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Ive got this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Stant-12270-Cooling-System-Pressure/dp/B0002SRGWU/
It's worked on every car I've owned, though for some I've needed to buy an adapter. Bit more expensive than the one you're looking at, but for home use it's probably the only one you'll even need. I've had mine for decades.
Those are the plugs for the rear speakers. Left white and right black. They are 2 pin din bang and olufsen style connectors and the female counterparts can be found on ebay and some cheap ones are on amazon.
I used these https://www.amazon.com/CESS-dn03-2-Pin-Female-Jack-Connector/dp/B0159CJ1BC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1533970349&sr=8-4&keywords=2+pin+din. They are fragile but they come in a pack of six so if you break one there are plenty of spares. These connectors share a common ground with the front speakers. In my 83 the wiring for the front speakers goes directly to the fader switch. I just did a stereo install with four new speakers last week so if you have questions let me know.
You can see if your speakers still work by taking a nine volt battery and connecting the positive to the round pin and the negative to the flat pin. If the speaker still works you will hear a popping sound.
You can get them on Amazon It’s a really good deal I’ve never seen any other Porsche with these lights, they look great and they are nice a bright!
I just replaced my 85.5 944 radiator as well. I made the mistake with the lower rad hose rubbing on the pulley.
Even if you didn't bleed, you do need to let out the air from the bleed valve on top of the engine from time to time. I got a pressure tester and that made it very easy to bleed it out and test that everything was working correctly.
Yes! I used something like this, plus a hacked up compression tester to pressurize the cylinder I was working on. You may need to rotate the engine to a compression or combustion stroke (valves must be closed, obviously).
Sometimes the retainers were a bit stuck, so I'd whack em with a deadblow. That worked.
Be careful about losing them into oil channels, btw...Keep a magnet on hand!
Last note: I kept a clothespin on hand to hold up the valves in the event of compressor or power failure. Didn't feel like fishing valves out of my cylinders if my $100 Home Depot special compressor bit it.
From low to high in terms of cost & effort: Adjust the hatch pins (loosen the nut and lengthen or shorten them) Clean and adjust the pin receivers Replace the struts. Not with new OEM ones, they’re too strong and can even exacerbate glass separation by putting too much stress on the hatch. The ones from the Jeep Wrangler work perfect (SACHS SG214008 Lift Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BTK4UM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) Replace the hatch pin receivers. They’re pricey, but makes a difference. I ended up having to do all of the above to get mine to stop popping open.
Use a Rocketsocket if it fits. It'll remove it for sure. Don't go cheap on extractors or you'll regret it like I did.
If it's the same sensor as the 944 S2, then Amazon has the Bosch ones for really cheap. I just bought one and installed it and works great! The only difference is the leads are longer but a few zipties took care of that :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K28FTC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I just resealed mine and I used an M10 triple square bit. Mine was never taken off since the car left the lot and it was really tight. I was able to take it off with my 24" 1/2 drive ratchet but it was flexing good!
To actually remove the cam gear, I had to modify one of my gear pullers so that the arm could fit into the cam housing. It came off pretty easily with it. I cut part of the arm fork off and bent them outwards to fit the gear.
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W139-Gear-Puller/dp/B004BH8BWC?th=1
Thank you for the help, and sorry for the late reply. I have been looking around the market some more and found a 944 for $4000, but the ac doesn't work and there's a oil leak on the cam shaft gasket. I was wondering if this was worth a purchase. The interior seems to be in good condition. This is the link https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3283731901686475/
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/638860916946933/
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Here is the marketplace listing. What a weird choice for a "mud toy".
Thank you! Yeah I might as well change both and learn how to do it. Is this the one you recommend? There's a few different ones.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KM5L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_lDk8Fb4P1QMKS
A warning: When they talk about using steel wool, they're talking about 0000 grade steel wool, which is the finest grade available and definitely not what you can get from the grocery store. It's inexpensive, but you have to make sure you get the 0000 grade which may mean ordering it.
Personally, I would start by trying something less aggressive like barkeeper's friend cooktop cleaner. It's designed to clean glass cooktops without scratching them and has been incredibly useful to me in cleaning glass and ceramic surfaces. Takes some elbow grease sometimes, but very effective.
It sounds like you're well beyond a compression check at this point, but it never hurts to do one to confirm the diagnosis. Get a compression tester (such as this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SKSAB8U/ or you can often rent/borrow one from your local parts store). Remove spark plug, screw down tester, crank engine over, check gauge. Repeat for each cylinder. Doing a full compression test is a little more nuanced than that, but if you've driven your valves into your pistons this is enough, one or more of the cylinders will read at or near zero on the gauge (normally they should read above 120 or so on a cold engine).
I think you can still order the paint from Porsche, they still carry Guards red, but it's expensive. $23 for a paint marker the size of my finger... I can't imagine the cost worth a whole car.
With paint that old the new paint may stand out too much and you'll be unhappy with it even if you did a perfect job.
There are some plastic razor blades you can buy off amazon and use to scrape the paint can splatter- I'd try that before a thinner. For cost effective (and time) I would use a paint marker from porsche for the scratches if it doesnt bother you to do it that way. If you want to fill every scratch, nick and ding with bondo then you may as well repaint the whole girl when you're putting in that much effort
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Amazon razor blade example:
If you have an air compressor, you can purchase a small venturi pump to pull a vacuum on the system.
That'll let you test your conversion before paying the shop to do the charging with new coolant.
I ended up buying this: Outmate Mini Digital Crane Scale 300kg/600lbs with LED(Aluminium Alloy Case) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X1GY9K4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZParzbDNGGQ3T
Idk why I didn't just buy this to begin with. Now I can weight all kinds of stuff moving forward. Lol
thank you guys! I can upload more pics tomorrow or you could look at my history for some older shots of the outside but mine is no where as clean as most of the ones posted here, the paint is original and in bad shape and the rims are the ugly "rare" 7 slot ones.
as for the seats they're netami NT-5105 in carbon fiber black (http://www.amazon.com/NETAMI-NT-5105-Racing-Carbon-Texture/dp/B00OW7J5SA) they're super cheap and pretty hard but they hold you in really well, are super light, and look great, can't be beaten for the price honestly.