What are /r/Chainsaw's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Great, thank you! I am guessing that this would work as a replacement? Is there anything else that I should replace as a precaution?

You can get a special screwdriver to adjust the carb and fix that. It's like they come starved for gas from the factory or something. I opened mine up just slightly, and now I can leave it idling on the ground while I walk off for a few seconds and have it still be running when I come back.

I got this set from Amazon. For the Poulan, you only need the 21-teeth splined one, but the set was cheap enough that I got them all in case other engines I come across uses one of the other styles.

I have the harbor one. It's ok

Get this one. I have it and I love it. Make sure you get the right size and you must have a vice (maybe you could do it w/o it, but it's tough)

https://www.amazon.com/STIHL-EASY-CHAINSAW-CHAIN-SHARPENER/dp/B00HY96EW8/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=chainsaw+sharpener&qid=1602527320&sr=8-3

Just get a new bar with a 0.05 gauge. You can't run a 0.050 chain on a 0.058 bar - there will be way too much wobbled in the bar groove.

You can get a cheap bar and chain combo like this one for under $30

https://www.amazon.com/Farmertec-Chain-Guide-JonCutter-Chainsaw/dp/B07PZCJBB5?th=1

Here's a link to the exact chain.

https://www.amazon.com/Stihl-Chisel-Chain-3623-005-0084-33RSC-84/dp/B005O0RRA2/ref=asc_df_B005O0RRA2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241885289460&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6947710625576291273&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...

Unfortunately, you can't really swap out different sizes of files in those things if you want them to file within the tolerances they are set up for.

Buy the 5/32nd and the 1/8th file jig.

Also, buy the pferd brand. Stihl licenses the design from pferd and just charges like 15 bucks more.

https://www.amazon.com/Pferd-17300-Chain-Sharp-Filing/dp/B0047A0RUC

They do make a universal sharpener

https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-21474U-Universal-Handle/dp/B014IWD3OA

You're never going to find one sharpening guide that works for all chain because different size cutters & links necessitate different lengths, file heights, sizes & alignments.

The angle grinder chainsaw discs are one of the most dangerous tools out there.

As a former metal fabricator, I have spent a great many hours using angle grinders. They are dangerous enough with a metal cutting disc. I have removed skin from myself several times.

It is very easy to have a grinder kick back on you and take a bite in an instant. With a chainsaw disc, a grinder will remove large quantities of flesh in a hurry.

There is no way that I will use one of those.

https://www.amazon.com/Poulan-Weed-Eater-44689-Guide/dp/B000IOAHF6?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A25FWMV2X344QH

This should fit. The chain is .050 gauge and 3/8 pitch

A straight edge across the flat side of the bar will tell you if it's bowed on either side. You should also check the groove depth to make sure the chain isn't riding high. Flipping your bar on a regular schedule (every few shapenings, every few tanks, etc...) helps ensure it wears evenly. You could also use a caliper to see if the groove edges are flared and need to be filed down, though I have never had to do that before.

If you do other kinds of tasks like woodworking, a straight edge is a good investment. I have this one. Good enough for general work, wouldn't use it for machine work though.

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71332-Anodized-Aluminum-Straightedge/dp/B07R6RK87W

Tecomec makes the 620. Oregon just puts their name on it and calls it that. And they sell it for more. You can buy the super jolly, which is the same thing for cheaper. For example:

https://www.amazon.com/Tecomec-Super-Mounted-Grinder-Hydraulic/dp/B00BWSWXQ8

If I had a stack of split firewood that is too long, I may prefer to use my mitre saw instead of a chainsaw.

I'm sure I could rig up something, but don't have anything setup to quickly elevate and secure a log in a way that I could use the chainsaw without having it move around or end up with my chain in the dirt. The mitre saw can be used with one hand controlling the saw and one holding the log, or has clamping in place to deal with ones that may not be safe to secure with my hand.

As for turning 4ths into 8ths, assuming lengthwise, I really wouldn't use the chainsaw for that either. A splitting axe or splitting maul would be the way to go. I'm not sure, but would guess that you have an axe designed more for cutting than splitting if you are having difficulty with already somewhat split wood. Alternatively, I sometimes use something like this paired with a 3-5lb hammer to make kindling and it may work for some of the less knotty pieces you are working with.

Any sort of digital inductive tachometer is probably what you want. Just one thing to keep in mind, if your saw is tuned for a low elevation and you use it up high, it'll be running rich, with might make it not run too well, but it won't cause damage. Going the other way, if you tune your saw for a high elevation, then use it down low, it'll be running lean which will lead to overheating that can damage or even destroy your saw. Just make sure that if you do tune it while up high, tune it again when you come down before you go to use it.

Here's a cheap tachometer on Amazon, it looks like they've got a bunch of different ones on there that would all work.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01E1216AU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_EXWKK5QQ2RFRAVAW9MSS

Cheap mechanics gloves from Amazon then when I’m doing anything with a saw I have an arbor tech XT leather glove on my lead hand. Doesn’t even feel like a saw glove and fits over mechanic gloves so you can keep using it even when the fingers eventually wear through.

Nice, and I'm seeing similar in terms of battery. Curious whether you've seen much drop off in battery performance with extender use? Also what chain are you running in this video? I started with the stock ones and the switched to this Oregon chain, but you must have gone through more than a few if you're using it daily.

Oregon 2-Pack S62 AdvanceCut Chainsaw Chain for 18-Inch Bar -62 Drive Links – low-kickback chain fits Husqvarna, Echo, Poulan, Craftsman, Echo and more https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016TQHUEC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ECNB0MB67T4C0GEANYJG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have a toolbox that goes with me in the woods and have one of these in it (not this brand just example), works well for a quick touch up:

Felled Chainsaw Sharpening Vise, Chainsaw Accessories Stump Vise – Chainsaw Vise Chainsaw Tool, Saw Vise, Filing Vise https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3KDTDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WM5XH83XP0DXG6J34NY6

For oil, anything for a air cooled 2 stroke engine will be fine. What you want to avoid most is stuff for water cooled 2 strokes like outboard motors. If you buy the small bottles like these, they are premeasured to add to 1 gallon of gasoline to make a 50:1 mix. Larger bottles can be had and you would just need to measure out the same amount per gallon to add. That can be cheaper than the small bottles if you get to the point you are using a lot. The carb may need some adjustment between different mixes so just be aware of that. The premixed stuff is fine as well, just expensive.

Check and probably replace the sprocket. Oregon sells a different clutch drum to change it from a spur sprocket to a rim sprocket.

I believe this one will fit the MS250. I found it after the last time I changed the spur sprocket on my MS250, so I can't say 100% that it works.

Oregon 100961X 0.325 Pitch 7-Tooth Small 7 Spline Power Mate Rim Sprocket System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HZPHOFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_5DWXBQHMGFDXKBFA827D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Would these work to get it high enough off the ground?

What pitch, gauge and how many drive links?

Maybe this? Not sure if it's the right one, but I've had good luck with .325 Archer ripping chain in my MS250. Archer 20" .325-063-81DL Ripping Chainsaw Chain Replaces Stihl MS280 MS290 K3C-RP-81E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N6G19ZX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_AR0M29QPAF9GHRNHZAV4

Here's one for 3/8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008U7D5UM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_JZF7RXYR5FVM60NT3RXR

And one of it is 3/8 low profile https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082L2QLNP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_DHM7HH41WA29SWW1R2X1

> box spanner with a metal bar welded to it with a flat screwdriver on the end

scrench

https://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Chainsaw-Replacement-Combination-Screwdriver/dp/B086G5B6YS/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=chainsaw+scrench&qid=1620058950&sr=8-4

Sure, here's where I got it. It looks different in the picture for some reason. Also keep in mind this takes 81 link chains where other 24" bars take 84 links. I'll link that too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BAHRCM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPTWHKD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_GG1QQRWM513WJR0A28TK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Try some wire mesh safety glasses. They literally can’t dog and tie eyes can breathe.

Oh boy. Took the cover off of the side opposite that diaphragm and lost the little mesh/sieve "filter" while using compressed air.

Anyway, I found this rebuild kit that seems to contain that little sieve and the diaphragm:

https://www.amazon.com/Yingshop-Carburetor-Diaphragm-Trimmers-Chainsaw/dp/B071ZMCCYD/

Will that work?

I really like having the dedicated tools rolled up inside my othe PPE I keep for the saw along with the bar oil, so everything is together. This works quite well:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZ9YRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_t840FbJ01923D

How to use it: Absolutely watch this because chains cut this way work better than brand new ones.

https://youtu.be/9Phwu50-5fM

Update: I was able to find this one that fits real well.

Husqvarna Genuine 530014381 Bumper Spike Fits 136 141 137 142 OEM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7XFIMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iPpMFbQ3PST7A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I've been using this Oregon grinder for over a year and I have no complaints. I do a lot of felling and bucking on the ground as well as milling. Both end up taking a toll on the teeth and being able to spruce them up better than a filing is freedom. I have taken chains to be dressed at a local shop, but you have to leave the chain and it's $5 per (which adds up to "buy a grinder" pretty fast).

One thing that bugs me a little, but I don't think Oregon had a choice, is that all the recommended settings and angles for the range of teeth the grinder will dress are referencing Oregon part numbers. I ended up making my own chart based on the chains I use.

My advice, if you have the budget, purchase one that is "wireless" you hold them as close to the spark plug and it counts the RPM.

Stihl I believe makes one, you're going to pay a premium, think about $100-$120 but it has it benefits.

I bought a cheap $20 one, I will link it below. You wrap a wire around the spark plug wire 4-5 times and hook the wire to the tach and it counts the RPM. On my STIHL MS250 I had to take the top cover off to get good access to the wire. If you don't get good solid wraps you may get incorrect readings, for example the first time I would be willing to bet my readings were off by +/- 500-750 RPM which is simply unacceptable. Stihl allows an error range on my saw of +/- 200 RPM.

I should post a thread but essentially I got the wraps and left 6-8 inches of wire and hanging off. Which I tuck inside the saw in the event it needs tuned again I just pull the wire out, hook it up and then I can get the readings I need.

Your other option is to tune by ear, it is possible and if you air on the side of caution is relatively safe. It comes down to a nice stable idle speed with good throttle response and at full power a slight gurgle. Google four stroking chainsaw, you'll get COPIOUS results.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOOAXY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck.

That would be 16:1. While modern saws/oils work totally fine with the advancements in metallurgy and synthetic oils, a saw that old definitely needs a high oil ratio to work with the carb jetting and clearances with the rings, bearings, etc.

​

Any name brand non-synthetic 2-stroke oil should work. Some newer oils (namely stihl hp ultra) can get very sooty/carbon producing at different rations.

​

I'd use an inexpensive dino oil like the Briggs https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-2-Cycle-Easy-Motor/dp/B000I16K32

I just deal with my own firewood and heating my home. I had a near miss and shortly after picked up husqvarna wrap around chaps After the near miss they were >$100 waited a week I think they dropped to $75 for the 40-42" ones. the price now is still pretty good on them.

If he broke it down enough to replace the piston he can do it again, just attach a new cylinder.

https://www.baileysonline.com/nwp-piston-cylinder-assembly-47mm-for-stihl-ms-361-chainsaws-replaces-1135-020-1202-ckn-361.html

Or if you're a gambling man https://www.amazon.com/Cylinder-Piston-Stihl-MS361-Chrome/dp/B06ZYM31WX

tl;dr -- 33cc 'Tanaka'(Hitachi) 33EDTP and, right afterward, Scheppach CSP2540 (it's one-of-many brands that're thrown on this lil 25cc amazon/ebay special, @$145 it's lasted through some serious usage since last May so intend to get 2nd to reallllly mod like even if it makes i unreliable IE doing it to see how-far-from-OEM I can get it to benchmark :)

Had shaved & edited my OP so many times, hoping to get replies, and cut that out thinking "just general muff-modding" :P Already removed all spark-arresters (no use in FL) and major openings of air-intakes (all filtered so cleaner than OEM but also more air available when it needs it), only noticeable differences so far are noise :P

The unit I'd be modding next, the one getting white high-heat spray on its muffler (to match its new 16" Oregon bar&chain setup and just kinda to see whether high-heats work here) is a

"Tanaka tcs33edtp"

Scheppach csp2540

Only have a tach right now and spline-drives, doing almost everything by ear (or by-feel for compression), will get pressure/vacuum gauge and maybe laser thermom when I make my next order though and anything else of-use for chainsaw tinkering if you've got ideas/suggestions :)

Pick up a mechanic's textbook. Or something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Two-Stroke-Engine-Repair-Maintenance-Dempsey/dp/0071625399#customerReviews

And be careful - there are a lot of well intention people out there who pro's classify as 'knows enough to be dangerous'. Take advice / learn from the wrong person and things will go wrong very quickly.

Cheers & gl :)

S