You can use VLC to re-encode it to a format movie maker understands (which at best is only a short term solution - re-encoding takes and wastes time), but that's definitely a weird one:

VLC HowTo/Transcode from Windows Media format - VideoLAN Wiki

 

I have a similar setup, where I've got a video camera that records in mp4 h.264 format, which I then upload to my computer and edit via movie maker, and I've never had issues.

Definitely should look at your phone's recording settings and see if it's set to a non traditional format.

Test out Dropbox as well (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dropbox.android - it's free) just to make sure that Google drive isn't re-encoding your video when you upload it.

Another test for whether Google is re-encoding it would be to change the filename extension to a non-video one (change it from *.mp4 to *.txt for example) before you upload it to Google Drive, then change it back to mp4 once it's on your computer's hard drive.

Dropbox

Not in any way bee related, but something so everyone can access all the files they need (take your pick, plenty of cloud options). I like to keep track of a lot of things, so I have folders for each state, with each year and operation containing notes, spreadsheets and other applicable files. And of course all of the equipment.

I would recommend sending it to yourself via email. That's how I back up my data. If you need to backup more data or that is too slow for you, then you can get an app called DropBox and create an account on there. You can upload all of your files to it, then once your phone has been reset you can get the app again. Login and download all your data.

You can also get Google Drive

or

MEGA

Dropbox

1. First, go to www.dropbox.com and create an account if you do not have one already. You will need a valid E-mail address and you must have access to it.

2. Go to the Dropbox webpage.

3. Create a sub-folder of the Dropbox folder (such as "Files") and use this exclusively to store your files.

4. Next, follow the steps for your device:

Desktop instructions:

1. Download the client for Windows, Mac, or Linux.

2. Sign into Dropbox in the client and it will begin syncing with Dropbox.

3. Once it has finished syncing, you can either move documents into the Dropbox/Files sub-folder mentioned above, or (optionally) you can create a symbolic link to them. To create a symbolic link to a folder on Windows, shift-right-click in the Dropbox\Files sub-folder, click "Open command window here", and use mklink /J Foldername C:\Path\To\Foldername. To create a symbolic link on Mac/Linux, open a Terminal in the Dropbox/Files sub-folder or navigate to the Dropbox/Files sub-folder using cd, and use ln -s /path/to/foldername. Dropbox will recognize the new files and begin syncing them.

Android instructions:

1. Download the app for Android.

2. Sign into Dropbox in the app. You can now download individual files to your device.

3. Download the Dropsync app for Android.

4. Open the Dropsync app and sign in.

5. Go to the synced folders tab, and click the "+" at the bottom to create a new synced folder. Set the local folder to whatever you want (on my device I use /storage/emulated/0/Dropbox) and set the remote folder to the "Files" sub-folder mentioned above. Set the sync method to two-way and set sync enabled. Click "SAVE" and syncing will begin. Now, your Dropbox will be synced to your device in the folder you set.

iOS and BlackBerry instructions:

1. Download the app for iOS or download the app for BlackBerry.

2. Sign into Dropbox in the app. You can now download individual files to your device.

3. Unfortunately, there is no way to sync folders on iOS. You're limited to individual files.

• Dropbox

• APK Installer

• Chrome Remote Desktop

• DroidEdit

There are other apps to do each job, but if you're determined to develop from your phone, that's where I'd start.

1) Install the Dropbox app. Right-click any file and make it available offline.

2) code/text editors

jota+ [no dark mode I could find]

turbo edit [dark mode]

I<code> Go - Code Editor / IDE [dark mode | code folding / a little slow on my old phone]

3) mind-mapping

Freeplane on your desktop and the Mindjet Maps for Android app[<- BUT use the freemind/freeplane mm file format - not "mmap"]

OR

Mindomo.com on your desktop and the Mindomo (mind mapping) app.

Dropbox is great. It will auto-sync your files between computers and the cloud.

• Version history for files, so you can undo any accidental changes in the event of a catastrophe.

• First 2 GB free, can be upgraded to 1 TB if you pay, no time limit

• Available on Windows, Mac, Linux, iOS and Android (also get this for Android, also free)

Dropbox

All of these suggestions will depend on both the check intervals of the apps and the rules you apply while setting them up (like wifi-only, only while charging, etc), and the first three apps will leave the pictures on your device taking up space, but this list should get you started.

• <strong>Dropbox</strong> - backs up photos to Dropbox in the background.
• Google's Photos app (part of Google+) - works the same as the Dropbox implementation, but backs up to Google Drive / Picasa and occasionally adds "auto awesome" versions like gifs, collages, timeline stories, and snow.
• <strong>QuickPic</strong> (/r/Android 's favorite gallery app) has a feature in Settings -> Cloud Backup to back up photos to any of their supported cloud services, including Flickr, Picasa, Box, Dropbox, Drive, OneDrive, 500px, and a few others.
• <strong>Redirect File Organizer</strong> - set up automatic redirects based on folder and filetype rules. The pro version lets you connect to SMB shares (like shared directories on your laptop). Built by an active and impressive fellow Redditor, /u/santaschesthairs.
• <strong>Tasker</strong> - There's almost nothing you can't do with this app (and its lesser lookalikes), but it will take you a while to set up, and Redirect File Organizer is a much simpler and more polished experience.

There are probably other solutions tailored to exactly your situation, so use this post as more of a starting point than an end-all-be-all of photo backups.