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Try something like this
Lean-it Scratching Post Wide 20-Inch, Colors May Vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010BAUV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_eltTFbJATA15F
It’s made of carpet material. I had this issue. My guy wouldn’t touch anything leaning or made of cardboard or twine. I would spray him with a squirt bottle when he was scratching the carpet and then move him to the scratching post. I scented mine with nip. I also started giving him treats when he used the post.
Good luck!
There are a couple things you can try, depending on their level of stubbornness. You can try to stick it out and keep ignoring them, but 6 is pretty early in the morning, and it drove me crazy when my cat did that lol.
As previously suggested, you can put tape or some other deterrent on the door. Aluminum foil is a good choice, or you could get a citrus scent to spray on the door, as most cats don't like that smell. A pheromone spray may also be effective. You can switch up their feeding times so they don't know when to expect food, but that can be difficult especially if you are forgetful or have scheduling conflicts.
The last thing that I tried, and what worked for me, was to buy an automatic feeder. I got this one from amazon for about $40, but you may want a different one since you have multiple cats. It took about a week for my cat to realize that food no longer comes from me, so he doesn't wake me up early in the morning to ask for it anymore. He now sits patiently by the feeder for about an hour prior to it opening and doesn't bother me at all.
I hope this helps!
He is cute! I agree he looks uncomfortable, and in particular, I am not a fan of this harness style. Cats are much more sensitive and delicate than dogs, especially around the neck, and so this style of harness is really not good for them. This harness is impeding your kitty's movement because whenever he does a forward movement, the front of the collar portion cuts into his neck a bit, and it makes it hard for him to properly lower his head without lowering his entire body. That's very uncomfortable.
This is the harness I use for my cat when we travel. If I were to pull on the leash, the pressure would go against his lower chest, not around his neck. I am not necessarily recommending this specific product, but I am suggesting that you look at how it's structured: it has a front part that links down to the belly, and goes around the shoulders, rather than as a collar around the neck. This means that if you tug on the leash, the pressure goes on the lower chest, not the cat's throat.
Above all, you want to make sure the harness is styled in such a way that if you tug on the leash, it pulls either at the shoulder or the back/belly, and never puts pressure on the throat.
I had the same issue and bought the Cate mate C500 from Amazon for $50 and it workes great! I would highly recommend; it has 2 ice packs and I set it for 2 and 5 am. https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Mate-C500-Automatic-Digital/dp/B01AUYLVU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=automatic+cat+feeder+wet+food&qid=1623191927&sr=8-3
There is a bitter apple spray I have used on plants and cords to make them taste gross to my cats. You should probably reapply it every few days but it should help. Here is a link to the one I have used before: https://www.amazon.com/Grannicks-Bitter-Apple-Taste-Deterrent/dp/B001CCNG88/ref=sr_1_5?crid=H9QFMDDY348X&dchild=1&keywords=bitter%2Bapple%2Bspray&qid=1619403842&sprefix=bitter%2B%2Caps%2C240&sr=8-5&th=1
Haha, how cute.
If you don't like the mess it's making right now, I think the best thing you can do is move the waterbowl to a corner of the house where the mess wont be a huge deal.
This might be a really dumb idea... but if the problem is that she is emptying the dish completely and then doesn't have any water... maybe try a waterbowl with a reservoir? (Like so?) She'll obviously make a huge mess with it at first, but the fact that it wont run out so quickly might give her the chance to get bored with it and move on to other toys, if that makes sense? Not sure if it'll work, but my kitten gets bored with toys pretty quick if I try to just keep using the same one. :)
>As for his energy, I think I do pretty well with getting him on the go half the time as he has plenty of tunnels and bells and even huge, loud paper bags from shopping to play with. My other cat is a bit older than him but having a friend has been great for both of them.
Have you tried treat balls? I just put kibble in them.
> Wand toys are always great but Pat is definitely a chewer and has obliterated every one I have gotten so far. Luckily, i can tie the ropes back together but it only lasts so long 😂
Yeah, I get that lol. Will he play fetch? If he chases the toy and picks it up you could get him to do fetch. I've taught quite a few foster kittens.
>I love the hunting and hiding game. I have one of those "slow feeder" bowls for dogs that i put their treats into so they have to pick at it and get them out. But I do like hiding them around like that and letting him go at it.
You can also do some "approved distruction". If you know he won't eat the bits, you can put kibble into a twist of newspaper or a towel and he'll have to figure out how to unroll it.
Theres lots of diy puzzles here: https://youtu.be/K816rkM5YHs
Basically, pretend he's a high drive dog. Lol
>The ideas have been great and helpful, thank you again!
Good luck! I've had a few difficult fosters like your boy, and done training sessions with a few others. They do tend to settle down around 2/2.5, but usually are still pretty active cats for their whole lives. The training really helps them to be manageable, IME.
I recommend this one, however the clicker on it can be too loud for fearful cats which is why I used the soft “yes” instead of the clicker in the video. But in general it’s so much easier to have your clicker and your target stick all in the same hand!
Karen Pryor Clicker Training Terry Ryan Clik Stik for Pet Training https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CDRJ3FG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_6hlcGbPXT7JSH
As another commenter suggested, I also recommend an automatic feeder. It’s a bit pricy (I bought mine for $80 on Amazon) but the luxury of sleeping in is worth it in my opinion.
I also have a very smart cat. I ended up having to buy baby locks for the drawers that we keep his toys in and if we don’t want him to open a door, we usually have to put up a baby gate with a cardboard box propped up so he can’t touch the handle. I would think changing to a round handle would be the better long term solution for you. My reason for the baby gate is because my cat also likes to claw under the door.
If you haven’t already, maybe try changing up your cat’s litter to a non scented, low dust litter. If it’s a lidded box, maybe try removing the lid. At one point I paid a cat behaviorist ($400/hr, who would have known?!) and she had suggested that cats really hate scented litters and that a lot of cats don’t like pooping in places where they can’t easily escape from.
As for the counters, maybe try putting some aluminum foil on it before going to bed? I’ve never tried it but I’ve heard it mentioned before as an effective deterrent.
If he’s a dry food eater, you can try a times automatic feeder. Mine has a function where I can record a short message which acts as a trigger for my cat to know when it’s food time. I can also program up to 6 different feeding times, with variable amounts of food for each feeding. It took just a couple days for my cat to adjust, and though sometimes he paws at the food dispenser to get more of it, it’s designed so he can’t get out more than a few kernels.
I’ve had this for 2 years now and it has freed me from all food negotiations with my cat!!
It's more your cats preference. They have plain strap harnesses and vest harnesses. If your kitty is an escape artist they have vest harnesses specific for that. I won't get my kitten till August but I got the come with me kitty cat harness/bungee leash combo. It got great reviews, was reasonably priced on Amazon, and I've seen it in PetSmart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OBFHXU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_czJBzb6CRV7GC
A small is plenty small enough for a kitten, you'll obviously have to get a bigger size if they grow/are a bigger cat
Once Tigger's fed at 3 am, is he okay again until morning? A timed feeder like this one might solve the problem... if he doesn't figure out how to break it open.
My little guy is food-obsessed too, but luckily the worst he's done when hangry is break into the bread drawer and help himself by ripping open the bags!
Any pole with a string and/or feather should do the trick. I use this for my cat, but some cats prefer the ones with feathers. I'm wary of the feather ones because they can rip the feathers off and try to eat them, so use your best judgment.
My cat isn't really food or treat motivated, either. He's the opposite-- hates wet food, hates human food, just wants dry food. Looks insulted when I insist on giving him wet food part of the time because it's healthier. I still give him treats to reward him, which he'll accept, but in a very casual, "Oh well, if you're offering, I guess" sort of way. Some cats only like certain kind of texture or flavors.
The thing with the wand toy in this case is that it will help make you more interesting than whatever else is competing for her attention. So if you wiggle it at her, you'll have more success getting her attention back from whatever she was distracted by in the first place.
first, i would suggest getting something like this
it more evenly distributes the pull from the leash across more area instead of a thin band around the neck which means less chance of choking. the ones you have in the picture don't look like they distribute the force very evenly.
I had the exact same problem with my kitty. She was obsessed with attacking/flipping over her water bowl. I bought this one from Amazon and she hasn't been able to knock it over yet (as long as you keep enough water in it).
My cat used to do this too.. I bought a plastic sheet to put around the door. Something like: CarPET Scratch Stopper - Stop Cats From Scratching Carpet at Doorway https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D00MXZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nzVwFbVPJ4JHG
I actually went to my local home improvement store and bought a sheet of the material this uses and cut it into shape myself to save a couple bucks.
Since putting this in, as well as putting a vertical scratching post (SmartCat Pioneer Pet Ultimate Scratching Post https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000634MH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gCVwFbK952MW0 ) right next to the door, he just sits and meows for a few minutes when I bring him in to sleep at night.
As for the cupboard problem, I’d recommend getting some child safety locks. My cat learned how to open the drawer we keep his string toys in so that became an essential.. I also recommend trying to get into a schedule of playing with them every day so they know when to get their energy out and are less likely to find something to destroy.
sure do!
I use these two:
The all for paws is easier on the cats, and easier to clean.
The 5 in one is great, but a pain for cleaning. You can use all 5 puzzles with wet food, although I wouldnt bother with wet food in the tunnel, the cleaning wouldn't be worth the effort. Keep in mind the bowls are pretty hard for cats who aren't used to using their paws, so I'd start with the tunnel end (squish food into all the holes) and work your way down. They should learn to use their paws on the two middle puzzles, setting them up to understand the fishbowls :)
I'm not sure what the pet store version is, but this one seems okay! I have a regular one that I got on clearance at Target. Just the simple rectangular one that's about 1.5 inches long!
Decoding your cat or Don't shoot the dog! would both be good gifts. Including a clicker and a bag of training treats would make a great gift package.
Might be time to get the female a spiked collar. You can get some that have very short, blunt spikes, all they'll do is make it impossible for him to get a grip. At the very least, using it may help break him out of the habit. Something like this perhaps. It sucks to put one on a cat, and I'd advise to take it off when you get home from work and put it on when you get up in the morning. But it should interfere with his ability to mount her while you're gone.
When you go in for your cats' annual checkups, ask the vet to check that he was neutered properly. It's relatively rare, but sometimes testicular tissue gets left behind-- it's called an "incomplete neuter", and can happen for all sorts of reasons. Anyway, since this isn't an urgent medical situation, I'd just make sure to put that in your Reminders app on your phone so that next time you take him to the vet, it pops up and you remember to ask about that.
does he have a carrier you could put him in for a few minutes while preparing the feeders.
i saw in your other reply that you didn't have the money for the feeders, do you know how to set up an amazon wishlist?
put 2 of these
and 2 of the ice packs that come with them on the wishlist and post the wishlist link here.
I forget if links are ok here or not (I’m on my phone and checking is tricky), but I found something similar on chewy: https://www.chewy.com/necoichi-portable-stress-free-cat/dp/146222?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=18884203140&utm_content=Necoichi&utm_term=&gbraid=0AAAAACeIKiAZH07sL6x6FbpIcX-uY0laz&gclid=Cj0KCQiAg_Kb...
well, there is something like this
maybe get 2 and set them up the night before. if he's on canned food you could try setting them up in the bathroom with the door closed.
Recall is actually one of the few skills that I never remove a food reward from. I want my cat to think that coming back is going to get her something fantastic every time, so if I ever need to use it in an emergency we have a really strong history of getting awesome treats. My first suggestion for getting started in training is Don't Shoot the Dog!, there's also a PDF floating around on the internet somewhere. It's a quick read and gives a very good overview of why training works.
I have taught eye contact outside of a recall and regularly use it as a way for my cat to request what I have. I use soft eyes and don't ask for extended contact, just a check in. Slow blinking is a common way to gain cats' trust, so not all eye contact is bad. Hard staring is going to be interpreted differently than a soft lidded gaze
Dang that's some expensive cat food! But it's a good idea, I'll definitely try this one out to experiment after consulting with the vet/clinic if needed.
Any idea if my cat is allergic to the cat anxiety diffuser I recently put in my living room? His itching started the day after I put it in, but it seems like such a niche allergy. I've unplugged it now, guess it's just time for trial and error. Wasn't helping with his yowling anyway. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQ2P3K4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
Any way to know if the feliway diffusers have the same stuff? This one was cheaper and had decent reviews so I wanted to try it first, but I also found a review where a user found their cat got all itchy from this.
His nose is still cool and wet, if that is a sign for anything.
The new food is the blue buffalo chicken for adult cats, https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/blue-buffalo-wilderness-chicken-recipe-adult-cat-food
Old food: https://www.amazon.com/9Lives-Plus-Care-Food-3-15/dp/B077TQR1H2?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1
The old food says it has "poultry by-product" which is kinda vague, but doesn't straight up say it has chicken but it might be. Just shooting darts at this point, but he seems to be avoiding eating the new stuff all-together anyway.
My cat loves to chew, bite and kick.
I got him some natural catnip chew sticks that both him and my other cat love.
A really great toy to get his aggression out that he can bite and kick is the cuddle stick. You can fill it with fresh catnip every so often to regain interest but my guy loves it so much I just rub it against itself and toss it around when he's feeling frisky.
Having cat grass in the house growing is also a great idea so that he has something healthy to chew on. You can buy seeds on Amazon for cheap and it grows super fast.
Would also recommend you talk to your vet about dental kibble!
Hope this helps!
I know there's a wide range of kennels on the market, so I just want to clarify that I mean you should get a kennel-cage sized like you would for a golden retriever-- you want the cat to have plenty of room to move around in, especially because Bengals are extremely active cats (I should know-- I have a friend with three bengals. Three.) They have to put childproof locks on everything because of those cats, lol.
Anyway, something like the 42" or 48" kennels shown here is what I'd recommend. You can surely find them at your local pet store, but it's also easy to just grab them off Amazon.
They have new churu treats that are solid and have a little bit of the soft stuff in the middle! My cats LOVE them and I use them as a pill pocket for one of our cats. Just be careful because once you open them, I’d you don’t use them quickly, they will get moldy. I keep them in the fridge now once I open them. Here’s a link to the ones I have.
looking at the other comments and seeing what others are saying about having a litter box. i agree that it will probably be the best thing, even if it's a temporary situation. hopefully him being unneutered will not be a problem, either. i only kept my cat indoors for a week at my airbnb, the week before i left guatemala, and in that time he never had accidents (he is approx. 1.5 years). he was not neutered until i brought him home. anyway, if you have access to a grocery store, i recommend getting something like a large disposable aluminum baking tray, e.g.: https://www.amazon.com/Disposable-Aluminum-Containers-Roasting-Reheating-12/dp/B077514W86/ref=asc_df_B077514W86/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241911407998&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18088111304589567242&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002244&hvtargid=pla-449073089470&psc=1
if you can find one, it's way better than a cardboard box (tried that and hated it. couldn't stand it for more than a day). i'm not sure what prices in morocco are like, but in guatemala i bought one for the equivalent of 2 USD and got some litter, too. a small bag of the cheapest option cost me 2-3 USD. that will be easier to clean than beach sand since if it's clay (most cheap options are), the pee clumps and scoops easily. i also bought a poop scooper for about 1-2 USD. good luck!
How in the world does he unscrew the legs of a table? You may try the bracelets or springs. He might like how the screws spin on the floor out of control. https://www.chewy.com/fat-cat-crazies-playrings-cat-toy/dp/53472
My one guy is easily overstimulated and doesn't like a lot of petting. However, much to my surprise, he LOVES being brushed with a brush mitt. I have to watch his body language to see when he's had enough, but he let's me brush him for way longer than I can just pet him.
Churu is a nice pick
The Amazon link
One of my cats goes nuts for Temptations, the other one couldn't care less.
The squeezy licky treats are guaranteed to bring both of them running. My burmese is not food motivated but he loves them, and most cats do. There are tons of brands but this is a sample fo what I mean. They're cat crack.
https://www.amazon.com/Delectables-Squeeze-Interactive-Wet-Treats/dp/B07BHVQL6W/ref=sr\_1\_13?keywords=lickable+cat+treats&qid=1663854664&sr=8-13
Oh! And I installed this thing. Pretty neat and it has held up when resident cat has launched herself at it.
Reinforced Cat Screen Door,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B288PJK9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You'll probably have to try 3-5 different types of brushes! Different cats like different brushes. I have luck with the tangle teaser even with my sensitive long haired boy. Someone recommended the allergen reducing cat food, I can't recommended it myself but I do think this is a good idea. I also have cat allergies (allergies to EVERYTHING in general) and keeping a clean house helps the most. A roomba to vacuum when you're out, zertec, cat food without corn syrup and wheat and very occasional baths is my key to success.
For cleaning, I recommend the clean mama method. You'll wipe down countertops daily. However, I do vacuum more often (3-4X/week). And change pillow covers twice a week, that started for adult acne but it really helps allergies. I also have 2 HEPA filters going all the time.
*I am fully aware that I go overboard with cleaning. You probably don't need to clean as much as I do.
The clean mama version IS quick. There's a book, it says 10 min a day but I probably do 45min-2hrs a day (with a disabled body and taking care of my grandma with dementia!). Like everything, the more you do something the faster and more efficient you become. Even with my body, I can clean a bathroom in under 10 min. My hand/arm has difficulties with holding a vacuum/broom more than a sponge/wipe.
If you don't want to pay for a book, or you're a visual learner there are a TON of youtube vids on the weekly clean mama method.
my sisters male cat does this... he stole her headband and now it's his special headband because every now and then he has some alone time with it.
If the tag jingles or makes any sound, that could be what's freaking her out. I always remove the bells that cat collars come with - my previous boy cat would freak out with any bells or jingling from his tags .Or, it might just be big and feels heavy or sits funny on her - just having the collar on until she's a little bigger could help her get used to it.
I use pet ID tubes for my kitties infos (as well as them being microchipped). They just have a little slip of paper inside that you write on then roll up.
That said, some cats just refuse to live with a collar on. My previous girl kitty was referred to as "Houdini" because she could get out of any collar we put on her, including a non-safety dog collar once. Our one apartment required all pets (cats & dogs) have collars and IDs. We'd just leave hers lying on the floor somewhere if maintenance or management had to come into our apartment to make it look like she'd just gotten out of it instead of never wearing it.
Behaviorist here.
Put a heavy duty scratcher by or on the the couch (depending on how he’s scratching). SmartCat has a great vertical scratcher. Cardboard scratcher loungers are a little messy, but cats also really love those for horizontal scratching, playing, and lounging on.
Buy a couch cover if necessary. Especially plastic if you can tolerate it short term. Setting a throw blanket on top when you want to sit on it helps a lot.
Talk to your roommate about covering these costs.
I’d also encourage moving a cat tree by where you work, and/or by a window in your room.
Alternatively, these are extremely popular with cats and take up less room, though have unfortunately gone way up in price recently, so you might shop around.
A bed by or on your desk/workspace is also recommended if you don’t move a tree there. Even just pulling up a chair next to yours with a bed on the seat can help a lot.
Again… talk to your roommate about covering these costs. It’s their cat and their responsibility.
Take 4 paper towel tubes, cut them to length from cats armpit to above foot (or pvc pipe at HD). Attach 2 cross members (like a coffee table) the distance between your cats front and rear legs. Attach elastic bands across the top of two front tubes and 2 rear tubes. Place cat in a harness, suspend harness from rope to keep cat in the air. Place legs in tubes. Use one of above grinders to trim nails.
Solution #3. Get another boyfriend with requisite skills ASAP.
One of my cats had this problem and a puzzle feeder helped a lot with it, forced her to eat one or two kibble at a time. Before she would just inhale her food but when it's just one or two kibble she takes the time to chew it. This is the one I have
They just rigged the tunnel to go through a window )or other opening to the house). There’s other versions of popups with tunnels too though. popup tent
Well, if you do get that SUV and let the roam free, I really do suggest that you not keep their litterbox or dishes there because a car collision is a major force multiplier (Force = Mass x Acceleration). So if you're going to do this, I strongly advise you not have anything in the back that isn't completely tied down/secured. Only have something there that's super light (like a bed or blanket).
And maybe consider having a mesh barrier like this so that if you do have to stop suddenly/get into an accident and the cats go flying, they won't go sailing over the seats and into you or the windshield. So that'll help protect them (by acting like a safety net) and you. Just make sure the barrier reaches the ceiling and sides of the car.
I sympathize too, my cat is happy as a clam as long as he's not in his carrier. It's just that I'd much rather have an upset cat than a dead one.
One thing I've done is get a Mr. Peanut's cat carrier, which has expandable sides and a plush, well-padded bottom. So I'm able to unfold the sides and enlarge it so that it's enough room for him to splay out, stretch his legs and be comfortable. Perhaps you could look into that? They're very well-made carriers.
My cats never liked using regular scratch posts but they LOVE these ugly cardboard scratch boxes. There’s lots of different shaped ones. My cats particularly like the ones that have more of a side and they lay on it like a bed, but having a few of these around has saved a lot of my stuff.
Definitely sounds like kitty herpes. Look for an L-lysine supplement (like this one). Its what my vet recommended when my geriatric kitty just couldn't shake it off on her own anymore and it really helped.
The cat might still be having bladder issues, or is still associating the litter box with pain (like another commenter mentioned). I had a cat that peed on our bed when he had crystal blockages because that's where he felt safest. Cats generally aren't the vindictive schemers that we imagine them to be. And it's also important to remember that they tend to hide their pain and not to punish them or take it personally when they do react to pain or discomfort.
Consider changing the type of litter you're using and I highly recommend adding water to at least one of his meals from now on (ever since the urine crystals almost killed our cat--and trust me, once there is a blockage, things go downhill at a frighteningly rapid pace and it tends to be a recurring condition--we now give at least one portion of wet food with water added, so like a soup).
I also don't think cats like the feel of litter on their paws any more than you like it on your floor, and they just want to get out of the litter box asap, it's nothing personal. I have one of these mats that helps a lot, but litter is still gets tracked everywhere and we just vacuum it up regularly. It's the small compromise we have to make for having an indoor only cat.
We also have designated cat spots in each room, like a stool or stack of boxes--something tall, where the cat is allowed to sit and see what's going on. This keeps them off spaces that they're not allowed.
My cat had the same problem of peeing over the litter box edge and I tried various high sided litter boxes, but they were never tall enough for my special boy. I finally found these plastic pee shields on Amazon that I attached to my litter box to extend the height. They are working great so far! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XJHQ7PZ
I assume you’ve tried this already, but for anyone else reading this who is newer to cord chompers: I’ve had great luck with braided cords (random example from Amazon ) I’ve been able to find charging cables, headphones, keyboard, and mouse with this type of cord
How about just a slow feeder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08732YLMH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RTM63NPKPRN07RWB2XPD
or food mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089DQBBMP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GTVP49E2K8RDAEJVT52Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This extends the amount of time the cat spends eating and makes it more of an activity without making the cat think too hard. The food is there, it’s not a puzzle, it just takes more time to get.
Keep ignoring her. Stick to your resolve and eventually she will learn being annoying doesn’t equal attention. There are a lot of products on the market that can prevent scratching like scratching sprays, double sided sticky tape, pet repellent/pet block sprays. I used to have a cat who did this and I locked her out into the living room at nights usually having something blocking the door to avoid damage to the door. There are also toys on Amazon that u can put batteries in that entertain the cats for a while.
SmartyKat Electronic Motion/Moving Toys for Cats & Kittens, Battery Powered, Mimics Motion of Real Prey, Fun & Interactive Play - Multiple Styles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP7F8YC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AEDZYNTK8T85NV9FWJZ0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Flurff Cat Toys, Interactive Cat Toy Butterfly Funny Exercise Electric Flutter Rotating Kitten Toys, Cat Teaser with Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4XGY1Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5Z3ZZ1GAPRE47HKARGVW
You could try a soft collar. That’s what I use on my cat.
Amakunft Adjustable Cat Cone Collar Soft, Cat Recovery Collar, Cute E Collar for Cats After Surgery, Cat Neck Cones to Stop Licking for Cat/Kitten/Small Dog https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VD419D5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7CNH4ZRYNX3DB9NJ256M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don’t know if you have cabinet knobs or pulls, but for a cheap solution I put hair ties around both knobs on my cabinet doors to keep my male cat out.
Or you could buy baby proof cabinet locks.
10 Pieces Sliding Cabinet Locks, Child U-Shaped Proofing Cabinet with Adjustable Safety Child Lock, Easy to Use Childproof Latch for Knob Handle on Kitchen Storage Door Cupboard Closet Dresser (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PCZDV3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JJX0SQN30F0K1165RGT8
Try placing a motion activated air canister near the opening? It's harmless and has no smell. It just startles them and blows air toward them when they approach the area.
Here's one:
PetSafe SSSCAT Motion-Activated Dog & Cat Spray
https://www.chewy.com/petsafe-ssscat-motion-activated-dog/dp/167583
I mean you don't have to get that you can get one like Van Ness Odor Control Extra Giant Enclosed Cat Pan with Odor Door - #CP7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ASCGM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_H24ZTPQW1SX7Y8YGKT4H
They have tons of options like that at target and we usually rip the front door off and put a litter mat in front to catche the litter and it works great.
Ohhh I see you mean like this?
HOOBRO Cat Litter Box Enclosure, Hidden Cat Washroom Furniture with Divider, Wooden Pet House End Table, Large Enough for Most of Orange Cat and Litter Box, Living Room, Bedroom, Rustic Brown BF03MW01 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G164VFR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V5A07TFG0BF31TTM4Z7Q
Hey there, I'm happy to help. Can you please post a link to the three types of trashcans you've tried so far, so I have an idea of what her puzzle-solving capabilities are/what you've already tried? Because it's possible I have a simple solution that won't involve getting rid of the trashcan or replacing it.
When we lived with my grandmother, we had to put a lock on the fridge to stop her from stealing mine and my brothers' chocolate. It's a cheap little attachment that can be put on all sorts of things-- including a trashcan!
Here's an example of one you might consider. It's cheap, $10. You can even tie the keys to the lock itself with string or zipties, or get a little D-shaped tab to stick (or screw to the side of the trashcan and tie the keys to those, to make sure the keys don't go missing 😉.
It might take a little work to teach your toddlers how to work this, and you might have to supervise to make sure it's always locked. But it certainly won't harm them, and if you screw the little ring I linked into the side of the trashcan and tie the keys to those, you won't have to worry about losing the keys. As long as your cat doesn't figure out how to turn a key, this should be a cheap, safe, and easy solution for you.
This is Star, she’s 5 months old. She’s pretty long and slinky and if you look closely in the video you can see her current harness (this Rabbitgoo harness for smaller cats) moves a lot when she’s walking. Even though she’s almost at the max chest girth for this harness.
So I’m debating between H and vest style harnesses for her. The main factors I’m considering are:
- Need a harness that fits her thin frame, not moving around like the one in the video
- Security is a concern, but I don’t want her to feel too constricted in a jacket style
- She’s a climber, so I want a harness she can get out of if stuck on a tree
- She’s pretty stubborn, so I do have to tug her a little
- We don’t like the step in style with the two holes for her to put her legs in (she keeps bending her legs when putting it on and they come out of the holes)
In general, would you say H style or vest harnesses are more secure for skinny cats like her? Any suggestions based on these factors?
Thank you!
We have the Catit Senses 2.0 Cat Digger Slow Feeder , which is obviously too simple for your scary little brainiac. Both my cats know how to work it, though the one looks at you like "Why must you make things so difficult?"
My too smart for his own tuxedo pants kitty likes the Petstages Buggin' Out Puzzle & Play Cat Toy . We started him out with the easiest setup and have worked up to the most difficult with no troubles with him. My only gripe is you have to disassemble it to clean it properly, and I don't know how well the plastic snap connectors between parts will hold up after too many cleanings. That manufacturer has also a rain cloud one that might be a step more difficult.
Have you started any clicker training? She seems smart and motivated enough to learn anything you're patient enough to teach her!
I do cat behavior consulting on the side and this feeder is the one I almost exclusively suggest. A couple different puzzles and you can change it up if your kitty is getting too good at one. The bowls in particular are great because the slopes surface makes it hard to just drag the food out.
You'd basically need to put him in a little recovery suit to achieve what you're asking. You'd basically need something like this but with a D-ring built into/firmly sewn into it. And most cats do not enjoy recovery suits. And I don't know of any that have a D-ring in them.
Not all cats are suitable for walking. Even if they enjoy walking and accept the harness, cats that actively try to escape the leash should not be walked, especially if they then plan to run straight into traffic... or in your case, an unfriendly dog.
The other issue is that many of the more "secure" harnesses on the market put pressure on the front of the cat's chest and throat, which is extremely uncomfortable and makes it hard for them to sit, crouch, and move their neck. Since you cannot (and should not) compromise his safety, you should stop taking him on walks.
I got this: do you think 1.5mm is thick enough?
NECAUX Custom Multisize 1.5mm Thick Frosted PVC Table Cover Protector - 48 x 86 Inch Rectangular Plastic Protective Table Pad Kitchen Wood Grain Vinyl Dining Room Table Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QWXXNV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_TMAT8SXJY18VDWBKWMBP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Simple Solution Cat Stain and Odour Remover | Enzymatic Cleaner with Pro-Bacteria Cleaning Power - 4 Litre https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005GO2VX4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_CMQPY2FMP00NFMJV3P2N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I used, it may be the same product sold in the US or something similar, but it worked well for me
> Should we go bigger?
If you're going to get a second litterbox, get a bigger one-- closer to 22" x 18". But also make sure to get one that's low, or has a low entrance. Perhaps something like this?
You could also try changing her litter to something softer to see if it's a comfort issue. You could experiment by only using the experimental litter in just one box, and see if she expresses a distinct preference for one box over the other.
A different question I have: How is her mobility? Does she have trouble jumping on couches, or mostly forego sitting on furniture to lay on the floor instead? Does she ever require help with grooming?
While cats can poop out of spite-- believe me, mine does-- they are more often than not cries for help, and should first be approached as such. The fact that moving the litterbox over helps for a short period of time makes me wonder if she's confused or misjudging the box. When my old cat was at the end of his life (not suggesting yours is, mind you), he would climb into his litterbox and pee... but wind up peeing right outside the litterbox, missing entirely. It obviously was not on purpose.
Have you observed her in the process of pooping outside the litterbox, or have you only ever found the poop after the fact? If so, it might be worth hanging out in the basement for a couple days just to watch her (or set up a camera if you have one, either works) to see if she's climbing into the box and missing, or if she's not climbing in at all.
Try something like this litter box, it has top only entry and when they get out usually any extra litter on their paws will fall back through. I have two 1 1/2 year old cats and they both love this more than any of the other litter boxes I tried.
​
If not that one, then you should check out the Litter Robot Box on Amazon, if you have the real estate for it, thing is amazing.
They sell this at most hardware stores. When I lay it out spikes up it deters my cats without harming them. The spikes are uncomfortable to walk on but won't break the skin. Cut it into pieces and leave it on your counter when not in use.
Would something like this do the trick?
No problem! I have this puzzle feeder. I also made a diy puzzle feeder out of toilet paper rolls. Here’s a video of my cats using both.
Yeah I love puzzle toys! My cat is pretty active and I keep her entertained through a combo of clicker training and puzzle toys. I have this one and it’s pretty good. I put her regular food in there sometimes to make her work for her dinner. I also diy-ed a puzzle toy out of toilet paper rolls and some cardboard.
Years ago when TVs were heavier and more box like in looks, cats liked to sit on top of TVs for warmth. If that’s what your kitten is doing, you could get a heating pad for cats for her to lay on.
It has a timer and goes up to 111 degrees F, so it doesn’t get too hot.
I got one for my cat that loves to lay on my laptop.
Heated Cat Bed Mat,18''x22'' Pet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GFGPWC3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Kastty Cat Water Fountain, Super Quiet Water Fountain for Cats Inside, Pet Water Fountain for Kitty, Cat Waterer, Dog Bowl Dispenser 2.2L/74oz,with Super Long Life Span Pump, Black+Colorful LED Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093BZGXFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_KD2V7JY5E584GKMVKP6M
I have this one and my girl loves it! The top just sits in the base and doesn’t snap in (just fits into grooves on the edge) but we’ve had no issues with her batting it off.
what kind of clipper? I use this, and my cats tolerate it, especially if they're sleepy, but they don't love it and when they wake up they start trying to bite it.
Not sure if your cat is actually super annoying or is just a grudge holder and needs to just have things her way. Sometimes they just want cuddles but 🤷🏽♀️ make a cat door for her
The Kitty Pass Interior Cat Door https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B017KXN7DG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0HP6KF5N00XG8XY2C4YF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I tried just about every brand I could find with my kitties. They turned up their nose at most brands, even pricey freeze dried ones. The only two types they like are bonito flakes and temptations chicken treats, aka kitty crack. Seriously go read the amazon reviews. Some people actually advise against temptations because it makes their cats into addicts. My cats absolutely love them but they aren't cracked out begging addicts.
Oh yeah, that is a ripoff. Here!
Cat grass is really just oatgrass, red wheatgrass, alfalfa grass, or rye grass (or a mix of several). I did some experimentation and found that red wheatgrass was the cheapest and easiest to grow, so that's what I use. Stores, both brick and online, will mark it up ridiculously just for the "cat grass" label.
Red wheatgrass is very easy to grow straight from seed. Get a plastic tupperware container, pour in some seeds, fill with an inch of water, and put in a dark place/cover with a newspaper. Collect it in the morning, drain the water, and fill with fresh water. Put back in the dark place. Rinse and repeat for one more cycle, then plant them. They'll sprout within two days and be established enough to munch on in about seven.
It depends on the size of the pot you use, but I've found that one seed packet lasts me about two and a half months. The grass only lives for about 2-3 weeks max, so you have to constantly replant/replace every couple weeks. I don't know if you've been doing this or not, but don't reuse the soil-- throw the whole thing out and use new dirt. I bought a big bag of potting soil at Home Depot three months ago for twenty bucks and I'm only halfway through it.
I use this automatic feeder. There is a button on top that can be pressed to dispense food, but there is a setting in the application that allows you disable it since cats can figure it out. If you start feeding him using this, he will start to disassociate food from you, which may lead to less harassment regarding food.
Don't get a gravity feeder, which is what it sounds like you were thinking?
You may have to do some trial and error to get the portions right. I feed my cat by grams, and the stated gram amount that it dispenses is not 1:1 to the actual gram amount dispensed, but with some trial and error you can figure out how many grams you want dispensed per meal. If you schedule him multiple small meals per day (ex: maybe schedule a meal every 3 hours) it might trick him into being less upset about less food, because even though it's still less, it's paced throughout the day and may trick him.
Adding to this thread that we use this one: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-5-Meal-Automatic-Dispenses-Digital/dp/B000GEWHNS/ref=zg_bs_2975260011_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DBTA05H2RM36016Z0YEH and it works well enough. You can set it to go off at specific times and there's not an external way that kitty can get inside it. Trust me, our cat has tried haha.
We got these for cat food cans but they fit on pint glasses so we use them for covers to stop our cats from doing the same thing
https://www.chewy.com/frisco-silicone-pet-food-can-cover-2/dp/242556
How long have you had him?
It sounds like you are doing all the right things. I had the same problem with my 2nd cat after adopting. The fact I had another cat she loved to play with did not stop her from yowling all night and morning. I did pretty much what you did with a few exceptions and it took about 1.5 months for her to give up the yowling.
What I did (somewhat) differently:
I have a small apartment with NO bedroom door and this cat is the loudest cat I have EVER known so I could not lock her out of my room. Instead I got a puppy/kitten corral like this one and kept her in it while I was sleeping. To help her and drown out the yowling I put a bluetooth speaker next to it playing brainwaves and relaxing ambient sound. After about two months she stopped and I stopped putting her in coral. She still wakes up at about 5am and plays but quietly and doesn't bother me. She also used her loud meow to ask for food and I trained her out of that by NEVER giving her food when she meowed like that and it worked. She is 3 and almost never meows in that way that loud anymore.
These are not cheap - but I have a friend that used these for that issue. The bowl only opens if the cat with the correct microchip puts their head through.
https://www.chewy.com/surefeed-microchip-small-dog-cat/dp/157145
+1 for puzzle feeders to eat up some daily cat energy. I've had great success with these two: $10 silicone puzzle feeder (works for wet food), and specifically these $13 Mousin' Around Hide 'n Treats (for dry food or small treats.)
If he doesn't understand the Hide 'n Treats right away, start by leaving them out in obvious places, have some treats right around it, and even create a small trail of treats. Once he learns that batting it around = more food, gradually increase the difficulty of hiding spots. You can repurpose any old boxes that you were going to recycle for new hiding spots.
I love this.
I just bought this backpack with the tunnel for my babygirl. Thinking she’ll enjoy walks and hikes
I bring her home Monday and will have it out with toys and treats inside and reward her when she goes near to start. I’m SO excited. 1
https://www.chewy.com/petstages-tower-tracks-cat-toy/dp/126530
This is the one I was referring to, sorry it was such a crap description 😂 and I'm sure "toys" is such a whatever kind of suggestion but any energy kitten gets out is energy not spent on big cat! Hope they learn harmony ✨
This may sound weird, but... your cat doesn't like walking on wire, does she? Like, she doesn't walk on the dog's wire crate because it would be super uncomfortable to.
Look for some baking cooling racks that have wide gaps between the wires, maybe something like this or this. You can buy a set for under $20, and as a bonus, you can actually still set stuff on top of it while using the counter.
Basically, lay them out all over the counter so that she can't walk across the counter without having to walk on them. Hopefully, it'll be so uncomfortable that she'll be discouraged from doing it after the first couple times. I hope that works. Since it seems to discourage her from knocking over your plants, it might discourage her from countersurfing too.
Order some thick leather welding gloves. This will help keep you safe when caring for the cat and might also give you an opportunity for safe rough play.
This is painters masking tape that is 12 inches wide. Tape it to your counters face-up and slightly overlapping.
There is nowhere for him to go but down to avoid it then!
This one is pretty easy. Put the cables in [sleeves like these](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B1EO2GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2A5DV62W69B9HQGFGE1M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1] and/or spray all cables and sleeves liberally with bitter apple spray.
This works quickly. Neither method is great for USB charger cables - even the smallest sleeves are ugly and ungainly - but real electrical wires are much more dangerous.
All of the other comments are right and Please don’t wait too long on the vet and neutering for his and everyone else’s safety. But for now a cheap remedy may be to invest in “relaxivet” or something similar from amazon.
Relaxivet Pheromone Calming Spray for Cats and Dogs (50ML) with a Long-Lasting Calming Effect - Spray for Stress Prevent and Relax - Anti-Anxiety Spray for Pets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0112OD3LA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E9MTK8AAEC2W1Z3FVBRW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Don’t tolerate feces on the floor. You deserve better. Try this litter box: https://www.amazon.com/IRIS-Top-Entry-Litter-White/dp/B01MRV5YNO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=top+entry+litter+box&qid=1628040348&sprefix=top+entry+lit&sr=8-3
I agree with scruffing, double sided tape, and honestly permanent bathroom ban (mine is on this and honestly, it gave me peace). Add one or two more scratching posts and reward for use or even just leave treats on them to attract him.
I agree with timeout tbh. if you’re gonna use the carrier, make sure the zippers are tucked underneath and at the bottom so he can’t pop out. My cat’s carrier also had zippers on top. I just tied them together with a zip tie since those were easier to push and open. The side entry one, once at the bottom, he can’t reach to open the space. 20min in there and only letting him out when he stops yelling will help. Now my cat knows he’s acted out when he’s out there, is actually peaceful there, and doesn’t fight anymore. And leaves much calmer than before. Do this in conjunction with set wand play 3x a day for 10 minutes, and I think this will help.
Put away all your valuables. Get childlocks for all Cabinets. Stop losing precious items and money to him.
If all else fails, pick your mental health first!
They do! Put in a microchip cat door to the bedroom so only your cats can get in and out. This way they are the only ones who can get to the water bowl, food bowls, litter box, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/SureFlap-Microchip-Cat-Door-White/dp/B003EGIM3O
Do you have a scratcher near the couch? What kinda of material is it? Does he scratch when on the seated area (ie he's scratching horizontally) and if so do you have a horizontal scratcher? Is the cat tree in the same room as the couch?
From your post, it seems he only has one area to scratch (the cat tree) which doesn't seem like much? I know the tree has multiple but scratching gives cats a sence of home/territory, so honestly try to have one in each room if you can tolerate it, at least the ones that are 'socially significant' (ie you spend a lot of time in).
As other already mentioned, more more play. If you work from home, try some interactive cat toys, we also used these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Doc-Phoebe-Interactive-Indoor-Hunting/dp/B07HFKDJF8/ref=sr_1_59?dchild=1&keywords=Automatic+Cat+Toy&qid=1625668740&sr=8-59 which we find keeps them entertained a bit during the day (beware if you have hardwood floors though, they'll throw them lol).
This a great resource with a lot of backing in scientific literature from veterinary behaviorists: https://www.amazon.com/Decoding-Your-Cat-Ultimate-Behaviors-ebook/dp/B07T3JHVQD/ref=pd_sim_1/142-6812824-7569261?pd_rd_w=wS0uh&pf_rd_p=d9946c66-b1cb-486e-8910-b5930c8935b6&pf_rd_r=KHS91DSCZHPJKMYK44DZ&pd_rd_r=8baf5f73-6745-46e7-8fd4-4553e52f0e9c&pd_rd_wg=tYPQB&pd_rd_i=B07T3JHVQD&psc=1 (sorry about the URL)
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It also sounds like they may feel reinforced for some reason when they jump up on the table and cry for attention. If you check out some of my other replies, I talk a lot about how the thing that happens immediately after a behavior is the most important factor in determining whether it will increase or decrease in frequency.
Our wegie is also a scarf-and-barf cat. I found a beautiful, ceramic (bs plastic- it’s heavy and can’t be pushed around floor or knocked over if he gets frustrated, dish-washable, lower bacteria growth, and easier on the cat’s chin skin) puzzle feeder. That has greatly improved his food intake time by slowing him down. It slows down his feeding and he actually breathes between bites.
This is the one we got, it even has a $2 off coupon on it right now! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJJTL64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PFSFDMRBHYB14EYFZ1VC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
We also learned that the Bissell Spot Clean steam cleaner is small enough to store, light enough to lug out when needed, inexpensive-ish, reasonably easy to clean out, and pretty reliable with its cleaning efficacy.
Good luck with your barfer!
My tuxedo quickly learned that hitting and bending the metal blinds was my trigger. He'd just sit there and stare at me while he hit them over and over and over. I love your cat. Dexter is determined af.
Do you have any outdoor space? Like a patio, at all? Some of this bad behavior seems to be not just missing the outdoors but the autonomy. If you have a sliding glass door to a patio, then getting one of those doggy door inserts would allow him to go in and out as he pleases. And you can even make your own catio using the metal squares and zipties.
Metal grid cube storage things https://www.amazon.com/AHOME-Storage-Organizer-Bookcase-Shelving/dp/B07S9V4GF1/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=square+grid+shelving&qid=1622925381&sr=8-8
If creating a catio or even a portable cat compound or fort of sorts and letting him just stay in it (outside) for a while isn't an option at all, then can you maybe put him in the bathroom when he starts engaging in the most offensive behaviors? Also, the feliway may be helpful as it seems he's working himself up in anxiety, as well as you too.