What are /r/Beekeeping's favorite Products & Services?

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I've been looking for something smaller than a bird bath, less mosquito-y then leaving a faucet dripping, and better looking than a chicken waterer. This is perfect.

For anyone else looking for a link

I strongly recommend Honeybee Democracy by Thomas D. Seeley. It surprised me as being pretty heavy in data, details, and science, but there is a lot to be learned about bee behavior from this book. I haven't read any other books on apiculture so I can't compare this to another books of this nature. I don't believe that it is a starter book nor a how-to book, but it sure gives some insight to their behavior.

• ISBN-10: 0691147213
• ISBN-13: 978-0691147215

They're babies :D

Here's one that hatched out while I was culling comb from a removal

https://instagram.com/p/ZrlC_-K4PB/

and a video

https://instagram.com/p/ec4dS1K4Ht

These were feral European and partially africanized, so the adults were all a nice rich deep orange/gold

First let's get this out of the way: this sucks. Every year I lose a hive, no matter how small, I wonder, "what did I see wrong?" If I cant answer that, try to answer, "what can I do better?" This hobby is one of the most rewarding but also one of the least forgiving. If you have another hive, split it, and you've already got comb to start on. If you don't have another hive, buy more (or if luck would have it, catch a swarm). You'll be surprise how much further along you will be this year starting on comb with no bees, than starting with bees and no comb. Couple tidbits:

1) get some upholstery tacks like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086X75KV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_GA28DK6HR9RSPV98HC9F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Drive two into the left and right front corners of your intercover or top box, and it will provide just enough ventilation without letting too much heat out.

2) tilt your hives forward a few degrees. Not crazy, just make sure they have a downward slope from the back to the entrance.

3) if using reducers, flip them upside down so the "hole" is separated from the bottom board by the "top" of the reducer (hope that makes sense on paper, as it does in my head). By running reducers this way, it gives survivor bees a small enough gap to get over dead bees, so they don't block the exit. If enough bees die to block a reversed reducer it's probably a loss anyways.

Hope a few of these stick with you and give you something to think about going into next winter. Don't give up and hope to see you back around here.

-TH

I just finished reading The Lives of Bees: The Untold Story of the Honey Bee in the Wild by Thomas Seeley https://www.amazon.com/Lives-Bees-Untold-Story-Honey/dp/0691166765

Really fascinating research on feral/wild honeybee colonies. If you are interested in finding a wild hive look up Beelining! it's like geocaching, a scavenger hunt, and insect collecting all in one

I recommend looking up your local bee club. You can usually find someone to mentor you. Beekeepers love talking about bees and helping each other out. I also recommend Beekeeping for Dummies.. It’s in no way commentary about your skills, it’s just a good basic book I recommend to everyone. They break beekeeping down into layman’s terms for regular people.

Why do you wear those huge gloves? You need to wear something like this so you can actually hold her between your thumb and index finger like this.

Yes they will be ok unless the hive is already in decline.

There are few locations in the world where toads are an issue and it seems to be ones with cane toads. How many bees do you think a toad can eat? Its in the 20s some guy cut open toads and counted. And how many bees are in the hive? Tens of thousands. The queen replaces thousands a day. How many toads will be needed to impact the population?

Worst case situation you build a fence around the apiary out of wire small enough the toads cant get near the hive.

Here is an article in Australia on cane toads and bee hives they are more concerned with the toad population growing from feeding on bees than the toad population damaging the hives. That sort of research is repeated over and over, the hives aren't threatened.

Get a copy of Honey bee Pests, Predetors and Diseases and read it.

The nurse helping us was telling me that her son is doing a report next week on honey bees, so I'm letting him borrow an unused hive and some tools to show everyone, he better get an A.new little drone for the hive.

Did I read this right? A beekeeper, Andrew Cote, tried to blame a Times Square swarm on another beekeeper, but ended up with egg on his face because the evidence pointed right back to himself????!! That stings!

Here's a direct link to the t-shirt campaign for those who are interested. After ordering my shirt it says we need 27 more orders before they will re-launch the campaign and print the shirts.

I've never heard of cicadas posing a threat to hives. They weren't even mentioned in Honey Bee Pests, Predators, and Diseases which means its a non-issue. Bees use sap minimally, for propolis but there are other sources of sticky substances thats what the bees are after in that case not the sugar in the sap.

On the off chance you or someone else reading this thread might be interested in knowing how swarming works, Tom Seeley's poorly-named book Honeybee Democracy is available on Amazon.

This is my first real post, so i screwed it up. all my text didn't post. I wanted to inspect my new hive without taking it apart, so i bought a $20 endoscope from amazon, bored 2 inspection holes, and checked on the queen. It worked wonderfully! thought id share the idea.

scope found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BF8N44X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the pics of the queen cage and with the wire attached are from the scopes camera. if you use one, get "OTG view", the app they suggest is completly bloated with adds to the point of being unusable. OTG is the best free one of the ones i tried

the dead bees out front are about half of what was dead when the package of Russian bees arrived from Kellybees.com the amount of dead makes me nervous, so i couldn't help but want to check on them every 5 minutes :P

hope you find this useful :)

I got this from Amazon plus a queen marking cage. It worked really well and the queen is super visible. You should also be able to find similar pens locally in craft stores.

Just make sure you get a green pen for 2019.

So let me get this straight .. someone needs investors to build a beehive?!

Sounds like a scam.

Edit: Pretty much anything you need to know about building a beehive can be found here. The book written in 1888 by Mr Langstroth himself is many decades out of copyright (and therefore free). If you read this you will find that the modern beekeeping industry has been leaving out many important aspects of hive construction .. to save a few bucks.

I love these macro photographs of yours! My wife has just recently picked up photography as a hobby, so your specs are also really appreciated. Plus, It's pictures of bees, so it neatly integrates with my hobby as well! I've been going trough your recent submissions and all photographs are just amazing.

Thanks for sharing!

Don't. The cardboard will either be eaten and removed from the hive slowing down progress of already overworked bees or it will become soggy and fall apart destroying the comb the bees build. If you don't want to buy foundation you would be better off putting the empty frames in and let the bees build foundation from scratch like wfish did.

What part of the world are you in so we can point you towards a supplier and get you on track? Buy this book, it will teach you everything you need to get started. Find your local beekeeper organization and join them. A mentor is worth his weight in golden honey.

Welcome to the fold, your world just got bigger and better.....though probably not easier. Protect your hind quarters, it can be painful to get bit in the butt in this business.

Since you're in a weelchair, I would recommend a Top Bar Hive as they negate the need for lifting heavy boxes and inspecting frames from high boxes. Also, if you want to build it yourself you can design it to be the right height off the ground for you. Here are some plans for building one.

Be aware there are some issues with top bar hives; If the bottoms of the bars don't have any kind of guide for the bees to build their comb they will build curved combs that will cross between the bars and stop you from being able to inspect them (there are some ideas in the guide I linked).

I wear one of these in my suit, makes a big difference Limited-time deal: Neck Fan 2600mah Battery Operated Neckband Fan 6-Speed Hand-Free Wearable Personal Fan for Hot Flashes Home Office Travel Outdoor Sports (Navy Blue) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0888NR4M3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_BRSPM75CFPYWXZ31KP36

I use a plastic top feeder, and have had zero drownings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W4PD9KK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sits on top of inner hive cover, empty super around it, outer cover ontop of it all.

Another bonus is there is very little disturbance of the hive, and it is effectively "in" the hive. The only thing is they like to build comb up in the middle channel, but that's a minor problem.

Edit ~ I did have to drill out the hole in my inner cover a tiny bit, so it fit, but only took 15 seconds.

In my province, we have a PDF crop protection guide commonly referred to as the Blue Book which guides you to the right product for your application and how to use it safely. Our association and the provincial apiculturist have worked with the publishers to include information about toxicity to bees and responsible use. I find it handy to keep it on my phone as well as another app that provides the product label.

> Thomas Seeley's "Honeybee Democracy"

Video Lecture

Link to WorldCat entry to find the book at a local library

I just use a arduino with a wifi module to connect to my home wifi and upload the data. I used bits and pieces of code from lots of people to get it working and I am considering posting how to build something like it eventually. The link for the site is here https://thingspeak.com/channels/467202

One of the more out of the box things I've seen a FLIR camera used for.

Depending on what FLIR device it was tell your friend about this: http://hackaday.com/2013/11/04/manufacturer-crippled-flir-e4-thermal-camera-hacked-to-perform-as-high-end-model/

I think several of your questions can be answered with the UN report on pollinator declines found here

You need an entrance reducer. Order a guardian to prevent hive beetles.

https://www.amazon.com/Blythewood-Bee-Company-Guardian-Entrance/dp/B087D8R3B8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwqIiFBhAHEiwANg9szoU3H30WkUn0djKS-bnB7XtqbJKjnAgYoYFd2414xAhlQWYvr2cDSRoCvjAQAvD_BwE&hvadid=459538444711&hvdev=m&hvl...

I've probably spent 150hrs in bees this year and we are just getting started. You get stung, or you suit up like an astronaut. Many days I get a sting, sometimes none, sometimes I'm in a hive too long and get 5-6. Over a course of years that equals hundreds of stings.

I'm just saying it's rare when I get stung catching a swarm. I caught 7 last year, so it's not like I catch them every day. ;D

I rarely work bees in shorts now that I'm statistically likely to get in a forager's way (expanded # of hives), but I still work in a t-shirt, no gloves, and a light veil that costs <$5 (link below).

&#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/Camouflage-Beekeeping-Anti-mosquito-Protection-NYKKOLA/dp/B00GBL5GZ6/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&amp;keywords=bee+veil+camo&amp;qid=1619032312&amp;sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011QIYLHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_oASWFb6ZTBNYF?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 this is my favorite hive tool the j hook and 90° works great for leverage to get frames out. Hope your first year goes well. Remeber to make a plan/treat for mites.

I have made lip balm and it was awesome. I used the recipe from this book: Beeswax Alchemy: How to Make Your Own Soap, Candles, Balms, Creams, and Salves from the Hive https://www.amazon.com/dp/1592539793/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Xh2CFb8XW5KAW

Also, on the recommendation of a friend I substituted chocolate chips for a little of the cocoa butter and it made the lip balm a nice color and taste great!

Ummm....what does her hive tool look like? My mentor(therefore I as well) use this kind and it is brilliant for hive work. As is a high beam flashlight and magnifying glass for finding eggs. A cooling neck bandana would be great too.

KINGLAKE Beekeepers Polished Stainless Steel Hive Scraper Tool Beekeeping Equipment Tool Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011QIYLHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4khiFbYBG35X1

Mainly or almost all of it is honey. On page 5 I see a bunch of pollen, but nothing unusual.

The cappings are dark yes but from what I understand that does not indicate a problem. Same with the "flatness" of the capings.

Just a quick google search here: https://beekeepingbasic.com/wet-vs-dry-capping/ Is probably your answer as to why it looks so dark.

As for specific bee & hive health I recommend this free app:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ca.ab.gov.beehealth

It's got amazing information.

I had a similar reaction on my ankle, and people kept telling me it's not normal to swell up that much. You're probably having a 'moderate' reaction like I did. source

My concern is that some people say that reactions go away the more you're stung, but websites seem to say that reactions get worse the more you're stung. Lastly, my reaction was TOTALLY gone after one week to the day. Hopefully you'll see the same. Good luck man.

cool to hear from a horse owner how they actually react. on the chasing side of it though, you're right most bees will only follow for a short distance. However, if they are really pissed at you, they have been known to follow for up to 100 yards or so. src

Africanized bees have been reported to not only follow you for up to 1/2 mile, but will also wait for you outside the house (or whatever your went into to hide from them) for up to an hour. [i can't find the source right now, but I'll dig it up tomorrow]

Bike-a-Bee is looking for an apprentice. Also, consider joining and posting in the Windy City Bees group.

I'm not a doctor, and am not observing your reaction in real-time. The picture looks like a moderate reaction. If you don't have respiratory symptoms, or a non-local reaction there shouldn't be any reason to be concerned. Reference this article for more info: https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/bee-stings/symptoms-causes/syc-20353869

Here's a build-your-own http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-Honey-Extractor-using-an-antique-was/

I have a hand cranked one, I dont think it would be too hard to motorise it if I wanted too, fwiw

https://www.hackster.io/gusgonnet/internet-of-bees-120ca7

One I built is free except the hardware and you could slap a GPS module on it with a little extra work. No monthly fees. And I built mine about 2 years ago and published it 5 months ago.

> concrete form board

If you see a pic of it on https://images.google.com I'd love to know what you are talking about. I'm guessing it is something made from concrete? Not sure what you mean when you say it. :) But a picture would say 1000 words. :)

Start by buying this book, read it cover to cover and you will have a basic understanding of what you are up against. Get a bee suit and go to a bee meeting, join the club. Find a mentor and start helping him/her this year. Your mentor is worth their weight in golden honey.

Start assembling what you will need to run your own hives. Make sure you get replacement pollen baskets for your bees. This will increase your harvest. Next year you will be more than ready.

I would recommend two hives, not one. If the one goes bad it can really dampen your spirits and may turn you off to beekeeping. And with two you can compare and experiment.

Welcome aboard. I guess no one warned you that bee keeping was highly addictive, it gets in your blood and there is no cure. :) Here is another book you might want to add to your collection.

I hate using foundation due to contaminated wax and that it's another thing to buy and do, but I honestly feel the risk of things getting messy with foundationless in a lang is rather high. Given that you are starting with no comb at all you could find it's too much of a challenge.

I've had fairly good success with popsicle stick starters on frames in my custom built warre-like hives, but dimention of each individual comb is much smaller and some of the hives still needed the occasional timely intervention to set things straight. In langs there's much more space for the combs to start veering, and the bees are more likely to use the edges of lang frames for honey. It is honey comb in particular where things can get wonky as the width of honeycomb is much more variable, and the bees prefer to build honeycomb thicker than the spacing a lang frame allows.

I've seen just individual foundationless frames added to established lang colonies where it did not go well because they expanded the thickness of adjacent comb edges through the empty frame. Even with other straight combs to work with, you still need to be strategic in adding foundationless.

Here is a link to the paper.

I don't have the "newest genetic strain", but I do have the strain of bees that I developed over the last 11 years with zero treatments for mites. They produce a crop of honey and maintain lower mite levels than commercial bees including Russians and VSH and allogroomers. Oxalic vaporizers have been used across the industry for 12 years now. Oxalic acid's effectiveness and best methods of application are old news. Maybe you would care to look at the dates on these publications.

http://www.apidologie.org/index.php?option=com_article&amp;access=standard&amp;Itemid=129&amp;url=/articles/apido/pdf/2006/01/M6010.pdf

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/237117113_Alternative_strategy_in_central_Europe_for_the_control_of_Varroa_destructor_in_honey_bee_colonies

I bought this one. It works fine, but I am pretty sure there are others that would do just as well. It is basically just containerized ice cubes and an insulated wrap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FSSD1LS/

Ya know I haven't really noticed the cracks yet. I do see what you mean but they aren't falling apart just yet. I hear you though. Some of the dovetails are warping out and they are nailed. As a starter set they are fine but I've since purchased some better mediums.

Here is a link to the straps I purchased. They are called Etrack You have to purchase the cleats/tie downs/anchors as well. They work really well and if you search around you can get custom colors, sizes and type that fit your needs. I went with cam strap LS but they make them ratchet as well. Mine are a bit too long. I went a bit longer just in case knowing I may have to cut and restitch the ends.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DUZUEIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_F6TpjZQ7Wme5l

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6112D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_21E5W202S00N8RJ0QJG6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Been there. Done that. More than once. I have also found them in the dirt months later. I have found them in the trunk of my car. I have found them behind the bench in my workshop where they probably lurked for years. There is a brand new one in my sock drawer that was a Christmas stocking stuffer that I keep forgetting to take to the shop.

I must sheepishly admit that now I have quite a few hive tools.

My favorite hive tool, best of both worlds: https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Beekeepers-Stainless-Beekeeping-Equipment/dp/B011QIYLHW

I bought this one from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0163AVOVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_F8SKC2KC9XVZEA2X7PBA?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 worked good my first year. Tech support was good I ordered the motor to make it electric they were fast and helpful

You're overpaying, partly because of shrinkflation.

Here is a much better deal on hive components and explains to me why I've seen Hoover hives so much as of late.

For the bee suit, the size you pick needs to be ~2 sizes larger than the person's regular clothing. The extra space helps to ease getting in and out of it with cloths on, as well as acting as extra protection from feisty guards who decide to ram the suit to try and sting.

This tool set is just fine, the price is pretty good too. The only thing to be aware of is that for maximum dexterity, it's advised to get gloves as small as possible that still fit. Ask your mom what size glove she uses when using rubber/nitrile gloves for her hair or whatever.

The price on the package is good, but you may find better prices privately through your local clubs.

I have purchased the hand crank version of the vivo 4 frame extractor and emailed the company and purchased a motor for it. Looks like a simple upgrade and I still have the hand crank for backup if the motor gives up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SNEZVVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Q6c3Fb3YEGQNG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Aozita [12 Pack] Colored Plastic Mason Jar Lids for Ball, Kerr and More - 6 Regular Mouth & 6 Wide Mouth - Food-Grade Plastic Storage Caps for Mason/Canning Jars - Anti-Scratch Resistant Surface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0774VHT3P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_otoJFbJJSKS7E

I really like Natural Apiary's beesuit on Amazon - I prefer a full length suit because I have allergies, but their jacket looks good too. Pros for me were the fully detachable hood and pockets - it was designed with a beekeeper in mind, and I really like how many pockets there are + how deep they go. I've never been stung through one, but I will say that it can get hot because the fabric isn't ventilated like Ultrabreeze.

If you’re really ambitious they have conductive thread that you can sew into the gloves that don’t work. Might be a little tough getting through leather though. And fingerprint will definitely not work.

And if you’re using a smart phone, see if you can find a macro lens attachment for close up shots. link I got a deal on this one for $8 at Amazon.

ULV spraying?

Where I live the Air Force does aerial spraying from time to time. The spray late in the afternoon or early in the evening. There are at least two known approaches that seem to work.

For early evening one can put a tarp (e.g. a tent not draped directly over the hives) over your hives so that the spray does not settle on the hives or the bees that are hanging out on the front porch.

The approach that I use is to use misting sprinklers (see link below for example) that I have placed periodically along a piece of PVC pipe that is connected to a garden hose. I place the sprinklers on the top of the hives so that the bees think that it is raining and stay home. I put them out there at least 3 hours before the spraying and leave it up for at least 3 hours afterwards.

https://www.amazon.com/Mister-Landscaper-MLM-14F-Circle-Quantity/dp/B006ZNPBRS/ref=sr_1_6?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1530229706&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=mister+sprinkler

I found the example at Amazon but I bought mine at a local hardware store along with the PVC pipe and the PVC pipe to garden hose adapter.

The sprinkler setup is also a good way to keep the bee traffic down for family events either your own or neighbors.

PS When Zika was moving up the east coast of the US, I was prepared to watch all of my hives get killed with the intention of starting out again a few years down the road.

https://www.amazon.com/Langstroth-Hive-Honey-Bee-Keepers-Manual-ebook/dp/B0082RV49Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?adgrpid=59698365527&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwjMfoBRDDARIsAMUjNZoORuZwUhQWZOETsUgJFWeaZKvfSigCrUITUiFn2DJOxqXbq6-LFtgaAvgKEALw_wcB&amp;hvadid=274706030381&a...

Free as Ebook on Amazon

J-hook on the bottom. Definitely.

I bought a fancy multitool this summer (link below) and though I like the slimmer and more pointy hook, it just doesn't have the simplicity and elegance of the j-hook.

https://www.amazon.com/WEICHUAN-Multifunction-Scraper-Wooden-Handle/dp/B01844VG1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?dchild=1&amp;keywords=hive+tool&amp;qid=1603490842&amp;sr=8-9

Couple of items come to mind:

1) Beekeeper's Bible - Nice book with tons of information.

2) J-Hook Hive Scraping tool. Always nice to have extra.

3) Leatherman Tool - It helps having a knife, a saw, pliers, and a screwdriver all in one. Doesn't need to be fancy.

4) Bee Tool Belt. I got one made from this guy Kevin in Wisconsin. It comes with a queen cage, which is handy when you want to make a split.

5) Nuc box from a local beekeeper supply store. Mann Lake will ship $50 wooden nuc box with everything. It is good to have one in case you need to catch a swarm or make a split with a current hive.

Hope this helps!

Came here to recommend silicone molds and literally everyone beat me to it. I will share this awesome mold that I use that you can get on Amazon for $9, so there!

https://www.amazon.com/eoocvt-Honeycomb-Silicone-Flexible-Chocolate/dp/B01N028FX6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=silicone+cake+mold+bee&amp;qid=1600367894&amp;sr=8-3

This app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=github.oharkovi.bee_hive_analyzer
I was worried after I didn't see my queen so I tried this and it showed that I had bees and a queen, and the bees are behaving like normal so it should be good.

Outdoor latex is the generally recommended product. If you don't wan to use that look into Eco Wood treatment. I know guys who dip hives in it and don't do any other painting and they seem to have reasonable results.

I wear gloves as little as possible, but when I do wear them I like ventilated gloves like this ventilated goatskin gloves

I have a set of leather gloves from Amazon that have a material that goes up to your elbows. Very slim fitting but sting proof. I love them

A really good hive tool, combines best of traditional and Euro style tools. https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Beekeepers-Stainless-Beekeeping-Equipment/dp/B011QIYLHW/ref=sr_1_6

A magnetic belt holder keeps the hive tool handy. https://www.amazon.com/iGurburn-Magnetic-Holster-Wrenches-Screwdrivers/dp/B09NYCSZD7/ref=sr_1_41

I guess I'd elevate the value of scientific research on the topic over an op ed piece by someone with a PhD in creative writing, but that's just me.

Spoiler alert: the scientists are still trying to figure out the impact. To date, they have identified positive, neutral and negative impacts so there is an element of truth in Vogt's writing, but as in most everything these days there is more to the story. I heard Keith Deplane speak on this topic but can't find that presentation. He did publish a book last year that is looking at the broader ecological impacts of managed honeybee practices.

I’m amused. You asked about learning beekeeping “for a business”. Agree with all the other answers about learning bee biology and husbandry. But to answer your question about the business side see: In Business with Bees. By Kim Flottum. https://www.amazon.com/Business-Bees-Honeybee-Including-Pollination/dp/1631594591/ref=nodl_?dplnkId=0b4bfe93-f060-4ec5-8117-f67a7f6ad5e0

Not who you asked but I have a similar unit and no issues. I bought a 12 battery like this ML12-12F2 - 12 Volt 12 AH, F2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K53FG5Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and a cheap charger. The battery is more than enough to OAV both of my hives.

$30ish on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/eoocvt-Vaporizer-Evaporato-Beekeeping-Evaporator/dp/B097F8SZX7/ref=sr\_1\_9?crid=1837Y7VEXLBIJ&amp;keywords=oxalic+acid+vaporizer&amp;qid=1667780286&amp;sprefix=OXALIC+%2Caps%2C141&amp;sr=8-9

I appreciate you taking the time to answer!

This is a video I just took - I'm sorry if that's of little help - but to try give you a sense of the activity. It's pretty constant, and they've been there for about a week or so, which made me think that might be home base...?

May I be so humble and suggest some things. Disagree with the guys who said don't glue. A small for of glue will help the nail hold in place. Can repair at later date.

I use a screw drive as a hive tool.

Get some rubber gloves... Like dish washing gloves will give u more dexterity.

Smoker fuel.. burlap or card board.. in a pinch can use dead leaves or grass.

Ur bees may not like plastic foundation. Get wax foundation Mine refuse to build on it.

Go with all medium boxes. Full deep box can weigh 100 lbs. I'm to old to move those 😄 Then only need buy one size frame.

If u have any basic woodworking skill can build own boxes. Don't need dovetail joints. I build most of my boxes with reclaimed wood.

Get this book

The Practical Beekeeper: Beekeeping Naturally Micheal Bush

There are more.. but don't wanna overwhelm 🤪 If u want more DM me.

Most important Have fun..

If I was in your shoes, I’d install a chunk of fondant or candy board for winter. If they have lots of pollen I wouldn’t worry about it too much. The sugar/fondant is what’s going to give them the energy they need to generate enough heat to survive winter. I’m using these anyway: Pollen Patty | High Protein... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QWX7JF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share My bees have 8 deep frames front to back full of honey so I’m not doing a sugar supplement. I am however feeding them 2:1(sugar:water) until they stop taking it. Bakery’s throw away tons of scrap fondant every day, if you don’t feel like making it or ordering it online, call and tell a couple bakery’s your situation. I’d be surprised if none of them would just give you some for free.

Learn by mistakes.. been there done that.. Get one of these two books or both Micheal great Dee is more strict about her methods.

The Practical Beekeeper: Beekeeping Naturally Micheal Bush

https://www.amazon.com/Practical-Beekeeper-Beekeeping-Naturally/dp/1614760640

Biological beekeeping Dee lusby

https://www.amazon.com/Biological-Beekeeping-Back-Dee-Lusby/dp/1614761043

Get Beekeeping for Dummies latest edition. It actually came w the starter kit I got from Ace Hardware. Beginners Beehive Start Kit(?) by Little Giant. I have a neighbor that’s a “beekeeper”, that talked me into capturing the swarm in my backyard, but it didn’t take long to realize he didn’t have a clue. The for Dummies book was my saving grace(as well as this sub!)Read it cover to cover. Twice. It has all the info you’ll need and then some. And the back is full of coupons for some the biggest names in Beekeeping supply stores. Here’s a link for the starter kit:

https://www.chewy.com/little-giant-deluxe-beginner-hive-kit/dp/318652?utm_source=google-product&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=12692464057&amp;utm_content=Little%20Giant&amp;utm_term=&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjw4omaBhDqARIsADXULuUj2jiXGrW6UNN304SKn_Wo...

Probably ok. Next time break a cap and do a rope test. These work well too. I've found AFB a few times in commercial hives with these.

Ill give you my secret to yellow wax. Propolis. I throw a bunch in while its melting. It acts as a dye.

Also, cone filters. https://www.amazon.com/AYUSEB-Filters-Cooking-Strainer-Restaurants/dp/B09TSZDMJM/

That should work.

0.02

There is a kit on Amazon with tubes and a nice little tray to hold them and make it easy to fill them. It makes it very easy and neat - might be worth the investment.

This is it:(not an affiliate link)

https://www.amazon.com/Container-Containers-Mary-Tylor-Naturals/dp/B06XCP6PZK

Don't use a fogger. They have fallen out of favor as they are really hard on the bees and not especially effective. If you choose to ignore the advice given and you proceed with using a fogger then whatever you do, do not use isopropyl alcohol. Fogger recipes used ethanol. Ethanol is the kind of alcohol in your beer. Use plain vodka or Everclear which are pure ethyl alcohol. Don't use denatured ethanol, it has additives that make it poisonous. Don't even think of using a fogger without goggles and an organic vapor respirator.

If you are looking into using a fogger my guess is you do not have a vaporizer. If you do not have a vaporizer but you need to treat for mites then watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3cKxGR5By0 This is a highly effective and scientifically proven way of treating mites (See Randy Oliver's research as Scientific Beekeeping). It also inexpensive and incredibly easy. In the video a 600g/600ml/35g mix is used. For smaller scale treatment, if you are using oxalic acid dihydrate you can use a 200g/200ml/15g mix, or if you are using non-hydrate oxalic acid you can use a 200g/200ml/12g mix. I use an inexpensive pocket scale for weighing. I don't recommend mixing less than 200grams sugar in 200ml of water for the spray bottle applicator as the spray intake tube needs to remain submerged during application for you to have a consistently metered spray. Prime the sprayer before applying to the hive. If you have only one or two hives you might want to consider using a syringe applicator instead.

Entomologists (insect scientists) prepare insect specimens by putting isopropyl alcohol on a cotton ball and placing the cotton ball in a jar with the insect. The isopropyl alcohol vapor from the cotton ball kills the insect quickly. Why ever would you imagine fogging a hive with it?

There are a few tips. First of, using Honey B Healthy helps as it has a little bit of bleach in it, plus a ton of other stuff that makes the bees want to eat and store it. If you don't want to pay for it, a teaspoon per gallon will also help keep stuff out and allegedly even helps promote healthier brood!

In addition to just adding Bleach, a 2:1 mix will take much longer to have stuff growing in it bc it has too much sugar in it for things to grow (Which is also why honey lasts for so long).

These are the ones I ordered. Of course, they're just regular work gloves without sleeves, so you need something to keep the bees from getting in between the gloves and your jacket cuff.

I have a few pairs of These. No stings through them and they survived a trip through the washing machine.

I second this, always put something with your sugar water. I like using this supplement in the hard seasons.

Thanks for the advice. Is there a functional difference in an escape board and using bee escapes with a inner cover? Like these

It’s got a lid with little holes so the liquid can drop out slowly but I’m pretty sure they also stick their face in their to get the water.

Here’s a link. VIVO Beekeeping Light Wood... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K925XYL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use a file holder to put frames on when I’m working alone. Or I use the hive as a hand and rest one end of the frame on it.

I wonder if you would benefit from one of those magnifying things jewelers use. Anyway I only got 3 cells out of ten so you’re ahead of me, and it’s not like eggs are hard to come by

Sugar ants are a major problem here. Ants cannot hang onto Rustoleum Neverwet hydrophobic spray paint (two part spray paint type, not the fabric spray with the same name). I just used it on a new hive stand. It's hilarious to watch the ants trying to stay on it. I put a plastic disc painted with this stuff on the stand leg. Ants have to climb upside down across the plastic disk to continue up the leg and when they try to do that they fall off.

I'm going to try flashing next with my Warré stands which are similar to what you pictured. You could wrap your stand legs with aluminum flashing and paint it with Neverwet. I'm fairly sure that would work.

These suits are amazing. I have never had a sting go through. Me and my partner both use these. Humble Bee 421 Aero Beekeeping Suit with Fencing Veil https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B085V4MX5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_60KX807NK17QZXHQ533W?psc=1

There's quite a good and old documentary, it's in German though. But you can see how they have been traditionally used: https://av.tib.eu/media/11311.

As far as I can tell based on this book (https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Torben-Schiffer/dp/3818609241/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1YSMHC854O7S3&amp;keywords=nat%C3%BCrliche+imkerei+torben+schiffer&amp;qid=1657185133&amp;sprefix=nat%C3%BCrliche+imkerei+torben+schiffer%2Caps%2C54&amp;sr=8-1) you don't have to apply that much maintenance. By limiting the available size the bees will clean each other more. This also leads to more swarming activity though. I can't harvest any honey though with the current setup.

Pulled 19lb off a swarm I caught this spring. I used this Amazon extractor, worked well.

CREWORKS Electric Honey Extractor 2 Frame, Honey Extractor Separator Bee Frame Spinner, Honeycomb Bee Frame Spinner, SS Motorized Honey Extractor Beek https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PVGBQVJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_O7bGuqqDoTyyR

For predators I'm told you want at least 1 joule; I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0079GH4ZW. My area is lousy with bears, but my hives are the one thing they will NOT mess with. One literally ripped my pear tree in half the other day (RIP), then clearly started yanking on the top fence wire around my hives and decided it was a bad idea.

You don't need to bait it with bacon or any of those tricks, just make sure it has a good ground and they won't mess with it. It's strong enough.

I swear by the Bug Bite Thing. I’m a mere beginner beek and my girls have been astonishingly forgiving, but all manner of other insects live to munch on me. This little gizmo sucks whatever bug juice they hit me with completely out, if I get to it in a few minutes. Steeply decreases the itch of mosquito bites and is supposed to allow you to remove ticks without breaking their heads off.

Get a Brix refractometer . IIRC, so long as it's between 15-18%, it's shelf stable. Botulism can't survive is that environment. But the spores can still be there, which is why it's not recommended to give honey to anyone under 1-2.

Don't even worry about vacuum packing it. Just make sure a lid stays on so it doesn't suck up moisture from humidity.

I've been using competitive advantage paint markers for my queens and the bees don't seem to try and remove it as much.

Competitive Advantage Enamel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PC2N78R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I would not move them. This is a one way door on Amazon Link.

You can make a 3 to 4 in inch shim to go on the bottom (above the bottom board) You would have 2 or 3 of these going in and 2 or 3 going out. An hour before the workers arrive you can plug the exit holes leaving only the entrance ones open. I would install the shim a few days in advance so they know how to use it and add a feeder on top, if you need to feed. Just keep an eye on the feeder...

OP, this hive is a loss, but a strong enough fence will definitely keep a bear off next time. I understand conventional wisdom is at least 1 joule; mine (this one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0079GH4ZW) is 2 joules, and bears will get into everything else on my property but will NOT mess with my hives. No peanut butter or bacon trick necessary, just set and forget.

Sorry for your loss, that sucks.

Check these out https://www.amazon.com/Beekeeping-Gloves-Durable-Double-Leather/dp/B07WZJDX44/ref=mp_s_a_1_30?crid=1OWUG0NC7LOCR&amp;keywords=goatskin+beekeeping+gloves&amp;pscroll=1&amp;qid=1654800920&amp;sprefix=goatskin+beek%2Caps%2C76&amp;sr=8-30&amp;wIndexMa...

Not sure how the sizing chart works for you

We purchased this one. Works well, though the velcro at the veil zipper leaves some to be desired. We tape the bottom of the zipper down to keep bees out. Also tape around the waist if we are just wearing jeans just as a precaution, though there is elastic there.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZHNDZ3X

Honeybees do not need your help. Not even a little bit.

If you want to help "the bees," the first step is to know more about them. If you're in North America, try reading Our Native Bees, as a starting point. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPQX7BH.

Past that, you can purchase or make a house for mason or carpenter bees. Or you can study up on native wildflowers in your area and plant some around your home. Potentially, you could even tolerate some extra overgrowth at the edges of your yard, to give them a place to nest.

But don't try to start keeping beehives to "help the bees."

I was just going to post <strong>THIS.</strong> It's what I use.

However, I like the price of <strong>THIS ONE</strong> better, but I've never used it.

I have an app called Apiary Book (Play Store link) which helps me keep organized.

If it's a short inspection, I'm checking seams of bees, evidence of eggs and capped brood, levels of honey and pollen, if they're roaring and showing signs of stress. Noted is if a box was added or anything special was needed or seen/experienced. Then post-inspection care write-up for next week to next month's care.

Surprised not to see any Dewey Caron books in here.

This would be my 1 book recommendation (but really no book will get you there much better to take a class with your local beekeepers organization)

https://www.amazon.com/Honey-Bee-Biology-Beekeeping-Revised/dp/1878075292