Use clear duct tape
https://www.gorillatough.com/product/crystal-clear-gorilla-tape/ I used the clear tape when a rock decided to go through my windshield.
Or this They will protect the lens from further damage and help strengthen the hole. https://www.amazon.com/Precut-Vinyl-2017-2018-Fusion-Headlights/dp/B077496V7Y
You can get big assortments of them on amazon.
GOOACC Universal Plastic Fender Clips,200 Pcs Push Bumper Fastener Rivet Clips with 6 Size Auto Body Retainer Clips Bumpers,Car Fender Replacement for GM, Ford & Ch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QG8CWFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GUSrFbWXBGCZ9
Disclaimer: I just searched and that’s the first one I found, I don’t know if that brand is any good or not. There’s a bunch of similar assortments on amazon or at a parts store.
You can buy these bumper quick releases to hold it in place bumper quick release
FORTEM Tire Inflator Portable Air Compressor
I used it on the regular when I had a Jeep, all 4 tires no issue.
set it for a psi and it remembers too
That's a security pentalobe. It's presence means they don't want you messing with it...so maybe you shouldn't. But if you insist: correct tools.
Don't use superglue but yeah that's the idea behind the repair.
Get some sandpaper (around 300 grit should work fine) and stuff it up real good underneath where you'll cover it.
Then use a good glue. Maybe that clear gorilla glue for wood and leather would work good.
Something like this maybe: Masters Contact Cement 8oz- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BZXB2FI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9CV6ZRYT8DXHRJFQ3EXW
That is what I use on most any glue type application. Stuff is awesome.
I think this is as cheap as you'll make out on this and if you take care in what your doing it'll look fine.
They're trying to charge you for the entire wiring harness, rather than just repair the damage. They're probably trying to work you because you're a woman and they figure you don't know anything. This is easily repairable by someone who understands wiring. There are a couple ways, either with copper tube crimps and solder, or using something like this. These are used all the time in high voltage wiring.
Kind of curious how someone got under your hood to do that.
The vehicle looks like a 4wd truck to me, in which case they'd be leaking diff fluid. It's hard to see the severity of the leak(s) in the picture, but checking the differential is easy.
OP check the fluid level before you go, check it at your first gas stop, and check when you arrive. The fluid level should be at the inspection hole or just below. Make sure you have a bottle of the correct fluid and a fill nozzle like this one to top it up if needed. Pump fluid in until it drips out of the hole.
Easy Out.
Personally, if not a problem I would worry about it.
I'd try a bite socket (kind of like this), otherwise you might be getting the welder out.
Have you owned the vehicle since it was new? Did often you rev hard while the vehicle was cold, while using low quality gasoline?
Have you personally measured high oil consumption? 1QT per 1000-3000 is being cited as normal, or requiring more testing in this article.
Also, this seems to be a TSB and extended warranty program.You may already be outside the 8 year mark if your car was a 2008 mo/yr bought in 2007.
If they are offering to fix the issue at their expense then a rebuild at 100K is a nice thing to have!
If they aren't don't sweat it.
It kinda sounds like the blend door actuator I had to replace on my wife's Chevy Traverse. Its a little motor that directs the air flow into the area your dials are set to - at the feet, torso, head, etc.
I know you have a Dodge but just for reference, here's the one I bought for the Chevy .
If you're gonna be doing your brakes or other people's this kit works pretty well. Does screw in type as well.
I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ALJ4MY
Chrisfix video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAsUG-jbLlM
Mine's been repaired for about 7 years now. I kind of forget about it.
Clean the inside of your throttle body around where it opens and closes and check the idle air control valve. It controls the engine idle and is very important to keep the engine running when your foot is not on the gas. Linked a pic of what it looks like. I have good feeling that idle air vale is what is causing your issue tho.
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https://www.amazon.com/YCT-Control-5L5Z9F715A-Explorer-Ranger/dp/B07KF6KGDD
The only way you're going to do that is to do it yourself.
That just looks like an ordinary polarized power cord with a gap. You could modify an ordinary power cord pretty easy, I would think.
Right, so especially because the gate was greyish and the marks on your car are greyish.....its most likely paint from the gate that got stuck to your car. Buy a polish like this and use a microfiber towel to rub the grey paint off of your car.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004HCOE8Q/ref=twister_B088XQNSW5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
SYKRSS 2.25"Stainless Steel Butt Joint Exhaust Seal Band Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077TGFS7N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_60HR9B8TYE6D8EJAH7HF. this is perfect and bends around exhaust easily
Don't buy the Dorman brand catalytic converter. But the others are fine and most of the time one of those is the original equipment manufacturer anyway. A little research will tell you who. Yes a quality of sensor socket is best. Get one with the cut for the wires not on the corner. That is to say the slot isn't on the corner of the hex. Like this one.
Try rubbing compound. Follow the instructions and don't use on hot paint or in direct sunlight. It's also available at local auto part stores.
Something like this sort of thing: MEGUIAR'S G18116 Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound 16 oz. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006FUT154/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_1bEVFb1J221KK
You definitely don’t need a paint pen - you’re looking to remove transferred paint gently, not add paint. You’ll just need a foam applicator pad, some elbow grease, and a microfiber to wipe off the residue.
There’s no rush on this - once COVID is more under control, I’d just swing by a detailing shop, throw $20 their way and they’ll buff it out in moments.
If you are in the US, most auto parts stores will test your battery and alternator for free. You may also have a short causing the battery to drain even when the car is shut off
I'd watch these videos from ChrisFix on how to diagnose with a multimeter
Also protip: disconnect you car battery of you are going to idle the car for an extended period of time and put it on a float charger to keep it in tip top shape