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Not the same bike but lucky for you dudes I just installed a straight steer - tapered head tube conversion headset on my Axum, here’s my video and a link to the headset that will get you where you need to go:
Schwinn Axum Build Part 1: Bottom Bracket, Crankset, & Fork! https://youtu.be/OP3H4_5WySE
Yosoo Health Gear Bicycle Headset... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CZVLCDR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yeah this is the one I used myself! Worked well enough and I couldn’t complain. Make sure you’re using the side of the eraser wheel and not trying to use the flat face, I made that mistake at first.
S SATC Decal Eraser Wheel 4 Inch Pin Stripe Removal Tool 1 Pack Adhesive Remover Wheel with Pad & Adapter Graphics Removal Tool Eraser Wheel Decal Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZNGPY8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZGV993D95K9BDHW9PZEN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
you need the rear caps for QR though. JG bikes sells them directly, contact them through their website for a link.
The stock saddle on the Bohe is atrocious. One of the problems it has is that it flexes like a hammock because the shell is thin AF. That sounds like it would be good for shock absorption and comfort, but what it actually does is throw the geometry off so much it's uncomfortable.
I'm 39 and I have packed on the pounds over the years, so I decided to look for the most comfortable saddle that isn't a mile wide beach cruiser style. I settled on the Planet Bike A.R.S. Standard .
I tried for days to measure my sit bones, which is the key to getting the right saddle, but just couldn't do it without specialized equipment. The gel zones on the A.R.S. are almost in the right spot, but not quite. The saddle is still firm when you first get on it, but this is supposed to actually help, because a saddle that is too soft will sink too much in the first couple miles and actually reverse the comfort level.
It's still not my holy grail saddle, and it still took me weeks to get my sit area toughened up enough after not riding seriously for 10 years, but it's a hell of a lot better than that torture device they installed on the Bohe. Wish I could compare it with the other A.R.S. versions. Note the confusing model names with the Planet Bike saddles.
Unfortunately on the Axum you will have to change your crank. I believe most budget riders are upgrading the crank and the bottom bracket at the same time. Upgrading the cranks will allow you to remove/replace the chainring (front sprocket).
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Bicycle-Bottom-Bracket-Chainring/dp/B0979L8DQ7?th=1&psc=1
The OEM chainring is pressed on and not designed to be replaced by itself.
Cheaper to just buy new rotors. Cheap rotors that come on these walmart bikes can sometimes be wavey instead of flat.
These are the ones I've ordered and so far all of them have been good. I've ordered 6 in total in the past few years. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C3L36FJ
Brake stopping power is probably just the pads on these bikes. They typically won't lock up the wheel easily. Maybe the back wheel. I'd suggest getting some higher quality pads.
I did the same on my first real ride out - I didn't tighten it enough. I saw you're getting a replacement but I prefer polymer ones like these: https://www.amazon.com/Puroma-Mountain-Non-Slip-Bicycle-Platform/dp/B07RXW7D1N they are lighter and have bigger surface area.
Bike Chain Guide MTB Bike Protector Road Bicycle Mountain Cycle Chain Guide Tensioner with Hollowed Design for Single Disc Sprocket, Front Dial Smooth Driving(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQ38C91/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_C70ZEDZHVEH2MHRY8SGN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
ZTZ MTB Hydraulic Disc Brake Front Rear Calipers Set ，Aluminum Alloy Right Rear Left Front Disc Brake Levers for Mountain Bike and Road Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VRYDN3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DCXGEEYS4C9096XEK6DT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 For the brakes, they are very budget , I purged them correctly, they work just fine, levers are made of aluminum, they dont feel very cheap.
Something like this is what I'm thinking, doesn't have to be anti theft though.
***I don't know if these are the correct size. I have an Axum DP
Inserting the hose insert is difficult without the proper tool. I have this tool and is great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HP92S5K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You will need a new tubing insert and new olive to install the hose. (get extras) Other than that it is fairly straight forward.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KRM14MD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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i am 5 10, it works out perfect so far
This is what I bought:
JGbike MTB 32 Hole Quick Release and Axle hubs for 6 Bolts Disc Brake Mountain Bike Bicycle, Front 100mm/Rear 135mm & Front 100mm/Rear 142mm, Including Exchange end caps https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07Z2P9S3Z/
This whole thing has been a learning experience, didn't know anything about bikes even last summer. I reused the stock rim and spokes, but I will say that these hubs are NOT the same size as the stock hubs. Flanges were wider but shorter. I am not sure if I was stupid or lucky, but I figured those two things canceled each other out and just reused the spokes instead of doing the calculations. From what I've read about how far in they're supposed to go they seem about right. I also learned after removing all the spokes from the stock rim that the left side and right side are not the same length as each other.
For trueing and dishing the wheel, I have an old bike that I removed the old rear wheel , flipped the bike over, and put this rim on, then just took my time. A little bit each day over a few weeks and it turned out really well IMHO. I'd spin the wheel and then use my fingers to run along to the rim. If the room moved off my finger or friction got more intense I would make an adjustment on a few spokes, then repeat.
I found a few park tool videos to follow that made it straight forward to lace up the rim and understand how to true and dish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BMTYN9L/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=A3BXMG40I90MJ3&psc=1
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If you don't mind spending 40 bucks, this is what I'm buying
What about these? They also have 170mm rear qr.
CyclingDeal Bike Bicycle Wheel Hub Non Quick Release Lock Skewers Set 5mm - Prevent Removing Wheels by Hands https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DMYPWYS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2FH8T4P77SVSFDXDF0V8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Or these
AiTuiTui 1 Pair Bike Quick Release Axle Skewer Bicycle Hub Parts, Front & Rear Axle Hollow Shaft Kit Replacement for Road Bike, Mountain Bike, MTB, BMX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X2C4L1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_F34ADE2WNR0YR8WY5D1X
You can put this adapter in a thru axle hub so it can work with quick release skewers.
How 'bout a bike computer? I love these - I have 10 bikes and all but two have CatEye Velo's on them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DS4AJEG/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_1?smid=A2G7B63FOSFZJZ&psc=1
I’ll start - I picked up a pair of the fooker pedals and they are much better than the stock ones: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D66NDS3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q9R6DTM92BR5A7Q0AA37?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There is no need to get a whole new rack, this is a really common problem and they make adapters just for this reason. It connects between the seat post and the stem. They’re really affordable!
Thule Frame Adapter - Bicycle Cross Bar , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KZS5GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_01MA2SPWDA77R6K8RZWT
RockShox Judy Silver TK Suspension Fork - 27.5 100 mm 9 x 100 mm 42 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085724DYB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_BGEYC0X0XM28SK2X6SZ1
speaking of... that what I saw... hahah
The Hanger you need is made by Wheels Mfg #109. I have also used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096WTG7HM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You will need to use the mongoose bolt with it.
I had the same issue with my X2, contact (call and speak to them) Pacific Cycle they'll send one out to you. If you can't wait and want to buy another hanger you can use this one, I am using this one on my X2. You will need to use the OEM mongoose bolt, the one that comes with it is too big.
GH-029
Swapped my lunacycle mid drive kit off my hybrid on to the X2. Super easy conversion. Plug and play. Components are stock. Planning to upgrade slowly. First upgrade will definitely be brakes.
Parts List: Luna Cycle BBSHD 68-73 mm Mighty Mini 30 Tooth Chainring Grin Tech Triple Bob Ebike Battery Anchor Bracket
Mixsuper Mountain Bike Riser Handlebar 31.8mm Length 720/780mm, Aluminium Alloy MTB Handlebar (Black Red Green Purple) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0956QBZ9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9ZXWCY76NX69KCH3H63S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Honestly thinking of getting them after this photo.
This is what I have. It works good for high pressure (suspension) but takes a laugh number of pumps for high volume (tires). Great for the price but I would get two separate pumps rather than a 2-in-1 if you plan on keeping them for a number of years. 2-in-1 Portable Air Shock & Tire Pump, Fork & Rear Suspension Gauge, Adjustable Max 300PSI High Pressure, Mountain Bike & Bicycle, Schrader & Presta Valve, Comes with Mount Kit Attachment Accessories https:www.amazon.com/dp/B087CYM8X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SQN23MVDBPV3X34BF8GK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Got this one on Friday and so far really liking it... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083BSBV1R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_7JX40JYBQVG4YVKJ2H6C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 (now 10% cheaper... thanks OBezos!)
Feels plenty stable for the Ledge X2. Time will tell for durability of course.
DNM Damping 3 System Mountain Bike Air Rear Shock Rebound/Lock Out/Air Pressure Adjustable AL 7005 Shark/AL 6061 Shock Body 165mm (6.5") x 35mm 190mm (7.48") x 50mm 200mm (7.87") x 55mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FLTZ2ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_QSKBP85Q6XBWS8B6T3RX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Wheels Manufacturing BB86 Bottom Bracket Threaded Together for Shimano Alloy Black Bike Pack Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018HHNPYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_CEWSYFM4EV0KKW95GJ3C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
CYSKY Bike Chain 9/10 Speed Bicycle Chain 1/2 x 5/64 Inch 116 Links Steel High Strength Bike Derailleur Chain for 9/10-Gear Road Bike Mountain Bicycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C1F699K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GHHJWQ3520Q8FWE1J73P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
TenFans Bike Kickstand, Adjustable Bicycle Kickstand, Aluminum Rear Side Bicycle Stand, Suitable for 22"-28" Mountain Bike/700C Road Bike/BMX/MTB/Adults Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L86R325/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_W00K12D0C8HBHV49NDFC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I can’t recommend it or not, but I had the same question as you and ended up buying this one today: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083BT54GX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B6T17KWMQ2S1AHNV49M8. It comes Sunday so I can reply back after I test it out. I think the one issue I’ll have is when I need to work on the reverse side of the bike I’ll have to take it off and flip it, but the price was right!
You need a bike rack adapter like this one on Amazon. It attaches to your seat post and steer tube, then you hook that bar to your bike rack.
Thanks brother, the holder it's a "Quad Lock"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0881N14PH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_E0GG9NKS9795EXBP636W
I haven't added a dropper nor derailleur. My pedals are "Fookers black" Bucklos fork, Jessica headset and WTB saddle and grips.
for about the same price, why not go with DNM which has rebound adjustment also?
I got an old mongoose impasse frame; Im also 6'1 but have a 34inch waist. I did add 1.5inches of spacers and a 110mm 35 degrees stem. Its harder to do manuels but I love the position of it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C69X7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here is a link to the wheel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZNGPY8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_63F2SG8YXAF2YZQX7ZY3
Some parts stores carry them. They are for removing pinstriping.
No prep work involved. Final wipe down was 3m adhesive remover.
JGBike is a reputable brand, right? What about this:
BikeHand 3 in 1 Bicycle Bottom Bracket Removal Crank Tool - Compatible with Shimano Hollowtech II Truvativ GXP External BB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P6EPZN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WC41SDHBG6EGG457FW7G
Oumers Bike Crank Extractor and Bottom Bracket Remover with 16mm Spanner Wrench, Bicycle Crank Removal Tool Crank Puller Tool-Bike Crank Arm Remover Spanner Repair Tools Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F5DN2DM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H617YESXY6V2BSWEZX60
Yeah, this one worked great for me:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZFJT1FT/
44-56 option. Worked perfectly, came with everything needed both upper and lower. Also had an adapter for straight tube forks, but I didn't use it. I put in a bucklos fork too, probably same one.
here is the link to the kit for changing your lower bracket and crank arms. This would enable you to use whatever sized chain rink you want which you would buy separately.
Oh you absolutely want to replace the headset, it's night and day difference in quality for such a low price:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZFJT1FT/
$19.99 for everything. If I swap my fork in my Axum DP, which has the same size headtube, I would not hesitate to get this exact same one again.
Yes. I replaced my fork. Top is 28.6/44, bottom is 40/56, if you're buying individual top and bottom. If you buy a kit, you'll look for 44/56.
Here's the one I used, it fit perfectly:
Jessica 【US Stock 34/44/44-55/44-56mm 1-1/8 Threadless Double Sealed MTB Bearings Lightweight Headset, fit Mountain Bike Road Bicycle Straight Tapered Tube Frame Fork Star Nut Top Cap https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZFJT1FT/
Funny you mentioned that. That is one of my upgrade projects. I already took the hub apart to add grease so I know its not hard to do. Here's the kit i bought, if you're interested.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YR7G78D/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o08\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ya might as well replace the whole headset, get rid of the cage bearings and go sealed. Here’s the one I used. Very cost effective, and works great so far.
Yosoo Health Gear Bicycle Headset... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CZVLCDR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share