The car is nearly 2 decades old and those exhaust junctions have likely seen some aggressive heat cycling. Just remove the pressed in stud and use a new conventional nut and bolt. Go stainless and it won't rust out again. This tool works great to pop out studs.
Thanks dude! The headlights are still the oem ones, I’ve painted the housings a matte black and added an led strip from amazon
2pc 24" Amber Sequential Switchback LED Strip Light tube Kit DRL Turnsignal White Daytiem Running Light for Headlights Retrofit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JH4NZ1?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Then I just sealed them with some $8 sealant from oreillys
2008 Z owner, went through the same search as you =)
I ended up going with an Android deck, it's so nice to be able to link my phone to the stereo (Also have micro sd). Plays video and everything else amazing ( You can make it control lights etc.)
I had to buy a wiring harness from Fry's and did the installation with a friend in about an hour. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-Pure-Android-4-2-Full-Touch-Car-PC-Tablet-double-2din-7-HD-GPS-Car/32329295225.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.vtnyKy
I highly recommend going with this deck. You can spend 600-1000 at a mobile stereo store if you want to get something comparable. Touch screen, no lag, plays video, full EQ, and you can download android apps on it
If you pm me I can send you pics or anything else.
Spend like $50 for one off amazon and have it shipped quickly. Being able to roll up your window 3 weeks sooner is worth the extra $30 to me.
You can actually get chrome painted bulbs that still light up orange. I have them on my Z and they look great. Here an amazon link... it seems like it's a motorcycle thing. You could also go led too. https://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Amber-Wedge-Globe-Signal/dp/B076JGZS7L/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=signal+chrome+bulb&qid=1563381438&s=gateway&sr=8-7
You need a wiring harness like this one: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-ROEM-NIS2-Interface-Integrate-Amplifiers/dp/B000CE9OY2
and a headphonejack to rca Splitter like this https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B007K8RVHU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can wire everything together and it will work with the bose amp. You can also plug in an aftermarket amp.
Amazon: 2 In Stock
https://www.amazon.com/Invidia-HS02N3ZGID-Cat-Back-Exhaust-Titanium/dp/B0051D34Q8/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Invidia+350z&qid=1628012417&sr=8-1
I know you didn't ask but.... have you heard this exhaust? It's slightly above stock as far as sound goes. I had it and sold it for the HKS exhaust. It does sound deeper than stock but it is not loud at all.
There are several aftermarket solutions for this, personally i used the PAC SWI on my G35. Five Star Car Stereo made a very helpful video i followed. I believe it should be very similar for the 350z. You're gonna have to splice the SWI harness into your cars harness. The PAC also came with detailed instructions. The only thing I'm not sure about is if this will work with a "Joying" headunit as i believe it can only work with major name brands ea pioneer, alpine etc. Hope this helps.
I picked them up off amazon from a brand named ACANII. Here’s the link: https://www.amazon.com/ACANII-Headlamps-Fairlady-Headlights-Passenger/dp/B07FP27KMQ It says it’s sold out now, but I remember there being a lot of listings with the same pictures, I just happened to order those ones haha
Those would be the fender liner screws. A lot of those also screw into a removable clip, so I would check to see if those have fallen off as well, because they probably have. this is the oem set, but if that’s too pricey, you can always buy a generic one like this. So those clips stick onto a hole behind the fender liner and then you use the bolts to secure everything in place. I don’t know the exact size of them, but I can always go measure some extras I have laying around if you want to go to a hardware store and get them.
There are a few that fit, I personally like the Acura RDX/MDX because it flares at the bottom and meets the antenna mount flush like it was meant to.
Out of stock, but this is where I got mine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082ZXK44H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_JYE2SFBFYVZW4DSM7MYJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It came with the thread adapter that works, and I swear my reception is even better than before. Maybe my OEM antenna was broken from being flapped around for 13 years, idk.
You can see that one on my car if you look through my post history. Edit: no you can't! I never posted a picture of that side of the car lol.
Very nice work, I need to do this to mine. Did you consider using any harness style connectors to make all the gauges and all the sensors connect / disconnect with only 1 plug? I found something that seems like it would work great.
It might be too late but I've made post here before reminding everyone to grease their door seals using silicone grease or this
Clutch fluid doesn't usually get dark without an issue, might be that your slave or master is failing, or that you still have a little air trapped.
If you are doing this on your own I would suggest a vacuum bleeder. This little guy works great for clutch/brake jobs, wish I would have bought one sooner.
I bought a cheap automotive pry tool set from Amazon for a couple of bucks. These are the ones I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To take the driver's side panel off, I shimmied one pry tool at each end of the panel that runs perpendicular to the door, and they popped out. After that, you need to pull the window switches out. I couldn't get the clips with my fingers, so I popped them out with a pry tool.
The passenger is a little easier IMO. You need to pry out the aluminum finisher on the door handle first, then there's two 10mm bolts that you need to unbolt, then the door handle will come out. After that, you should be able to get the passenger switch cover by hand. The clips to get the switches out are the same.
After I dipped mine and put them back in the car, I found a good tutorial on it (figures, lol) by someone on Youtube named AnthonyJ350. I painted mine a fair bit differently, but dissablemly is mostly the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vopxhHPTGA
He also has a lot of other tutorials for our cars, so he might have a video on the center console. I've put in and taken out an aftermarket head unit in mine so I've done it, but I can't remember exactly what's in there.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FNYW8F8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I ordered these OEM 03-05 replacements over a year ago. Zero issues so far and still as clean as the day I installed them. If you have the factory HIDs, they are a direct swap. Just transfer over you ballasts.
Here is the original post of them. Some more info in the comments of the thread.
Is this it?!
2 KeylessOption Replacement Keyless Entry Remote Control Key Fob Compatible with KBRASTU15 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTHU1QM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_AVUlwbQM9BG6Y
I have a key with a chip in it
And comeback with error code. It's not rocket science.
uber cheap. i recognize the parts in the kit. The lights are good enough, but the sensor is trash and will likely need to be removed from the system eventually (no sound pulsing). But for 10 bucks, it's a must have, even if u just put them on your speaker box or floorboards as basic light.( lol point being, the lights are worth more than the kit costs)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VKS2N7N?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Imo, doesnt look bad at all, its the deviation from the oem curves that i dont like. Looks fine tho. You're gonna have to change more lines to make it work overall, perhaps a vented hood or an Amuse rear end will balance it out.
Google says that's a 45W fast charge. So you'll need a usb port with at least 3.75A. Any decent charger with those specs should work. This was the first result on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Undersized-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B0B3XCWYMR/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=REWHB9IBLOOE&keywords=45w+car+charger&qid=1664032224&sprefix=45w+car+charger%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-4
Sorry for all the questions buttt😮💨 I’m looking at these hood option?
I’m also gonna source the sealant like you said and also last questionn I hope lol. I’m gonna have to torque everything a certain way right?
The red Amazon ones fit like a glove. Just use OEM gaskets or FEL-Pro's. The blue ones are for FWD models BUT will fit. Have to modify things a little. I have the blue ones on my Daytona Blue Z. IF you decide to buy them. PLEASE take out the black baffles via the little screws and clean out the aluminum shavings before installing them.
3M KTS-DL1 Design Line Knifeless Tape - 50m (164ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJJ3SG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TP8PGFJ4NMF1PPKGEY8W
JIFETOR Fuel Injection Pump Pressure Tester Gauge Kit, Car Gasoline Gas Fuel Oil Injector Test Manometer Tool Set 0-140PSI, Universal for Auto Truck SUV Motorcycle ATV RV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BKWZY75/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0H1025HBDCJR2WSPX8BJ
These are the tips that i bought. The SLP Loudmouth i got from my brother and the Y pipe was fabbed at the shop i went to
And if you have a 2003-2005 here’s the one for those Spec-D Tuning SMD Led Hid Projector Headlights Head Lamps Black Compatible with Nissan 350Z with Factory HID Headlights 2003-2005 L+R Pair Head Light Lamp Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751KRMWP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4PTP3AE3R9K63CD6G93J
Spec-D Tuning Led Signal Projector Headlights Head Lamps Black Compatible with Nissan 350Z with Factory HID Headlights 2006-2009 L+R Pair Head Light Lamp Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751WBDBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XNCBAN3TTMQ9ZVX9G8Q6
This is what we used to do headliners on the aftermarket sunroofs we installed at the last shop I worked at. Might be the best contact adhesive available.. but you’ll need a cheap spray gun to apply it. DAP Products Weldwood Landau Top & Trim HHR Solvent Type Spray Grade Contact Adhesive 1 Gal, Natural (070798-002333) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IH3HAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GSZPR53B5JBM9C2420B8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yes its fine to drive without one for a few days. You can get them on amazon for about $30. I've had my amazon one for over a year just make sure you secure it well.
​
ex: https://www.amazon.com/JustDrivably-Replacement-Driver-Section-Compatible/dp/B09B1ZGX3J
Thank you - its just an unpainted polyurethane lip i got on amazon
Lol funny that you say Amazon because that's where I got em. I noticed another user on here and replaced theirs with the aluminum ones from Amazon. He layer updated on how amazing they were. I believe they were behind on production. Here is the link for the covers if you'd like to look. Also no oil as my new coils and plugs came in late to I had to that as well.
MITZONE Upgrade Aluminum Valve Covers Left and Right Compatible with 2003-2008 Nissan 350Z Infiniti FX35 G35 M35 VQ35DE 3.5L Part # 13264AM600 13264AM610 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GLWK4Z3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_M1AGQ6VNWQ6SDEVK0AXH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
N1 Style Front Bumper Lip, Poly-Urethane, Flexiable, Unfinished (Hand Prep And Painting Required), Compatible With Nissan 350z 2006-2009 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016OZRHHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NKDVW3Z7RJZCHDPMDK5C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 probably this
Ah, I gotcha. The reason I ask is because you can save a bit by just replacing the fan motors. That's what goes out. You can get the motors for about $35 a motor. They are REALLY easy to replace and I have personally saved quite a few people some money by just changing out the motors. You can get them here. Takes maybe 30 minutes to change them out.
Sure, it's just a VAG-COM K-line cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/VIMVIP-VAG-COM-Scanner-Compatible-Volkswagen/dp/B00K6498D0
The actual software used for reading/writing to the ECU is called nisprog, and Romraider is used to modify the ROM binary. It only works for -06 and older 350z and other nissan ecus that accept flash commands via the K-line. So unfortunately HR engines can't be tuned with it yet.
There's a short tutorial on how to flash the ECU here: https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=14867
You tried switching the oil pressure sensor? I heard those tend to go out bad, if you want you can buy an oil pressure tester to be sure that it’s running fine as your changing the sensor
Here’s the rear Evan-Fischer Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing Compatible with 2003-2009 Nissan 350Z RWD With Wheel Studs, Set of 2, Driver and Passenger Side https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5PVFLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_87F3802Z1X23WH972ZE4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here’s the front Longgo - HU513268 x2 Front Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly 4x2 (Set of 2 Pcs) For 2003-2007 G35 Coupe RWD 2003-2009 350z https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T2R3X3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C368H064SV7VFWSV9S1B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The one I use for my Z. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 works fine and it automatically turns on and pairs with my phone when I turn the car on.
Try this cheap alternative from Amazon. It’s in my wishlist.
ACECAR Head Up Display Car Universal Dual System 3.5 Inches HUD, Speedometer OBD2 GPS Interface, Speed, Engine RPM, OverSpeed Warning, Mileage Measurement, Water Temperature, for All Vehicle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQ9LTGX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_GWDNAE0DXXPPPW4EYC6P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
EWK 12 Pcs 5 Ton Capacity Wheel Bearing Removal Tool, Bearing Splitter Puller, Bearing Separator Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085VVVGLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1H8H7Z63NETKRJBX0W1P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
SCITOO PS417 25070-CD00A Oil Pressure Sensor Switch Fit 2003-2009 for Nissan 350Z, 2005-2006 for Nissan Altima, 2005-2008 for Nissan Armada, 2004-2009 for Infiniti QX56 Oil Pressure Sending Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PWGNJ7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3ETWHPY9DAE4AD4WAES8
This it?
I found some RAYS lugs that perfectly matched by black center caps and jumped on them. They were 100$ but looks like they’ve gone up.
RAYS W1712125B Black (M12 x 1.25 Thread Size) Hex Lock and Nut Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGN2XB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_FRAYSASR6XMZ0MRJ3S1Z
You can take that PPF that's right in front of your rear wheels off with a drill and this eraser wheel attachment. It's also 15% off right now :D
I just bought myself and fixed in 15 minutes, my 2003 door handle doing the exact same thing. Link here on amazon. Its the plastic piece that pulls the mechanism that breaks. You could probably find something similar if yours isn't 2003.
Link for reflectors :)
iJDMTOY Front Bumper Switchback LED Daytime Running Lights Compatible With 06-09 Nissan 350z LCI, Exact Fit Bumper Reflector Replacement Powered by White & Amber CREE LED Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015S18BI8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QVG95MNW5R019BY24PDR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Horsehair brush likethe ones for deep cleaning leather shoes and either a silicone spray or a vinyl cleaner with a restorative coating. I use Meguiar's M40 Mirror Glaze applied with Fasmov 100% Natural Fine Horsehair brush. I spray directly onto the brush to avoid overspray and gently brush the surface until the dirt and grime are gone.
I struggled with bleeding via the factory bleed procedure and decide to do a vacuum bleed, used this tool and have never had an issue since
UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRH5G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_TJ4D9QW9RRA03A9JVFQ3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hmm, I have never had any whine at all with my setup. Make sure the filter is grounded properly. I did need to buy some ferrite clip on filters from amazon for the stereo cable though that helped with any random interference from my cell phone or when the tablet is connecting over 4G. They are pretty inexpensive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKBPYB9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Even with all the hassles that come along with this setup I love it when I am driving to work. My biggest annoyance is when I let the tablet die and it auto adjusts the brightness to nothing and I have to try to get it visible again.
Generally yes but the one I have is
Mestart OBDII OBD2 Bluetooth Car... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you have Android, you can get Nissan Datascan II from the app store
Dude woke up swinging. At least have some breakfast first.
It depends on what your goals are in the long run. OEM+? Slammed show car? True tuner? Or just a daily that is in your style?
Either way, start with a plenum spacer, some lower profile spring seats for the rear to level it out a bit, (maybe some Tein springs for the rear as well.) Some wheels of your choice, and play it by ear from there.
Ah, you're right, there is Redline MT-85 now. https://smile.amazon.com/Red-Line-50505-MT-85-Gallon/dp/B019XB6FQO/
I'll try asking what they used but unless they recorded it somewhere I think they probably won't remember since the service was done at the beginning of August.
Thanks!
Nice to see someone trying something out themselves! Good on you.
You may want to pick up some sanding blocks, regular & soft blocks to get that "make the internet happy finish" pop, lol. But seriously though, a kit like in the link will make your life a lot easier when you start finishing sanding.
Trade Associates AF44L 7 Piece Dura Block Sanding Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ED8UOG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_82VPTPNDY4QQR3C00DXW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just as an update to anyone who was looking for a resolution to this problem, I ended up installing a mirror backup camera over the existing rear-view mirror (something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085RB9LKJ/ref=emc_b_5_i)
It ended up helping out immensely and I didn't have to remove the tint at all. Easy fix!
There are weatherproof nightvision-capable cameras that will stream to a PC via an Ethernet connection, if you look around long enough (I haven't; I have a friend who has). Expect to pay anywhere from $150-300 each.
Also, buy at least one of these: http://www.gearbest.com/car-dvr/pp_67201.html
Also, I suggest using a radiator funnel. It mounts to the cap opening & keeps a head of water to help prevent introducing air bubbles.
OEMTOOLS 87009 No-Spill Coolant Funnel Kit, Near Universal Fitment, Translucent, 15 Piece Set, Cooling System Funnel Allows Access To Hard-To-Reach Radiators https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A2CQSU6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0E4DRYMK7MNNP5B7G5N2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Invest in a pair of these for the future. Makes the job easy and they are very useful. I would suggest 3 different sizes so you can do a whole range of tasks.
IRWIN Tools VISE-GRIP Tools GrooveLock Pliers, V-Jaw, 6-inch (4935351)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030XMFJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4PKCHPNZG1V3GF7GTT23
Get some felt tape (link below). Then remove that part & put the felt tape any place you see contact marks or known fastening points
HushMat HSM30300 1"" x 20' Quiet Tape Shop Roll, Regular https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004J64OOO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_HM86FVPM1M2Y33TWXP60?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
SYLVANIA - Headlight Restoration Kit - 3 Easy Steps to Restore Sun Damaged Headlights with Exclusive UV Block Clear Coat, Light Output and Beam Pattern Restored, Long Lasting Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429NKWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1Z99S98KNFFBQ50JSQ4B
I will pay you back for it if it doesn’t work, I swear by this shit
Quik-Latch QL-38-LP/BP Hood Pin Kit (Black Cerakote) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNJDGKZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1JBMZYTJEMJBJEHRB6PN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 bought these for my z when I bought a carbon fiber hood. They're easy to install and they're really durable
Polish/clear coat and reseal would be WAY cheaper. Check your ballast O-Ring as well. Also too, buy some silica packets and slap one in each headlight.
I ditched the power outlet on the lower passenger dash for a universal usb from Amazon. I ran the usb cord from my alpine to the power outlet, and plugged the new usb into it there so I could remove the panel in the future without having to pull the radio. USB 3.0 Male to USB 3.0 Female AUX Flush Mount Car Mount Extension Cable for Car Truck Boat Motorcycle Dashboard Panel -(3 Feet - 1 Meter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAMU8KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SXDEJE7C4VYV946T0V6C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If he really was interested in fixing it and not being lazy, this 24.99 reader could've been more accurate and faster than any of us here in reddit
The guy above is right, we're just guessing here and without what codes it's throwing.
Hey there! It could be that the seats were moved too far and are off the track and might need to be pushed down when you hold the button down. just wanted to double check to make sure you've done this before purchasing a new one.
they sell OEM ones on amazon however they are pretty pricey.
https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-87066-CD001-Drivers-Seat-Switch/dp/B00XWF3WNW
Drill a new hole if need be but if not....
It's easier to just buy them black. Take off the old ones, slap on the new ones. Plus you'll have the old in case they break.
If you're worried about hydrolocking, there is stuff out there to help prevent that. I've read about it happening to lots of people so I grabbed myself a hydroshield from Amazon. Apparently they work, but I just threw my intake on so I can't really validate it.
Injen Technology X-1033RED Red Hydro-Shield Pre-Filter https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001CO2JGG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_B46Y2JGN4510MDDFP97Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The best way to remove hoses is with a hook and pick set. You can get something like this from your auto or hardware store or Amazon for $10. I have found them very helpful.
TEKTON 6943 Precision Pick and Hook Set, 4-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPBQK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_A7HNH1CC22FGWV36ZE0R
This covers most of the list and it works great! https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SJ1332-Jump-Starter/dp/B07892JQ1Q/ref=sr\_1\_1?dchild=1&keywords=Schumacher+Rechargeable+AGM+Jump+Starter&qid=1628099245&s=automotive&sr=1-1
Oh, it’s a cheap 11” android head unit with Apple car play. Really refreshes interior. And totally worth it for me. Here’s the link if interested.
Binize Android System 10.1 Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082NKP7X9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The only thing I can think of is Amazon for just the fitting itself. IF you need it ASAP. Unfortunately, you might have to hit up HF and purchase the Pittsburgh kit. A while back, that's exactly what I had to do. Here's the fitting I found via Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DKM4PU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know it was in this kit, I want to say its M12x1.5, and I used one of those to install a 1/8bsp temp sensor. Works great.
That sounds like a really good deal! I got a front driver side fender from Amazon for $80 ($120 now) and it fit perfectly. It wasn't reinforced like the original but if it gets dented no-biggie I'll just swap again. Only like 5 bolts holding it (one you open the door to get to) then paint and you're good there. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009DJPXX8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share The only catch with finding the lights is to know if you have the HIDs or not- or if you want to just upgrade to the fun RGB LEDs.
Umm, maybe times have changed but $117 new,. https://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA16972030524-Fender-Nissan-03-09/dp/B009DJPXX8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=350z+fender&qid=1621045237&sprefix=350z+frnder&sr=8-4 It's not lined with carbon fiber/kevlar/whatever like original, but how much impact do you think this part will really take anyways? I also see one for $78 on carparts.com .. I feel bad for the 'zip tie gang' Z though too- OP that's a bad look but I'ma shut up now and just enjoy my Amazon stained ride. xD
Of course! My idea originally was to get the cheapest kit but with bluetooth, (I'd definitely lose a remote) for 40 bucks I can't complain with the finished product 👍🏿
FYI this worked for me, and I highly recommend the Zspeed CMAK. Just wish I had done the clutch at the same time but money was tight.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP1YLDF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I believe these were sold with the factory red color.
You can buy them unpainted or you can buy them prepainted
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GRR4S8/ref=twister_B08JYVKH21?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here you go https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X1QLG68?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title
Also an FYI, you will need to get some bolts to mount the seat to the bracket. Sadly they aren’t included 🤷♂️
Lantee 50 Pcs Nylon Bumper Push-Type Retainer Clips Fit for Nissan 01553-09241 240SX, 350Z, 370Z, Altima, Cube, Maxima, Murano, NV, Pathfinder, Quest, Rogue, Rogue Sport, Sentra, Titan, Versa, Xterra https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWRW7X5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_936N6KE9HWNQ67NBF4QC
Try these
Don't know where you live but try test pipes with O2 foulers, clear the codes, see what happens. It's rare that both O2 sensors fail at the same time. Can it happen, absolutely. The smell is probably your cats are shot. As for the knock sensor, change the knock sensor harness. 95% of the time it's the harness that fails versus the actual sensor. Whenever you take off the harness, you'll see why it fails. The design of the OEM harness is hilariously terrible. I have an 04 and 06. My 04 gave the same knock sensor code. Replaced it with a new harness, code went away.
Hey got them off amazon..great lights ETINAS Car Underglow Lights, Bluetooth Dream Color Chasi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081GRLLXF/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glc_fabc_SH.6FbGQAJYXQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah they are great! Real carbon fiber, just needed a bit of heat to mold to my headlights a little better. But after that just got some heavy duty 3M tape from walmet and it’s holding up and looks great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082SR5XT7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bX1Tf9O7WdpEa
Coverking CSSZ65NS5085 Custom Windshield Sunshade for Select Nissan 350Z Models - Reflective Mylar Foam (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J41XHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YVt2FbK4NC2X3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I've had this one since 2017 and still recommend it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132K7SKO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm this is the quick release and it's on a short hub.
https://www.amazon.com/Lift-Supports-Spoiler-Bracket-Included/dp/B009IYV0JO
I bought these after someone else on here recommended them. Only $34 something and I have the track edition with the spoiler and they’re working fine thus far.
I have a kenwood ddx 9903s, it's great.
I have a G Coupe so I know it's a bit different but I replaced one of the cigarette lighters with a USB hub I bought on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XJDP12W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_U0VWAb16TBB5T
T10 168. Same size fits the rear license plate too.
I bought a pack on Amazon about a couple of years ago and haven't had any issues with them and they're nice and white. I put two up front and two over the license plate.
Here's a site I've used to find light sizes.
Window answer: my window did this before the motor fully went out. Here is an Amazon link for a cheaper motor that anywhere else I could find. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B9V9J8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TmaECb4G41JMR
I would recommend replacing it. I bought this one from. Amazon for $30 after the doorman reman one I purchased never worked properly. Has worked well for 2 months now.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FS66GLN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EqsLCbGQ1SXHQ
Make sure that everything is back together properly and do the reset procedure. Somehow my window was missing a washer where the glass bolts to the regulator which I think was causing tension due to poor adjustment. Good luck
Are you talking about another key? Or the electronic key fob with buttons to open things? The key fob can be found on amazon for under 10 bucks. They can be programmed to work with your car with a couple minutes of setup.
One example https://www.amazon.com/BestKeys-ASTU15-Dealer-part-28268-ZB700/dp/B00684TD6O
Here is one from Amazon. Not sure if it's the one they are talking about, but close.
Thanks. I like it a lot came ot good. Super flexible.
Got on Amazon.
Nissan 350Z 2003-2008 N3-R Style 1 Piece Polyurethane Front Bumper manufactured by KBD Body Kits. Extremely Durable, Easy Installation, Guaranteed Fitment and Made in the USA! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078T1NLPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9JCTDbSZCY7TR
To add to what the other guy said, you can buy a complete kit on Amazon for ~ $300. It included pads and rotors. Here is a link
I dealt with this same issue. Go check this out at amazon. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24444-Cooling-System-Refiller/dp/B01BW39HJS/ref=sr_1_7?crid=X0DIFENB6TKH&dchild=1&keywords=radiator+bleeder+kit&qid=1602968141&sprefix=radiator+bleeder%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-7
​
If you have access to an air compressor this tool is a life saver. This tool pulls vacuum from your entire system and allows you to add fluid into the system without getting ANY air back into the lines. It works like a dream.
​
Edit: I was able to return my tool to amazon after getting my use out of it. Saved me $90.
It most likely the straps. I had the same issue and bought some of these: SpyderBands Replacement Convertible Bands - Compatible with Nissan 350Z Roadster Convertible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XVRBW6T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_cAUeiao3epQBO
It worked perfectly. I did have one issue where the band came off once but you simply put it back. For ~$40 it’s worth it. You can always have new permanent straps installed later. These work perfect for a quick cheap fix. They also have a video on how to install them on YouTube.
Make sure you have a good impact and some wobble sockets, you can have the job done in an hour.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-02486A-Impact-Universal-Socket/dp/B076FNN4C6
different antenna, nicer wheels, less fugly tail lights (I like these personally) and of course get in inspected to see if anything is horribly wrong and needs fixing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xXzfFbR77A063
Here's the kit. Makes dealing with coolant issues on these cars a lot easier, especially when you need to run with the radiator cap off.