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There are dozens (hundreds?) of guides for the LS engines. Books, YouTube, forums, etc. all offer potential advice and walk-throughs for the actual rebuild process. If you can't find any you like, try: https://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-GM-LS-Engines-ebook/dp/B00V8SS2EY
Far more important is what you want to build this engine for, street/strip, drag racing, hauling, 4x4, and what you want to spend for the total project. Set a budget for the entire thing because it is very easy to blow $1000s on a motor with many fancy aftermarket parts that don't actually work together well and that don't work for the vehicle it's going into. That's a great way to lose interest in the project when it doesn't perform the way you'd like, and the hobby in general.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMSNYW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_H9DJQ7AQEXQ4D3DC47PQ
Something like that in a rotary tool. If it's brass guides in an aluminum heads just be careful the bit doesn't skip around and chew up the aluminum.
Adding a link for OP. High Temperature Thread Sealants - high temp thread sealant 50 ml tube
There are a few other versions of this, but this one pretty much does it all.
Oh crap, I didn't see the 90° twice.
TimeSert seems to sell all their stuff on Amazon, so this is the kit I was thinking of https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003QB5I52/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2N5EWWITZXTMB
That kit should work well so long as the threads don't go down too deep and the tooling will reach everything. If the threads are all near the surface, I think it will. They have multiple length inserts, so look into those (9.2, 16.2, 24.0, 30.0, looks like the kit comes with the 16.2mm, you'll probably need longer).
We use the regular TimeSerts in a lot of aluminum blocks after they've overheated (BMW and old Toyota 2AZ blocks were notorious for this). The BigSerts we only use after somebody else had botched up a repair, but they work out pretty well. But those don't see that much torque, so.....good luck?
Boy do I not miss mechanical fuel pumps. A decade of dealing with them, and the last one I replaced was in the middle of a pasture 200 miles from home, after a kind friend drove me to the next state over to pick the dang thing up. Then it was an hour of contortions to put the stupid thing in.
If it's a street car and you're not making absolutely stupid power, I highly recommend the pump I run now in the truck:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIQ5DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It has good static lift, which means you won't have to "mount it lower than the tank" like people are saying you'll need to. Mine is mounted at mid tank level, just forward of my front tank, so about 6' ahead of my rear tank, and drawing through a pre filter and a tank switch valve. Zero issues in two years of hard use.
It was originally designed to be a factory part (stock fuel pump on 70s Ford B series buses), so it's not a gimmicky POS like some of the aftermarket pumps. Plus, you can actually find ones that interchange in a store if you're 200 miles from home. I've never had one die so far, but they're cheap enough I just carry a spare (I tow hundreds of miles with a 35yo truck, gods know I have space enough in the camper), and unlike the mechanical POS I can change it in ten minutes if I ever need to.
One of my better inexpensive swaps. Plus, now if the truck has sat a week in 100°F weather, I don't have to kill my starter getting fuel in the bowls again. Just fire up the pump, wait five seconds, then crank and it starts in half a turn.
Run a decent pump and setup and you'll definitely be glad you switched over...
Your carb should be half of a quadrajet:
https://cliffshighperformance.com/product/how-to-rebuild-and-modify-rochester-quadrajet-carburetors
They might have the parts you'll want too, I think, though they don't list dualjet parts.
This book was helpful too:
https://www.amazon.com/Rochester-Carburetors-Revised-Doug-Roe/dp/0895863014
Before you spend the effort, do you know what casting or type of heads they are? I'm assuming these are small block chevy heads. Wouldn't want you wasting time on some low compression smog or TBI heads. Look for the casting number or the mark on the end of the heads, then Google that info. For cleaning, start at the mating surface. I'd avoid the wire wheel if at all possible. Go with a razor blade and a green roloc disk on a pneumatic angle grinder to remove the head gasket & clean the surface. Look closely for cracks.
Don't feel limited to these heads. There are loads of vortec 5.7 heads in junkyards. Those also need inspected closely for cracks, but will make more power than most other SBC heads. You'd just need the right intake to go with it.
amazon has a 2-22 Nm torque wrench for $25; any parts store should be able to get you something similar, though it'll probably cost a bit more. you could also use a torque screwdriver, 10-50 inch-lbs is a pretty common size, available at electrical supply shops in pretty much any town.
First go grab some books. Yes there’s Kits; BUT it’s best to strip the engine down to the block and bring it to a machine shop and have them check it over and let you know what to order. Crank might need undersize bearings and the block might need boring to .010, .020, .030 over. Better to use a shop with LS expertise with some good equipment. Are you interested in going for big power or budget? Might be cheaper to pick up a 150k used 5.3 and do a reseal and call it good if you’re on a budget.
Youll be ok.
A 4 banger like that dont weigh to much, just roll it in on a stand, use moving blanket if the wheels on your stand are jacked, and throw a big black trashbag over it while your not working on it.
As far as tech tips...
Take a ton if pictures while you strip it down. Future you will thank you.
Surface prep is your friend. Fine grit and a flatstone are your new best friend
Keep your parts organized. Get some trays like this https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-83117-Universal-Tool-Tray/dp/B07HFVF2KT/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=parts+tray&qid=1668741984&sr=8-8
And LABEL each bay with what's in it. EG. "Water pump bolts" or "timing tensioner hardware"
Replace all gaskets. I prefer fel-pro's silicone steel-core valve cover and one-piece oil pan gaskets, and standard fel-pro paper gaskets for the rest. Would also replace engine and trans mounts, and clutch if manual trans. Just get standard rubber based mounts, no need for "performance" polyurethane mounts.
Oil pumps last "forever". Unless you're rebuilding the engine or the internal bypass is defective, I sway against replacing the oil pump. Kind of in the same mentality of doing a transmission fluid flush on a high mileage transmission. Just going to surface underlying problems.
I would not do headgaskets, they really only fail due to overheating, turbo charged application, or high mileage wear. Freeze (coolant) plugs may be a good preventative. They tend to rust out on older vehicles that have seen coolant flushes w/ tap water-coolant mixes, and far easier to replace while the motor's out. I like to use this sealer on them. Wouldn't personally worry about oil passage plugs.
I'd run a compression/cylinder leak down test before investing money into cam/head swap. Both of which could be done w/ engine out of car, but sometime's it's just best to get the car moving under its own power.
Also recommend researching you current pontiac heads. And given your year, and a gto, could be 96 heads, which are pretty decent for the era. Good enough for a mild stroker kit + cam w/o needing aftermarket heads. Would obv benefit from a slight porting in that scenario, but also in stock form they're respectful for a street car.
Just do the "bare-minimum". Don't feel like you need to "stretch the budget". Been in your shoes, just get it moving under its own power, and do upgrades when you're in a more financially stable place.
I'd spend 10 minutes with an impact taking the heads of that engine.
And if it's in the same shape, 4.8/5.3's are about the most prolific engine in junkyards nowadays. Unsure of your location, but $75 for bare block w/ core around here, cheaper than machine work required for your current engines. That's what I'd recommend you do. Your other blocks are still good, I just wouldn't recommend spending $350 for machine work and cleaning + $$$ for new pistons until you have some more experience under you belt. And that could be your next engine if you're comfortable, or maybe re-ring/gaskets one or two more before.
But, if you decide to disregard all of our advice, I would say purchase a small hone for the lifter bores, can see they're rusty in the picture too. And clean out the oil galleys extremely well (mineral oil with one of these) . Those roloc disks use aluminum oxide as an abrasive, which is great at material removal, but will wreck bearing surfaces, as it leaves behind a real fine abrasive powder that just gets everywhere.
>A fully charged battery should be around 13 to 13.2 volts. If you check it while cranking and the voltage drops like a stone you have one, or more, bad cells in the battery.
Yeah, but sort of depends upon temp and what meter you use as well. The real test is sag during crank. You really can beat the microcontroller battery testers for home gaming stuff. This one at amazon is like $12 (on sale now) and does voltage, sag voltage, CCA tests and waveform changing tests fairly well.
Someone deleted your post (or you did?) that was a response to mine.
Anyways, here's my response to you:
I'd just polish them with a polish pad (like these: https://www.amazon.com/FPPO-Abrasive-Polishing-scouring-Deburring/dp/B07RX9T1Z5/ref=sr_1_46?crid=2HVDJ09JZICLZ&keywords=abrasive+polish+pads+for+drill&qid=1657072633&sprefix=abrasive+polish+pads+for+drill%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-46 )
And throw them in then. Make sure everything is squeaky clean and that you put assembly lube on all of it.
Also... here's the entire front cylinder head/camshaft/follower/etc setup for $189: https://www.ebay.com/itm/225004848128?hash=item3463558400:g:eiIAAOSwxHJikDTk&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABANKbb%2FsdO4LGaLu2cKmE7FJin0PPaLpHUb5PRhyUSUYoZG2arteOogAygz46qaF6svXJ5IwgVOa5uMQ%2FCbFcaoMDkbp43n4m6XXVR6aagD2cfLlCAizAsJjL9wvtM7L%2FqSRxUF5ncHv...
Been there done that. Those installers suck! I'd try an extractor like this.
If you do end up having to remove the balancer, I'd recommend finding some all thread, a thick washer (3/8" steel plate), and a nut. Then when you're done installing you can just use vicegrips to pull the all thread out. Or weld a nut to the end of it if you use it often enough.
I actually bought a set for $380 on Amazon. Don't buy from them. The decks aren't flat. There is a review from a guy with the same problem and I saw a YouTube video where the guy had the same issue. They must have bought the rejects and are selling them as good.
I use splashzone epoxy for all my fill work on intake manifolds and heads. Pretty much anywhere except the exhaust runner itself honestly.
The stuff works great just be sure that when you go to sand it you wear a respirator. Not a dust mask and actual respirator. It's got silica in it and can really fuck you up if you breathe in the dust
Here's a link
No
you need a socket that fits over the ENTIRE crank snout and key way.
similar to this but for hondas
the outer circle screws off and hold the degree wheel too.
No
you need a socket that fits over the ENTIRE crank snout and key way.
similar to this but for hondas
So your saying i would need one of these?
ABN Harmonic Damper Crankshaft Crank Pulley 50mm Socket – Wrench Holding Tool for Honda & Acura Remover & Installer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P5BCRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZZH9J8FMFEMQ3T0PEQWS
If you do indeed already have the shorter plug, these work. Or you can wrap the header with a bit of header wrap.
This here is the bees knees for bell housing bolts. You put it on your half inch impact and whatever 3/8 drive wobble socket you need on the other end. It's worth it's weight in gold. Don't get a cheap one because they flex and you loose all your power on the impact. This one is as good as Snap-On, Mac, Matco etc for much less.
SK Tools Model SKT-46175 Long Impact Extension/Adapter 1/2" F-3/8"M 36" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SNGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DZ4NP1SE4APAG376YG2N
Runs great for a bit after repairs to the HPOP system, then runs like shit…wonder if debris got stuck in the IPR, holding it open?
This cable, a copy of Forscan (the free license will work fine for this) and basically any windows laptop is all the scan tool you need. Should show every PID you need in real-time.
https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Technology-Systems-Approach-5th/dp/1428311491
This is a remarkable text on modern vehicles. You can pick it up online used for a good price, as it's frequently a textbook in automotive programs.
Yes absolutely! Galvanic corrosion is more an issue if you get a liquid with an electrolyte into the threads, which can happen many ways including just the water in a humid atmosphere, but I was safe about it and used a high quality non metalic anti-seize: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-299175-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Temperature/dp/B00B74AB5C/ref=asc\_df\_B00B74AB5C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193125410072&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3152281800761904488&hvpone=&hvptwo=&...
I'm not sure its available in the cheese-whiz can but it is in the tube. I hate tubes, in general, but the cans always go bad/seals up before I can use all the product.
Surprise! I installed an mls gasket.. it's a 4.7L Jeep engine. Worked just fine ;) Cylinder Head Gasket compatible with JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 99-09 / RAM 1500 02-10 8 Cyl 4.7L eng. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077ZRC4J4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PPY341Z1PWS9W5EF9PXN
There are some cheap 2100s on Amazon for like $90. Might be a little small for a 351c, but the low-rpm throttle response and fuel mileage will be great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077HQP51S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_NF58FbG0BN1HW
Tons of rebuilt Autolite/Motorcraft 2100s on ebay. You probably want a 1.21 venturi, which is 350 cfm.
If you want to spend money for a new new option, there's a Holley 350cfm 2bbl available. They make a 500cfm which would work too, but you'd only appreciate it above 3500rpm and you'll get way worse mileage.
As a reminder, 4 barrels spend most of their time running on small 2 barrel primaries. They only pull from the secondaries and realize the full cfm available in response to pedal and demand. A big 2 barrel is the worst of both worlds: worse throttle response, worse mileage and still caps at a lower CFM anyway.
If you value money over time, look into it he Holley 2bbl efi setup. It'll take a little more to set up, but will run better than any carb. Runs just under a grand, though.
Holley carbs are very efficient at maintaining a safe air/fuel ratio. If you can find your carb number on this chart, and use the jets listed you would be good for a simple break in. If you're nervous, an afr gauge is cheap insurance (and makes tuning super simple). You can't have any exhaust leaks pre-o2 sensor, or it will read incorrectly.
You could try a locking extension. I've had to do the same thing before. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00295A-Extension-Removing-Sparkplugs/dp/B001JGTFAA I think harbor freight even has some
I've got sockets stuck like that and used a slide hammer hook through the drive hole. Of course this works best with 1/2 drive. It all depends on the socket though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I16P00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_-HaSFbZ1B24KW
Another thing you can do is find a tap that will bite into the drive hole on the socket. Epoxy an 8 pt socket to the tap (you can't weld to a tap) and weld a bolt to the socket that is long enough to grab with a vise grips
Much better video than the last one. Definitely not normal.
Since you just did cam phasers, I would say piston to valve clearance issue. Possibly hearing the pistons slapping the valves. I know you said previously that the cams were supposed to be okay, but could be possible that they weren't timed correctly, or the seller was wrong, maybe the different year motors have different piston styles, dished vs flat tops, or different sized valve reliefs, or no valve reliefs.
I highly suggest doing a leak down test. Many different leak down testers available for cheap on amazon. Just need a air compressor, doesn't need to be a big one. With the piston at TDC and both valves close, you're just listening for air coming out of the exhaust or intake. Technically can do this with your compression tester piece that goes into the spark plug hole, and then adapt the end of that to a nipple to connect to your air hose, complicated to explain, probably just buy the tester. Tester This should have been noticeable on the compression test, but not always depending on how bent they are. You might be able to rent this tool from an auto parts store also.
I also suggest getting a borescope/endoscope, many that just connect to your cellphone, and look through the spark plug hole to see any marks on the pistons from the valves. This one has some pretty good reviews with pictures.
I've found our Haynes manual to be really helpful. I think we got ours at the auto parts store.
I'm wondering if I should be upgrading my bore dial gauge... It seems like I should really be shooting for a .0001" accuracy gauge.
What do you (or others) think about this one?
No sweat man, keep it up!
For audio, I have a Zoom H4N recorder that I got used for $100. It does a surprisingly good job for how inexpensive it is. You can also plug nice mics into it if you can find a deal on a shotgun mic. A cheaper/easier option is Rode's DSLR mic that goes in the hot shoe port. Better sound is going to make your videos much better. Anywhere that you don't get great sound, cut to B-roll and do voiceover in a quiet room at home.
Good luck!