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If you disconnect the equipment, you need to make sure that you avoid touching the end of the fiber as oils, dirt and microscopic dust may hamper the performance of the fiber.
Depending on what setup you may have, you can consider getting a coupler with dust cap for SC/APC that you can snap on or snap in some extra protection while the work gets done.
Similar to this
https://www.amazon.com/Cerrxian-Singlemode-Adapter-Internet-Connector/dp/B075FPJFD3/
I’ve tried lots of plugging and unplugging and I’ve done a few swipes on this every time:
Fiber Optic Connector Cleaner,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z2WH785
And a few clicks with this in the socket
TUTOOLS Fiber Optic Cleaner,Fiber... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZK8H72Z
Should I be doing more to clean?
It's this piece : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fujikura-Cleaver-Accessories-Plastic-Adjust/dp/B087N397G9
They've replaced the screw that holds the blade in place with this contraption.
Essentially, a screw inside a plastic housing that has the blade position and a metal leaf spring washer thing.
Oddly, if you try to screw down the blade with a screw & washer only, the blade can't be rotated manually or by the motor.
If memory serves me correct, the screw goes on a fixed post and the blade /dial rotate around this post /screw, and it's the pressure washer thing that keeps the blade flat (you'll see you can wobble the blade a bit)
Screw is kept in by 3 tiny plastic tabs that snap easily on its own.
Happened on mine and had it done under warranty. Happened on my old boss' and was charged £150 or so for this tiny piece of shit as out of warranty (of course, because you have to send it to fuji and they no doubt do a 'service').
I have no interest in supporting fuji and tell everyone to go sumo or Inno.
Go buy the sumo cleaver IMHO not the ct30. There's a little level you can set on the back on the sumo - 1. Fixed blade, 2. Rotate blade 1 position and back to fixed position (after cleave) , 3. Rotate blade after every single cleave.
Only annoyance is the sharps bin isn't removable
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000FFRXEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_KTSWEbZNPPF2K
Pick up one of these guys (that price is out to lunch, I paid $18 off Amazon for mine). Keep steel rod of sleeve up and push down once cooled. Shouldn't have any issues.
That ONT is also a Router,
https://www.amazon.in/Technomart-DBC-Technologies-EPON-Port/dp/B083563QW5
A Slow and Overheating one though.
i'm not an expert but i am a networking guy and this pcie card should work with anything, as it runs on ethernet protocol, and from what i read real quick they all do. i would post this question in /r/homenetworking or /r/homelab to make sure. if it's pcie and fits in your computer you should be good, but i heard they run hot so be aware of that and prepare for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Jeirdus-100feet-Outdoor-Singlemode-30Meters/dp/B07VWVL8ZL
Fiber.
https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Converter-SFP-Transceiver-Included/dp/B09F95D1SL/
Media converters.
That’s it. You’re done.
No, the smallest you'll get would be a 'handheld style' OTDR with built in VFL, rather than a tablet style. e.g.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/YEDEMC-Mini-Pro-Mulit-Function-5m-60Km-Dynamic/dp/B07Z1XCRBF
​
these style tents have enough room in them to build taps, and they're light enough to fold up and transport anywhere...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4KWOI1/ would get you 1g over single strand of single mode, they come as a pair in a pack. You just need to somehow get your fiber to have an UPC LC connector at each end. Most drop cables I see have one weatherized APC SC connector on them for pole side and other side is field terminated by install tech.
Ok you won’t be able to terminate like you think. It’s not like crimping on a RJ45. These connectors first off are for Single Mode with a UPC polish.
You need multimode connectors.
Secondly this type of connector is crimped on and then hand polished with a polishing kit. Can take 30-45min per connector. It’s an old way of terminating and takes a lot of skill an patience. The industry has moved away from this as it’s too difficult to master and takes too long.
Normally installers will splice on a pre-terminated connector with a splice machine as it’s much faster and less likely to have issues.
Your other option is to purchase what is called a fast connector. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Matched-Mechanical-Adapter-Multimode/dp/B09CYQCGD9/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=IB2VW8DDXQRK&keywords=lc+multimode+fast+connector&qid=1661108044&sprefix=lc+multimode+fast+connector%2Caps%2C610&sr=8-3
You will also need. Strippers A Cleaver Isopropyl cleaning liquid Fiber optic Cleaning wipes
Hello, thanks for the reply. Here's what I bought: link. The description says the material is "PMMA", not sure if its "skinned" or not? If it helps, the runs are all less than 2ft
I'm in US, not the UK. I don't know who "owns" the pipe but we're using it, so possession is 9/10s of the law.
There's nothing but the pipe, the ISP's cable, and my incumbent ethernet.
>fiber has really good tensile strength
That's great to hear (read).
​
>You're replacing the copper line with fiber ? Is that even possible ?
Uhhhh, I bought a 60m OS2 cable, 2 SFP modules and a new switch with SFP ports for the outbuilding (our core switch has 4 SFP ports already).
no because plugging the ONT into your 1g WAN port will effectively bottleneck it. If it says 1g, then how would the router output more to the 2.5 LAN/WAN port?
Seems like an engineering flaw.
You could try using something like this to hook your computer up directly to the ONT if you download stuff at 2.5(ish).
Was this before the NID (AT&T side) or after the NID? If it was the segment after the NID then it is most likely a jumper you can replace.
​
Before the NID, and if there is slack, can give something like this a shot until the tech gets there:
​
https://www.amazon.com/LEITE-Connectors-Mechanical-Non-Melting-Connection/dp/B08TVHPT1Q/
Take that unicam garbage and dump it in a fire pit. That system is old and so difficult to work with.
Buy a cheap fiber toolkit with a cleaver and strippers
Buy fast connectors. https://www.amazon.com/Fiber-Connector-LEIHONG-Adapter-CATV-10PCS/dp/B08C4M6K62/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3N3CGKCAJV5S1&keywords=fast+fiber+connector&qid=1654982637&sprefix=fast+fiber+connector%2Caps%2C296&sr=8-4 If you buy the SC/UPC type they are far easier to work with than the LC/UPC and a 1/3rd of the price. If you need to go to LC/UPC use a midcoupler adapter and a patch cable that converts.
For testing you should always start with a VFL (visual fault locator). This will help visually see if signal will get to the other end or where you can identify a break.
Use power meter to identify if there are connections that are passing light with a VFL but are not connecting because the connection is not good enough to make a link. This will help identify where a problem might be in your link.
Use one of these OTDRs to help identify a distance point on where a break might be if needed. The ones you indicated normally have a VFL and a powe mete built in them as well. An OTDR is a bit overkill for what you need. But the ones you showed will do the job for the basic troubleshooting you will need for event video. Don’t buy an EXFO or something it’s way overkill for what you need
I used this for the SAME see Link <= worked like a Charm :) This is a short one I also did get the " 30 Meter version which came with an inter connector "
PacSatSales - Fiber Optic Patch Cable - Single Mode - SIMPLEX - OS1-9/125um (30M, SC/APC to SC/APC). Good luck.
if these are pcs - you can strip the coating and use a simple carbide pen scribe to introduce an inclusion on the side of the waveguide, and deflect it at the inclusion to "cleave" it... cheaply and far more effectively than the method you described.
https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Cleave-Cleaving-Pen-type-Carbide/dp/B01FJVWBL0
If it was me, I’d look for a more ruggedized fiber to pull, and try to find one that’s pre-connectorized. I would also use bidirectional optics so you would only need a single fiber. Like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N29SB25/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26F3VNT4FN9CSV6R4W7D
Single Mode LC Gigabit Fiber Media Converter - Includes LC SFP 20 km (12.42 Miles) LC – to UTP Cat5e Cat6 10/100/1000 RJ-45 – Auto Sensing Gigabit or Fast Ethernet Speed - Jumbo Frame - LLF Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CXRL34L/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_N4TKMN39M59DBTVS7T15?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You need 2 media converter's
You're going to need conduit to run the fiber in though.
Unless you want to shell out a lot more for direct bury fiber...
I have a couple of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0974V66PT
they are not something I would use for official certification, but you can do easy comparisons.
I use the vfl as a signal source and the OPM will read it. If you use them at both ends with a friend at the other end you could roll through the strands and compare them. All the strands should be within a few tenths of a db.
Yeah I asked them which would cost 75$ to make them do the work compared to like 30$ before shipping if I buy all 3 cables and the wall plate and everything. And that would be armored cable.
I just dont know if my ISP would just drill a hole in the wall. (probably).
And on fs.com the shipping cost for a order of 30$ would be 60$ unless I make a order over 105$ which I dont really need.
Im honnestly considering going with some wall plates with brush at this point and just get a full 20m optic cable.
I've been using fingerless gloves now for the last few years. I only cut the thumb and pointer off It's not perfect, they still reduce mobility. But it gives me a little more time to work before I have to thaw my hands out. If your going to be out in the cold for longer periods of time, I've found that a hand warmer on the back of the hand can make working in 20°F weather tolerable. I use them quite a bit splicing and I'll climb cell towers from time to time. That's my go to for working with small tools and hardware without fear of dropping things 300'.
We used to buy ours through graybar but I am also finding it on Amazon.
FTTH Outdoor Optical Fiber Drop Cable,G657A1,1 Core Single Mode,LSZH Black Jacket,1 Steel Wire+2 FRP Strength Member,1000 Meters/Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PPTFLR6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FANCGJ63QYKSNZQADG1Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This would be a single fiber but you should be able to find up to 12 fibers in this form factor. I also like having a tracer to locate the buried line later for locates.
PacSatSales - Fiber Optic Patch Cable - Single Mode - SIMPLEX - OS1-9/125um (1M, SC/APC to SC/APC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIV0PIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_NQB8YCR4XXY5EDJ6XYQ5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The TP-Link converter I have will show an LED if it's connected to the other converter and both fiber strands are connected properly. Otherwise, it won't show an LED at all. (Other than power or to verify an ethernet connection).
I had tested all the cables originally - and just forgot for that last stage of replacing the ethernet cable. The connectors I'm using work fine from the original cable to the other original, but, yes, that could be a problem and it might not work with the newer cable.
Is this a good example of BiDi optics? And am I right that, since it's using two different colors, that it won't impact bandwidth at all? Just give me TX and RX on the same strand? I also found this searching for WDM optics. (I'm not restricting myself to Amazon, as seen in the links, but just doing a quick search for examples - and stuff I can get shipped quickly.)
I looked into a lot of options in the past, even reading about people who started their own ISP by using radio links. I did consider trying to share a connection with someone, which would have to be through a radio link, but there were a number of issues there, including the cable company not allowing shared connections.
Here's the kit I bought from Amazon. I'm guessing, after Googling FTTH, that it's more coincidence you and the toolkit use the term? Is the pen in it what you're talking about? Up until now, I've just checked if the strands were intact by plugging them into my TP-Link converters to see if they worked, but I've also double-checked with the light pen. (Testing with the converters has made me learn to check and make sure what's RX on one end is TX on the other end.)
Part of my concern is we live in a rural area. While the cable company serves some houses on this road, we're in a 1 mile stretch where they refuse to provide service. When we moved out here, we had to use Viasat satellite internet, which is absolutely pathetic. After 2 years of that, when the contract ran out, I upgraded to internet through a cell provider. That's better, but it's still got problems. I streamed the Tour de France in July and during that time and for 3 weeks after, our service was really slow! (We could stream, but that was about it. If I tried downloading a Linux distro image, it'd take hours or even all night.) I used to have fiber internet and it made life so much easier!
I've made my deposit for Starlink and I'm waiting for them to start providing service in our area. This whole project was to get power and fiber to a post out in our front field that has the unblocked view of the sky that Starlink dishes need. It'd be a shame to go through all this and end up with something like a bad connection degrading our service!
Thank you for your responses - I feel much better now and not nearly as nervous about reterminating the two strands that lost their connectors!
Great naming convention indeed!
The $1000 kits mentioned were for fusion splicers, we use cheap Chinese $800 kits which are hard to beat. You need a stripper, cleaver, and medical wipes with 99% alcohol. Again, you're kind of winging it, but with your type of setup absolute perfection isn't required. One other thing is the kit you buy doesn't have a signal meter you may want one of these:
It's a cheap tool that takes a lot of guess work out of it.
The connectors in your pictures are SC UPC so you'll want some of those, or rather match the shape/color of the port they'll be plugging into. The process is the same regardless.
I’m connecting a MikroTik 5-Port (CRS305-1G-4S+IN) with a MikroTik CSS610-8G-2S+in using these:
10GBase-LR SFP+ Transceiver, 10G... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UMS905G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Over a duplex single mode run.
Not that I have seen. The Coax is only for TV and not EoC (Ethernet over Copper).
If you have unused Coax there are ways to use it. Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088KV2YYL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_PT8XSTSFKEA70V400XE1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It would be wired something like... Fiber -- ONT - cat6 - MoCA - coax to other side of house - MoCA - cat6 - Network Switch - NAS, Computer, Etc.
They make snap in attenuators that we use for when the SM length thru the building is less than 200m. But we also only use lower power 1310nm optics for those runs too so eh.
You could get a cable vault and splice it, or just put it in there and tape it and leave it for later in case it needs to be monitored or repaired
There really isn't a "fixing it" with fiber unless it's in pipe and you can pull slack. You'd have to either pull slack from wherever it's going to the house and resplice the house or you would need to pull slack from the house and burry an enclosure. As far as compounds go, if you wanted to get crazy you could get a gel splice telephone drop repair and pull out the telephone gear. This is all assuming that the drop is about the same size I'm thinking. https://www.amazon.com/Phone-Splice-Kit-Pair-Black/dp/B00C73FLSO If it does break DM me and we'll come up with a plan. I work in southern Indiana and may be able to swing out there and splice it.
I was looking at this kit for spicing only 130$ https://www.amazon.ca/Connection-Cleaver-Locator-Optical-Stripping/dp/B01GN34HLK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=fiber+optic+splice+kit&qid=1603314953&sr=8-6
If I bought pre-made connectors how would I pull the fiber through a 200' pipe? Because I thought you had to pull from the Kevlar? I have seen the socks for pulling cable with connectors but I thought you weren't supposed to pull cable like that.
Probably thinking of a Seam Ripper.
This is my preferred one. https://www.amazon.com/SINGER-47325-Comfort-Ripper-White/dp/B07KRWMSGY/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=seam+ripper&qid=1597078040&sr=8-5
If you want to get it up temporarily and assuming the outside connection is APC you can buy a jumper and run one.
Here's a 50ft SC APC on amazon prime for $30
Check this out at Amazon.com SC/APC to SC/APC Fiber Patch Cable Singlemode APC Duplex - 15m (49ft) - 9/125 OS1 - Beyondtech PureOptics Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5GBGU6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_PxZKEb07GZ0WT
Thanks for the help!
Here is the one I'm looking at on Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Wholesale-Indoor-Outdoor-Singlemode/dp/B00BKT44UW/
Doesn't look like it has connectors already installed. But -- I'm guessing it won't be too tuff? Like just a matter of knowing/learning how to do it? I'm not too savvy with networking, but when I was in College I was forced to take a networking class for the first semester. I sort of remember we were doing some hands on stuff with Fiber (or maybe it was ethernet I forget). But either way I'm sure I could figure it out with some Youtube videos :P
Yeah.. that's a good point though about the 2KM cables :P I never really seen any (or atleast the were decently priced) when I first looked, but I'll have another look though.
Do you know if it matters for how many Fibers it has? Like this one shows it has 2 fibers. But do I need more? Or can I use less? Like if it would matter if I found a cheaper 2KM cable that only has 1 Fiber?
The casing looks pretty durable I think. Hopefully will resist the rain/snow/cold here in Canada :P
Thanks again!