eu radrover 2017) https://www.komoot.com/tour/t35816702?ref=atd

It climbs quite well, it seems even at 23%+, however on this trip I had to walk the bike uphill quite a bit due to having no traction whatsoever (even on fat tires). Throttle is very helpful in those cases as ebikes are heavy as hell, so you can assist yourself with 100w-ish on the motor. In this sort of trip you really start to appreciate having 750w over 500w.

Speaking of speed, I can pedal with no motor in long ranges at 20kmh and 33kmh in shorter bursts (1km or so), assuming good conditions (flat asphalt, no headwind). With the motor on I usually go 35-40kmh in pas 2 and climb hills at 33kmh in pas 4 (in the same conditions). Fastest I went on this thing so far was 52kmh on a downhill road. It's still quite easily controllable due to huge tires and low center of mass. Obviously, it's not very safe, but I wouldn't say I feel safe on the road even at 10kmh, arguably even less so.

I imagine RadCity will go even faster due to better aerodynamics and weight and will require more careful handling.

Thanks, informative. There's a number of new players and interesting papers on the first couple pages of https://www.startpage.com/do/dsearch?query=direct+drive+hub+motor+power+density+axial

I think we're going to see something useful in the lightweight e-bike space eventually. I think it would a good niche for small efforts of enthusiasts.

^^ this, I got 200 bucks off my Radcity 4 and 75 bucks off my Radrover 6 through honey, totally recommend even if its just for your bike purchase. Goes a long way in covering taxes haha

https://www.joinhoney.com/ref/2ztxrkb

Here's a referral link for Honey if anyone's interested, I think it gives you an additional 5 bucks but I'm not 100% on that

Welcome! This is the right place, although we're still int he "growing" phase, so not a lot gets discussed here. Most of it goes down on the endless-sphere forum and the facebook group.

1) I'm just finishing up a diy battery pack made from lipo R/C packs. It's the way to go. It's a lot of work though. Lots of heat shrink, connectors, wiring, new chargers, and new tools. It's a fun though. It's the way to go if you want a fast bike. The batteries them self were only $250, but I've probably spent that much on the other stuff. You don't have to though.

2) cell phone batteries would be a bad idea. they're meant for slow discharging, and their quality would probably be very low. also you'd need a ton of them. some people use recycle laptop cells for really low powered bikes, but it's a lot of work for little pay off.

3) You build parallel groups. These parallel groups are then treated as one cell. Then you put them in series.

4) https://sites.google.com/site/shelbyelectro/ebike-components/batteries/battery-management here are some useful articles on my site about battery management and charging.

I was also looking at one of these, but realized I'd have no place for it and started looking for side bags instead, I found these and they work pretty well for small trips. I just use the bike as a shopping cart.

I sill need to buy some kind of bin like you have for my front "basket", the thing doesn't go up high enough to be usable, and has large open areas on its bottom. Thinking of 3d printing some stuff to go in there.

Gyro fixture mips. It’s lightweight, looks good, and not too expensive.

Giro Fixture MIPS Adult Dirt Cycling Helmet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RW57W3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MBS2HPQF8MVKE5XTWWB4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I had an issue just like you're describing a few years ago. I solved it by using a small d-ring mounted using one of the bolts like you have already there, like on your kickstand, rack, or fender. Then you can clip the backup safety strap directly to the d-ring. It worked out perfectly for me. Here is a similar d-ring as to what I used-https://smile.amazon.com/EXCELFU-Stainless-D-Ring-Lashing-Trailers/dp/B0824SYMMN/ref=sr_1_88?crid=8IHIQADXUEQ5&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=d+ring+with+mount&amp;qid=1632024548&amp;sprefix=d+ring+with+m%2Caps%2C192&amp;sr=8-88

See below link but please read:

I drilled the 10.2mm hole out to ~12mm to fit my axle. You may be able to find one with 12mm.

Also, I suggest a mountain bike derailleur replacement. I'm currently shopping around. I upgraded to another "casual" derailleur and it's better but the chain still bounces too much on the bumpy trails I hit coming home from work.

Durable Foldable Aluminum Alloy Bicycle Speed Change Single-Speed Modified Rear Shifting, Bike Rear Derailleur Hanger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T994K1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FE1GKNZP6RT635MRFEFA?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Lol hey dude!

I checked with someone else on here and they advised these might be sufficient.

I share your concerns for the same reason, I think I’ll pick these up too. Really better safe than sorry, that mentality hasn’t failed me yet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSE90ZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_ZERFMQN0H4F6V9SFYZ0Q

According to the specs this is the chain they use:

KMC, Z7, Chain, Speed: 6/7/8, 7.3mm, Links: 116, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NRFH81R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4AD0662SYBN9ST1JP0QC

Also Walmart sells a bike chain that’s universal which I’ve put on my Radmission while I was waiting for the correct one to arrive. It’s worked fine and I haven’t even switched to the z7 yet.

I bought this Bafang kit off of Amazon.ca.

The vendor was great to deal with. Very good communication.

The motor and electronics arrived in less than a week. The battery took about a month.

Let me know if you have any questions.

See if this fits your frame Unit Pack Power (2-5 Days Delivery) UPP U004 Battery - 48V/52V 20Ah Electric Bike Lithinum Battery for Bafang Voilamart AW Ancheer and Other https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081YLXQBJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_C7NJ5N53RZ9X9WC87QB6

Yea, downhill it fan almost fly. It is definitely on the heavier side. It is foldable but you do need a pretty good sizable trunk to transport it in the car.

I just bought a 2nd Ebike and getting it delivered on Monday. About 15 pounds lighter and with a smaller motor (350w) but should be easier to transport. 20 inch also but with regular tires. Here it is if you want to check it out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XYWG71H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_SB1A2VV83EQDHQA5M9XC

Downtube could work as long as it has enough clearance for the front wheel. the top tube could work but you might need to add a bar between the seat post and the steering tube (Something like this) for added support. Or you could get one of those rear cargo racks that attach to the seat post (like this) and put the battery on it.

Probably smart, but I figure if it's a $1k bike and you take the $450 battery with you, lock it well in a visible location and maybe put something like evidence of registration or warning about or having GPS like air tags, that should be enough to get a reasonable level of security.

Nope. When you wire batteries in series, the voltage stacks. When you wire them in parallel, capacity and current capability stacks.

For that setup, you'll need something that can support 33A continuous. The upside of SLA batteries is that they can support a lot of current. The downside is that you're going to crush 15Ah of capacity in no time. SLA batteries don't respond well to being deeply discharged.

Over the long haul, li-ion is a much better deal. Not only are they much lighter (like, half or less), but they last for many more cycles.

For 33A continuous current, you want at least a 5P (5 parallel groups) battery with good quality cells like Samsung 25R, Samsung 30Q, LG MJ1, or Panasonic GA.

Unfortunately, electric minimoto performance and "cheap" don't really go hand-in-hand. Batteries are friggin expensive.

Another option might be LiFePo4. You can get a 48V 20Ah LiFePo4 battery with a 50A BMS for $369. That's cheaper than li-ion. It's a little heavier, but not as bad as SLA.

while true that they are impacted rated for your bike, a cycling helmet compromises the protection of a full face helmet in favor of lightness and aerodynamics

you don't care about that on an e-bike, you care about not smashing your chin and teeth on the ground

Bell Servo is $60, it looks bulky but you get used to it quickly, dress for the crash not the ride

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FQT4U9C

I think you nailed it. Radmission has throttle but not stealth. Roadster is super stealth, but no throttle.

I haven't seen one up close, but wonder if you can unclip a battery from a frame and store it in a bag like this instead: https://www.amazon.com/ROCK-BROS-Resistant-Triangle-Accessories/dp/B07QM4X22Z/

oh I see, thank you. I was assuming the full 10 gears (about 40mm thick), motor, and disc brake would not fit within the 135mm frame but I guess that's not always the case. Do you think this kit is compatible like that?

https://www.amazon.com/NBpower-Electric-Conversion-Mutifunction-Controller/dp/B07S1S5418/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&amp;keywords=nbpower+ebike+kit+2000w&amp;qid=1627149851&amp;sr=8-14

It comes with a 7 speed but I guess I can just not use it.

Also is this manufacturer, Niubo Power Co., a good one? Everything I can find online is pretty positive about them.

One of these may work.

Mofeez 3" 4" 6" inch 3-Jaw Gear Puller – Gear Removal Tool for Slide Gears, Pulley, and Flywheel 3pc Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C9MRC7N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4HDP2HXHT45QTKDEZ880?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Thank you, I had to look up how to remove a valve core but it seems pretty straightforward. I'm currently looking at this

Here's another option. I used the 4 hole version to mount a 17.5ah battery to my seat tube. Works great.

Vivi

This is rebranded, dozens just like it.

This is the wholesaler.

Myatu

48V1500W Ebike Kit, Electric Bicycle Conversion Kit, LCD3 Display, 20"/24"/26"/27.5" Wheel Size, Brushless Gearless, Easy to Install and Powerful Front Hub Motor kit,Contorller Bag. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088K2W4SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_838298PKGWJKTCPT7EV7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Did the same thing being careless with my aftermarket bags not putting the strap up one time. It veered me into a curb and caused one of three accidents. Also on the lectric xp. Lesson learned. Big scar on my thigh as reminder.

Just make sure they're secured / not hanging down.

Here's the ones I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MR1UOJN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This guy says he'll do 48volt

https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Lithium-Lead-Acid-Battery-Regulator/dp/B087BC9X4S/

I don't know anything about it, but I have a similar el-cheapo deal on my boat and it hasn't burnt it down yet. I'm betting it simply has the boost/buck converter in it already, since that's kind of their job.

3x100watt panels at 12ish volts is one short of 48.

Not this particular one, but they're all the same level of sketch and awesome. The latest grin tech TorqArm_V2 or TorqArm_V3 are pretty much non-negotiable as well. Don't want 1.3 kW of yeet coming off at 25 mph.

It is an M-Wave Amsterdam L, It came with what was needed to attach to the rack but I had to take the wood panel that came with the bike off the rack, It doesnt attach into the rack but through it, screws go into a provided plate thingy that just squeezes the rack between the box and plate,

https://www.amazon.com/M-Wave-Amsterdam-Bicycle-Top-Case/dp/B00XWEG7T4/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=m+wave+amsterdam+l&amp;qid=1624551358&amp;sr=8-2

I ordered mine off ebay due to estimated faster shipping time as amazons page time said up to a month delivery time.

Dont use grease goop- this is wrongful advice as using it electronic connection will lead to damage. Electronic connections are small and use a pin+cup design that will wear down by packing goop inside leading to buildup,damage, heath corrosion and more. You need a contact cleaner with a silicone film like this

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Contact-Electronic-Silicones/dp/B008UH3NYU Now some might not be safe on plastics so be sure to test it first briefly on a cable You can also add some heatshrink on top of your connections or some vulcanizing tape, silicon rtv and so to prevent water ingress. Silicon rtv is easilly removed with alcohol so again try it somewhere first and learn how to use it in your device

Queue rainbow… “the more you knoooooooooow”

I made the box out of primed select 1x4 (reduce weight) filled holes, sanded, primed, then 3 coats of matte auto black paint.

Used 1/4 20 treaded inserts to attach panels using black hex machine screws (link below).

Panels are 1/4" auto plastic sheets (routed with flush cut bit) to match box. Then used 2 heavy duty magnets to fasten to Buzzraw metal battery base.

On top, box is ziptied (heavy duty zip ties) to frame

Link to threaded inserts:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z4KCR3F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Eh I wouldn't. Light rain isn't going to hurt anything but getting moisture in the battery and connectors could make something bug out until dry or worse. Taking the battery inside would help and the motor doesn't care about getting wet, but there are lots of little stuff on a bike that doesn't like getting wet, including the seat, riding with a wet seat REALLY sucks.

There are rain covers for bikes that are cheap and small packing that can be used though. Riding in the rain is a lot less of a problem than sitting out on a drizzly day for 8 hours, how wet important stuff gets is mostly a function of how long it is exposed to the wet.

Yeah the market is just not normal right now. A seller I looked at used to be 999$ is now 1600 it just reflects the current global market. Best of luck 👍🏽 72V 38.4Ah Lithium Battery,Ebike Battery with BMS and 5A Charger for 8000W Ebike Kit,Ebike Motor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XHLWH13/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_glt_fabc_5MMCHM7B259H70X8C1QW

Consider this.

It's a cheap way to build a hitch bike rack. You would have to purchase a cargo carrier separately and you do need to do some diy work to get everything bolted together. Probably around $150 all totalled up but a good way to get a heavy duty rack.

I like the idea, but that switch would bug me. What do you think about swapping one of the switches with a 3 position switch, and then using the other switch for the headlight?

Get some of these trunk straps. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003721CC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_KSVW0RFRT83GBWDYF31M

You can hook them between your trunk or hatchback and the bike rack. they will offset the load enough that you should be fine

my personal plan is the evo chain, that alarm and an alarmed disc lock, i have a cheap via velo u lock im considering carrying as well but honestly that might be overkill... i am paranoid about my bikes safety

the alarmed disc lock: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZD1SX1N/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2ZB0QPMORWO4A&amp;psc=1

ive heard very good things about the comfort of this seat https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cloud-9-Bicycle-Suspension-Tri-color/dp/B000H87PUI/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&amp;keywords=bike+seat&amp;qid=1622359609&amp;sr=8-20

add that to a bike seat post suspension and you might prefer riding your bike to sitting on a comfy chair

Selle Royal has comfy seats, like this one https://www.amazon.com/confort-Medium-Unisexe-posture-détendue/dp/B00GP021VA/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3521SD9326FOR&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=selle+royal+bike+seat&amp;qid=1622040539&amp;refinements=p_89%3ASelle+Royal&amp;rnid=2528832011&amp;s=sporting-goo...

well the inverter is "converting" to 120. so you should just eliminate it and maybe look at a step up "dc to dc converter". So look at your charger and see what voltage and amperage its outputting and start a search.

this: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-10-32V-12-60V-Voltage-Supply/dp/B07WDCFR1R/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&amp;keywords=dc+to+dc+converter+step+up&amp;qid=1621898649&amp;sr=8-9#descriptionAndDetails

&#x200B;

can go up to 8 amp

Like...what's your inseam? Stepover of like 36" or something?

You may be better off buying a traditional bike that works for you and then having a conversion done on it.

The thing about e-bikes is a lot of them are designed to hit the middle of the market, but if you're a vast outlier, there's no "Ye Olde Big and Tall E-Bike Shoppe" out there.

Competitive cyclists often have very tall posts, so perhaps you can find a deal on a much older, used competition bike and then get it converted the way you want. I see you're looking at a certain price range there, which is why I suggest used.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFANG-BBS02B-Display-Electric-Conversion/dp/B07DCL676S/

Any bike shop can throw that on there for you for a few hours labour.

there are a myriad on amazon but it mostly depends on dimension of you battery as to which might suit you. if your battery is small enough use a 'super-large' hard-shell controller box:

Super Large Controller Case for Electric Bike Controller Box Electric Scooter Controller Case Electric Bicycle Conversion Part Electric Motor Controller Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJD152P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V37BJZGBVM5X9Q693YYE

That’s exactly like the clamp I’m looking for. Only if I could find the clamp by itself. It comes in this mirror as well. SUNLITE HD II Deluxe Mirror 11.5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Q40BCO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KS5WH79RT8JGGN02YF2B?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1