I think I have a Gen 3 August lock pro, so it does use double aa.
I took a quick look and found some cr123 rechargables . https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Batteries-Charger-FARSAIL-Flasglight/dp/B089S9RLSG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=2IP73ESFGAQST&keywords=cr123+lithium+batteries+rechargeable&qid=1669615667&sprefix=cr123+lithium+batteries%2Caps%2C252&sr=8-2
I bought these:
https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Flashlight-Replacement-Batteries-USB/dp/B09N11L6DD
Different listing than I used, but same brand, pretty sure it is the same batteries. 3V instead of 3.7V is the key to look for, most of the rechargeables are 3.7 and won't work.
Coming up on two years now, still going strong. Keep one pair charged and swap them out when the other dies so no big downtime on the lock. If it was a critical door I would do it preemptively, but it isn't. With the bridge installed I am over 2 months of battery life now, we'll see what it gets to.
Adding to this, I'm currently testing these ones.
They have higher mAH than what OP shared (800 vs 600) but they are working excellent.
The lock even opens and locks faster than with the non rechargeable CR123s.
I'll update when I have more info on how long they last.
I have wifi and doorsense enabled.
No you can't.
I use a hotel style lock mounted high on the door, and set the lock to ping my phone whenever the door is unlocked.
I had the same problem and purchased this to bump it out.
MarineNow Stainless Steel Round Ring 316 Marine Grade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K63W2MY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3Y944TCTP4A0DAG5700B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used a stack of 9 of these. I only used 9, because they filled up the hole, i.e. I am sure fewer would have worked just as well. They're the perfect diameter = 5/8". If they don't work at first, flip them around (polarity matters). You can easily test them, before you stick them in the hole. Also, you can use the remaining 6 to pull them out, if you don't get it right the first time. $8 is a lot better than $25, and you can use the extras on the fridge.
I’ve had one outside in a semi covered area on a GFCI in a socketibox without issue for a few years SOCKiTBOX – The Original Weatherproof Connection Box – Indoor & Outdoor Electrical Power Cord Enclosure for Timers, Extension Cables, Reels, Transformers, Power Strips, Lights & Tools – Large – Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006EUHT2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V7AH0BG7YX5D3HPQNNHJ
I saw some that were rechargeable via a micro USB port they had in them and were 3 volt. Apparently 3 to 3.2 volt is what the non rechargeable batteries are and since august don’t recommend rechargeables it’s best to stick to that, however most rechargeables are 3.7 volt. Also those ones link is broken and the next best ones are out of stock.
First best; EBL 3V USB Rechargeable Batteries 2400mWh 16J Lithium Battery Cells (4 Pack) Compatible with Arlo VMC3030 VMS3130 VMS3330 VMS3430 VMK3200, Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09D73FLVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6V02M0HBNG3TN2JQNPM9
Second best: SureFire SFLP123
Let me clarify, my doorbell is in position B according to these instructions
While in position B physically (in relation to the door, perpendicular) I want it to face out as if it is position A with a wedge that turns the doorbell father away from the wall as if it is straight on with the person approaching the door instead of at a 45 degree angle with the current wedge option (I have the first doorbell but the issue applies to both) which is why I originally said 90 degrees not turned but pushed out
Hope that clarifies
Official support for rechargeables is lacking because most of the rechargeable batteries in this unfortunate CR123 size are 3.7V instead of 3V, they physical size might be bigger, and the low battery notifications are not going to work right because battery life is shorter and the drain profile is different.
But these are USB rechargeable, fit in the lock, and are actually 3V instead of 3.7V:
https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Rechargeable-Batteries-Compatible-Flashlight/dp/B09D73FLVW/
The listing is updated since I bought mine, but it is the same brand and hardware. Got 4, so I always have 2 charged and just swap out when the others die. On my low use back door, that works out to every 30-45 days, I usually just swap them when I get the email it is offline, or just before guests arrive to be sure.
Working great for about a year now, the 4 pack was $20, think I am ahead on cost and way ahead on the environment already. And no sign of the battery life shortening yet, should be plenty of years to go.
August designed a system that does not officially support rechargeables. I consider that an irresponsible choice and do not recommend their hardware because of it. Fortunately someone else made a product that does the job. If you are under warranty and don't want to void it, by all means follow their guidelines. Too wasteful for me though.
I use that one, because I charge a bunch of different batteries. But I'm sure there's cheaper ones you could go with.
You can use something like this. It can't be "locked" per se but hopefully guests will get the message and try to open it. The cool thing is that you have to rotate the dial to zero so if they don't know anything about the box they probably won't be able to get it open. Nonetheless I think people are smart enough to get the idea to not mess with outlets that have a box over them
Baby Safety Outlet Cover BOX (2 Pack) Double Lock for Much Better Toddler Proofing, Easier Operation, Simple 3 Step Install with Included Screws. Provides Extra Space Inside for Plugs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N422Y1P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H33FCP2HP2WRN3D2F1VN
I have Gen4 august lock but not able to connect to google home. As per description it should be connect to google home without any bridge. Did you any problem linking with google home?
You can explore an integrated unit. Just get the August kit with it. Yale Assure Lever - Touchscreen Keypad Lever Lock - Satin Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NC6TNW3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Ycl7FbWG1T66C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So one potential thing to consider is that if you do end up finding a solution for wiring it -- you may wanna get it hooked up to some kind of battery backup or uninterrupted power supply. If the power goes out, and your only point of entry is the keypad, you could get yourself locked out.
It does seem like something such as this would work. people in the reviews mention that it can be set up to work via USB. So that could open up some interesting options for battery backups.