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Well, we can't really tell you what the mineral content of your water is but you can tell us with a TDS meter (https://www.amazon.ca/Professional-TDS-ppm-Conductivity-Meter/dp/B01FPG89CE/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=TDS+Meter&qid=1625476265&sr=8-7) Anything that's at least 15USD or 30CAD should be fine. It's actually something I would recommend everyone have and to test your water supply (drinking water) every week or at least once a month because if there is an issue it will show it (some of them will actually let you know if the water is "drinkable" with red/green lights) (PS: completely off topic but if you have tap water and water through your fridge you can actually see when you need to change your filter, and to see how much cleaner your filter makes your water, in my case it lowered the mineral content by a few digits)

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You always have to PH water, the only time you don't PH water is with outdoor grows ina large amount of soil (even then I still ph water if possible). Eventually (in a container) the ph of the soil will change depending on the water you add and the nutrients.

I would make sure you're getting good PH down, but it's kind of widely known that it takes like 3x as much PH down to get the ph down as it does ph up to make it go up. Make sure you're leaving the water for 20 seconds at least (as well as mixing/stirring it) before testing the water. I like to let the water sit for maybe a minute or two between tests and stirring so I can be assured that the chemicals have been evenly distributed throughout the water.

I'm pretty sure there's a section in

Marshners Mineral Nutrition, 3rd edition

If I remember correctly and its the right book it speaks about:

• How high RH makes cuticle wax more liquified and passes it easier
• Which minerals passes easiest and is most applicable for foliar feeding, as I remember calcium is high on that list
• Which minerals the plant matter is mostly made of

Its a heavy book, but it has good parts! I recommend.

Do you have some sort of press for the sap and a cheap refractometer? That's where to start for measuring brix content.

Analysis beyond brix, EC, and pH gets expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Brix-Refractometer-ATC-Dual-Scale/dp/B01LW2ZU6R

https://www.soildoctorconsulting.com/sap-analysis-guide

Right now I am testing this and comping it to the sensor I built myself:

Aideepen Capacitive Soil Moisture Sensor Module, DHT11 Temperature Humidity Sensor ESP8266 ESP-32 WiFi Shield with 18650 Battery Holder for Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VX1DWKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BYRPJ383M71EF0E47M94?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have had a few issues with it. I was really interested in the battery functionality. It would save me a ton of time building another PCB if I could get it off the shelf. Unfortunately these guys took some shortcuts and I have had two fail on me. Also DHT based sensors can be inaccurate but I am just experimenting right now.

Here is the link to what I am using:

"Bio-Silver" Ultra Colloidal Silver Spray, 240 ppm, 2 oz (59.14 ml) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LUUMFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2YYGWZF3ND0F17PARFRE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

240ppm is way more than you need. I have diluted this down to about 100ppm, which actually may still be overkill. But it’s working wonderfully so far.

I’ll know more in about 90 days when this Auto is chopped and I do the first run of these seeds.